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I'm crossposting this from the A/V setup, because it's more of just an A/V porn thread. I'm trying to decide how to setup my home theater in my new apartment. I see two possibilities mainly, but drat is 7.1 annoying to setup. I think this not to scale picture I drew would be the best option for wiring and the theater design, but maybe not for the use of the room. I liked having my cable modem, router, and switch on my TV stand like I did in my last apartment so I could network my 360, PS3, and computer together. I think I might drill a hole through that right wall and run a cable into my roommates room and then do one more ghetto from his room to mine. The only coax jack is on that 10'6" wall so I'd put a rug where that lower right entrance is and run the cable under it along with that lower on-wall speaker cable, and the speakers on the stands. I don't know what to do about the cables that would be going to those ones on the stands though. Something to cover them up? There would also be a speaker wire running up the wall to the side speakers. Last time I didn't have a problem because there was a porch door and window that they ran against so you couldn't see them. Putting those on stands wouldn't really leave much room to walk there and people are already going to have to watch their head I think. Right now I only have the one couch, but I was thinking of getting another and putting it along that top wall. The 6'5" viewing distance I calculated for my 50" TV doesn't leave much room for another couch though especially in this setup. If the room is 20 feet and the couch is only at most 10 feet total from the wall, it seems kind of silly to have half the room empty. The other option would be to put the TV along that 10'6" wall. After making this picture, I'm actually starting to think that's a better option. What do you guys think? Any tips on what to do with cables?
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# ¿ May 12, 2011 00:16 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 05:33 |
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Think this is the best thread for this question. Setting up the supplied TV in my new grad school dorm with my own receiver. The cable TV service just comes from the wall via coax into the TV. My receiver doesn't have a coax in so I can't connect directly to it. Is there some way I can still use my speakers through the receiver with the regular TV service? Would there need to be an HDMI out from the TV which goes to the receiver and then it goes back to the TV through the receiver's HDMI out?
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# ¿ Sep 10, 2015 21:08 |
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the nicker posted:Depending on your tv/receiver, you would either use the optical out from the TV to the receiver, or use audio return channel (ARC) to send the audio back to your receiver over the same HDMI that goes into it. I see that the TV (Sharp LC-60EQ10U) has ARC over HDMI 1. I'm not seeing anything in the audio settings on the TV though for it. Does the receiver need to support it? I'm not really sure what input the receiver would need to be set to either since it's not actually using any of its inputs. edit: ok my receiver does not support it. How does an optical setup normally work? edit2: nevermind I got it all setup. The audio is only coming from the two towers and not the center channel though. I wonder if the sub will do anything. (I have a 3.1 setup) KingKapalone fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Sep 10, 2015 |
# ¿ Sep 10, 2015 22:10 |
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My dad is having (had it for awhile) a problem with his Pioneer VSX-1020K receiver and will now be a bigger issue when trying to use his fancy new Harmony. He's had this issue since he got the receiver years ago. The cable box is on and plugged into the receiver via HDMI. If he turns on the power to the TV and then to the receiver, the TV starts it's power on and the receiver turns on. The receiver then turns off before the TV is able to output any video. Turning the receiver back on will then work fine. The same thing happens if I try to watch the HTPC. The HTPC is already on and connected to HDMI 5. Turn the TV on, receiver on, switch inputs if needed, receiver turns off, then TV finishes booting up. If I turn on receiver first and let it finish powering up, even start receiving the audio from the cable box, then turn the TV on, the receiver still shuts off. After turning it back on, everything works fine. Any idea what is going on? Need more info from me? This is preventing setting up the Harmony because it's obviously trying to turn everything on at once. edit: haha funny how small things don't take a priority until they're more of a problem. I just found the Control via HDMI setting in the receiver settings and turned it off since I don't think it's used and it fixed the problem. 30 minutes of work for a years old problem. KingKapalone fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Jan 5, 2017 |
# ¿ Jan 5, 2017 22:19 |
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Is the Denon AVR-X2300W 7.2 receiver posted on the last page the thread go-to for one around that price? I have one of the thread go-tos circa 2008 in the Pioneer VSX-1018AH-K, but I'm thinking about getting an LG OLED C7P so I probably need a new receiver for 4K and Atmos, right? I have a 7.1 setup and a Windows HTPC with Kodi on it.
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# ¿ Feb 16, 2018 20:53 |
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I'm mainly just trying to figure out how to get the most (re: function, not necessarily $$$$ quality) out of my new C7P and the 4k / hdr it brings. The added benefit of Atmos is something I'd also like to take advantage of using my 7.1 system. A new receiver seems like the logical addition. Seeing that the receivers around $400 do Atmos but only in a 5.X.X configuration slightly through me for a loop. I guess I don't know enough about the positioning for Atmos since I don't have ceiling speakers or a second sub. Is the addition of ceiling speakers the only real innovation?
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# ¿ Feb 19, 2018 19:34 |
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Asked this in the TV thread but it got to be more about audio so I think I should ask here. Just got a new OLED C7P. My receiver is a Pioneer 1018 VSX-AHK from 2008 so pretty sure there's no ARC since it isn't specified and I think ARC started in 2009. I think that means I have to use an optical cable from the TV to the receiver for audio. My PS4 Pro, Switch, and Windows HTPC are plugged into the C7. On the receiver I have the input set to TV since that is using Optical 1 for an audio input, but just not using any video input. I'm getting 5.1 (extended into my 7.1) when using the C7's built-in Netflix app. Not getting surround from the HTPC though. It correctly recognizes that the TV it is physically hooked up to is just stereo, but it doesn't know the receiver exists so can't switch to surround. Not getting surround from my Switch or PS4 Pro either. I have the Switch set to Surround and tried changing the PS4 from HDMI to Optical, but I think that is used only if I was using an optical cable from the PS4. The game I was trying was showing that only 2.0 was available.
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# ¿ Feb 24, 2018 02:44 |
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The Denon AVRX1400H is on sale for $300 at Best Buy. I'm also an employee so I can get the 2400 for $468. Is there any reason to get the 2400 if I think the 1400's six HDMI ports are enough for my devices?
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# ¿ May 15, 2018 21:37 |
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qirex posted:It looks like the main difference besides the inputs is the amp is a little beefier on the 2400 and it has dual HDMI outputs. These probably aren't super relevant unless you have super inefficient speakers and/or a projector and TV. $300 is a pretty good price on the 1400, same as a refurb on AC4L. Should I worry about being future proof for Atmos ceiling speakers? Looks like you have to jump all the way to the 4400 which is so much more. The 1400 supports Atmos, but does an Atmos track offer much if you don't have the additional speakers?
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# ¿ May 15, 2018 22:57 |
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qirex posted:There's no difference if you don't have the presence [ceiling/bounce] speakers. Atmos IMO is mostly for people who already have a good system but are bored and get upgradeitis. Even in actual movie theaters the effect is subtle. Build a decent 5.1 system first. Thanks. Ordered the 1400.
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# ¿ May 16, 2018 17:17 |
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In setting up this new Denon 1400, my TV should be using the ARC HDMI port to connect to it so I can keep getting surround sound from my 4k apps, right?
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# ¿ May 19, 2018 15:48 |
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Just bought this house and move in at the end of August. Thinking about where in the basement to setup my home theater. I have a 65" OLED, Denon X1400, 7.1 speakers, and a left-side sectional couch. I'd like to check out doing two ceiling speakers. Here are some thoughts and questions I have, thanks! TV stuff - Not interested in putting the TV too high up on the wall like the previous owners did - All the windows will be rough on the OLED - Potential TV locations - where that 4x4 brown shelf is - bright? kind of lose that sliding door, would move table over to other side of room - the wall to the right of their TV (behind that is a staircase up, also the furnace space) - could impede access to the room behind that fireplace - where that 2x4 shelf is - kind of inefficient use of room, that pillar is stupid - There are some cables going through the wall in that fireplace but not sure where they all terminate or how I could reuse Audio stuff - Speaker placement advice? Requires picking a TV spot too - This big square room seems like a nightmare for speakers especially the wiring, I've never put stuff in the wall before - Don't know how the ceiling joists are positioned off the top of my head which I hear could impact having ceiling speakers - Should I do ceiling speakers? Any specific speaker recommendations? Network stuff - I want to run network cable to wherever the equipment is too, probably out of scope for this post
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2020 20:41 |
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KingKapalone posted:Just bought this house and move in at the end of August. Thinking about where in the basement to setup my home theater. I have a 65" OLED, Denon X1400, 7.1 speakers, and a left-side sectional couch. I'd like to check out doing two ceiling speakers. Here are some thoughts and questions I have, thanks! Reposting this to see if anyone has any thoughts. Going to post in the TV thread too. Please don't be mad.
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# ¿ Jul 20, 2020 20:31 |
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I've always had to up the levels on my center. I even then usually need to turn the volume up which makes my fiance tell me to turn it down anytime there's action on screen. This is true after the 9 different times I've set this thing up in places I've lived. Is there something different to do?
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2020 03:21 |
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Anyone have recommendations for ceiling speakers sold at Best Buy? https://www.bestbuy.com/site/speakers/in-wall-in-ceiling-speakers/pcmcat210900050000.c?id=pcmcat210900050000 I'm an employee so the discount is usually about half off for audio stuff. Just bought a house and getting a Magnolia consultation tomorrow so hoping they can help figure out what to do with this too big, too boxy basement. I think ceiling speakers might come into play. If better speakers are available for the same price after discount at AC4L then I could go with those instead.
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# ¿ Aug 25, 2020 20:01 |
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Integrating with my current setup, don't think I'll upgrade those since we're house poor now. I have Energy C-500 front towers, C-C100 center, and four C-100 bookshelves. I'm not sure if I'll be able to use all or any of the bookshelves. Paired with Denon X1400H. Searched for some recommendations on reddit and it sounds like ceiling speakers can be pretty cheap. The Best Buy ones even with the discount might be unnecessarily expensive. KingKapalone fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Aug 25, 2020 |
# ¿ Aug 25, 2020 20:43 |
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Anyone have anything to say about actual ceiling Atmos speakers? I want to put some in which I'd have to pay for since I don't know about running wire. It's complicated trying to access the joists so it will require some blank wall plates to cover a couple holes. There's also some ethernet I want run. A local AV guy said he's $85/hr and thinks it could take the full 8 hour day, so $680. Not all of that is the Atmos like I said, but wondering if it's worth it.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2020 05:20 |
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Dogen posted:In ceiling is the way to go if you can, certainly. We talked about whether atmos was worthwhile a while back and opinions on that vary as you’d expect. Thanks. For ceiling speakers it seems like the inexpensive ones are still good. I saw mention of things like Monoprice house brand I think for under $100.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2020 19:39 |
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Any recommendation on Atmos ceiling speakers? Would be 5.1.2 for now but I'm probably running cable for four in case I upgrade my receiver. I've heard they can be cheap like https://smile.amazon.com/Micca-Reference-R-8C-Rimless-In-Ceiling/dp/B008QQ9SB2/ or these even cheaper Miccas https://smile.amazon.com/Micca-M-8C-Ceiling-Speaker-Pivoting/dp/B002YPS6T6/ I also should have known but didn't think about the fact that the ceilings should change location if you add two more. This https://www.dolby.com/about/support/guide/speaker-setup-guides/5.1.2-overhead-speaker-setup-guide/ vs this https://www.dolby.com/about/support/guide/speaker-setup-guides/5.1.4-overhead-speaker-setup-guide/ Any tips on approaching this? Should I just buy the drat new receiver and do 4 or even just scrap the idea of 4 entirely?
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# ¿ Sep 22, 2020 03:53 |
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I installed ceiling speakers. I have an Nvidia shield and a Denon x1400h. What should I be watching for Atmos? Do regular blurays or just UHD? Netflix has it. Also how about surround sound in general? It's ridiculous that football on YouTube tv is just stereo.
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2020 19:20 |
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Another question since I'm going through Audyssey again after putting in the ceilings. I have the crossover knob on the sub at to 80Hz and on the Bass settings it's set to LFE only at 120Hz. These aren't the same things I guess? I have my speaker crossovers at 80Hz for Fronts and Center. Then 100Hz for Surround and Ceilings. That good?
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2020 22:53 |
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KozmoNaut posted:Turn the crossover knob on the sub all the way up or disable the crossover/use the LFE input if you have those options. Your receiver will manage the crossover frequency, the sub should just play anything the receiver sends to it. Interesting, I just noticed that my VK-12 sub has a switch I haven't seen that says Crossover Out/In. Sounds like that should be set to Out for the receiver to control everything. For the bass setting in Audysey, I saw a post on reddit that it should be LFE only. This guide also says LFE+main means my speakers should be set to Large also, but those are supposed to be set to Small when you have a sub AFAIK https://www.avsforum.com/threads/guide-to-subwoofer-calibration-and-bass-preferences.2958528/#aname-Section%20IIIE That difference might change the rest of the advice?
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# ¿ Oct 19, 2020 19:39 |
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Thanks. Do I need to run Audyssey calibration again now that I've switched it off? That just gets levels so probably not?
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# ¿ Oct 19, 2020 21:46 |
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Everything I read elsewhere says not to use LFE only assuming all your speakers are set to Small which they should be when using a sub. Sounds like LFE+main wouldn't actually do anything when speakers are set to Small.
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# ¿ Oct 20, 2020 16:52 |
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WTF makes a speaker $229k? What is the value proposition they're pushing other than "you have unlimited money and this one is the best because it's this expensive, obviously." What's the margin on that? Also I've had C-series Energy speakers since 2008. What sort of price point would I be looking at for a meaningful upgrade and what would I be gaining? I bought them without hearing them and I've never really heard other speakers outside of a movie theater or the crazy expensive ones at Best Buy. KingKapalone fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Oct 28, 2020 |
# ¿ Oct 28, 2020 14:33 |
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Sorry, it's the C-500 towers, the C-C100 center, and C-100 surrounds. Just added some Micca M-8c heights too. I also have a BIC America VK-12 sub from the same time.
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2020 17:38 |
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I wasn't really following the HDMI 2.1 issue but this sounds like it's fixed? https://www.audioholics.com/news/sound-united-hdmi-2.1-no-issue Is it the X7XX series Denon's that had this problem? I recently installed 4 ceiling speakers so my X1400 can't power them all so I'm looking at upgrading. I'd have to get up to the 3600 or 3700 for 9 speakers. I should go for the 3700 if I want to eventually get a 2.1 TV with a PS5? Other than Accessories 4 Less, where are these good deals? Another question I had is about UHD bluray. I read the PS5 can't do 5.1.4 or Dolby Vision. Doesn't even seem like many UHD players can do Dolby Vision though, have to spend another $500 https://www.bestbuy.com/site/panaso...p?skuId=6278202 Is there a recommended player?
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# ¿ Jan 5, 2021 16:38 |
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qirex posted:It is absolutely not fixed. The PS5 has always worked because of its specific 4:2:0 output at 4k/120 which the XBox doesn't support. If you're only planning to have a PS5 for gaming you'll be fine with a 2020 Denon. If you want 9 channels you'll need at least the 3700 [or a 2700 and eARC]. Does the PS5 UHD player actually support 9 channels though? I saw somewhere on reddit that it doesn't. That would probably be the only thing making me get a standalone player in addition to that. DV only probably wouldn't be enough to justify it.
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# ¿ Jan 5, 2021 17:46 |
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I can get SVS products for half off retail through a work benefit. Was thinking about a a new sub for movies, TV, games. I'd probably top out at the SB-3000 for $500 but wonder if anyone could compare that to either of the 2000 Pros for $450 or $400. My wife already complains that things are too loud with my BIC H-100 VK12 from 13 years ago. How are SVS speakers? There are usually other companies with discounts but COVID has reduced them and I probably won't be at this job much longer so maybe I should upgrade my Energy C series speakers. Oh and do the most recent Denon's still have the VRR issue? KingKapalone fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Apr 7, 2021 |
# ¿ Apr 7, 2021 14:23 |
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I'm wanting to upgrade my sound system since I have a corporate discount (~50% off for audio products) through Best Buy which includes Magnolia and I plan to leave the company in the next couple months. Here's some relevant info and questions I have, so would appreciate any feedback. Current setup: Energy speakers are C500s, CC100, C100s plus four Micca 8" ceiling speakers but only using two due to receiver. Sub is a BIC H-100. Receiver is Denon X1400H. TV is an LG C7 65". Viewing space: Sitting position on the couch is about 9.5' and the couch is about 9.5' long. The full size of this room in the basement though is about 23' x 26'. Usage: UHD blurays or streaming movies, TV, games. Rarely music. My wife already always tells me to turn it down and thinks I have bad hearing. I THINK I have everything setup properly using Audyssey etc, but I'll definitely have it turned up for the dialogue but then some action happens and it gets loud. I just tell her that's because it's supposed to get loud then, it's an explosion. I'm worried that big bass is going to be a problem. Speakers: There are tons to choose from. I plan to go listen in the two Magnolia design centers near me, but even then it's just what they have and I know some of them are the $5k+ ones. I saw 9 floorstanders at around $800-1,000 each on the website so thought that could be a good price point. I want it to be a meaningful upgrade from what I have now. What should I listen for at the store? I've seen these KEFs on reddit a few times. These DTs have a bigger discount so actually come out to the same price. Think it's worth it to go up to a next price point tier like $1500 and really take advantage of this discount? Subwoofer: I was originally thinking of one SVS SB-3000, but now I'm thinking about two PB-2000 Pros which would be 2x the price. I've heard two lesser subs will be better than one better one. The ported will also be better for non-music? I'm also now thinking that a room this size would benefit from the ported. Doubling my original price point here isn't normally my thing, so please help me think through this. I'm also wondering if I'd even be able to get much bass out of this before it shakes the house and I get scolded. Receiver: These are hard to get. Was thinking of the Denon X3700H since it's the first one that would support a 5.1.4 system. The Magnolia guy said it wouldn't be the right amount of power for a system with big floorstanders though since that's only 105W per channel and those KEFs for example say they range from 15-200W. He said they'll play, but without covering that full range I'll get distortion or harsh sound at higher volumes. He said this could be leading to some of the volume complaints since it's not actually the volume, but actually the quality of the audio. How much of that is true? Does the amp in the receiver need to deliver 200W for a speaker like that? I'm also a little concerned about the current gen receiver HDMI 2.1 issue with not being able to do full RGB 4k HDR and VRR. Seems like a poor time to upgrade.
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2021 18:53 |
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TheMadMilkman posted:The most cost-effective upgrades here will be subs. When you say more than I need and then mention their size, I imagine there's some other things I could still consider for sound quality. Are there other things I should be looking for? Will even these KEF still have a marked improvement over the Energy I have now? For the subs, I get the idea of smoothing out the bass which could be nice since the big loud movies are probably the action movies I'd want friends over to watch and we'd be spread out. Would going with 2000s over 1000s be worth the jump if I'm looking to put more money somewhere in the whole package over doing the same for speakers? For example, spending an extra $350 to upgrade the subs compared to needing to spend a couple $1000 to get a relatively similar quality boost in speakers? For ported vs sealed, it doesn't sound like you think the ported would make enough difference? The large room rather than the type of listening is what made me think ported would work better. Good to know about the receiver. Might just have to get that and deal with ARC if I get a new VRR TV.
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2021 22:44 |
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TheMadMilkman posted:So for the speaker size I’m commenting on two different things. First is the transition between the tweeter and the midrange. For the Q950, the midrange is an 8” driver. That’s really big, and the transition between the two won’t be as smooth as it could be. The Q750 has a 6.5” midrange, which will give you a much smoother transition. Thanks, the similarly priced ELACs would actually be $60 less each even though their retail price is higher. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/elac-uni-fi-5-1-4-140-watt-passive-3-way-floor-speaker-each-satin-black/5706253.p?skuId=5706253 The matching center for the ELAC is much cheaper but also sold out. The KEF center and bookshelfs are available. I wonder if they'll have all of these available to demo.
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2021 22:38 |
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Ok Comboomer posted:worth noting that KEF Q series goes on heavy discount a lot, both on kefdirect (KEF direct online store) and from retailers like Crutchfield, etc. In my original post I mentioned I get the Best Buy corporate discount so the KEFs are all 45% off. The ELACs have a 56% discount.
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2021 02:34 |
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Animale posted:https://www.forbes.com/sites/johnarcher/2021/04/27/xbox-series-x-hdmi-bug-fix-announced-for-denon-and-marantz-receivers/amp/ That affects PS5s too right? They just mention xbox most of the time.
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2021 03:23 |
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Another post about my KEF Q Series inquiries. Pretty decided on the KEF Q750 towers. For bookshelves and center should I also get the Qs with the 6.5" driver? If they're just surround should I save the money and get the Q150s with the 5.25" instead? Same exact question for the center.
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2021 19:16 |
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Ok Comboomer posted:Save the money on the Q150s, definitely. For the center you should 1) match the size of the primary driver (the fancy “Uni-Q” one) to the one in your fronts (so 6.5” if the fronts are 6.5”, etc) 2) get what will fit under your tv/in your cabinet. The size is something I was thinking about and I posted this in the TV thread. I imagine we're all thinking about the same thing, so sure I'll cross post it here: Question about TV height. My TV stand is 23.5" and I plan to get a new center speaker that would need to be on top so the TV (LG 65" C7) would have to be mounted above that. The speaker is 8.3" tall, so the bottom of the TV would be at least 31.8" off the floor. The top of the TV would be at about 64" then. My eye level sitting up right in the main spot on the couch is roughly 37" off the floor. If I'm laying down then it's only about 27". I sit about 9.5 feet away. Is that TV mount going to be too high? How should I calculate all this? I'm wondering if I need a shorter TV stand. If I ever got a bigger TV I imagine it would be even more of an issue.
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2021 19:47 |
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Anyone have a recommendation for a sub isolation pad? I see these as an option too: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/svs-soundpath-subwoofer-isolation-system-black/5707605.p?skuId=5707605 Also my new KEF Q150s are wider and longer than my current rear bookshelves plus my speaker stands were already not those most sturdy, so I should get new ones. Any recommendations?
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# ¿ May 2, 2021 23:14 |
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Hmm Vibrapods are half the price and I have two subs. I wonder how these two things compare to each other?
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# ¿ May 3, 2021 04:30 |
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I guess that goes for speaker stands too! The ones I have now look to be these exact ones but from a different manufacturer I think: https://smile.amazon.com/ECHOGEAR-Bookshelf-Speaker-Stand-Pair/dp/B07T1DCVGZ/ They're 30" tall and the top plate is just 5"x5" but these new KEF Q150s are 7"x11". These are 6.5"x6.5" up top at least and almost 1/3rd the price of the Monoprice. Seems silly to spend $120 on stands! https://smile.amazon.com/Atlantic-77335799-Speaker-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B007P8DKDE/ I don't have kids yet, but probably soon and I assume a toddler would easily knock the speaker off the top. I don't think my stands now would fall over, but the velcro holding the speaker on top could give.
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# ¿ May 4, 2021 05:58 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 05:33 |
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I'm going to be setting up two subs for the first time. Is there anything new I need to do? I plan to run Audyssey on my Denon and follow this: https://www.svsound.com/blogs/subwoofer-setup-and-tuning/subwoofer-calibration-tuning-getting-the-bass-just-right I have the subs up front in between the TV and the front towers. I've never used REW before, but have heard about it recently. Anything to do with that?
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# ¿ May 8, 2021 00:43 |