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I'm looking for an air compressor for home use. I'll likely use it for oddjobs like blowing dust off of things, pumping up car/bike tires, and I could see my self using it for more serious things in the future like basic nailing (not full framing or anything) and maybe rotary tools like angle grinders. Right away I can't see myself using it for any continuous heavy duty work. It's gotta be electrically powered, and my garage is tiny so small size is a premium. Other than that I don't have any hard requirements although quieter is better. I'm also at the point in life where I'd rather pay more now for quality tools than have to replace them later, and a compressor is something that will be useful forever. Is $200 a reasonable starting point? Any particular models in mind? I'd like to buy something local (big box store, etc.) so I can use it this week but if the dream option is only available online I'm not opposed to mailing.
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# ¿ Jul 18, 2017 02:28 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 12:04 |
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B-Nasty posted:The California Air Tools 5510SE comes up a bunch, and for good reason. Most compressors are so loud that you need hearing protection to be in the same room. The CA one is so quiet you won't mind actually using it. I came across that in my own searching too, good to hear it is as advertised. Is there a big difference in the steel vs aluminum tank other than rust prevention?
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# ¿ Jul 18, 2017 03:32 |
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I've had Porter Cable 18v drill and impact driver for years now but the drill chuck mysteriously seized wide open today. I'll keep messing with the chuck to see if I can unstick it but in the meantime in thinking about replacing it. Is it worth upgrading to a newer 20v system? It's been so long since I've tool shopped that there's a bewildering array of battery system options out there. The impact driver and a couple other parts of the kit still work fine, so I'd have two mismatched systems. I'm a light-medium duty home user but have a standing policy to replace cheap tools with better ones when they break, so I'm not considering whatever lovely house brand Lowe's or Home Depot sell.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2018 05:26 |
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peepsalot posted:Unless your previous drill was an older chemistry like NiCad, then the difference between Li-ion 18V and Li-ion 20V comes down to marketing. I know about the 18=20v marketing nonsense, but my existing set is the old NiCad stuff so it won't be compatible with whatever I replace it with. I'm trying to puzzle out if any of the current tool lines seem dedicated to maintaining a battery standard before I commit to one. It sounds like it's a crapshoot right now given how fast battery tech is changing.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2018 18:42 |
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a high quality small bench grinder? I'm trying to find one for shaping and sharpening model making tools, but everything I've found looks like junk or is hilariously underpowered. If all else fails I might just get a standard size and make/buy special tables for it.
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2019 01:15 |
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The havoc it wreaks on carbs and fuel systems in general makes it not worth a drat considering its basically a political handout.
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2019 05:09 |
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:As a vintage bike aficionado I can confirm. Mind weren't that bad but were still pretty awful after a few months of sitting. I shouldn't have let it sit that long anyway but the ethanol gas made the problem so much worse. It also helped strip half of the tank coating off and clog every filter and line along the way. On the plus side I could remove and reinstall the carb assembly in like 30 minutes from shear volume of practice.
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2019 20:29 |
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Tagnik posted:Not sure where to post this so I'll ask here. If you have imagined up your own hand tool is there a company anyone had used or know of that can forge it for you? Do you have any formal drawings or anything yet? There are plenty of fabrication vendors out there if you've got design files. There are some that will generate the design files from your napkin sketch but they'll cost more.
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# ¿ Aug 26, 2019 18:20 |
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Speaking of earpro does anyone use those pass-through active blocking earmuffs for shop work? I'm thinking of the kind people use while shooting that pass through sounds below a set decibel. I've considered getting some for garage time but they don't seem like they'd be much different than passive earpro in that situation.
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# ¿ Nov 20, 2019 17:49 |
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Most riving knives I've seen and used were flush with the topmost point of the blade disc, so the issue with partial thickness cuts didn't happen. It looks like on yours the only thing that extra tan sticking up does is hold the blade guard like you said. I also use my saw as extra table space so it would drive me nuts to have a small tab of sheet metal sticking up all the time.
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# ¿ Dec 4, 2019 16:56 |
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At its core woodworking is just creative jig design.
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# ¿ Apr 11, 2020 19:55 |
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JEEVES420 posted:woodworking is spending 2 hours making a jig to do a 30 second cut. It's sorta like painting, all the tricky and tedious stuff is in the prep work. Get that part right and the "real work" goes quickly and accurately.
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# ¿ Apr 11, 2020 20:01 |
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Whatever system you decide on get both a drill and an impact driver. Impact drivers are magical compared to the driver function on a drill. Are you going to be doing much circular saw work? Those use much more power than other tools so if you don't really really need cordless I'd recommend a corded one.
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# ¿ May 8, 2020 21:57 |
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I would have expected all systems would have several drills and at least one impact driver. Do you think that's not the case? They definitely all have at least one impact driver option, I just wanted to make sure you didn't overlook it. I almost did when I got new tools a few years ago and it's been the most used tool I have.
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# ¿ May 8, 2020 23:59 |
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devmd01 posted:God dammit. At least the fan part is only $14 shipped, but how the hell did the blades decide to up and gain their freedom? Did that orange impeller come off the shaft?
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# ¿ May 14, 2020 04:14 |
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What for? Is a vacuum the right tool or are you into dust collector territory?
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# ¿ May 19, 2020 08:11 |
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Lhet posted:Thanks for the input. I was kinda thinking for future growth but it sounds like I don't have a need for a table saw yet, so I'll start with that miter saw and drill (maybe driver), and my dad has offered his excess small stuff, so that should cover squares/clamps/levels. I'm certain that I'll be cutting hardwood at some point, does that affect anything, or should I just go for a well reviewed miter saw and switch blades if needed? Definitely get the driver if you're getting a cordless drill. Impact drivers are like magic. 'Hardwoods' aren't necessarily harder than softwoods, it's a confusing naming convention. Most decent quality blades will give good results on all but the hardest wood as long as you don't abuse them (cut metal, glass composites, etc.) And agreed you can never have too many clamps.
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# ¿ May 30, 2020 01:20 |
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It's that HF sprayer appropriate for indoor use? I have a few rooms I want to paint and anything that speeds it up would be nice.
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2020 01:38 |
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Thanks for the painting advice everyone. Now I just gave to resist the temptation to go super cheap like I usually do.
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2020 20:24 |
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Getting a miter cut right is like plugging in a USB connector the right way up - it's always the third side you try.
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# ¿ Jun 25, 2020 18:32 |
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FogHelmut posted:Unless it's a huge box of screws or nails, my solution is to throw them out because I don't need to store random screws that are worth $0.03 each that I might use one time 10 years from now. I screamed a little bit reading this. I recently finally got around to getting a few of those Stanley organizers Motronic posted and it's been great. I don't tend to buy a ton of extra hardware but those odds and ends come in surprisingly often. Now I just need to figure out what to do with the racks of misc machine screws and fasteners at my mom's place. It's all aviation surplus from the 80's (dad was an engineer and couldn't pass up cheap hardware) so it's not super useful for home improvement projects. But still! Who knows when I might need a 4-40 x 4" screw for something?
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2020 19:25 |
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Any recommendations for a high quality hand saw? I'll be mostly using it for crosscuts on hardwood when I don't feel like using the powered miter saw. This might be more of a question for the woodworking thread so I'll post it there too.
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2020 23:41 |
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I've been meaning to get a deadblow for a long time, what's the best option if I only get one? I'll be using it for woodworking, around the house stuff, and some occasional car maintenance. Looking at the Trusty Cook site, Model 1 or Model 2 seem like the most appropriate for general purpose?
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# ¿ Aug 21, 2020 20:35 |
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Humbug posted:I have an old "Handy Wyteface" metric tape measure that has a square body that is exactly 5cm long. I find this super handy when measuring between walls and other obstructions. You put the back of the body agianst the wall and add 5cm to the measurement at the tape opening. I find its accurate enough down to milimetere precision. All of my inch tapes have 2" long bodies even if they're not marked as such. I also have a cheapo tape measure that's dual inch/mm that's marked as 62mm long, weirdly. This is the US, not sure what's standard these days in the UK or Canada where I'm guessing you are.
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2020 19:32 |
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You definitely want a hole saw our forstner bit for something that big. Are you boring through a sheet? Tube? Are you using a handheld drill or a press? A 2" spade bit might require too much torque for a handheld drill (or your hands) to handle.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2020 19:36 |
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Jaded Burnout posted:
Just make sure to use it right https://i.imgur.com/eL2Cx3l.mp4
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# ¿ Sep 20, 2020 22:06 |
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I. M. Gei posted:Best reusable respirator mask(s) for spraying lots of garden chemicals that are harmful if inhaled or if they get in your eyes? Preferably something that I can wear hearing protection with, and is also good for woodworking/painting/staining poo poo? Pony up for the full face version https://www.amazon.com/3M-Safety-14...s%2C206&sr=1-19 I've had one for a few years now and its amazing. Earmuffs fit over it easily so no concern there. I was slightly worried that the face mask would fog up but the mouth-nose piece is very well sealed so its not an issue. I use mine for dusty jobs, solvent jobs, cutting extremely juicy onions, and cleaning out the nasty spoiled stuff from my refrigerator. If you intend to do any spraying with I'd make sure to get a pile of the lens protectors as well. I only go through one every year or so of light duty woodworking but I'll bet it'd get fouled up in no time with sprays. Also if the filters you use are pink you look like a pretty princess storm trooper. edit: The only minor downside is that its a bit heavy so after a few hours of continuous use you'll start to feel it. oXDemosthenesXo fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Oct 4, 2020 |
# ¿ Oct 4, 2020 23:08 |
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The only thing I don't see mentioned that's essential for working on bikes is a good mallet. Bike mechanic buddy of mine said they only took bikes to the back room to work on them so that customers didn't see how hard they had to hammer on things sometimes.
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# ¿ Nov 2, 2020 02:49 |
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Looks like they make these in batches and aren't available right now, but a non dovetail version is one of their regular products. Do you find that you use all of the special making features pretty often? I really need to upgrade my edit: typo oXDemosthenesXo fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Nov 3, 2020 |
# ¿ Nov 3, 2020 20:47 |
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bobua posted:I ordered this thing like 6 months ago or something and it came last night, haven't had the chance to use it, so I can't speak definitively about how i will really use it, but my guess is that it will replace my double square in pretty much every situation and I'll absolutely love that bottom extendable tab. The rest I suspect will be nice but not a big deal. You must live in a super humid place, that takes weeks to months where I'm at. I understand the fear though, I left a drill press and bandsaw in a veeeery light rain for a few minutes once while moving and the years old spotless cast iron was coated in rust the next day. Those aluminum + stainless tools should work great for you. If you remember report back when you've had a chance to work with it a bit. No joke making tools to make things might be my favorite part of shop time. I think I enjoy it more than actually making the end products.
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# ¿ Nov 4, 2020 05:51 |
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One more screw suggestion because it's my favorite type of screw: Shoulder screw If you're threading straight into the wood it might not work great but if you're doing a through hole with a bit in the back side it'll be great. Shoulder screws get used as a pivot point all the time.
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# ¿ Nov 13, 2020 19:16 |
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Is a Yankee screwdriver an actually useful tool these days? I love old school tools but I'm not a masochist.
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# ¿ Nov 18, 2020 19:10 |
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Shopvacs are all pretty similar, just make sure to get good filters and inspect/ clean /replace them regularly. Other than that the biggest difference between the cheap and expensive ones seems to be how loud they are.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2020 19:28 |
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I got so sick of the loud shopvac that I built it into an insulated box. Plus a bonus junk connection surface. This is with the cover off obviously. Exhaust is out the bottom left that you can't see in this picture. The small panel on the bottom right covers the cyclone separator connection bin.
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# ¿ Nov 20, 2020 02:50 |
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Jenkl posted:Well thats going on the list of things I want but don't need. You say you don't need it but how would you like to be able to not wear earpro with it on, or have a normal volume conversation with it running? The only downside is a little less suction but that's due to the cyclone separator. That and its a little unwieldy to move the whole contraption around in my small shop. I can post the simple 3D model I made if you want.
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# ¿ Nov 20, 2020 07:26 |
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SpartanIvy posted:Also if you have a 3D printer you can find all kinds of vacuum hose adapters and such on thingiverse which helps you use it in more. You mean I don't have to use pvc fittings and duck tape?!
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# ¿ Nov 20, 2020 18:59 |
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Rutibex posted:PVC? sounds high tech. i prefer to drill a hole in a log I've bored out 4x4 scraps to make right angle adaptors but never an actual log. And sometimes I use masking tape as a shim instead of duck tape.
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# ¿ Nov 20, 2020 20:00 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Drill presses are like the neglected step-children of machinery design for some reason. Even as manufacturing has gotten basically better and cheaper, the design of drill presses seems to have peaked about 1940 and they have gotten actively less user-friendly ever since. Except for on/off switches. I recently got rid of a fairly new small press for a much larger and heavier duty old one, and the power switch is this tiny little rocker on one side of the main housing. The newer one had this paddle right on the front you could just slap to turn it off. Other than that it's an upgrade in every way once I got it cleaned up.
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2020 19:14 |
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n0tqu1tesane posted:I mean, it is fairly cheap to add a slap paddle on/off switch to any piece of equipment. Oh hell yeah, I'll have to check to see how much work it is to add one of these. fake edit: pretty easy it looks like oXDemosthenesXo fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Nov 26, 2020 |
# ¿ Nov 26, 2020 07:12 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 12:04 |
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JEEVES420 posted:If you don't want to wire one up yourself there are also completed boxes with outlets I might use one of those in line versions for other tools but the wiring on the drill press is super simple. The hardest part will be mounting it securely to the press housing. I might have to drill and tap the big casting to get it on there tight.
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# ¿ Nov 26, 2020 20:26 |