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If you take a saw primarily intended for woodcutting and put a metal cutting blade on it and then try to cut say, 1-1/2" round tubing with it, what's the worst that could happen? The blade's max rpm is 6,400. The saw spins at 5,000. Short of measuring that 10" of woodcutting blade is in fact the same diameter of 10" of metal cutting blade, what can go wrong with trying to precision mitre cut metal this way?
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Apr 9, 2016 05:38
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Thank you for the input. It wouldn't have occurred to me to clean out the sawdust but I'm certainly going to now. Are you cutting your wood saw blade in half with your metal saw blade?
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Apr 10, 2016 05:28
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Seafoam is fine for two-strokes, according to my still running mid 80's Johnson seahorse. Add it to the gas. Blow it into the carb. Suck it up the vacuum line. Screw out the plugs and put it directly onto the piston. Seafoam everywhere all the time forever. Always seafoam.
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May 14, 2016 01:46
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Put Seafoam in your hard disks to make them go faster.
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May 14, 2016 17:29
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Hogweed, Sumac, and Prickly Ash are assholes. https://www.theweathernetwork.com/news/articles/plant-that-can-cause-third-degree-burns-popping-up-in-canada/54604 quote:When combined with sunlight, sap from the plants can cause extreme skin irritation, temporary or permanent blindness and scarring. http://ontariotrees.com/main/species.php?id=2079 quote:poisonous to touch http://ontariotrees.com/main/species.php?id=2072 quote:thorns I am fortunate in that I have not found all three plants cohabitating in the same location. That may change when I shift from clearing shrubs on hills to clearing shrubs in valleys. I have a question. This is a chainsaw on a stick.  This is a chainsaw that grabs stuff.  This is a chainsaw on a stick that grabs stuff.  Is there a better search term for "chainsaw on a stick that grabs stuff" than "chainsaw on a stick that grabs stuff"? Alternatively, if you needed to cut down a lot of something and didn't want to let it touch you, what would you consider the best tool for the job?
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Sep 10, 2016 17:49
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These two. https://www.amazon.com/King-1000-Grit-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=pd_sim_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4NAHX1FYB8KT7DTVD7DW https://www.amazon.com/King-800-4000-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B000248XEY/ref=pd_sim_469_17?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NYF5WFDNXBR2QT76MCHA
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Oct 24, 2016 00:07
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Ethanol drama turned me off small engines. I have a 10-inch electric chainsaw. It's good for delimbing cedar and sitting idle for months without fuss. https://www.amazon.ca/LCS1020B-10-Inch-Lithium-Chainsaw-Baretool/dp/B00SSLE0QS I don't like its bar tensioning mechanism. It does not stay in position and it is difficult to tension correctly. Also it isn't the best at cutting down dead hardwoods. And it takes a .043" chain and nobody sells anything smaller than a .050". I'm thinking of upgrading. Erwin posted:Most people with opinions say that you should spring for the more recognizable/reliable brands and treat it as an investment that should last years with proper maintenance.  There are other chainsaws in this price range and 3 of them have normal-looking chain tensioners.  https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.58v-cordless-brushless-chainsaw.1000820914.html  http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/greenworks-80v-chainsaw-0545702p.html#srp  https://www.lowes.ca/chainsaws/kobalt-2000003c-80-volt-max-lithium-ion-18-in-cordless-electric-chainsaw_g2653903.html I like the look of the Echo one but I'm partial to things that are orange. Any tips/pointers?
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Mar 18, 2017 01:30
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Now that you mention it they are kind of similar looking.
DreadLlama fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Mar 18, 2017 |
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Mar 18, 2017 01:50
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Correct me if I'm wrong but it seems like that + Motronic's post Motronic posted:Buying something from a larger/more recognized company that keeps parts around for years (and doesn't change parts based on what direction the wind is blowing in China) is a good idea for something that should last you decades (because you're gonna need small parts, seals, carb bits and pieces). count as big marks against the green and blue chainsaws, yes?
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Mar 18, 2017 02:06
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According to wikipedia, Echo are Japanese and have been around since the 1960's (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamabiko_Corporation). But it looks like maybe they just put their name on the battery chainsaw and don't actually support it. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/echo-58-volt-cordless-chainsaw.277864/ quote:Available exclusively through Home Depot - NOT available, and not serviced through ECHO dealers. I failed to find the battery saw on their chainsaw website (http://www.echo.ca/Products/Chain-Saws).
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Mar 18, 2017 16:38
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Katosabi posted:We're an Echo dealer and the only battery powered item they have available (for us) is the string trimmer. If you look here: http://www.echo-usa.com/Products/Cordless-Products you'll see they have 2 lines of products, one for dealers and one for Home Depot. Thank you very much for this information. Unfortunately it steers me away from the echo. But with that said, LordOfThePants posted:I run 100LL in both chainsaws, it works great. You generally have to go to a small airstrip to buy it but otherwise it's well worth the hassle for chainsaws that start every time. This is not intended as a personal attack. But I would like to seriously know what the gently caress. You can buy a battery chainsaw that will sit for years at a time and only needs regular old electricity from the wall outlet to recharge. Why is going to an airport to get 100LL a better option?
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Mar 20, 2017 16:37
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This is my saw: https://www.amazon.ca/DECKER-BDCCS20B-20-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Circular/dp/B00FRMSMRE Prior to buying it I also used a 7 1/4" skillsaw from the 1960s. My opinion is that cordless is better than corded. The convenience of not having to manage an extension cord halfway through a long cut offsets any speed you might gain from a more powerful 120V motor. If you need to wait for next payday to get a cordless tool vs. a corded one, I suggest you do so. Before buying anything I suggest you visit the local big box store(s) and take note of the availability and price of replacement sawblades. In my experience 7 1/4" blades are common but 5 1/2" blades are not. I had to go back to using the old skillsaw for cutting masonry. PPE talk: I've been chainsawing a lot lately and my goggles keep fogging up. I clean them, but they fog up again and I take them off. https://www.amazon.ca/Uvex-S3970DF-Dura-streme-Hardcoat-Anti-Fog/dp/B003U9VE94/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1491154062&sr=1-2 https://www.amazon.ca/Safe-Eyes-Stainless-No-Fog-Goggles/dp/B005EORSGQ/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1491160429&sr=1-12 I like the look of the uvex goggles but on the other hand I can see where they're going with the stainless steel screen ones. I mean, they aren't going to fog. Any strong opinions either way?
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Apr 2, 2017 20:28
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Chainsaw chaps are a great way to breed complacency. When a saw bites into your clothing it tends to pull and twist the fabric around. For this reason you should wear chainsaw pants instead. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.32-inch-34-inch-pro-safety-pants-for-chainsaws.1000831157.html At very least, if you're going to wear chaps, get the kind that wrap around. Good: http://www.homedepot.com/p/ECHO-36-in-Full-Wrap-Chain-Saw-Chaps-99988801302/202042637 Bad: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.chainsaw-chaps-class-b.1000831154.html I think I'll go with the uvex. WW1 style body armor seems cool but not at the cost of peripheral vision. How's the flip up mechanism on the Husky? I got some no-name mask from TSC and the face shield does not snap into position, up or down. It just flops around like a useless pain in the rear end on my face.
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Apr 3, 2017 03:16
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Speaking of attaching wood to other wood; is it better to cut a mortise with a skinny little bit where you make multiple passes or with a big fat bit where you do as few passes as possible?
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Jul 17, 2017 07:15
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Hubis posted:Assuming your tenon is properly cut (and assuming it's not is kind of useless) using an accurately sized bit in a single pass will allow you to get a very tight fit. Doing multiple passes increases the number of places you can make measurement errors; a single pass means you just have to worry about placement accuracy (since width will be correct regardless). Thank you for the information. Can I get your opinion on this? https://www.amazon.ca/uxcell-Cutting-Double-Cleaning-Bottom/dp/B01IYJQ4S0/ref=pd_cp_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AW80P22HQB6CJPYZ1RVW  Is this suited for plunge cutting? If so, how many amps should I look for to cut pine? My current router is the Black & Decker Matrix drill attachment; I am thinking of upgrading.
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Jul 18, 2017 05:43
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Anyone heard of narex ( http://www.narextools.cz/en)? They seem to make a lot of chisels, but I can't tell from the internet if they make good chisels. The cheapest chisel I can find to suit my needs is made by them (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Narex-Mortice-chisel-Peel-chisel-Extra-long-/152420978056?var=&hash=item237cff8d88:m:me33oPnFLnNqu424trNV2uA), but it's $50. If I'm going to spend $50 on a chisel, it's got to be a good chisel.
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Jul 25, 2017 05:05
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Is that super soaker HDPE?
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Jul 25, 2017 19:46
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What sort of security situation are you envisioning where you've got to go through a metal detector but you're allowed a water gun?
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Jul 26, 2017 03:23
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The foreground beams need motices cut in them to accept tenons to-be cut in the background posts. This is my first timber frame. I've post-and-beamed before but this is new to me. 
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Jul 26, 2017 22:09
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ColdPie posted:Are you planning to chop the mortises by hand with a chisel? That seems like a son of a bitch. Anyway, to answer your question, Narex is a fine mid range chisel brand and $50 does not seem at all too expensive for a chisel of those dimensions. An auger will be used to rough out the holes and I can probably square up the top portion long axis' of the mortises with a skilsaw. The chisel's job will be to clean out the deeper portions of the mortises. To be honest I'd rather use power tools all the way, but a chisel is cheaper than a new router + upspiral bit, which still wouldn't cut a square hole. cakesmith handyman posted:I need a stud finder for wooden studs behind plasterboard/drywall. I've tried the magnet on a string and never have success, any recommendations? Pry loose your floor molding and drill a couple <3/32" holes in the wall. You'll know when you hit a stud. Draw a vertical line with a bubble level up from your hole. Put the floor molding back.
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Jul 27, 2017 01:55
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Is there anything special about router bits marketed "for CNC" that makes them unsuitable for use in a hand router?
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Aug 28, 2017 22:36
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Sweet. Thanks!
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Aug 29, 2017 01:45
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Circular saw question: I am eyeballing a hypoid saw for metal and cement cutting. I like the look of the makita 5377mg, but am concerned about the flammability of the magnesium alloy baseplate when it comes to cutting metal and having hot sparks fly around. Has anyone got one and used it for cutting metal? Can you attest as to whether or not it caught fire?
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Dec 13, 2017 08:33
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What's the logic behind using a lightweight alloy for the base plate anyways? Wouldn't you want something heavy to ensure your saw stays flush with the work? I usually push down on the saw to keep it square with the track while I'm cutting. Come to think of it, if I saw two saws for sale identical save for one said "tungsten" on it where the other one said "magnesium", I'd go for the heavy one.
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Dec 15, 2017 10:32
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Does anyone have strong opinions they'd like to share about laser levels?
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Feb 3, 2018 19:43
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What does $60 get me that $30 doesn't? https://www.lowes.ca/laser-levels/bosch-30-ft-laser-chalkline-cross-line-laser-level_g2751682.html https://www.ebay.ca/itm/ZH-SL202-La...rIAAOSw4Ehabu5u DreadLlama fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Feb 4, 2018 |
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Feb 3, 2018 21:30
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Speaking of batteries can anyone recommend a rechargeable 1.5V AA cell? My trail camera does not like the lower voltage of regular rechargeables. It takes 6, which means it gets only 7.2V and wants 9V.
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Feb 14, 2018 20:35
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Speaking of lawnmower chat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wf6CsvAffHo&t=216s I don't know about your atv, but mine is 3ft wide. There's more than enough body in the middle of a used 100lb propane tank to make a chain hub like in the video. If you've got a snowplow for your ATV you could copy it for the chassis mount. I think the really only important question is how big a motor you'd need to drive the flail, and the size of your alternator.
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May 30, 2018 09:24
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The power is definitely there but then you need a transmission. If you've got a motor with enough poles on it you could maybe do a direct drive. 
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May 30, 2018 12:41
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https://www.lowes.ca/socket-adapters/kobalt-3-piece-socket-adapter-set_g1185134.html
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Jun 4, 2018 14:23
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Can anyone recommend a cordless tool battery franchise which includes both a 7 1/4" circular saw and a random orbital sander?
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Jun 9, 2018 18:37
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I've found the Husqvarna battery line to be adequate. Even the cheaper "occasional-use" homeowner one. https://www.husqvarna.com/ca-en/products/trimmers/115il/967098702/
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Jul 11, 2018 01:37
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Some of my lithium batteries went swimming. They have not yet exploded. Are they likely to still be useable? Also, do any battery tool manufacturers meet the IP68 standard?
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Jul 19, 2018 17:25
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Maybe with a 10 foot pole.
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Jul 19, 2018 18:13
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My dog pulled them off the shelf where they were charging and dropped them in his water bowl. I found them fully submerged with the chargers blinking and error code. After leaving them to dry overnight I tested them on a drill and they seem to still be working. Anyways they haven't exploded and I'm certain everything is 100% perfectly fine.
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Jul 21, 2018 19:12
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bobua posted:Despite my use of exotic oils, soothe-saying, and ample paste wax, I'm still dealing with rust quite a bit. I want something that's less aggressive than paint stripping disks for the angle grinder. Something like a scotch bright pad for it? Any recommendations? I have had good results from putting down the grinder and putting 320 grit paper on a 5" random orbital.
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Jun 11, 2019 14:29
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Sometimes I feel that the best use of cordless power tools may be the temporary removal of ones license plate for parking purposes.
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Jul 23, 2019 18:00
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What's the point of failure in something like that? Weld bead? Threads? Or when they go is it more like a boiler explosion?
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Jul 30, 2019 17:43
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Does anyone have a torque wrench they really like? I've just decided to retire a bent beam type hand-me-down. Does anyone make one that goes from zero to 35ish Nm?
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Aug 9, 2019 01:35
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The lowest torque I need to apply is 6Nm, so I guess 50 inch•lbs. Not quite zero. And you have hit upon the issue I'm trying to resolve. The manual says I've got to tighten bolts to 23, 24, 32, 33 and 35 Nm. So I was crossing my fingers hoping that somebody knew about a 1/4" wrench with a higher than normal upper range.
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Aug 9, 2019 16:41
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