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Complete newbie here. I enjoyed making my own bacon, now want to try beer. Much of the talk here is quite overwhelming, so I want to start with one of those kits where you just add sugar/water, get the hang of the basics, then continue. I do have a question you can hopefully help me with. How is the smell? When the waterlock is in place and everything is doing it's thing for two weeks, is it noticeable? Does it last the full period? I don't want to stink up my house too much.
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Apr 4, 2014 13:09
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Just started my very first brew and I have a question. The guide I've been following says it is advisable to transfer the beer after most of the fermentation is done, because it will reduce the amount of dead yeast in your brew and while the first part of the fermentation requires lots of room because of foam, for the second part having as little as possible oxygen is better. When transferring I should keep out the yeast, but do I include the foamy stuff or keep it out as well?
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Jul 10, 2014 14:07
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rockcity posted:When you're transferring, you should be using a siphon of some sort which will be drawing the liquid below the surface of the krausen (the foamy part) but above the yeast cake at the bottom of the fermenter. Yeah, I have one of those, but unless I am really misunderstanding how it works won't some foam get in if the liquid level drops enough? It would probably sputter because of the air and lose pressure quickly, but there should be some krausen able to make the transfer with the last of the liquid.
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Jul 10, 2014 14:45
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Thanks for the answers. I guess the good news is I can start brewing a second batch right away. I already bought a glass jar for the second part of the fermentation and your information means it won't have any other use for it now since I have a separate container for the bottling already. Is there a rough guideline to how much extra space there should be in the container? I'm brewing 10L in a 30L container now, which is more than enough room. Can I do the same 10L in the 15L jar or is there some ratio how much room you need for the krausen and air getting pushed out?
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Jul 10, 2014 14:54
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Is there a reason I shouldn't bottle beer in a whiskey bottle? My Christmas beer should be ready for bottling this weekend and I just finished a Dalmore bottle with a silver deer on it, so I figured I'll give that one to whoever hosts dinner this Christmas. It'll be clean and everything, but I kinda worry about the cork. Can it contain stuff that'll mess up the beer? If I clean it with stuff other than water, will it mess up the flavor? Also, the cork isn't crammed in like with wine, expanding after you open it, but cut to size. It closes off the bottle perfectly, but should I wrap it up after bottling so the top doesn't fly off?
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Aug 26, 2014 15:21
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I just started brewing and only used extract cans so far, but it looks like I already messed up. First brew came out fine. Then my meter broke, and I did the second brew by winging it. Definitely drinkable, but it has a strong taste similar to brown sugar (which I didn't use) and is quite sweet. I tasted the third brew just now and it has the same dark sugary taste and sweetness. However, the extract was completely different. Could it be that I left both fermenting too long before bottling, all the yeast died and what I'm tasting is sugar that wasn't converted? Is that even possible? It was at 68 for a week, then I transferred it to a clean container to remove dead yeast and left it at 68 for another week. I have since read that transferring it to remove dead yeast is outdated and it's best to leave it as is.
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Dec 11, 2014 16:55
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Thanks for the feedback. All the extracts were Brewferm tins. I throw the yeast in straight from the packet. Read about waking it up in lukewarm water, but just as many people saying to just throw it in, so I tried that. It definitely started fermenting after less than a day. Bubbling waterlock couple of times a minute, big load of foam, all that. This process died down almost completely over the first week before I moved it to the secondary. Secondary has some movement in the waterlock, but it wasn't more than a few bubbles per day. No bottle bombs in the 70+ bottles so far, but I got a new meter for the next batch so hopefully this won't happen again. Just can' stop wondering what it was that went wrong. I understand what you guys are saying, but if it started fermenting and died down it is unlikely the fermentation didn't finish, right? Unless the temperature get too low and the yeast falls asleep, but I have full control of the temperature.
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Dec 11, 2014 18:48
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First time doing a larger batch, didn't have enough room to store all the bottles upright. Put the last dozen on a shelf, sideways, about two weeks ago. Last night I found this.  I don't see the same thing on the bottom of the bottles that were stored upright. The sideways bottles were the last ones filled, so I'm thinking it is a bit of the yeast cake that got transferred to the clean container, sank back down while I was cleaning up, preparing bottles, etc. and was then transferred into the last bottles when I was filling them. I put the bottles upright and it disappeared within a few hours. Is it harmful? Should I throw out the whole batch or just the sideways bottles?
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Jan 22, 2015 13:10
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Marshmallow Blue posted:No it's just yeast sediment from bottle conditioning. You'll see it on the bottom of your bottles that were up right. If you move those to an upright position, it should eventually drop to the bottom, but might not. Be careful opening those too, I've found that sediment on the side bottles have a higher chance of gushing (not from an infection but from nucleation points and CO2 etc). cryme posted:It's fine. Just be careful to decant that bottle off the yeast when serving. Thanks, guys. They all dropped to the bottom within a few hours, but I couldn't detect any on the upright bottles so that's why I was doubting. Maybe the bottom of the glass is too thick for me to see anything. My other brews were crystal clear, so this had me a bit worried.
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Jan 22, 2015 15:01
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I did a handful of cans over the last few months to get some experience with the fermentation process, but I recently got a mini-maisch package with everything weighed and it felt like a whole new experience. It encouraged me to open up Papazian's brewing book and start using hops and barley instead of just adding sugar to prehopped extract. I have some questions that you guys can hopefully help me with. Priming with DME instead of sugar. Never thought of it before, but makes sense now. I'll be doing this to kill off the last can I have, which is a Brewferm Pilsner that uses a top yeast, so I figured I'll order a bottom yeast and use that to see how it works instead. That shouldn't cause any issues, right? Temperature, etc. is under control, but I just want to make sure that certain extracts and yeasts won't end up as an undrinkable mess. When you prime with DME, does it matter which color you use? I assume the ingredients in the wort decide color and taste while the priming DME barely influences it, but it is hard to find a clear answer online. Does the color matter? The honey beer came with instructions to prime with sugar, but I want to use DME and don't have any yet. For both the Pilsner and the honey beer I want to use light (does that make sense?). However, my next project is a dry stout and I want to know if I could prime the Pilsner and honey beer with the black DME I'll order for that or instead use the remaining light DME for the stout without making it lighter or even too light.
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Feb 10, 2015 15:50
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Myron Baloney posted:It won't make much difference any way you do it - not enough volume in prime compared to the beer it's going into to matter. Two concerns about priming with DME - you may get a small krausen residue on the necks of the bottles, not a big deal unless you're super picky about appearance. The big issue is you don't know how fermentable it will be under bottle conditions, so you likely end up with under- or over-carbed beer. Sugars are far more predictable. And of course DME costs about 5x as much as sugar. I read about the krausen residue, but the variances in carbonation sound annoying. Papazian really advocates using DME over sugar for a far superior beer. Is there any truth to that?
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Feb 10, 2015 20:20
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Found out the tap on my fermenter was leaking, started just a few hours after I pitched my yeast. I've been paranoid about something like that since I started brewing, so there was a container right below that caught everything and saved me from having to clean up the mess, but even so it is a bummer to lose beer this way. I had a spare and replaced the tap without having to transfer all the beer, but balancing 5 gallon between the hole where the tap was and the waterlock was an exercise I could've done without. Afterwards I realized the fermenter came with a seal and I could've just rolled the whole thing on its side. Oh well, lesson learned.
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Mar 16, 2015 15:45
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Tried using DME to prime a Honey Ale, it came out too flat. Very disappointing, since it was my favorite recipe so far. It was an experiment to see how DME priming works, but after the next batch with an extra 15% DME finishes I don't think I'll continue. We had the Honey Ale together with a very simple Grand Cru, for which I used sugar and came out perfectly carbonated. Understandably almost everyone preferred it. BioTech fucked around with this message at 13:49 on Mar 23, 2015 |
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Mar 23, 2015 12:17
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Jacobey000 posted:There are plenty of carbonation calculators that give you an amount for DME. What were you using to find the amt given? I used Papazian's advice of 1 1/4 cups for a 5 gallon batch. So I poured 300ml which is 1 1/4 cups, weighed it so I can use weight in the future (200g / 7 oz), dissolved and added. The Tastybrew calculator confirms that should have been enough for something like 2.3 or 2.4 at 20C / 68F, but it definitely isn't at that level. Munton's is supposed to be 75% AA, but I used the 70% amount anyways just to be sure. http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html The Pilsner I bottled two weeks ago got an extra 15%, not 30 as I wrote before, and I hope that's enough. If that one comes out flat as well I'm going back to sugar for sure.
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Mar 23, 2015 13:48
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Gravity hasn't changed in 4 days, but it definitely can't be finished. Attenuation is less than 60%, so I raised the temperature and crossed my fingers. First time this happened to me, any advice?
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Mar 26, 2015 14:21
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BioTech posted:Gravity hasn't changed in 4 days, but it definitely can't be finished. Attenuation is less than 60%, so I raised the temperature and crossed my fingers. Temperature didn't help, pitched more yeast. Nothing after 3 days. Pitched another batch of yeast. Dropped 1 point and stopped. Right now I'm considering bottling if there is no change after another 3 days, but I'm kinda worried the yeast might spring back to life and eat not just my priming sugar, but also everything still in there. Went from 1.052 to 1.020 so there are still a few points left. Don't know if that's enough to make bottlebombs though.
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Mar 31, 2015 09:30
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Seph posted:What was your mash temp? If your temperature was too hot, then it's possible 1.020 is your final gravity. Generally, the hotter the mash, the less fermentable sugars in the wort and the higher the FG (and vice versa). I only just moved away from beer kits, doing steeps and partial mashes now. For this one I steeped the cara, black and roasted at 154 for 30 mins, then added extract and boiled with hops. The special malts shouldn't have much (any?) sugars that the temp might have messed with, as far as I understand.
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Mar 31, 2015 13:19
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darnon posted:If most of your actual fermentables was from extract and depending on the amount of caramel malt used your attenuation might be lower than you'd expect. Extract tends to be less fermentable (especially darker ones which tend to incorporate caramel and maltodextrine to boost body) and caramel malt leaves residual sugars. Wow, I didn't know about the additional ingredients for the LME affecting its fermentability. That would explain why even the added yeasts didn't do anything. It was an attempt at Papazian's Toad Spit Stout. His recipe and Brewtoad both predicted 1.014 finishing, so that is what kept me nervous about it not going below 1.020 I assume that since there was nothing left to ferment the extra yeast won't leave any strong flavors? I didn't have the same type as the original yeast, but since I thought the batch was going to be trouble I didn't really care. Ingredients for 5 gallon were roughly; 6lb Dark LME 12oz Crystal Malt (not Cara) 5.3oz Roasted Barley 5.3oz Black Malt 1.25oz Northern Brewer Pellets for 60 min 0.4oz Fuggle Pellets for 10 min Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale Edit: I threw in some leftover Pilsner Yeast and some IPA yeast later, both from kits that I used as an ingredient and added different yeast. BioTech fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Mar 31, 2015 |
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Mar 31, 2015 14:21
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DecentHairJelly posted:Can you use the Wyeast smack packs without releasing the yeast nutrient? I have the exact same; 1056 was delivered two weeks ago, kept cold but already a bit inflated. Felt around, nutrient pack was still closed. It kept growing in my fridge and even though it didn't become as big as ones where I popped the nutrient pack it is quite large. Tried feeling around for the nutrient pack, but I don't think I can reach it without issues. Their own FAQ say it shouldn't be a problem to pitch without activating, just take longer. I'll find out this Sunday. https://www.wyeastlab.com/faqs.cfm?website=2#r16
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May 8, 2015 07:53
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Tried my first all grain recipe after a dozen extract brews. Was hoping to get at least 60% efficiency, ended up with a very disappointing 40% First time using my mill so I was prepared for this and used extract to bring the gravity up, but I really didn't think 60% was aiming that high. Definitely gonna play with the gap setting or mill twice next time.
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May 11, 2015 08:01
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Pompous Rhombus posted:So just to confirm, I kinda need to spring for the 40L urn (AU$300) over the 30L (AU$170) for 5 gallon/~20L batches? I've used a 30L vat for all my 20L batches and there has always been more than enough space. Then again, I'm gonna try 3787 soon and apparently that yeast requires crazy headspace.
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May 14, 2015 08:47
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First time going all grain I had a 40% efficiency, second attempt this weekend got me 60% efficiency. Not very impressive, but I am glad to see improvement. Using 3787 and even though I knew about the headspace it is still crazy to watch it grow and grow. Right now I have two thirds wort, one third krausen. That is a lot more than the usual two fingers worth.
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May 26, 2015 07:53
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yamdankee posted:So my first brew (heffe) reached a SG of 1.06 yesterday. Decided to make it bottling day. Did everything right but halfway through actual bottling I realized I forgot to stir the priming solution and the beer. I added the priming solution first, then siphoned from the carboy to the bucket, but forgot to gently stir it. How screwed am I? Are some bottles going to be super carbonated and others not? You are probably fine. I've forgotten to stir a few times now, but after sitting for just a few minutes while I put the bottles in a row, find the caps. it always came out fine. The sugar seems to spread out quite quickly. I even add the priming solution last, so you probably got it mixed okay just from adding the beer later and the flow that creates.
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May 26, 2015 13:32
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toe knee hand posted:You *could* use a 5 gallon, brew strong, and dilute with boiled and cooled water, but I'm not sure if you'd get decent efficiency that way. This is what I do. I measure efficiency on the strong brew, then dilute. Got 40% the first time, 60% the second time but these were my first non-extract brews ever, so I'm probably not a great benchmark. It seems to work fine, if I can get the efficiency up I'll definitely stay with it. I did read that if you go for very bitter beers this won't work since you can dilute the IBUs without much of a problem, but there is a limit to how much of it you can get in the original strong brew based on volume or something.
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Jun 1, 2015 08:11
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My second BIAB is extremely cloudy and waiting hasn't helped. First one cleared in a week, this one looks worse than a Weizen after three weeks. I have to bottle it soon and was thinking about straining the whole thing. Right now I want to line my bottling bucket with a cheese cloth, siphon and then either pull out the cloth or just bottle from the gap between the cloth and bucket edge. Doubting if I should tie a paint strainer bag or something around the siphon's intake instead. Any advice?
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Jun 10, 2015 07:39
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JawKnee posted:straining probably won't do poo poo for cloudiness, try cold-crashing maybe? Right, mixed up the terminology. Beer definitely is cloudy, but I'm gonna cold crash it after a few weeks in the bottle. However, it is also full of particles that just won't settle down. My guess is the bag is a bit too coarse and since I couldn't filter after mashing aside from just pulling out the bag it just has too much small bits of grain left in it. If the bag couldn't hold those pieces, I'm not sure a panty hose will, so that is why I'm looking at a cheese cloth. Guess I could always stuff my cane with something, but I'm afraid that'll just lead to a clogged mess.
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Jun 10, 2015 11:09
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Der Penguingott posted:The beer is in the fermenter still, right? It is still in the fermenter, yes. I used 3787 Belgian Trappist High Gravity. It went from 1.100 to 1.025, but only dropped 1 point in the last week. For me 75% and no movement indicates it is very close to being done, so the plan was to measure again on Saturday and then bottle if there was no change. If there is still movement I will give it another week, but I'm kinda pressed for time. Hopefully it has stopped so I can use that week to cold crash it. The plan was to add yeast before bottling anyway, so I'm not overly worried about it affecting carbonation too much.
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Jun 10, 2015 13:59
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Der Penguingott posted:What is a reasonable FG for a big adjunct stout? I know they are supposed to be pretty sweet. I only made two and mine were nowhere near that big, but both ended up pretty high. They taste absolutely amazing, so I wouldn't worry too much. 1052 -> 1020 1062 -> 1026 Still new at this so initially I thought the yeast gave up and added more, only for nothing to change. Later someone here told me how the dark stuff will never ferment and I realized how much sense that made.
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Jun 12, 2015 14:13
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yamdankee posted:Is it ok if active fermentation starts and stops within the first 3 or 4 days? I pitched the yeast for my Irish red Friday night and Saturday afternoon it was already going crazy. This morning I checked and it's slowed down. I used the Abbey Ale yeast I harvested from my Belgian Tripel (2 mason jars). Is this a problem or is it ok to roll with it and it just means I'll have beer sooner? How did you check? Fermentation usually continues even when you see no krausen and the lock seems to have fallen quiet. In the first few days there are a lot sugars available and things will go fast, after that it will go more slowly but still continue. Just watching for bubbles can be very misleading. This is an example for the Grand Cru I made recently. Start - 1.068 3 days - 1.028 6 days - 1.020 9 days - 1.017 12 days - 1.017 While nothing comes close to the 40 points in the first 3 days, the additional week still got me an extra 11 points. If I bottled thinking it was done after the first few days because the bubbling (nearly) stopped those bottles would probably have exploded. If you measure the gravity every few days and there is no change twice in a row that usually means your fermentation has stopped.
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Aug 3, 2015 14:10
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I read "use less crystal" here quite a lot and never used more than 8 oz in any brew, but for a quick extract test that I'm doing the recipe says a full pound of Cara on 2 x 3.3lb cans and I'm not sure if this is too much. These are very light 20-30EBC / 10L grains, so that also means less unfermentable sugars than regular crystal, right?
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Aug 21, 2015 10:47
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Doing a saison for the first time, pitched at 20C and within a day it is at 24,5C Excited to see how high it will go and curious what my sample tonight will taste like.
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Aug 25, 2015 14:39
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Drone posted:Yeah, I meant doing 3gal in 8gal. I'm not limited by the size of my fermenting buckets, but by the size of my boil kettle (which is only 5gal). You can also boil 2 gallons of water a day in advance, let it cool and put in the fermenter. On brewday you just make a 3 gallon batch with 5 gallons worth of ingredients and mix it together. I've been doing BIAB like this for over a year and it works fine. Just make sure you have enough water to mash the grains, anything up to 6 pounds can't go wrong, I did 9 at one point and still reached 72% efficiency. It also saves you time cooling after the brew itself, since you already let the first 2 gallons cool overnight and you'll have just 3 gallon to chill. The only thing I read is that the wort can get saturated with alpha acids at some point so if you use crazy amounts of hop your bitterness might differ from what you calculated since there is a point where it no longer gets absorbed. Did a 50 IBU Wheat Citra and it came out just fine, so not sure where the limit is.
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Nov 3, 2015 09:09
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Drone posted:This seems to be by far the simplest solution to get me to a batch size of 5 gal/20 liters, so I'll give it a shot once all my kit arrives. I'll have 4kg/8.4 lbs of grains, so the first challenge will be to figure out how much water to mash them in without overflowing. I run a 5 gallon kettle just like you and that is why I use the method I described. It hasn't steered me wrong so far, so give it a try and see if it works for you. Just looked at my notes; Biggest brew like this was 13 pounds. I used 3 gallons of water. This filled my kettle to the brim and made stirring almost impossible, everything boiling over the sides. Efficiency sucked as well. It was no fun and I will not use that much grain again until I get a bigger pot. Second biggest was 10 pounds in 3 gallons just a few weeks ago and it went great. Efficiency ended up above 70%, very satisfied. Bottled it this weekend and can't wait to give it a try. The 8 in your pack should be no problem with 3 gallons.
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Nov 3, 2015 11:06
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:So I finally bottled Liquid Gold. Final ABV was 17.5%, and the taste is incredible. Wonderful balance of apples and dryness with very little burn. Dangerously drinkable. This looks really cool, I made JAOM a few months back as my first non-beer thing and am very willing to try something new. Some basic newbie questions; You just toss in the sugar? No dissolving it in warm water or warm with the apple juice itself? How important is temperature? Does champagne yeast give esters and stuff? Did you age it in the fermentor or bottle at a certain moment and age in the bottle? Edit; Did you prime this? BioTech fucked around with this message at 10:43 on Dec 8, 2015 |
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Dec 8, 2015 09:27
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Drone posted:Each brew I'm learning something new for improvement the next time around, so that's good. That experience really adds up after a while. I've been doing this for less than 2 years and after about 25 brews I find my current stuff to be miles ahead of what I started off with. It isn't just about buying more and better gear, you'll be surprised at how quickly you can improve if you just keep brewing regularly and learn what you can. Some people won't try my stuff because of the first few batches, where I was so happy to have made something that tasted vaguely like beer I forced it on everyone. The ones who hung in there now come calling regularly to ask if I have something new for them to try. My first few batches I gave away because I didn't necessarily want to drink them myself, but nowadays I groan when I have to part with something because I enjoy every bottle. Then again, I'm not a big drinker and storage is running out so to try new things I have to part with the old. Keep brewing, it'll only get better!
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Dec 14, 2015 19:48
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I'm at a bit of a loss when it comes to hops for this one. Got 200g Citra and want to try a Zombie Dust clone with extract. Found this online. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=245456 quote:6.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 70.6 % My 200g Citra is enough for everything but the 60 min and the FWH. For the 60 min I can use some leftover stuff since the boil will destroy most of the flavor and I read 60 min Citra can add some nasty flavors, but I haven't done FWH and keep reading that it is important to use the late addition hops. My leftovers are Hallertau, Saaz, East Kent Golding and Styrian. Any suggestions which ones to use for the 60 min and FWH, or maybe use Citra for FWH and replace it with some leftovers in one of the later boils? If all of these are terrible I can probably get my hands on some other stuff, but more Citra is unlikely.
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Jan 18, 2016 15:14
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Le0 posted:What would be the upgrade where I'd have to buy the least amount of equipment? Going BIAB I guess, since that means I just need a bigger pot and a bigger fermenter? I use a 20L pot, fill it to 16L max and after the boil mix it with cold water in my fermenter to reach 19L/5 gallons . It works just fine unless you want to make very high ABV beers. If space is an issue I can recommend this method.
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Jan 27, 2016 09:12
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Le0 posted:I think I will do something similar. Do you brew BIAB? Yeah, I brew BIAB and it works fine this way, both extract and all grain recipes. For high ABV stuff you'll have to either boil twice or replace some grains with extract, so I usually don't go over 8% to save myself the hassle. I very much enjoyed this recipe last spring as one of my first all grain attempts. It is a Blonde Ale, light and crisp. Everything in metrics because I'm a Euro like you. 2Kg Maris Otter 2Kg Pilsner 320g Crystal Malt Get 11L water to 70°C, toss in milled grains for an hour at 68°C 50g Hallertau for 60 mins 20g Hallertau for 20 mins 30g Saaz for 1 min Just to be sure, note that this is 60 min total, not 81 minutes. After 40 mins add the 20g of Hallertau, etc. Cool, add American Ale Yeast Ferment at 20°C If you can't mill I know Papazian has a whole bunch of partial mash recipes in his book where you use unhopped extract and only soak the specialty grains. The quantity is so small he recommends smashing those with a rolling pin. It is a step between cans and all grain you could skip, but it really helped me to get my head around things. I did his Who Is In the Garden recipe, which is a Hoegaarden Grand Cru clone, and Toad Spit Stout, which is a Guinness clone. They should be easily found online. Both were very strong on flavor, maybe too strong, but I redid the Toad Spit Stout one later with some revisions and it came out as my best extract beer yet. Recipe below. Cosmonaut Coffee 160g Crystal 50L (half of original) 100g Black Malt (2/3rds of original) 100g Roasted Barley (2/3rds of original) Whack with a rolling pin, bag and soak in 68°C for half an hour 2 cans Light LME 1 Kg Extra Light DME (not in original) 750g Dark Candi Sugar (not in original) Bring to a boil 46g Northern Brewer, 60 mins 34g Fuggle, 10 mins Cool, add 2x M03 Newcastle Dark Ale Ferment at 18°C It started at 1.086 and ended high at 1.028 Le0 posted:Also another question, is the fermenting temperature really critical? Because I have a hard time thinking about how to regulate this easily without having some complicated device with a thermostat. I think it was discussed just this page or the one before, but the first few days are the most important. Is your apartment 25°C at night as well? If the yeast heats things up, how will you cool it down? It will really help if you can control this, 25°C is quite warm for everything except for saisons. You could probably do some Weizen, but it will go heavily into banana/clove territory, can't remember which one. I bought an old fridge, put it in the garage, hooked up an STC-1000 and done. One end activates the fridge, the other some heatfoil connected to an aluminum plate in the bottom drawer. It used to be a simple heat pad that kept everything going without issue, but when it was -5°C last week the beer dropped 3°C below what I wanted so I upgraded.
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Jan 27, 2016 11:32
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Le0 posted:I think its related to the US/Metric unit system because when I switched to metric it kept the 0.5 qt/oz but it becomes 0.5 l/g which is enormous, half a liter of water retained by each g of hops. Recipe looks alright, but I think you went for 6 gallons instead of 5, so it comes out to 23L instead of the 19 I used. Your beer will be lighter and less bitter, not necessarily a problem but it already is a light one so it might be more watery than you like. Increasing the grains is also an option, ratio remains the same. I determined my boil size on the amount of grain used. I usually go for 2.5L per kilo, that is a safe figure and you won't run into problems.
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Feb 4, 2016 10:31
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Jhet posted:Est SG 1.091 I've gotten really bad attenuation with 1084 both times I've used it. Hopefully you have better luck, but you might want to keep a second, clean yeast ready to finish the job.
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Feb 11, 2016 11:34
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