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I have a question and I realize it's a really broad question but I'm just looking for a base point to start from. Unfortunately I forgot the recipe I want to modify at home so I can't give details. Is there an average quantity adjustment you'd use for exchanging hop pellets/plugs for fresh (even if frozen)? I came into some cascade and chinook hops I want to use. I know chinook is extremely bitter and probably only fit for IPAs, but the cascade I'd like to use as a dryhopper. Unfortunately for my particular use I'm not even swapping cascade pellets for fresh cascade, I think it used Saaz but I can put up quantities/types when I get home hopefully. I'm FAIRLY certain there were two 1oz plugs put in for dry hopping in the kit... edit: this is pretty much the recipe, but the honey addition this guy did himself, it wasn't part of the kit http://brewkettle.blogspot.com/2007/07/fenway-golden-ale.html Morbid Florist fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Oct 7, 2011 |
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Oct 7, 2011 16:56
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Docjowles posted:Based on a few seconds of random googling, you get about 10% more bitterness out of pellets than you do out of whole. So a 50 IBU recipe with whole would yield 55 IBU's with pellet etc. No poo poo. I thought I'd read that I'd need more fresh but the amount could vary depending on form. Now to start figuring out what I'd want to use to substitute kent goldings for cascades...
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Oct 7, 2011 18:21
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Jo3sh posted:If by "fresh" you mean just harvested, not dried, "wet," then yes, you'll need more than for dry hops. Lots more. 5x the weight is the rule of thumb, I think. Ah now we're getting into what I suspected might be a problem. I got these from someone via someone else. I know he grew them and froze them. I don't know if they were dried or not. Is it common for people to freeze them without drying them first? I know everyone's different but I don't know if there's a general rule of thumb people would try and follow if they're THIS into brewing beer that they'd grow their own hops.
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Oct 7, 2011 20:52
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Can cutting down mid-boil hops from 1oz to .75oz throw your OG up .20 points? This is the second time I've made this kit, first was on target, this one was supposed to be in the .40's but going into the primary it was about .65. WTF
Morbid Florist fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Oct 10, 2011 |
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Oct 10, 2011 15:58
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Docjowles posted:No, hops have no effect on gravity. Probably one of two things. Either you didn't use quite enough top-up water, or the extract didn't completely dissolve and you happened to sample an especially sugary part. Extract is really hard to completely and evenly dissolve. Alright the extract would be a good suspect. It was a powder and I do prefer syrup for the incorporation difference. Crushing bagged coloring grains couldn't do that much damage I assume, especially since I didn't do that thorough of a job cracking them. Guess I'll find out in a few weeks. Thanks for the tip
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Oct 10, 2011 16:45
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Jo3sh posted:That's another thing to consider - if the recipe was written for syrup, but you subbed in dry extract pound for pound, you would get a higher gravity than projected, as dry extract contributes a little more gravity per pound. I don't believe it was made for syrup but I don't have the recipe in front of me at work. But the kits I've done with syrup in them have been WAY better to work in the wort. I may actually try and swap the dry with syrup next time I make it since this beer seems to be my guinea pig now. But anyways, hops were the only tinkering this time. I'll have to look at the original recipe from the first batch but I'm pretty sure this was a dry extract beer by design.
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Oct 10, 2011 18:45
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Well the things you learn... You know what else can drive up your original gravity? Not adding your last gallon of water to your fermenter It's only been 4 days, so yesterday I added it during the transfer to my secondary for dry hopping. Anyone have ideas about how this might go?
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Oct 13, 2011 15:20
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Jo3sh posted:It will be fine. In fact, this is related to a technique I have seen advocated for making flavorful, but lower-alcohol beer: doing a high-gravity ferment to get the complexity of a strong beer, then cutting it with water to keep the alcohol content manageable. I doubt you'll have much of a noticeable effect at ~1.065 OG, but at least there's precedent. This was distilled so I'm not worried about it getting contaminated. That's an interesting thing about making a lighter beer though, since that's kinda what I'm going for with this recipe: making an all-day-party drinker. Maybe I screwed my way into the right path for next time 
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Oct 13, 2011 16:08
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tesilential posted:It reached final gravity in 4 days? No I moved it to my secondary after 4 days, and dry hopped. I've still got another week at least.
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Oct 13, 2011 18:36
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Hey if it wasn't for the secondary transfer I'd never have known about the missing water and I'd have bunk beer. Not to mention I seem to have accidentally stumbled on a potential path for making my own light ale.
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Oct 13, 2011 19:03
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mewse posted:primary fermentation is when the yeast converts all the simple sugars into alcohol. you shouldn't transfer to the secondary fermenter until your beer has reached final gravity. I'm following the kit recipe, and it says to move/dry hop 3-4 days in. But that's an interesting page you linked. Just by nature of my space/setup I'm having the bottle conditioning experiment he's describing every batch even if I haven't paid attention to it yet.
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Oct 13, 2011 21:32
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Jo3sh posted:It's going to be just fine. But it would have been just fine without the move to secondary also. MorbidFlorist, many/most of us do single-stage ferments for most/all of our beers. The consensus is that secondaries are kind of deprecated. I've tried out one stage but I have to say I find the taste a little bit cleaner/lighter doing the transfer. There's probably some beers I'll like better without the move. But last time I did it all single stage the fucker blew out on me, got beer mung everywhere and ended up dragging back all the crap that gets stuck on the upper parts of a carboy. It didn't turn out BAD but it wasn't as good.
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Oct 14, 2011 14:15
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tesilential posted:Keep in mind brewing kit instructions are written for alcoholics who want beer ASAP and don't much care how good it is. Take your time and do it right! Well I'm probably in between boozebag and aspiring artist  My strategy now is to keep making the 6-7 kits I've done already but change things each time so I can learn what makes what happen, so there's plenty of room for changes. Right now is the ingredient tinkering, process changes are next.
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Oct 14, 2011 17:15
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Does anyone know ANY of the ingredients Speakeasy uses in their beers? The Big Daddy IPA and the Prohibition Ale in particular. It's time to start making my first recipe and they're one I'd like to know what's under the hood. On their site it just says "3 varieties of northwestern hops", and that makes me think of Cascade, Chinook, but there has to be more growing up there... Morbid Florist fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Nov 8, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 15:42
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I've had it with rolling pins and baking pans, spilled or uncracked grain. The beer store has said the grain mill they sell isn't worth the money they have to ask for it. What do people here use for their grain crackins? It seems like a really fine line to walk between breaking the husks and turning them into powder...
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Feb 9, 2012 17:14
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