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TITTIEKISSER69
Mar 19, 2005

SAVE THE BEES
PLANT MORE TREES
CLEAN THE SEAS
KISS TITTIESS




havelock posted:

I briefly had hope that the solution would be that simple. Unfortunately, that times out just like port 80.

Strange, it worked for me - although I got the page saying it's risky to proceed and had to click Advanced->Proceed Anyway:

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ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Chuu posted:

Doug Knows - tons of home networking equipment review.

For some reason, the Orbi Pro systems go for half the price of the "standard" Orbi systems despite similar hardware. They both started around the same msrp as well. The feature on top of base functionality are very different, with the former have things that small businesses would want like that "Terms and Condition" page you sometimes have to click through on guest networks. As far as I can tell Costco doesn't carry the pro.

Sweet, thanks Chuu. Perfect reading material for a slow day at work.

Partycat
Oct 25, 2004

Nohearum posted:

Any thoughts on putting a ceiling mount access point (EAP225 or similar) inside a hallway closet? It's a generic suburban house with studs and drywall so I'm hoping the signal won't be degraded too much. It's the most centrally located spot on this particular floor that Ethernet can be run to without cutting out a ton of drywall.

Drywall attenuates the signal a bit but not enough to be worried about it

If your house was one of the lucky ones to have lathe , or I guess foil backed insulation where someone has Grovered up your closet, then it might not be the best but otherwise I wouldn't think twice about it.

Gothmog1065
May 14, 2009
I'm starting the planning process of upgrading my home network. Things I'm looking into:

- Smart switching, but not enterprise class (if that is even a thing).
- Poe network for camera support
- Cameras (probably not a huge number, ~5 or so)
- Meshish system (not really required, wifi coverage is pretty good throughout the house on one AP).
- basic VLAN support (To pull IOT and other garbage off my main network)

What I have:

- Edgerouter x
- 2 Unifi AP LITE APs (One is trash and doesn't allow anything to connect, I think it's broked).
- Dumb switch

What I'm looking at:
- Ubiquiti, namely because that's what I have now, and it still seems to be a pretty good option.
- Dream Machine
- U6 Lite/Pro (haven't really decided on which yet)
- USW 16/Lite 16 (Mostly for expandability in the future for camera suppport).

Future items:
Camera support
NAS support.

Is Ubiquiti still the way to go here? It seems a whole lot more available than it did in the past (Where you'd go months waiting on an AP/router to come back in stock). Has anyone used the camera system? While that is future use, I'm still thinking of where I'm going to put them, etc.

I'm assuming the Dream Machine still has the same CLI support on it with the firewall.

Eletriarnation
Apr 6, 2005

People don't appreciate the substance of things...
objects in space.


Oven Wrangler
I feel like you're usually going to pay more for Ubiquiti managed switches than Mikrotik at the same port count, but there's not a 1:1 match for every SKU and if you want everything to be managed through a single pane of glass you'll have to buy more Ubiquiti kit.

Just as an example, I have a Mikrotik 24x1G+2x10G router/switch that cost me $190. Ubiquiti's equivalent, the Switch Pro 24, is $400.

If you want to add PoE to a large switch it can get pretty expensive - the Switch Pro 24 PoE is $700. Consider whether having all that in one device is worth it to you, or if something like a multiport PoE injector might be preferable.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


I think maybe you misread the specs, the Unifi 24-port with 16 PoE ports is $380. The $700 one is a layer 3 switch, which it doesn’t sound like OP needs.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

I would slow down a bit and spend a bit more time researching that network upgrade. Don't fall into the sunk cost trap just because you already have some Unifi equipment.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Gothmog1065 posted:

- Smart switching, but not enterprise class (if that is even a thing).
Does smart switching mean level 3 or 4 switching instead of just level 2?
Or does it just mean one where you can manually configure ports?

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


I was assuming he meant managed vs unmanaged.

Gothmog1065
May 14, 2009

Bad Munki posted:

I was assuming he meant managed vs unmanaged.

Basically. A little more control on the ports is what I want. Definitely 0 need for L3 switching.

Eletriarnation posted:

I feel like you're usually going to pay more for Ubiquiti managed switches than Mikrotik at the same port count, but there's not a 1:1 match for every SKU and if you want everything to be managed through a single pane of glass you'll have to buy more Ubiquiti kit.

Just as an example, I have a Mikrotik 24x1G+2x10G router/switch that cost me $190. Ubiquiti's equivalent, the Switch Pro 24, is $400.

If you want to add PoE to a large switch it can get pretty expensive - the Switch Pro 24 PoE is $700. Consider whether having all that in one device is worth it to you, or if something like a multiport PoE injector might be preferable.

As someone pointed out, I'm looking at standard vs lite, not even looking at the pro variant. 16 Standard is sold out (of course, except for scalpers currently) so I'd probably end up with the lite. Ubiquiti doesn't offer anything less than 24 port POEless, so doing price comparisons the POE injector is about the same. Having a single interface WOULD be nice, but beggars and choosers and all of that.


Wibla posted:

I would slow down a bit and spend a bit more time researching that network upgrade. Don't fall into the sunk cost trap just because you already have some Unifi equipment.
The entire point of why I'm here, if there's anything comparable. I've heard both good and bad about Mikotik, didn't know if any of the others would be comparable to what I'm (trying to) do now.

DeNofa
Aug 25, 2009

WILL AMOUNT TO NOTHING IN LIFE.

Can anyone possibly help me out with what I'm missing here?

Formerly I had an old ASA at my edge with a Unifi AC AP doing wireless. ASA did routing and DHCP for the LAN.

Tonight I replaced the ASA with a Unifi UDM-PRO and some newer APs. My wired clients are getting DHCP, but my wireless clients are not. When I do a Wireshark on a wired client, I see a bunch of DHCP Discovers from my wireless clients, but very very rarely see an Offer going back from the UDM. Is there something obvious I'm missing?

Eletriarnation
Apr 6, 2005

People don't appreciate the substance of things...
objects in space.


Oven Wrangler

Bad Munki posted:

I think maybe you misread the specs, the Unifi 24-port with 16 PoE ports is $380. The $700 one is a layer 3 switch, which it doesn’t sound like OP needs.

I was including the 10G ports as part of the example, which Unifi's Standard switch does not have. If you don't care about those, then you can indeed get a cheaper model.

Chubby Henparty
Aug 13, 2007


I'm mucking about with a router that has freshtomato and trying to put ddwrt on it. Every time I reboot the router, the pc / phone / whatever its connected to is then dead to it. I can connect to the gateway from a new device, but the previous ones refuse to ever see it again, even after complete resets. I'm fast running out of devices.

What can I clear on the router or the pcs/phones so that they see the router again?

Partycat
Oct 25, 2004

Nothing that shouldn’t clear up by itself in 5 minutes or so anyway

I would peek the traffic to see what’s going on

Ffycchi
Jun 4, 2014

Sigh...challenge accepted...shitty photoshop incoming.

DeNofa posted:

Can anyone possibly help me out with what I'm missing here?

Formerly I had an old ASA at my edge with a Unifi AC AP doing wireless. ASA did routing and DHCP for the LAN.

Tonight I replaced the ASA with a Unifi UDM-PRO and some newer APs. My wired clients are getting DHCP, but my wireless clients are not. When I do a Wireshark on a wired client, I see a bunch of DHCP Discovers from my wireless clients, but very very rarely see an Offer going back from the UDM. Is there something obvious I'm missing?


Do you have DHCP guarding on?

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM
Hey everybody, two questions.

1> What's the cheapest place to get a Ubiquiti CloudKey 2+? Or does it not matter, just pay?

2> Will I hate myself for not just ponying up for the DreamMachine Pro? I have a USG now and it's fine, but I wanna do some cameras/recording and the CloudKey is the easiest entry. I expect I could probably fetch a pittance in the secondary market for the USG, but it's just hard to justify spending $200 more for a few nice PoE ports and some 10GbE I may never use...

Escape Goat
Jan 30, 2009

I think it's time to replace my ancient Airport Extreme with something that supports the latest WiFi standards. I've got Gigabit fiber.

I don't need anything fancy, just want something as reliable and preferably nondescript as possible (not flashing RGB LEDs)

- Would also be nice if it had 5 or 6 or more ethernet ports, as much of my TV/console setup is wired
- I'm in a tiny apartment with very little space to cover

Willing to pay for quality/reliability but otherwise my needs are basic. If Apple still made Airports Extreme I'd just buy another. Does the thread have a go-to recommendation? Is the OP still relevant? :unsmith:

sailormoon
Jun 28, 2014

fighting evil by moonlight
winning love by daylight


Rexxed posted:

You see how those cat5 cables are punched down with only 4 wires, and the rest of the wires are wrapped back along the cable? That's because they're being used for phones. You should find outlets in some rooms which have phone jacks. The good part is that you have cat5 in the house. The bad news is that that terminal block is useless for ethernet.

With phone, you can just take two wires and add more wires to split off from them to add extensions. Ethernet requires a powered device like a switch or hub to turn one wire into many. What you'll want to do there, ideally, is to get a network patch panel and punch those cables down into it, then run small ethernet cables (patch cables) to a switch. You can also just put ends on them and put them directly to the switch, that's just messier.

Then, in the rooms where those terminate you will need to remove the phone jacks and put in network jacks. Phone plugs are RJ11 which can handle up to 6 wires (but two or four are typically used for one or two lines), and you'll want RJ45 which are 8 position 8 conductor.

Usually in the thread we recommend keystone jacks since you can get a wall plate or baseboard plate that the network jack pops into after you've punched down the wires on it. There's a ton of different style of plates that will work for most installs.

I'd probably pick this stuff up but you don't have to get exactly this, it's just mostly what came up on amazon:
Patch panel for the box:
https://smile.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-TC-P12C6V-Horizontal-Installation/dp/B08G5CVX3K/

Patch cables to go to your switch from the patch panel (you can make your own if you want or buy another brand. Monoprice is still good for bulk cabling). If you need more than 1 foot there's some brands with 3 foot ones.
https://smile.amazon.com/GearIT-Ethernet-Cable-Snagless-Patch/dp/B00EP2JJVA/

Keystone jacks with a punchdown tool you can use on your patch panel and on the keystone jacks:
https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B0BCJRMRDL

Keystone plates to hold the jacks in the rooms. You can get different sizes and styles, I'm just linking the normal wall plate style. It doesn't hurt to buy 2 port if you think you might run extra cables or coax or something later:
https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Profile-Keystone/dp/B074HHDJWT/

Blank inserts to cover the extra holes if you buy 2 or more slot panels and don't use them all:
https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-20-Pack-Keystone-Inserts/dp/B01AYKR63O/

You can save some money by buying similar stuff from monoprice and in quantities you need instead of the common larger packs on amazon (which are bundled to make it worth stocking and selling them through amazon). You can also get the same stuff at Home Depot or Lowes but it tends to cost more and they may not have everything.

It's not a bad idea to get a tester to check the runs after doing your punch downs. I've had to re-punch things now and then and I check every line and cable. Even a cheapo tester will show you if pairs aren't working:
https://smile.amazon.com/Rosewill-RTK-006-Network-Ethernet-Telephone/dp/B00558ORWO/

Thank you so much for your help here.

I have one more follow-up dumb question: that patch panel looks like it requires raw wires --> ethernet jack. Is it possible or dumb to do RJ45 --> ethernet jack instead of raw wires? So it would basically be ethernet jack --> ethernet jack for the patch panel. I'm mostly worried about messing around with the raw wires and it seems possibly easier to get a crimper, but maybe that's not the best way to think about it.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

sailormoon posted:

Thank you so much for your help here.

I have one more follow-up dumb question: that patch panel looks like it requires raw wires --> ethernet jack. Is it possible or dumb to do RJ45 --> ethernet jack instead of raw wires? So it would basically be ethernet jack --> ethernet jack for the patch panel. I'm mostly worried about messing around with the raw wires and it seems possibly easier to get a crimper, but maybe that's not the best way to think about it.

They make them, but usually punching down the cables is a better connection. Most of them use a 110 punch down tool like this one and the color codes will be specified on the punch down block itself:
https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM

Some punchdown blocks or jacks may come with a plastic one but the metal ones are nice because if you use the pointy end on the outside of the jack it cuts the end of the wire flush with the terminal. Buying one is optional if the jack comes with one, though, it's just nice to have.

Nohearum
Nov 2, 2013
Picked up a used UAP-IW-HD wall mount access point to put on an Ethernet outlet I just fished. The speeds are ok nearby but the range really, really sucks. Is there any other better Poe/Poe+ access point that can mount to a standard Ethernet outlet box? Ceiling mounts aren't possible in this particular area.


I previously had a cheap RE450 range extender set to access point mode at that location that was working way better. Unfortunately that extender requires AC power so I had to run an Ethernet cable to the power outlet which drew complaints from the complaint department.

Partycat
Oct 25, 2004

Check the configuration of the device to make sure it’s running at a higher power level ? Looking briefly at the data sheet and that , it’s reasonably omnidirectional , and has good output power . Normally those I would expect to want to run at low power given their point of use nature but it should be capable .

Nohearum
Nov 2, 2013

Partycat posted:

Check the configuration of the device to make sure it’s running at a higher power level ? Looking briefly at the data sheet and that , it’s reasonably omnidirectional , and has good output power . Normally those I would expect to want to run at low power given their point of use nature but it should be capable .

Changed it from auto to high. Didn't notice an immediate change but I will give it a few days.

Head Bee Guy
Jun 12, 2011

Retarded for Busting
Grimey Drawer
What’s a good linux program for viewing/analyzing web traffic from CLI?

BlankSystemDaemon
Mar 13, 2009



Head Bee Guy posted:

What’s a good linux program for viewing/analyzing web traffic from CLI?
tshark

Head Bee Guy
Jun 12, 2011

Retarded for Busting
Grimey Drawer
thanks!

Whitest Russian
Nov 23, 2013
My AC1750 is almost 8 years old and is actively dying. I don't feel like doing any actual networking in this home so what's a good router/switch combo to get that doesn't force me to subscribe to a service.

I'm thinking somewhere in the $200/300 range.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Whitest Russian posted:

My AC1750 is almost 8 years old and is actively dying. I don't feel like doing any actual networking in this home so what's a good router/switch combo to get that doesn't force me to subscribe to a service.

I'm thinking somewhere in the $200/300 range.

I've had good luck with ASUS routers if you have to go with a commercial one, in that they tend to last a long time and often have third party firmware available if you want it. If you want to future proof a little bit get a wifi 6 one. I can't speak to a particular model since mine are the old T-Mobile cellspot ac ones flashed to dd-wrt but these are under $300. The one that's the most expensive has a 2.5Gb port but you're probably not going to need that unless you get 2.5Gb internet service so it's mostly on there to be on there:

$159 https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-RT-AX3000-802-11ax-Lifetime-Whole-Home/dp/B084BNH26P/
$179 https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-AX5700-Gaming-Router-RT-AX86S/dp/B09GP8PCF6/
$261 https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-RT-AX86U-802-11ax-Lifetime-Internet/dp/B08BJHS3X7/

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense
I have some ethernet cable in my walls, I don't know what they are. The one cable I can see says cat 5e, but there's likely many different cables and shady connectors in there. I'd like to measure the speed from one wall socket to one wall socket.

To see if it truly is gigabit.

Is there software I can run on my computer to do this? Maybe a lan from my pc to the router speed test?

Nolgthorn fucked around with this message at 13:08 on Nov 22, 2022

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Iperf?

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense
That needs to be running on both ends, so I guess, plug another computer into the router?

kliras
Mar 27, 2021
my router has become some expensive garbage that doesn't receive firmware updates and it seems like a bad idea to use it for devices outside anything that relies on good wifi range. it's just operating as an extension at the moment

so i'm thinking a basic unmanaged switch with basic stuff like qos. my current isp is supposed to offer 1000/500 on paper, and maybe a 2.5g port for futureproofing would be nice. eight ports total is probably good. i don't keep it near other stuff like iot so poe doesn't really matter

i'll just leave the port forwarding to the isp modem-router

since there's been all kinds of acquisitions and scandals, i don't know what the reputable companies are these days, or if there's any go-to models? nothing overly complicated, but it'll be in a bedroom, so no crazy lights and noise

bobfather
Sep 20, 2001

I will analyze your nervous system for beer money

Nolgthorn posted:

That needs to be running on both ends, so I guess, plug another computer into the router?

Also could plug in a gig-capable switch on one end and a gig-capable device on the other end and see if the switch negotiates a gigabit link (could say so on a status light or in the switch management page).

Partycat
Oct 25, 2004

Nolgthorn posted:

I have some ethernet cable in my walls, I don't know what they are. The one cable I can see says cat 5e, but there's likely many different cables and shady connectors in there. I'd like to measure the speed from one wall socket to one wall socket.

To see if it truly is gigabit.

Is there software I can run on my computer to do this? Maybe a lan from my pc to the router speed test?

If all wires have connectivity odds are it will be fine for gigabit. Performance testing the wire requires tools to know its quality.
Otherwise the suggestion to use iperf, or even fast.com to make sure you're getting expected performance to your ISP, both would work to make sure there isn't some major issue.

Odds are it's fine, unless its been damaged or was some of the cheap scam wire from Amazon

Twerk from Home
Jan 17, 2009

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

Partycat posted:

If all wires have connectivity odds are it will be fine for gigabit. Performance testing the wire requires tools to know its quality.
Otherwise the suggestion to use iperf, or even fast.com to make sure you're getting expected performance to your ISP, both would work to make sure there isn't some major issue.

Odds are it's fine, unless its been damaged or was some of the cheap scam wire from Amazon

Out of curiosity, are the tools to test ethernet cord quality cheap? I'm a different poster also dealing with spotty connections in my house. I'm also using the same old collection of patch cables for the patch connections, one of which I noticed was stamped 1997 and could only negotiate fast ethernet.

The bigger problem is that I've had an occasional disconnections on the run between where my modem is and where most of my devices and WAP is, which involves 2 patch cables plus the permanently installed run in the wall, and I don't know which one is the problem. I've been switching patch cables and trying to figure it out, but I'd love to know if my ethernet cables are good or bad.

BlankSystemDaemon
Mar 13, 2009



Stuff that can test even up to cat6a is insanely cheap, yeah.

I think I bought the one I have now for $42 at some point, and I'd be surprised if they're that expensive now.

Less Fat Luke
May 23, 2003

Exciting Lemon
Well after thinking Unifi's stuff had gotten pretty solid in the last year I am now swearing the gently caress off them.

The UDM Pro has had a small point update for a couple weeks and I finally clicked update when the network was quiet - turned into an absolute loving poo poo show. First, turns out the new firmware doesn't let you set an SFP port speed which I needed to for Bell Canada's fiber. Then while simply looking at the UI in the port management section the machine rebooted after the update (with no working Internet mind you) and then the UI pretty much stopped working with Java exceptions about duplicate WLAN keys filling the logs.

Then after a factory restore and manual upgrade to get things working again, the UDM I guess was faster than me and upgraded again to 1.12.33. So now I put my ISP equipment in bridge mode.

Most of the network configuration got restored thankfully, then there was warnings with Protect not restoring. So I restored the last backup from a few days ago - first impression was "nice all the cameras and detections work". Then I noticed that it had decided to lose all recordings and events for several months.

I was on chat with support all morning who were of zero help and basically said yeah the upgrade can go bad, keep backups around which I did but still wasted half a day just getting things working again.

That was the last straw I guess, back to pfsense for and zoneminder for me.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

BlankSystemDaemon posted:

Stuff that can test even up to cat6a is insanely cheap, yeah.

I think I bought the one I have now for $42 at some point, and I'd be surprised if they're that expensive now.
Lol what? You have a $42 analyzer that actually measures cable performance instead of a basic continuity/miswire check?

For most people a wiremap check is good enough, but 6a implies 10gig speeds which will not tolerate sketchy splices or wires pinched between the stud and sheetrock or whatever was happening under this defective cable that I stripped back to troubleshoot:

CopperHound fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Nov 23, 2022

BlankSystemDaemon
Mar 13, 2009



CopperHound posted:

Lol what? You have a $42 analyzer that actually measures cable performance instead of a basic continuity/miswire check?

For most people a wiremap check is good enough, but 6a implies 10gig speeds which will not tolerate sketchy splices or wires pinched between the stud and sheetrock or whatever was happening under this defective cable that I stripped back to troubleshoot:

It does continuity, miswire, and some kind of flow test but the latter is one I've never been completely sure about.
As for 10G, I use SFP+ because anything that's 10G in my network is also going to benefit from the order of magnitude lower latency that SFP+ has over RJ45.

I still maintain that the only proper way to do a speedtest is using iperf (preferably v2, as v3 can't do multithreading properly).

MadFriarAvelyn
Sep 25, 2007

So my apartment has ethernet wired through the walls, but whoever setup the patch panel only wired one ethernet port in each room instead of both. This throws a wrench in my networking plans. I've been dealing with this for almost a year now and want to get my switch wired back up so I can get every device in my apartment that has an ethernet port plugged into wired ethernet.

How hard and what tools would be required for a complete novice to finish setting up the rest of the ports? Or is this a job better suited for a call to my ISP to get a contractor to come out?

[Edit] Or should I just be a degenerate and buy a switch for the networking closet and each room and deal with it that way?

MadFriarAvelyn fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Nov 23, 2022

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BlankSystemDaemon
Mar 13, 2009



MadFriarAvelyn posted:

So my apartment has ethernet wired through the walls, but whoever setup the patch panel only wired one ethernet port in each room instead of both. This throws a wrench in my networking plans. I've been dealing with this for almost a year now and want to get my switch wired back up so I can get every device in my apartment that has an ethernet port plugged into wired ethernet.

How hard and what tools would be required for a complete novice to finish setting up the rest of the ports? Or is this a job better suited for a call to my ISP to get a contractor to come out?

[Edit] Or should I just be a degenerate and buy a switch for the networking closet and each room and deal with it that way?
A distribution switch with PoE-out on most of its ports and a couple of edge switches with PoE-in is absolutely a way to solve this.
It'll also give you a really easy way to deploy multiple access points to make use of roaming, which makes wireless function about as well as it can.

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