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Bumble Dong posted:https://outcastdroneworks.com/products/microhawk-complete-maker-kit  that thing is a tiny little 3 inch with a 3250mah battery, it looks like theyre using Lithium Ion 18650 cells...i AM very INTERESTED IN SEEING SOME FLIGHT VIDEOS ONCE YOU GET ITI hit caps lock but fuckit I don't want to retype that, pretend I'm that hyped. https://outcastdroneworks.com/collections/microhawk-complete-kit/products/2s7-4v-3250mah-lithium-ion-high-amperage-pack
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Jun 4, 2020 15:11
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Hadlock posted:So whats the difference between pixhawk 2.4.8 and pixhawk 4? Supposedly the 4 is more reliable for some reason? Seems like people have been using 2.4.8 reliably for a long time, what am I missing  .The Pixhawk 2.4.8 is a clone of the old 'original' pixhawk and uses a STM32F427. It's nothing fancy, but they've been made for a long time and mostly just work. The Pixhawk 4 is aimed at the more commercial side and uses a STM32F765 and better sensors. I actually don't know anyone who uses this. Holybro support is notoriosly bad. The 2.4.8 is more than enough for your project. If you really do want to go fancier with the FC, then I highly recommend the CUAV V3x series rather than the Pixhawk 4.
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Jun 4, 2020 17:34
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Pixhawk hardware is open source and numbering, versions, etc is not really controlled so nothing is stopping whatever Chinese company from doing a different board layout with a better servo bus or something and calling it a Pixhawk 13 which is exactly what happens. Like the really expensive big hexes I set up for a company that came with a “Pixhawk 2” that was in actuality an AUAV X2.1 which is basically the same thing as a Pixhawk 1 but with a weird board layout in a cheesy 3D printed case.
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Jun 4, 2020 18:23
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Yeah I get it, buying hobbyist electronics crap from ebay is always sketchy. I learned that the first time I tried buying an 18650 5000mah cell. Half the words on the label were misspelled. Also it was closer to 800mah worth of capacity. I've also bought a bunch of questionable quality esp8266/arduino crap over the years Is there a preferred ardupilot-compatible pixhawk vendor, or one that you might trust over others. Looks like I need a device that's compatible with ardurover 3.5 and/or 4.0 to get the sailboat features. I think ardurover 3.5 is from second half of 2018 so it's not exactly bleeding edge
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Jun 4, 2020 21:34
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Any 2.4.8 will do these days. In fact, most 'clones' are better than the original Pixhawk 1s: https://www.banggood.com/Pixhawk-PX4-2_4_8-Flight-Controller-32-Bit-ARM-PX4FMU-PX4IO-Combo-for-Multicopters-p-1040416.html This is kinda more future proof: https://www.banggood.com/Matek-Systems-F405-WING-New-STM32F405-Flight-Controller-Built-in-OSD-for-RC-Drone-p-1292190.html It'll give you analog OSD if you ever put FPV on it and require less special cabling.
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Jun 4, 2020 21:49
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Any 2.4.8 will do these days. In fact, most 'clones' are better than the original Pixhawk 1s: Thanks, I went with the 2.4.8, it will take 5v direct on the servo power rail which is what I already have, this avoids me having to invest in a 2S/3S battery pack + charger. Gonna just use an existing 6 x AA battery thing and a 12A buck converter, will circle back around if I need more than 4-6 hours loiter time
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Jun 5, 2020 05:01
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i own every Bionicle posted:So I got my Tiny Trainer done! I got the Beta board and changed it. This is what the old Goku board looked like when I took it out:  
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Jun 8, 2020 20:49
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I have now had 2 Trashcan FCs (Crazybee F4 Pro v2.0) stop responding to my Flysky i6x TX, with the second one failing mere minutes into its maiden flight after a light (maybe 3m) fall on loose gravel after I disarmed it to make sure I didn't ram it into the ground during a gust of wind. The first one survived much harsher falls for months. Return signal gone, binding through betaflight just does nothing. I've tried flashing betaflight from various versions, including wiping settings. Can anyone tell me what the hell is going on? Could it somehow be the TX, and if so, how would I go about checking? I never dropped it, the antennas are attached fine and I can fly in sims with it with no issue.
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Jun 8, 2020 23:38
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Leandros posted:I have now had 2 Trashcan FCs (Crazybee F4 Pro v2.0) stop responding to my Flysky i6x TX, with the second one failing mere minutes into its maiden flight after a light (maybe 3m) fall on loose gravel after I disarmed it to make sure I didn't ram it into the ground during a gust of wind. The first one survived much harsher falls for months. Return signal gone, binding through betaflight just does nothing. I've tried flashing betaflight from various versions, including wiping settings. Can anyone tell me what the hell is going on? Could it somehow be the TX, and if so, how would I go about checking? I never dropped it, the antennas are attached fine and I can fly in sims with it with no issue. Sounds like typical happymodel quality, tbh. I've had luck soldering a second receiver onto a whoop FC before, try plugging it into betaflight and see if it's still getting control signals from the remote?
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Jun 8, 2020 23:42
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xsf421 posted:Sounds like typical happymodel quality, tbh. I've had luck soldering a second receiver onto a whoop FC before, try plugging it into betaflight and see if it's still getting control signals from the remote? Nope  guess I'll see if there are any light-weight receivers for Flysky.
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Jun 9, 2020 00:19
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Leandros posted:I have now had 2 Trashcan FCs (Crazybee F4 Pro v2.0) stop responding to my Flysky i6x TX, with the second one failing mere minutes into its maiden flight after a light (maybe 3m) fall on loose gravel after I disarmed it to make sure I didn't ram it into the ground during a gust of wind. The first one survived much harsher falls for months. Return signal gone, binding through betaflight just does nothing. I've tried flashing betaflight from various versions, including wiping settings. Can anyone tell me what the hell is going on? Could it somehow be the TX, and if so, how would I go about checking? I never dropped it, the antennas are attached fine and I can fly in sims with it with no issue. The crazybee F4 FCs are infamously unreliable I'm told, you might just be unlucky
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Jun 9, 2020 00:48
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How much of a spaz do I need to be about lipo batteries? I got the boy a car (I know this thread is airborne) for his birthday tomorrow, it’s takes a 5200mAh 3s, I’m charging it now, but it’s cool to let us sit for a day or 2? I saw 2-3 days at full charge on google, but I thought I’d consult the hive mind. Honestly I’m thinking about getting a nicad battery or two for this thing until he’s older or trained on lipos. And it looks like this charger will do either a balanced charged (requires the extra connection) or an optionally balanced charge (will charge without the extra connection, but will do it balanced if it’s connected), I assume there’s basically no reason to ever NOT connect the balance connector and do a balanced charge? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Jun 9, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 03:37
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Bad Munki posted:How much of a spaz do I need to be about lipo batteries? I got the boy a car (I know this thread is airborne) for his birthday tomorrow, it’s takes a 5200mAh 3s, I’m charging it now, but it’s cool to let us sit for a day or 2? I saw 2-3 days at full charge on google, but I thought I’d consult the hive mind. It's fine to let it sit for a few days at full charge. Worst case you hurt the overall life of the battery. Just make sure you store it safely. However, yes, store these things properly because they really are dangerous. Especially RC Lipos which as far as I can tell have very little protection circuitry so you can draw huge currents from them (required for RC stuff). You may find that the RC car performs like poo poo with nicad batteries for this reason. And yes, always do a balanced charge if you can. The other option is just there in case you have a battery without a balance port. It's safer and your battery will live longer.
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Jun 9, 2020 11:04
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Splode posted:It's fine to let it sit for a few days at full charge. Worst case you hurt the overall life of the battery. Just make sure you store it safely. RC lipos have an integrated feedback mechanism that will alert you if you charge them improperly.
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Jun 9, 2020 14:57
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There's no hard line. Basically any usage of the battery degrades it, so it comes down to how much money/time you want to spend versus performance demands. The further above or below 3.8V per cell, the more it degrades over time. The faster you charge or discharge it, the more it degrades. Some charge is also lost over time, so if you fully charge then wait a couple days, it may be down to ~4.1V per cell. I think the main danger of fire is from crashes/physical damage and during charge/discharge.
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Jun 9, 2020 15:37
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I think I got the issues with my modded Tinyhawk resolved. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRLdbtEtePs
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Jun 9, 2020 15:40
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Tinyhawk II Freestyle report: its good Huge improvement over the original. Plenty of power but is smooth and controllable and will pull out of a dive instantly. It seems like there is no angle you can’t recover from. Camera is very good, vtx is very good. The tune out of the box is excellent, I had to screw around with the last one a lot but on this one I just set my rates and went. Camera angle is now adjustable and has plenty of range. Gets about 3.5 minutes from a 2S 450. Gripes: VTX antenna should be secured better; it can fall into the prop. The heatshrink on mine has been chewed up because of this. The SPI Rx range is still not good and I’m constantly getting low RSSI warnings but it has not failsafed so  I will probably just turn off telemetry. Does not have the power to take off from grass or turtle over in grass but I guess this can be expected of anything toothpick class. The 2x1s connector on the back is silly so I changed mine to an XT30 but I can see why they did it.Plenty of crashes and nothing broken yet. For the price, there is no reason not to buy one if you like this stuff at all.
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Jun 9, 2020 15:40
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insta posted:RC lipos have an integrated feedback mechanism that will alert you if you charge them improperly. EDIT: i own every Bionicle posted:For the price, there is no reason not to buy one if you like this stuff at all. CapnBry fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Jun 9, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 15:41
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insta posted:RC lipos have an integrated feedback mechanism that will alert you if you charge them improperly.
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Jun 9, 2020 15:42
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CapnBry posted:drat you! Don't tell me that. If you already have an original TH Freestyle, you can get the TBS Unify Nano 32 that goes to 500mw, a sled for it, and a runcam Turbo v.2 for under $50. E: Well drat. Here's hoping my FC doesn't poo poo the bed. Alternative pants fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Jun 9, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 18:29
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Alternative pants posted:If you already have an original TH Freestyle, you can get the TBS Unify Nano 32 that goes to 500mw, a sled for it, and a runcam Turbo v.2 for under $50. Which is exactly the setup I had before the FC died and I decided to get the THFS II instead of pouring more money into it. They both perform almost identically, with the Unify being slightly clearer.
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Jun 9, 2020 18:39
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i own every Bionicle posted:Finally did the maiden on this, after probably two hours of programming the transmitter (used the Taranis, I’ve only used it for simple stuff like quads in the past and done all my complex programming with Futaba, Hitec, or Airtronics). That looks really nice. I've got my Hawk 1M back in action finally. I'm still waiting on my Auri show up. The tracking says it was cleared to depart Russia on May 14th and thats the last I've heard. Did you set up your taranis manually do to launch and thermal modes etc, or use one of the prebuilt setups like SoarOTX. Since finding that, it's all I've used.
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Jun 10, 2020 15:41
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bullets cure cops posted:That looks really nice. I've got my Hawk 1M back in action finally. I'm still waiting on my Auri show up. The tracking says it was cleared to depart Russia on May 14th and thats the last I've heard. I tried to add one of the templates to my Taranis, I can’t remember what it was called. Whatever came up on RCG when searching for DLG Taranis setups. It refused to import through OpenTX companion and I had no luck figuring out why, and rather than update OpenTX and risk breaking compatibility with my Whoops I started following a guide to set it up. I lost patience at page 22 of 36 I think (the guide was unfinished too btw), and managed to figure out the rest of it myself. I got launch, zoom, thermal, speed, and cruise modes. I still have to add timers and telemetry warnings but really, I found it wasn’t too bad after getting through the initial learning curve. Had the servo tray pop loose in a hard landing, need to fix that
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Jun 10, 2020 16:18
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Bad Munki posted:How much of a spaz do I need to be about lipo batteries? I got the boy a car (I know this thread is airborne) for his birthday tomorrow, it’s takes a 5200mAh 3s, I’m charging it now, but it’s cool to let us sit for a day or 2? I saw 2-3 days at full charge on google, but I thought I’d consult the hive mind. For kids who may be charging unsupervised (even if they aren’t allowed to) I think it’s easier to sidestep this whole issue by just paying way more for a traxxas ID or similar charger and battery setup. Single plug, no cell count or charge rate or polarity concerns.
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Jun 11, 2020 14:49
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Alternative pants posted:If you already have an original TH Freestyle, you can get the TBS Unify Nano 32 that goes to 500mw, a sled for it, and a runcam Turbo v.2 for under $50.  Ambihelical Hexnut posted:For kids who may be charging unsupervised (even if they aren’t allowed to) I think it’s easier to sidestep this whole issue by just paying way more for a traxxas ID or similar charger and battery setup. Single plug, no cell count or charge rate or polarity concerns. CapnBry fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Jun 11, 2020 |
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Jun 11, 2020 17:51
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pixhawk saga part 9 I recently reinstalled windows 10 on my laptop from scratch. In theory if I plug the pixhawk in, in the device manager something ought to show up under COM ports. I've struggled with this in the past on windows 7 programming arduino devices etc I've manually tried adding COM ports via legacy hardware menu in device manager I've tried installing the... CF210 or whatever drivers No luck. I've spent probably an hour or more on this, looks like COM ports are still a problem in 2020 on windows, a lot of the same solutions, like above, those aren't working despite multiple reboots etc. Thoughts?
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Jun 12, 2020 13:13
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Data cable vs power only cable?
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Jun 12, 2020 14:12
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Hadlock posted:No luck. I've spent probably an hour or more on this, looks like COM ports are still a problem in 2020 on windows, a lot of the same solutions, like above, those aren't working despite multiple reboots etc. Thoughts?
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Jun 12, 2020 14:59
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Hadlock posted:pixhawk saga part 9 Have you installed QGroundcontrol or Missionplanner? That should take care of the drivers for you.
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Jun 12, 2020 18:34
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Corky Romanovsky posted:Data cable vs power only cable? Every time I find one of those motherfuckers it gets ripped in half by my bare hands.
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Jun 12, 2020 18:56
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The only solution.
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Jun 12, 2020 20:27
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Have you installed QGroundcontrol or Missionplanner? That should take care of the drivers for you. This is a virgin install of the latest version of missionplanner, which looks like it's v4.0.0 from last Sunday... might uninstall and roll back to 3.X I did click through it installing 3-4 sets of drivers It's not a power only cable, device manager's UI blips briefly when I plug it in, just doesn't create a COM port That usbdview sounds like a great diagnostic tool, I'll check that out Hadlock fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Jun 12, 2020 |
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Jun 12, 2020 22:17
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Do you have another machine you can try it on?. Is this a 2.4.8 unit? I haven't had drivers issues with Pixhawks in years..
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Jun 12, 2020 22:34
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So I ended up going with the Mavic 2 Zoom. I was looking at the Air 2 but the SDK hasn't been released. Since I might need a different program than the vendor option for the control, I want I went with the zoom as it has sensors on all sides. So the setup I have is connecting to my phone over wifi through Vysor, then setting the remote up on the porch. So there are some problems controlling things. I can only ascend using a waypoint mode, and can't turn or move laterally with tapfly, or land on my own if RTH is off target. Is there any solution to this similar to how the Mini has onscreen thumbsticks? Something I can click and drag some or arrows. I looked through any info I could find about things like Litchi or Airmap or other 3rd party stuff, but nothing looks to be what I am looking for. I'm thinking this might just mean the hobby just isn't something I can do. Spoke Lee fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Jun 13, 2020 |
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Jun 13, 2020 00:17
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Picking up my babyhawk R again after loving it up last year and putting it away in disgust. Anyone have any tips with adjusting pid/rates in betaflight so this thing isn't so holy poo poo fast input for a very much beginner? I have a vague idea of what they do but I'm not sure in a practical sense how I would want to adjust to just make everything slower.
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Jun 16, 2020 19:18
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Can you just limit the travel of all axes to like 30% of their full range?
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Jun 16, 2020 20:42
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Picking up my babyhawk R again after loving it up last year and putting it away in disgust. Just setting a throttle limit will do most of the work, adjusting your rates will reduce sensitivity, lowering any of the rate values will help but don't go too far as it'll be too sluggish. RC rate value is the most important value for overall sensitivity, and it's usually around 1. If you set them all to 0.9 it should move pretty slowly. RC expo gives you some exponential behaviour, so moving your stick to the end gives a lot movement. This is terrible for beginners who panic and over correct so turn it down or off (but you may want it back later if you ever want to do snap rolls). I highly recommend just trying a throttle limit first, as rates are something you get used to and learn, and if you change them there's a reasonable amount of relearning required. If you can master reasonable rates up front you'll get better faster.
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Jun 16, 2020 22:11
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Would that be done in betaflight or my radio? And where do I find that on whichever one it is? Edit: nevermind I got it A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Jun 16, 2020 |
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Jun 16, 2020 23:00
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Howdy folks. I'm looking to pick up a small camera drone for building survey purposes in the UK, that is to say surveying the condition of roofs etc, not land surveys. My minimum requirements are (I think): - 5-10min flight time - 20-30m range - live POV without direct LOS - on-board or wifi video recording, moderately wide FOV, good enough quality to see details up close, but I'm not filming commercial-quality footage - under 20kg (ideally under 250g but I assume that's not realistic) It would never be flown away from my property (unless doing a favour for a neighbour or whatever). Audio recording not required. Any off the cuff suggestions?
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Jun 18, 2020 10:57
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Jaded Burnout posted:Howdy folks. I'm looking to pick up a small camera drone for building survey purposes in the UK, that is to say surveying the condition of roofs etc, not land surveys. I'm just lurking in this thread from time to time so im pretty sure someone has a better suggestion but what about a Mavic Mini? Checks all the boxes on your list and weighs less than 250g. Shai-Hulud fucked around with this message at 11:11 on Jun 18, 2020 |
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Jun 18, 2020 11:09
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