Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us $3,400 per month for bandwidth bills alone, and since we don't believe in shoving popup ads to our registered users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
«3 »
  • Post
  • Reply
Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Hypnolobster posted:

Haha, NE Ohio.

I'd be selling it around the end of next summer, and probably for a bit more than $150 after I've done the windshields. My pump shields are going to be sealed top and front with air intake on the bottom so that the pump heads can be sprayed down to get hot sticky wort off of them and I'll sell those separately as I want to remake those in stainless as well.

I've got a lot of hours into it, but the steel as it sits was only about $80. It's good practice for me. Hell, I might just get more mild steel and build a copy of it and sell it.


Maybe I should sell it for more than $150

Wait, are you in LMHBA? S.N.O.B.S.? To think we might've met...

Which is to say hell yes I'm in good shape to negotiate for a cheep brew stand.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Hypnolobster posted:

I keep meaning to join SNOBS, LMHBA and SAAZ but I constantly forget to do it. For being so obsessed with homebrewing, I'm not really active in the community. I need to start because I'd absolutely love to build some giant burner stands and get something exciting going like 55 gallon club batches to fill barrels and fun things like that.

I just joined LMHBA about three months ago, they're fairly young as an organization so a club barrel-aged beer is still a bit unrealistic, but I know SNOBS do some of that awesome goofy stuff. Alas, I'm an east-sider.

LMHBA's next meeting is Oct 15th. I'm just saying.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


From my understanding, while yes you'll want to mash smoked malt to gain any fermentable sugars out of it, you can still gain the desired smoked character of the grain by including it in the steeping.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


I have a pumpkin spice ale nearing the end of two weeks in primary, as I talked to the owner of my LHBS he mentioned to actually get some PUMPKIN flavor in the drat beer to caramelize some pumpkin and throw it in a secondary and accept the fact I'll have a pretty drat cloudy beer. Does anyone have any experience with this? Does this just open me up to infection?

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Jo3sh posted:

It's not going to be as deep brown/black as I usually think a porter should be. Chocolate wheat seems less dark to me than choc barley malt. It does look good, but I think you will get more like a brown wheat beer than a wheat porter.

Yeah, I'd say maybe a bit of some debittered black malt might get it more to what you'd think of for a porter without messing up the character

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


what kind of ABV can Montrachet yeast handle as opposed to danstar's pasteur champagne? I'd like to try it in my pseudo-cyser recipe but I don't know what Montrachet can handle

here is my recipe i used for the first batch:
5 gallons local orchard cider
4# local wildflower honey
1# un-local as hell brown sugar
champagne yeast

if i replaced the pound of brown sugar with two pounds more of honey, how much more fermentable sugars can i reasonably expect? would montrachet still get me pretty dry?

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Ok, one thing that has bothered me that I know is probably RDWHAHB is the process of transferring from brew kettle to fermenter. Mainly, all of my concerns are cold break. Once the proteins have precipitated, does it matter if they stay in the fermenter, as they inevitably do if you just use a strainer and funnel like I do? Basically I'm asking is once the proteins coagulate can they find their way into the beer again. Would it be best to whirlpool and siphon, like you would find in a commercial setting?

It just seems like one of those steps and concepts most books don't really seem to cover or explain and I figure maybe I'm missing something. Hell even Palmer doesn't really overthink it like you'd expect a tried and true engineer like Palmer would.

Darth Goku Jr fucked around with this message at Oct 4, 2011 around 17:56

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Ok, so I'm not exactly the biggest hop head, but my friend wants to... basically overpay for supplies and let me keep the difference if i decided to make an DIPA. Specifically if i made one with a lot of intense citrusy flavor and aroma. So far I know potential hops to use would include amarillo, galaxy, centennial, Nelson Sauvin, citra etc. Does anyone have a go to citrus bomb recipe? I do BIAB partial mashes.

He only wants to give me money for the supplies, I said nothing about him BUYING the beer. That's illegal fellas.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


deebo posted:

Because of the small ammount of blueberries I figured the flavour may be pretty subtle and better suited to a lager (may get a slight color from the blueberries also). But having said that I think I will go with us-05 as thats fairly neutral anyway.

Have already done the boil so too late to add them to that, I could just boil them on the stove in some water but wanted to avoid this as im not sure what this will do to the flavour of the berries or how the pectin will effect the beer.

I basically just wanted to get a slightly blueberry flavour and maybe slight ammount of colour from them.

But if the small ammount isnt going to do anything except risk infection maybe I will just skip it this time.

I'd say a Kolsch yeast is what you would want to look for for this in the future, most of the lager characteristics without being nearly as finicky with all the extra poo poo going on, and also from experience with a local brewery doing a drat good blueberry honey kolsch, where just like you say, they went with more of an impression of blueberry than anything else. And yes they do lagers (really well) so it isn't a matter of convenience for them.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


You sort of allude to this being an event, instead of just having whatever ready whenever. Am I reading too much into it?

Depending on the crowd, you'd probably want to favor session style beers (kolsch, any bitter/pale ale, dry stout, brown ale, various hybrids) and maybe one or two funkier ones (your quad, dipa, rauchbier, spiced).

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


This is kind of an awkward question, but can anyone that owns Radical Brewing repost the 'recipe' for the oatmeal cookie brown ale from the holiday beer section? I for the life of me can't find my copy right now and I'd like to make it to my LHBS today or tomorrow.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Hypnolobster posted:

I've made this twice and actually really liked it. It's mostly just a brown ale with a really nice biscuity toasty character and an awesome head. A really light hand with some spices would probably go really really well.

Thanks a lot. Ugh I'm going to have to buy the book again, it was way too awesome to not have around.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Whoa, didn't realize you were insane.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


But much like a propane tank at wherever you buy tanks, once you're in, you're in. That 85-90 dollars would pretty much cover you for life with a tank.

edit: i guess actually the best way would be to buy that pretty co2 tank and just know you're not going to keep it

Darth Goku Jr fucked around with this message at Oct 21, 2011 around 16:06

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


I'm cold conditioning a kolsch right now (going on two weeks) and was wondering: If I'm going bottle condition it, will I have a tough time with carbonation?

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


not really even coming close to an answer since i'm brewing my first ever stout of any kind next week, but to mutilate the phrase: if 1.084 to 1.022 is smaller i don't want to be big. otohI know B.O.R.I.S., a well received oatmeal RIS, (the B is bodacious) has a FG of 1.036 (holy poo poo) so I guess there is room for growth

what's your end game in adding sugar? is it just alcohol you want or the warmness or the hotnesss or really i think at ~8.1% abv doesn't beg for a bunch of extra opportunities to introduce something unwanted for the sake of those qualities.

lastly, what is rahr two row and does 'crisp' actually mean anything?

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Speaking of, RDWHAHB reached it's limit today during my bottling session and basically i'm going all keg all the time and never going back if i can help it. Jesus.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Monkeybutt posted:

I've been brewing root beer and am having difficulty with either the bottling or fermentation. Almost all of the recipes I've worked with say the bottles should be allowed to ferment 3-4 days 'or until hard.' In my attempts, they get extremely firm within 24 hours, distended within 48 and the one time I let it go longer than that... boom! I've filled the bottles bout 80% full and the general rule of thumb has been 1/8tsp of ale yeast per gallon.

My questions are:
- How important is it that they get 3-4 days fermentation, or is retarding it at 24 going to allow for enough carbonation?
- Would I be better off modifying the yeast content and continuing to bottle at 80% full, or should I keep the yeast ratio where it's at and fill my bottles even less full?
- How would champagne yeast react in comparison to ale yeast?
- Any other suggestions on where the problem might come from.

Champagne yeast would with your current set-up be just as bad or worse, maybe a bit slower though. Is this all of the fermentation? i don't see why you couldn't do what home-brewers do and let all of the initial fermentation happen, then either add a small amount of sugar to the solution OR a measured amount of sugar in every bottle to insure safe, non-explosive carbonation levels

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


So i brewed an alt and this is my first time with a thermowell and a thermostat blah blah. long story short my target temp was 60 (i pitched at 65) but i accidentally let it get down to 50. will this adversely affect fermentation in any way?

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


I don't know if you mean the electric meat probes, but I have one and it has immensely helped my brew day experiences. You can set alerts for when it reaches a certain temperature for various parts of brew day (heating strike water, insuring a rest stays above/below certain temps, cooling, etc) allowing you to focus on other parts of your day (drinking or i dunno, sanitizing. whatevah).

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


You shouldn't boil the honey, though you should definitely warm it up to make it runnier. Aromas boil off and honey is a hostile enough enviroment for bacteria as it is.

And Jo3sh that sounds awesome

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Today I learned that if I'm going to toast some oats, that they're going to affect the math needed for a proper saccharification temp more than I guessed. Or alternatively, cool the drat oats a bit more.

Is it reaching 168 where you officially screwed the pooch? I think i hit 163 max for at least where my probe was. How screwed up could it be? Eh whatever rdwhahb

Darth Goku Jr fucked around with this message at Oct 31, 2011 around 22:59

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Correct me if I'm wrong, but steeping with ~50% Munich at 150 sounds like almost a mini-mash. It's not a bogey man so whatever. It's all good.

Also the 'sparge' is probably just pulling your bag out and pouring some water over the grain to make sure you get all of whatever you need out of it. See: RDWHAHB

Edit: which is not to say maybe you need an additional pot for heating up that water separately. I'd hope you have a pot for that but I won't assume, because several people in my life have advised against that over the years.

Darth Goku Jr fucked around with this message at Nov 6, 2011 around 04:51

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


crazyfish posted:

Speaking of strainer bags, I want to do my next batch as a partial mash BIAB and I wasn't able to find a strainer bag that would fit over my 8 gallon pot. The biggest one I could find was only 5 gallons, and while it would work as a hop bag for sure, it's far too small to put 8 pounds of grains in. Anyone know where I could find something like, say, the bag used in this video? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kfi86yzhPvw

I have an 8 gallon pot like you're talking about, and a 5-gallon strainer bag and I'm doing just fine. It can hold 8# easily an I'm guessing I could push 10 or 11 if I had to. What I've done is use the technique Jamil Describes where I have a 4 gallon aluminum pot I use as a sort of lauter tun for conversion, then I transfer to rinse and sparge the bag in my 8-gallon stainless brew kettle.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Hypnolobster posted:

e: related chemicals tip: For people using StarSan, BUY DISPOSABLE PIPETTES. 3ml or 6ml pipettes let you mix 1 gallon of starsan in moments. 1 gallon needs 5.9ml of star san and you don't have to mix the basically required for accuracy 2.5 gallons/.5oz anymore. I've had a bunch of sterile pipettes for a while but always just used them for taking refractometer samples during brewday. This is a way cooler use.

This makes so much sense that I'm angry at myself for having to have been told it. Thanks.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Zakath posted:

What's the reason for cold crashing? I imagine it's to allow the yeast to settle out for decanting. I guess there must not be any problem changing the temperature that quickly on a starter.

The main reason people decant larger starters is you've just oxygenated the poo poo out of all of that unhopped beer left in the flask and it can contribute off flavors in the finished project.

If unhopped super young beer is perfectly good booze I don't want to know what's not good. And I've had decanted starters take off in less than 2 hours so I think that's a non-issue too.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


.75# of crystal for a 3 gallon batch? sounds a bit excessive to me.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Scottw330 posted:


Here is what I have for the recipe so far. This is my first attempt at making a recipe so be nice! I tried to stay within the guidelines for the style with respect to the ingredients and the OG/IBU/SRM.

Malts:
5.5 lbs Amber Liquid Extract
4 lbs Light Dry Extract
1 lb Crystal Malt - 80SRM

Hops:
2 oz Hallertauer (Boil 60 min)
1 oz Hallertauer (Boil 20 min)

Yeast:
1 Pkg German Bock Lager White Labs #WLP833
1 Pkg Munich Lager Wyeast Labs #2308

Other:
.25 oz Irish Moss
4 oz Oak Chips (?)

Batch Size: 5 gal
Boil Volume: 3.15 gal
OG: 1.075
IBU: 20.7
Color: 16.4 SRM
Est ABV: 7.4%

How does this look? Any suggestions? Thanks for the help thus far!

I would ditch the amber and light and go with a mixture of extra light/pilsner lme/dme and Munich lme and completely ditch the crystal. The reason you want to go as light as possible with these extracts is it's the best way to make sure it's highly fermentable extract, even with a lager that's going to finish closer to 1.020 the amber dme is more likely going to push you in to cloying territory, especially with crystal, which doesn't really have any place in a German lager. Looking at Jamil's BCS maybe CaraMunich would be a suitable steeping grain.

Earlier you said you wanted to start with 'just a simple dopplebock'. While all german lagers have a elegant simplicity to them, they're anything but. Do you have a better way to oxygenate the wort besides shaking it?

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


ok so a while back I asked for a citrcus hop bomb recipe to make for a friend, and i got what amounted to a Zombie Dust clone, with all citra and uk pale ale malt. Dude really enjoyed it and wants to go again, but with some adjustments. He wants it a bit maltier in taste and does want a hint of resiny or piney hops to balance out the large amounts of citrus. Would switching to Maris Otter take care of the maltiness?

The hop schedule was an ounce each at 60, 15, 5, & 1 minute with 3 oz dry hopped. I was thinking simcoe and maybe making the 15 or 5 minute addition into half an ounce of each. Thoughts?

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


I had an internship at a small rear end production brewery in Youngstown. When you've actually done more 'professional' brewing than homebrew, you really miss steam-jacketed brew kettles and glycol systems. A plus about homebrew is you never have to go full gloves and glasses to use cleaning chemicals.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Just got back from my local homebrew club's Christmas party. This is awesome. For a $15 biannual dues I get a 10% discount at my LHBS, I got to try an '04 World Wide Stout and a 94'(!!) Sam Adams triple bock, got 5 of those Sam Adams whatever glasses, and blah blah blah.

I'm sorry if this sounds like bragging, but I'm actually trying to get any Cleveland area goons to consider joining LMHBA or SNOBS. And just showing anyone not in a local homebrew group the awesome benefits outside of great feedback on your brews that (unfortunately) is simply impossible on the internet (though they're working on that).

Join your drat local club.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


No, it's not like that would make you go from cloying to champagne-like dryness if that's what you mean. I would say a general rule I have is never exceed a pound of crystal malts in a recipe. It will still be a plenty rich beer.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Dolemite posted:

Question for BIAB-ers:

I learned the hard way that I just can't go much more above 5 gallons of water in my kettle. I mashed with 7.5 gallons of water and when I dropped the grain basket in, the water displaced high enough to flow up and over the walls of the basket and draw the grains out into the wort. This means I obviously need to mash with less water. If I just mashed with ~5 gallons of water and then topped off at the end of the mash, is that doable? My immediate concern is that I'll end up with lovely efficiency.

I do a sort of modified Jamil BIAB where I in a smaller four gallon pot mash in at around the normal 1.25/1.5 quarts/pound of grain, and after conversion I mash out. Meanwhile, I have a second pot with whatever water I need for a full volume boil MINUS one gallon, heated to around 170 too. I transfer the bag to the second pot, rinse/sparge as well as i can, and while holding the bag over the pot, use that last gallon to 'sparge'.

It's a bit of extra work but it's to avoid tannin extraction and blah blah that would happen with BIAB's whacked out grain:water ratio.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Hypnolobster posted:

Also, iodophor is a great sanitizer, it's just that Star San is better. Foam is wonderful.

lol Which reminds me, yesterday I went back to read Joy of Homebrewing to make sure it was all solid and whatnot so I could give it to a friend, and in the section where he talks about sanitizers, he mentions he likes star san, but he warns about the foam and how you want to avoid it.

Oh, Steve... Or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying, Have a Homebrew, and Love the Foam.

Our precious alcoholic fluids.... well I think this is what I get for having my first two dopplebocks in well over a year.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Prefect Six posted:

Does the BJCP hate Mosher?

drat Mosher and his not being overly concerned about fitting into a specific style by necessity!

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


No experience but since it's in Sam Adam's Noble Pils it can't be too terrible of an idea.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Prefect Six posted:

Anyone have any experience with Ranco temp controllers? Do they have anti-short cycle protection? I know the digital Johnson one does, but it's not dual-stage. I was hoping for a dual-stage with the short cycle protection since I think I've already killed one chest freezer from using the analog johnson controller.

Thanks!

When you say dual-stage, do you mean it can heat and cool if needed? IMO I don't see how you'd need both for a single brew- you either know it'll be warmed or cooled from whatever base temp you're dealing with - and the johnson digital only takes about 30 seconds to change cool/heat cut-in/cut-out.

But I don't know your needs.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


mewse posted:

I think I'm going to buckle and order star san from morebeer because I have no idea where to find it locally in Winnipeg, or even a reputable online shop in Canada.

Anyone know a morebeer extract/minimash kit that is something special that you wouldn't be able to find at your LHBS?

I enjoyed their Pliny the Elder clone kit, and it was nice because some of the hop varieties can be a bitch to find on their own.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


O-o-o-o-out of style? You monster.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand


Interested? yes. think it's even sort of feasible without a significant investment by everyone? noooooope.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply
«3 »