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MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
Just finished a batch of nut brown ale, and after I sealed up the lid of the brew bucket and pushed in the airlock, the little rubber bung around the hole of the airlock lid fell into the bucket and sank to the bottom.

Am I screwed or should I RDWHAHB and wait 48-72 hours to see if fermentation starts successfully, and hope nobody detects a slight rubbery flavor?

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MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
I'm hating myself for getting bitten by the Skyrim bug and it's seriously got me thinking about making a batch of mead.

I've had sparkling mead before and really liked it, but there's only one brand that's sold at local liquor stores, so my curiosity is piqued.

Is there any handy basic guide to meadmaking from this thread and its many paged glory? I don't mind buying an extra fermentation bucket setup for this and letting the mead do its thing for months at a time if that's how it'll go.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
So I'm toying with making up a partial mash wheat ale to be my A) latest brew and B) entry into a local homebrew competition.

I threw together this recipe after looking up a few others for a 5 gallon batch - any goons want to input and critique? I'd be entering it as American Wheat under these guidelines for judging: http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style06.php#1d

I'm going more for citrusy and clean, just enough spice to be interesting but not to dominate. Thoughts?

3lb wheat DME
2 lb 12 oz Weyermann pale wheat malt
1 lb 4 oz Weyermann rye malt
1 lb Weyermann CaraWheat malt

1.0 oz Cascade hops (bittering - start of 60 min boil)
.5 oz Ahtanum hops (aroma - 30 mins remaining)
.25 oz Pacific Gem hops (flavoring - 5 mins remaining)

White Labs California Ale yeast

3 weeks primary, another 2 weeks in secondary before bottling.

Thoughts? I am quite new to making up my own recipes so be honest.

MJP fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Mar 2, 2012

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
The hop choices are pure me, took from the descriptions of initially Cascade/Amarillo/Cascade.

So based on my original, here's my tweaked output via the Hopville calculator:


3lb wheat DME
1 lb 6 oz Weyermann pale wheat malt
1 lb 6 oz Breiss organic 2-row malt
1 lb 4 oz Breiss organic carapils malt
1 lb Weyermann CaraWheat malt

60 mins 1.0oz Cascade pellet 5.5% AA

30 mins 0.5 Ahtanum pellet 7.0% AA

5 mins 0.25 Pacific Gem pellet 13.0% AA

Hopville even lets you target a style, that is awesome.

This seems solid... is the carapils a good substitute for the rye?

MJP fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Mar 2, 2012

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
Would replacing the Carawheat with regular pilsner be a good substitution?

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

RiggenBlaque posted:

That certainly would be better, but you're not really going to gain much from doing it. I'd probably just add more 2-row to get to the OG you want.

Cool beans, advice is always helpful.

2lbs 6 oz Breiss orgo 2-row, no pilsner. Looks like I've got a recipe - I'll name it Goonish Citra Shortage Ale in honor of the thread.

If it wins anything in the competition I'll try very hard to slip in an acceptance speech about stairs in houses.

Edit: what about adding in some sweet orange peel with 5 minutes remaining of the boil? Or would that go into the primary/secondary fermentor?

MJP fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Mar 2, 2012

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

Splizwarf posted:

I'm looking to move beyond the offerings of my local shop (it's a farm and garden warehouse with some Brewer's Best kits) and wondering if there was a goon-preferred online shop. I live in Virginia so East Coast would be better; a day or two for shipping compared to a week.

I've used Northern Brewer and was very happy with it - they packed my liquid yeast in somewhat insulating wrap, which was pretty good at keeping it at the right temperature in transit. Plus it arrived in about three days (I'm in Jersey).

It had stickers to deliver quickly, but if I was going to order a bunch of yeast and hops I'd probably spring for express shipping and try to be home at or around the tiem of delivery.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
Okay, so I'm toying around with a partial mash vanilla porter recipe and I could use some advice on fermentables. In the end I'm looking for a more drinkable version of a porter, so any input is much appreciated. Feel free to point out obvious noob mistakes, I consider myself an obvious noob thus far.

Here's what I've plugged into Hopville:

4lb Muntons Amber DME
8oz Breiss Dark Chocolate
8oz Crisp Crystal (15L)

1oz Fuggles pellet - 60 mins remaining
.5oz Fuggles pellet - 30 mins remaining
.5oz Brambling Cross - 5 mins remaining

White Labs Burton Ale yeast (WLP023)

Primary until it calms down, secondary for two weeks with four vanilla beans, seeds scraped in and pods chopped

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

LeeMajors posted:

Porters aren't drinkable?

I meant something that wasn't too sweet/malty. My concern is that it'd end up too much like a stout - flavorful for sure but very big. Hard to put my finger on it.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

tesilential posted:

I only brewed extract briefly, but if you want a more drinkable porter definitely replace the amber DME with light or pilsen DME. The opposite of sweet is dry, so you want to get a higher attenuation and lower FG to get a nice crisp, drinkable porter.

I would use regular chocolate (if they have it in place of extra dark, probably even do extra light over extra dark) and reduce both that and the crystal down to 5 oz each. I really like brown malt in a porter, so throw in 5-6 oz of that to make up for reduction in quantity of the others.

Burton/Thames Valley yeast is a poor flocculator and good attenuator, so if you start at 64 and work your way up to 68* by the end of the first week you will help it keep munching on the sugars.

So if I go with regular chocolate instead of dark, I would just add a lighter brown malt?

Some revisions to see if I got it right with some adjuncts to make up changes in color/ABV:
-----
5lb Muntons Extra Light DME
8oz Crisp Crystal 15L
8oz Franco Belges Kiln Coffee 100L
8oz Breiss Chocolate 350L
4oz flaked barley
4oz flaked oats

1oz Fuggles pellet - 60 mins remaining
.5oz Fuggles pellet - 30 mins remaining
.5oz Brambling Cross - 5 mins remaining

White Labs Burton Ale yeast (WLP023)

Primary until it calms down, secondary for two weeks with four vanilla beans, seeds scraped in and pods chopped

4lb Muntons Amber DME
8oz Breiss Dark Chocolate
8oz Crisp Crystal (15L)

1oz Fuggles pellet - 60 mins remaining
.5oz Fuggles pellet - 30 mins remaining
.5oz Brambling Cross - 5 mins remaining

White Labs Burton Ale yeast (WLP023)
----
1.044 OG, 23 SRM (brown to dark brown), 24.9IBU and 4.3% ABV. Hopville targets it right in the middle between malty and hoppy, so it could be on or close.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

Docjowles posted:

Flaked barley and oats need to be mashed, so you'd want to sub in a pound or so of base malt for some of that DME and make it a partial mash. Otherwise you are adding a shitload of starch that won't convert to sugar and not really getting any benefit from the adjuncts.

I thought it was already a partial mash since I'm using the specialty grains for coloring?

Taking the DME down to 4lb and adding 1lb of Breiss Cherrywood Smoked Malt kept the stats neutral enough. Maybe the smoke flavor would be interesting with the vanilla, or is that too many aroma/flavor interactions?

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

Docjowles posted:

The definitions get a little tricky, but what you were planning is "extract plus steeping grains". To convert starches in unmalted grains like flaked oats, you need a base malt which is something like US 2 row, Munich Malt, Maris Otter or pilsner malt. These are malted at low temperatures and contain enzymes that convert the starch to sugar. Nearly all specialty grains are heated to higher temperatures to create deeper flavors and colors, but this same process destroys the enzymes. So they do nothing to help convert those starches. That's the definition of a mash, creating an environment where the enzymes in the base malt activate and covert starches to sugar. You can't have a mash with just specialty grains.

That smoked malt you linked says it still contains enzymes, so it would probably work, but I think it might be too much going on as you said. I'd just use straight US 2 row, it's cheap and pretty flavor neutral.

Gotcha, gotcha. I wanted to try a partial mash on this recipe; I'd previously done this, which I just bottled and I guess that's closer to a true partial mash.

How does this look?

3lb Muntons extra light DME
2lb Breiss Ashburne mild malt 5L
1lb Breiss organic 2-row 2L
8oz Crisp Crystal 15L
8oz Franco Belges Kiln Coffee 100L
8oz Breiss Chocolate 350L
4oz flaked barley
4oz flaked oats

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

wafflesnsegways posted:

To roughly define the terms, dunking grain in hot water without worrying too much about hitting an exact temperature is steeping. With some grains, it gives the beer flavor, aroma, and color.

Mashing is similar, but it focuses more on extracting fermentable sugars from the grain. It needs to be done more carefully, to make sure you keep the grain at just the temperature you need. It can affect the alcohol level, consistency, and other characteristics of the beer, beyond just flavor and color that you get from steeping.

Some grains can be steeped, others can only be mashed, and still others can only be mashed when they're sitting next to other grains.

The definitions are a little blurry, since some conversion is probably happening when steeping. But generally, when we say steep, we mean "drop it in some hot water and don't worry about it," and when we say mash, we mean "make sure that you are accurate and consistent with your temps and volumes for chemistry reasons."

That's what I've done thus far - periodic temperature checks and heating a little to maintain temperature during the steep.

Anyway, before I ignite semantic debate, am I OK with the below having omitted the adjuncts since I don't want it to be too thick-bodied?

3lb Muntons extra light DME
2lb Breiss Ashburne mild malt 5L
1lb Breiss organic 2-row 2L
8oz Crisp Crystal 15L
8oz Franco Belges Kiln Coffee 100L
8oz Breiss Chocolate 350L

1oz Fuggles pellet - 60 mins remaining
.5oz Fuggles pellet - 30 mins remaining
.5oz Brambling Cross - 5 mins remaining

White Labs Burton Ale yeast (WLP023)

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
It's apple-picking season and there's plenty of farmer's markets that sell their own no-preservatives pasteurized cider. I've had good success brewing partial mash homebrew and I've got the equipment, and after putting out a huge quantity of vanilla porter I'd like to give sparkling hard cider and maybe apfelwein a try.

This page seems to be pretty comprehensive, right down to yeast types: http://makinghardcider.com/index.html Would I be able to use the same Lalvin E-1118 yeast for both the cider and apfelwein, just so long as I bottle the cider and leave the apfelwein to ferment for a couple extra months? Or should I be using an ale yeast for the cider and the Lalvin for the apfelwein? Also, if I want really nice and clear cider, should I use this gelatin method with a secondary racking for around five or so days?

Any other goonbrewers have useful cider pointers?

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
Follow-up question: if I want my cider to have just a little bit of fizz, how much dextrose should I boil into water if I'm going to prime akin to beer?

Sionak, I like that idea and will be borrowing it. Is it just a matter of 2lbs brown sugar, just enough water, boil, cool, and add to the fermentor with the cider?

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
So a while ago I had a recipe for a raspberry wheat ale and got ingredients for it, but I lost the recipe and months past. I can't seem to locate it, but I've got the ingredients - might as well use 'em.

Anyone have any pointers for what to do with all this stuff? I have:

1 oz sweet orange peel
2 oz coriander seed
3lb Pilsen DME
4lb wheat DME
2lb flaked wheat
WLP400 yeast
2oz Willamette hops
A 3lb can of raspberry puree
Light brown candi sugar
White candi sugar

I've also got some leftover grains:
Appx 8oz British light caramel
Appx 8oz Franco-Belges Kiln Coffee
Appx 8oz Weyermann pale wheat
Appx 8oz Breiss organic Carapils

Any thoughts/pointers/recipes?

MJP fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Aug 3, 2013

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
So a while back, I started getting ingredients to make a raspberry wheat ale, and they've been sitting in my basement and fridge. I can't locate the recipe I was going to use, and I figure it's time to start thinking of making it for the spring/summer.
Here's my entire current inventory (doesn't all have to go into this, it's just listing what I have):

2 vials WLP400 Belgian wit yeast (expired in 2012 and 2013... I'm guessing I definitely have no use for them now)

2oz Willamette hops

2lbs flaked wheat

1 big can Vintner's Reserve red raspberry puree

4lb Munton's plain unhopped wheat DME

3lb Breis CBW Pilsen Light unhopped DME

2oz coriander seed

1oz sweet orange peel

1lb each white and soft brown Belgian candi sugar

I forget if I was going to do .5oz Willamette at 60 mins remaining, .5 at 20, and 1 at 5 mins.

Am I missing anything? Optimally I can hit up the LHBS today in hopes of brewing tomorrow. I've got all the Onestep I need and can grab some spring water from the grocery store. Good to go for airlocks, stoppers, funnels, etc.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

MJP posted:

So a while back, I started getting ingredients to make a raspberry wheat ale, and they've been sitting in my basement and fridge. I can't locate the recipe I was going to use, and I figure it's time to start thinking of making it for the spring/summer.
Here's my entire current inventory (doesn't all have to go into this, it's just listing what I have):

2 vials WLP400 Belgian wit yeast (expired in 2012 and 2013... I'm guessing I definitely have no use for them now)

2oz Willamette hops

2lbs flaked wheat

1 big can Vintner's Reserve red raspberry puree

4lb Munton's plain unhopped wheat DME

3lb Breis CBW Pilsen Light unhopped DME

2oz coriander seed

1oz sweet orange peel

1lb each white and soft brown Belgian candi sugar

I forget if I was going to do .5oz Willamette at 60 mins remaining, .5 at 20, and 1 at 5 mins.

Am I missing anything? Optimally I can hit up the LHBS today in hopes of brewing tomorrow. I've got all the Onestep I need and can grab some spring water from the grocery store. Good to go for airlocks, stoppers, funnels, etc.

Bumping in hopes of some assistance... anyone?

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MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

Jacobey000 posted:


The DME can go into the beer all at once.

Flaked wheat will want to soak for a bit, but you'll want to add 2row or even wheat malt (iirc)

add @5min
2oz coriander seed
1oz sweet orange peel
1lb each white and soft brown Belgian candi sugar

Your water should be more than fine, if it's drinkable and doesn't make you wretch you can brew with it.

Add the puree in secondary or after fermentation has ended (2 weeks)

If you want likely waste your time build a starter with both packs, but just buy dry wheat yeast if you aren't brewing that often or just buy liquid yeast the day you brew.

Your hop schedule looks okay.

Onestep is NOT a sanitizer, you'll need/want either idophor of the beloved STARSAN

Thanks for the advice - couple of followup questions:

1) Is 30 mins at 150 the right temp to mash the flaked wheat?
2) I've got hard water. Does that make a difference at all?
3) I added the 1lb sugars just as a mention. Never really added that much sugar to a wort before... is it just that this is extracty to the point that this is to boost the gravity?
4) Do I need to soak the coriander/orange peel in vodka or anything or are they safe to throw in from the sealed packages?
5) By dry wheat yeast do you mean just regular supermarket yeast? Alternatively, if I take a shot at making a starter, would I just take the yeast, feed it some sugar in a sanitized container, and let it go, feeding it some more sugar until brew day? I figure it's worth a shot to see if it's still alive, so if after a few days of startering(?) I could give up or use the startered yeast. (Never done a starter before)
6) Onestep's advertised as a sanitizer and I've never really had any issue with it... it's done fine in previous batches. Has something changed as of late that I should know about?
7) How much 2-row/wheat malt should I use for 5 gallons? Could I soak at 150 with the flaked wheat?

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