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angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

wandler20 posted:

Same. I also have the chainsaw and blower and they go on for quite a long time. The 20v stuff with brushless tools also last a very long time and have great power.

Did you cross shop their 40v stuff as well? I'm in the market for a battery powered string trimmer and hedge clipper, and the variety of what they have on the market is confounding. I found one comment somewhere that the 40v stuff was marketed to "professionals" where the 20v was bottom tier homeowner, 60v upper tier.

I'm already invested in DeWalt 20v tools, so the 20/60v equipment seems like an obvious choice, but I'm kinda tough on yard tools and want a quality string trimmer that pays string easily....OTOH the price goes up sharply. I'm tempted to get the cheap 20v stuff and put a better head on it.

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angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Hubis posted:

IMO if you're looking at more than a simple blower/trimmer for light duty, I'd look at the 56v Ego line instead of the souped up 20v/2x20v offerings from DeWalt, etc.
Yes it's another battery format, but honestly if you're getting a few tools it isn't that big of a deal and I've been generally really happy with the quality/performance I've gotten so far (String Trimmer, Blower, Mower, Power Head w/ Blade Edger).

e: The 56v 15" Ego Standalone Trimmer is the same price as the 20v 13" DeWalt ($179) on Home Depot's website. The Ego Power Head combo (powered shaft with Blade Edger and String Trimmer heads a}}})lnd 5.0 Ah 56v Battery) is $399.

I appreciate the reply, that would have been a decent option since I was considering a different battery format anyway, but I found a factory reconditioned 20v string trimmer and hedge clipper for $99 each from my CPOoutlets.com.

I already have a knockoff 5ah battery that works well with the 20v blower I have, probably pick up another of those.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

stealie72 posted:

Yeah, don't take that tree on as a weekend warrior. But don't think that you've got a 50/50 chance of dying taking down a foot diameter tree in the backyard either. Maybe should have added "If you doubt your ability to safely take the tree down, dont try."

The thing is, the feller in that video did not realize the hazard of that tree because it was hidden. We are definitely not talking about 12" trees here. Not sure what your point is?

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Blistex posted:

Chainsaw operation should only be undertaken by people with a somewhat nebulous sense of confidence in their abilities.

Check and check

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

It's definitely warehoused somewhere in the states. :fsmug:

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Buying a premade WOODworking bench from harbor freight you say?

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

If you want to get mad and accuse me of bootstrapping that's fine - I'm sorry you can't see the irony and humor in the situation.

And to be helpful, sometimes I have to build stuff in the woods for farm reasons, and have found this plate vise to be very useful for that purpose. It would be a handy addition to an incomplete HF woodworking table.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Target Practice posted:


Is there a goon consensus on DeWalt, Milwaukee, or some other brand for cordless tools? I know that for the big stuff (table saw, bandsaw, stuff like that), I'm going to do it right and buy good stuff (probably Jet, idk).

I'm just tired of having HF-level tools.

There is no consensus, and everyone here is biased too :v: . There are some that like Ryobi for being "good enough" and the cheapest with a huge selection but if you're looking for something better than HF quality I'd avoid them.

I like DeWalt cause I don't want to pay for Makita. Some here are big fans of Milwaukee, I personally find their drills to be unweildy or not balanced or... Something. Good product though, and I do have their 12v line for my service truck which has been very handy.

Go to a box store that has them out for display and check them out, see how they feel and what's on sale?

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Bondematt posted:

I was always told the color scheme was to prevent theft.

The brand name does a pretty fair job on its own

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

I run trufuel in my work chainsaw and don't even bother starting it on the ground. I can drop start it in the air, usually in one pull if I can get to the choke before it dies.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Son of Sam-I-Am posted:

I'm looking for recommendations for a zero turn lawn mower. We have an old 42" Craftsman that was fine for a little over an acre, but we moved to 3 acres and it takes at least 3-4 hours now to mow.

Been looking at the 54" range, and would like to keep it under $3,000 if we can. My grandpa and dad are brand loyal to Cub Cadet so I was leaning toward the RZTL54FAB, but there's also a Husqvarna Z254 in a local store that looks good.

Long and short of it though is that I don't have a great grasp of why I would prefer one over the other, or e.g. a John Deere or whatever, aside from price.

Also when's a good time in the spring to wait for sales? Memorial Day maybe?

Tractor supply sent me a 10% off a single item coupon about this time year before last, which I burned on a $5k bad boy mower. .... They have not sent me a coupon since, but I hear other people get them. :v: Lowe's occasionally does straight 10% coupons in the spring, but usually they're of the "save $50 off $250" variety. Spring is when everyone is buying a mower so I don't know if they have much reason to further incentivize mower sales in particular.

As an aside, if you can stretch your budget (or go used) to get something with a better deck than those two you posted, it would be worth it I think. I bought a Husqvarna before my current mower of the same residential line you're looking at. The frame/kohler engine/hydros were all fine over 5 seasons but the deck was real easy to beat up. Find a tree root at speed and you'll find yourself spending some quality time with a 3lb hammer to get finished cutting. I think they run a little extra front lip reinforcement on the Husqvarna residential models now, so probably a little better but there's no way it's the same as a thick fabricated deck.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Also, coming from a 42" tractor to any size zero turn is going to save a ton of time. You don't realize how much time you waste on a tractor on corners, where a zero turn can just whip around or just go back and forth. Point being, you could do with less than a 54" and still cut way faster than currently.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

TFW you get injured making an improvised safety device

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Mr. Mambold posted:

Ethanol is a real dumb idea that was supposed to be a good idea environmentally, then ironically turned into a horrible idea environmentally, but now it's entrenched politics. Even though pure gas is more at the pump, mileage tests have shown it's 20-25% more better mileage than ethanol blends.

..... More better? :D

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Can confirm, the kobalt line of compressors is quality. I bought the bitty 3 gallon hot dog version for light duty and it by far out-performed the 5 gallon pancake PC that it replaced.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

I like DeWalt cause I've just always been happy with the performance for the price, and the drills are just more comfortable to use than the Milwaukee 18v IMO.

I like my Milwaukee 12v stuff though - very capable for the size.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

I freaking love my cordless tools, anyone who disagrees has not been saved by our Lord and Savior, Lithium Ion.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Uhhh the DeWalt 20v stuff came out in 2011 and they have adapters to run the previous 18v stuff from new li-ion batteries if that matters.

But red is also good. They seem to be the favorites here if you don't want to go budget green.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Motronic posted:

FYI, those adapter suck rear end. They either fail, fail in a way that takes out the battery, or just "work normally" which means draining any 20v battery you leave on the tool to the point that the charger wont' charge it anymore. Which is distinct from the second scenario if you jump some wire between the pos and neg of the "bad" battery to a good one just to get enough charge back in it that the charger will do the rest of the job.

TL;DR: it's poo poo. But it's the poo poo system I'm embedded in.

Ah, I didn't know that. When I swapped to 20v I just sold the couple 18v drills I had. I believe it though, found out the hard way how the leaf blower will destroy a battery if you leave it in. I think the hold capability on the trigger doesn't turn quite all the way off, even though the motor isn't getting enough voltage to spin.

Also, this week I sold my chainsaw (which was my last 2 stroke tool) and got a DeWalt 16" flexvolt saw. Holy crap the 9ah battery is big. Reviews call it pretty solid, if it's half as capable as they claim it will serve me just fine. The chain brake (which also turns power off to the motor) has a very solid and uh, satisfying action which is an odd thing to say about a chainsaw.

Also re: circ saw chat - I have an ancient Makita (it's RED) one that was left on the outside of a dumpster like the owner wanted rid of it but hated to throw it away. I've put two blades on it, and it's still going strong, despite the OSHA violation original cord I'll fix it next time I swear.

angryrobots fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Apr 8, 2020

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Mr. Mambold posted:

Mods rename this goon One Thing to Rule Them All.

Thank.

Tools: One straightedge to rule them all

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

DrBouvenstein posted:

I assume that pretty much any corded reciprocating saw (other than maybe the cheapest HF version,) is going to be equal, and I should just get whatever one I can find a decent deal on?

I don't need it compact, or sub-compact, and cordless is entirely unnecessary. Immediate uses are for demoing a couple "walls" in my bathroom to remove the half-assed closet and try to open the room up, and remove a basketball hoop in my backyard that is preventing me from driving my truck through my garage.

I would suggest getting a name brand one, that has the dual position blade quick-attach (I would think they all have this now). Some pruning blades make it a very efficient limb lopper as well.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Are there hole saws with vastly larger depths of cut?

Yeah. But I think what cakesmith meant was to just take out enough material where he can get on the head of the sunken bolt. I think a regular bit going round the edge of the lag bolt head would also do this, while removing less material.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

tater_salad posted:

for tactical leveling?

So you can paint the target.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

~Coxy posted:

Ryobi is one of the only brands that actually warrants their batteries.
(That being said, I'm a huge idiot who went into Hitachi.)

I had a DeWalt li-ion completely quit after 1.5 years, called their warranty number and they mailed me a new one. No inspection, no receipt, and told me to take the old one to a recycler.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

On those electric pressure washers, you have to purge the poo poo out of them to get all the air pockets out. My usual process is to just hook the water to it with the wand not even installed and let it run for ~5 minutes or so.

Any air bubble will cause the motor to kick out to save itself.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Sorry - water only with no wand, then install the wand and let the water run through it, then last turn the power on.

Edit - the idea is to purge it with your house water pressure and get all the bubbles out of the unit and water hose. Actually I'll also run water though the hose before hooking it to the unit.

This sounds a lot more complicated than it is in practice, I promise. :P

angryrobots fucked around with this message at 18:49 on May 23, 2020

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Crotch Fruit posted:


As for purging the unit, I believe the manual only said to connect the hose and let it the hose run for 10 seconds prior to use, I didn't count but I'm sure I had it connected with the hose on for more than 10 seconds. Did you mean I should run the pump motor without an attachment at first? I can connect the hose, run the water, and even turn the power button on but the pump motor won't start until I pull the trigger on the attachment.

Also, it ran great for about 5 minutes before it started having problems, does that still sound like it could have been an air bubble in the machine? I will give keep trying a couple more times since it will be a few days before I want to go back to Home Depot if an exchange is necessary.

I don't think it's advisable to run the pump motor without wand attached. All of my air purging suggestions were intended to use your home water pressure only, prior to running the washer pump.

I could see the washer unit only needing 10 seconds of flow to purge it, but getting all the air out of your water hose takes a while, and every bubble that comes out had to work it's way though the washer unit as well.

Yes as the above poster mentioned, I have seen issues pop up after 5 minutes of normal operation.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

drat! That's an awesome score!

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

That's a very good deal, drat.

I use my battery blower all the time to get grass clippings off concrete and clean out my shop, but yeah it's not gonna match a real leaf blower if you need to sweep and pile lots of leaves in the fall.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Yeah be careful or you'll end up with a chafing dish

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Verman posted:

Let's talk chainsaws. I've been looking for a saw for firewood while camping, clearing trails when off roading and dirt biking etc. I don't need a pro saw or anything and would prefer it to be gas powered.

I've been looking at Stihl and Husqvarna, because they're what my folks always had and I'm familiar with in terms of reliability. Probably something around a 16-20" bar.

Obviously new are easy to find but I'm also looking at used and see if are there any specific models to look for that seem to be reliable/easy to find parts and just work. Like I said, I don't need the "V8 turbo charged super duty" saw but maybe like a "Toyota Tacoma" of chainsaws.

Both of your preferred brands are fine saws, and both come in homeowner and professional versions. Generally speaking, I think stihl is a bit upmarket and more expensive. Either way, I would suggest finding a local dealer and avoiding the box stores. Many people say the box store versions (of the Husqvarna models at least) are inferior or at least different. I can say from personal experience that I bought a 16" Husqvarna from Lowe's, and finding a replacement chain was a pain as after a few years Lowe's didn't have it and the dealer acted like it was an oddball (but did find it).

We use Husqvarna Rancher 455s at work and it's a trooper of a saw. Big and heavy though, especially when you're carrying it a quarter mile into a swamp and back out again. If I were you I'd find a dealer so you can size them up in person, even if you are looking used.

I can also say that battery saws have come a long way and may be worth cross shopping. I imagine that not having to carry mixed gas when camping/riding would be good. Also some systems use batteries that can be used in a variety of tools or lights.

angryrobots fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Jul 15, 2020

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Motronic posted:

As someone locked into the DeWalt ecosystem, this is the real lock in people need to be aware of. They're using the razor blade model: give the tools away for cheap, charge the poo poo out of you for the consumables.

The 20v batteries just LOVE to not charge when they get run down too far. The chargers simply won't recognize them. In almost every case where this has happened "jumping" them from a charged battery for a second or so has given them enough juice for the charger to start working but......I mean, come on that a load of bullshit.

True.

But the knock-offs are very good and far more affordable. IMO there's no reason to buy brand name batteries.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

B-Nasty posted:

That really hasn't been my experience. Project Farm did a test with Chineseium batteries recently (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjBiM0GQEe8) and I think the results were that you generally got what you paid for. There's definitely a premium you pay for the De/Mil/Mak batteries, but the cheap ones use lovely cells.

There's almost certainly an opportunity for a knock-off pack to be built with high-quality Samsung/LG cells and come in cheaper than the name brands, but the price difference with quality components wouldn't be worth taking a chance for most people. Thus, they optimize for cost and build lovely packs that won't last as long or perform as well.

From the video





I've been running knock-offs for several years and my anecdotal experience is that degradation has not been worse than my OEM batteries but obviously I don't have data to back that up. In my personal opinion the huge cost savings is absolutely worth it, and PF in the end of that video says pretty bluntly that the non-oem batteries can represent a better initial value. It does depend on your use case.

That being said, I did have a DeWalt battery fail under warranty, and they mailed me a new one, no questions asked.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005


I won't debate the insurance stuff but I have seen it recommended here that li-ion batteries should be stored/charged in a fireproof battery bag. That's probably worth mentioning here, outside of this discussion.

Edit:

I did some homework and believe this Is factually untrue:

sharkytm posted:

That means that if one catches fire and burns your house down, your insurance company gets to :lol: their way down the road while tossing you the bird.

If UL cert was that integral to insurers paying out on claims, many DIY projects here would be inadvisable. I only bring this part up because I've seen it repeated here a few times. If something is unsafe or could be done better, that's enough reason to advise against it, insurance scaremongering is unnecessary. That's no excuse to cut corners, mind.

angryrobots fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Jul 23, 2020

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Li-ion too, unfortunately. The goon in AI who had his garage burn down and almost take out the house said it was started by an 18v Ryobi. The adjuster implied that this was distressingly common, iirc.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Motronic posted:

I'm gonna have to pull the "former fire investigator checking in" here. By the count in my career you should be way more concerned with all of those lovely wall warts and chargers for your cheapass consumer electronics than known brand tool company batteries and chargers.

Tremek posted:

poo poo happened:






Also of note fellow BMW enthusiasts, one 1988 325 coupe, unique patina!



TLDR the fire investigator for our homeowners insurance believes one of my Ryobi lithium ion drill batteries erupted and started the fire. It’s a poo poo sandwich and will take forever to make right.

Tremek posted:

All were less than 2 years old, 18v li-ion, and I don't think any were on a charger at the time.

Tremek posted:

The fire investigator tried to put the fear in me; he said he sees more fires starting from batteries than anything else now.

He told me he doesn't leave the house with a battery on a charger, he sets a timer and removes the battery from the charger and unplugs the charger itself, he charges them on a non-flammable surface, and even recommended using a non-flammable battery bag for both charging and storage.

PS, as most of us don't have smoke detectors in our garages, might be cheap peace of mind to look into networked (as in will tell your detectors inside the house to alarm too) smoke/heat detectors. As you might guess, I did not have one in the garage, it's not code here. Even then my very new smoke detectors in the house didn't alarm until the fire department had already been fighting the fire for ~10 minutes. Very scary stuff, check your fire prevention/evacuation plans folks. I never thought this would happen to us.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

OSU_Matthew posted:

I’m assuming the 14 gallon is just taller, but the same footprint. FWIW, I get way more mileage out of my 5 gallon shop vac than the 16 gallon craftsman monstrosity. By the time I haul it around and futz with hose and poo poo I could’ve just grabbed the smaller unit, carried it over, and be done.

Agreed, and I think the smaller diameter hose on the smaller units is easier to deal with for most tasks, particularly cleaning out a vehicle.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

tater_salad posted:

why not just use an $8 1 gallon pump sprayer? sure pumping sucks but I use one to spray bug spray outside my house because gently caress paying 8 bux for the lovely wand that comes with home defense max.

And if that's not enough, I just got a Chapin backpack pump sprayer, it's practically no effort to keep it pumped up. It's a lot more budget friendly at $53, than the battery powered models.

It does have a lot more reach, and volume in the sprayer than a handheld bottle.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

I guess I'm in the minority here, but given the reality of stores being shut down in the immediate aftermath of a major storm and possible difficulty in travel, personally I'd rather have a gasoline genset (or dual fuel) if I didn't have a large propane tank or natgas supply. As OP stated, you can easily have a large store of gasoline that will give you a large time buffer before needing more.

And everyone will be buying both gas and propane, it's likely the corner store will get a fuel delivery before the propane truck comes back around.

tater_salad posted:

this..

My ex's family once tried to backfeed a house with a widowmaker dual ended extesion cord made from a harbor freight poo poo cord that I believe was rated for 5A. I dont think they turned off the main breaker either.

Don't be a dumbass, but I know stealie72 wont be one.

It's always surprising to me the crazy things people do, when there are multiple right ways, and "kinda janky but still safe-ish" methods that would be the same or little more work.

Much is made of backfeeding the power line for worker's safety, but frankly people don't give a poo poo about us when the power is out. I think it should be emphasized that backfeeding during an outage raises the possibility of damaging your generator or other electrical equipment. IMO the public may be more concerned about something that will cost them.

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angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Figured I'd share my experience with DeWalt's 3 year tool warranty. Second time dealing with them, first was a 20V battery that failed a while back, after about 1.5 years of use. Called, gave info off battery and told the CSR I had a receipt (I do, but they did not verify anything more than the serial off the pack). They sent me a new battery, and told me to recycle the old one.

Fast forward to the end of this September, my 20V string trimmer purchased in late 2018 quit with no warning. I set up a return through their website and printed a free UPS shipping label. They did take a card # but told me it wouldn't be charged without calling me first (in the case that the tool was not warranty eligible due to abuse or whatever, then it's $55 to repair).

I went ahead and bought a new string trimmer cause I figured it would take a while, and we're still mid-season here in The South. Last week I came home to a brand new string trimmer from DeWalt on my front porch. Not even two weeks turnaround, I shoulda held off on the new one.

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