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Dec 9, 2003
I am a horrible person, disregard my posts.

Welcome to the New Sharp and Pointy poo poo Thread OP!

I meant to be posting this last night, but when I went to do so I discovered I’d copped a 24hr probation, so it had to wait.

The old sharp and pointy poo poo thread OP's point was never really meant to be a megathread but rather a giant festival of nerds showing off knives since we didn't have a knife thread in TFR at the time, but with time and a surprisingly large number of knife aficionados the thread got huge and the OP words and pics became totally useless. Time for a new one, really. Overdue, even. So:


An Intro to Folders
Folding knives are the bread and butter of pocket knives for the vast majority of people. From the slipjoint Swiss Army Knife your grandfather gave you as a kid to absurdly expensive custom and semi-custom pointy things you can buy as a grownup manchild, pretty much everyone’s had a folding knife and absolutely everyone should have a folding pocket knife.
For people new to knives, there can be a lot of terms and mechanisms they aren’t familiar with – surprisingly, a tool as old as mankind keeps changing. Some lock types you may be interested in:
  • Slipjoint

    Probably the most basic type of folder, the blade is held open by spring tension and closed by... just loving closing it. Swiss Army knives, Case knives, some Buck knives, and countless others come in this style -- even some really modern looks. These are also the only knives allowed to be carried in England, so if you're a pasty Briton afraid of flavorful food and colonials, you might be interested in these. Rarely suited to one-handed operation.

  • Lockback

    Another extremely common locking mechanism is the lockback. The knife is locked in position by a pivoting bar along its spine, and unlocked and closed by pressing on an exposed portion of the locking bar. Sometimes the unlock point is at the tail end of the handle; sometimes the unlock point is in the middle (as on Spydercos). Also rarely suited to one-handed operation.

  • Liner Lock

    Liner locks are knives locked open by a metal scale in the handle flexing into place behind the blade in the open position, and unlocked by pressing the liner aside to allow the blade to fold back into the handle. These are also very common these days, for better or for worse -- cheap knives use this mechanism poorly, with poorly fitted parts and metals with too much flexibility, whereas countless well-made knives use the locking system well, with properly made parts and materials. Usually a poor choice for lefties.

  • Frame Lock

    The frame lock mechanism is the fraternal twin of the liner lock; whereas the liner lock is, as its name suggests, made of a thin metal liner clad in the actual grip material, frame locks have no external grip material, eschewing it in favor of a thicker slab of metal in the form of a solid frame. The mechanism is used in the exact same way as the liner lock. Also usually a poor choice for lefties.

  • Axis Lock

    The Axis Lock is from Benchmade. It's their baby, and it is fantastic. The blade is locked in place by a moving bar held in place by spring tension, and is unlocked by pulling the bar itself back. The Axis Lock is ambidextrous and results in a knife which can usually be opened by the force of a wrist flick, extremely smoothly. Perfectly suited to one-handed operation on the opening and closing.

  • Miscellany

    Opinel ring locks rely on a slotted ring which is twisted and untwisted to lock and unlock the blade.

Some companies that make folding knives:
Cold Steel

Summary: Stop using your loving teeth to open packages at lunch time and quit clawing at plastic packages with a key like a simpering chimp, and buy a folding knife.

Some poo poo About Fixed-Blade Knives
Fixed blade knives occupy a broad chunk of history and are the obvious choice for everything outdoorsy. They excel at all manners of bushcraft, in one form or another -- kukris and machetes gently caress brush and undergrowth up, big ol' choppers can be smacked through wood to split logs for fires, and smaller blades can make everything from wooden spoons to spears and shelters. And of course, from prehistory onward, they've also tool for stabbing the poo poo out of people in a different uniform from your own: the daggers of ancient times through to the grand civilizations of Northern Africa and beyond, the famous Bowie knife of the wild American past to the Ka-bar of WWII and on to crazy space knives for soldiers today. Fixed blade knives are always stronger than folders, and don't need to opened, an important thing to consider when working in slippery or frantic conditions.

Some vaaaaague categories they fit into, for those of you new to fixed blades:
  • Small Ones

    A bunch of fixed blades come with blades between 2 inches and 5 inches in length. This is often the handiest blade length range for most uses. They're used for everything bushcraft, like simple camp work and forming wood into spoons and camp forks and other fun poo poo like that, fishing, skinning game, and even eating chores. If you're an outdoorsy type, you either own one or you really need to buy one. Their blade length lends them well to finer chores and things which can require hands to come into very close contact with the blade, making them a safer choice for most tasks that don't include chopping wood.

  • Big Ones

    When you need something bigger -- for whatever reason -- there are also countless options available to consumers. Big knives are commonly purchased to serve either as a bigger bushcraft knife, allowing a little more flexibility in the types of tasks you take on, or as a weapon for military and even law enforcement. Big fixed blades for camp and survival tasks often include heavy, thicker blades and a fuller belly, allowing for the knife to be smacked through logs to produce split wood for fires, or even to chop down small trees or branches. Big fixed blades for stabbing people/playing Deadliest Warrior dressup usually have a dropped point, a slimmer profile, and possibly a false edge along the back.

  • Kukri

    Kukris are Nepalese knives with a forward-swept blade that has been with their culture forever and ever. They're traditionally both tools and weapons, ideal for chopping like a machete, with more force falling on a narrower part of blade. Practiced users can use them to demolish some rather stout underbrush, kill and butcher livestock, and even cook. They're also famously the knife of the Gurkha soldiers. Modern times have seen these blades surge in global popularity as an alternative to machetes, though their use is notably different in practice, and should be considered complementary rather than as a replacement.

  • Machete

    Basically every culture anywhere near a tropical or subtropical climate has a variation of the machete, and the tool in one form or another is extremely old. Though some variants are heavy and others are light, as a general rule they are long and straight edged tools, designed to hack away at the softer-tissue underbrush such as vines, young bamboo, canes of various types, and so on. They can be indispensable for clearing some bush.

    Notable fixed-blade knife makers:
    Cold Steel

If you are a hiker or a camper or a crazy bushman in the mountains or possibly sasquatch or a soldier of some kind or you like to put on camouflage clothing and masturbate in front of a mirror as a hobby, you should own one or several dozen fixed blades.

Kitchen Cutlery and Other Martha Stewart Kinda poo poo
We all have to eat, except for Lincoln's Wax, who gains sustenance from suffering and fear. Goons don't really need to read this section because cheetos and ramen don't require knives and related culinary utensils, but anyone who ended up at this thread by accident from elsewhere lacking a neckbeard, welcome to SA and enjoy this section about cooking implements and the vaguely related miscellaneous sharp poo poo that is found in the home.
  • Chef's Knives and Sundry Other Blades

    The big centerpiece of a cook's arsenal, the Chef's knife is a large blade with a mostly-straight edge and usually a pointed tip in the 6-10" range. Everyone needs one, of some kind or another, and many people will have more than one in varying sizes. Though it is easy to spend pocket change on one at Walmart, a quality knife can be had for the price of a movie for two or a single dinner out and will pay dividends for its entire service life of many years. It's also easy to spend hundreds of dollars on a single knife from a famous maker or manufacturer, and chances are if you're interested in that, you'll probably know what you're looking for.

  • Paring and Petty Knives

    Another non-negotiable inhabitant of nearly every kitchen is the paring knife (and to some extent, its bigger cousin the petty knife). These measure 3-4" for paring knives and 4-5" for petty knives, and find use in nearly any preparation process. Their size makes them ideal for detail work. Another knife that can cost two bucks at a hardware store but would be better served by spending $20 to $40 for a proper tool, and is available from some makers for much higher prices.

  • Chinese Cleavers and Santoku

    Asian knives currently extremely popular around the world, these two designs date back centuries and are heralded by their fans as the second coming of cooking. Others feel they're not quite worth the reputation and mystique they have as designs, and prefer European/American style suites. A skilled Chinese cleaver user can employ their tool -- slimmer and differently-edged than heavy western meat cleavers -- to do nearly every task a kitchen can have, from chopping to fabricating a whole chicken down to its constituent parts to peeling and crushing garlic and ginger. Santoku users claim their favored knife can do everything a western chef's knife or Chinese cleaver can do and more. Regardless of the hype, the two designs can find a home in many kitchens and can indeed be used to great effect in any case.

  • Slicers and Carvers

    You have bread, or a roast, or who the gently caress knows what, and you want it cut into thin, uniform strips -- sometimes really long ones, such as down the length of a baguette. You'll be reaching for a long knife, often serrated, to do it. These are slicers and carvers, and come in many lengths and shapes. Every brand seems to have their own take on the designs of these two categories, probably more noticeably than any other kitchen knife.

  • Shears and Scissors

    Kitchen shears can come in a number of shapes, but consistently have beefy construction, with thick blades and a high pivot point to give mechanical advantage when snipping through small bones and just about anything else.
    General-use scissors shouldn't be a goddamn mystery to you by this point in your loving life.
Knifemakers of note for kitchen goods:
Shun, by Kershaw
And Fiskars makes some pretty good scissors.

Multitools are the manliest thing. If you're a penis-haver and don't own one, you're a subhuman worm of some kind. If you're a lady and you don't own one, you're not off the hook, either. Multitools are any of the numerous designs of devices containing several tools, usually including pliers, a knife, a file, and a bunch of assorted other screwdrivers and miscellaneous implements -- though others have any combination of wrenches, saws, picks, awls, and USB memory drives. They're loving magical. They can solve hundreds of problems and thanks to their array of tools, they have the convenient benefit of keeping you mouthbreathing wretches from using your pocket knife as a screwdriver or a prying tool, which means they protect your other most valuable tool from the misuse and damage your malformed brains would otherwise inflict. Some types of these gifts from the machine gods:
  • Those Leatherman Things

    Everyone better have one of these by the time they're done reading the OP. These are made up of folding pliers or slide-out pliers and some combination of files, saws, screwdrivers, and sometimes scissors and whatever. Leatherman makes them, of course -- they're nearly synonymous with the word multitool in most places and they deserve their reputation -- and they come in a dozen or more styles at any given time, many of them specialized in their tool load for certain tasks such as fishing or electrical repair. Victorinox makes this type of design, too, as does SOG. If you don't own one of these, and you're a father, you are failing your entire family as a man.

  • Swiss Army Knives

    The Swiss are a goofy people who fear mirrors and have been known to build mountaintop homes in which to hide from Germans and the French. In their centuries of isolation, they have developed only three things of worth: a book of advanced sodomy techniques, a language derived from clicks and whistles, and a potent alcohol said to contain the souls of the dwarves who live deep in the Alps, who the Swiss have been at war with since their discovery in 1996. Or maybe not, this history book from Texas makes no loving sense. But between their halls of holy clocks and their dwarf-pelt rugs, the Swiss DID invent the knife-shaped multitool, which we all remember from our youth. You will lose the toothpick, whether you buy the knife from Wenger or Victorinox.

  • Other Stupid poo poo

    Do you hate your parents and want to rebel? Shut the gently caress up. If you're still determined to go to art school or whatever, you can buy weird poo poo like this from CRKT and probably other companies founded by people who were in love with their mothers. These are often based around wrenches and carabiner clips because there arent many other tools that help you come out to your father.
Companies that make multitools include:


Dec 9, 2003
I am a horrible person, disregard my posts.


Okay, What About Steel?

Bravo! Steel type IS important for tools made entirely out of it. But it's more than just numbers and names, because heat treatment, the manner in which the steel is produced, the geometry of the edge, and the shape of the blade all matter dramatically when it comes to sizing up the end result. An old saying goes that there was never a good knife made from bad steel, and that's a good attitude to keep with you -- but what goes into making a good steel is not really easy. But since we're goons, most of us can't tie our loving shoes or groom our luxurious neckbeards, and therefore we probably need to keep this poo poo simple. So:

Click this excellent Introduction to Steels, over on BladeForums

I mean it. Click that.


Fine. gently caress you. I'll summarize. Poorly.

There are a million types of steels, designed for a million types of tasks, made up of differing mixtures of Chromium, Carbon, Manganese, Molybdenum, Vanadium, Nickel, and Tungsten. Many of these steels are commonly used as knife steels. Properly heat-treated, most of these steels are more than suitable for your pocket knife, but it all depends on the purpose of the loving tool. You're not going to buy a sports car for offroading and you aren't going to make a roast beef for dessert; neither should you be picking a knife with extreme hardness for rough use, as it will probably chip when you manhandle it at work, nor should you take too soft a steel into the kitchen and have the edge roll on you every couple seconds and need constant sharpening between tomatoes. If you know what job you want the blade to do, you can pick a steel -- and the correct edge angle, which we'll get to -- that suits the task at hand. Wrap your head around this and you'll find lots of troubles go away and your happiness with your purchases rise dramatically.

Okay, So, What Are They?
ATS-34/154CM: ATS-34 was super common from the 90s into the 2000s. It was and is a great stainless steel; Benchmade still uses it under the name 154CM in many knives.
BG-42: An evolution of sorts for ATS-34 with better edge retention owing to increased molybdenum and vanadium.
VG10: An excellent higher-end stainless steel with extremely good edge-retention that can take a wicked grind.
AUS-6, -8, -10: The AUS family of steels are moderately-popular, cheaper steels used by some CRKT and Cold Steel knives. They are tough, but somewhat soft -- easy to put an edge on, but need some maintenance to keep it there.
CPM S30V: S30V is the current darling of the knife world and deserves its reputation. It's a hard steel with excellent edge retention that can be sharpened to a razor edge. It can be tough to sharpen. CPM stands for Crucible Powder Metal or Crucible Particle Metallurgy depending on where you read it, and it is simply a manufacturing process that packs the steel alloy elements more densely than traditional metal-making means.
12C27: Used by a lot of Scandinavian knives (moras, puukkos, etc) and was/is used by Kershaw, 12C27 is also called Sandvik or Sandvik 12C27, and can take a very good edge id properly heat treated.
440/420: A cheap steel series used by many companies. Properly used by a quality manufacturer with a proper heat treat, it can be a perfectly good general steel. Unfortunately it is commonly purchased by cheap makers and poorly heat treated inconsistently, which leads to extremely poor blades. Know who you're buying from.
D2: A durable, hard tool steel that takes a very sharp edge and keeps it for a very long time, but which is extremely hard to loving sharpen. Has reasonably good stain resistance for a tool steel, which generally tend towards the carbon side of things.
M2 and M4: Tool steels used in high-heat/high-RPM saw blades, these two see use from time to time in custom and limited-run knives. Tough to sharpen, but hard to dull as well -- rust easily.
A2: You'll find this on custom or semi-custom fixed blades. It's "tougher" than D2, meaning it is less likely to be brittle and chip or crack.
1095: Ka-Bar loves this stuff, as do a lot of custom makers and any number of other companies. Fairly hard carbon steel that can take a good edge with relative ease.
INFI: Used only by Busse Combat, considered magical loving sorcery as his knives are extremely well-made, enormous things that can cut or chop through a retarded amount of stuff.
H1: H1 isn't, strictly speaking, "steel," actually. But it's used on dive knives because it's some kind of alien alloy from Mars that doesn't rust, so if you're some kind of a merman, you'll find this in marine knives and tools.

There are, of course, countless others, but they are often relegated to custom-only due to cost, the difficulty of working with them, or a combination of the two. These are the steels you'll see anytime you browse a given manufacturer's page.

No, gently caress you.

Okay, so, like, way back when, mankind discovered this incredible method of making steel that produced a sword or knife that was extremely difficult to break or damage, and could take and keep a razor edge -- such that it could cleave armor and remain unchipped, or fight sword on sword and shatter a lesser blade. It was a real thing, and though some of the rumors of its properties should be taken with a grain of salt, reports exist from so many sources of the era (like 300-1500ish IIRC) from so many places that it's pretty safe to suggest that some people somewhere figured out a way of making a steel with some badass molecular structure.

The thing is, we lost that technique, somehow. And we can't recreate it. It is gone. Read those words again. It doesn't exist. We can't make it.

What you see called "damascus" these days, since the 1970s, is pattern-welded metal. This means a dude took a dark metal or steel alloy, and a bright metal or steel alloy, welded it together, and then started forging it and twisting it and turning it and twisting it more until it took on a wavy pattern. It is loving dumb (and ugly) but some people like how it looks. And that's it. That's all it is. It doesn't hold a magically-superior edge or anything like that. Any marketing telling you it's superior is bullshit. Anyone who talks about their damascus knife being sharper than your S30V just because it's damascus is a moron.

Blade Geometry
Knives come in a buncha loving shapes, and this poo poo matters for more than aesthetics. Looks are important, of course, but the shape of a blade -- and the angle at which it is ground -- determine how it cuts, and just as importantly, what it can cut well. This shape and angle combination is determined by deciding what the knife is for, and what the knife will be made out of.

Edge Grind

Stolen blatantly and remorselessly from Wikipedia, this image shows you:

1. Hollow grind:a knife blade which has been ground to create a characteristic concave, beveled cutting edge along. This is characteristic of straight razors, used for shaving, and yields a very sharp but weak edge which requires stropping for maintenance.
2. Flat grind: The blade tapers all the way from the spine to the edge from both sides. A lot of metal is removed from the blade and is thus more difficult to grind, one factor that limits its commercial use. It sacrifices edge durability in favor of more sharpness. The Finnish puukko is an example of a flat ground knife. A true, flat ground knife having only a single bevel is somewhat of a rarity.
3. Sabre grind: Similar to a flat grind blade except that the bevel starts at about the middle of the blade, not the spine. Also named "Scandinavian Grind", it produces a more lasting edge at the expense of some cutting ability and is typical of kitchen knives.
4. Chisel grind: As on a chisel, only one side is ground (often at an edge angle of about 20 – 30°); the other remains flat. As many Japanese culinary knives tend to be chisel ground they are often sharper than a typical double bevelled Western culinary knife. (A chisel grind has only a single edge angle. If a sabre grind blade has the same edge angle as a chisel grind, it still has two edges and thus has twice the included angle.) Knives which are chisel ground come in left and right-handed varieties, depending upon which side is ground.
5. Double bevel or compound bevel: A back bevel, similar to a sabre or flat grind, is put on the blade behind the edge bevel (the bevel which is the foremost cutting surface). This back bevel keeps the section of blade behind the edge thinner which improves cutting ability. Being less acute at the edge than a single bevel, sharpness is sacrificed for resilience: such a grind is much less prone to chipping or rolling than a single bevel blade. In practice, double bevels are common in a variety of edge angles and back bevel angles, and Western kitchen knives generally have a double bevel, with an edge angle of 20–22° (included angle of 40–44°).
6. Convex grind: Rather than tapering with straight lines to the edge, the taper is curved, though in the opposite manner to a hollow grind. Such a shape keeps a lot of metal behind the edge making for a stronger edge while still allowing a good degree of sharpness. This grind can be used on axes and is sometimes called an axe grind. As the angle of the taper is constantly changing this type of grind requires some degree of skill to reproduce on a flat stone. Convex blades usually need to be made from thicker stock than other blades.

Blade Shape

Again, stolen from Wikipedia:

1. A normal blade has a curving edge, and flat back. A dull back lets the wielder use fingers to concentrate force; it also makes the knife heavy and strong for its size. The curve concentrates force on a small point, making cutting easier. This knife can chop as well as pick and slice. This is also the best single-edged blade shape for thrusting, as the edge cuts a swath that the entire width of the knife can pass through without the spine having to push aside any material on its path, as a sheepsfoot or drop-point knife would.
2. A curved, trailing-point knife has a back edge that curves upward. This lets a lightweight knife have a larger curve on its edge. Such a knife is optimized for slicing or slashing. Trailing point blades provide a larger cutting area, or belly, and are common on skinning knives.
3. A clip-point blade is like a normal blade with the back "clipped" or concavely formed to make the tip thinner and sharper. The back edge of the clip may have a false edge that could be sharpened to make a second edge. The sharp tip is useful as a pick, or for cutting in tight places. If the false edge is sharpened it increases the knife's effectiveness in piercing. The Bowie knife has a clip point blade and clip-points are common on pocket knives and other folding knives.
4. A drop point blade has a convex curve of the back towards the point. It handles much like the clip-point, though with a stronger point less suitable for piercing. Swiss army pocket knives often have drop-points on their larger blades.
5. A spear-point blade is a symmetrically pointed blade with a point that is in line with the center line of the blade's long axis. Spear-points may be single-edged (without or with a false edge), may have only a portion of the second edge sharpened, or double-edged. Pen-knives are often single-edged, non-spined spear-points, usually quite small, named for their past use in sharpening quills for writing. Pen-knife may also nowadays refer to somewhat larger pocket knives which are often drop-points. Some throwing knives may have spear-points but without the spine, being only flat pieces of metal.
6. A needle-point blade is a symmetrical, highly tapered, twin-edged blade often seen in fighting blades, such as the Fairbairn-Sykes commando knife. Its long, narrow point offers good penetration but is liable to breakage if abused. Although often referred to as a knife, this design may also be referred to as a stiletto or (slender variety of) dagger due to its use as a stabbing weapon albeit one very capable of slashing as well.
7. A spey point blade (once used for neutering livestock) has a single, sharp, straight edge that curves strongly upwards at the end to meet a short, dull, straight point from the dull back. With the curved end of the blade being closer to perpendicular to the blade's axis than other knives and lacking a point, making penetration unlikely, spey blades were common on Trapper style pocketknives for skinning fur-bearing animals.[6]
8. A Kamasu Kissaki, or "Americanized tanto" is actually a Japanese design tip which went out of use in the 15th century, and has a somewhat chisel-like point that is thick towards the point (being close to the spine) and is thus quite strong. It is superficially similar to the points on most Japanese long and short swords (katana and wakizashi). The Kamasu Kissaki is often straight but may also be gently curved. The point is actually a second edge on the end of the blade, with a total edge angle of 60 – 80 degrees. Some varieties may have the back edge angled to the point slightly and sharpened for a short distance from the point.
9. A sheepsfoot knife has a straight edge and a straight dull back that curves towards the edge at the end. It gives the most control, because the dull back edge is made to be held by fingers. Sheepsfoot blades were originally made to trim the hooves of sheep.
10. A Wharncliffe blade is similar in profile to a sheep's foot but the curve of the back edge starts closer to the handle and is more gradual. Its blade is much thicker than a knife of comparable size. Wharncliffes were used by sailors, as the shape of the tip prevented accidental penetration of the work or the user's hand with the sudden motion of a ship.

Don't buy tanto knives. They're loving dumb. They're bad at being knives, difficult to sharpen properly, and serve no point. The actual tanto design from Japan is a much wider design for a specific task; the design of modern "tantos" was abandoned by the Japanese centuries ago because it was dumb. If you're not stabbing through Level IIA soft body armor ON A DAILY BASIS, you do not need a tanto and you shouldn't want one, you tasteless moron.

Sharpening That Bitch

Eventually, everything will get dull, no matter how expensive the steel was. An entire thread could be dedicated to sharpening, and elsewhere on the internet, you can find a million such threads. Sharpening knives is an art and a science and it takes practice and understanding of the process to get it right. I could write a buncha words here because I am a loving mongoloid with too much time, but I'm actually not a giant enough rear end in a top hat -- nor am I an expert on the matter, truth be told -- to do so, so instead I will suffice it to say that sharpening is the process of removing and reshaping metal along an edge to narrow the steel consistently.

Remember that steel FAQ, from before? Do you love words? Click Here for a sharpening FAQ by that same man!

I'm serious, it's indispensable.

!!!!! - Someone link me some sharpening videos by non-retards so I can put them here for ADHD retards. - !!!!!
Recommendations and Suggestions

You've probably skipped everything else in this OP and come straight to here and for this, I hate you. You ignorant clod. Because you cant ingest the data presented to you and make a decision based on it and your needs, we will help you. Of course, you want a loving list of poo poo you can buy and feel happy about, so we'll give you some so you can keep one hand on your dick while you browse the forums.

These lists are subject to change based on goony whims/manufacturers changing poo poo/end of the world in 2012. Please submit recommendations in any category.

  • Spydero Native - These are extremely inexpensive, have an amazingly comfortable design, and are made of great steel with a great factory edge. The best deal in knives.
  • Benchmade 710 - Do you want to spend more? Do you want a rather long knife, with a nearly 4" blade and a butter smooth Axis Lock? Look no further.
  • Benchmade 940 - This knife is for those of you who want to spend a medium amount of money on a medium-length knife made of clean, classy materials.
  • Spyderco Pacific Salt - If you're Ariel from the Little Mermaid OR you're some kind of pirate OR you're one of those gay SCUBA retards, this is for you.
  • Chris Reeve Sebenza - If you have more money than you can spend on actually important stuff, you probably want one of these.
  • Kershaw Leek - A small, very sharp, very handy assisted-open blade.
  • Case Stockman - You can't really go wrong here; it's a classic design and doesn't scare people.
  • OPPRESSED FOREIGNER BONUS: Spyderco UK Pen Knife - Legal for carry in England, with Spyderco's trademark look and materials.
Fixed Blades
  • Ka-Bar USMC - Get this to hold while you watch The Pacific or Full Metal Jacket. Also useful for general camp chores and whatnot. And stabbing communists!
  • Benchmade Nimravus - Buy this
  • ESEE Izula - Small, well-designed, and handy for about a million tasks. Excellent choice for all outdoorspeople. Look, I'm being gender-inclusive.
  • ESEE 4 - A moderately-sized fixed blade that does fixed blade stuff. I can't spell it out for you any clearer.
  • Cold Steel Kukri - These are surprisingly good, heavy, inexpensive kukris.
  • Himalayan Imports Kukri - These are quite nice and come from the great continent of Asia and poo poo.
Kitchen Stuff
  • Victorinox/Forschner - Perfect value and great quality for the price. You can buy a great set of basics for like $100, and be cooking like a grownup in no time. You will not regret buying these instead of $6.99 Ikea knives.
  • SHUN - Currently a big name, made by Kershaw. They have a line in cooperation with Ken Onion, which resulted in a very distinctive look.
  • Global Cutlery - Note their unique handle shape, which can be unpleasant for some and a godsend for others. Try to handle some before buying.
  • Felco Products - Yo, on the real, you want this poo poo if you have a yard and you tend to it. A ficus in a pot is not a yard, goon.
    *** I'm not convinced there's any genuine competition in this category after years of work in a nursery; feel free to offer alternatives if you must. ***
  • Spyderco Sharpmaker - An idiot-proof system that will let you sharpen pretty much anything you come across. Includes a tutorial DVD with excellent lessons on its use. Very good value.
  • Lansky System - Some people swear by this system, which gives a bit more freedom than the Sharpmaker

Links to the World Wide Web
There are other places on the internet besides SA. I know. It's weird. Take it in slowly.

Shun, by Kershaw
SOG Tools
Victorinox/Forschner Cutlery
SOG Tools
Cold Steel

Buy Some poo poo
1SKS - Goon-Run, Goon-Discount
New Graham
Amazon, motherfucker

Talk About Knives
Bladeforums - The biggest knife forum on the internet and also goon-run.
Our old thread, closed

Gtab fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Jun 7, 2011

Dec 9, 2003
I am a horrible person, disregard my posts.

Yeah, so, on the real:

Give me poo poo to the add to the OP. Tips, videos, links, recommendations, all of it. PUT IT IN ME.

Miso Beno
Apr 29, 2004

Tryin' to catch me ridin' dirty

Fun Shoe

I need a video of heintron saying big ones and little ones while holding the appropriate knives.

Dec 9, 2003
I am a horrible person, disregard my posts.

Miso Beno posted:

I need a video of heintron saying big ones and little ones while holding the appropriate knives.

If this doesnt happen I will be so mad

Oct 29, 2005

I love my kershaw knife. Just sayin.

Sep 5, 2003

The frak you say?

I like my knife

Although it's not as pristine anymore

I like turtles
Aug 6, 2009

Global kitchen knives own, but they're really light so they tend to be better for appropriately light work. I have a set of 3 messermeister knives that I use for heavier duty chopping and whatnot. Generally, German kitchen knives will be on the heavier side compared to Asian knives.

Ceramic blades are a sorta cool gimmick for the kitchen, but if you drop it, your knife will shatter. So buy a cheap kyocera, that is the best value/quality proposition out there if you want to try one. Ceramic knives are harder than steel and retain a hell of an edge for a long time, but you need special tools to sharpen or even hone them. Kyocera offers cheap (free) sharpening for the life of the knife. It is kinda cool to be able to see through your translucent kitchen knife.

Also, mechanically actuated knives:
Restricted or illegal in many states, mechanically operated knives can be pretty cool things. They can also be pointless, expensive, or not work well. But if you like knives for knives, who cares?
Gravity knives -
Point it down, push the switch, blade comes out. Or flick it while holding the switch. This is a German paratrooper knife.

Assisted openers
Spring loaded folders that require you to push on a stud on the blade itself to start it opening. Often have a manual safety switch. Kinda worthless, since you're just introducing a spring to something you can do just as easily with some practice in one handed opening. They're cheaper than automatic knives, and legal in more places.

Automatic knives
Anything from an automatic folder, where you push a button on the side to make it open (a glorified assisted opener, really), to out the front (OTF) knives, AKA a *real* switchblade. OTF comes in two flavors, single and double action. With single action, actuating the switch causes the blade to open out the front. You then have to pull a handle to recock the spring and retract the blade. Double action allows you to thoughtfully sit in your office/cube/bathroom opening and closing your knife with a satisfying "click click click". Microtech makes good automatic knives. Quality autos are expensive as gently caress. Check here for legality in your state (27 out of 50 not counting CA where they're legal with a blade length under 2").

I am taking a ferrous metalworking: knife and tool making course this fall through a local community college. Will post projects here, if there is interest.

I like turtles fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Jun 7, 2011

sky shark
Jun 9, 2004


If you aren't on BladeForums, you suck

Blotto Skorzany
Nov 7, 2008

He's a PSoC, loose and runnin'
came the whisper from each lip
And he's here to do some business with
the bad ADC on his chip
bad ADC on his chiiiiip

I think the advantage of CPM is rather that it creates smaller chunks of alloying substances and distributes them more evenly

e: in Crucible's PDF datasheets of any of their powder made steels there's a nice little graphic showing this, cf.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010

Certified Centrist Trash

Well, I guess we all learned why you never post outside of TFR. You get probated the instant you hit the submit reply button.

You should probably mention that small clip point blades are good for dressing game, since you can grab it by the blade and use the back end (false edge?) to skin it with better control, which means you're less likely to gently caress up and get elk spleen fluid all over the carcass. They also make these weird klingon-toothpick looking knives for dressing game. I don't remember what they are called, they have some weird blade configuration and sometimes a bright plastic handle. Maybe someone else can help me out there.

I really want to get a Himalayan Imports Kukri. I have no reason for it, at least until I start camping in the boonies more often. But gently caress, I want one. How does the metal compare on a Cold Steel versus a HI? I'm sure I could look it up elsewhere, but I'm worried about a bunch of obese rednecks arguing over quality versus knives made by the ancient eastern art (involving leaf springs and a dirtbike engine).

Capn Beeb
Jun 29, 2003

Enter the woods, find a friend!

This weird blade obsessed Canadian told me to post some pictures of knives and well who am I to say no to him!!!

Here's a 710 piggybacking on a Nimravus ADORABLE

Artin' it up with some letterbox effect yo

Lookit that Ka-bar's , wanna grip dat rear end.


Also I was once stupid and bought this stupid loving thing:

Lookit that jive poo poo. Tanto, partial serration, lame steal, jesus christ at least it has a loving Axis lock. Then I Gtab did things to me and expanded my mind and parts beyondgot smarter and bought a 710:

Look at that pristine thing. I ought to take a picture of it now so ya'll can see the wear and poo poo. It's crazy. It's also the one in the pocket picture cause it's my pocket BFF!

Also here's a cool thing: The green micarta that Benchmade uses will match the green OD Glock uses.

Coordinatin' when I'm stabbin' and blastin'

Nov 19, 2009

Could you add a section about straight razors perhaps?

Jan 28, 2009

Tell me about throwing knives. I love chucking my cheap fixed-blade at dead tree stumps when I'm in the country. I'm getting pretty good at set distances but I'd like to learn how to throw without spins.

Bored As Fuck
Jan 1, 2006
Be polite. Be professional. But be prepared to PARTAYYY!

Fun Shoe

Nice OP, Gtab

Dec 9, 2003
I am a horrible person, disregard my posts.

BigLove posted:

Could you add a section about straight razors perhaps?

If someone knowledgeable puts the information forward, definitely. I'd love to.

Bored As gently caress posted:

Nice OP, Gtab

Thanks. I try, once in awhile. Anything you'd like to add?

Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.

My favourite folder:

Benchmade Axis AFCK (BM806) Sadly discontinued, love the way it looks and the thumbhole open, it's a lot more comfortable than most spydercos I've tried because of the chamfered hole. Kinda too big for EDC, even for me.

(shamelessly stolen from here, in Polish)

I also have a Benchmade mini-grip (blue handle, satin plain edge) and Benchmade mini-barrage (satin plain edge) that I rotate for my EDC needs. Yes, I am a total Benchmade/Axis fanboi.

Dec 6, 2008

itchy itchy itchy itchy

Does anyone make an AR-15 compatible bayonet with a wood handle, or at least a replaceable handle for an M-7 style bayonet? My woody AR needs more wood.

Bored As Fuck
Jan 1, 2006
Be polite. Be professional. But be prepared to PARTAYYY!

Fun Shoe

Gtab posted:

Thanks. I try, once in awhile. Anything you'd like to add?

Not really - just that your recommendation a few thousand posts back in the previous stabby thread for a Benchmade 943 was spot on - it's a great knife and hasn't even dulled that much yet (with admittedly minor use over the years).

Dec 9, 2003
I am a horrible person, disregard my posts.

Bored As gently caress posted:

Not really - just that your recommendation a few thousand posts back in the previous stabby thread for a Benchmade 943 was spot on - it's a great knife and hasn't even dulled that much yet (with admittedly minor use over the years).

Yaaaaay I am a helper!

Jul 11, 2001

Bohler Uddeholm powder metallurgy process video:

In the steel section in the OP, you should probably specify the powder metallurgy versions such as D2/CPM-D2, M4/CPM-M4. The M4 that everyone was excited about was CPM-M4. Others like S30V are only made using the powder metallurgical process.

Other common steels:
Kershaw now uses Sandvik 14C28N on many of their knives as their base steel. Anything that used to be 12C27 was upgraded to 13C26 and now to 14C28N. 400 series stainless has also been upgraded to 14C28N. Takes a very keen edge easily. Exclusive to Kershaw.

Chinese produced steel used on many budget knives. Used in Spyderco's Byrd line, as well as Chinese made Kershaws. Seems to be about equivalent to AUS8 in performance.

Hitachi made steel that can attain an extremely high usable hardness.

Buck's standard steel. High carbon and chromium variant of 420.

The successor to S30V. Should be a bit tougher than S30V, but about the same edge retention. Many of the newer CRK produced knives are moving to S35VN.

Capn Beeb
Jun 29, 2003

Enter the woods, find a friend!

For cleaning/lube, Benchmade's Bluelube cleanser and lubricant is pretty good stuff, it makes my 710 hilariously fast. Plus it smells nice!

Dec 26, 2010

We're in the business of extending man's senses.

Kukri owner checking in (with a knifewich)

Bought it at a Presbyterian church rummage sale, of all places. It's got a pattern of punched dimples on it, and says "India" in dimples on one side. Those grey pitted spots were rusty, but I ran it through a bucket of rebar and electricity and got rid of that.

It's hilariously dull, though. Maybe I'll sharpen it soon so I can use it for branches in Da Woodz.

atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Jun 7, 2011

May 11, 2005

Phoenixes we can believe in

Grimey Drawer

I have a Camillus knife (multi tool style, knife, can opener, bottle opener, awl) from when I lived... in Camillus. It's served me well over the past decade... except the time it tried to cut off my finger. It's no longer as sharp as it once was, I probably should sharpen it, but I did at one point cut through some old computer parts. And stabbed a Hard Drive. And it's still going strong.

This thread is awesome, will likely actually sharpen my blade now.

That would explain why I can't find my knife on their site.

1st_Panzer_Div. fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Jun 9, 2011

Jul 11, 2001

1st_Panzer_Div. posted:

I have a Camillus knife (multi tool style, knife, can opener, bottle opener, awl) from when I lived... in Camillus. It's served me well over the past decade... except the time it tried to cut off my finger. It's no longer as sharp as it once was, I probably should sharpen it, but I did at one point cut through some old computer parts. And stabbed a Hard Drive. And it's still going strong.

This thread is awesome, will likely actually sharpen my blade now.

The current Camillus is currently run by Acme, who bought the rights to the name after Camillus went bankrupt and closed in 2007.

See also Imperial Schrade, now owned by Taylor Brands.

Mar 27, 2003

Capturing the moment from hair-loopies to big bellies.

Hot drat, look at that shiny new first post!

Feb 8, 2008

Gtab posted:

First, I can feel SubG's heart sinking for your lack of mentioning CCK's cleaver.
Second, how do you not mention the Griptilian and Delica in addition to the Leek in the folding knife section? You know, aside from how much you hate Spyderco.

Jun 15, 2008

I found the DVD that came with my Spyderco sharpmaker the other day. Want me to upload it to the youtubes?

Dec 20, 2003

Fish out of water

Cool info, Gtab. Seriously. A lot of the terminology escapes me, so it's nice to have a run-down on a lot of what these things mean in practical terms.

The last knife thread did get a little overwhelming. I have a CRKT M-16 that I carry around with me, and I love the hell out of it, though possibly because I've never owned a better knife than that. I also have a Ka-bar that I bought for shits and giggles. It lives on my kitchen table, and its purpose is to cut the foil off of wine bottles, which it does with gusto.

Sometimes I have to chuckle at a knife made to kill enemies of the US foreign and domestic relegated to making Trader Joe's bargain-bin wine ready for the corkscrew.

Although it's pretty funny. Any time my gf or friends pick it up for exactly that purpose, I can't help but see the imposing-looking blade and say, "Be careful with that."

May 26, 2004

you are a filth wizard, friend only to the grumpig and the rattata

That's a really great OP. Count me in on a Benchmade 710. This little knife I've had for 20 years is long overdue for replacement.

Laser Cow
Feb 22, 2006

Just like real cows!

Only with lasers.

I'm going reindeer hunting, I want a fixed blade knife for all those animal specific jobs. What knife do I need? Bonus points for classy.

mom and dad fight a lot
Sep 21, 2006

twenty-six characters long

For , Warriors and Wonders is a pretty good knife dealer with decent prices. I've bought most of my knives and multitools from there.

Kim Jong ill
Jul 28, 2010


Straight shaver checking in

Dovo special with imitation tortoise shell scales.

Bought 9-12 months ago from the same store as mentioned on the strop; Straight razor designs.

Provides a great shave but I don't have the skill of equipment to sharpen it, which in my country means sending it interstate and paying a nice little fee to have it done for me.

Dec 31, 2007

The world is a brighter place with a Leatherman Wave in your pocket.

Laser Cow
Feb 22, 2006

Just like real cows!

Only with lasers.

Has anyone got anything to say about Brusletto knives?

Am looking at this right now.

Mar 27, 2007

What are you lookin at...

I got my new spyderco paramilitary 2
things I like:

Factory edge
Pocket clip can be relocated. Everywhere.

Still not sure about:
Blade shape
Hole rather than stud

Knifeworks sent me a stupid black coated blade model when I ordered plain stainless

Going hunting in the morning, hopefully will get to test it out. It's larger than I expected yet the blade seems smaller. Feels great though, infinitely better balance and grip than my BM551

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust

I love my Para 2. The only thing I'm hesitant about is that the tip is a little thinner and pointier than I would like. What don't you like about the blade shape?

Sexual Lorax
Mar 17, 2004


Fun Shoe

If the OP has you thinking about getting your first real knife, the Spyderco Native is what you want. Really.

Your second real knife should be a Spyderco Sharpmaker (which, to wreck the joke, is not a knife at all, but a sharpener to love and pet and cherish and hold your Native and call it George).

After that, get what you want. I picked up a little Boker Subcom, which folded is the exact same height and width as a Zippo. It's nowhere near the knife that the Native is, but it makes a fun little cash clip.

I want my next stabby to be an axis lock. From what I've read, it's going to be a Mini Griptilian.

Jun 27, 2007

Sexual Lorax posted:

I want my next stabby to be an axis lock. From what I've read, it's going to be a Mini Griptilian.

I have the regular Griptilian and I love it.


Jan 22, 2009

Australia cares about cunts. Including this one.

I every day carry a Gerber multitool and it is awesome. I broke every screwdriver and the knife on it like a gorilla and Gerber replaced all of it for free!

Ha the only picture I have of it is in it's holster.

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