Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Any chance that this router is of an age that it's a reasonable quality router rather than garbage?

https://hibid.com/lot/78777810/craftsman-3-4-hp-router-with-case--worked-when/?zip=21801&miles=25&q=&ref=lot-list

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Rutibex posted:

It's $9, just bid on it and find out

I guess I'm trying to calibrate how much money is worth risking on it! Which I recognize is kind of personal, but I've got a few hours and thought I'd get some opinions.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Cannon_Fodder posted:

A router for what?

It's a motor with a hole on the end.


Slap it into a router table and it should be fine.


The ergonomics of lovely old routers are where I tend to find most issues.


To clarify: Don't get this to do trim. Get this if you want something beefy and stationary or you're flattening a slab/cutting channels in poo poo.

Thanks, that's helpful! I suppose I was probably thinking about trim. I'd like a router table at some point but I don't have the space or the option to majorly redo my existing space at the moment (renting).

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Those old craftsman routers are good but as others have mentioned, depth adjustment isn't as slick as more modern ones. If it's old but not run a ton, it's probably fine, but if it was used a lot in it's long life there's a decent chance the bearings are shot and it will be an even louder screaming hunk of metal.

It seems like it probably had a long life, this looked like a legit woodworker's estate sale, there was basically every power tool and a bunch of hand tools that somebody might want on sale, all looked well-used. Thanks for the tips everyone.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Out of curiosity, is this a good deal for this jointer?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/778300559558514/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=undefined

Seems like it'd probably be a motherfucker to move, but still, a jointer.

Edit: Although hmm that cord looks like it might be hosed up near the plug and I guess it might be 220v which would be a no-go for me for the time being.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

nitsuga posted:

Any suggestions for a miter saw stand? I think it’d be nice if it could tuck away, so I’m guessing I’m looking at portable ones in that case. Really only need it occasionally, but I could spend a bit more if it was worth the money. Some possibilities are below.

Ryobi: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Universal-Miter-Saw-QUICKSTAND-A18MS01G/205642391

Wen: https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-Collapsible-Rolling-Miter-Saw-Stand-with-3-Onboard-Outlets-MSA330/306588128

I have the Ryobi one and it's fine, although it's a bit of a pain to bolt my ryobi miter saw into, ironically. That wen one looks cool if you'll have space to roll the stand around in, my miter stand is heavy.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

canyoneer posted:

Dads posting their W's

I just picked up a Bosch 9 gallon hepa vacuum marked down to $170 from $500 at my local Lowes. Only took me peering up at the stacks near the shop vacs on three separate occasions to find the box, which was covered in dust.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
A few years before we bought this house, apparently some guys who did contracting work rented it and left behind a bunch of poo poo in our weird backyard garage. Among other things there's this pile of nail gun nails:



Is this pile worth anything? If so, how much, and how weird are the guys who are likely to show up for a loose pile of nail gun nails?

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Rutibex posted:

Nails are not very valuable. If they were screws it would be a different story

If they were screws I'd be keeping them so that tracks. Maybe the local metal recycling place will pay for them.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Bloody posted:

your local habitat for humanity will almost certainly take them + put them to use

Good call, I shot them an e-mail.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Regarding drill presses:

Does this seem like a reasonably good deal? Apparently Orbit was basically the same as Jet back in the day:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/408493896888045/

Danhenge fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Jun 13, 2021

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Captain Organ posted:

Of all the electronic stud finders I have ever used, the only ones worth even half a poo poo have been the Franklin sensors multi-led ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/Franklin-Sensors-FS710PROProSensor-Professional-Finder/dp/B0195K8OT4

They show up at Costco every once in a while if you have a membership there.

Just a note: this has worked very poorly in my lathe and plaster walls.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Motronic posted:

Have you found any way to find studs in those? Because the only thing I've found is knocking and luck. Even when you find one......who knows where the next one might be. Or the one after that. I've not found a lot of consistency.

Not really, but we've only lived here a month. The house is 90 years old so there's also lots of different renovation been done over the years.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Captain Organ posted:

Thats weird, its the only one that has worked on mine, both in the current house (1917) and my last apartment (~1900) both with heavy plaster walls. I usually sweep up and down the wall to confirm, but its pretty rare that I miss entirely.

This is also a good argument for keeping a 1/16 bit around to confirm with before you hang a heavy mirror or anything.

Well, considering what Motronic said it might just be that I have weirdly spaced studs where I'm expecting them to be regularly spaced, which is what is confusing me!

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Motronic posted:

They can be weirdly shaped too!

(I've seen a lot of this, living in a place where there are buildings from the 1700s)

My floor joists for the first floor all look reasonably shaped, so I imagine the rest of the lumber probably is too

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

The Slack Lagoon posted:

I bought a Dremel multi max like 5 months ago from Costco and the cord is having an issue and only sending intermittent power to the tool. I'm going to return it to Costco, but I still want an oscillating tool, but Costco doesn't have more in stock.

Anyone have experience with the Ryobi oscillating tool? My drill, impact driver, and circular saw are all Ryobi, so I already have a bunch of batteries and chargers for that tool ecosystem.

The brushless one's attachment system is different than the prior versions. I bought a cheap mulitpack of blades that were supposed to work on it and i couldn't get them clamped, even using the included adapters. Basically you can only use blades that have a full ring for the attachment piece, not the ones with an opening in the back. Otherwise it has worked fine for me so far.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

The Slack Lagoon posted:

I was about to ask about the brushless vs brushed. Is the brushless worth the price premium?

I've never owned an oscillating tool before so that's difficult to say. It's the one my local home depot had in stock when I needed to buy one.

edit: Other than the slightly greater difficulty in buying cheap blade replacements, it's worked fine for me. I cut through some old rusty screws with a metal blade I bought in-store without too much difficulty.

Danhenge fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Jul 16, 2021

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Motronic posted:

Also, I can't fin any model that doesn't take standard split quick change bits, even if you need a tool to put them on the non-quick ring, so it's not really clear what Danhenge ran into.

I just went and grabbed mine to take photo/video evidence and then upon closer inspection realized there's a little slidey/pivot hinge on the locking mechanism that I have not been using properly so all my quick change blades will actually work just fine. Glad I got lazy and never hassled the Amazon seller about returning this box of cheap blades!

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
I'm curious about general thoughts on tool storage? I have mostly power-tool centric woodworking stuff that I'm still trying to organize. I have a lot of freedom in my space, which is an old stick frame detached garage with nothing covering the studs. Some of the studs are moderately twisted because it appears to have been slowly sliding off the slab, and the sill plate looks to be in rough shape in at least one corner, so I'm hesitant to hang anything heavy directly on the studs where the sill plate looks iffy. I have some wire shelves in that corner. I don't think it's about to fall down.

I've got most of one wall free, two maybe six foot by 10 foot spans with a window in the middle that I haven't used up. Is pegboard the go-to? It feels really stupid but I had some repurposed kitchen cupboards back in a much smaller space in the old rental and now I feel at a loss for how to organize my poo poo.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Yeah, that all makes sense. I don't know why it seems so exhausting to me to get started on it! I even have some waste plywood from some weird box that an old renter or something left in the garage that I can use to begin with.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Slugworth posted:

How much time would you say you spend in this structure that you don't trust to not fall down under the weight of some tools being hung on a wall?

I guess I wouldn't mind hanging tools. I have a lumber rack I was going to put in that corner before i saw the problem, and I figured that was in a different territory than hooks and tools.

I will likely be posting about the garage at some point in the near future, since I want to try and fix the sill plate eventually and maybe try and bring the structure back into true. I have zero experience with jacking & the other stuff that would be necessary to do that so I'll need to proceed cautiously and take a lot of advice. The old plywood + hooks is the most sensible because it's cheap and easy to take down when the time comes.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Is there a reliable way to tell good quality old Craftsman stuff from newer stuff?

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Mine will choke a little bit if I let the lawn get really long or near the end of the battery charge, but it does OK on a relatively small lawn. It's also not hard to restart, since you just press a button, not rev an engine like a gas mower.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Anyone have any thoughts on an Enco 40005 floor model drill press? There's one for sale near me that looks like it's in pretty good shape and is up for $150. I'm mostly interested in it for woodworking, not metalworking, so I'm not sure I need it for the absolute slowest speeds.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
It might just be the same import as the older chicago electrics from Harbor Freight. Looks kind of similar?

edit: Heres the marketplace link https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/293720339185761/

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Literally A Person posted:

I still see people hocking their old CM benchtop drill presses after years of work time on them.

E: realized you said it's the Chicago electric. Not too sure about those but if they're of comparable quality to the CM then I'm still in camp Go-for-it.

Well, it sold within six hours so I guess it was a good deal. I couldn't have gotten out there today anyway.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
I have that stand and it works fine, but it is pretty heavy and mildly cumbersome to set up. Also the angle to screw in the bolts to hold the saw are at kind of a weird angle.

Something like the DeWalt wheel stand is much nicer, although perhaps a lot more expensive

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Johnny Truant posted:

Awesome, thanks for the info! Maybe I'll look into a separate stand, I remember seeing a Husky foldable workbench that seemed decent food around a bill.

I'm not too worried about the saw clearance I don't think, it'll probably stay stored around my (future) workbench and then get set up right in the middle of my garage when I'm going at it. I think the price difference between sliding and non-sliding was pretty negligible, but I'll look into that as well.

This Ridgid stand is on sale:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...UkBThlQdQxi0WY0

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Motronic posted:

https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/workbenches/60-in-4-drawer-hardwood-workbench-63395.html

That's bigger than what you want, but it's pretty decent quality (several friends have them) and inexpensive to the point I don't think you couldn't buy the wood to do something yourself for that price.

E: couldn't, not could

These are the benches that we used in my window restoration class and i can confirm that they are pretty reasonable quality.

Edit: the ones in Bob's shop were probably a decade old so it might be a similar issue

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
There's stuff like the battery management system that different brands locate in different places (batteries vs chargers and/or tools) which make the whole thing a little complicated.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Literally A Ghost posted:

Oh god someone is getting rid of a shopsmith for $250. I might have to stab someone to get this thing. Looks like just some surface rust.



There's one or two perpetually for sale near me, are they any good?

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Rexxed posted:

I've mentioned Direct tools outlet a few times since I've gotten a few Ryobi batteries and tools from them. They're having a 25% off sale on ryobi with some items coming with a free electrostatic sprayer (seems to be for spraying liquids for disinfection and cleaning). Shipping is $9.99:

https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/Products/c/1?q=:relevance:brand:RYOBIONE%252B&text=

One important thing to keep in mind with DTO sales is that everything is always discounted, so this is 25% off of "MSRP" which may or may not be a good deal relative to usual pricing.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
The real question is, where do you get good date knife at?

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

CommonShore posted:

To bring the "fine finish vs cabinetmaking" question back around -

If I spend a few hundred bucks on this used Bosch jobsite saw, am I going to be relatively happy with it if I want to use it for making good, straight, square rips and sled/jig/fence work for joinery? How much better of reliability, squareness, and repeatability can I get without getting into the cast iron/cabinetmaker/grizzly tier of tools?

Keeping in mind, as I said, that I do my sheet good breakdowns with a circ saw. I'm not worried about sheet good stuff.


Another way to put the question is that I have an opportunity for a good deal on this saw, including right of first refusal, and I want to do stuff like I see Tamar and Steve Ramsay doing with theirs like furniture and endgrain cutting boards. Is this particular saw reliable enough for that or should I keep waiting?

(I'm going to buy the compound miter saw for sure - I'm just waffling on the table/jobsite saw now).

I would not personally spend "a few hundred bucks" (that sounds like minimum $200?) on a used jobsite table saw of unknown quality that is currently missing an unspecified number of items. I doubt it would be a tremendous upgrade to your janky existing stuff. Is this a situation where you can set it up and take a few test cuts to see how you like it? As a current Ridgid jobsite table saw owner the only jobsite saws that seem worth the possible upgrade are a DeWalt or the new Skil brand table saw.

It's probably worth poking around to see if there are any good tuning videos on your current table saw to see if you can make it work better for your purposes in the near term.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
I don't think the Bosch jobsite saws are very popular in the continental US. I don't think that's a matter of the quality of the saw, they're just not as ubiquitous as your ridgids and dewalts and various house brands. On Lowes and HD the Bosch table saw gets 1/10 the reviews of any of the more popular brands, so there might not be a lot of direct experience with that table saw. I think maybe the general advice you've gotten is the best you're going to get here. Looking through the reviews on the HD and Lowes sites might give you a better insight into potential issues with that model.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Bob Mundon posted:

Brickseek link to give you somewhat of a heads up. It's not 100% accurate but generally pretty good.

https://brickseek.com/lowes-inventory-checker/?sku=1001385562


If your Lowe's is showing it hop on it quick, they are going FAST.

It's still showing up for $680 in my area.

Danhenge fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Dec 15, 2021

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
I decided not to drive 40 minutes each yesterday to get that Delta table saw because my saw is "fine" and then today I had an irritating experience in the interaction between my saw's fence not being perfectly parallel to the blade and the riving knife. Feels bad.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

FISHMANPET posted:

Order placed, let's see if it works!

Same, I'm going to drive up and get mine later this afternoon.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
I'm standing waiting for them to bring mine out. The woman who was pulling up my online order said someone tried to buy 4 on a credit card that didn't match their name.

Edit: Success!



Getting it out of my car to my shop will be interesting.

Danhenge fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Jan 1, 2022

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
My Ridgid job site saw is a pain to keep adjusted and the fence is awful. If i had the DeWalt it would have been harder to justify.

Edit: Last time the deal came up I told myself I didn't need it, and then the next day went outside and was almost immediately incredibly frustrated with my saw.

Danhenge fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jan 1, 2022

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply