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I've been thinking about giving brewing a try this summer and after reading (a part of) this thread the idea of brewing my own beet keeps growing on me. I'm going to order a copy of how to brew and I was looking at a decent starter set. Since I have no clue what to look for I was hoping if some of the EU goons could share their favorite brewing supply stores. The starter sets (below € 100) I've seen on a few different stores have 1 big difference. The cheapest ones come with 1 bucket and the slightly more expensive ones come with 2 buckets (and some other supplies as well). Since the difference is usually just a few bucks, is it safe to assume 2 buckets is better? I don't want to be a cheap rear end and find out the extra bucket makes things so much easier. There are also starter set which have a cylindrical water lock instead of a classic one. Does that make any difference?
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Jun 9, 2016 13:53
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Cannon_Fodder posted:If you're doing this solo, I've had way more fun (and been much more likely to actually get off my rear end and do it) with 1g batches. The cost isn't that big of a deal for me, I'd rather buy a setup I can use for a while than buy some stuff now that I'll have to replace pretty soon again. Wouldn't that be the case if I go for 2-3 gallon stuff? I'm indeed doing this alone, but have enough friends who'd be interested in trying out my brews (probably more than I can brew). Drone posted:Now I really want to know if brewing with beets is possible. Not that it would taste good or anything, but I mean they're basically a ball of starch and sugar. I see my typo got a whole different discussion started. While I typed beet, I really meant beer...  I live in The Netherlands and was looking at the following starter sets: https://www.brouwmarkt.nl/brouwmarkt-producten/complete-startsets-cat/bierbrouwen/startset-bierbrouwen-premium.html Or https://www.brouwmarkt.nl/brouwmarkt-producten/complete-startsets-cat/bierbrouwen/startset-bierbrouwen-premium-plus.html I'm not sure what the differences are besides the waterlock and the more solid looking buckets, and if those warrant the 20 euro price difference. These are just the ones I found with a decent price, if anyone has better suggestions on a starter kit / supplier I'm all ears.
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Jun 9, 2016 20:29
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I started my first ever brew yesterday with a plastic bucket starter set. Enjoyed the process but I'm now worrying I did something wrong as it's been about 20ish hours but I'm yet to see bubbles in the airlock from the yeast. The lid of the bucket is properly closed, it's not leaking air from the sides where it shouldn't and as far as I can tell the rubber from the airlock is sealing the hole properly as well. There are a few things I may/may not have messed up. It took a while (over a year...) between brewday and getting the starter kit. The yeast was a few months over the 'best before' date, but the package was still in tact (airtight sealed I think). Would that be an issue? The 2nd possible issue was the temperature outside. It took about 10 hours before the wort was cooled down to the temperature (20-25 degrees Celcius) at which I was supposed to throw the yeast in. Finally I measured the wort / sugar mix (is there a name for that?) after adding the yeast. I realized I should've measured it before throwing in the yeast so there's only 10-20s between adding the yeast and the measuring. Not sure if that's completely messed up the results or if it's no biggy. So what do you guys think, did I gently caress it up (and if so which of the above?) or should I be a bit more patient. I've been staring at the lock for some today but witnessed no activity whatsoever. The lock itself is filled for about half with water, could that be too much or too little
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Sep 3, 2018 16:37
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eviltastic posted:Welcome to brewing! This experience and anxiety are a standard rite of passage. Everything is probably fine: Thanks for the effortpost, that’s a real warm welcome! I really enjoyed the ‘crafting’ part so even if this brew goes tits up I can see me trying again and keep on trucking with this hobby. It was dry yeast and as you guessed I tossed it straight in. I was in doubt if I should follow the starter package instruction (which I did) or follow the in depth instructions on the yeast package. The latter suggested rehydrating it first (like you said as well). Should’ve gone with the gut feeling but I’ll consider this a lesson learned. As for now, I’ll take the advice and enjoy a factory brew while anticipating my own batch. As a final question (for now), what kind of bottles are most liked? I still need to get those so I have about a week or 2 before I need them. As for the ABV, the hydrometer reading said 1070 / 9% so I guess it’s going to be a rough ride for my yeast buddies, from start to finish. I’ll keep rooting for them though.
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Sep 3, 2018 19:04
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Jhet posted:The higher starting gravity will be a little responsible for the longer lag time, along with the older than normal yeast. There's no great reason for hydrating your yeast when using dry provided you don't just take them out of the fridge and toss them in 40C wort. The yeast manufacturers disagree on that, but on the homebrew scale there won't be much if any difference provided you leave the yeast to warm to ambient temp. 1.070 is a little high for only one packet, but it'll get there if you're patient. The dry yeast was room temperature so at least I did that part right. The yeast I used was BRY-97 and said American West Coast ale yeast and part of a ‘special ipa’ starter kit. Good to hear the alcohol percentage will drop a bit. I love me some ipa but 9% is a bit on the strong side. Absolutely thrilled about my first brew though. As for the bottles I’ll grab some commercial beer bottles and clean them extensively befor usage. We don’t have (m)any screw off bottles over here (The Netherlands) and with a birthday coming up this week I’ll have enough empty bottles by next week. It’s 40ish hours since brew time and still no bubbles yet. Patience is a virtue they say.
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Sep 4, 2018 16:51
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When I got home today I noticed the bucket lid was slowly swelling up and when I touched it I noticed it was under pressure so after almost 2 days the yeast is doing it’s thing. When I just checked it again it’s completely swollen up and when I softly touched the top it burt out a lot of bubbles so I’m confident all is well for now. Yay!
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Sep 4, 2018 22:07
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I slowly pressed on the lid a bit and that made the airlock bubble. Did it a few times so the pressure of the lid would be off. I’ll check to see if it has swollen up again when I get home from work.
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Sep 5, 2018 12:15
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After leaving the lid alone for a week it didn’t blow off and just kept bubbling. It’s been 9 days since brewday and 7 since the yeast started doing it’s thing. I’m not sure if it’s slowing down, I still see quite a bit of airlock activity. Do I wait till all activity stops? That’s when all/most of the sugar has been turned into alcohol by the yeast if I understand this correctly. When that happens I need to do another hydro meter reading, but I’m not quite sure what I’m looking for in that test. How do I know what figure is good and what isn’t?
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Sep 11, 2018 18:49
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My first brew with pretty old and not rehydrated yeast seems to be still fermenting after 15 days. It took 2 days to actually start so I guess I’m at day 13 really. Someone here mentioned that airlock activity is not a great way to monitor the fermentation process. I guess half of my yeast colony was dead so the remainders are having to work longer to get the same result. I’m aware that I should do a gravity check, but when is a good idea to do one? Does it make sense if there’s still airlock activity all the time?
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Sep 17, 2018 20:11
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eviltastic posted:You're still within a normal timeframe for a moderately strong beer to ferment. And if it takes a bit longer, then welp, it took a bit longer, no biggie. As far as the delay, two days is a little long for a lag phase, but bear in mind that a delay in visible activity is normal, particularly for bigger beers. It's called the lag phase because we don't see stuff going on, but the yeast are still doing things. I’ll leave it airlocked for as long as it’s (visibly) fermenting. After I don’t see any airlock activity for 2 days I’ll do a gravity reading and repeat it after another day or so, to make sure the fermenting process is really completed. The reason for asking was thatI didn’t know if fermenting for too long would hurt the brew, but from your explanation I notice it doesn’t matter much. My patience is being properly tested here  and I’ll make sure to taste it when doing the gravity reading, thanks for suggesting that. I’d probably not have thought of doing that by myself.
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Sep 18, 2018 22:20
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After 4 weeks of fermentation I finally bottled my first brew (from a kit). As mentioned here I did taste my brew before bottling which was kinda weird. You could taste alcohol and it already smelled like beer but it missed the distinct taste which I presume is added by the c02 after bottling. The brew ended at 1010 (coming from 1070). Is there any way how to find out what the ABV is? I already picked up my follow up project at the brew store yesterday when I went to buy the bottles. I’m going for an Irish Red with pale malt and munich malt together with East Kent Golding and Styrian Golding hop. Yeast is US-05. It’s a step up from my first project as that one had a prefab bag with wort which I’ll now be doing myself. I’m already excited to start my next batch . The only thing I’m not sure about is the UltraMoss package that was included and needs to be added just before I throw in the 2nd batch of hops.
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Sep 30, 2018 18:34
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How long do you guys wait for carbonizing your beers after bottling? I read somewhere between 10-14 days and it’s been 10 and I can’t wait to taste my first batch. Should I be more patient and wait a few more days to be sure?
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Oct 10, 2018 18:48
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Skellyscribe posted:I'm really impatient and even after a couple years of brewing, I always open a bottle after like 4 days. It's usually not all the way done but I like to taste every step of the process. It was a 15L batch, I’m just gonna put one in the fridge and give it a go then. Might give me a better idea on how long to wait next brew.
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Oct 10, 2018 19:11
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Well this was my first brew and I used a beginners set with a bucket. Definately not in keg territory yet. I did taste it and I think it needs a little bit longer. It’s got some co2 but definately could use a bit more. It was a special ipa starter package and while I’ve tasted plenty of of ‘normal’ ipa’s this one tastes a lot different. Totally not as hoppy and way more sweet as I had expected and it’s actually a lot more like a belgian double or triple. I have to get used to this one a bit since it’s completely different than I expected but I really love the fact that I made this all by myself and it doesn’t taste like crap.
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Oct 10, 2018 21:32
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Skellyscribe posted:Congrats on your first brew! If it's not done carbing maybe there's a little unfermented sugar making it taste sweeter. The hops were dried and vaccuum sealed but pretty old. Guess that might have had a bit of an impact. Morholt posted:I find mine tend to be carbonised after 2 weeks but still green tasting. I'm much happier with them if I wait a month after bottling. But if you have bottles to spare do open one a week until you're happy with the result, that way you get to taste how the beer develops. It’ll be 2 weeks exactly tomorrow. I’ll crack open another one and will just keep doing that each week so I can get a bit of a feel how beers age after bottling. I’ve got 20ish 0.5L bottles so I won’t run out soon. Next brew is planned for next weekend. Gonna make an Irish Red from scratch.
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Oct 13, 2018 22:32
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Yesterday I had my second brew day. It was a lot more work (and fun) than the first time since this time I didn’t start with a premade bag of wort. This time I milled the grain and did the mashing as well. I also had a cooler so I didn’t have to wait for hop/wort mixture too cool down all by itself (so that went a lot quicker than without one, especially on a hot summer day haha). I also made a yeast starter the day before since my first brew had a 4 day lag phase due to yeast that was a bit over it’s best before date and throwing it in the wort directly instead of activating it first. Some things still felt a bit clumsy and I was hoping you guys have some ideas on how to improve my way of working. First thing was getting the temperature right. The recipe required me to mash on 2 different temperatures as well as cook on 2 temperatures. I have a pretty basic (electric powered) brew kettle. Is there an easier way to get the temperature right than sticking a thermometer in it every 10 minutes and keep watching it directly to make sure you don’t mash/boil on a temp that’s too high? The second thing was the lautering. I filtered the wort using a colander/sieve. There were about 4-5 full colanders worth of residual grain that I needed to store somehow so I could use it for sparging after my brew kettle was completely empty. What’s a good way to do this? I now stored it in a bucket until I heated up enough new water to do ths sparging. It felt like a lot of back and forward running between the brew kettle, my bucket for clear wort, the bucket I stored my post mash grain in and the stove to heat up new water. It must have looked like a slapstick movie to an outsider. The last thing was the heating up of the wort for the boiling phase. It seemed to take ages before it was up to boiling temperature (about 40 minutes). There’s no way to speed this up besides cleaning the brew kettle and heating up the first batch of wort directly before starting the lautering process, or would that be a really bad idea since you unevenly heat the wort? After boiling everything went pretty smooth and the airlock has been pretty active. If this batch works out fine, I’ll have a nice amount of home made beer for the holidays.
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Oct 22, 2018 16:47
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Jhet posted:Congrats! Hopefully it turns out well enough for your drinking pleasure. After some googling I (finally) understand what you mean. A mash tun looks like something that’ll definately take away few of the issues I had and might be a nice DIY project. Thanks for taking the time to explain it to me.
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Oct 23, 2018 17:46
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robotsinmyhead posted:It's worth looking into Brew in a Bag as well. That's what I use on a 5gallon scale and it's nice. That looks like a great solution. Does it allow you to spool the left over grain as well or do you still need a sieve for that? Skellyscribe posted:I made mine with braided steel hose jacket instead of a false bottom and it's worked without problems for two years now. Huge brewing level up for me. I saw those before too but didn’t quite understand the use for it then. This also looks nice but still means more work and time cleaning the mash tun before boiling. What made you choose this over a brew in a bag?
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Oct 27, 2018 16:27
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robotsinmyhead posted:Spool the grain? I'm not familiar with that. Sorry, I meant sparging. I’m still trying to learn the terminology and as english isn’t my first language I’m mixing up the native and english names 
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Oct 28, 2018 19:12
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My Irish Red is coming down in gravity from 1051 to 1018. According to the recipe it should’ve been at 1053 and should end at 1010. Brew day was 13 days ago, how do I “know” fermentation is done, just take another gravity reading in a few (3-5?) days? What do you guys write down when brewing and do you review it in later stages or when trying to do a similar brew? And do you have a Brew Book of some kind or are there apps that you find particularly useful?
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Nov 3, 2018 17:30
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Biomute posted:I use brewer's friend (webapp), and it is really good and thorough, but honestly most of it is not that useful to me and I am not so sure I actually believe in the formulas used that much. My partner and I bought a good quality notebook and a fountain pen because we want to try keeping a brew log in the style of the old British breweries. I can post a list of the things we feel are useful to note later when I am back at the house, but I suspect it is pretty specific to you as a brewer. I’ll have a look at Brewer’s friend. A list of what you write down would give me an idea about things I might find useful and would be much appreciated.
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Nov 5, 2018 14:02
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Biomute posted:Sorry it took so long. That looks amazing, thanks for sharing! Gives me a nice idea about what to keep track off. How do you keep track of the exact amount of volume you’re brewing though? I saw your boil was 19,7 liters. Was that ,7 a rough estimation or do you really measure the exact amount of volume? Yesterday I bottled my Irish Red which was my first all grain brew and it was a lot more fun than extract brewing. Already looking forward to the next one although I haven’t decided what yet. I’m torn between stout and saison.
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Nov 19, 2018 08:50
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Brew day today went conpletely wrong. Since it was raining all day I figured I’d brew in the laundry room instead of outside. Since this is only my 3rd brew I still need to figure out something of a routine. For my birthday I recieved a brew kit with a I switched from a really cheapucrappy fermentation bucket to a somewhat more sturdy model. The biggest mistake I made is that I only noticed there weren volume indicators on the bucket while I was already adding water to fill up to the final volume. I stopped immediately but the extract kit was for a 15L brew while both my previews brews were 20 or 25L so I overshot the amount of water I needed to add. Really stupid, and I’m going to filler her up with water when the fermentation is complete and draw volume marks on the outside to prevent this from happening again. I put the bucket on a scale to see how much the weight of the bucket + total volume was and by the looks of it I added 5L more water to it then I was supposed to. As a result the gravity is like 1036 instead of 1050. Will this mess up my beer entirely or is it just going to be lower on ABV than expected as I more or less watered it down? The kit was for a London Porter if that makes any difference. I hope it’ll be at least drinkable. It was great fun to be brewing again but I’m a bit bummed out by messing this up so badly. I also added dry hops after instead of before adding the cold water to it.
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Feb 10, 2019 17:03
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Jhet posted:1.036 is fine for a London Porter. It may turn out just fine. Messing up volumes is never ideal, but won’t completely ruin your brew with those numbers. It’ll just be lower ABV, but should still taste fine. Ok, glad to hear it might still be fine. I got 3 extract kits as birthday gifts and this one I was looking forward to the most so I was already kicking myself for messing it up! As for the dry hops, the recipe mentioned throwing them in there directly, although I did let them sit in a cup of boiled water for 15 minutes; not sure if that’ll take off some of the aroma. For future brews, when would you add them exactly?
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Feb 10, 2019 21:12
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Finally bottled the porter last week, which I thought I botched a month ago by forgetting to measure the amount of water I added and having a starting SG that was way off. The final SG was spot on so there’s some hope I guess. I did leave it fermenting for a month due to unforeseen circumstances. Going in a family trip next weekend, wonder how the inlaws think it tastes. They liked my IPA, strongly disliked my Irish red so this will be the make or break for my rep as an novice brewer 
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Apr 6, 2019 15:36
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Jhet posted:Leaving it for a little longer is a great thing that homebrewers can do without issue for pretty much all styles. Also, how did you think your beer tastes? That's more important than what your in-laws think because you'll be drinking most of it. Definately brewing for myself foremost, but I like to share. The porter brewing kit was a bday gift from them so it’d be nice if they could enjoy the result of it as much as I do. The IPA was my first one and tasted more like a belgian abbey style than an IPA. It was a kit and no idea how it turned out to be totally not hoppish but more dark brown. Either way I really enjoyed even while the belgian abbey style is not something I’d quickly order. The Irish Red was my first allgrain brew and turned out ok but a lot of residue ended up in the bottles. It was at least half an inch in each bottle so when pouring them it looks kinda nasty. I served the majority of them at my birthday so plenty of people drank it but most looked questionably at the amount of residue. For the porter I siphoned the beer from my fermentation vessel to another vessel (cleaned with oxipur first of course) so most of the residue is left in the fermentation vessel. I hope theres still enough yeast inside for carbonation or I’ll have some flat beers...
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Apr 6, 2019 20:26
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In embarassing news, I forgot to bring the porter I wanted to share with my inlaws to the weekend trip. Pouring one tonight to see how it tastes. We have 2 birthdays this month so I’ll be getting plenty of feedback regardless (and hopefully enough empty bottles to start the next brew).
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Apr 15, 2019 16:54
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Jhet posted:^ I'm surprised you managed to wait this long to try it. I usually can only ever wait a week if I've bottled something. I don’t know why I waited longer than a week either. Just opened my first bottle and it is absolutely amazing. The flavour is off the chart and I absolutely love it.
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Apr 17, 2019 21:09
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As a beginning brewer I can’t give you much of advice on the matter. If you go for option 1, look at the Arsegan Easybrew from https://www.braumarkt.com as an alternative. It looks identical but is regularly in sales for 350ish, which saves you another 45 bucks.
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May 6, 2019 07:48
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SaltPig posted:If your still in the market, check out anvil's new system. It can be converted to 240v and had an For euro goons who are looking for one, I just recieved a mail from braumarkt.com that they’re doing a a preorder for the Arsegan Easybrew 30L with a price of 319 euros. Normally it’s 389 and it goes on sale for 359 a few times a year. Not sure what shipping will costs, but it might worth to take a look at.
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May 27, 2019 07:48
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Here's the direct link: clickety click It seems it's a new version because now it also has a gage glass which the old model doesn't have. That's exactly what made me gently caress up my first brew in their old model, I started adding water and didn't notice there weren't any volume indicators on the inside of the kettle. I got the link from their marketing mails, I'm not sure it's accessible otherwise. When pressing the button to access the english site I get an error saying the URL doesn't exist. The product description says that the item is listed for full price but if you add the discount code "EB30PK80" on checkout, you get the 80 euro discount. Delivery however is somewhere throughout August 2019 though. With regards to their malt mill having plastic grinders, that might be one of the cheaper models I think? The 90 euro version has stainless steel rollers and works like a charm when running it with a drill.
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May 27, 2019 11:09
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Drone posted:Did the email say how long the code is good for? Double checked but it doesn’t say so. BioTech posted:I have the old version and it definitely has volume indicators on the inside. They are stamped on the inside of the kettle, both in gallons and liters. Just had a look and that’s exactly what happened. It was my first brew with the kettle so it was a bit stressy figuring out everything. Didn’t even think about the grain basket... quote:Note the volume is 3L off because they count from the tap upwards. ignoring the area below. If you drain using the pump or don't mind tilting the nearly drained kettle you can get most of this out as well. I tilted the kettle but how would you adjust calculations if you’re not doing that? I’m still incredibly new to this hobby so I’ve just been going off prefab kits so far. quote:I meant the 90 Euro RVS one. It is a rebranded Bulldog Malt Mill. That looks like the exact one I have yeah. No time to screw it open but I’ll check next brewday. Pretty sure it’ll be plastic cogs as well. Not sure why you’d cheap out on that part as a manufacturer. Did you get new plastic ones or can you get stainless steel replacements?
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May 27, 2019 14:01
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I. M. Gei posted:How long do home brew ingredients tend to keep for? My dad loved the home brewing kit I got him for Father’s Day last year, but he hasn’t really gotten a chance to use it yet. But he wants to use it sometime this summer, and I need to know if the ingredients that came with it are still good. My first brew also was a gifted kit that took me too long to get started with. It was several months after the best hefore date. As far as I’m aware the only ingredient that is impacted by it is the yeast. For me it took a few days before I got noticable airlock activity but it turned out perfectly fine. You can counter that by creating a starter (which I didn’t know then).
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Jun 5, 2019 05:28
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I recently got another mail from Braumarkt saying that their discount was valid until the first batch of preorders was fulfilled. I think that will happen somewhere in August so you still have a few weeks.
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Jul 10, 2019 05:41
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Drone posted:How fast is their shipping usually? I'm gonna try to time my order so that it arrives on a couple days where I'm home next week. Don't want to miss the package and then have to pick it up at the post office and carry it on foot 2 kilometers back to my apartment. I live relatively nearby so I usually drive by their store when I need something. Ordered something once but I can’t recall how long it took to deliver anymore, sorry.
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Jul 10, 2019 13:13
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Just got another mail from Braumarkt with the electric brewkettle promotion so it’s still valid. Discount code: EB30PK80
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Jul 12, 2019 17:24
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My current batch seems to be pretty slow. It's been fermenting for 3 weeks now and while the first 7-10 days there was a thick layer of krauzen that subsided. The recipe said that starting SG should be 1058 and it should take 7-10 days to complete fermentation. The starting SG I measured was 1054, so that was slightly off. At the moment SG is 1012 but according to the recipe it should drop to 1007-1010. Should I give it another week and do another gravity reading to see if it's just fermenting slower than expected? I'm sure it doesn't help that I don't have a temperature controlled fermentation chamber so it's at "room temperature", which means somwhere between 18-22 degrees (celcius). edit: Yeast straing is Safale K73 LochNessMonster fucked around with this message at 13:06 on Oct 14, 2019 |
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Oct 14, 2019 13:04
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BioTech posted:I'm pretty sure your beer is done, how long has it been at 1012 ? It’s a Belgian Blonde. I’ve only checked the gravity today as there was still visible activity from the airlock until a day or 3-5 ago (and I didn’t have time to bottle earlier). The airlock activity seems to have completely stopped now so I guess it really is done. I hesitated because I don’t want to blow up my bottles by adding sugar for carbonation while there was still sugar left that wasn’t turned into alcohol yet. Thinking back I should’ve just checked my notes on my previous brews since I noticed (just now) that I’ve bottled other beers at 1012 and 1014 before. Not sure why I didn’t think of that earlier 
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Oct 14, 2019 19:31
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funkybottoms posted:the recipe for the kit in question stated that there was no bittering addition, only whirlpool Bottled my Belgian blonde today. Can’t wait to taste it. Next up is a cider!
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Oct 20, 2019 18:24
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Not sure what goes wrong with my extract kit beers but all my attempts turned out more of an Belgian Abbey style beer than the style it said on the kit. I think it was 2 blondes, 1 amber and 1 special IPA, but all of them were really dark and tasted like doubles or triples. Not sure if this is an extract kit thing or if I'm doing something wrong (not unlikely although I do try to follow the instructions to a tee). An extract kit porter did come out absolutely amazing. I'm really not a fan of that style and can't say I looked forward to drinking 4 gallons of it. Luckily my dad is a big fan of abbey beers so I just dumped 3 gallons on him. Would've probably be the first homebrew I'd have flushed otherwise. Moving on to all grain (kit) next. Need to plan my next brew day quickly so I can have a nice refreshing saison when spring comes around.
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Feb 25, 2021 09:00
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