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Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:

wattershed posted:


Is there any hope that the bitterness of the lemon will ease off a bit the longer I let it sit, or is bitterness not really a characteristic that fades in time? In addition, could the brett still 'come alive' or is that window closed? I've been fermenting at around 63-67 degrees, with some variance on both sides of that depending on our weather.

Also, is there anything at this point I might be able to introduce to curb the bitterness a bit without it tasting artificially sweet? This has been a great lesson in balance and adding malt profiles which round out a beer, so I'm not unhappy with the current status at the expense of learning a lesson, but I'm hoping this can be my go-to spring beer of choice and I want to make it as awesome as I can.

I am not familiar with that particular strain, but brett is a slow mover as far as developing taste. Spring beers to me at least need a certain freshness so those two ideas are at odds though.

Next time, look into some Special "B" to round it out. care to post the recipe?

Edit, also a thing to remember, saison yeast is the champagne yeast of the beer world. poo poo will eat sugar it can and will easily end up in the 1.000-1.005 range. unfermentables are your friend for adding body to a saison

Darth Goku Jr fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Mar 13, 2012

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Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:
Yeah, the club I'm a VP of is now four years old and finally really pushing towards being a capital H Homebrew Club (hosting a 150+ entry competition this year that is AHA pro-am eligible :hellyeah:)and whatnot, and just being a group of people that like beer at first seems to be a necessary evil. From my talks with the club founder, it was a real scatter-shot organization at first that wasn't even majority brewers for the first two years.

PM if you want to ask any questions.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:

Acceptableloss posted:

Ugh. I apparently suck at all grain brewing. I always seem to have trouble getting anywhere near my target gravity. Just finished sparging my wheat beer after a 3hr mash and got something like 47% efficiency. I had 16lbs of grain; my target OG was 1.059 and I only got 1.040. I guess I'll just add like 3lbs of light DME to make it up. I just wish I knew WTF I was doing wrong.

My mash tun has a false bottom with space for about 1-2 gal underneath it so I can heat with direct fire. Could that have something to do with my problem?

Do you mash out? That helped my efficiency by a good 10 points.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:

LeeMajors posted:

....and I can use less DME in my starter (doing a 1.090 starter sucks) :colbert:

I've been thinking of doing this since I got that powerpoint from The Bruery on super-attenuation, but wasn't sure if the sugar contributes same gravity points post boil as during the boil.

Thanks man.

Whoa whoa whoa, from what I've read, you don't want a starter getting too far north of 1.040, because of the whole shock thing. You do the 1.040 starter to prepare for 1.090 conditions


So getting back to my maple syrup question, the brix of the maple syrup is 67.9, so what is the best way to plug that into a recipe on beer smith to get the right math? Do I need to weigh a known measure then go from there?

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:

beetlo posted:

Maple Syrup is already in Beersmith 2 under grains (They need a better name for this category. Fermentables perhaps?). 1.030 SG.

Yeah I know it was, but I didn't want to assume anything as far as their grade of syrup or specific gravity, and then I did convert to SG at 1.341 but couldn't get the program to let me go that high.

Jo3sh posted:

67.9 brix is 1.341 it says here. Each gallon of maple syrup therefore contains 341 points of extract, or about 21 points per cup.

For the sake of argument, let's say you wanted to make 5 gallons of wort at 1.060 and you had 1.045 accounted for with malt. If you wanted to make up the difference with maple syrup, you would need 15 points times 5 gallons, or 75 points. At 21 points per cup of syrup, you would need just over 3 1/2 cups of maple syrup.

Or you can trust Hopville, which calls maple syrup 30 points per pound per gallon, and add your syrup by weight. 75 points of extract would therefore be 2.5 pounds. I'm not sure how heavy maple syrup is per volume, but that's probably pretty close to 3.5 cups.

Duh, specific gravity is density as related to water, which is defined as 1.000; we can assume then that maple syrup is 1.341 times as dense as water. Maple syrup at 67.9 brix should then weigh about 11.175 pounds per gallon, and 2.5 pounds of the stuff should have a volume of 3.584 cups. So yes, it looks like Hopville's number of 30 PPG for maple syrup is accurate.

Ahh, this makes a lot more sense on how to look at it. Thanks a lot.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:
Well, I think I might've killed my yeast I wanted to use for brewing tomorrow. starter is showing no signs of activity after 30 hours and no sign of a really young beer. The vial got up to 80+* the day before I made the starter since i forgot to take it out of my car right away. Samn.

it's Cry Havoc for what it's worth, maybe it's just super slow?

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:

internet celebrity posted:

I had a weird idea and I just can't shake it, please tell me how terrible this is going to be. I want to make an experimental beer with equal parts barley, wheat, rye and maybe some other adjuncts like corn, rice, and oats in smaller amounts. Super long boil, I'd shoot for ~1.100 OG and use a clean, well attenuating ale yeast. Hops would be all the leftovers I have in my freezer (Willamette, nugget, and cascade) and I'd call it Chimera Ale. I know it would probably be a total mess of flavors fighting with each other but the novelty of making a beer with just about every common fermentable grain is really appealing to me.

Worst case scenario you have several gallons of beer you have to let age for a year or something. That the idea is appealing to you is all the justification you need. For added chimera-ness I'd say get some dank hops in there too, so all of hop-dom is represented, but that could be the straw that breaks the camel's back.

Godspeed, goon brewer.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:

crazyfish posted:

What are everyone's favourite brewing books? So far I've read through all of Brew Like A Monk and Designing Great Beers. I liked BLAM. While DGB was a very good reference, it was pretty dry. I've gotten into all-grain recently, and I think I'd like a book that has some stuff on mashing theory (how the different steps work, etc.) and books on how to formulate recipes. Any recommendations?

The second you said mashing theory I immediately thought of Noonan's New Brewing Lager book. To a complete lay person like myself I think it makes the science of mashing (though the water chemistry section is making my eyes glaze just thinking about it) actually pretty compelling.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:
Take the idea of a IPA's bigger presense, but scale down the bite. Think 21st's Bitter American. Nice clean palate, good strong hop aroma, but only 44 IBU and ~4.4% abv. Yes it's just an APA but not in the way most think of it. BYO has a clone for it and some other canned microbrews.

EDIT: and a sort of emergency on my side of brewing. Brewing an IPA for a competition, and after five minutes of the boil, I left (dry hopping another beer) and came back to the burner not being lit. First off that freaked me out from a safety perspective, but now I'm worried about when it went out and making sure my IBU calculations are correct. Ugh. Luckily I have two pounds of citra and some simcoe left cause while it will still definitely be drinkable, i'm worried about my ability to enter this and do well now.

Darth Goku Jr fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Apr 18, 2012

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:

Hypnolobster posted:

Jesus christ, I forgot how evil WLP550 is. I opened the door to my ferment fridge, saw a hugely swelled bucket lid, poked it gently and the airlock shot out and then the bucket plastered a giant quantity of krausen all over my fridge.

That and WLP023. The worst thing about WL023 is if you haven't used it before it lulls you in to a semblence of complacency for the first 36 hours of primary (even a good starter), so you might be tempted to take the blowoff hose you had rigged off. The danger has passed right? DO NOT DO THIS. The second the yeast somehow sees you did this and leave the rooom it'll go all Vesuvius on you.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:

wattershed posted:


I know the en vogue thing to do is the single hop IPA, but I'm waiting for someone to crank out a line of Belgians with single yeasts, something in the dubbel/tripel vein, to show the public how unique those strains are.

In the beer thread like a week ago they were talking about westy 12 vs ABT 12 and someone made the comment 'well, who cares they're the exact same recipe except only the yeast is different' and I wanted to scream (on the internet) about how that's precisely the difference but it was well past the discussion when i saw it.

I feel like beginners overthink their grain bill while basically picking their yeast out of a hat like an after thought.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:
If anything I'd call it a German phenomenon co-opted by craft beer marketing. It definitely sounds cool to say your following the precious purity of FREAKING 1516 Reinheitsgebot, even though most reasons for it's inception are flat-out obsolete.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:
It's a way to mimic some of the effects of decoctions, when boiling a mash with a high percentage of pilsner malt a good way to reduce DMS, and plain ol' just a way to take the OG beyond what restraints natural mashing methods offer.

Post 4000 :taco::synpa:

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:

PokeJoe posted:

Is there any real point to using a glass carboy? I've always fermented in buckets but I got a carboy in that kit I won and I don't know what I would ever do with it. Maybe I'll make some mead and leave it in a closet forever.

Short answer to avoid the lengthy discussion that happens everytime. If you ever HAVE to transfer for whatever reason a carboy is better to avoid head-space and oxygenation, but the short term primary fermentation it's irrelevant, but it's cool to watch the yeast do it's thing

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:

Docjowles posted:

Just kegged my 50:50 Citra and Amarillo IPA. It's flat so I'll reserve judgement, but it seems like it might be too much of an all citrus bomb and could use some of that pine tar character to balance. If I rebrew this down the road, what might be a good hop to mix in? Google leads me to Chinook or Simcoe (hopefully the crop is bigger next year!).


Yeah, I've been really happy with my 65:35 Citra/Simcoe IPA, where I started from the Zombie Dust clone.

Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:
Alright so I'm about to bottle with some maple syrup instead of corn sugar, but I really don't want to boil it. Would I be fine just adding the maple syrup straight to the bottling bucket?

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Darth Goku Jr
Oct 19, 2004

yes yes i see, i understand
:wal::respek::stat:
Ugh, like all things brewing related, I've totally missed out on like 4+ months of this thread. Is the Secret Santa past registration? Hell, was there even one?

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