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So I used my new M6 mk II this weekend. First thirty shots werethrowaway. Next 30 were a mix but then..... (Straight out of the camera JPG, didn treally try to frame properly, I'm just working on the tracking)  Short version - I think my 7D mk II which I used back to back hits more but when the M6 II hits... it REALLY knocks it out of the park.
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Oct 13, 2019 09:10
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 Not going to think for one second most of the shots I got are attractive last weekend - but after having a good look, I think the M6 II actually beat the7D mk II for keepers and overall sharpness. The only real issue was touch to focus occasionally shifted focus points where I didn't want them. Not sure what was touching the screen to do that, just something to be careful about. Once I noted that happening, a bit more care lessened the issue.
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Oct 17, 2019 09:56
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I'd imagine there's a way to disable the touch functions on the screen. That messed with me for a while.
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Oct 17, 2019 12:37
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I did a match again. Vålerenga Fotball - Stabæk 19.10.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr Vålerenga Fotball - Stabæk 19.10.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr Vålerenga Fotball - Stabæk 19.10.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr Vålerenga Fotball - Stabæk 19.10.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr
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Oct 21, 2019 12:12
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lol this is great
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Oct 21, 2019 14:26
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I wish someone would answer my emails. I have been sending messages and the like to everywhere I can think of to find work. Not a whole lot out there. Still waiting on my VA judgment, and if that falls through, I wont be upgrading any equipment. Im gonna keep looking, but man is it hard to stay motivated sometimes.
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Oct 24, 2019 18:32
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DJExile posted:I'd imagine there's a way to disable the touch functions on the screen. That messed with me for a while. No setting as such but I worked out it was mostly my strap touching the screen.      Not artistic or of a lot of value but I am coming to grips with the M6 II. Did another back to back with the 7D II and 100-400 L II and once again better results. However while I didnt for one second care about the flying crap while using the 7D II, I was covering the M6 II all the time. Also... I *really* appreciated the extra weight trying to control the big rear end lens. I have not any panning as good as the 7D II as yet - mostly just due to tracking not set correctly and also not following the subject with the lens well (aka operator error) Soulex posted:I wish someone would answer my emails. I have been sending messages and the like to everywhere I can think of to find work. Not a whole lot out there. Hey yo I hear ya. It always comes in fits and bursts and people really dont reply :/. Keep forging forward tho, your photos are great
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Oct 28, 2019 09:51
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Didn’t see this answered in the op, but x-posting from the general questions thread: First, are there any good resources — books, blogs, etc — for the tactics of shooting team sports? Not just camera settings, but other advice. Where to locate yourself for a given activity, what to shoot (“two players and a ball”), etc. I know that “knowing the sport” is going to be the most effective, but I’m curious if others have codified any of their learnings. Particularly for soccer. Second question: I was shooting my sons (U9) soccer game and I noticed I was having real difficulty framing shots because the action was always either moving toward me or away. In some cases I’d be zoomed to 200mm on my X-T3 when the ball would get sent down the pitch toward me (setup on one goal line). The next thing I know I’ve got four shots of a body and 1/3rd of a ball because I didn’t zoom out to 75mm or somesuch. For those who shoot a lot of team sports, short of carrying multiple bodies how do you handle zooming? Do you focus on certain areas for some amount of time, or are you constantly following the action?
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Oct 28, 2019 21:48
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Dangerllama posted:Didn’t see this answered in the op, but x-posting from the general questions thread: Where to place yourself depends on the sport itself, where you're allowed to go, what you've got with you, etc. Where you can go and what you can do in a youth or high school event is going to be wildly different from college or pro settings. Soccer is a massive field, one of the biggest in mainstream sports, which means you're going to need reach on reach. Helps a bit that your son's young so i'm sure it's not a full size field. You're going to have to keep zooming as the game goes, tracking the action and firing when you have something that fills the frame well, or is a good moment you think you can crop later.  BRW20154 by Ben Wilcox, on FlickrThis is on the long end of my 40-150mm f/2.8, I'm on the sideline probably about 25 yards from the end line.  BRW20169 by Ben Wilcox, on FlickrSame position, zoomed out to 95mm. The whole time in both shots I know I need to get full bodies since the ball is almost always on or near the ground. Fill the frame, make sure you've got faces, fire away. If you've got a prime, you're going to need to be patient. This was in some steady to driving rain, so swapping lenses wasn't going to happen. On the other hand, I've got a shitload of reach, and a sport where the ball is largely held around waist to shoulder level, so I don't need to get the full bodies of the players in the shots.Long as you can clearly tell what's happening, it works.  BRW90013 by Ben Wilcox, on Flickr BRW90318 by Ben Wilcox, on Flickr BRW90473 by Ben Wilcox, on FlickrIf you're on a zoom lens, there's really no reason you shouldn't be constantly ready to change the zoom of your shot in most sports. The really great moments can happen in a flash, and you've got to do what you can to make your life a little easier by keeping track of the action, knowing your speed and aperture are set right, and going on the fastest burst mode available.
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Oct 29, 2019 03:28
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Dangerllama posted:Didn’t see this answered in the op, but x-posting from the general questions thread: Throwing my two badly worn cents into this. I'll start off by seconding what DJExile said, and add that for soccer I find it useful to move up and down the pitch depending on what I'm looking for and who I'm shooting. I'm lucky enough that I get to roam around the entire field so I usually set up shop by the midfield to get some of the early fight for possession, easy access to the coaches and shots of tired or disappointed players.  I'll hang around there for maybe 10-15 minutes minutes before I move on to one of the ends, which tends to be the end that "my team" is attacking towards as you can get some really good action shots there and everyone wants to see the goal and/or goal celebration.   The edge of the penalty box being a personal favourite spot of mine as you get both the attackers and defenders looking towards the camera. 
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Oct 29, 2019 14:51
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I’m discovering as I’m looking at these vs my images that my backgrounds are substantially more noisy. Perhaps I need to move to aperture priority mode and also start being aware of what’s behind what I’m shooting. Thanks for the advice. This is good stuff.
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Oct 29, 2019 23:04
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Dangerllama posted:I’m discovering as I’m looking at these vs my images that my backgrounds are substantially more noisy. Perhaps I need to move to aperture priority mode and also start being aware of what’s behind what I’m shooting. I'm shooting mostly in manual. I set the camera to 1/1000 or so shutter speed and move the ISO/aperture up and down.
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Oct 30, 2019 11:51
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Yeah backgrounds are really important. If you don't have a fast aperture lens, then you really need to consider what's on the other side of the field from you. Cars, team benches, etc. 00000019 by Ben Wilcox, on FlickrIf this wasn't at f/2.8, it'd be a total mess. Heck, it still kind of is, but part of that is the film just going  HOLY poo poo COLOR and the scan not being great
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Oct 30, 2019 13:41
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DJExile posted:Yeah backgrounds are really important. If you don't have a fast aperture lens, then you really need to consider what's on the other side of the field from you. Cars, team benches, etc. It's something about the colors that says "70s" for me. I love it. I did a football match again.  Vålerenga Fotball - SK Brann 03.11.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr Vålerenga Fotball - SK Brann 03.11.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr Vålerenga Fotball - SK Brann 03.11.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr Vålerenga Fotball - SK Brann 03.11.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr Vålerenga Fotball - SK Brann 03.11.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr Vålerenga Fotball - SK Brann 03.11.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr Vålerenga Fotball - SK Brann 03.11.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr Vålerenga Fotball - SK Brann 03.11.2019 by Eivind Hauger, on Flickr
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Nov 5, 2019 09:58
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azathosk posted:It's something about the colors that says "70s" for me. I love it. I love these. The bottom especially. I think you really did it justice by making it black and white. I hate saying it like this, but it reminds me of war, or training for it. Lots of smoke, lots of silhouettes, nothing totally clear but you get an idea. One could make am arguement about how a squad of players is akin to that of soldiers. The comraderie, cohesiveness, and synergy tested under high-stress situations. This acts as a reflection for that. Telling a story, but you have to search for it I would print that one on something nice. Not huge, but even on something unique like canvas would give it some really cool textures. Really well done
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Nov 5, 2019 17:25
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This is flat out one of the best photos I've seen in any thread, full stop. I cant tell if it's a nazi rally or a soccer march but doesnt matter. What an image!
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Nov 6, 2019 10:42
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azathosk posted:
DUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUDE 
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Nov 6, 2019 17:25
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Thank you all! I had a look at the archives and my best sports photos are mostly from the stands. I love flares.
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Nov 7, 2019 11:11
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hot drat this is fantastic
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Nov 11, 2019 00:00
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Just got back from shooting my first swim meet, it was a super fun intermurals event so there were some crazy fuckaround things like a tube relay happening. I just got done culling things, I just had a few I pulled off my fuji that I don't want to touch. It's pretty amazing how much less effort shooting an event feels when it's you're extremely familiar with. Men's relay was last and was the only really competitive part.    I need to process all of it tomorrow, I did a lot of stuff with drat near shoving my EM-1X and oly 8mm fisheye in the pool but those are definitely not hot SOOC.
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Nov 15, 2019 06:15
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How much did you crop this? I can't believe that's from a 56mm and you weren't standing in the pool...
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Nov 15, 2019 20:53
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hahahaha that tube relay is fantastic
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Nov 16, 2019 00:04
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Tube relay was probably my favorite, especially since I didn't know it was happening and was super confused at first.XBenedict posted:How much did you crop this? I can't believe that's from a 56mm and you weren't standing in the pool... That's the whole frame and SOOC, I didn't touch it at all, I just got lucky with that one. I was standing on the edge of the pool, the 56mm has 80mm equivalent fov so that's how I had the extra reach. These ones were all on the 8mm fisheye, these were super close and I was just at the edge and hanging my camera over. I was in the splash zone for most of it so I was pretty wet by the end of this. Our lead photographer had all the nice rectilinear lenses for his 1DX so I ran around with that just so we had a little more variety in photos for the department.     
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Nov 16, 2019 17:12
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I feel like the real story here is how well lit that pool is to let you get away with 800ISO and 1/1000 shutter. I'm lucky if I can ever drop below 3200ISO at the indoor events I shoot.
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Nov 16, 2019 17:25
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I'm usually a big iffy on fisheye lenses but I really like how it worked here. Really good timing and composition for the race start as well. Also was this taken at UT Austin?
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Nov 17, 2019 03:26
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Yeah this was at the Texas Swim Center, it's a super nice facility. I actually learned to dive there a long time ago when the scuba program still existed.
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Nov 17, 2019 16:20
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Atlatl posted:Yeah this was at the Texas Swim Center, it's a super nice facility. I actually learned to dive there a long time ago when the scuba program still existed. Oh cool. One of the guys who works at Precision Camera shoots their home football and basketball games on the regular. And I believe he also did a couple of sports workshops during the football season this year. Might be worth inquiring about.
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Nov 19, 2019 05:53
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Oh yeah I've met him before, if I weren't in Dallas most weekends I would have been at the last one. He's one of the actual sports department photographers though, we're all like pseudo-contractors in the RecSports department.
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Nov 19, 2019 13:18
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So I tried shooting my son’s first futsal game of the season and had some difficulty. Basic settings were f/3.5 or whatever was lowest for the focal length (Fuji 18-55). Set shutter speed to 1/250 and floated the ISO up to 6400 *all JPEG. With the shutter set to continuous high, I was still getting pretty well under-exposed images. Interestingly, the viewfinder showed a proper exposure when I half-pressed the shutter. But when I took the sequence the viewfinder immediately showed under-exposed images coming off the camera. What are the recommended next steps: - Send ISO to the moon? - Use exposure compensation? - Shoot CL instead of CH? (I don’t know how this would make a difference but asking for completeness’ sake) - Slower shutter (I’m already getting blurring at 1/250) - Buy a faster lens
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Nov 21, 2019 16:29
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Buy a faster and longer lens, pretty much.
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Nov 21, 2019 16:49
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Freezing human movement, even kid movement, pretty much needs a shutter speed of 1/400 or faster. If memory serves, futsal is purely indoors which means you're likely dealing with florescent lights, which are going to flicker, meaning you'll get both over and under exposed shots and not realize it until you see them later. Crank your ISO for one, and yeah you're going to need a lens faster than an f/3.5. Indoor sports asks the world of any camera and lens, whether it's a consumer body or something really high-end. If you don't want to spend a ton of money, i'd just enjoy the game and maybe get some video on your phone or camera every so often. Getting the body and lens combo you're going to need to get decent photos is going to cost a LOT and whether or not that's worth it for photos of your kid is your own decision, but be aware.
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Nov 21, 2019 21:10
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https://twitter.com/Meghan_Ottolini/status/1198787830551629824 fabulous shot from last night's pats/cowboys game
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Nov 25, 2019 13:34
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Dangerllama posted:So I tried shooting my son’s first futsal game of the season and had some difficulty. Basic settings were f/3.5 or whatever was lowest for the focal length (Fuji 18-55). Set shutter speed to 1/250 and floated the ISO up to 6400 *all JPEG. With the shutter set to continuous high, I was still getting pretty well under-exposed images. Interestingly, the viewfinder showed a proper exposure when I half-pressed the shutter. But when I took the sequence the viewfinder immediately showed under-exposed images coming off the camera. So, frame rate shouldn't have any affect on your exposure. I'm not sure if your camera has a "settings effect" where it adjusts the electronic viewfinder to reflect what the exposure will be when you take the photo, but if it does and you're getting underexposed images, you might be having an issue with flickering. This happens under some artificial light sources that look to be continuous to our eyes, but are in reality oscillating in power and color. When you take a photo with an exposure time shorter than its oscillation rate, you get weird color casts and the like. A lot of newer cameras have anti-flicker capture modes that time the exposure to maximize the light you get from the light sources in the scene by lining up with the oscillation rates. This improves your shot-to-shot color and exposure consistency greatly. If your images are still underexposed and you're using an automatic exposure program, your camera is just not exposing the scene properly and you should either take full manual control or else use exposure compensation to tell the camera to increase the exposure. For most action, your absolute bare minimum shutter speed is 1/500, and I typically aim for at least 1/1000. With that in mind, if you're using the fastest possible aperture you have, your only choice with the gear you currently have is to keep increasing the ISO, or else buy a different lens.
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Nov 26, 2019 16:54
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Probably a long shot, but I will be going to 10 or so wrestling events in Japan in a few months - I was looking for a point and shoot that probably has the best bet to turn our decent pictures. Would anyone have any advice for a pocket friendly camera to look at for it? will be in 20-40 thousand seat venues and then smaller 2-10k venues.
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Dec 1, 2019 00:02
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a cat youtube posted:Probably a long shot, but I will be going to 10 or so wrestling events in Japan in a few months - I was looking for a point and shoot that probably has the best bet to turn our decent pictures. If you’re fine getting holiday snaps, then I think the current recommendation for a good point and shoot is Sony’s RX100 line. If you’re going for Wrestle Kingdom, sightlines make things tough, plus there’s the awning setup around the ring that might block some views. You can get decent photos showing the scale and size of things but action shots in the ring from pedestrian seats is tough. You’ll have a lot better chance at the smaller venues.
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Dec 1, 2019 05:08
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harperdc posted:If you’re fine getting holiday snaps, then I think the current recommendation for a good point and shoot is Sony’s RX100 line. yeah I don’t expect the best from WK but hopefully better than my current terrible iPhone camera from the last few years. I was looking at Sony Rx100 Mark II (can’t afford more expensive ones), Powershot SX740, LUMIX FZ80, or splurging on a Ricoh GR mark II
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Dec 2, 2019 17:03
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you're going to be asking a LOT of any point-and-shoot for wrestling photos from the stands, FYI. If you've got other uses for the camera in your travels, then go to town, but I feel like you're throwing good money after bad if all you want it for is the wrestling photos. E: I don't mean to poo poo on your idea or anything, I just don't want to see you drop the money and then be disappointed in what you get. Most lighting setups for wrestling/boxing are really rough for even the highest-end camera bodies held by the photographers right up against the ring, to say nothing of the people in the stands. Those pocketable P&S cameras are still plenty nice to have for other travel shots though, so if you've got other sights to see, I think you'll enjoy it. DJExile fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Dec 2, 2019 |
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Dec 2, 2019 17:26
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DJExile posted:you're going to be asking a LOT of any point-and-shoot for wrestling photos from the stands, FYI. I’ll be at some very small Venues up close too but this will just be a general travel camera as well. Some thing I could put in my pocket on the go.
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Dec 2, 2019 18:37
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a cat youtube posted:I’ll be at some very small Venues up close too but this will just be a general travel camera as well. Some thing I could put in my pocket on the go. Then yeah go to town! It'll still be hit and miss in the smaller venues but as an overall travel camera those are all good options
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Dec 2, 2019 20:44
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 V8 Commodore having fun
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Dec 5, 2019 12:14
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