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I just built my first quad and got it flying a few days ago. I have no RC experience so I'm not sure if the way it flies is supposed to be normal. I'm using a KK board running 4.7 in X configuration. It has a pretty stable liftoff, but it doesn't remain in a stationary hover for long. I'm assuming stationary hover requires more sensors than just gyros to accomplish, which is fine by me. The thing that bothers me the most is that when I try yawing my quad starts losing altitude very quickly. If anyone has experience with quads, is this supposed to happen? Am I supposed to compensate for altitude drops in yawing by goosing the throttle? My only guess is that the quad is way too heavy and the motors dont have enough juice to yaw+hover at the same time. I'm running 4x DT700 with 10x4.7 props with 1.3kg all up weight, and I seem to achieve liftoff at about 65% throttle.
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Apr 27, 2012 06:37
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That makes sense. I guess I didn't consider that the motor pair for yawing would slow down enough to make the quad lose a ton of altitude. A few things I need to do that I think might help is cut weight on the quad and limit the range of the yaw output on my transmitter from 0-100% to something more like 0-25% if I want to make it easier to yaw while maintaining a hover.
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Apr 27, 2012 09:00
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Ah okay, I've been piecing together information by digging through the rcgroups forums but I didn't catch that tip about reducing throws. I'll also go ahead and see if I can score some 12" props, but I'll probably have to order from overseas because I don't think any of the local stores carry the counter rotating ones. Fake edit: Do you have any suggestions on if I should go with lower or higher pitch on my props if I'm aiming for stability? yergacheffe fucked around with this message at 11:03 on Apr 27, 2012 |
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Apr 27, 2012 11:00
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ickna posted:I looked long and hard at that, but I've opted to build a KF flying wing out of foam instead. I already have experience cutting and shaping theatrical scenery out of foam, so I'm comfortable with the labor involved and already have a few techniques I want to try out in constructing it. I'm expecting to totally wreck my first couple of planes learning to fly so having something that I can easily fab will be a plus, too. Am I missing something here or is there a reason your shopping list has two ESCs in it?
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May 3, 2012 10:10
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If you have a hand power drill, couldn't you just shove the leg into a vice and just drill a hole for the shaft that way? I just don't see the need to use a drill press since accuracy isn't hugely critical.
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May 29, 2012 00:31
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Ah, I assumed you were going to drill it out with a bigger diameter than the motor shaft but I didn't realize how big the hole might be with respect to the strut's width. I guess it might be hard to compare, since you've changed both your frame from 650mm to 450mm and used a different flight controller, but how does flying with 1000kV motors feel compared to your old ~850kV motors? I've been rolling mostly with low kV (~700) since I'm looking for stability but I'd like to get thoughts on how it might be going to a higher kV if I ever bother making a sport quad. Also, for what it's worth, I'm using the KK board and my DT700 motors spool up at around 25% throttle, and hovers at around 60%. Did your old quad spool up with less throttle with multiwii?
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May 29, 2012 05:25
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CrazyLittle posted:Newer plush secs are based on STM and not atmega I thought it was Silabs, not STM? In any case, I think there is some thread on rcgroups about flashing the non Atmega based ESCs in the multirotor section.
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Aug 6, 2012 19:11
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Looking to get back into quads after rage quitting three years ago when my frame cracked midflight and killed the flight controller with it (it was a piece of poo poo KK board, back when that was hot) I'll be printing out this frame to replace the chinese knockoff DJI flamewheel 450 I used to have http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:261145 I like the design of the tubular arms for cable routing and how it resists flex/twist better than normal arms. It also looks pretty spacious for the extra FPV gear I'll want to load onto the quad. So I'm looking to buy new electronics and wow, prices have dropped a lot since. What's some good entry level gear to buy nowadays for a big FPV quad (12" props, 750kV motors)? I don't need a crazy long range setup here, I'll be mostly flying within LOS but FPV feels more natural to me because I'm a disgusting video game playing nerd. (I'm much better at the FPV mode in freerider than LOS) Here's some of the stuff I'm considering Flight controller: Anything's probably better than my KK board I used to have. CC3D was hot back then, but plagued with supply issues and the project looks defunct now? I don't think I need an all-in-one setup since I still have my ESCs but a board with FPV features like OSD with battery voltage would be nice. Or it might be cheaper to buy a basic FC and just slap a separate OSD module on? FPV TX/RX: The only stuff available back then was 900MHz, so I have old TX/RX with huge antennas. 5.8GHz equipment looks to have gotten a whole lot cheaper, so I'll be looking to upgrade to that to save on weight and be able to use clover/skew planar antennas. FPV goggles: Wow this stuff is really cheap now that fatshark isn't the only player in the market. I'm looking at Eachine's offerings but can't really tell the difference between them. The Googles One/Two looks neat but I don't think I need to pay the premium for HD when my TX won't even be an HD feed. I'm thinking about the VR-D2 since it offers diversity.
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Feb 25, 2017 22:19
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Noted on the 3d printed frame guys, thanks. If I'm doing anything that sounds idiotic/misguided please don't hesitate to tell me. I think I would've ragequitted even harder if I had to wait 6 days for a print and then it cracked on the first flight haha. The printed frame for my Eachine H8 worked pretty well, it must scale up with no problems right?  I'm definitely open to the idea of sizing down from 450mm to 250mm but I'm not sure how well my 750kV motors will perform. Any suggestions for websites to buy frames from or recommendations for a particular frame? The options back then used to be HobbyKing/Chinese AliExpress-likes/one-off websites that would sell something for two months then disappear because of supply issues or whatever. I'll also be trolling RCgroups since the market's probably way bigger now. My Rhythmic Crotch posted:Anyway, I have two of these: http://www.readytoflyquads.com/flip-32-f4-omnibus-v2-pro They are pretty cool. LC filter for good video quality, OSD directly attached to CPU, current sensor, SD card, you really can't go wrong. If you are into any GPS-related flight modes, there's a firmware stack called iNav which is very oriented towards that. Otherwise you can run Betaflight, etc on it. This FC looks neat! There's a lot of integrated features that'll really tidy up my build and it's cool that I can run other STM32 firmware on it if I want to try that out in the future. Sadly, the Taranis didn't exist back when I started so I have a Turnigy 9X v2 with er9x flashed on it. I'd probably have to do some telemetry mods to make it work. If I get back into this hobby though, I'll probably try to sell it and put the money towards a Taranis.
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Feb 25, 2017 23:59
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So after looking over all the new FCs I've missed out on, I realized I'd have to upgrade my 9x's TX/RX modules with something that supports PPM/SBUS output. I think buying a DHT module + RX would've cost about $50, plus the time involved doing the telemetry hardware hack (not strictly required, but hey if I paid for it I might as well use it). Instead, I think I scored a pretty good deal on ebay for an unused Taranis for $131 shipped. I could flip the 9x for about $70 locally, the value add being that I've installed a USB port for easy er9x upgrades, include two extra AHFDS2 receivers, a LiPo battery, and you get it immediately instead of waiting for the slowboat from China. If I end up rage quitting the hobby again, I could probably flip the Taranis for what I paid. Please reassure me of my poor purchasing decisions, goons.  (yes I know the smart thing to do would've been to buy a PPM encoder for like five bucks)
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Feb 28, 2017 03:39
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Martytoof posted:Speaking of sim, it's been probably two years since I touched my drones and I want to get my flight legs back under me before I take my gizmos out into the real world. Two questions: 1. The t9x has an issue where if you have a radio module plugged in (even if it's the stock module that's hardwired to the antenna), no signal will come out of the trainer port. You can either unplug the radio module, or see if you can change the protocol in your software to "PPMSIM" (not PPM). 2. Haven't had experience using one of those before. A long time ago, I found some software solution that involved me plugging my radio's trainer port to my computer's microphone port, which then converted that signal into inputs on a virtual gamepad I could use in sims. That dongle just seems like a hardware version of what I was using, so in theory it should work I guess?
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Jun 5, 2019 05:51
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I’m just impatient and the snowstorms in the Midwest mean the battery was supposed to be here yesterday but isn’t yet. That's too bad, I only have experience with betaflight stuff but the USB port can usually power the flight controller and let you futz with binding it to a transmitter and checking its settings/sensors. You could always try wiring 12V directly to the contacts and holding it in place with some tape to see if you can get signs of life.
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Feb 10, 2020 17:49
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Liftoff is having a free weekend coming up, would highly recommend people try it out if you're new to flying. Having a TX that runs OpenTX would be best so you can easily use it as a controller, but you can also get away with using whatever dual stick gamepad you have sitting around. Great for building up some basic skills without having to constantly walk over to your drone and flip it when you crash it.
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Feb 11, 2020 21:52
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Splode posted:I've got velocidrone, is there any reason to switch? I have no experience with velocidrone so I can't comment. It's a free weekend so no reason not to try it, and I'd love to hear thoughts on it from someone who's tried both!
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Feb 12, 2020 02:44
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Into the rabbit hole you go!! How's the latency on the fpv feed to your phone? I tried dicking around on my friend's dji spark but it was unusably bad, like 2-3s delay.
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Feb 13, 2020 00:28
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The radiomaster TX16S just came out within the last month and it's been pretty hyped so I'd expect shortages for a while. To give a little more information about what's going on in the black box that is the RC radio controller (we'll call it transmitter from now on, that's the official rc nerd term): The modern transmitter basically has two main parts to it: 1. A computer that monitors the the position of the switches and gimbals, forms it into signal that then gets sent to... 2. A radio module that wirelessly sends the signal out to your receiver. This radio module can be internal/hard-wired or come out as a standalone module that can be swapped. Spektrum tends to hard-wire their stuff (cynic in me says for vendor lock-in reasons) and lots of newer transmitters coming out tend to have an external swappable module so you can use different radio links. So since this is hobby stuff, there's not really any "standard" that vendors adhere to. The good news is that motors and servos basically want a PWM signal in the end, which is very simple to make and more or less universal. The bad thing is that, every part before that in the chain is a mess of competing vendor protocols that aren't compatible with each other. So your control link looks something like this: Radio (switches/gimbals) -> Radio wireless module (nonstandard protocol that goes over the air) -> Receiver on boat/car/plane (converts the nonstandard protocol into PWM) -> Servos/motors You mentioned controlling servos with bluetooth before, is there any particular reason you don't want to go the same route again for the boat? Two servos is a simple enough application you could hack together with whatever you had before. You'd basically replace the entire chain of stuff before servos/motors with your bluetooth link here. Oh right, one more thing to add as an FYI: how a flight controller like the pixhawk plays into the radio link. It inserts itself in between the receiver and servos/motors: Radio -> Radio wireless module -> Receiver -> pixhawk -> servos/motors It's unclear to me what you're trying to do in your application so I don't know if you actually need a pixhawk or if you were just asking out of curiousity. If you're just trying to manually control a sailboat, you don't need one. If you want to do autopilot/GPS magic sort of stuff, then yeah you need one. yergacheffe fucked around with this message at 22:10 on May 24, 2020 |
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May 24, 2020 22:01
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I knew somebody was gonna give me a  reply!!! I just wanted to keep it high level 
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May 24, 2020 22:15
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Seconding playing on sims, especially if you can hook up your radio to your pc and use it as a controller. Playing a few hours on sims when I started out really helped me get my bearings. There's no worrying about batteries and if you crash you just hit a button and restart instantly. In other words, there's no downtime and you can iterate faster. I use Liftoff but I think other options like DRL or Velocidrone are available?
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Jun 27, 2020 01:53
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Kuvo posted:the batteries for my transmitter finally came in so ive been messing around in velocidrone and have two questions. first, is horizon mode a thing i can use on the quad im building? of the three modes i had the best results with it but have only heard of quads flying in angle and rate. secondly, should i even bother practicing in angle/horizon? it seems the skills/muscle memory learned in angle/horizon mode dont easily transfer to rate as i had to constantly think about releveling the drone. Assuming you're building a quad with betaflight, there is support for horizon mode. However, horizon mode is just angle mode but without the hard limit on how far you can tilt the quad in any direction. Thus horizon will allow you to roll/flip. Personally, I find it awkward to use since it tries to be a compromise between angle/rate but doesn't really pull it off well. I'd suggest just starting out learning in angle mode to get an understanding of basic controls, but move to rate as soon as possible. You shouldn't really be worrying about releveling the drone and instead just get used to always moving forward. Assuming you're flying FPV, this is why the cameras are mounted at an angle. The angle is adjusted such that when you pitch forward, your camera will then be level with the ground. You can always adjust this camera angle to be lower or higher depending on how fast you want the quad to be moving forward. Starting with a lower angle will move more slowly and is more suitable for beginners. No experience with Velocidrone but Liftoff has a setting for camera angle. But yeah, learn rate. The simulators are like a hyperbolic time chamber and you'll learn 10x faster when you can crash with impunity and not have to go pick up your quad off the field/repair it when you crash.
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Jun 1, 2021 22:55
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