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Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

movax posted:

I believe that external displays are always driven by the discrete GPU, so in your case that'd be the AMD GPU in your MBP. Is the MBP setup properly in display options to extend desktop, output 1920x1080/60Hz?

The 13" MBP 2011 doesn't have a discrete GPU.
http://www.apple.com/macbookpro/specs-13inch.html

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Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

brc64 posted:

This may be more of a software thing, I don't know, but some of the differences between the keyboard on my new MBA and the Windows keyboards I'm used to are starting to bug me. Things like the lack of Home and End keys (I've figured out that Command+Left and Command+Right seem to approximate this), but I haven't been able to figure out a way to do a Windows-style delete (delete the character to the right of the cursor, rather than backspace) yet. I never realized how often I used that.

Cmd+Up and Cmd+Down do Home and End, left and right move to the beginning or end of the current line.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

beefnoodle posted:

What?



Edit: I'm currently writing a book in Word (not my choice) with a template full of various published-mandated styles, and I've got Activity Monitor open on another display. I'm watching Word add and remove threads as I go about my work.

2011 13" MBA, no lag of any kind. Not sure what you're experiencing, but your diagnosis isn't the right one.

It has multiple threads but is only using one at a time, in other words it's not able to use multiple cores simultaneously.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Aardark posted:

I don't really have to coil it often, I mostly just move the computer around within my room. The same as above, it's the part closest to the MacBook that usually breaks.

I've broken one in the entire time I've had them, and that's from the very first Intel MacBook. Mine goes to gigs and gets a fair bit of abuse, so god knows how you're being that heavy handed. I've seen a fair few frayed or damaged at that same point but again, I don't think it's really a fundamental design flaw.

Also, I've seen one of those same people kill their logic board and RAM by using a knockoff power adapter that gave an irregular voltage and shot sparks eventually.


Cmdr Will Riker posted:

A lot of people only review products when they fail. I would never look at a MagSafe adapter unless mine had broken, so I'll give it five stars now because I didn't before. And mine goes with me everywhere. I packed and unpacked it 3-4 times per day until about a year ago, and now I'm down to just once or twice daily for school and work. I'm not disagreeing that yours haven't been sturdy enough, I am honestly in disbelief because mine has been so good.

This too, it's the reviews for a replacement charger so people are most likely to be looking at it once they've already managed to break one. Hardly an unbiased cross section of Apple users.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Bob Morales posted:

As a programmer and sysadmin I use it all the time, every day. The keys also behave 'the right way' in Linux, so it's OS X that's being the oddball. Open up terminal and fire up nano and the keys work as they should.

You can do this by typing Command-left or Command-right on the Mac but it's just another quirky thing to learn.

Aren't your hands closer to the Command and arrow keys than they are to PgUp/PgDown in general use? Once learned I found it a lot easier.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

beefnoodle posted:

Nope.

To expand, USB relies upon a software process that runs on the normal CPU die, where FW has it's own controller (in the majority of cases). This is why a FW400 transfer is often a lot faster and more consistent than the 'better' USB2.0 spec, and in audio you certainly don't want your monitoring to be affected by rendering out effects etc.

Any audio hardware that has moved over to USB is almost certainly just a compromise to increase potential sales to users without any access to Firewire. It's not because it's better in any way, other than ubiquity.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Bob Morales posted:

I added 2 4GB Crucial memory chips to a 27" iMac, and it randomly reboots now. It was running 2 4GB chips of some weird brand (AEON or something?) and the stock 2 2GB chips - Samsung.

I took the new ones out and put the Samsungs back in, and it's fine. Are the Crucial chips bad or do they not like that particular mix?

Try the Crucial ones on their own in the computer.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

movax posted:

I mean, they are good TN panels, but the technology itself just can't deliver good viewing angles, which is even more critical on a laptop than it is a desktop.

I can still read my 15" MBP screen perfectly well with great colour reproduction even when I'm around 70 degrees off axis, and my eyesight is terrible.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

illcendiary posted:

You should just use your laptop like you normally would and not worry about it, seriously.

Seconding this, I've had my current MBP for about 8 months and only just bothered to look - 203 cycles, if it's good for a thousand then I've got over two and a half years before I need to think about it.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009
Today, I've started losing my wireless signal. Except I haven't - the menubar item still looks lit up as normal, but pages don't load, pings fail, and when I click on the item the drop down menu states 'No networks'. If I turn it off, it won't turn back on again. No errors are displayed at any point either.

Out of curiosity, I checked the hardware profiler when the problem happened last:


Rebooting fixes the problem temporarily, and hardware profiler shows this:


I happen to have access to my flatmate's 15" i7 MBP which was purchased around four weeks after mine, and his shows this:


Basically, what the hell is going on? I've been meaning to take the machine in for a week or so after a passing Genius visit for some very minor screen discolouration, but workload at the moment means I really can't afford to be without my laptop for a full week. Any suggestions other than dashing to my nearest fruit stand tomorrow?

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Binary Badger posted:

MAC Vendor lookup says it's Apple Inc. according to the first three hex digits so something is definitely hosed.

Thanks, I kinda knew that but was hoping somebody would have some amazing alternative to having to take it in! Will try the SMC and PRAM anyway, although the 'voodoo' solutions have never really had much luck for me in the past few years.

Edit: Well, evidently I spoke way too soon!


Utter madness.

Neurophonic fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Feb 9, 2012

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009
Okay so the SMC and PRAM reset made my MBP recognise the card as an official Apple device, but it hasn't fixed the problem of it turning off and refusing to turn back on, whilst leaving the menubar item looking like normal.

Off to the fruit stand I go.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Neurophonic posted:

Today, I've started losing my wireless signal. Except I haven't - the menubar item still looks lit up as normal, but pages don't load, pings fail, and when I click on the item the drop down menu states 'No networks'. If I turn it off, it won't turn back on again. No errors are displayed at any point either.

Out of curiosity, I checked the hardware profiler when the problem happened last:


Okay guys, so I took my MBP into the Fruit Stand for this and a yellowing screen issue. Apart from them accidentally putting the standard resolution screen in as a replacement for my slightly yellowing high resolution one, they replaced the wifi card in the machine. The MAC address has changed so I'm sure they did actually do this.

I'm using it now with the standard resolution screen in whilst they wait for a replacement high res one to get in stock, and whilst everything being huge is relatively easy to adjust to, the wifi problem I had before returning again is not.

It's exactly the same behaviour as before. In the store they booted the Genius USB drive install and it seemed to be working there when it wasn't on my Lion install, and the hardware diagnostics passed fine, so they suggested it might be a software issue. I thought at the time it was nice of them to replace the wifi card anyway, just in case.

Since then I reinstalled Lion to no improvement, and thought I might as well try my luck and satisfy curiosity and give the Mountain Lion DP a go. Still no dice - it still randomly decides it's not an official Airport card, and turns itself off whilst refusing to turn back on, leaving the icon on the menubar looking like it's connected with no problems:




The problem is intermittent at best and appears to only show up with use of the connection, so it's pretty tricky for them to pin down by just leaving it on the store's wifi idling, which doesn't bode well for getting results.

I've already done the SMC/PRAM etc etc resets over and over too. I really have no idea what the hell could be causing this, and the guys in the store seemed to have never seen this behaviour either. I'm gonna be taking it back in this week for the screen to be upgraded anyway, but if they've already replaced the whole wifi assembly what else can they reasonably do?

Neurophonic fucked around with this message at 07:14 on Feb 19, 2012

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

NerdsMcGee posted:

One thing I just thought of....Did you re-import your old data after the reinstall? (Meaning did you use the migration wizard?)

Nope, fresh installs both times bar the adding of my iCloud account. I guess I'll try a clean install with a temporary new user this time, but if it's something that's coming in from iCloud's side that'd be pretty poo poo.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009
My wifi madness seems to have been fixed, following an 18 hour stint in the Fruit Stand where they replaced the screen, wifi hardware, logic board, all internal cabling and the battery for good measure.

Can't really grumble at that level of service at the end of your warranty, probably convinced me to get AppleCare for definite.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

dvision posted:

I've seen some discussion about swapping out the optical drive from the MBP (mine is late 2011) and getting a second HD. What I'd optimally like to do is get a 128 GB SSD in there and put the OS and programs on it, while leaving all the other junk on the existing HD.

So my question is, can the replacement drive in the optical bay be the boot drive? How do you make that happen without wiping the old drive first? 128gb would be my price ceiling for this and it won't hold the current HD contents.

Ninja edit: I also have boot camp on the existing HD that I'd want to continue using.

If you're in there already, it's trivial to move the current HDD into the Optibay you'll have fitted and put the SSD into the primary HDD slot.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Gism0 posted:

I suddenly remembered my macbook air has an SD card slot and was thinking about grabbing a 32GB card for extra storage, but I don't want to deal with it sticking out the side permanently.

Does anyone know of a shorter SD Card I can buy?

Some people have had success cutting up those SD to microSD adaptors which have a usb port on them, like this:
http://images.tradekool.com/80898800/Micro-Sd-Trio-3-In-1-Adaptor.jpg

Apparently you just chop of the USB plug and fire it in to your SD card slot, and it sits flush!

Might have a go at this unless anyone has any better suggestions?

edit: Thread on macrumors about it: http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1206894&page=1

I might be acting stupidly here, but if it's perfectly flush, isn't it going to be a bitch to remove?

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Peven Stan posted:

That was my first impression, but the problem has been going on for a month now. And every time I take the battery out put it back in it seems to "reseat" itself or whatever it ends up working again with no complaints.

A slow death is still a death.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Bob Morales posted:

In theory the HD 4000 would run it, but things would start to get stupid, real fast. Multiple monitors probably wouldn't even be possible, and imagine draggin a window from your ultra-hi-res 15" over to your 21" officemax 1080p special ?

Why the hell would they even offer it on a laptop? Sure, the fonts would look insanely great but other than that....It eventually makes sense and Retina displays are going to be ideal for developing Retina apps, but I don't see the 15" MBP to have it this year.

Somebody did the maths and it seems like a lot of Apple displays are already close to or better than 'Retina' anyway: http://www.tuaw.com/2012/03/01/retina-display-macs-ipads-and-hidpi-doing-the-math/

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Bob Morales posted:

His math is wonky. Look at an iPhone 4/4S and then look at your Mac's display and tell me the Mac isn't pixely as gently caress.


I'm running the MBP 15" high-res display and it looks perfectly fine to me at arm's length away from my face. If I focus hard I can definitely see individual pixels but not in general use.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

krooj posted:

True, although being a developer myself, I am still annoyed that they wasted time on those features rather than actually improving on more fundamental parts of the OS or introducing a more compelling product.

What, like all of these?
http://arstechnica.com/apple/2011/07/mac-os-x-10-7/9/

Pages 9 through 14. (As an aside, I hadn't realised quite how bad this new Ars layout was until now)

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Mu Zeta posted:

Yes to both. Switching to the discrete graphics kills battery life by more than half. Too bad Apple doesn't let you manually choose when to turn it off. You have to use a third party app to do it. I really don't need discrete graphics when I'm just using the Twitter app, Apple.

I'm fairly sure that a certain subset of Core Animation invokes the discrete card for performance reasons, the Twitter (and other apps) devs should be aware of this and work around it, in my opinion.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009
Is Memtest OS X from here http://www.memtestosx.org/joomla/index.php still the best thing to use to check for corrupt RAM?

My Early 2011 MBP literally just came back from it's oh, seventh time getting replacement hardware in the Genius Bar yesterday for a recurring but intermittent issue where either the battery or wifi card start freaking out and reporting that they're not installed or turned off/not charging, and now both of those issues have disappeared again but I'm left with laggy behaviour, distortion on iTunes audio output, and graphics corruption across the system. Have attached some screenshots but this is indicative of RAM failure in my past tech support experience, and certainly seems more prominent when running internal graphics:





(Path bar on the second shot) Another example is that there are two cursors displayed on screen during login, one that moves, and one 'dead' image.

Machine is out of warranty now and no AppleCare, but these issues started way before the warranty expired and at this point they've replaced the wifi hardware four times, the logic board once, the screen assembly twice as the first time round they stuck a normal res replacement screen on instead of the high res upgrade, and all internal cabling twice. Worked fine after that little blitz for a month or so and then the battery started going crazy, disconnecting and reseating the battery fixed that but then the wifi issue returned, and now I'm stuck with this RAM issue.

Luckily I haven't been asked to pay for anything as yet but I'd like to think that's partly due to my relatively extensive documenting of the issue in the past, so would like to test again at this point. If replacing the RAM doesn't solve everything once and for all I'd be well within reason to push for a replacement even if only a refurbed machine, right?

Neurophonic fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Nov 6, 2012

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

lowercasejames posted:

Not sure where to put this... but I've ordered quite a bit of hardware from Apple and never experienced this

...

I am going to give it 24 hours then I guess I call... my bank? Or Apple? Has anyone run into this before?

Anecdote ahoy, but this happened to a friend of mine a few years back - he cancelled the broken/failed order and placed a new one for an upgraded model at the same time over the phone. Two weeks later, both the original glitches order and the newer one arrive at the same time.

He called and they gave dates for the incorrectly delivered one to be collected three times but nobody ever came. Six months later he sold it on eBay, unopened for considerable profit.

I hated him for weeks.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Xenomorph posted:

2010 MacBook Pro, 15", anti-glare screen (1680x1050), 50% brightness.
CPU: Core i7 (Dual Core) @ 2.66 GHz

Process list (when the computer sits idle):
Firefox: ~13% CPU
kernel_task ~12% CPU
WindowServer ~10% CPU

Battery at 91% of original design (6312 mAh of 6900 mAh). I've let it drop to 0% and charge to 100% several times. It is 30 months old, and has gone through 194 load cycles.

I get ~2 hours and 40 minutes of usage from a full charge (100% -> 0%).
It takes about ~2 hours and 40 minutes to charge back to 100%
I can basically drop to 0% battery twice a day while at work.

Is this typical battery life for this type of system? I can just sit here and look at cat pictures and get no where near the "8-9 hours" I've heard advertised.

Is anything doing a lot of hard disk writes or reads in the background?

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009
Yesterday my local Apple store agreed to replace my somewhat broken, one year out of warranty Mid-2011 15" MBP. It was a recurrent but intermittent issue and had been more than 90 days since the last repair, so right now I'm pretty happy.

It's going to take 14 days to bring a replacement in though as I had BTO upgrades, and given that the machine will still be two year old spec (assuming I'm incredibly unlikely to receive a newer model?) I was thinking about selling it on and replacing it with either a 15" Retina or an Air from our UK refurb store. Prices for completed auctions on eBay for the same model peg it at a pretty small loss over the price I paid in the first place, so am very tempted.

Anybody got any recommendations for or against this? The existing machine already had to he high res screen upgrade and I have an SSD to go back in it.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Don Lapre posted:

Are they replacing the machine or the motherboard? It would be unusual for them to replace the entire machine with another 2 year old BTO.

Whole machine, I was told to bring the old machine home and carry on using it until they called me to say the new one had arrived in around two weeks' time. At that point they asked me to bring in the broken machine in box with the charger and bits that came with it.

Sadly it doesn't boot any more so that was kind of a moot gesture, and I'm confined to an iPad for everything for a bit - hence assessing whether I could manage with a lower power machine like an Air, or go for something more luxury for that extra nice feel on the occasions I need to use it.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009
Just got back from the store after receiving the call to collect a replacement machine, and they replaced my two year old MBP with the latest model, even though it was a year out of warranty. Best customer service ever.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Don Lapre posted:

When you use bootcamp osx partitions off part of the spinny drive and thats what you install windows to. it does not use fusion drive at all as fusion drive uses core storage which is part of osx.

Would it not be possible when rolling your own Fusion Drive to simply partition off a chunk of an SSD for Windows to use prior to using the Core Storage tools? I'm about to replace my optical drive in a mid-2012 15" MBP with an SSD and one of the reasons for getting the solid state in the first place was to help with game load times in Windows.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

PRADA SLUT posted:

Xbox 360 controller.

Only works when connected via USB does it not?

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Stick100 posted:

Purchasable for about $30.

On Win 7 it's not too bad to setup. On Win 8 you have to reinstall/fix the driver once every couple weeks.

I've probably spent about 6 hours over a year getting/keeping the xbox controller working.

Might just want to get the wired.

I'm willing to wager it's a lot less fun in OS X. What's wrong with a cable?

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009
I don't seem to be having much luck with Macs lately, got a new machine as mentioned a few pages back, stuck 16GB RAM and an SSD in it which was great for a few days until this afternoon when it went to sleep and didn't wake back up.

It now boots to the chime only when plugged into mains and after three or four loops of the sleep light coming on, flashing say five times rapidly, then turning back off. If its on battery it does the flashing, turns off but doesn't come back on.

Once booted the machine seems to run as normal with no errors until it sleeps. SMC reset process doesn't seem to do anything.

This is still happening with all stock kit back in the machine too. I also ran 5 loops of memtest in single user mode on the new RAM without any errors. Any suggestions before I take it back to the store yet again?

Neurophonic fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Mar 25, 2013

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Choadmaster posted:

http://support.apple.com/kb/TS4167?viewlocale=en_US&locale=en_US
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht2674

IMO most likely your RAM. You said you put the original RAM back in... are you sure you seated it firmly in the slot? If so, maybe there's something wrong with the logic board. In any case, sounds like a trip back to the store :(.

That's what I thought, and Google searches backed it up - hence waiting for hours for memtest to cycle through 5 times. But no errors, and the RAM works fine in another machine. Stock memory is definitely seated properly, and I used a spudger to do to all the internal cable shifting rather than my fingers so it's very unlikely that it was a static issue.

What's most odd is that it literally worked absolutely fine for three solid days, and I can't really see how a potentially faulty stick of RAM could murder the logic board. Even if that was the case, why the hell does it do a few boot cycles then work without any issues?

After all the problems I had before the head of the genius bar gave me his direct line so guess I might as well use it.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Binary Badger posted:

Could be a bad video card, bad logic board, or sputtering power supply.. have they switched any of those out yet?

On the old machine, yes, but this is a replacement that's less than two weeks old. I'd wager the power supply personally, it does the flashing sleep light the first boot, then powers off and does four further power on, power off cycles without sleep light flashing before booting as it would do normally.

Just ran memtest on the original RAM and that passes without error as well. Annoyingly my local store doesn't have appointments til Friday.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

kuskus posted:

I think even if someone had a 64GB 11" Air that they put a resistive touch membrane over, I'd be intrigued just so I can run the kitchen sink. But a 13" retina with touch would be an ideal testing machine.

http://www.modbook.com/modbookpro

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009
After scratching the hell out of my previous MBP, particularly on the bottom, I kind of want to get a hard case/shell for this new one (15", non-retina). Any recommendations for something thin, and relatively unnoticeable in general use? I'd quite like it to be transparent but not too glossy if possible too–which is why I haven't just bought the Speck ones in the store.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Visitor K posted:

I'm thinking of upgrading my late 2012 Mac Mini with an SSD and I have a few (a lot) of questions. If any of this should go on the SSD thread please let me know.

My plan was to get this SSD along with this kit and make a DIY Fusion Drive with the already included 1TB HDD in my mac. So, my questions are:

1) Is this even possible at all? There are a few tutorials out there but I'm hoping some of you have tried this and could tell me a bit about it :D

2) I know that SSD drives should have their firmware updated pretty regularly. I've also read that some drives are impossible to upgrade from a mac. Will it be too terrible to just upgrade it on a Win box beforehand and just living with the SSD as is or is this going to bite me in the rear end in the future?

3) I also know that TRIM is not enabled on SSDs on mac, does making a Fusion Drive affect this in any way at all? Should I enable TRIM before making the FD?

I've just done this exact thing with that exact drive, but in a MBP. It's pretty easy to make a Fusion drive from the recovery partition following a guide (print it off or look at it on your phone, it's only a few commands in Terminal) but you will need to wipe both drives to do it. I did a backup of my important media first but used the opportunity to get a clean start in terms of apps and such.

For some reason I couldn't use the online download method to restore even though this machine came with 10.8, but I used another Mac to download an ISO of 10.8 and put it onto a USB pen. You'll need one that's 8GB or more to do this I think.

You can flash the firmware from your Mac as long as you put the drive on the correct 6Gb/s port – this may mean putting your existing 1TB drive on the currently spare SATA connector. Just 'restore' the firmware update ISO for that drive onto a USB pen and boot to it by holding down the Alt key when you turn the Mac on after putting it back together. Then do the same, choose recovery and follow the Fusion guide.

Once you're back in a fresh install of OS X, run TRIM enabler and you're good to go.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Star War Sex Parrot posted:

I just set up Fusion in my iMac, and it's worth noting that you need to use a 10.8.3 image to install from.

I managed just fine with a 10.8.2 one, but did update as soon as it booted.

Neurophonic
May 2, 2009
Well balls, I couldn't find a working image of 10.8.3 at the time. Might have to wipe and reinstall again.

About This Mac does identify it as a Fusion Drive for what it's worth, although I have heard the HDD spin up once or twice despite not having filled my SSD capacity yet.

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Neurophonic
May 2, 2009

Star War Sex Parrot posted:

You can name your CS logical volume group whatever you want. The fact that it's called "Fusion Drive" means nothing and simply reflects what was typed into the Terminal.

Also you get a 10.8.3 image from the App Store.

I didn't name it fusion drive though, I explicitly chose a stupid name as I usually do for my drives.

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