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I've been looking into a Hubsan X4 after owning one of those mini tiny micro quads, but in all honesty I'd like a little project and a lot more power. Something that could have better motors added to it down the line to maybe carry GoPro+3axis gimbal, but that's only the wishlist. For now I just want to build and fly it. I see lots of kits on hobbyking but they all seem geared towards mid to full-sized quads. Is there a kit available that is roughly hubsan X4-sized or a bit larger? http://www.quadrysteria.com/store/p60/Nemesis_240_Mini_Quadcopter.html I really like this frame but i know nothing about anything. Another thing, 2 of the motors on my lil nano quad have started making a clicking noise when I turn the prop, I think this means I burned them out because those two don't rotate as freely anymore, and sort of "land" at the same orientation every time when spun freely. These are those 7x15 tiny coreless motors. I've tried replacing them with motors of the same size salvaged from other electronics but none of the replacements have the power that the originals do. I was wondering if I just replaced all 4 motors at once so at least the power output is equal, can I get away with turning "CW" motors into "CCW" by reversing the motor wires? These arent brushless or anything fancy, just garbage bog standard coreless mini motors. I know it can work technically, but will it rotate with the same power in reverse? My guess is no, and they sell CW/CCW motors for a reason, but the skeptic inside me wonders...
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# ¿ Jan 8, 2015 00:24 |
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2024 04:57 |
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Ok double post but:Nerobro posted:I'm pretty proud of this: Astronaut Jones posted:Started getting into quads a couple of months ago, figured I'd show off some of the family. The 250 is a Strider I just finished building and have barely had time to maiden. These types of quads is what I'd like to take a stab at. Little ones, but with brushless motors and bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Jan 8, 2015 |
# ¿ Jan 8, 2015 00:51 |
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Also the weight of an external recorder to get uncompressed video out of the gopro. Maybe video is a bit much to hope for. Even if I built a little Nemesis 240 based quad or one of these guys: with some low power motors to learn on right now, is there no type of motor+battery combo I could add that would get it flying a gopro+gimbal if I wanted to spend the money in the future? Is it that the props required to lift the weight would be too large for the frame, or is it too small to be stable carrying that weight? Where's the bottleneck there? Those DJI's look sort of boring, but I know they're amazing kits if the youtube videos are anything to go by. I was hoping to find a parts company that sold all-in-one sort of quad kits for beginners to build themselves. I guess that's sort of what the frame kits on Hobby King are? You just add the motors and controllers? Do you need a GPS on it if you arent planning on programming flights? Are they required for stability? bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Jan 8, 2015 |
# ¿ Jan 8, 2015 02:56 |
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Zigmoose posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsHMjWORFvI drat, I know the wide angle exaggerates it but that was hilariously close I posted this above but I think it got overlooked by my 250 frame kit questions. quote:Another thing, 2 of the motors on my lil nano quad have started making a clicking noise when I turn the prop, I think this means I burned them out because those two don't rotate as freely anymore, and sort of "land" at the same orientation every time when spun freely. These are those 7x15 tiny coreless motors. I've tried replacing them with motors of the same size salvaged from other electronics but none of the replacements have the power that the originals do. I was wondering if I just replaced all 4 motors at once so at least the power output is equal, can I get away with turning "CW" motors into "CCW" by reversing the motor wires? These arent brushless or anything fancy, just garbage bog standard coreless mini motors. I know it can work technically, but will it rotate with the same power in reverse? My guess is no, and they sell CW/CCW motors for a reason, but the skeptic inside me wonders... I was wondering if anybody had any insight into the bolded part. I'm talking about these little guys: bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Jan 9, 2015 |
# ¿ Jan 9, 2015 02:14 |
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Mister Sinewave posted:
Along these lines, is there a way to use an Occulus Rift or similar headset to control a camera gimbal? So it turns and tilts the same way my head is?
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# ¿ Jan 16, 2015 18:07 |
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Mister Sinewave posted:
Here's a video from November of a guy using this to control a Pan/Tilt servo camera mount. It involves connecting the headset to the 'trainer' port and setting up 2 Aux inputs to the servos. Is this a standard use of a trainer port? I assumed the Trainer port was like a music keyboard's MIDI out, so you could control PC flight sims using your real RC controller. Doesn't seem terribly hard but I'm making that assumption after watching a single video.
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# ¿ Jan 16, 2015 23:22 |
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I bought a dumb thing yesterday butI'm really happy with it. The Litehawk High Roller: Usually costs something ridiculous like $90, but it was on sale for $60 so I had to. I spent a few hours loving THIS THING UP ramming it into walls, cutting throttle and letting it hit the ground from ceiling height, and the cage just bounces. Not even a little knick on the blades. It's like a bubble boy quadcopter. But I was curious how well it would perform without the cage so I managed to pull it off without permanently breaking anything and attached some skids from an old helicopter. The black bar is a little carbon rod that attaches to the cage, I didn't want to remove it since it is centred perfectly right now and adds a tiny bit of bump protection. It performs really well inside but I have nothing to compare it to. It's a nice size, not a nano but not a larger cheap quad either. Like a mid-sized cheap quad. Looking into buying a few 300mah batteries and a group charger so I can fly it a bit longer. Litehawk is a pretty cool company too, they sell all the replacement parts and have teardown diagrams on their website for all their models. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Jan 20, 2015 |
# ¿ Jan 20, 2015 18:44 |
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Ok, cheap quad update: It can carry 5 Canadian nickels and still maintain good lift and maneuverability. 6 nickels and it starts to lift sluggishly, but will still lift. 7-10 and it just hovers an inch above ground. checking wikipedia a Cdn nickel is 3.95 grams, so I can hold roughly 19-20 grams max before it becomes unflyable. I could probably lift a tiny bit more if I took off the skids and foamcore spacer. I think it could take a higher capacity battery like this 500mah: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=66925 from what I can gather with basic research the 300mah currently powering the quad weighs 7-8g so subtract that from the battery weight in the links and the new battery should add 4-5g. Well within the 20g I have tested. After that the next bit of weight added would be this: http://www.fpvhobby.com/220-rtf-58ghz-1-gram-camera-combo-set.html and maybe this: http://www.fpvhobby.com/231-8-ghz-micro-cl-antenna-.html so ~5.5 - 6g(4.8g camera/tx + .08g antenna) 6g battery + 6g fpv setup means I should have 8g of play room left before it can't lift off anymore. The gaudy LEDs in the top canopy aren't soldered directly to the board they have a connector, so the idea is to adapt that to power the camera+tx, and not use the top LEDs anymore. That's why I wanted to add the 500mah battery. Any unforseen issues I might run into here? Anything I missed that might add weight? I just want to stream video to a little screen I am going to bolt to my controller. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Jan 21, 2015 |
# ¿ Jan 21, 2015 18:37 |
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Thanks guys, thats a confidence booster. I had an embarrassing realization after watching a youtube video that explained Lipos today. Seems so obvious now. 3.7v = 1s 7.4v = 2s 11.1v = 3s 14.8v = 4s etc. you're just adding 3.7v cells on top of other 3.7v cells. I was concerned about accidentally buying a 2 cell 3.7v battery but it seems that isn't really possible these days. So going by that logic as long as the quad can handle the weight will any 3.7v battery do the trick? I can't imagine a little brushed quad like this will be hampered by a poor discharge rate, but I am new to this so maybe it can be EDIT: small update, tested the LED plug and it looks like I am good to use it to power the FPV transmitter/camera. EDIT2: Anybody seen this yet? http://www.engadget.com/2015/01/22/drone-drug-mule-us-mexico/ A hexcopter crashes into a Mexican Supermarket near the California border with 6lbs of meth strapped to it. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Jan 22, 2015 |
# ¿ Jan 22, 2015 00:17 |
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Nooooooooo the gimbal is life.
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# ¿ Jan 26, 2015 19:44 |
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Erwin posted:So I checked this inside because I like to live on the edge (in a large room, just pushed the throttle until it almost took off). Looks like it takes off at about 60% throttle Does that mean I need larger props? Motors are 980kV. edit: 9 inch props currently. Aren't 9 inch props huge? Maybe your motors aren't strong enough to spin them properly, or aren't getting enough current to spin them properly.
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# ¿ Jan 27, 2015 01:16 |
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PREYING MANTITS posted:I'm throwing together a waterproof/resistant quad dedicated to flying over and possibly down onto the surface of bodies of water (ie: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTlwYwi-Uys) but I'm trying to keep the costs relatively minimal. Looking at frames I saw that game of drones "Hiro" frame they use in the video and it seems to do what I want for $150. Was just curious if anyone here has had any experience with that frame or some similar setup they might recommend? I wish I had posted the video now but I saw a video of what looked like a chinese quad flying INTO the water, completely submerging his props and motors, RUNNING THE MOTORS UNDER WATER to roll the quad back over, then takes off from the water. Whatever quad he was using was godly. EDIT: found it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnrmuntLygE and not chinese, seems to be something called a Mariner quad bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Jan 27, 2015 |
# ¿ Jan 27, 2015 07:16 |
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Yeah apparently the brushless motors act as sort of a natural pump and keep water out of them? or magic? probably magic. I still don't understand how that waterproofing spray works on mechanical parts but that is also magic I assume.
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2015 00:41 |
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geez, that is very stable. the first few seconds look like tripod footage. Can you get the gimbal movement to have some sort of dampening? or exponential ramp up so the moves don't happen so instantly?
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# ¿ Jan 30, 2015 05:23 |
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DreadLlama posted:Ok I was planning to buy an RTF kit off amazon but now I must build this Polish flying contraption machine. I will refrain from calling it a Zeppelin out of respect. Whatever you do, just remember to pre-puncture your lipos. Maybe assign a servo to an aux channel that can slice into the cells while you're midair?
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# ¿ Jan 31, 2015 17:06 |
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quick, why shouldn't I impulse buy this? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42503__Turnigy_Micro_Quad_V3_PNP_ARF_Includes_KK2_1_LCD_Flight_Control_Board.html
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# ¿ Feb 2, 2015 06:12 |
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Nerobro posted:It's a pile of crap parts, with a becoming dated flight controller. I'm going to buy one. :-) Is the KK2.1 really dated? I thought it was the best one. What about a Super-X? It uses one of those Multiwii controllers. I was almost ready to pull the trigger on one of these until I saw that Turnigy deal http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__58128__Super_X_Brushless_125mm_Micro_Quad_Copter_With_MWC_Flight_Controller_BNF_KIT_.html
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# ¿ Feb 2, 2015 19:29 |
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Nerobro posted:"becoming dated" It's not the choice of people who fly fast. it's not the choice of people who want to fly aerial video or photography. It's also big and relatively heavy. It's only real advantage is not needing a PC to re-program it. It is not the best flight controller. Cool, it sounds like the Multiwii based controller will give me more options down the line. I just want to make a little FPV platform. I see people using some sort of shaft extender instead of a 2nd set of motors to create an 8 prop quad. Obviously this is more work for the engines and ESC but does it also provide more lift, or stability?
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# ¿ Feb 2, 2015 19:59 |
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Nerobro posted:Where have you seen that? yes, it will get you more lift. You'll also get less stability. And your efficiency goes down. Most prop losses are at the tips. The more tips you have, the more you're "giving up" to those losses. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8c-3ekccx6U EDIT: I just ordered the MultiWii based Hobby-King Super-X instead of the KK2.1 based Turnigy . Looks like an easy way to get into/learn about a brushless setup and I can still fly it indoors. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Feb 3, 2015 |
# ¿ Feb 2, 2015 23:57 |
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So what is the technical term for that double prop adapter I posted on the last page? prop doubler? shaft extender? bad idea? I notice some motors bolt directly to the quad arms, and some use those for a stand-offs but do not extend the shaft through the arm for another set of props. But why? VVV EDIT: Collet Mount, thanks! bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Feb 3, 2015 |
# ¿ Feb 3, 2015 20:34 |
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Laserface posted:like 4 pages ago I complained about my KK being a heap of poo poo and y'all was like 'nah bro its fine just update it!' My ignorance reveals truth I want my stupid Super-X to get here NOWWWWWWW. I did something else dumb, I just blindly bought the kit without even owning a transmitter. Dumb questions to follow: The SuperX is DSM2, whatever that means. Will this cheap transmitter work?: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9042__Hobby_King_2_4Ghz_6Ch_Tx_Rx_V2_Mode_2_.html Does something like this clip into the transmitter like an N64 rumble pack making the cheap transmitter DSM2 compatible?? http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24656__OrangeRX_DSMX_DSM2_Compatible_2_4Ghz_Transmitter_Module_JR_Turnigy_compatible_.html Or do I need to buy a more expensive transmitter that is already DSM2 compatible? http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__48926__OrangeRx_T_SIX_2_4GHz_DSM2_Comp_6CH_Programmable_Transmitter_w_10_Model_Memory_Mode_2_.html Ideally I'd like something like this which is cheap and has an LCD I don't know what I would use the LCD for yet, but maybe battery levels and ESC monitoring? http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__62710__Turnigy_TGY_i6_AFHDS_Transmitter_and_6CH_Receiver_Mode_2_.html Basically, what IS DSM2 and are all transmitters capable of it, or do I need a special kind?
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2015 00:33 |
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Nerobro posted:Spend the $60, get the OrangeTX. Done! That Super X is awesome, did you 3d print the camera mount? EDIT: Sheesh my Super-X arrived ALREADY. I had ordered some 500mah lipos a few weeks ago and assumed it was the package that had arrived, but nope! lil carbon bits and electronics. I thought they forgot to include the motors but it turns out they are just comically tiny. EDIT2: aaaand one of the micro screw holes on one of my motors is filled with epoxy. good. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Feb 6, 2015 |
# ¿ Feb 5, 2015 04:22 |
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Astronaut Jones posted:Yeah, I had a coworker who has a Ultimakr print out the landing gear and camera mount for me. Cool I would like to print one of those too. So It is delivered and built, all the software is installed and ready to go, but my transmitter is in the mail. Can I plug the multiwii into USB and do the initial setup without a transmitter? I just want to make sure my motors are moving in the right direction and whatever else it says to do in the wiki. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Feb 6, 2015 |
# ¿ Feb 6, 2015 06:07 |
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I spent some time today trying to come up with a small footprint gopro+gimbal platform. I was hoping to make it with 3.5 or 4 inch props, but good ones aren't easy to find. I had to move up to easy to find 5 inch props but it made the entire thing a lot bigger. Does anybody know a source of high torque smaller props? Had to make it a weird stretch Armstrong shape so the gopro can freely rotate, but I think it will work. I'd like to try 3D printing the frame. Maybe I could also buy a sheet of carbon fiber and have it cut on a router? is it hard to cut? I won't be making this anytime soon so how does the design look? Blue = batteries Orange = motors Yellow = ESCs Green = flight controller Light Green = gimbal controller Red = prop boundary It used to be a lot smaller though, still fit the same amount of batteries:( bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Feb 8, 2015 |
# ¿ Feb 8, 2015 09:06 |
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MrYenko posted:Particularly animals whose fear response is to ram the poo poo out of the thing that's scaring them with their entire body mass.
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2015 16:53 |
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MrYenko posted:I've seen those videos. Extremely cool, but doesn't have quite the same impact () as 3500lbs of pissed off Rhino. I'd like to see a gopro buzz by one of those eagles that can pluck goats off cliffsides. Updated hex frame. GoPro is out, I am now targeting a 335gram Black Magic Pocket Cinema Camera. Upgraded to 6030 props, looking at these motors. According to a guy in the comments a 6" prop on that motor gives about 220g of thrust x 6 would be ~1.3kg of lift when using 2s batteries, but I could go up to 3s for just over 2kg thrust(340gx6). Do these numbers make sense? That motor seems really small. My last version covered nearly 50% of the mid props, this allows more airflow. I think If I were to make this I would cut the shapes from carbon fiber plates as suggested. I've cut the arms and body into sections that fasten together with bolts. I'd like to see this thing in the air but I'm a long ways away from that so if it is a stupid design feel free to pile on now. Another thought: Are there flight controllers that have support for brushless gimbals built into the board? 4-6 connections for motors, then 2-3 more connections for the gimbal motors? My thinking is that since brushless gimbals use their own set of sensors to determine when it is in motion, why not get the sensor information straight from the board that is controlling the motors to keep the craft level? Just inverse the frame angle and send that to the gimbal motors. Is there a flight controller that does this? A MultiWii Pro says it has Servo outs for camera pitch+roll but that sounds like it is just for manually rotating the gimbal, not automatically countering the frame movement. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Feb 9, 2015 |
# ¿ Feb 9, 2015 17:48 |
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helno posted:The issues with a flight controller driving a brushless gimbal is that the flight controller lacks the correct type of output to drive the gimbal motors. What forumla are you using to discover the X% power? That motor is capable of 14A(163W) continuous and also lists a 6x2 prop giving 600grams thrust at 10A (111W). Does it do this at 50%? or much higher?
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2015 23:35 |
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Not very helpful for your case, but I have never seen 5.8ghz FPV video that isn't terribly broken up like that. I don't understand how it became the go-to frequency. 900mhz and 1.2ghz seem to work way better with much less video distortion. Why is 5.8 so popular?
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# ¿ Feb 13, 2015 21:11 |
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Do any of you have a Mobius actioncam? the one with 3 buttons on top, not 2. I wanted to know the length, width and height of the board inside(just the board not the camera module), without the casing, as well as the width and depth of the camera module connected to the board(to get the height I think you'd have to pop out the module so maybe dont do that) Google images has been no help everybody just measures the outer case. I want to stick 2 of them in a printed case and make a cheap 3D camera.
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# ¿ Feb 14, 2015 02:20 |
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DreadLlama posted:Thank you for replying, first off. I appreciate that citizens of the United States are very concerned with the new proposed FAA regulations and said have come to dominate recent discussions. So, thank you. I think FPV setups require you to have a clear line of transmission between your tx and rx. Trees and phone poles won't give you a lot of trouble, but the wall of a building might. Do you NEED FPV? If you own the land can you not use a flight controller with a GPS and just program it to fly autonomously around your property taking photos/videos? Or are there people potentially underneath? helno posted:You need a nice big glider with a camera that points down. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Feb 17, 2015 |
# ¿ Feb 17, 2015 03:03 |
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After a few hours of screwing with it spread out over 2 days I finally got my little Super-X to fly smoothly. I was a little depressed when I couldn't immediately get it working. I didn't even know how to bind the thing to my Orange T-six(You turn on the T-six while holding the trainer switch) since all the tutorials for the thing use a Spektrum Tx. After that I couldn't get the motors to arm even though the board said it was bound to the tx. Through a few rounds of changing numbers and writing to the multiwii I discovered I could arm the motors by assigning ARM to Aux5, throwing the switch, then power-cycling the transmitter. It wasn't the switch that did it, it was a combination of that and turning the tx on and off again really quickly that got the motors spinning. At that point I could fly it, but it was a mess. It would immediately pull to the back right if I throttled up slowly, so I had to really quickly throw it up into the air while trying and not hit my ceiling. Once it was up it responded to my controls super slowly and drifted really bad. Anyways I got home today after reading up on it at work and got my Tx throttle trimmed to slightly more than 1900 and changed the MINTHROTTLE MAXTHROTTLE MINCOMMAND MINCHECK MAXCHECK numbers to ones I pulled from 60 pages of RCGroups forum posts. Now the motors arm perfectly and it controls super smoothly. I need some foam earplugs for the feet though, it is making some rough landings. I also buuuutchered the magnometer calibration because I tried to do it with the super short FTDI tool cable and the props still on. So far I haven't used headless mode though. Barometer mode sort of works when I tried it low to the ground, but when I tried it at about 5 feet up it just descended so I have to play with that a bit more. Seems like a slowly descend to floor mode. EDIT: Already broke a leg, replaced all of them with earplugs. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Mar 1, 2015 |
# ¿ Feb 28, 2015 04:54 |
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Alright I crashed this thing and now it's acting weird, any Multiwii guys I could use your insight: It was flying perfectly, I hit throttle too hard, it smacked the ceiling, then hit the tile. After a hard crash like this I usually have to push the motor shafts back into position which I did this time. When I went to start the quad back up again the back left motor would not spin, and even at full throttle there wasn't enough power from the remaining motors to even budge it on the floor. I thought I damaged an ESC but then I remembered I could plug the board into my PC and fiddle with the TX to see values change. Doing so I can see now that at full throttle my motors are doing this: When before the crash they would all power up equally. Now I can see that full throttle is only putting the front left motor at full, Front R and Rear L are at ~1600 and Read R is at 1400. Is is Rear L that will not spin even though the GUI says it should be receiving a value of 1614 at full throttle. What did I do here? I am confused. The motor itself appears undamaged. I can spin it freely and there is no grinding noise or any sort of resistance other than the magnets. EDIT: Okay none of that information above means anything because the throttle changes based on how the quad is angled. In the mean time I've re-assigned the ESC output from the Rear L to the 5th and 6th ESC output connectors, and re-calibrated the ESC's but the Rear L motor won't budge like the other 3 when it does the test. I guess the plan is to swap this ESC with another arm's ESC and see if that one fails to spin now. EDIT2: Swapped the ESC with another one and the other motor spins fine, so I guess my Rear R motor is hosed, not the ESC. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Mar 2, 2015 |
# ¿ Mar 1, 2015 23:29 |
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I really want to buy this FPV Plane: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__38072__HobbyKing_174_8482_Go_Discover_FPV_Plane_EPO_1600mm_PNF_.html I have no idea how to fly one, and there is nowhere in my city that I could fly it.
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# ¿ Mar 4, 2015 19:45 |
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Major structural failure on my lovely radio shack quad yesterday. It wasn't even a hard crash but it broke the center part of the frame in 3 places making every single arm wobbly. It was actually kind of funny, I've ran this thing into the ground from like 30 feet and it just bounced, but my paper and balsa wood room divider was just too much for it. So I went to the dollar store and did arts and crafts today. Popsicle sticks, zipties, hot glue and an elastic. The frame is heavier now but as a result I can actually keep the thing in a hover. It was super jumpy before.
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# ¿ Mar 9, 2015 07:06 |
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I got both the 1.2GHz transmitter/recievers I ordered yesterday. The TX itself is pretty light but then the antenna weighs just as much as the TX. I'll have to look into more lightweight solutions like cheap router antennas. Next step is to design a lightweight headset that will house 2 of these 2.5" diagonal LCD displays, one per eye. They're only 320x240 but that's okay for now. And the plan is to house the recievers in some sort of fisherman bag with lots of pockets I can hang off my shoulder and fit a 12v battery into. A purse, if you will. The Stereo Mobius case is all designed and sent off to the 3D printers, will cost me $70 which is a bit more than Shapeways would charge($45) but it's being done locally and will be done by Thursday instead of 3+ weeks. There are mount holes on the other side for a hollow shaft gimbal motor so I can run power and video out up the gimbal arms to the quad frame. I might power the cameras from the gimbal controller if it has a spot for ~3.7v out bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Mar 10, 2015 |
# ¿ Mar 10, 2015 18:56 |
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Loving Africa Chaps posted:Where did you get those displays? looking for something similar for another project http://www.adafruit.com/products/912 Please dont buy 9 of them. heres a 1.5" http://www.adafruit.com/products/910 bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Mar 10, 2015 |
# ¿ Mar 10, 2015 19:02 |
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Mister Sinewave posted:I have flown with my Fatshark goggles only once and liked the immersion, hated the lack of comfort. Some of it is unavoidable -- for example I wear glasses (remove them for the goggles but need them on hand for you know, everything else) but I also wear hearing aids in both ears which gets in the way of any kind of skull strap and junk. That looks a hell of a lot better than the guy who made his FPV goggles out of a welders mask. Cool rig.
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2015 21:33 |
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Mister Sinewave posted:Neat, thanks for the link. I would ditch my hearing aids more readily and willingly than I would my glasses, let me tell you. I think a lot of people would mute their multirotor engines if they could. It's a pretty exclusive feature.
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2015 23:33 |
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A Yolo Wizard posted:welder mounted is cool as hell Is that a 1.2ghz? Looks like we bought the same kit. My Rx is about that size but with stock antennas.
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 01:30 |
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2024 04:57 |
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Sort of obvious but a cool fact for DIY guys: I was pulling apart a DVDR/W drive for the rack and pinion inside and it turns out the entire laser carriage is set up on those rubber ball isolation mounts. I love opening stuff up and finding more useful things than you anticipated. also it turns out the laser carriage uses a worm screw to move the drive tray uses a rack and pinion but it is way larger than I want. EDIT: Holy poo poo this thing is small, just came from the 3D printer: That's a AA battery for scale. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Mar 11, 2015 |
# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 21:40 |