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FPS_Sage
Oct 25, 2007

This was a triumph

Gun Saliva

Actuarial Fables posted:

Your router is likely not set up to communicate using IPv6. Comcast has 6to4 routers that allow non-IPv6 networks to reach IPv6-enaled servers out on the internet by converting your router's IPv4 address to a special type of IPv6 address. The "what's my IP" websites will report 2002:... as your IPv6 address, but your router and computer won't list this address anywhere.

This 6to4 standard was meant to be used as a transition technology and was depreciated in 2015. Google probably doesn't want to support a 5 year dead technology and they're just saying no to it now.

What model of Linksys router do you have? It's possible there's just something you have to enable to get IPv6 working correctly.

Interesting. Strangely, google started working again today with zero intervention from me.

I've got a Linksys E4200 router. Like I said, it's ~10 years at this point so I should probably look at upgrading anyway. Same thing with the modem, which is old as well (Motorola SB6120). In fact, I think it's not even on the "supported" list from Comcast anymore but it's been working just fine for me, so I haven't needed to upgrade it.

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EconOutlines
Jul 3, 2004



Any suggestions for a WiFi extender or anything of the sort?

My office was recently moved to an area that receives signals from both public and internal WiFi networks. Internal doesn't matter because we're hardwired but external (public) WiFi is dropping out at least 75% of the time and requires a renewal of DHCP lease splash page every 4.5 hours. Its cleared with my supervisor and OI&T, but I'm not sure if there is anything that could extend the signal.

This is mainly for iPads streaming CNN or other news agencies but its not 'essential'.

Any ideas?

Boozie
Feb 2, 2013


My router is in the corner of my house and I just stopped Comcast and got a free (borrowed) router of a brand I've never heard of.

Really don't know how to choose between new router and existing. Basically I care about whatever ought to give me better signal strength on the other side of my house and/or just general reliability.

ZyXEL EMG3425
https://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-EMG342...s/dp/B0793GV5QT

Netgear Nighthawk AC2300
https://www.amazon.com/R7000P-100NA...95633638&sr=8-3

Hughmoris
Apr 21, 2007
Let's go to the abyss!

Can I have a router act as a bridge and a WAP?

I'm staying at an AirBnB for the next two weeks while I try and find an apartment. The wifi signal is shite, and I don't have access to the home's networking equipment.

I have a Netgear R6400 router. I put it in 'bridge' mode and connected it to the home wifi, and then used a cable to connect it to my desktop. My desktop speeds are much better.

I was hoping there would be a way to ALSO have it boost the wifi signal, so I could connect my wireless devices to the R6400 nearby and then it would use wireless to communicate to the home router.

Is this possible? Thanks!

knox
Oct 28, 2004



Within the last year I've noticed I can no longer seed on torrents, it might connect to a 1 peer and then it drops back down to 0. I've had Verizon FIOS since the very beginning it was introduced so like 12+ years, and never had issue before. Upload speed tests really high, tested the port to see if it's forwarded, reset router, used wired connection, tried other computers on network. Nothing I have attemped has seemed to work. I can download anything faster than I ever good, the issue is only with uploading. I have firewall turned off and low security setting on router, I am not sure what I'm missing or what issue could be.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006


knox posted:

Within the last year I've noticed I can no longer seed on torrents, it might connect to a 1 peer and then it drops back down to 0. I've had Verizon FIOS since the very beginning it was introduced so like 12+ years, and never had issue before. Upload speed tests really high, tested the port to see if it's forwarded, reset router, used wired connection, tried other computers on network. Nothing I have attemped has seemed to work. I can download anything faster than I ever good, the issue is only with uploading. I have firewall turned off and low security setting on router, I am not sure what I'm missing or what issue could be.

Deep packet inspection and blocking by Verizon. Add a VPN.

Red_Fred
Oct 21, 2010



Fallen Rib

Actuarial Fables posted:

Does it just not pass any traffic at all? If you have the switch disconnected from the ERX, can devices connected to the switch reach each other?

Make any changes to your network devices recently - updates, enabled features, minor config changes?

If you have two cables connecting the switch to the ERX then a loop is possible, but that should be easy to fix by just only having one cable between the switch and ERX.

It was just the one cable between the switch and router. For a while I thought it was a particular device but then I finally just rebooted my ONT and the problem disappeared! Iíve never had to do that in 3 years but the provider may have pushed a firmware update or something.

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004

"Hot dog, I love Pittsburgh! No more Steve Simmons, he was the wurst!"


Made a similar post in the Hardware Short Questions thread but didnít get any replies and this seems like it may be a more appropriate place.

Tl;dr - upgrading my ISP to Sonic Gigabit Fiber and looking to upgrade my router as well. Overwhelmed by choices, trying to decide what features are must have vs. nice to have

Our house is about 1700 sqft over two stories, and we rarely have more than 5 wireless devices connected at once. Most bandwidth intensive uses are video streaming and video conferencing for work, weíre not gamers.

Our phones are WiFi 6 compatible, so I suppose a WiFi 6 router could be nice, and I figure if Iím gonna drop a couple hundo now, might as well try to future proof a bit.

Iím thinking it might make sense to start with just a single router thatís mesh compatible, and then depending on the signal quality with that can always add satellites if needed. But also seems like itís worth trying to find a tri-band router, again partly for future proofing if we do add satellites it seems like backhauling on the extra 5G band is the way to go? Or is that overkill?

Seems like the Asus RT-AX88U and 92U could be good options, or the Linksys Velop AX? Or the Amplifi Alien, although seems like it would be $$$ to add a satellite to that... any suggestions?

frogbs
May 5, 2004
Well well well

So I just found out that my Arris SB6120 modem that I use with Comcast/Xfinity is no longer Ďofficiallyí supported. It looks like they dropped it off their list about 5 years ago, but itís continued to work just fine for me. Should I upgrade to one of their supported models (something like a SB6190), or does it really not matter until they drop support for the 6120 entirely? Iím on a 70mbps plan, so I donít think upgrading will make anything faster, the only difference I think is that the 6120 is 4x4 and the 6190 is 32x8, although I donít really know what that means in the real world?

Any advice is appreciated!

astral
Apr 26, 2004



frogbs posted:

So I just found out that my Arris SB6120 modem that I use with Comcast/Xfinity is no longer Ďofficiallyí supported. It looks like they dropped it off their list about 5 years ago, but itís continued to work just fine for me. Should I upgrade to one of their supported models (something like a SB6190), or does it really not matter until they drop support for the 6120 entirely? Iím on a 70mbps plan, so I donít think upgrading will make anything faster, the only difference I think is that the 6120 is 4x4 and the 6190 is 32x8, although I donít really know what that means in the real world?

Any advice is appreciated!

Don't get the 6190. If you upgrade, you'd want the 6183 for DOCSIS 3.0 or 8200 for DOCSIS 3.1.

That said, with a 70mbps plan you should be fine keeping what you have. Worry about upgrading it when you upgrade your connection.

MREBoy
Mar 14, 2005

MREs - They're whats for breakfast, lunch AND dinner !

I have a SB 6183 myself, works fine with my Comcast 245/12 connection. One exceedingly tiny little issue I have with it though. Apparently a while back a bug was discovered in the modem firmware or internal web server or something that allowed people out on the internet to reboot the modem. There was an actual legit reboot button page that you could use when accessing the modem via web browser locally and I guess they didn't secure it enough. So the fix for this was to remove the remote reboot function. If anything weird happens that requires resetting the modem I have to actually go to it & yank the power cord. Incredibly tiny inconvenience for me but for anyone that might have one buried in a network closet across the house & down a floor or something its a legit concern probably.

Guitarchitect
Nov 8, 2003



Oh man. I bought a Unifi Dream Machine (UDM) and it has been nothing but trouble! Constantly drops the ports on the back (wifi works fine but the internet goes down and any wired devices get dropped). Multiple times per day when it's not working well, although I've had multi-day stretches without problems. But now it can't seem to go more than two days without making GBS threads itself.

Is there a way to rebuild its function but with a router and an AP (and probably a couple small switches)? What drew me to it was the fact that most "mesh" routers are pretty limited both in ports and function (Nest Wifi is comically bad if you need to assign IPs or do any kind of tweaking), and the UDM has a really comprehensive security layer in addition to all the stuff you can do with the UnifiOS. But I want to throw the thing out the loving window at this point. One of the things that drew me to it was the throughput with the security layer (deep packet inspection limits throughput to 850mbps, my internet is 150mbps) - the Unifi Security Gateway would basically cut my internet speed in half with DPI.

Is there something else that could get the same throughput and do the same thing? FWIW I have an always-on raspberry pi which is a Homeseer controller, so I could add something to that if I had to... but i'm guessing the throughput would take a similar hit on a raspberry pi?

I also wouldn't mind a hardware recommendation - at this point I'd almost rather just wire as many devices as I can so that just our laptops/phones/chromecasts are on wifi. My current needs:
- basement: wire in a HTPC and a Roku. router/modem will live here (they are currently in a cupboard in the living room)
- main floor: wire in a roku and a soundbar and the Homeseer controller in location A (so probably 5-port a switch, PoE ideal), put an AP in location B. chromecasts/laptops/phones would connect to it wirelessly. ideally it could hit my garage around 40' from the house
- second floor: wire in my office PC (plex server/work machine), run PoE drops to the kids' rooms for future cameras, maybe add an extra AP. ideally the main floor AP covers the upstairs too, though, for phones + laptops.

I'm entirely new to PoE but i totally get why it's awesome and it's definitely the route I would like to go if i end up putting a bunch of switches all over the place! so any kind of recommendation for gear for that would be fantastic. Luckily I think i can just fish one location to get things to both Location A and the second floor (attic) where I could then drop down to the office and kids' rooms.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017


Guitarchitect posted:

Oh man. I bought a Unifi Dream Machine (UDM) and it has been nothing but trouble! Constantly drops the ports on the back (wifi works fine but the internet goes down and any wired devices get dropped). Multiple times per day when it's not working well, although I've had multi-day stretches without problems. But now it can't seem to go more than two days without making GBS threads itself.

Is there a way to rebuild its function but with a router and an AP (and probably a couple small switches)? What drew me to it was the fact that most "mesh" routers are pretty limited both in ports and function (Nest Wifi is comically bad if you need to assign IPs or do any kind of tweaking), and the UDM has a really comprehensive security layer in addition to all the stuff you can do with the UnifiOS. But I want to throw the thing out the loving window at this point. One of the things that drew me to it was the throughput with the security layer (deep packet inspection limits throughput to 850mbps, my internet is 150mbps) - the Unifi Security Gateway would basically cut my internet speed in half with DPI.

Is there something else that could get the same throughput and do the same thing? FWIW I have an always-on raspberry pi which is a Homeseer controller, so I could add something to that if I had to... but i'm guessing the throughput would take a similar hit on a raspberry pi?

I also wouldn't mind a hardware recommendation - at this point I'd almost rather just wire as many devices as I can so that just our laptops/phones/chromecasts are on wifi. My current needs:
- basement: wire in a HTPC and a Roku. router/modem will live here (they are currently in a cupboard in the living room)
- main floor: wire in a roku and a soundbar and the Homeseer controller in location A (so probably 5-port a switch, PoE ideal), put an AP in location B. chromecasts/laptops/phones would connect to it wirelessly. ideally it could hit my garage around 40' from the house
- second floor: wire in my office PC (plex server/work machine), run PoE drops to the kids' rooms for future cameras, maybe add an extra AP. ideally the main floor AP covers the upstairs too, though, for phones + laptops.

I'm entirely new to PoE but i totally get why it's awesome and it's definitely the route I would like to go if i end up putting a bunch of switches all over the place! so any kind of recommendation for gear for that would be fantastic. Luckily I think i can just fish one location to get things to both Location A and the second floor (attic) where I could then drop down to the office and kids' rooms.

I'll start with the usual "did you try talking with unifi support?", I know they are shite but the integrated switch crapping out like you said is not normal, also did you try using a switch(like a us8-60w or a usw-8lite) in place of the one integrated in the router? I'm not a big fan of using any router switch ports.

Guitarchitect
Nov 8, 2003



SlowBloke posted:

I'll start with the usual "did you try talking with unifi support?", I know they are shite but the integrated switch crapping out like you said is not normal, also did you try using a switch(like a us8-60w or a usw-8lite) in place of the one integrated in the router? I'm not a big fan of using any router switch ports.

yep, have a thread going and a separate ticket going.

I started with the thread, and there was no attempt to help/diagnose, they just said to switch to Beta firmware. After a lot of frustration there i tried live chat, and they said since I'm on Beta firmware they can't support me. I emailed support and they said it's fine that I'm on beta firmware and they asked for some information which I provided and now I'm waiting for a response. So all three support channels have a different opinion/approach, it seems.

unfortunately I don't have a separate switch so that's not something I can try... besides, to get the internet onto the wifi network I have to go through the router anyway, and when the internet port goes down so do the rest of the ports. I suspect it would be fine if I had a switch come out of the modem and THAT fed an AP, hence my rambling question. Every time the switches go down my wifi network is still fine, so I have to reset the thing to get the ports back online.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017


Guitarchitect posted:

yep, have a thread going and a separate ticket going.

I started with the thread, and there was no attempt to help/diagnose, they just said to switch to Beta firmware. After a lot of frustration there i tried live chat, and they said since I'm on Beta firmware they can't support me. I emailed support and they said it's fine that I'm on beta firmware and they asked for some information which I provided and now I'm waiting for a response. So all three support channels have a different opinion/approach, it seems.

unfortunately I don't have a separate switch so that's not something I can try... besides, to get the internet onto the wifi network I have to go through the router anyway, and when the internet port goes down so do the rest of the ports. I suspect it would be fine if I had a switch come out of the modem and THAT fed an AP, hence my rambling question. Every time the switches go down my wifi network is still fine, so I have to reset the thing to get the ports back online.

UDM has a realtek switch inbetween the four lan ports and the processor, that's why the wifi still works, i would try to remove one switch port wire at a time when it "craps" out to try to isolate if it's a specific device or the whole switchchip is faulty.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009



Return it for a refund, that's just poo poo.

Boozie
Feb 2, 2013


Does Ethernet via power line require the same circuit? Maybe im misunderstanding what a circuit is but my assumption is basically each switch at my breaker is it's own circuit. Feels pretty worthless if so why wouldn't I just use my Wi-Fi at that distance.

Guitarchitect
Nov 8, 2003



SlowBloke posted:

UDM has a realtek switch inbetween the four lan ports and the processor, that's why the wifi still works, i would try to remove one switch port wire at a time when it "craps" out to try to isolate if it's a specific device or the whole switchchip is faulty.

would that have to be done inside the unit? it's very much not able to be opened up
otherwise i only have the modem plugged into it, and that's it (in the WAN port). i previously had things plugged into the LAN ports but removed all of that just in case something was causing a problem.

from the beginning i thought it might be a heat buildup issue but the temp sensors don't report anything and ubiquiti has never even broached it as a possibility. but some people reported theirs working fine for months, then having this issue, then fixing it, and then it dies.

EVIL Gibson
Mar 23, 2001

Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!


Switchblade Switcharoo

mobby_6kl posted:

I just set up Pi-hole on my raspberry print server and wanted to configure the router, which is ISP-branded but seems to be from Ubee interactive according to the mac address. I went to change the DNS server in the router and



What. It's clearly a valid address (even shows up in connected clients) but just won't accept it as either the primary or alternative DNS. Any ideas why it might not like it? I can't find anything online because it's a weird oem model.

I don't know if you got this fixed but that is client side validation through JavaScript and you can probably deactivate that popup through your browser.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



Boozie posted:

Does Ethernet via power line require the same circuit? Maybe im misunderstanding what a circuit is but my assumption is basically each switch at my breaker is it's own circuit. Feels pretty worthless if so why wouldn't I just use my Wi-Fi at that distance.

Not necessarily, but some houses seem to have more noise if the signal has to go farther and can make them not work or work more poorly. The circuit breakers aren't going to filter a signal unless they're popped in which case you've got bigger problems. Due to it being great for some and not great for others the thread usually recommends getting them from Amazon or somewhere else with a good return policy just in case.

Cocaine Bear
Nov 4, 2011




Hello thread. I just moved and my modem and router need to be in the basement and the coverage upstairs is poor. Should I get an access point or a new router? Do extenders work or are they a waste of money?

I've got an isp provided modem/router but I upgraded to a TP-Link AC1200 Dual Band Wireless Wi-Fi Route. It's a small house and it's really only spotty in like one room and the kitchen.

Thanks in advance!

E: archer C50 V3

Cocaine Bear fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jul 26, 2020

Buff Hardback
Jun 11, 2019


Guitarchitect posted:

would that have to be done inside the unit? it's very much not able to be opened up
otherwise i only have the modem plugged into it, and that's it (in the WAN port). i previously had things plugged into the LAN ports but removed all of that just in case something was causing a problem.

from the beginning i thought it might be a heat buildup issue but the temp sensors don't report anything and ubiquiti has never even broached it as a possibility. but some people reported theirs working fine for months, then having this issue, then fixing it, and then it dies.

They're saying leave one LAN device connected, when it dies move it to the next port and so on and on to see if it's just one port or all ports.

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017


Buff Hardback posted:

They're saying leave one LAN device connected, when it dies move it to the next port and so on and on to see if it's just one port or all ports.

^ This (also do it with different devices too to see if it's a switch or device issue)

I apologize if i used cryptic language. If you are in the return period, I would still send it over, there is no documented issue with the udm switch going haywire in any recent firmware.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
"It has gunfights and shit!"


Lipstick Apathy

Zero VGS posted:

Ah thanks, I did some digging and there's also a Zyzel if I can't afford Cisco prices, I've used that brand before and it's fine:

https://www.amazon.com/24-Port-Giga...ZPCQ?th=1&psc=1

Just an FYI, this item isn't fanless. When you google the website listing they say this series is fanless, but this one isn't if you deep dive into the specs. Back to Amazon you go!

knox
Oct 28, 2004



H110Hawk posted:

Deep packet inspection and blocking by Verizon. Add a VPN.

Yeah that was my next attempt to fix issue, thanks for reply; any suggestions on specific VPN or just check this forum?

Guitarchitect
Nov 8, 2003



Buff Hardback posted:

They're saying leave one LAN device connected, when it dies move it to the next port and so on and on to see if it's just one port or all ports.

ah - yes i already went through that with support. all of the ports stop working. a simple reboot brings all of them back. unless it needs multiple reboots. hopefully from this they will, uh, document it as a real thing that happens on all of their firmware. 1.5.6, 1.7.0, 1.7.1, 1.7.2, 1.8.0rc7...

they're refunding me and giving me a discount on a new purchase, so that's nice. I've heard a lot of good things about their other more standalone devices, and going through all of that has me thinking that based on some future growth and convenience (PoE hookups etc) it's probably time to graduate to a PoE switch, and I wouldn't mind getting some extra range into the backyard+workshop... so I will probably take a look at their AP offerings. I'll make a new post for that as I do have a couple of questions that I'm hoping someone here can help with

Guitarchitect
Nov 8, 2003



Putting the UDM experience behind me, here's what i'm thinking of doing to get better wired coverage in my house. I've attached a diagram of what I'm thinking



My modem is a SmartRG SR808ac - while technically it has its own wifi, its not great for coverage in the house - but if I switch off the radios, can I just use it as my router rather than sticking the edgerouter in there? or, if I want to have the security gateway there eventually, do I have to put it between the modem and whatever I use as a router? I'm fairly new to the separate security gateway as an idea, and conceptually it makes sense that the firewall is "before" the router and not after it... but I figure it doesn't hurt to ask.

Buff Hardback
Jun 11, 2019


Guitarchitect posted:

Putting the UDM experience behind me, here's what i'm thinking of doing to get better wired coverage in my house. I've attached a diagram of what I'm thinking



My modem is a SmartRG SR808ac - while technically it has its own wifi, its not great for coverage in the house - but if I switch off the radios, can I just use it as my router rather than sticking the edgerouter in there? or, if I want to have the security gateway there eventually, do I have to put it between the modem and whatever I use as a router? I'm fairly new to the separate security gateway as an idea, and conceptually it makes sense that the firewall is "before" the router and not after it... but I figure it doesn't hurt to ask.

The USG/UDM/UDM-PRO is a router, so it would go modem-U**-switches-drops or modem-ERX-switches-drops.

From a performance standpoint though, if I had room for rack stuff, I'd probably no longer recommend the USG and instead go with the UDM-PRO, it's not quite as performant as the ERX, but you do get the single pane of glass functionality that you don't get by mixing ERX/USW/UAPs.

Guitarchitect
Nov 8, 2003



Buff Hardback posted:

The USG/UDM/UDM-PRO is a router, so it would go modem-U**-switches-drops or modem-ERX-switches-drops.

From a performance standpoint though, if I had room for rack stuff, I'd probably no longer recommend the USG and instead go with the UDM-PRO, it's not quite as performant as the ERX, but you do get the single pane of glass functionality that you don't get by mixing ERX/USW/UAPs.

I wouldn't touch the UDM-Pro with a ten foot pole - I don't really have room for rack stuff anyway but after my experience with the UDM... no way.
Only problem with the USG is that for good security the throughput gets limit to 85mbps - so that's a no-go for me. I'm not that fussed about the single pane of glass, even though it would be nice (it's admittedly pretty good on the UDM but it's also incredibly confusing to figure out where you need to go for things, because the same options are in multiple places).

is there a good breakdown of exactly what one can do with EdgeOS? I guess my biggest worry is the amount of CLI that it could involve, but maybe I won't need it. At the end of the day I really just need to assign static IPs and forward some ports... but my fear is that to set up proper firewalls I'd basically have to make a hobby out of it, and right now the budget won't really allow for the netgate device.

Buff Hardback
Jun 11, 2019


Guitarchitect posted:

I wouldn't touch the UDM-Pro with a ten foot pole - I don't really have room for rack stuff anyway but after my experience with the UDM... no way.
Only problem with the USG is that for good security the throughput gets limit to 85mbps - so that's a no-go for me. I'm not that fussed about the single pane of glass, even though it would be nice (it's admittedly pretty good on the UDM but it's also incredibly confusing to figure out where you need to go for things, because the same options are in multiple places).

is there a good breakdown of exactly what one can do with EdgeOS? I guess my biggest worry is the amount of CLI that it could involve, but maybe I won't need it. At the end of the day I really just need to assign static IPs and forward some ports... but my fear is that to set up proper firewalls I'd basically have to make a hobby out of it, and right now the budget won't really allow for the netgate device.

Honestly, for home use, IDS/IPS isn't really necessary, and AFAIK the UDM and the PRO are two different physical hardware implementations

Guitarchitect
Nov 8, 2003



Buff Hardback posted:

Honestly, for home use, IDS/IPS isn't really necessary, and AFAIK the UDM and the PRO are two different physical hardware implementations

yep they definitely are. I spent a month fighting with the UDM and in the course of treating the UI community forums as a hobby it sounds like the UDM-Pro is even worse, and prone to even more hardware issues. Their attempt at support is "change to firmware X" where X is some random beta firmware, i've continually changed mine but still have no idea what the issue could be (nor do they, other than various support channels vaguely acknowledging that there's a legitimate port lockup problem). at this point there are a lot of pissed off people who feel like buying a UDM device is tantamount to paying to beta test their hardware.

stevewm
May 10, 2005


Guitarchitect posted:

buying a UDM device is tantamount to paying to beta test their hardware.

This is true of ALL Ubiquiti hardware. Their marketing department has always been FAR ahead of R&D. This is something they have repeated with just about every single new product they have ever introduced.

Never, ever, buy a newly released Ubiquiti product line. You will be the Alpha/Beta tester.

Guitarchitect
Nov 8, 2003



stevewm posted:

This is true of ALL Ubiquiti hardware. Their marketing department has always been FAR ahead of R&D. This is something they have repeated with just about every single new product they have ever introduced.

Never, ever, buy a newly released Ubiquiti product line. You will be the Alpha/Beta tester.

I've learned that now, but it's not something that's very explicit when you're just starting out! Also, the UDM is ~ 9 months old so, not BRAND new... but new enough apparently

it does SEEM like their switches and APs are fairly reliable though, right?

stevewm
May 10, 2005


Guitarchitect posted:

I've learned that now, but it's not something that's very explicit when you're just starting out! Also, the UDM is ~ 9 months old so, not BRAND new... but new enough apparently

it does SEEM like their switches and APs are fairly reliable though, right?

Yeah, those have had plenty of time to mature. Also their wireless/WISP hardware is great.

my kinda ape
Sep 15, 2008

Everything's gonna be A-OK


Hair Elf

I'm rolling my own pseudo-WISP for me and two other people. One of them (my cousin) doesn't have line of sight to the primary antenna from his house but he does have line of sight from a building that's 75-100 yards from his house. Trenching a line is too much hassle so what's the cheapest and most reliable way to beam a gigabit connection between two buildings that are ~100 yards away from each other? I'm using Ubiquiti LTUs for the main long range connections.

stevewm
May 10, 2005


So you would have a LTU on this outbuilding connecting back to your main LTU base station? And then another pair of devices to beam it from that point to his house?

If this is the case a pair of Nanostation ACs would do the job. They are perfect for set-and-forget PtP connections.

my kinda ape
Sep 15, 2008

Everything's gonna be A-OK


Hair Elf

stevewm posted:

So you would have a LTU on this outbuilding connecting back to your main LTU base station? And then another pair of devices to beam it from that point to his house?

If this is the case a pair of Nanostation ACs would do the job. They are perfect for set-and-forget PtP connections.

Correct.

I actually have a pair of Nanostations sitting around although I was hoping for something a little faster since they max out at 450Mbps. I mean that's still fantastically better than his current 9Mbps connection but if we have gigabit available might as well reach its full potential right?

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert


Honestly it's not worth the extra cost really. If you already have the nanostations just use them. I can count on 1 hand the number of services capable of saturating a 1 gig link. In fact I downgraded to a 500mbit link, and the only time I ever notice a difference is downloading an Xbox game.

Thanks Ants
May 21, 2004

Bless You Ants, Blants



Fun Shoe

The Mikrotik Wireless Wire nRAY (https://mikrotik.com/product/wireless_wire_nray) seems like it would do you 1Gbps point-to-point. Configured out the box and paired to each other.

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fletcher
Jun 27, 2003

ken park is my favorite movie

Cybernetic Crumb

skipdogg posted:

Honestly it's not worth the extra cost really. If you already have the nanostations just use them. I can count on 1 hand the number of services capable of saturating a 1 gig link. In fact I downgraded to a 500mbit link, and the only time I ever notice a difference is downloading an Xbox game.

When you are waiting to queue up with the bros in Warzone and there's a 100GB update, that's when I'm glad I have gigabit

Steam, Battle.net, Origin, etc usually do a decent job of saturating my connection

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