|
Boner Wad posted:If I have a nanoHD and two AC Pros, is it worth upgrading to the Wifi 6 Pro or LR now? I have mostly new iPads, iPhones, and MacBook Pros that are wifi 6 compatible. Do you have issues currently? Do you do huge transfers and need more bandwidth? If not, the answer is most likely no. The real benefit of wifi6 is in density situations.
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2022 18:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 16:44 |
|
|
From what I can tell, you wouldn't really get much of a speed increase on any of your Apple devices even if you went to a UniFi U6-LR or new Nano because the iPhone and M1 MBPs only have 2 WiFi antennas, meaning that they're only 2x2 MIMO, which puts you at a theoretical maximum throughput of 1,200 Mbps under 802.11ax. Apple doesn't really toot this around much, but their older Intel MBPs usually had 3x3 MIMO, which under 802.11ac gives you a theoretical maximum throughput of 1,300 Mbps, which is actually a hair faster than 2x2 MIMO 802.11ax. But, as has been mentioned, you can have more devices with less cross chatter / noise under 802.11ax. Edit: Actually, it looks like Apple decided to cheap out on MIMO antennas starting with 13-inch Pros only in 2019 and their M1s. ALL of their post-2019 laptops, including the newest: M1 13-inch Pro, the 14-inch and 16-inch M1 Pros only have 2x2 MIMO. Binary Badger fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Jan 16, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2022 19:13
|
|
|
Looking for a modem recommendation and wifi router for a 2500 sq foot house and 4 computers xbox Playstation and 4 tsblets will be running on it and not looking to flash anything on it, just out of rhe box config. Latest recommendations?
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2022 19:17
|
|
|
Boner Wad posted:If I have a nanoHD and two AC Pros, is it worth upgrading to the Wifi 6 Pro or LR now? I have mostly new iPads, iPhones, and MacBook Pros that are wifi 6 compatible.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2022 19:26
|
|
|
Recently I feel as if the Qualcomm part (U6-Pro) has gotten better and smoother FW updates than its MTK cousins. I was happy with my nanoHDs (still have one I need to get rid of actually) but boredom during COVID meant going for the shiny new U6 APs. U6–Lite sucked though, maybe it was just the EA one, but IMO your choice based on what’s in stock should be Pro, LR, nanoHD/flexHD… then the U6 Lite.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2022 20:15
|
|
|
smax posted:From my experience, the U6-LRs doubled my throughput over the UAP-AC-LRs I had before, even on AC devices. This is what I'm a little confused about. At some point I'll need to reevaluate the AP situation in our house since we just moved. Currently, I have a UAP AC LR and an AC-Lite. We live in an old house with old walls, and a portion of our house is actually behind an old exterior wall because of an addition that was built. Our wifi is fairly reliable, but 5Ghz coverage is pretty limited to the areas around the APs. Things drop to 2.4 pretty quickly. We have 1 Gig fiber coming in. Most of our devices are Apple-made, with an additional smattering of IOT stuff. Would a stronger antennae on the transmission side (with one of the new Wifi 6, or Wifi 6e APs) help get through the walls/provide for faster speeds if the receiving devices are only 2x2?
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2022 15:35
|
|
|
The lower frequency of the 2.4 GHz band allows it to go through solid objects better than 5 GHz. If the walls in your current situation are stopping 5 GHz signals, WiFi 6 running on those crablike routers or a maser cannon really isn't the answer. You might need to either run Ethernet between rooms hooked up to APs, or make use of powerline networking, the latter seems less likely to work if your place is older, since it'll be less likely the wiring is up to code / is suitable for powerline networking.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2022 16:37
|
|
|
fyallm posted:Looking for a modem recommendation and wifi router for a 2500 sq foot house and 4 computers xbox Playstation and 4 tsblets will be running on it and not looking to flash anything on it, just out of rhe box config. Latest recommendations? No help?
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2022 08:16
|
|
|
Do you want WiFi 5 or 6?
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2022 18:03
|
|
|
fyallm posted:No help?
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2022 18:10
|
|
|
Boner Wad posted:I need about 8 POE+ ports + 1 uplink for a Raspberry Pi cluster. I generally like to use Unifi stuff but there is only a "Switch 8 PoE (150w)" that is fairly old and there isn't any available. There is a 16 port and 8 port "lite" switch but they have half the ports as POE. Any other suggestions? Should I just get a non-unifi switch? Any recommendations? I'm sure you know this but the POE+ HAT for Raspberry Pis is a rather noisy solution. If you wanna run them in a cluster you should probably not stack them to improve thermals. The fan can also be controlled by a few lines in /boot/config.txt. fyallm posted:No help? Marinmo fucked around with this message at 09:35 on Jan 19, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 09:32
|
|
|
I'm hoping ubnt's last escapades forced them to re-evaluate how they work internally because cloud management is within my risk appetite assuming I can do everything I can to protect my specific account (MFA etc) . I would certainly not have the same appetite just yet if I were deploying these in a commercial setting. The central management thing is actually really appealing to me, if you plan ahead and get a stack that integrates well together. Before (I mean, or currently, since I haven't transitioned yet) when I had a ubnt edgerouter and unifi APs I was hoping that there would be some cool synergy being from the same vendor but nope. I still needed to run that lovely controller java app somewhere or the APs were unmanageable, no integration with the edgerouter, separate panes of glass for managing everything, etc. I just bought a UDM Pro and a few new APs and it looks to provide the single point of management (or failure, I guess lol) that I'm looking for so I guess it really depends on your viewpoint or specific preferences. One of these days I'll get around to installing that UDM and new APs too.. Just need a day to decompress from work stress which seemingly never ends  The biggest pro I can think of for me is that if I find I have lovely coverage somewhere it's fairly easy to just add a new AP and have it seamlessly merge into the system. I mean I'm certain that's the case with a lot of other systems, but this ecosystem seems to have a good combination of good features, decent management (though, just loving finish the new interface already, Ubnt, so I can stop switching between new/classic) and one-click AP adoption that I'm looking for. Definitely at a price $$ though. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Jan 19, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 14:27
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:I'm hoping ubnt's last escapades forced them to re-evaluate how they work internally What was the final word on this? Initially it was reported that all sorts of stuff was compromised internally like keys/tokens and that UBNT didn’t have logging to find out what happened or who, but I thought it turned out to be a blackmail ploy by an employee and that the worst-sounding things were leaked to the press by the blackmailer to tank UBNT’s stock price. The logging retention was even turned off by that guy. I thought most of the worst user-facing security stuff was straight-up fabricated to damage the company. Is that right? Edit: though re-reading you post you might just be referencing the fact that an internal attacker could cause so much trouble (but I still didn’t think he actually did nearly as much as was initially reported).
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 15:48
|
|
|
The coax cable for my house all terminates in my garage in a bundle, like so: What search term do I need for a box to tidy this up? "Junction box" and "distribution box" both seem to give me splitters, cable connectors, and smaller electrical boxes. I also only have one of them connected to go to my cable modem, but would like to leave it so someone could pop in a splitter in the future.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 17:06
|
|
|
I would go to Monoprice and search “keystone” until you see something you like. Keystone jacks are like lego that pop into uniform square slots. You can get everything wall plates to 19” rack panels with keystone holes. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9321
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 17:12
|
|
|
Deeters posted:The coax cable for my house all terminates in my garage in a bundle, like so: I had some wires at my house that the builder just left coming out of the side of the brick wall, and I ended up buying one of these to make it look a little neater. I had 2 coax, 2 cat6, and a power cable outside, and just rolled up the unused cables and shoved them in here. https://www.amazon.com/CableGuard-C...aps%2C94&sr=8-2
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 17:19
|
|
|
You could go with a patch field, though if that's outside or with that quality of cabling I probably wouldn't install it into low voltage brackets with face plates personally as it would look a little DIY though serviceable. Since you don't have any thing to mount here, like a tap, amp, splitter, diseqc switch etc, then mounting boards/panels aren't that big of a concern right now IMO. I'd make sure to label the wires if not already done, then install them in a NEMA box to protect the cabling and clean it up. Something like https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industri...ps%2C176&sr=8-1 which, to me, is pretty similar to what the cable company might use to wedge all their work into themselves. Just size appropriately in case you do anticipate doing anything more than having tidy wires and maybe a small splitter in the near future. e: ^ the box linked above is more refined and certainly neater if you want to work with the wiring in the future, and it has a gasket
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 18:05
|
|
|
Thanks guys, those are all good jumping off points. That bundle is all inside my garage, so the box would mainly be for looks and to keep me from snagging something on the wires.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 18:45
|
|
|
Hey what do folks use for testing your home LAN speeds? Also is there a good free program for generating network diagrams? I want to get some stats on my current network and setup and draw up a plan for what I think I want to do to share here / with others for feedback.
|
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 12:55
|
|
|
That Works posted:Hey what do folks use for testing your home LAN speeds? Upload/download a big file via FTP.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 13:12
|
|
|
If you're in Europe you might wanna use Tele2s Speedtest service since they offer 10Gbps anycast servers well-distributed in Europe (although if you're in the US and testing up to +1Gbps, the bandwidth delay product from the US shouldn't be an issue). Also, while it's a popular option for reasons I'm not entirely sure about, you may want to avoid using iperf3 - since is designed intentionally to be single-threaded because this design doesn't run into some of the issues that the Linux netstack has with multi-threading. There's also a bunch of minor differences that you're probably unlikely to run into, if you just want to see some numbers. BlankSystemDaemon fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Jan 22, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 14:23
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:Upload/download a big file via FTP. Thanks. My current network seems not great and I am not sure why. Mostly I just wanted to get a baseline for everything before starting to play around with some newer network hardware soon but then noticed all this. Wired transferring from my NAS to my PC maxes out at 110-112Mb/s. Wireless it maxes out at 34Mb/s. -These are recorded when transferring a 10gb file from the NAS to the desktop PC a few times. The wired connections are all new and it's all all cat6 from router to NAS and from router to switch to the wall and the patch cables etc between everything is all new cat6 stuff. Have verified that no cat5e patch cables are still in use. I've also connected the desktop PC to a 2nd line I ran and it still was maxed at 100Mb/s. I also bypassed the switch entirely and connected just from the patch panel to the router. I changed the cables I used for connecting from the patch panel to the router and that connects the PC to the wall jack (on 2 separate wall jacks). checking eth0 on the NAS shows 1000Mbps as well. I am running Unraid as the NAS os. My router is a Linksys MR8300 (AC2200) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L9282JK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title Switch is a TPLink SG108 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A121WN6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title NAS mobo is an Intel DH67BL https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/50098/intel-desktop-board-dh67bl.html PC has a 1gb card, LAN shows 1gb connection, wifi shows as 802.11 a/c/n connected at 433.3 Mbps. What do I check next? Bit stumped for the moment and can't find where I'm limited. BlankSystemDaemon posted:If you're in Europe you might wanna use Tele2s Speedtest service since they offer 10Gbps anycast servers well-distributed in Europe (although if you're in the US and testing up to +1Gbps, the bandwidth delay product from the US shouldn't be an issue). e; Thanks for this but it is for now mostly beyond my current comprehension.  I am also in the US, Verizon FIOS ISP. ee: Wait I think I am just really stupid. Win10 connection display is in MBps and all the other info is given in Mbps. Is 110-112 MBps around ~ 1000 Mbps yeah? If so god I am stupid. That Works fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Jan 22, 2022 |
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 14:28
|
|
|
That Works posted:Win10 connection display is in MBps and all the other info is given in Mbps. Is 110-112 MBps around ~ 1000 Mbps yeah? If so god I am stupid. Also most spinning hard drives (assuming no RAID or such) tops out around 150mb/s, give or take a few 10mb/s each way so your speeds are about as good as it gets.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 16:30
|
|
Marinmo posted:Fortunately you were able to answer your own question before someone else pointed it out. Whew, ok so I am just that dumb  Well at least now the baseline is working as I expected.
|
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 16:46
|
|
|
That Works posted:Whew, ok so I am just that dumb Nice username/post(s) combo.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 16:51
|
|
|
That Works posted:Hey what do folks use for testing your home LAN speeds? iperf— there are even a few iOS apps implementing it. The EdgeRouter GUI lets you launch it, otherwise pick a fast machine on your LAN and run it as the server.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 18:01
|
|
|
That Works posted:Win10 connection display is in MBps and all the other info is given in Mbps. Is 110-112 MBps around ~ 1000 Mbps yeah? If so god I am stupid. 1000 megabits is 125 megabytes, remember 8 bits to 1 byte. With protocol overhead and so on, 110-115 MB/s is about as good as it gets.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 19:34
|
|
|
movax posted:iperf— there are even a few iOS apps implementing it. The EdgeRouter GUI lets you launch it, otherwise pick a fast machine on your LAN and run it as the server. Also if you have a router that can be flashed with Asuswrt-Merlin (probably also other custom firmwares) you can use Entware to grab iperf and run it via terminal. Needs a USB stick for storage.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2022 22:55
|
|
|
I have someone who bought a 3-floor home McMansion which was previously converted into office for a few dozen people, and he's trying to use it the same way. The place came outfitted with CAT5 and a very expensive Meraki suite that included VOIP. They're not doing VOIP so they want to ditch the Meraki and replace it with something that's a better value. They suggested Ubiquiti to me, which I loving loathed 10 years ago and I'm not impressed with all the security breaches, but maybe it's the lesser of evils? Any other recommendations? The place is wired for Cat5 in each room as I mentioned, but the walls are all thick stone. He is into the whole "mesh" gimmick but I think something like a central hub controlling APs might give the best results.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 23:00
|
|
|
draw.io works for diagrams if you’re not looking for anything too complicated
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2022 23:05
|
|
|
Thanks for the help thread, I wanted to give an update. I've had my Omada network running for a couple months now. I struggled to get the software working on my nas so I bought the controller. It was $80 and would have saved me a couple hours so I'd recommend buying it if you have any doubt. I think the issues I saw had something to do with port limitations between omada, docker, and Synology. If I had a real server I think I'd be able to get it to work. Once I plugged it all in, it was very simple to set up. I have the router, controller, 2 outdoor APs, and one indoor. They're all poe on new cat 6 runs. Somehow I followed the wrong colors on 2 of the keystones but it was enough to connect at 100mips. Omada indicated the line had slow speed and I saw the error on second look. The Wifi reaches 3-4 houses out front and beyond the backyard wall. It is awesome, no devices are hanging onto weak signals and I have great speed watching my daughter play out front. Reviewing my receipts, I spent about $350 on TPlink hardware from Amazon and $75 at monoprice for more cabling stuff than I needed. I ran the cable in a few hours and made all the connections when I could over several evenings. I was surprised to find a live Romex just taped and laying by an eave. That took one more trip to the store to get a box and nuts.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2022 00:01
|
|
|
Zero VGS posted:I have someone who bought a 3-floor home McMansion which was previously converted into office for a few dozen people, and he's trying to use it the same way. The place came outfitted with CAT5 and a very expensive Meraki suite that included VOIP. They're not doing VOIP so they want to ditch the Meraki and replace it with something that's a better value. They suggested Ubiquiti to me, which I loving loathed 10 years ago and I'm not impressed with all the security breaches, but maybe it's the lesser of evils? I'm biased because I've never had serious issues with Ubiquiti stuff, so I'd probably put Ubiquiti U6 Lite APs around the house and either a cloud key or the dream machine to handle them all. I just have two APs at home and keep the controller on a VM if I want to change anything or do updates but they just work in general. I have a couple of small business clients with 2-3 APs and cloud keys that have largely not had any issues as well. When they do have issues it's not usually that there's a problem with the wireless but more that they ask me to check on something and I can't get to the cloud key remotely. Seems to be a thing with some of the older cloud keys and cloud access to Ubiquiti's stuff lately. There are plenty of other ecosystems but it seems like any brand would be fine in general. The defining feature of mesh systems is that the access points have a wireless backhaul but I think some of them can also just be wired which would be beneficial. I'm not that familiar with who has what technology for each since I haven't had to set one up. I think a big part of the decision making process will be how much coverage each AP will get in that situation. Stone is bad for signals so if they have to buy one for every room it could add up, but they could potentially get away with fewer if it's not as bad as they think or there's a hallway location that lets the signal pass through doors into each room. It'd be worth getting one AP and trying it out and moving it around to see how coverage is. I think the U6 Lite is $99 and would probably be a good buy for that situation. Ubiquiti in general is a bad company in that they do stupid things and always seem to have their software lag behind the promises of what it can do, but once it's working it just seems to keep working. I'm also not sure anyone else has a comparable set of products for the price, but I'd like to know if they do.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2022 22:55
|
|
|
Not especially impressed with this TP-Link Omada setup. Due to wfh I'm locked into doing tech support for my spouse, and she keeps losing her connection to Zoom meetings even though I've got an EAP245 literally next to her MacBook Air and MacBook Pro on channels that have minimal if any interference. Starting to think I shouldn't have skipped Network+ because figuring out what is going wrong here is exhausting. If anyone has any suggestions for a networking idiot feel free. The real lesson is to plug the thing in, but apparently apple devices don't ship with an RJ45 port or dongle. I'm going to end up buying another switch and a handful of dongles just to get her office a reliable connection. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2022 16:47
|
|
|
It is technically possible to have a wifi source too close to the receiver...
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2022 16:54
|
|
|
Yeah, but it also happens when the ap is across the room. 🤷♂️ Anyway this SDN thing is cool in theory, but it would be great if it would work out of the box with basic settings. I probably should have returned it all when my first ap took a nap for a week for unknown & ungoogleable reasons. I’m sure this is all amazing if you’re a qualified network tech and not a dba/coder with only passing familiarity with networking. Whatever. I’ll just hope she doesn’t lose the deal because of network issues and spend my weekend trying to yank cable through the walls.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2022 17:50
|
|
|
are you using other Omada ecosystem stuff or just the AP? Are you looking at events in the controller software and seeing anything interesting? you also should make sure that all of your firmware and whatnot is up to date. you can buy as a stop gap a USB ethernet dongle for like twenty bucks for what its worth i am not a qualified network tech, i am a consultant so i am not qualified to do anything really and i managed to make it work without too much issue
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2022 18:01
|
|
|
I have a full Omada set-up, an ER605, O200, SG2210P, and a pair of EAP245s. Event log looks fine, although there have been a couple of WAN drop outs those aren’t associated with the connectivity loss events that I’m dealing with. If I’m coming off as panicked it’s because this wasn’t an issue until yesterday and I assumed we had a dongle that accepted an Ethernet cable. The meeting that matters is in like two hours, so getting a dongle now is not possible. Really thinking the solution is to hardwire everything critical and maybe get a second broadband service installed since we’re trying to do business over consumer broadband. Even symmetrical gigabit is useless if the WAN goes down.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2022 18:07
|
|
|
I assume that her devices are conencted to the proximate APs and aren't trying to hand off. I'd also try testing the APs individually and reinstalling their firmware if you haven't already. Does this only occur within Zoom on her computer? Might be an issue with her computer as well.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2022 18:28
|
|
|
Interestingly I discovered earlier that her Apppe products really wanted to connect to the 5GHz radio of the AP that’s much further away. I just disabled that radio and they jumped onto the close AP. There’s probably some more elegant way to fix that even if just to set up another SSID, but I’m trying to work my own job and homeschool a kid, so the expedient method it is. Anyway apologies for coming in here all hot and basically demanding tech support. I was just baffled that this system is so much hassle. I’ll add updating firmware to my list because it looks like not everything is up to date.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2022 18:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 16:44 |
|
|
Loucks posted:Interestingly I discovered earlier that her Apppe products really wanted to connect to the 5GHz radio of the AP that’s much further away. I just disabled that radio and they jumped onto the close AP. There’s probably some more elegant way to fix that even if just to set up another SSID, but I’m trying to work my own job and homeschool a kid, so the expedient method it is. I've found that Apple devices really don't like roaming between APs, and will stick to one that's not nearly as strong a signal for far longer than it should.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2022 20:03
|
|
