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I really want to get a PS90 but I'm disheartened by 5.7x28 being practically impossible to buy over the counter here in Europe and everything I hear about it being a giant pain in the rear end to reload.
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# ? Apr 14, 2021 01:14 |
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New favorite case prep tool: drill press. Got a Frankford Arsenal drill mounted trimmer and obviously that worked as intended, but figured hey why don't I just chuck up the primer pocket reamer (5.56 range pickups) and then chamfer/debur tools while I'm at it. I swear I did every step in the amount of time it normally takes to do one.
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Yeah, I read a tiny bit about 5.7 years ago and noped right the gently caress out of the whole cartridge because no way I'm shooting something that load sensitive. Reading about reloaders doing it got me nervous about even factory ammo.
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Collateral Damage posted:I really want to get a PS90 but I'm disheartened by 5.7x28 being practically impossible to buy over the counter here in Europe and everything I hear about it being a giant pain in the rear end to reload. I treat it like match ammo when I do reload it. Typically I'll wait till I have ~500 cases and leasurely spend a day reloading them. Biggest thing for me is individually weighing out the charges *JUST* to make sure. the P90 isn't the major concern about having a KB situation since it's blowback. It's the FN 5.7 and it's locked breach. I know I *could* run my reloads through the FN 5.7 but so far I just run the factory through it and run reloads through my P90. Cyrano4747 posted:Yeah, I read a tiny bit about 5.7 years ago and noped right the gently caress out of the whole cartridge because no way I'm shooting something that load sensitive. I quit shooing the american eagle factory ammo. the FN ammo is easily among the most consistent ammo I've shot. Including the things I reload. The American Eagle... I haven't had any issues with it but you can tell that it's not as consistent. When you're feeling the recoil change between shots it's a bit nerve wracking knowing the round. *speculation* They also load it to a reduced velocity so I'm wondering if their QC couldn't *quite* keep it consistent enough to stay on par with FN and they downloaded it just in case.
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I know it's a lot harder to kaboom a blowback gun, but that's still a 50,000psi explosion with an unlocked breech. I'm good.
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Cyrano4747 posted:Yeah, I read a tiny bit about 5.7 years ago and noped right the gently caress out of the whole cartridge because no way I'm shooting something that load sensitive. This is me on this cartridge I load some of my rounds pretty hot loads and I'm fine with it. Say this weekend I ran into a batch of .45acp I loaded with Blue Dot and I won't post the load data but the load was "holy poo poo hot" weird primer deformations and extractor swipes. But me being an idiot shot all 200 rounds. In the notebook, I keep for my load data I put "you're a loving idiot and nope" I knew the gun I was shooting this load out of could take the abuse and I'm a cheap bastard and didn't want to pull all of it. I just cannot do this with this round a fellow goon left me about 300 casing of 5.7 I will not touch this round I gave the shells away and will nope right out and the reason I don't own a 5.7 chambered gun it's just not a forgiving reload and the line from "oh everything is fine" to "gently caress where are my fingers" is pretty dame close along with the coating on the case and I wet tumble just something I do not want to gently caress with at all. I push the limits but 5.7 is just too many factors to keep safe.
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I lucked into a bunch of free 9mm brass. The catch? It’s got crimped primer pockets. That’s something the previous owner didn’t want to deal with. Me, though? I have the time and the technology. ![]()
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infrared35 posted:I lucked into a bunch of free 9mm brass. The catch? It’s got crimped primer pockets. That’s something the previous owner didn’t want to deal with. Me, though? I have the time and the technology. Gross. You need a super Swage ![]() 9mm brass is so common I just stash crimped pocket for trade.
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Dalaram posted:Gross. You need a super Swage I had one for a while and all it did was annoy me. No idea what I was doing wrong.
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Dalaram posted:Gross. You need a super Swage I... I just realized something. It wouldn't be *that* hard to make custom bottom plates for my hornady primer pocket swager. (the one that goes on the progressive press) hhhmmmmm
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Can anyone with more experience than I give thoughts on the brass on the left here. I think based on head stamps the far left 2 are factory supers through my AR and the middle right is likely hand loaded subs. The far right will be subs from a bolt action so not worried about those. Will I be able to safely salvage cases with that much bend in the neck? I have a mixed bag of cases like these from a day shooting a mixture of 300bo super/subs and AR/bolt action with my first supressor. Side note CFEBLK is smokey as hell but functioned flawless for me enough that I'm thinking increasing the buffer will help with case damage? I had no cycling issues whatsoever even down to <900fps. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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If it comes out of the sizer without a crack, then it's fine. If you're really worried about it, anneal the neck and shoulder first.
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MazeOfTzeentch posted:If it comes out of the sizer without a crack, then it's fine. If you're really worried about it, anneal the neck and shoulder first. ^^ seconding this. If you're particularly worried also run a sharpened paperclip along the ID. If there's a crack on the inside it'll catch on it. (Usually the cracks will be very obvious though)
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Thanks I'll process them all and check them after. I've gathered the kit off and on for years but first time actually reloading. Didn't want to regret doing something simple that I may not have noticed or didn't know better.
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Dabbling with expander mandrels, there really appears to be a there there. Nevermind the alleged benefits to accuracy, it's just so much smoother than using the usual button on the sizing die. It's an extra operation, but particularly if you've got an open slot on a progressive press it's a no brainer. Bonus if you have a collet style bullet puller you can just get a $3 pin gage on Amazon and use that to expand. I didn't so went with the dedicated expander die, but that's a cheap option if you do.
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MoonCricket posted:Can anyone with more experience than I give thoughts on the brass on the left here. I think based on head stamps the far left 2 are factory supers through my AR and the middle right is likely hand loaded subs. The far right will be subs from a bolt action so not worried about those. Will I be able to safely salvage cases with that much bend in the neck? I have a mixed bag of cases like these from a day shooting a mixture of 300bo super/subs and AR/bolt action with my first supressor. All the CFE powders are sooty, its the anti copper fouling agent.
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Been hiding in my work black hole but I have finally finished my new reloading bench this weekend and the total setup. I'm pretty stoked about this entire black hole of money it's like a boat but shits out rounds. The new reloading bench still needs some work but for now, it's useable ![]() The Autotrickler in action: https://i.imgur.com/vGIw817.mp4 and finally RCBS Gold Match Dies: https://i.imgur.com/LiW5wYt.mp4 Been a bit but while I get my downtime at work I was able to build this. Just cracking out 500 rounds in under an hour this setup is proving it was with the cash I dumped into it. Reloading bench is a bit small I can fix that later.
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Bogon posted:Been hiding in my work black hole but I have finally finished my new reloading bench this weekend and the total setup. I'm pretty stoked about this entire black hole of money it's like a boat but shits out rounds. Mandatory music https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9-7uLg-DZU
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I want a better press. I tried my newest set of 38 Specials and they had a 20% failure to fire rate. Closer inspection showed slight primer seating variances despite me throwing the same lever pull each time. Slight enough to pass first inspection but apparently just enough for FTF. This is a (discontinued) Lyman Crusher Pro complete set I got from Gander Mountain for a whopping $50 while they were going out of business. It was one of the floor display models. The shell holders are wiggly despite replacing the springs twice and require manual guidance into the dies, the handle has a habit of unscrewing while throwing and now it has the primer seating issues. Plus it's just awkward to use. Fare thee well, Crusher. It was a fun learning experience but now I need to abandon my heavily discounted child at the scrap yard because like hell I want anyone else assembling rounds with it.
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Missing Name posted:Fare thee well, Crusher. It was a fun learning experience but now I need to abandon my heavily discounted child at the scrap yard because like hell I want anyone else assembling rounds with it. They're out of stock on everything (like everyone else), but I bet if you wrote to Lyman about it they'd offer you a discount voucher on backordering one of their newer presses. Maybe leave out the price you paid. Yond Cassius fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Mar 16, 2021 |
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Missing Name posted:I want a better press. I tried my newest set of 38 Specials and they had a 20% failure to fire rate. Closer inspection showed slight primer seating variances despite me throwing the same lever pull each time. Slight enough to pass first inspection but apparently just enough for FTF. If you're going to get rid of it cheap DM me. Been keeping half an eye out to make a franken press dedicated to bullet swaging
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Missing Name posted:I want a better press. I tried my newest set of 38 Specials and they had a 20% failure to fire rate. Closer inspection showed slight primer seating variances despite me throwing the same lever pull each time. Slight enough to pass first inspection but apparently just enough for FTF. Sounds like it's got other issues, but I never prime on the press anyway. Really liking the frankford arsenal priming tool, but before you got that actually used a Lee hand press (thigh master) that worked well for that too. Also, if your shooting revolver light strikes are super common if the hammer spring is lightened at all. Have you had any issues with factory, and what brand of primers?
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Yeah, I only use Lee reloading equipment myself, and while I do have occasional issues with seating depth consistency (with some finicky cartridges) that are more annoying than dangerous, the one thing I've never had issues with is primers being seated so deeply or otherwise badly that they won't even fire. And the Lee New Auto Prime Tool is really good at smooshing those primers a little bit during seating. I've had two rounds fail on me since I started reloading, and both were undercharges caused by a flawed technique and lack of diligence on my part. They fired, but the bullet didn't make it out of the barrel. Could the primers be bad?
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Primers are ÇCI 500. Factory ammo is fine, as were my previous set of reloads with the same batch. Rounds were fired out of both a S&W 36 and 64 with factory springs and the same failure rate. Inspection of FTF rounds did indeed show light strikes. A second strike was able to fire all of the initial duds, as I assume the first strike was what finally seated the primer. Definitely thinking I want an RCBS primer at this point.
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CCIs are going to give you the smallest margin for error with revolvers but if a 2nd strike set them off it's probably seating depth. Been loading mostly rifle so was thinking about that for my answer but for pistol I do seat in press on my square deal and I seat the shiiiiiit out of those things for shooting revolver. Just about lifting my workbench off the ground lol. And that's with Federals, but I am also running lighter springs. My guess is you're just stacking tolerances with shallow seating and then compounded by using harder primers. If you can't seat them deeper with a little oomf probably worthwhile to get a standalone primer tool. Like I said I'm super happy with the Frankford Arsenal one. Built like a tank and has adjustable seating depth, although I just end up seating it to the deepest setting and call it a day. Specifically for Smiths make sure the strain screw is tight too. You'd see it happen for factory too but than can change things fast of it backs out at all. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Mar 17, 2021 |
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Range is finally melted out enough I could get down there and test my new 458 Socom loads I worked up over the winter 510gr cast bullet going 1350fps has a fair bit of recoil, and it knocked over my steel 2/3rd size IPSC target at 100y even with it staked down ![]() hell yeah Still working on the Hornady #4500 and #4502 loads
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We now have an index thread so you can find megathreads fast. Bookmark it or something, IDK.
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So you guys who reload 6.5 Creedmoor what powder are you using? Went to the range yesterday with 200 rounds in 50 round batches split between 130 and 140gr ELD using H4350 and IMR4350 for my AR-10 groups were ugly best was IMR4350 at .90 inches wondering if something is wrong with my Faxon AR10 barrel some groups were great but then random-rear end flyer that would just junk the entire group to 2 inches. Kinda frustrating may try Varget and N140 Next to see if they do any better.
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Not Creedmoor but have had really good luck with IMR 4451 in my 6x47 Lapua so far. Basically same thing as 4350. Considering 4350 is the gold standard for Creedmoor my guess is that's not the variable holding you back. Honestly to me if a powder is getting me good SD/ES and the velocity is what I want it's doing its job. Grouping from there is more bullet/barrel match and tuning your seating depth.
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Anyone had any luck buying primers on Gunbroker? My stockpile is running low and I was checking local listings like Texasguntrader hoping to pick some up locally. There were an absolutely astounding number of obvious scams. It seems like Gunbroker has a decent selection of large rifle primers and the listings seem to be honest, but then again I dont have much experience buying reloading supplies online so Im not sure how exactly to avoid getting ripped off here.
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DapperDraculaDeer posted:Anyone had any luck buying primers on Gunbroker? My stockpile is running low and I was checking local listings like Texasguntrader hoping to pick some up locally. There were an absolutely astounding number of obvious scams. It seems like Gunbroker has a decent selection of large rifle primers and the listings seem to be honest, but then again I dont have much experience buying reloading supplies online so Im not sure how exactly to avoid getting ripped off here. Everything on Gunbroker is insanely overpriced. You can still get primers for close to regular price plus hazmat shipping from some websites. There are a few reloading discords that post up availability that are not too hard to find. I found a good one from r/reloading and have gotten a few thousand primers at reasonable prices all things considered
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Thanks for that. I was bracing myself to pay .15-.25 per primer on Gunbroker since things sell out so quick. Ill definitely see if I can find something on Discord first before allowing myself to be gouged that badly.
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I'm bad at discord. Successfully logging in always feels almost accidental; I joined the TFR one at some point, or reserved my username or whatever they call it, but it's a lot to keep up with. Just getting into it was confusing because the directions only kinda-worked. I think I had to have someone walk me through it. Does the TFR reloading discord have good leads? If like to score some SPPs. I'm down to 300.
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The reloading discord is the only one that I’ve ever had any luck with. The TFR one is basically links from other sites/discords I guess because they are usually gone by the time we get them.
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Ammoseek alerts are your friend.
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I don't remember if I ever did a review on the Mighty Armory Decapping Die. But if I did here is another review it will be quick. Decided after finishing another project with work I need to work off some frustration decapping and resizing some 44mag brass anyway about 600 shells into the session my press locked up. Looked at the Decapping die found this guy stuck on it![]() Checked the brass in all the stages they were all decapped not only did this die decap the 44mag but went screw you SP primer you are in my way. The decapping pin was intact I pulled off the 9mm case and kept going.
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Yeah, I am in the process of prepping some brass, and maybe finding some primers. I got out the old vibrating tumbler for the pre-clean. But, because of stuff like this, I always separate my brass and tumble the 44 magnum/special and 45 ACP separately from the 9 mm, 38 special, 357 magnum, and 223 Remington (which doesn't mess with those pistol calibers, believe it or not). Also, I've had a couple of 9 mm shells really get jammed into a 45 shell or two with media. It's not devastating or anything, just annoying.
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Man, Midway had a huge powder drop today, although it all went in about 10 minutes. Snagged myself an 8lb jug of 4451 though, no more powder shortage for me. If you don't have ammoseek alerts active right now you're doing it wrong.
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Reloading discord is way faster to get notifications. I’ve been flush on varget because of that discord as well as other components.
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# ? Apr 14, 2021 01:14 |
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Does it have Canadian stuff as well? Might have to join for that, I'm having a hell of a time finding Varget right now. I've got a pound of unopened IMR 4064 which I've heard is similar, so I might just have to bite the bullet and switch to that, then pick up an 8lb jug from Tenda if it works out.
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