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BobHoward posted:I can't imagine a 3D printer making a very useful keyboard key. The mech-E guys at work have a Stratasys Objet high resolution printer. It could probably replicate a key, but the reason it's high res is that it's based on curing photopolymer plastic with UV light, and unfortunately that type of plastic is so brittle and weak the key would break in no time. We use PLA in ours for air quality reasons and the strength of the tabs is definitely a concern, I just thought it'd be worth a try. Apple Store is the answer, though. I think the texture would be fine, the keys are flat so it's just going to be bridged flat over the infill, which feels pretty much like smooth plastic. I think it's such a thin object that the whole thing would be pretty much solid anyway, though, which does nothing to help with delaminating or the lovely brittle nature of the material.
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Jul 19, 2016 06:16
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tuyop posted:We use PLA in ours for air quality reasons and the strength of the tabs is definitely a concern, I just thought it'd be worth a try. Apple Store is the answer, though. That Objet UV printer I mentioned can make parts with a glossy smooth finish (on one side anyways -- the side that has to be filled in with support material during printing is always a bit rougher). Too bad anything with a web thickness less than maybe a tenth inch might decide to crack just because you looked at it wrong. It's a great printer for making highly accurate parts to test assemble, but if you want to build a working prototype, it had better not need to stand up to much mechanical stress. When they don't have any immediate need to use it for real work, they end up printing random toy figurines from thingiverse or whatever. You have to print something on a regular basis or risk the equivalent of clogging your inkjet's nozzles (but way more expensive to deal with, or so I presume). (ps drat it apple release the skylake macbooks already so we don't have to derail about 3d printing)
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Jul 19, 2016 07:03
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I was thinking about picking up a used 15" Retina because I've seen them < $1000 Any certain ones to avoid? HD4000+650 too old? Even if I don't plan on gaming (other than emulators and stuff), will I kill myself for getting the integrated graphics-only model?
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Jul 19, 2016 13:34
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Bob Morales posted:Even if I don't plan on gaming (other than emulators and stuff), will I kill myself for getting the integrated graphics-only model? No, because if anything the battery life will be somewhat better over one with the discrete GPU.
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Jul 19, 2016 16:22
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Bob Morales posted:I was thinking about picking up a used 15" Retina because I've seen them < $1000 If they're cheap enough go for it. My rmbp is a little over four years old at this point and aside from gaming (and even then it does poo poo like d3 and indie games just fine) it works a treat. I want to upgrade when the new ones come out but I can't really justify it since this still works well so I'll probably keep it at least another year, maybe two. My singular complaint is probably that 4K over DisplayPort only hits 30fps on this model.
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Jul 19, 2016 16:43
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Binary Badger posted:No, because if anything the battery life will be somewhat better over one with the discrete GPU.
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Jul 19, 2016 18:17
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japtor posted:And one less part to fail! Honestly, this is a serious consideration, given the past few generations.
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Jul 19, 2016 18:46
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mediaphage posted:My singular complaint is probably that 4K over DisplayPort only hits 30fps on this model. This is the only real caveat (depending on year, I think the 2015s are ok) if you're not using it for games.
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Jul 19, 2016 20:48
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Probably gonna be at least two or three more iterations before Intel refines their integrated GPUs up to the point where they can refresh a 4K screen at anything but 30 Hz.. unless I'm dumb and they have an Iris 6800 or 7000 already shipping that does.
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Jul 20, 2016 02:16
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Binary Badger posted:Probably gonna be at least two or three more iterations before Intel refines their integrated GPUs up to the point where they can refresh a 4K screen at anything but 30 Hz.. unless I'm dumb and they have an Iris 6800 or 7000 already shipping that does. http://9to5mac.com/2016/06/04/how-to-enable-4k-60hz-resolution-2016-macbook/
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Jul 20, 2016 04:17
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I've been using 4k30 (in windows) at work for a month or two and honestly it's not that bad for exclusively desktop use. Certainly not a dealbreaker, at least for me.
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Jul 20, 2016 12:56
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I'm not even sure this exists but I'll ask anyway. I can't seem to find anything. Is there a MacBook charger that is also a battery bank with a USB-C and regular USB port on it? I'd really love to have a battery backup for my MBr and iPhone. MY problem with standalon battery banks is I always forget to charge them up. Having a combo would be aces since it would always stay charged.
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Jul 20, 2016 16:18
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LmaoTheKid posted:I'm not even sure this exists but I'll ask anyway. I can't seem to find anything. I think that came about largely because of the single usb slot on the surface, so maybe apple will get there too once they go single port or soon after.
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Jul 20, 2016 18:13
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Yes, the current models even officially support 60Hz for some displays, at least in the 15-inch models.
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Jul 20, 2016 18:14
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LmaoTheKid posted:I'm not even sure this exists but I'll ask anyway. I can't seem to find anything. This is a battery pack that is already being used to charge MacBooks for about $60. It has multiple output ports so you could charge your MacBook and iPhone at the same time. You can combine this with any of the USB-C hubs out there (I like the Minix Neo C) to give you a dongel-ly full slew of ports on 2015-2016 MacBooks. Caveats about the Anker PowerCore: it won't charge at the full speed of an Apple AC adapter and it'll eat up 90% of the battery to do a full charge of a MacBook, if the MacBook is at zero % charge. Some reviewers have stated you can't run the MacBook -and- charge the battery, as in the MacBook has to be powered down for the charging to be effective with this battery. Also, it takes 11-12 hours with a 2A charger (which is not included) to charge the battery fully. There's also this, but hoo boy you better have a lot of $$$ to afford this (maybe about $170 total.) Binary Badger fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Jul 20, 2016 |
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Jul 20, 2016 19:57
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Binary Badger posted:Probably gonna be at least two or three more iterations before Intel refines their integrated GPUs up to the point where they can refresh a 4K screen at anything but 30 Hz.. unless I'm dumb and they have an Iris 6800 or 7000 already shipping that does. All models Broadwell and newer can do this on DisplayPort, I believe. Haswell might be able to as well. For HDMI, it looks like Kaby Lake will probably support HDMI 2.0 integrated on all models if the new NUCs are any indication since even the i3 and Atom models have 2.0.
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Jul 20, 2016 20:49
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Looks like anything from this year & last year should be able to push it via DP. Iris 6100 can - apparently - drive 2x 4k60hz.
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Jul 21, 2016 10:05
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Not sure why we're discussing it when there's facts here https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT206587
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Jul 21, 2016 18:46
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I have a 27" late 2015 iMac w/2tb fusion drive. Went to install bootcamp on it earlier and created a 500gig partition. Rebooted, went to install Windows on the 500gb bootcamp partition and it seemed to break everything. As usual, I formatted the 500gig partition and went to install Windows, and it said "We couldn't create a new parition or locate an existing one." Ok, that's new. I rebooted, went to remove bootcamp and it won't let me. Said something about can't find the partition. I found some terminal commands via google, tried them in recovery or whatever, nothing worked. I had two separate partitions, including the isolated bootcamp one that I couldn't do anything with. Ended up finally deleting all partitions, nuking everything and re-installed El Capitan to the 128gig SSD portion of the fusion drive. Now I'm re-installing everything from a time machine backup. Um, does bootcamp/Windows not work on the fusion drive? Apple's FAQ just says it works fine, but I disagree. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201456 I'm guessing it's because of some issues with the hybrid setup? I'd like to just install bootcamp on a separate 500gig partition, but can't get it to install. Unsure why. Any ideas? Edit: further reading now suggests my 2tb fusion drive should show as one logical drive...this makes me nervous I broke something. I have two drives, one 128ssd and one 2tb platter. poo poo. https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/my-windows-10-boot-camp-experience-late-2015-imac-5k-fusion-debnam hotsauce fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Jul 21, 2016 |
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Jul 21, 2016 21:44
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hotsauce posted:I'm guessing it's because of some issues with the hybrid setup? I'd like to just install bootcamp on a separate 500gig partition, but can't get it to install. Unsure why. Any ideas? Windows is just going to see the HD and install onto a partition of it.
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Jul 21, 2016 21:47
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Well it looks like OS X isn't capable of repairing a fusion drive setup (to show as one logical partition). I have the joy of trudging through these terminal commands, wish me luck. (I'm aware this issue quickly turned into haus of tech support, forgive me, I'm done posting here) http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/168723/i-think-i-messed-up-the-fusion-drive-on-my-1tb-imac-with-bootcamp Edit: Apple stand fixed it right up in 45 minutes. Whew. hotsauce fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Jul 22, 2016 |
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Jul 21, 2016 22:15
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double post
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Jul 21, 2016 22:15
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MrBond posted:Not sure why we're discussing it when there's facts here https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT206587 Because it's wrong; it works on the 2012 rMBP fine too, albeit sst at 30hz. Some other macs may, too. So it warrants other discussion.
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Jul 22, 2016 15:57
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Holy loving poo poo. What is it on Apple earbuds that causes iTunes to open up/play/stop playing/do anything? Every time I move my head or adjust slightly loving iTunes opens and starts blaring music and I am getting incredibly sick of it. Is there a way to disable this stupid functionality?
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Jul 22, 2016 20:02
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Pollyanna posted:Holy loving poo poo. What is it on Apple earbuds that causes iTunes to open up/play/stop playing/do anything? Every time I move my head or adjust slightly loving iTunes opens and starts blaring music and I am getting incredibly sick of it. Is there a way to disable this stupid functionality? That's not "functionality", it's "your earbuds are broken".
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Jul 22, 2016 20:10
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Roadie posted:That's not "functionality", it's "your earbuds are broken". Yeah, unless you're constantly accidentally hitting the buttons on the in-line remote, get them exchanged.
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Jul 22, 2016 20:21
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mediaphage posted:Because it's wrong; it works on the 2012 rMBP fine too, albeit sst at 30hz. Some other macs may, too. So it warrants other discussion. Boo-urns  So much for definitive documentation.
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Jul 22, 2016 20:28
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Pollyanna posted:Holy loving poo poo. What is it on Apple earbuds that causes iTunes to open up/play/stop playing/do anything? Every time I move my head or adjust slightly loving iTunes opens and starts blaring music and I am getting incredibly sick of it. Is there a way to disable this stupid functionality? I love how you're that angry and don't realize your headphones are broken, and instead think that's normal behavior. Also you spent that much time writing about it.
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Jul 22, 2016 20:38
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Dr. Video Games 0050 posted:I love how you're that angry and don't realize your headphones are broken, and instead think that's normal behavior. Also you spent that much time writing about it. Hey, I had to check. Apple's done stupid poo poo before. Anyway, it seems like the actual wires inside the earbuds weren't the problem. I fixed it (as far as I can tell) by cleaning the seams on the remote buttons.
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Jul 23, 2016 15:34
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Is it still recommended to go to apple for a new laptop battery or are there decent aftermarket ones out there now?
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Jul 25, 2016 18:08
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Depends on laptop and model year. If it's an rMBP later than 2013, you have no choice but Apple because they glued the batteries to the top case. If it's an Air or earlier, Anker does sell some decent batteries.
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Jul 25, 2016 18:22
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It's an 09-10(?) MBP pro so the less money I can spend the better and it's an easy diy job. Is the problem with 3rd party stuff that it doesn't last as long? what are peoples issues with them? Bunch of cheap ones on Amazon have decent reviews.
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Jul 25, 2016 18:33
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NESguerilla posted:It's an 09-10(?) MBP pro so the less money I can spend the better and it's an easy diy job. Is the problem with 3rd party stuff that it doesn't last as long? what are peoples issues with them? Bunch of cheap ones on Amazon have decent reviews. I put a $30 eBay battery into a 2010 plasticbook and have had an excellent experience all around. It even claims to have more battery capacity than the original battery did new.
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Jul 25, 2016 18:50
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I can't speak for the ones on Amazon, but I've had good luck with NewerTech's batteries from OWC. http://www.macsales.com/
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Jul 25, 2016 18:51
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gyrf posted:I can't speak for the ones on Amazon, but I've had good luck with NewerTech's batteries from OWC. http://www.macsales.com/ NewerTech is good stuff - Amazon/eBay is hit or miss.
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Jul 25, 2016 18:55
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tl;dr: need to replace my 2010 Air since it's running slow and has battery/ports issues, what's the website y'all use that compares relative power of different Mac models? If I just do internet/MS Suite simple stuff, should I just get whatever's cheap on Apple Refurb or get new with an Educator discount? Me again, the guy with the 2010 MacBook Air (1.6GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, 4GB 1067 MHz DDR3) that I was having trouble with in West Africa. Turns out the main problem was a faulty power cord, the lowest I could find for an allegedly OEM one in Liberia was US$150 so I just waited until I got to Paris to get a cord and now mine works. But battery life isn't great (2 years since replacement) and my mouse no longer clicks, which googling tells me is a sign of a swollen lithium battery, so I have to do everything on "tap" setting and can't drag anymore. Between all that, often running slow on Netflix or stalling if I have lots of browser windows open, mic isn't working well and right USB port is spotty, this one is probably living on borrowed time. What's that one website y'all use, something about "nerd powerlifting" or whatever that rates the relative strength of a Mac model? Again just by reading the specs I'm not seeing a huge difference in current models but when last y'all posted hits from that site it turns out (unsurprisingly) that more current models are way more powerful. I'm looking to get a reconditioned MacBook or Air from Apple with AppleCare, aiming for something under $1000. All I use this for is basic internet browser and MS Suite stuff, so mostly want reliability and less lag. I have 128GB memory and am tempted to get 256 since I have to keep most of my music on an external drive, but is that just me being dumb and I need to just break down and move all my music and photos to Amazon Cloud and not demand huge internal memory? I can buy with an Educator discount currently, any compelling reason to buy new with that (in the next month or so) instead of a Refurb?
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Jul 26, 2016 21:06
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Any laptop right now will do what you want. I'd just get a refurb 2015 Macbook Air. I'd aim for having 8gigs RAM and 256gig SSD, but the RAM is more important than the SSD in my opinion if you need to save cost. e: get this. Free shipping and no tax and it's $1050 even. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1128913-REG/apple_z0rj_mjvg2_13_3_macbook_air_notebook.html Mu Zeta fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Jul 26, 2016 |
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Jul 26, 2016 21:17
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:What's that one website y'all use, something about "nerd powerlifting" or whatever that rates the relative strength of a Mac model?
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Jul 26, 2016 21:40
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Bob Morales posted:GeekBench! Excellent, thanks! Here's what I have more or less: quote:MacBook Air (11-inch Late 2010) Looking at something like this: quote:MacBook Air (11-inch Early 2015) So the newer computer would be largely the same except three times more-better-er? Again for just a "internet and MS Suite" guy like me, is the practical upshot just that it'll run faster with less spinning beachball, maybe do streaming more smoothly, and have years more life expectancy before it unexpectedly conks out on me when I need it most? It's just a little disappointing that when I upgraded from my 2005 iBook to my 2010 Air, it was an absolute night and day difference going from a clunky chunk of white plastic with a whirring drive to a skinny little near-silent aluminum thing. But now the same time has elapsed and I'm paying a grand for something almost identical that just presumably runs smoother and that I can expect not to keel over dead. Is there any reason to just spend $129 to replace the battery on mine (hopefully restoring function to my mouse), upload all music and photos to the cloud to minimize the load it's carrying, and try to squeeze another year or two out of it in hopes that something really awesome comes on the market in that time, or would it be pound-foolish to try to keep this thing creaking along when it's my main work computer that I use daily? TapTheForwardAssist fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Jul 26, 2016 |
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Jul 26, 2016 22:04
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Well if you want some new hotness there's the retina MBP or MacBook, which is effectively seems to be the new MBA. Both will get you a retina display, although the MB has various trade offs you’ll have to think about.
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Jul 26, 2016 22:12
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