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smax
Nov 9, 2009

BobHoward posted:

So if you want the flexibility of external disks or the ability to attach two or more for rotating backups, a regular Airport as a TM disk server is now something which I feel can be endorsed without much qualification when before it was pretty much "it works but don't do this if you aren't a technical user".

Agreed.

I've been using my Airport Extreme .ac with a 4TB drive to back up the 2 macs on my network and it's been working great. One day when the computer hooked up to my TV craps out I'll get a Mac Mini with OSX Server on it and use that to serve the backup disk--should be quite a bit faster. Until then, I'm happy.

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smax
Nov 9, 2009

Doctor Zero posted:

Is there a significant difference between Crucial and Samsung SSDs? Samsung seems slightly higher price wise but I'm not sure if there is something that might make that worthwhile.

Go with Samsung, Crucial's done some lovely things with their SSDs of late. Samsung's been putting out solid SSDs for a god while now. After to install an SSD, be sure to enable TRIM. See the SSD megathread for more details.

FWIW, I have a 256 GB Samsung 830 in my 2010 MBP and it works great.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

beergod posted:

If I get, say, a 256gb external SDD and install OS X (and windows) on it, and boot from it but run programs from the internal HDD, will still "feel" like an HDD system or will it feel like I have an internal SSD installed?

Still trying to fix my idiotic mistake of buying a 2013 imac with an HDD drive. I have a 256gb SSD drive I'm not doing anything with, so I'm trying to make it work with a thunderbolt enclosure or something. I can't take the slow bullshit of the HDD anymore,

Any help is much appreciated. Want to run out to frys sometime today.

Install the OS and programs on the SSD, use the internal HDD for media storage as mentioned before.

The suggestion I'd make is to partition your HDD into a small OS partition and a media partition. Keep an OSX install on there in case you ever need to disconnect the SSD but still want to fire up the computer. You can rename the backup OS partition on the HDD with a period in front of the name so it'll be hidden from your desktop.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

lelandjs posted:

Whelp, it doesn't work. It appears that, even with the Peer-to-peer AirPlay, the Apple TV itself still needs an active internet connection. My phone just straight up won't connect to it without one (I can see it in the AirPlay menu but it won't connect).

Oh well, guess I'm stuck with Comcast for now.

Get a wireless router you can set to client mode for your wired devices (including Apple TV), then set it to connect to your phone wifi?

smax
Nov 9, 2009

BlackMK4 posted:

I had my HDD replaced under the 3TB recall. The system has been slow since I got it back.


HDD they replaced it with is having issues already, fuckin sweet. Guess I'll throw this thing up for sale because I'll be hosed if I'm cutting the screen off and replacing the HDD out of pocket.

I'd imagine they would replace the drive again for you. Have you asked?

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Snowmankilla posted:

Seems weird to buy later years vs this year's. Is force touch not worth while?

Seems like Ram makes more sense then storage. A small external is a great idea. And I hate to tip off how dumb I am but what is wysiwyg?

What you see is what you get. You can't customize the refurbs.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

I know the current lowest tier Mac Mini is pretty lackluster in terms of performance, but how would one handle serving as a file/backup/caching server with the occasional videos played at 1080P on a TV? The video playback will be the most demanding use.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

The computer won't actually be anywhere near a TV, it'll be living by the router in a rack hooked up to the TV via HDMI over ethernet.

At this stage I really don't know which route I'll go - to give some background I'm starting to piece together a fancy new network setup for my parents' new house that they're building 200 miles away. I want something that plays nice with the rest of their Apple products, and that I can remote in to at any time to make sure things are working properly, particularly to make sure their stuff is getting backed up automatically. I know OSX Server takes care of a lot of the stuff I want to implement and I'm familiar with it, so it was my first thought.

We'll see. My mom will probably see the total for my ideal setup and ask me to pare it down. The computer will be the first to go, probably.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Electric Bugaloo posted:

You can offload NAS duties to the Apple TV. Plex, VLC, and a bunch of other established 'networked media' players already have apps on the platform.

You could get your parents a Mac Mini specifically for the living room- or you could get your parents an Apple TV that could handle all of their media streaming/playback needs and also serve as a wireless display for the Macs and other Apple products that they already own. Frankly, I think the Mini's totally superfluous in this scenario but that's just me.

I highly doubt they're going to actually use streaming or anything like that. What I do need is something that is always on to act as a file server and to make sure they have backups. Is Apple support for backing up Macs to a Windows share even a thing? I think I remember seeing workarounds, but would you be able to set that up in a way that would be reliable?

If the computer is going to be used to put something up on screen, I'll probably be in control remotely. I'm imagining the main use would be me uploading a video file or photos to the server, calling them up to tell them to go turn on the TV, and showing them things from 200 miles away.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

GutBomb posted:

I've got a late 2014 mac mini that I have hooked up to my TV via hdmi...

One suggestion: mine did something similar until I swapped out the HDMI cable. You might have a bad cable that intermittently loses contact when you slightly bump the computer or the cable. Mine didn't take much at al to make the screen flash.

It might not fix it, but an HDMI cable is certainly cheaper and easier than throwing other new hardware at it.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Ammat The Ankh posted:

I read the OP but has anything changed re: buying reputable generic magsafe power adapters? Specifically the 60W "L" style connector.

Thanks!

Every time I think about getting a cheap Mac charger, I think of this article and decide to go genuine:

http://www.righto.com/2016/03/counterfeit-macbook-charger-teardown.html?m=1

smax
Nov 9, 2009

EL BROMANCE posted:

Just do an internet restore?

This, it’ll take a while to download but it works great.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Koramei posted:

What's the difference between the MacBook and the Pro? I thought the Pro was the premium version but they seem to be very similar prices?

Size, primarily. MacBooks are tiny 12” lightweight computers, MacBook Pros are larger and more powerful.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Howard Phillips posted:

I have a mid 2014 Macbook Pro 13". It's the most baseline model as far as CPU, RAM, and SSD goes.

Problem is that in today's world the 128GB SSD just isn't enough. What is the cheapest way to safely upgrade the SSD without taking it Apple?

SSDs in those are easily replaced. You can either find a take-off from a 2013-2015 MBP, or buy a consumer M.2 SSD with an adapter. Personally I’d take a look at eBay for an Apple SSD.

You’d also need a pentalobe driver to take off the bottom case cover.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

LionArcher posted:

Just ordered a 2015 with 16 gigs of ram (and a 128 SSD lol ) for 600ish and a low battery cycle count. Feeling good about it. (It’s my back up travel computer, not my main iMac).

Once you get it, check the serial number on the new recall. You might be able to get a brand new battery.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

2015 MacBook Pro 15". My trackpad just stopped working, and I'm now outside my AppleCare warranty period. I did have my battery replaced in June under the recall program, which I think means I have a new top case.

Does the thread think I'll need to pay for the repair? I have a few days before I can find out for myself given Thanksgiving, and I don't particularly want to go into an Apple store this long weekend due to Black Friday and holiday shopping season kicking off.

I was hoping to buy a 2019 16" at some point, but I was also hoping to be able to sell this thing as a 100% functional 2015 with a <1 year old battery.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

eames posted:

Apple provides 90 days warranty on repairs so on paper you'd have to pay for the full top case replacement.
I think you have a good chance that Apple will give you free or discounted top case replacement in your situation, though I would get it looked ASAP, certainly before 6 months since the repair have passed. They'll also look very closely for any signs of liquid ingress.

Try resetting the PRAM/SMC following the instructions on apple.com. Does the trackpad still click when you press it or does it feel completely solid?

Feels completely solid. I can get it to click sometimes if I have multiple fingers on it and press harder on it than I should have to. No movement though.

I'll try the PRAM/SMC reset and see what happens, this seems more like a hardware issue but I know resetting can magically fix all sorts of random things.


Edit: PRAM fixed it. I will never understand how PRAM can screw up so much stuff.

smax fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Nov 28, 2019

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Decided to take the plunge on some new Mac hardware today. Upgrading my wife’s 2012 MBA to a new 13” MBP ($200 off at Best Buy) and upgrading my 2012 Mini to a 2018 i5 one (on clearance at Frys, not a screaming deal but decent for my needs).

I’m hoping that buying intel based macs so late in their life cycle doesn’t bite me long term, but I’m not too worried about it. I’ll give it a couple years to replace my 2015 15” MBP and see how the ARM transition goes.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Quick non-ARM Mac discussion question:

Transferring files from a 2012 Macbook Air to a 2020 Macbook Pro: if I have a USB A to USB C (3.1) cable, will Target Disk Mode work?

I have a bunch of other options available, this just seems like the quickest and most painless if it's possible.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Wowporn posted:

On the topic of used Mac minis I am considering getting an older Mac mini to have a dedicated music stuff computer but I really can’t justify spending a lot of money on it so I’ve been looking for used models from like 2012-2014 in the $300ish range. Is there any general advice about model years, processors, etc I should keep in mind? I figure I could get one of the lower specced ones and upgrade the ram and SSD if it feels it needs it. Are some easier to replace stuff on than others?

Get a 2012, i7 if you can find one (though an i5 would probably be more than enough). 2012 was the last year you could fully upgrade RAM and HDD/SSD, the 2014 was generally seen as a step backwards in processing power, and RAM/storage are soldered you the motherboard.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

tuyop posted:

What’s wrong with the 2020s? It sounds like you can upgrade the ram.

Nothing, he’s just looking to spend around $300. The 2018’s are the same as the 2020’s, only with less storage.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

bus hustler posted:

B&H has the base mini on sale for $649 but dunno if that is going to be the best deal.

Adorama’s at $639.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

The Lord Bude posted:

Apple needs to hurry the gently caress up and invent a wireless monitor if you ask me.

It’s called an iPad.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Krakkles posted:

I want to setup a garage computer, and I'm thinking a mac mini is probably the way to do it. It'll be hooked up to a TV, and will basically just need to play music, play youtube videos, and browse the web. What's the oldest/lowest spec I could go to do this and reasonably drive a 1080p TV? Any particular places I should look for a used one, or just ebay it?

The oldest Mini I’d get would be a 2018, they’re reasonably powerful and upgradeable (at least with regard to memory), and should have decent OS update support for a while.

M1 minis can be found for cheap though, if your budget can handle it just get an M1.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Took the plunge and just ordered a 16” M1 Max. Expected ship date is between November 30 and December 7. I figure it’s time to trade in my mid-2015 15” for something new.

Question for those doing mail trade-ins: does the trade in kit come with or around the same time as the computer? Just wondering how all of this will likely be timed.

smax fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Nov 5, 2021

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Binary Badger posted:

Didja get the binned Max or the full blown

Full blown. I honestly don’t need the power, but I tend to hold on to my computers so long that $400 spread over 6/7 years doesn’t make a difference to me. At the end of the day, I figured why not.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Pakistani Brad Pitt posted:

This was my logic (though not with the storage, I don't need that much storage). Did you get the 8TB? Asking because I'm looking at Dec 10-17 with an order weeks earlier. I know they sometimes churn out more of the fully fully maxed out ones.

Nah, just the standard 32GB/1TB model. That logic breaks down for a $6,100 computer. I can get the wife on board for a $3,500 computer though.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Brain Issues posted:

i have a 10c/16c pro and a 10c/24c max model currently and im trying to decide between which one to keep. ask me anything

How much of a difference does full power mode make?

smax
Nov 9, 2009

forbidden dialectics posted:

The fine-grain volume and screen brightness controls were situationally useful.

Hold option while you adjust.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Binary Badger posted:

It's not a big deal, the bottom cases on the M1 Airs are contoured to fit the heatspreaders on the logic board, and the 7-core GPU heat spreader is smaller than the 8-core for obvs reasons

Is it that obvious if the 7 core has the exact same die as the 8 core? The 7 cores are just binned M1 chips with a core disabled. Physically they’re the same.

smax
Nov 9, 2009

I had to really play with external monitor settings on my M1 Max MPB. I have a 2K60Hz display that the computer was somehow sending a 4K30Hz signal to.

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smax
Nov 9, 2009

god this blows posted:

So my new work bought me a 34” ultra wide that has 90W PD. Everything I’ve read said it’ll power a 16” MacBook Pro fine but is it at less than full speed or anything?

Today I played a few hours of a Half Life 2: Ep2 mod on my M1 Max MBP in Windows 11 ARM via Parallels, plugged into a monitor with a 60W PD connection. It didn’t charge, but it didn’t discharge much if at all.

These things sip power, and if what I did didn’t drain the battery appreciably then a standard workflow with 50% more max power will be fine.

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