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Jan 17, 2010

I recently got a bunch of old bottles that I hoped to use for my next batch, but most of them have poo poo in the bottom. I'm guessing they weren't entirely emptied when the contents were consumed so some mold started colonizing the bottom. Then this was left to dry for years (quite possible decades). I've had some of them soaking with water and a bit of dish soap for days now, but it doesn't seem to do much at all. Is there anything that would do a better job than regular soap?


Jan 17, 2010

Brew day tomorrow, will try to make something IPAish

3kg light extract (Coopers)
1.5kg amber extract (Coopers)

30g Centennial (10%) for 60 min
50g Challenger (8.08%) for 15 min
50g Cascade (6.3%) for 2 min

Pacific Ale (WLP041)

Does this sound ok? I'm not too experienced with various hops yet, so any comments from the pros are welcomed. Also I can only boil about 10l so the gravity when boiling will be drat high, will this have any effect on the hopping? Can I compensate for this somehow?

Jan 17, 2010

indigi posted:

It'll reduce your utilization by a bunch, which will already be low due to a high OG. I plugged your numbers into beer calculus and you'd wind up with a 1.080 OG and ~17 IBUs. You'd have to up all your hop additions to ~100 grams to get into the realm of IPA bitterness. I'd say drop a kilo of the DME and up your Centennial to 50 grams, then do one more addition of Challenger or Cascade at 10 and you should be good.

Its LME, not DME so thats about 900g less sugars than your calculations presume, so it shouldn't be as high as 1.080

The utilization reduction was higher than I expected though, so I'm gonna have to rethink that part anyway. Maybe I could boil the bittering hops just water in a different pot? Or maybe let the bittering hops boil alone for a while before adding the LME?

Edit: I can increase hop amounts too, got 50g of the centennial, and 100g each of the others.

Lrrr fucked around with this message at Sep 24, 2011 around 21:45

Jan 17, 2010

Thanks for the advice all! I found a better brew calculator ( and played around a bit with the variables and adding most of the malts later in the process seems like the way to go (at least if I'm gonna be a cheapskate and not use all my hops.)

I think I'll boil the hops with just 1.5kg of the light LME and add the rest of the LME just before the last hop addition.

With the same hop amounts and boil times Ill be looking at 54.6 IBUs and a OG of 1.054 according to the calculator.

Jan 17, 2010

I fell in love with the hopville brew calculator, and started playing around with what I hope to become a Gonzo Imperial Porter copy. I may be pushing my luck here, but I wanna see how far I can go without any mashing and with a limited boiling volume. Hopefully my fellow goons can point out where I am just being silly and help me improve on the idea before brewday (ETA 10 days)

Here is the plan so far:

Steep special grains at 70C in 9L of water for 30 min:
750g Crystal 120L
300g American Black Patent
150g Dark Chocolate

Remove grains and bring to a boil and add 2kg Light DME and start adding the hops.
25g Warrior (16.7%) for 90 minutes
30g Northern Brewer (12.3%) for 60 minutes
30g Northern Brewer (12.3%) for 30 minutes
50g Cascade (6.3%) for 1 minute

Remove from the heat and add another 2.5kg Light DME, make sure its all dissolved then put my bot in an ice bath to drop the temperature as quickly as possible.

Add the additional water to make it a total of 20 liter, make sure its properly aerated and pitch the yeast. (Possibly White labs California Ale, not too sure about this yet.)

After 14 days transfer to secondary fermenter and add another 50g of the Cascade then bottle after another 14 days.

According to the calculations it should give 85.1 IBU (Tinseth), 9.5 ABV and 68 EBC

Will the residual heat be enough to make sure 2.5kg DME is fully dissolved and sterilized, or should I add it a bit earlier and let it boil for a few minutes? I figure if its not necessary to bring it to a boil again it will also aid in cooling the worth quickly, but I don't wanna risk ruining my brew over it.

Are all those special grains suitable for just steeping? I contemplated adding some smoked malt as well, but the internet told me smoked malt had to be mashed :/

Based on other recipes I came across I should use even more of the Cascade, but I'm contemplating adding some juniper berries instead, but I'm not sure how much to add or how to add it. Is there any juniper berry experts out there?

All feedback is highly appreciated!

Jan 17, 2010

clutchpuck posted:

Not sure about adding the extract post-boil. In my short partial boil experience, I've gone with pre-boiling and cooling the top-up water while all the extract subsequently gets boiled into a super-concentrated wort, then the two are combined. The cool top-up water helps bring the temp down quickly.

Super-concentrated worths give really bad hop utilization so thats why I wanted to add the rest of the DME as late as possible. On second thought I may just boil two batches. First boil the "extra" DME alone for a few minutes, then do the special grain and hop batch and combine the two of them.

indigi posted:

You're going to be adding an absolute shitload of unfermentable sugars here. It will probably end up underattenuated and cloyingly sweet. I'd suggest replacing some of the DME with cane sugar added after it's been fermenting for a few days. With high gravity extract brews underattenuation is one of the most common problems.

Care to elaborate on this? The DME says 97& attenuation, so replacing parts of that with sugars wouldn't matter that much would it? Wouldn't pretty much all the unfermentable sugars come from the special grains?

Also, how big would the difference in fermentable vs unfermentable sugars be for mashed vs steeped with these grains? I thought the reason why these grains where listed as suitable to use as special grains because there wasn't much enzyme action in them anyway so it didn't matter much if you mashed them or not. (Not trying to be a smart rear end here, just writing down what I'm lead to believe so the experts can point out any flaws.)

Docjowles posted:

Yeah I was gonna say, that seems like a fuckton of Crystal 120. I've never had that beer so maybe it's appropriate? But I'd consider cutting that, like, in half.

Amount of different malts is based on various all grain recipes I found looking more or less like this one:

2.5 lbs Crystal Malt 120L
1 lbs American Black Patent
1 oz Warrior (16.0%) - added during boil, boiled 90 min
1 oz Northern Brewer (8.0%) - added during boil, boiled 60 min
1 oz Northern Brewer (8.0%) - added during boil, boiled 30 min
3 oz Cascade (5.5%) - steeped after boil
4 oz Cascade (5.5%) - added dry to secondary fermenter
1 ea White Labs WLP001 California Ale
15 lbs Pale Ale Malt
.5 lbs Dark Chocolate Malt

Ratios are the same as mine (6:1 pale:crystal) except I use light DME for the pale ale malt. (Not adjusted for the higher attenuation of the DME.)

Keep chipping away at my ignorance please


Concerning much nonfermentable sugars, maybe a different strain of yest could negate this issue by at least going through every last bit of the fermentables?

Lrrr fucked around with this message at Sep 28, 2011 around 16:39

Jan 17, 2010

indigi posted:

I really don't know how DME could get 97% attenuation unless it's a blend of DME and sugar. Malt extract has to contain some unfermentable sugars to replicate the taste and mouthfeel you'd get from barley, and the highest I've ever seen DME rated was 80%. If it is, somehow, 97% attenuable, then you're right that all the unfermentables would comes from the special grains, but I don't know that that's possible. Are you sure it isn't listing 97% extract?

I'm not sure exactly how big the difference would be, but I know that if they were mashed the specialty grains would provide more fermentable sugars. You're right that getting color and flavor from them doesn't require mashing. And if you're using WLP550 you're already going to be getting getting about the highest apparent attenuation beer yeast can give (outside a couple saison strains which might not fit in in a stout).

You are probably right about the 97% being the extract percentage, not the attenuation, and that does change it quite a bit. I think I spotted the error in my understanding in the special grains as well. I read somewhere that it had no enzymes, so I assumed it wouldn't matter if I mashed it at all, but now I've realized that the enzymes from the other grains can work on those special grains as well in a full mash, which also changes up the picture.

Dropping some of the DME and some of the Crystal seems like the way to go then. Now the question is how much do I drop? I don't want to cut back too much and end up with a poring bland beer, but I don't want to ruin in by ending up with a FG in the regular OG range either. How do I find the balance?

As for the sugars, do they add anything to the taste and feel of the beer or is it just boosting the ABV? If its the latter then I may skip it and let the ABV drop down a bit. Its taste I'm after, and Ill get pretty drunk from 6-7% if thats what I want anyway

Jan 17, 2010

indigi posted:

I try to use 1 pound or less of crystal malts in extract beers. 300g should be enough, Special B is a very strong flavor malt.

Sugar will ferment out 100% and increase the abv without directly adding any flavors, but an increase in abv can have unique and profound effects on flavor and mouthfeel. Alcohol itself is fairly sweet, and in a higher OG wort yeast will produce more fermentation byproducts. When you add the sugar can effect final flavor, too - if you add it to the boil, the higher percentage of simple sugars at the start will lead to more fusel alcohol formation; later, when the environment is more hostile to yeast, you'll get more esters and other stress-induced fermentation byproducts (which isn't always a bad thing with Belgian yeast).

The most important thing is pitching enough yeast and maintaining temperature control, cause there's less margin for error on high gravity brews before your yeast get fed up and ruin the beer.

You do make a lot of sense. I guess I'll drop the crystal to 300g then. How much of the DME should I exchange for sugar? 1-2kg? And I assume I should only add 80% sugars by weight for the DME I take out to get same abv? Is one vial enough yeast or should I make a starter/ get two vials?

As for temperature excessive heat isn't that big of a problem in Norway.

Jan 17, 2010

tesilential posted:

You probably don't want to go over 20% sugar.

Look 2 posts above you. Too much dark malt is bad. You can brew a stout with 12 oz of roast barely and the rest pale malt. Start with simple recipes or you will never understand what each ingredient contributes to the beer.

Chuck out 1kg of DME and add 800g sugar then? Would you say 12 oz would be enough for a baltic porter or russian imperial stout too?


Jan 17, 2010

Has anyone tried one of these?

I'm hoping to be able to use something like that for mashing with multiple steps/rests, so wondering if there was an easy way to add a DIY filtering device for the lautering, or if I would need a separate lautering tun. Also I wonder if 2kW is really enough to give a 20+ liter batch a proper boil.

For bonus points: Can such a pot double as a sous vide rig?

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