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Hello, I've just started finally to get into home brewing. I just have one question at the moment (may have a couple more in future). What is the pros and cons between whole hops vs hop pellets? I can't seem to find much on it and wondering what the differences were.  I'm from the UK so I tend to find whole hops a lot more common then pellets but neither know whats 'best'.
Fluo fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Apr 18, 2013 |
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Apr 18, 2013 20:39
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Ah, cheers for the help guys! I think by the sounds of it pellets would be best for me, problem is at the moment whole hops seem to be in bigger varieties.  Think I try the some batches with the pellets but by the sounds of it if there is a type of hops that I need I'd get it in pellet form over whole hops.
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Apr 18, 2013 21:02
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Kaiho posted:Where do you order/buy from? (I'm also in the UK) There is a 2 brew shops in Bristol that sales them, also from here. Where do you get yours? I don't know many good brew sites. 
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Apr 18, 2013 23:05
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Angry Grimace posted:I greatly prefer pellets. The only reason they're annoying is that they're hard to separate from the wort in the boil if you do a lot of late hopping. That said, they're actually quite easy to rack from if you cold crash and dry hop the primary since they just sink to the bottom with the yeast. They also store better and have much more varieties available on the average. I think the varieties thing seems to depend on the country. Atleast in England or atleast my area you can get a lot more whole hops then pellets. You think, if you forget the whole storage thing. That whole hops are better for late hopping but use pellets for the first?
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Apr 19, 2013 12:02
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Kaiho posted:BrewUK and the malt miller are my go to places. No brick and mortar stores anywhere in central London Bagging wise is just for whole hops? Also should I have 2 if I late hop instead of having to dig out the bag? Fluo fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Apr 19, 2013 |
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Apr 19, 2013 19:52
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Sorry for another question but I would love goons opinions. I don't know which would be better out of a counterflow wort chiller plate or a coil immersion wort chiller. I have no idea which would be best to have and don't want to spend that money on the wrong one.
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Apr 21, 2013 07:34
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Mikey Purp posted:I've never had a counterflow chiller but I can't see how it could improve on my immersion chiller, honestly. Immersion chillers are generally cheaper and easier to maintain and mine will get 5 gallons down to 62* in 10-15 minutes. If you're doing larger batches the counterflow may start to make sense but otherwise I'd recommend the coil. Ok! awesome, going to get the immersion chiller. Big thanks
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Apr 21, 2013 10:00
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Is there a link / database of all the goon recipes? Love to check some out!
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Apr 23, 2013 14:33
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Think I might try this one of yours, Fresh Cascade American IPA all grain soon!  I finally got around to signing up to hopville aswell.
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Apr 23, 2013 15:54
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Jo3sh posted:Just as fair warning, all my recipes are for a ten-gallon batch size. ah ok, so only 60% the amount of (6 US gallons). I'm only doing 6 US gallons as nowhere can I find bigger carboy/demi johns (UK ). If anyone knows of any site that sends bigger demi johns/carboys to the UK I would love to know. 
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Apr 23, 2013 17:21
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When it comes to the boiling. If I don't have a false bottom (just a basic pot with a tap/hop filter) is it worth getting one with a false bottom in the future say, if I needed a bigger pot or a new one? Sorry for having been asking so many questions over the past week, just once I know I will never have to ask again and improving making beer from getting help from other home brewing goons is great.
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Apr 24, 2013 07:49
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Jo3sh posted:Don't worry about asking questions, that's what the thread is here for. Awesome, cheers and yeah holy poo poo when I first ever saw the prices of Blichmann boilers ahaha!
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Apr 25, 2013 03:13
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Honestly, I don't think I've ever had a cask IPA that I like. I get that there is some historical reasoning for it, but I don't think that means is either best practice or fits modern tastes. I think IPAs seriously benefit from carbonation and the fact that cask beers kinda get flatter as they go doesn't help the style out. What ones have you tried? One of my favourite beers is a cask IPA at my local pub that they get some times, Moor JJJ IPA!
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Apr 25, 2013 16:23
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When taking measures from the carboy/demi-john to take a hydrometer reading but before you're going to bottle it, whats the best way / whats the way you guys do it? Only way I can think of is to syphon off some beer with a syphon tube but I don't know if thats the right way. 
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May 2, 2013 16:05
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withak posted:There is a gizmo that you can buy that works like a huge eyedropper. ChiTownEddie posted:A turkey baster? That's what I use haha. Ahaha why didn't I think of that!  Just bought a stainless steel one.
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May 2, 2013 16:15
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Hey I was wondering since I'm getting a new boiler and been working out on getting one for the last couple of weeks think I've worked pretty much everything out but just want to double check on one thing since its an expensive buy. I have never used an electric one and the cons that I can think of outweight the pros and the only reason I think it can be a pro is if it doesn't fit / you don't have a gas hob or something. Cons I can think of is the element is still in there so it will be harder to cool, take longer to boil, hops may burn or just get stupidly hot from being near the element and that it should only really be used as the kettle for going into the mash tun. Am I right or wrong? Just need to be 100% sure I should avoid electric boilers for the main boil and not just to boil water for the mashtun.
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May 3, 2013 14:38
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Docjowles posted:
What would I be looking for to get temp control, like 16 C (62F). My garage tends to be 20c at night and depending on the weather it ranges but since its getting near summer (UK, so not really insane heat waves like in US but still) and temp control is serious I was wondering what would be good? (Gonna take another 2months to get because of cash but knowing is half the battle). Was thinking of a fridge but I think that is just too cold and only really needed for lagers? Ubik posted:Temperature control is one of the biggest things that can improve the quality of your homebrew, and is one of the first things you should always look at in terms of troubleshooting, since higher-than-optimal fermentation temperatures are responsible for so many off-flavors. It's also not that hard to do, since even a swamp cooler in your bathtub will help temperature control significantly. Investing in a mini-fridge off Craiglist plus an analog temperature controller costs about $100, and will help you dial that in even more and enable you to do fun stuff like lager brewing. It's worth jumping to that before kegging or even going all-grain! I'm finding it a nightmare to find a fridge, as they all seem to come with too many gimmicks and such. Think its worth getting one where you can take the shelfs off to fit 10UK gallon demijohn in? Have to get rid of the salad box at the bottom too but should be good right? Also would it be best the first 3 days leaving it out with the blowoff tube before putting it in the fridge? Fluo fucked around with this message at 08:21 on May 6, 2013 |
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May 6, 2013 08:16
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I'm just jealous of your baller kettle. But seriously temp control (which you must be doing to some extent, even if it's frozen soda bottles in a water bath) is like the most important thing.
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eviltastic posted:Dunno about your part of the globe, but I had a MUCH easier time finding a chest freezer I liked than a refrigerator. A 15 cubic foot chest freezer older than myself off of craigslist, a STC-1000 temp controller from ebay, and a heating pad ran me about $80 US. Plus maybe five more dollars for parts to wire up the temp controller. The most annoying part was breaking the auto shutoff on the heating pad. I believe the same controller is available in 220 for a similarly cheap price. eviltastic posted:Forgot to respond to this one: temperature control is just as important during the growth phase, if not more. Ideally, you rig up something to handle blowoff within your controlled environment. Awesome, big thanks I think a chest freezer is the way I'll have to go, only reason I haven't thought of it yet is because it being a freezer I just thought I wouldn't be able to get it to a stable temp around 18 Celsius for some beers and such depending on the yeast. So with the STC-1000 temp controller I'd be able to keep it at a stable not freezer but more cold fridge temp etc?
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May 6, 2013 20:06
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RagingBoner posted:It is finished. internet celebrity posted:Sup finished keezer buddies. Mine finally debuted at my buddy's wedding a week ago. It took about 6 months of saving and scraping stuff together but I love the way it turned out. Holy hell, these are great! The wooden (I don't know what to call it) rim/box on the top of it, what did you do to secure it onto the freezer? In 6 months or so after I've wallpapers / carpeted the room I think I will have to build one of these and put up some of the spare beer and band posters I have! Is there a guide that is goon approved to building these?
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May 8, 2013 05:21
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tonedef131 posted:
Thanks for these summaries! I just instantly bought Radical Brewing, Wild Brews and Brew Like A Monk because of this post. Big thanks and ever come across another others would love to hear your summary / feed back! I was wondering, what are the Michael Jackson books for brewing?
Fluo fucked around with this message at 23:14 on May 9, 2013 |
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May 9, 2013 23:09
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<Amazing write up summaries of brew / beer books>
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I've been going over my water source (tap water) and wondering as there is always ways to improve your beer no matter how big or small. Was wondering if my water source seems fine to you (I'm asking as home Microbreweries in my area don't do anything to the water and others do) and wondering if its best just leaving it the way it comes out is best because fiddling around with water is another thing that could go wrong but it could also make a good tweak to the beer? A mate next time he is down is going to bring some water from his area (Burton upon Trent) as its said to be amazing for brewing beer. quote:When Burton brewers succeeded in replicating the pale ale produced in London, the advantage of the water’s qualities allowed the development of the trade of Burton India Pale Ale (an ale specially brewed to keep during the long sea voyage to India). [...] Burton became a centre for the brewing industry due in part to the quality of the local water, which contains a high proportion of dissolved salts, predominantly caused by the gypsum in the surrounding hills. This allowed a greater proportion of hops, a natural preservative, to be included in the beer, thereby allowing the beer to be shipped further afield. Much of the open land within and around the town is protected from chemical treatment to help preserve this water quality. 
Fluo fucked around with this message at 06:17 on May 17, 2013 |
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May 17, 2013 03:44
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Jo3sh posted:Everything has to be all EXTREME!!1!!111!!! to be any good these days. If it's not 100+IBU or 10+%ABV, it's just swill, in some people's estimation. gently caress that, drink what you like. I think we as homebrewers have a pretty good place to stand to help people believe that there is no shame in drinking whatever it is they enjoy. Yes, I include megabrau lagers in there - although it's not my preference, if that's what makes people happy, they should do that - and maybe try something new once in a while just for the heck of it. I never really understood the hate towards people for living some types of beers, was in CAMRA clique for a while (still a CAMRA member but don't really go to meetings or anything anymore) and they got mad at people who would have a lager once in a while etc. They have a place and are doing good but also doing some bad. There job is to keep real ale alive (cask) but they have this kind of smug better then you idea about if you drink anything keg. I drink cask a lot of the time just because its what most pubs in my area serve, however I enjoy a keg lager or ale quite abit too. Also going to make a keezer at home soon! Long story short: Enjoy what you like and don't get all smug towards people who don't like what you like. I find its like my ideas on music, if you enjoy it more power to you but don't stomp on people who don't.
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May 19, 2013 18:00
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Another problem is some people try 1 type of beer and then if they don't like it tend to not try that type again by a different brewery, first ever oyster stout (Arbor) I had made me vomit (turns out it off and served at the pub anyway, never really go there anymore) but when it popped up at my local a couple months later and had a second go and loved it. However there is some oyster stouts that use the name to mean "Nice to drink when eating oysters" which is a cop out for proper oyster stouts like Porterhouse or Arbor! Also first mild I had years ago was super watery and just never really touched it until I had Sarah Hughes Dark Ruby Mild 8months or so after. I guess if you don't like a beer try a different brewery and then you'll know if your thing.  On the homebrew front I have fallen in love with the book Radical Brewing that tonedef131 recommended in his brew book post. It's given me so many ideas already and so many recipes and stuff to make. 
Fluo fucked around with this message at 18:34 on May 19, 2013 |
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May 19, 2013 18:32
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Jo3sh posted:Well, I brewed both Saturday and Sunday - once at the FLHBS, and once at home. I had to split the shop brew with the shop owner just because I don't have room in the ferment fridge for more than three carboys, so now I have three fermenters full. Holy poo poo, where did you get a fridge so big? :O I'm just using chest freezer with temp control and poo poo myself every time I got to lift it in or out incase I drop it.  But it seems after I get this keezer made I'll be saving for another fermenting fridge or freezer. All fridges I come across have a crappy salad box at the bottom etc which if removed the bottom is just unstable to put stuff on.Also what beers are they by the way? They look dreamy!  One other thing, if I'm able to get a carboy/demijohn that is green and not clear, should I opt for that? Fluo fucked around with this message at 04:01 on May 21, 2013 |
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May 21, 2013 03:46
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I think I've just hit the jackpot. A guy I've known at my local pub for years is getting rid of all his brew gear since he needs to make room and he hasn't brewed for a year because he has kids now. He's going to email all the stuff he has. We were talking but he has stuff like PH Meter thats hardly been touched, malt mill, stainless steel pumps, 10UK gallon HLT, mashtun, boiler on set up etc! Will have the list of everything in the next couple of days! 
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May 31, 2013 00:06
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Bad Munki posted:Not that it's necessarily relevant to the modern interpretation of the style, but isn't an IPA historically aged by necessity much longer than that? As in, they hopped it so heavily because it was getting shipped around the horn of Africa and was going to be spending who-knows-how-long in barrels in the hold of a ship, such that by the time it got where it was going, it would have mellowed out to be more "normal" and less all-up-in-yo-business hoppy. And then the style was "rediscovered" except they left the whole "ship it half way around the world on a slow-rear end boat" thing out of the equation this time around, and tah-dah, now you have TWENTY POUNDS OF HOPS IN EVERY BOTTLE LOL beer. The hopping was more so used to preserve and it worked well (stuff that didn't are stuff like sailor biscuits  ) thats one reason why they used Burton upon Trent water because it was a great hard water which has also had great amount of natural gypsum in the water (which meant they could add a lot more hops for the journey) [still is, the whole area is protected from chemical treatment].From what I understand (correct me if I'm wrong, most likely am) the modern way is a lot fresher and has more hop aroma, the old way lost a lot of the hoppiness over the 18 month journey. So there isn't really a "better way" just depends on your tastebuds. 
Fluo fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Jun 3, 2013 |
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Jun 3, 2013 02:10
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah, don't get me wrong, I definitely wasn't trying to argue that one way is better than another. I think they're all awful, I can't stand really hoppy beers no matter how one makes it happen. I just think history is interesting, even if it's a bit misguided and/or wrong in the retelling. Its cool man! Generally at least in the UK, the term is used so liberally its weird. Proper IPAs are either super hoppy or more old aley, but companies like greenking brew a pale ale (around 3.8-4.4% mark) and just throws the I infront of it because IPA is famous and a some people buy anything with IPA on it, even if it isn't and its just a pale ale. bewbies posted:One of the brewers here did an IPA based off of what he thought was a pretty close approximation of the stuff the BEIC shipped back in the 19th century. High sulfate water, 7.5%, aged for 4 months in cask at a high temp and high humidity (85/85 maybe?) to mimic being onboard a sailing ship going around Africa, served at well above cellar temp. American IPAs I've had are quite different from British IPAs I find, apart from British tends to only be sold at pubs in casks they tend to have a bit more body but not so crisp/fresh tasting I find but I'm no expert on tasting and not tried every brewery's IPA. It's hard to explain but the American IPAs I had have had a very much cleaner finish, the British IPAs had abit more of a lingering flavour*.*The ones I've tried. Saying that the microbrewery in Somerset called Moor Brewery is ran by an American named Justin who brewed in Germany aswell as in US and he does a kind of amazing American/British (but leaning on the American side) IPA [however its Imperial Pale Ale rather then Indian since its a triple IPA]. quote:Triple the gravity, triple the colour, and more than triple the hops. With nearly 700 kg of malt and 14 kg of hops this beer is big in every sense. In fact, it was so big and hoppy that it broke our pump! Deep copper in colour, over the top in aroma and flavour, but somehow still remaining (somewhat) balanced, this beer is not for the faint of heart. If you’re looking for a one-dimensional hop bomb look elsewhere.  I know this post was abit off top from homebrewing but he has done quite a lot of good in this area of UK as he took the pros of British beer but thrown away the cons, all his beers now are unfined and they are just as great if not better*. I was amazed at the amount of malt/hops he uses for this beer! :go: *As he got fed up of all the beer snobs in Britain who spend half the time looking at the beer and if its hazy  out about how it must be gone off or its not brewed right.quote:What is British brewing doing right/wrong? Right – What we’re doing better than anyone else in the world is cask conditioning. It’s not the right format for all beer styles – some are better suited to higher pressures and cooler temperatures. But when the right beer is conditioned well, it is the pinnacle of the brewers’ art. We also get the session beer, which has been lost to most other countries. The bigger beers may be “better” and “more interesting”, but they usually lack drinkability. http://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/2011/07/brewer-qa-justin-hawke-of-the-moor-brewery/ The IPA thing I think can be best summed up "drink young (if you prefer the freshest hop hit) or aged (if you are looking for more of the barley wine character)". Fluo fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Jun 3, 2013 |
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Jun 3, 2013 04:40
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I'm thinking of finally getting a refractometer but I was wondering, as all the models I've looked at range between 1.000 - 1.072. I've never gone outside that range yet but looking at this graph I was wondering if its worth getting still? Been hunting around online and found no answers, love some help!  Has anyone ever brewed beer over 1.072? my hydrometer goes to 1.100 and looking at the grapth some beers even go beyond that so I think the graph must be wrong anyway. Anyway my question is, is it worth getting a refractometer? As I know I'll be saving a lot of beer from it over time.
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Jun 4, 2013 02:17
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zedprime posted:I don't know which hydrometers you are looking at but mine is the one I've seen at just about every mail order website and I guess also ebayed and it goes up to 32 degrees Brix, or somewhere about 1.133. Hand held refractometers are made for a few sugary industries and homebrewers end up with surplus, are you sure you didn't get stuck looking at ones made for low gravities? I looked at about 5 or so UK based homebrew sites, seems they all just went up to 18° Plato (1.074). Because you said that I checked Amazon, first thing I came across was 1) cheaper 2) went up to 32 degrees Brix just like you said. Think I'll be getting this then, (there is 44% ones but that seems to be mainly sold for wine). Thanks zedprime! Saved me some cash and got something better!
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Jun 4, 2013 02:45
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My pots and such are generally 50 litres (13.2 US gallon/10.9 UK gallon) and mashtun 55litres / (14.5 US gallon/12.1 UK gallon), not really done a full 10UK gallon batch yet and was wondering before I have a go, the headroom for the boil wouldn't go past the 10.9 UK gallon mark if I kept poo poo together / under controll? Never had boil over before in smaller batches in smaller pots but generally is there anything to watch out for with bigger batches and is the set up right? (Normally do single infusion/continuous sparge).Jo3sh posted:Yup, but that's normal for a first brew. Relax, have a beer.
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Jun 5, 2013 09:30
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Thufir posted:Fermcap-s is like unicorn tears or something, never even come close to a boilover since using it and my last boil was like 9 gallons in a 10 gallon pot. Thanks mate, going to order some!
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Jun 6, 2013 05:47
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Roundboy posted:northernbrewer is running a deal now, buy a wheat beer kit, and a 5 gal kettle... you get a free starter kit. I really wish Northernbrewer would send outside the US soon, the yeast and stuff I wouldn't need as I can get it in UK etc and most likely not be suited for long travel. But there is some awesome stuff there which is a nightmare to find, equipment / add on wise. Hell even the tap handles!
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Jun 7, 2013 15:58
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the yellow dart posted:Drink more beers that come in 22s US standard large bottle (22US oz/650.6ml) but European is 750ml (25US oz). That is unless you get a bottle like:  
Fluo fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Jun 7, 2013 |
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Jun 7, 2013 22:39
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Allahu Snackbar posted:
Oh man, that looks like its gonna be great! How long you planning on having it in secondary?
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Jun 9, 2013 10:48
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Toebone posted:That looks great, my saison was the best beer I made before I got temperature control. The yeast loves these hot summer days. I find secondary helps if you don't want a bottle conditioned beer and it helps if you don't want too much of a yeasty taste with some types of beers like British Bitters, however Belgian beers tend to love having that yeast taste.
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Jun 9, 2013 15:37
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Allahu Snackbar posted:My recipe says a week. Should I consider longer? Never made one yet so I don't know was just wondered for when I do some myself.
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Jun 10, 2013 06:59
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Ahdinko posted:So I'm making a lager and its still pretty hazy. What kind of finings do I want to use to clear it? Are particular brands/types good or shall I just use whatever comes up first on Amazon. Im in the UK if it makes any difference Irish Moss is best however you're abit late for that as you add it last 10/5minutes of the boil, Isinglass is unreliable I find unless you're a brewery, homebrew stuff is abit hit and miss. I'd generally say gelatine is your best bet. quote:How To Use Gelatin Finings Unless the packet says different, but generally people say different ways etc so I'm guessing someone has a better way of doing it.
Fluo fucked around with this message at 10:23 on Jun 10, 2013 |
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Jun 10, 2013 10:16
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internet celebrity posted:At my last homebrew competition someone entered a hotdog beer. It had like 40 hotdogs in the mash and boil and was dry hotdogged with a bunch more. I wonder how long untill someone is going to go full goony and do a bacon (or dorito) beer...... 
Fluo fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Jun 21, 2013 |
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Jun 21, 2013 14:16
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I got a question as I've spent hours hunting and hunting, does anyone know what I should be looking for or where I could get a 1 inch to 1/2 inch tubing adapter? Badly need one but can't seem to find anything close.
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Jun 21, 2013 14:28
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Myron Baloney posted:A hose barb reducer (or reducer coupler may be the other common term) that large that steps down that much might be hard to find in one piece in any material you'd want to use. You could probably more easily find 1" to 3/4" and 3/4" to 1/2" reducers with barbs on both sides (brass and CPVC anyway, no idea about stainless) and put a short piece of 3/4" ID in between. And there are barbed reducers/adapters with male pipe threads on the intermediate sides and then you'd use a female coupling to join them. I think larger adapters with hose barbs are pretty commonly used for hot tubs and garden ponds if that helps. Oh man, big thanks you're a life saver! Seriously the taps I have to be using now are loving weird (apart from being British  ) is curved so couldn't use my tube/tap adapter on it and its abit too big to just put the 1/2" tubing for my wort chiller on it. Thanks mate! Roundboy posted:There is a bacon maple beer in my local area "Free range costal water" - Most stupid thing I've came across in a long time that was labelled free range lol.
Fluo fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jun 21, 2013 |
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Jun 21, 2013 16:28
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