|
I've decided to bite the bullet and get an X100V, planning to grab this filter for bad weather times. My local camera place says they're doing trade-ins but I'm not optimistic about how much they'll give me given it seems like I could get $700-750 easy for my F on ebay [KEH quoted $550]. I tried to give you money for lenses, Fujifilm, but it was not to be.
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2021 17:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 03:35 |
|
|
I love my X100v. It's my little screw around camera that I (try) to take everywhere with me. It's super nice. I'm still trying out the different film simulations and blue chrome and grain stuff. Really fun.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2021 03:32
|
|
|
Yeast posted:I love my X100v. How are it's video capabilities? I loved the previous X100's stills quality but the video function seemed like an afterthought.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2021 16:26
|
|
|
My original plan was to sell my F and move to an interchangeable lens system but the fact that none of Fuji's smaller cameras are weather sealed and the other improvements like the tilt screen and better EVF means I'm going for it. I've literally never done video on my X100F, I'd probably just reach for my phone because there would be a much lower chance of screwing it up.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2021 17:52
|
|
|
qirex posted:I've decided to bite the bullet and get an X100V, planning to grab this filter for bad weather times. My local camera place says they're doing trade-ins but I'm not optimistic about how much they'll give me given it seems like I could get $700-750 easy for my F on ebay [KEH quoted $550]. Wait that filter gives some weather sealing to the 100f?
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2021 17:58
|
|
|
GATOS Y VATOS posted:Wait that filter gives some weather sealing to the 100f? No, just the V.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2021 18:03
|
|
|
Ah well. Yeah I don't have the kind of money to upgrade my F to the V so that was worth a shot. My XT3 has weather sealing but I enjoy my X100F's compact nature for just taking out and around.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2021 18:16
|
|
|
Adding a front filter to the older cameras still seals off the moving front element and provides some degree of weather sealing. The x100v just has some level of weather sealing on the rest of the camera, except the front of the lens. There are degrees to weather sealing, most bodies aren't rated. If your needs are shooting at the beach or a stroll on a rainy day, a filter and a bag is probably more than adequate.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2021 19:19
|
|
|
melon cat posted:How are it's video capabilities? I loved the previous X100's stills quality but the video function seemed like an afterthought. I must confess, I've literally not used them - if I'm going to video something I'd grab the 4k stabilised HDR dolby shooting thing out of my pocket 
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2021 12:04
|
|
|
According to reviews, the video capabilities are a significant step up with the V, but the lack of stabilization could be a real problem, unless you're using a tripod or a gimbal or something. Nice, clean 4K footage, and you can use a flat color profile for easy grading.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2021 15:22
|
|
|
I find myself enamored with the XE4 and that new pancake. The XPro 1 I got from a pawn shop a while back is agreeable enough but chunky vs my G95, and neither is really as small as I’d like. How does Fuji pricing work? Is the pre-order discounted at all? When do new models sell for less than msrp?
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2021 21:51
|
|
|
wolfs posted:I find myself enamored with the XE4 and that new pancake. The XPro 1 I got from a pawn shop a while back is agreeable enough but chunky vs my G95, and neither is really as small as I’d like. From what I've seen stuff rarely goes on sale in the first year, they might throw in a free accessory like a strap or case before actually discounting it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2021 21:56
|
|
|
I'm not sure what kind of deal you get on new stuff, you can try greentoe. Normally camera retailers can't offer discounts themselves (so you get stuff like junk bundles and b&h weird credit card tax thing instead), but they can sell it to you for a discounted price if you place an offer they are willing to accept.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2021 22:24
|
|
|
Man, I was seriously considering the Fuji GFX 100S, but that flash sync speed is garbage. I'm not too clued in here but is there a significant reason it's so slow?
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2021 08:53
|
|
|
Yeast posted:Man, I was seriously considering the Fuji GFX 100S, but that flash sync speed is garbage. Can it still do HSS?
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2021 15:03
|
|
|
Yeast posted:Man, I was seriously considering the Fuji GFX 100S, but that flash sync speed is garbage.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2021 15:19
|
|
|
Yeah the Hasselblad X1D having lens shutters is still a point in its favor for, like, studio flash use. Kind of a shame that Fuji has really eaten their lunch in the “cheap” medium format space. The Sony a1 having an insane sensor readout could point towards an eventual fast-read MF sensor that has sync speed over 1/250 without a physical shutter, so Fuji’s strategy of sticking with FP shutters could eventually not matter that much as a downside.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2021 15:26
|
|
|
Ah yep, all that makes sense. Thanks for the details 
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2021 08:19
|
|
|
SMERSH Mouth posted:Kind of a shame that Fuji has really eaten their lunch in the “cheap” medium format space. "Cheap" has never really been a market segment that Hasselblad has aimed for, tbf.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2021 21:12
|
|
|
Yeast posted:Man, I was seriously considering the Fuji GFX 100S, but that flash sync speed is garbage. I do studio shooting with an analogue MF camera with a focal plane shutter. The sync speed is 1/30 and... it's ok. You can still get all of your light from strobes at that speed, you still get frozen movement (because the effective shutter speed is the length of time that your strobes are dumping light). You'll likely be be able to do anything you were previously doing at 1/200 on full frame including HSS. Portra 160, 1/30, f/11.  Gwendolynne021-Edit.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2021 23:50
|
|
|
Helen Highwater posted:I do studio shooting with an analogue MF camera with a focal plane shutter. The sync speed is 1/30 and... it's ok. You can still get all of your light from strobes at that speed, you still get frozen movement (because the effective shutter speed is the length of time that your strobes are dumping light). You'll likely be be able to do anything you were previously doing at 1/200 on full frame including HSS. Lovely. Annoyingly, I'm using it for liquids and falling objects mainly, so I need to get it up higher. I shoot pretty much everything at 250th or so.       I think if I was a studio photographer I could move to Fuji - and I got really close, but in the end my clients don't justify me being there just yet. Today I pulled the trigger and moved to Nikon Mirrorless. Used the Z7ii for a weekend, and the low light AF improvement, and the addition of a grip got me there. The dual processors is no joke. Hoping whatever Z9 thing they release in October/November is a true D850 replacement.  Nikon's being aggressive with the rebates and discounts in Australia at the moment, so I went for it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2021 06:29
|
|
|
Can you just use an ND to reduce the ambient light? Your strobes will be a bit slower though so you might have to experiment to get a balance.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2021 11:53
|
|
|
Whatever is lit by ambient light will still have blur from motion or camera shake at low shutter speeds. And you have to make your flash brighter if you add an ND or stop down the aperture. For my lovely flashes the recharge time is much longer at full power, which is a pain. I've been spoiled by using compacts that can sync at any speed, it is so nice to be able to set the level of background/ambient light with shutter speed on a sunny day.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2021 16:44
|
|
|
Anyone else here using an x-t2 webcam with the Fuji webcam software? I seem to remember using it before and having exposure compensation and af activation via the webcam application interface? The buttons for them are there but they don’t do anything? Edit: ah, those functions work fine with Fuji X Webcam on my Mac, but not on Windows. Weird. I guess I’ve got another question, too. On Windows, the camera in webcam mode stays on for less than 10 minutes. Auto power off is set to ‘never’ in the camera settings, but no power setting seems to make any difference. It always turns off. Would using a dummy battery possibly remedy this? SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Feb 10, 2021 |
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2021 18:35
|
|
|
I've never been able to get the exposure compensation to work, but I know for sure that the instant focus button in the program only works if the camera is set to AF.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2021 19:11
|
|
|
Fujifilm is remarkably bad at writing software, like even Sony's stuff is better and that's not saying much.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2021 19:53
|
|
|
I went out and took some pictures today. Challenging light - bright sunlight on fresh snow. Had a lot of fun manual shooting, setting the exposure by adjusting the shutter speed and aperture. Really nice experience with the big Fuji knobs and lens ring. I should do that more often, I just get lazy and that A usually wins.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2021 21:44
|
|
|
I decided to buy myself an E-M5III as an upgrade from the original E-M10. This thing is pretty sweet so far. I was thinking of selling some primes to upgrade to a 12-45 pro, but then I made the mistake of playing with the 45 1.8 and I can’t sell any of these tiny rear end lenses.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2021 04:42
|
|
|
I've been a Fuji shooter for ~6 years now, I started with an X100T and liked it enough that I unloaded my Canon kit and got an X-T1 and then a couple years later replaced it with an X-T2. I was planning to replace the X-T2 with an X-T4 but when they released it I didn't like that almost all of the focus was on improvements to video performance and I wasn't a fan of how they changed the screen. Curious if anyone has been on this upgrade path who could tell me if I should just jump up to the X-T3 and wait to see what they end up doing for the X-T5? I'm pretty much solely a still shooter and the X-T2 is still cutting it for most of my needs but I'd love to get some better low-light/high-iso performance and the improved AF would certainly be big. Really though I'd like to do more astrophotography this summer and I'm having a difficult time finding good comparisons for how the most recent X-Trans sensor is with long exposures. Plenty of astrophotographers are shooting Fuji X but not a lot of good examples of if performance is markedly better with the X-T3 or X-T4. Anybody got any advice? I'm not in any particular rush and there are definitely a few pieces of glass I wouldn't mind picking up if there's not a very good reason to upgrade yet.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2021 05:32
|
|
|
Just off the top of my head observations from owning an X-T2 and an X-T30: Using iso 160 (vs the T2’s lowest of 200) lets you push shadows a little more before the noise gets really bad, maybe by about half a stop. This isn’t an improvement for low light/high ISO shooting, but kind of goes hand-in-hand with the fact that there’s actually maybe a little bit more noise with the T30 at ISOs above 6400, compared to the T2, in my subjective judgement. Not that you should shoot at such high iso; just underexpose at an iso no lower than 640 for the newer cameras and 800 for the T2 then push in post. If this sounds kind of like a fiddly edge case to you, it is. The image quality you’re getting out the the T2 is basically the same. The 26 vs 24 mp difference is literally nothing. The extra pixels are largely for autofocus improvement and most are masked out. If you’re working off RAWs in an editor you’re not going to be able to pull any more detail out of the newer cameras. I can print to the same sizes with a T2 or a T30. If you’re shooting JPEGs only, I think the new cameras might give you a little bit better detail. They certainly take advantage of the improved DR modes and extra film sims. Most of the improvements that aren’t in video are in AF. I can definitely get more shots in, like, dimly lit interiors during parties and other events with the T30. But if you’re not super into video and aren’t feeling limited by AF in low light, the T2 is still really good. Basically the same as the newer models. SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 13:30 on Mar 15, 2021 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2021 13:28
|
|
|
I snagged a panasonic GX8 on ebay for ~$300 after selling my gh2 for almost $500(??? why someone would pay me that much in 2021 I'll never understand), and I'm kicking myself for not upgrading from my beloved GX7 sooner. the EVF is incredible, especially with the little rubber eyepiece accessory. be a lot cooler if somebody didn't steal the 100-300mm I got to accompany it off my porch, though. guess I'll stick with the ancient 45-200 for now since I'll probably have to eat the cost of that. what the gently caress is anyone going to do with a m4/3 lens?  I discovered the major difference between keh and mpb for used camera gear over the weekend: keh requires a signature for a $9 piece of rubber, while mpb waives the signature for a $500 lens
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2021 14:02
|
|
|
MMD3 posted:I've been a Fuji shooter for ~6 years now, I started with an X100T and liked it enough that I unloaded my Canon kit and got an X-T1 and then a couple years later replaced it with an X-T2. I very recently upgraded from an X-T20 to an X-T3 and so far (only a couple hundred shots, mind) I can't say I noticed much of an ISO performance difference. Maybe a little bit? I don't shoot low ISO very much though - I mostly shoot birds and crank the ISO up for faster shutter speed. What is definitely noticeable though is the autofocus, it's just leagues better, at least for what I do. I didn't expect the difference to be as big as it is, honestly. It's noticeably faster, and I've gone from using almost exclusively back button focus in manual mode with a very small focus area, to using mostly AF-C in either zone or single point mode because most of the time it actually does what I want and doesn't wander off. Other than that the most noticeable thing about the upgrade is actually a very minor change but one that feels great, and that's how fast the EVF turns on when you put your eye to it. On the X-T20 there was like a second of lag there, but on the X-T3 it's basically instant. A small thing to be sure, but important to me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2021 15:28
|
|
|
SMERSH Mouth posted:Just off the top of my head observations from owning an X-T2 and an X-T30: Thanks for the insights. Yeah, I don't need larger prints, that was one of the deciding factors for making the jump from full frame to mirrorless. I realized realistically speaking there's nothing I will ever be shooting personally or professionally that a 24MP image won't allow me to print at a size I'm happy with (I've done 16x20 prints of 18MP images no problem and up-ressing is only getting better with Adobe's new algorithms) I almost always shoot raw+fine jpeg in-case I want to transfer something to my phone before I am back at my computer, I know plenty of X photographers love shooting jpeg only and while I do really love Fuji's film emulations and typically stick pretty closely to them when I process in Lightroom I don't think I'll ever be able to give up the flexibility of raw. The AF (particularly low-light AF) is going to be one of the big things for me as I shoot a good amount of events & live shows (when it's not covid). TheFluff posted:I very recently upgraded from an X-T20 to an X-T3 and so far (only a couple hundred shots, mind) I can't say I noticed much of an ISO performance difference. Maybe a little bit? I don't shoot low ISO very much though - I mostly shoot birds and crank the ISO up for faster shutter speed. What is definitely noticeable though is the autofocus, it's just leagues better, at least for what I do. I didn't expect the difference to be as big as it is, honestly. It's noticeably faster, and I've gone from using almost exclusively back button focus in manual mode with a very small focus area, to using mostly AF-C in either zone or single point mode because most of the time it actually does what I want and doesn't wander off. Always happy with speed improvements, particularly when it comes to EVF responsiveness so that's another great reason for me. Thanks! I guess I'll start looking for discounted new or lightly used X-T3's. I have to imagine the X-T5 is at least another 2 years out but I suppose I could be wrong.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2021 19:26
|
|
|
Hi thread! I'm an amateur shooting with an ancient Canon EOS Rebel T1i, looking to swap to mirrorless. I do mostly landscape stuff along with occasional travel shots (although not so much right now obviously) and usually wander around with the EF-S f15-85mm 3.5-5.6 lens on. A key thing to know is, for a number of reasons, having IBIS is an important factor in any upgrade. Insofar as I'd thought this through I was looking at a Sony A6600 or similar albeit with some misgivings, because the Sony lens lineup is a bit pricey and doesn't seem to have as good coverage of various ranges as on Canon, at least in a similar price bracket. I looked again recently and was surprised to see that Fuji have not only come out with the X-S10 but they also have the XF 16-80mm f4 (yay constant aperture) which seems to get pretty good reviews for a lens of its type. The X-S10 is also much more like a Canon DSLR in terms of physical ergonomics than any other Fuji camera and has a PASM dial rather than the more traditional Fuji controls, so again that's more marks for familiarity. Bearing in mind the IBIS thing, am I being a dumb dumb and overlooking any competition at a similar price point which I ought to at least consider? Looks like the X-S10 + XF 16-80 can be picked up for $1499 as a kit, and then I can ebay the Canon stuff for a couple hundred bucks.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2021 23:22
|
|
|
rolleyes posted:Hi thread! I'm an amateur shooting with an ancient Canon EOS Rebel T1i, looking to swap to mirrorless. I do mostly landscape stuff along with occasional travel shots (although not so much right now obviously) and usually wander around with the EF-S f15-85mm 3.5-5.6 lens on. A key thing to know is, for a number of reasons, having IBIS is an important factor in any upgrade. If you just want IBIS, you want it cheap and in a small package, the Panasonic DC-GX9 is a thing that exists, but while it's like half the price it's a few years old now and I'd say the Fuji X-S10 is a far better camera in most respects. There are a few other micro 4/3 options as well, especially from Olympus, but I don't know much about them and Olympus exited the camera business about a year ago. The X-S10 is by far the cheapest camera with IBIS and an APS-C sized sensor available on the market right now though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2021 01:04
|
|
|
Has anyone here used a "mist" diffusion filter? There's a lot of Youtube hype around stuff like the Tiffen Black Pro-Mist. I feel like it might give a little interesting character to night photography in particular but I also don't want to spend $50 on yet another camera accessory I don't use.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2021 01:17
|
|
|
The sony has pretty poor ergonomics by all accounts, but does have real time tracking autofocus which is really good. Most of the sony apsc lenses are pretty bad, but there is a good (and expensive) 16-55mm f2.8, and there is a trio of good (and big) f1.4 primes, 16, 30, and 56mm, from sigma (also for ef-m mount and mft), and a good deal of reasonably priced first and third party full frame lenses. You could probably find a used a7 ii and buy a sigma or tamron standard f2.8 zoom for ~$1500 total too. You lose out on a lot of the newest tech (like good autofocus), and iso performance is probably a little worse than the a6600 or xs10, but you can adapt old lenses without an additional crop factor. The olympus cameras have really good IBIS, and there is a 12-100mm f4 that supports dual IS too. The newest high end models even do high res multishot handheld. I probably wouldn't go for it myself if I was buying new, but there are some good deals on used micro four thirds stuff as the system has been around for a while and has two companies making first party lenses. Panasonic also has the larger dslr styled (and sized) g9, which is a pretty good deal if you are going the micro four thirds route. The fuji apsc system is the best developed, and the xs10 is a good camera by all accounts (most complaints are about the dslr like design, which you noted as a positive). This would by my choice if there isn't something very appealing about the other systems. There aren't any bad choices and they will all take great photos, but try to play with them in person somewhere if you can and ergonomics are hard to get from specs and pictures.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2021 01:38
|
|
|
qirex posted:Has anyone here used a "mist" diffusion filter? There's a lot of Youtube hype around stuff like the Tiffen Black Pro-Mist. I feel like it might give a little interesting character to night photography in particular but I also don't want to spend $50 on yet another camera accessory I don't use.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2021 01:43
|
|
|
rolleyes posted:Hi thread! I'm an amateur shooting with an ancient Canon EOS Rebel T1i, looking to swap to mirrorless. I do mostly landscape stuff along with occasional travel shots (although not so much right now obviously) and usually wander around with the EF-S f15-85mm 3.5-5.6 lens on. A key thing to know is, for a number of reasons, having IBIS is an important factor in any upgrade. Just wanted to ask why, in particular, IBIS is a key. The usual approach I try to think about for gear updates is "I'm running into X problem, so I'm going to do Y to solve it," and just wanted to check the logic. Partially this is because if IBIS isn't as necessary, there are more Fuji bodies available used to help you budget-wise. that said if you have money and want it, the X-S10 is a great step into Fuji. Get you the glass and into the system, and then to an improved body in the farther future.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2021 12:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 03:35 |
|
|
harperdc posted:Just wanted to ask why, in particular, IBIS is a key. The usual approach I try to think about for gear updates is "I'm running into X problem, so I'm going to do Y to solve it," and just wanted to check the logic. Partially this is because if IBIS isn't as necessary, there are more Fuji bodies available used to help you budget-wise. The tl;dr is unsteady hands, so having something to assist with that on all lenses is a massive help. Lens stabilization is certainly one way to solve that (and the EF-S 15-85 is stabilized) but having IBIS just seems like the easiest way to solve the problem when I know I'll need it for all lenses. Plus IBIS can generally achieve better results than stabilization in the lens alone, and means you don't keep having to buy more expensive stabilized lenses. I'm aware the Fuji 16-80 is also stabilized but I'm looking at that for the focal length range more than anything, and it won't be my only lens in the longer term if I do go with the Fuji system. I also don't mind spending a relatively large amount (for an amateur anyway) since any modern camera is a massive resolution and dynamic range jump from the ancient Canon. Thanks for the advice from others above too. rolleyes fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Mar 16, 2021 |
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2021 15:32
|
|