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PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair
So I guess we never found out what the best way to add cucumbers to a beer would be, huh? I was planning on making something similar to the CCB cucumber saison this summer, since that sounds refreshing as poo poo but the last couple pages made me super nervous.

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PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

CapnBry posted:

Wayne from Cigar City is an incredibly nice guy, I've met him a couple of times and he is happy to share the basics of their recipes. The cucumber Saison is made using commercial "cucumber essence", in a low gravity saison with Citra and Sorachi Ace hops. You might get more information if you email him, but he's said he gets a lot of email from homebrewers and it is a little overwhelming. It is also beer week here in Tampa so this would be a bad week if you're trying to get an answer as I am sure he is swamped with all the events.

Speaking of, is anyone going to the Hunahpu party Saturday morning? I wouldn't mind connecting with some other local goon brewers so I could show off my brewery.

Does anyone do ultra small all-grain batches for yeast starters? I was thinking that my 2L starter is only like 75 cents worth of grain and I was trying to wrap my head around what a tiny 1/2 gallon all grain brewery would look like. Not for practicality but how adorable would a 3 kettle electric HERMS be for 1/2 gallon batches?

Hmm, the only meaningful google result for "cucumber essence" or "extract" that isn't some sort of cosmetic product is:

quote:

Press the juice from cucumbers, mix with an equal volume of alcohol and distil. If the distillate is not sufficiently perfumed, more juice may be added and the mixture distilled. It is said that the essence thus prepared will not spoil when mixed with fats in the preparation of cosmetics.

Obviously distilling isn't really an option, maybe just mixing 50/50 with cheap vodka is enough?

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

Funniest experience I've had with sanitation was at my homebrew class. The guy teaching it was talking left and right about sanitation, and then he uses water straight from the the tap to get his 2.5 gallons of cooled wort up to 5 gallons.

That's not risky at all, tap water is exceptionally clean

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

Marshmallow Blue posted:

Take a swab and grow a petri dish sample of the faucet head all your clean water's coming from.

God, I wish I could find it again, but some guy on Reddit (I think) who worked in a lab took samples of all these different types of water and charted bacteria growth for each one and distilled water and water straight from his tap were remarkably similar.

I tried my hardest to find it, but I just can't track it down.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

CapnBry posted:

I got the oxygenation setup from williams brewing which I like better because it has a cane attached to it. I figured with the regular vinyl tubing it might try to stay coiled and not go all the way to the bottom, and the metal cane guarantees that as well as lets me swirl the airstone around.

The StirStarters plate is a great, cheap, out the door solution. They also provide the instructions on how to build one yourself which costs maybe $30 minus any parts you have already like a CPU fan.

I have the same thing, when it comes to equipment that makes my life easier, that tops the list. I loving hate shaking carboys.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

Marshmallow Blue posted:

Just start a trend for PET bottles! Dont most of you folks keg it up anyways? On another note I got my Portuguese double lever corker in the mail this weekend! Can't wait to cork some mead.

I think for most people who keg, kegging isn't a complete replacement for bottling. I personally only have 2 kegs so I'm still bottling fairly often.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

Docjowles posted:



As an aside, I forgot how much the old homebrew thread ruled. It ran from 2008 to 2011 and ended up in the Goldmine.

If you do a quick google search of "arjaarg beer" you'll find many examples of how this newer, arjaag-free thread is superior to the old one.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair
Like any true sperglord, he really did know his stuff

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair
I think any decent software will track your brews. I know a lot of people like hopville (a website) for formulating and tracking. I'm personally quite partial to Beersmith even if the UI isn't very intuitive.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair
Maybe I missed this from when you were talking about this earlier, but why use distillers yeast?

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

hellfaucet posted:

Wow, last night's "brewing prep" was a giant catastrophe. All I needed to do was make a 2L yeast starter, that's it. I had 2 boilovers during the 20 minute boil, and burned my hands when I grabbed for the flask to pull it off the burner. Thankfully I used mitts after that first exchange the flask. I just woke up this morning and apparently I forgot to use Fermcap because my entire kitchen counter is covered in yeast.

Don't make starters while drunk ya'll.

20 minute boil? I boil my starters for literally 5 minutes max

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

hellfaucet posted:

Welp. Looks like my life will get a bit easier. Thanks guys...

Yeah, I'd say 90% of the time I take it off the heat in under less than 2 minutes after it starts boiling. I've been making starters for years and have never, ever had an infection.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

Angry Grimace posted:

The correct term is "meadery," yes. How do I know? Because I played Skyrim.

My condolences

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

As I understand it the main reasons for racking to secondary nowadays are mostly for clarity

Not even clarity is a good reason to rack to a secondary

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

Saint Darwin posted:

So with Irish Moss, gelatin, and a 2 day cold crash, it should be as clear as it's gonna get, right?

I haven't used gelatin before, but in my experience cold crashing alone does enough to clear it up. I don't use wirlfloc tablets or even strain anymore, honestly.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

fullroundaction posted:

homebrewers.txt


Also known as homebrewtalk.com

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

Saint Darwin posted:

On that note, I really suck at cleaning these, and they have caught on fire before (when it was hanging outside a boiling pot). Can I just buy a length of cheesecloth and make disposable bags?

Go to Lowes/Home Depot, buy paint strainer bags. They cost something like $3 for 2, which is still cost prohibitive for one time use, but not a big deal if you burn one or otherwise rip one. As for cleaning, I turn up the water as hot as a I can stand and rub the two sides together, which seems to free up most of the hop gunk.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair
You know, Hopville would be very smart if they created a quick thing that took BeerSmith recipes and imported them into their system, they could get a lot of people on board with something like that.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

Jo3sh posted:

Seems like that would be doable via BeerXML, right? I mean, it would take implementation, but it's not completely insurmountable.

I think BeerSmith 2 has the option to export recipes to BeerXML but I think even just the normal BeerSmith recipe files are in a fairly easy to translate XML format. The Hopville creators would definitely have to write something specifically on their end to import BeerXML files, since I don't see any existing option for that.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

Crazyeyes posted:

It is almost certainly contained somewhere in the thread already, but that is >300 pages of thread.

What is the difference as far as plastic and glass on the fermentation and storage vessals? Plastic jugs and such are cheaper as far as I can tell, but I don't want any wonky flavors going on in there.

Plastic better bottles are cheaper than glass, safer and see through. Plastic buckets are even cheaper, even safer, but not see through. Pick whichever you prefer, just make sure any bucket you get is food grade.

Glass carboys are loving stupid, dangerous and expensive.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair
How much does everyone pay for their 5# tank CO2 refills? The only place in town that used to do refills (as opposed to exchanges) recently switched over to exchanges, so I guess it's basically now down to whoever is cheapest. They charge around $18 at the local welding place.

Since I apparently didn't check for leaks after cleaning out my lines yesterday, I'm back in need of another CO2 refill after only refilling it a little over a week ago :(

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair
I tried giving Brewmasters Warehouse another shot, I put in an order on Sunday night and 4 full work-days later they haven't shipped my order. I'm absolutely done with that place and don't recommend them to anyone.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair
I've been brewing for something like 4 years now and I have never added fruit to any of my beers, but I figured I'd give it a shot with this belma american wheat I made (trying to get rid of belma hops). What is the general consensus on how to go about this? Looks like to me people either freeze it or boil it, but I can't seem to find a definite answer on which is better. I remember reading at one point that freezing breaks down the cell walls which helps in some way, so I'm leaning that direction.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair
Well, I have some pectic enzyme laying around I'm never going to use, so maybe I'll just boil it just to make the thread of infection a little lower. If it does wind up being hazy, who cares, it's a wheat beer anyways.

So do I just boil it for like 10 minutes and dump the whole thing in once it's cooled, or at that point does the actual flesh of the fruit not really have anything left in it?

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

Jo3sh posted:

Those of you who have done hoppy wheat beers, how hoppy did you go? I'm currently looking at 1.057OG and about 51 IBU, or 0.9 BU/GU.

Hop Sun says 36 IBU, and 80-Acre says 20, which hardly seems hoppy at all to me. Do I need my head tested?

I did an american wheat last summer that was 1.047 and 50 IBU's and it turned out most excellent. I actually just bottled half of a new version of it today that was 1.055 and 51 IBU's, but it's all belma and that poo poo is weeeak

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair
I'm watching this latest ChopAndBrew video, a channel I think someone on here turned me on to and this episode they're cooking hop stalks, which looks disgusting:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzQBFPl1sGg

I can't imagine that those taste even remotely good or, at the very least, have a very good texture. When they just start cooking them in the pan they look :barf:

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair
I guess Wyeast 3944 is a slow rear end yeast? After almost 2 weeks it's only brought my witbier down like 35 points from 1.055

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

Cpt.Wacky posted:



My witbier with a 3944 1.5L starter. 1.071 to 1.029 after 4 days, 42 points. I opened the lid last night because bubbling was slowing down and it's a top-cropping yeast so you have to mix the krausen (full of yeast) back in for it finish. There was a nice thick, yeasty layer of krausen about 1.5" thick. That picture is the result this morning.

I guess I didn't know that, I'll have to try giving it a gentle stir. Thanks!

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

global tetrahedron posted:

Just buy a Better Bottle- glass carboys are extremely heavy, and breaking one is terrifying/can lacerate your flesh

Just to emphasize this a little bit more, you see people on reddit pop up very frequently who break their carboys. Occasionally these people hurt themselves fairly badly and once and awhile you see people who actually have to go to the hospital for stitches. I really don't understand why people still buy glass carboys.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

What the heck? It doesn't tell you on the site what exactly it is, which is suspicious, however, it does mention that "OnTap Beer is free of calories, carbs, gluten, and alcohol and it changes the beer's flavor without adding more sugars or calories." which I guess implies it's maybe just hop extract?

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair
Does anyone have experience brewing with black currants, by any chance? I'm trying to find some direction on what type of beer to make with them / how much of them to use.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

Cointelprofessional posted:

I brewed a RR Consecration clone a month ago and just racked it onto 6lbs can of currants from Oregan Fruit.

Jesus, 6 pounds? I didn't think I'd need that much. I like the wit idea, that could be good

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair

Marshmallow Blue posted:

I think there's even a kit for it on more beer or something that comes with real consecration barrel chunks. :spergin:

A quick look online makes it look like RR uses Zante currants, which are actually tiny grapes that aren't even in the same family as black currants. I don't know if they're specifically referencing consecration, though. Were the things that you used small little things or large-ish and slightly bigger than blueberries?

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

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ChickenArise posted:

I'm going to do this eventually: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/diy-beer-line-cleaner-226497/

Right now I have a line that doubles as a keg cleaning line and immersion chiller outlet hose. I'll run hot water from the tap in reverse through the beer line to flush it (the outlet fits over my faucet), and every few times I do this, I'll also give the kegs a good scrub and push the oxyclean and then the starsan through the line with CO2. I need to do all of the above this weekend, actually.

I did this, although I didn't have as much success as everyone else seemed to have. The brass adapter didn't even come close to fitting, so I just jammed the keg post onto the nozzle instead. It's on there crooked as gently caress, which really drives me crazy, but it doesn't leak or anything, so, whatever, I guess.

PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

I think he's ready for a chair
Boy, it's been awhile since I posted in this thread. I've been brewing away, but just sort of let this thread get away from me.

Anyways, I brewed rage-saq's New World quad recipe lately, and I'm wondering if he (or anyone else) has any insight into why he drops the temperature down to 65 after 6 days at 80*. As far as I can tell the recipe I used (from his site) is like 6 years old at this point so it's probably different from what he does now, but can anyone shed light on this?

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PoopShipDestroyer
Jan 13, 2006

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Der Penguingott posted:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f73/pious-westvleteren-12-style-quad-multiple-147815/

Is this the recipe you are referring too?

The thread for that is like 1000 pages long with a good discussion. There is also a new one with a slightly tweaked recipe.

I brewed it a few months ago and screwed up my attenuation by trying to control the yeast too much. You really want to let them do their thing as much as possible.

To save you some reading:

The consensus on the correct fermentation schedule for that beer seemed to be to pitch at ~65 or so ambient, wrap the fermenter in blankets and let it free rise. It will get itself to around 80 after a few days. Then hold it there until its done with the primary. This can take a long time. Some people are done in 8 days, others like a month. Wlp530 can be slow for the last few gravity points sometimes i guess. It can get as high as 84 but you want to stop it from going higher and want to avoid any rapid artificial temp changes or the yeast seem to crap out.

You can then cold crash the primary and rack to a cold secondary for a few months. I think the the drop down to 65 is just to knock the yeast out of suspension before the transfer.

Thanks for the tips, I'm going to do what you suggested and what my initial instinct was and just ride out the rest of the fermentation at the 80*. I realized that his recipe had some sort of presence on the web, but not 1000 page forum post presence, jesus.

Jacobey000 posted:

I made a quad based off his recipe and used 3787 (THE BEAST), then aged it on oak and brett a for a spell. It's >1y old now and it's god drat wonderful. Another batch is bound for fermenter before too long.

e: his recipes are on his website too btw.

Sort of tying into what I said above, this site is actually the only thing I knew about, I didn't realize hundreds of people were following his recipe, I thought it was mostly a SA thing. ha!

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