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BlankSystemDaemon posted:As for 10G, I use SFP+ because anything that's 10G in my network is also going to benefit from the order of magnitude lower latency that SFP+ has over RJ45. I sure wish this would die because no it will not benefit. That latency is measured in microseconds and it's a really really dumb reason to go with fiber at home in a small network. Weigh cost, power efficiency, and a need for mgig or poe support.
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Nov 24, 2022 05:23
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KS posted:I sure wish this would die because no it will not benefit. That latency is measured in microseconds and it's a really really dumb reason to go with fiber at home in a small network. Weigh cost, power efficiency, and a need for mgig or poe support. Also, used X520 NICs can be had for insanely cheap in most places.
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Nov 24, 2022 05:28
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MadFriarAvelyn posted:So my apartment has ethernet wired through the walls, but whoever setup the patch panel only wired one ethernet port in each room instead of both. There options for both.
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Nov 24, 2022 06:20
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CopperHound posted:As in two cables but only one is hooked up or two jacks and only one cable? Each room in the apartment has a panel on the wall with two ethernet ports on it, but only one port on each panel is wired up at the patch panel in the networking closet. Outside of a lot of cursing while trying to figure out which combination of ports points to where (thanks, zero documentation in the networking closet or otherwise), each room in the apartment has one active ethernet port and one port that gives a whole lot of nothing. At my previous apartment every port was wired up at the patch panel, so I could forward the connection from my ISP installed fiber box through one of two ethernet ports closest to the center of my apartment to my wireless router and WFH setup. Then I piped one ethernet port from that back through the second port back to the networking closet, which then got split up by a switch to the remaining ethernet ports in the networking closet to the rest of the apartment. Being able to repeat the same would be ideal: same ISP and fiber box as the last place, and it would let me keep the same setup without buying additional hardware (at the expense of finishing punching down the rest of the ethernet ports, and documenting which port went where in the networking closet so the next person living here doesn't deal with the same poo poo). BlankSystemDaemon posted:A distribution switch with PoE-out on most of its ports and a couple of edge switches with PoE-in is absolutely a way to solve this. If this is the best solution and throwing down a wired router in my networking closet that got piped to a switch in each room via the one active ethernet port, maybe throwing some extra money at some extra hardware to save myself some headache might be the approach to use? Switches I can do, I already have a cheap 8 port TP-Link from my last apartment that works well enough I could probably rely on the same in each room, but if anyone has some suggestions for some four port wired routers to install in my networking closet I'm all ears. Maybe one that'd let me VPN in to my home network would be neat? My current wireless router is an ASUS special that's already providing good enough wifi to cover the entirety of my apartment so long as it isn't the sole hardware I lock into my networking closet, so I wouldn't need anything that acts as an additional wifi access point.
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Nov 24, 2022 07:51
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So do the second wires run to the patch panel and are just unterminated, or are they not even there? Could easily be for phone and connected in a star pattern somewhere. If they do run to the patch panel, termination is easy and all the tools you need are <$50 in total, but differ a little bit based on if you want to punch down vs crimp. BlankSystemDaemon posted:If you're doing iSCSI over 10G SFP+ to NVMe backed storage, the latency makes a difference. It does not make a difference. The difference in 10gbase-T SFP+ vs fiber SFP+ is ~2µs. Here are links in that chain that dwarf switch latency: The NVME drives themselves. 20µs for bleeding edge enterprise, 100µs+ for the very best consumer. Kernel networking. 40µs typical. NIC choice. Chelsio cards hold double-digit µs leads over those x520s. Framing recommendations in this thread around home lab stuff seems pretty questionable in any case.
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Nov 24, 2022 14:26
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KS posted:It does not make a difference. The difference in 10gbase-T SFP+ vs fiber SFP+ is ~2µs. Here are links in that chain that dwarf switch latency: SFP+ has a latency of about 0.3μs whereas RJ45 with 8P8C has a latency of about 2.5μs. If the SCSI READ command of the iSCSI initiator returns something that was cached by the system that acts as the iSCSI target, it doesn't matter how fast the underlying storage is, since memory accesss happens on the order of 100ns. I don't know what kernel you think takes 40μs to handle any networking request, but it certainly isn't FreeBSD which is what I'm using. zpool iostat -w and -l showed a clear difference when I was testing by booting and using my buildserver off an iSCSI target. Unfortunately I don't have the numbers anymore, but here's an example of the latency distribution from my T480s running FreeBSD 14-CURRENT as of a few days ago: pre:zroot total_wait disk_wait syncq_wait asyncq_wait latency read write read write read write read write scrub trim rebuild ---------- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- 1ns 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3ns 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 7ns 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 15ns 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 31ns 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 63ns 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 127ns 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 255ns 0 0 0 0 2.54K 2.95K 469 59 1 2 0 511ns 0 0 0 0 415K 68.0K 186K 31.1K 7 875 0 1us 0 0 0 0 876K 100K 172K 89.7K 2 6.32K 0 2us 0 0 0 0 1.09M 240K 39.2K 166K 0 25.4K 0 4us 0 0 0 0 269K 138K 13.0K 350K 1 48.2K 0 8us 0 0 0 0 9.51K 59.7K 1.70K 129K 1 81.4K 0 16us 0 0 0 0 1.17K 870 1.60K 45.3K 2 688 0 32us 14.4K 0 15.3K 0 692 548 2.39K 88.8K 7 230 0 65us 37.6K 67.5K 39.1K 537K 235 195 3.72K 190K 30 11 0 131us 1.78M 367K 1.85M 1.28M 260 313 8.07K 341K 34 1 0 262us 901K 903K 858K 2.70M 301 676 19.5K 665K 23 3 0 524us 310K 1.42M 334K 1.56M 122 2.71K 22.3K 1019K 17 2 0 1ms 63.5K 1.35M 34.5K 168K 10 7.09K 15.5K 987K 13 2 0 2ms 26.7K 1.23M 11.0K 125K 196 1.57K 6.97K 1.07M 16 28.4K 0 4ms 6.98K 816K 4.36K 248K 13 456 1.45K 516K 1 67.1K 0 8ms 1.91K 319K 1.00K 28.0K 18 297 1.19K 265K 0 135K 0 16ms 1.01K 148K 10 441 1 174 940 125K 0 354K 0 33ms 237 51.3K 4 57 0 140 193 43.8K 0 52 0 67ms 97 9.95K 2 26 0 251 69 8.90K 0 8 0 134ms 0 1.59K 0 6 0 305 0 1.20K 0 0 0 268ms 0 122 0 1 0 0 0 119 0 0 0 536ms 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1s 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2s 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 4s 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 8s 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 17s 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 34s 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 68s 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 137s 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- BlankSystemDaemon fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Nov 24, 2022 |
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Nov 24, 2022 21:16
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Our wireless router is dying at work... is there any goon recommendation that I could buy today now that there are sales?
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Nov 25, 2022 16:50
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Astro7x posted:Our wireless router is dying at work... is there any goon recommendation that I could buy today now that there are sales? Does work have an IT department or is it just a small business using consumer products? I'm going to assume the latter just due to the post in the home networking thread and link the amazon black friday deals page that has a few routers on it: https://smile.amazon.com/deal/2d812a6b?showVariations=true These days I'd just buy some Wifi 6 router and I've had good luck with ASUS or TP-Link as consumer routers. I have no idea if netgear is good any more, I think they peaked in the 90s. I wouldn't hesitate to buy the $90 ASUS ROG gaming router if it was in my price range since they're just using gaming as a marketing gimmick and it won't make much of a difference to business use cases (at least if your work fits into the above description). In this case it's mostly going to have the gaming branding. https://smile.amazon.com/ASUS-GT-AC2900-Dual-Band-Wireless-Gigabit/dp/B07VPL5WP3
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Nov 25, 2022 19:14
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BlankSystemDaemon posted:Stuff that can test even up to cat6a is insanely cheap, yeah. That is useless to determine the actual performance of the cable . Testers are probably well over $1,000 for something used that will do 6A . If you can test the cable and make sure that it’s perf is within the spec , then you should get the expected speed if the equipment is capable of it . You can take the speed test route , but it will not tell you if your unexpected result is because of the cabling , the equipment , the parameters given to iPerf , etc . It’s the point of the expensive calibrated tester , as it provides a comparative repeatable known .
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Nov 25, 2022 19:49
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For reference you can rent a tester that will certify the cabling for 6A at a level which will support 10GbE at 100m , for about $500 for a week. https://www.fiberinstrumentsales.com/test-equipment-rentals For 1G there’s a lot more headroom for the install to be less tight and still work well. Fluke’s CableIQ , now LinkIQ , qualifies the cabling for a lot less money but without anywhere near the same number of tests.
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Nov 25, 2022 19:55
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Alright, maybe this isn't the best thread for this, but I'm in need of UPS suggestions. I've been through two CyberPower OR700LCDRM1U units (and a warranty battery replacement on one of them) - and it is again not actually keeping my networking gear up when the power drops. It acts like it is in battery mode, but immediately goes to <50% battery capacity and all my network gear is offline. I've also had what I suspect are power transients that have been resolved quickly, but not quick enough that my NAS (ds1821+) doesn't restart, despite my network gear staying up. Anyways, I'm tired of these units and their poor longevity, and am interested in doing something different, and getting a larger battery capacity (1500VA). I have a shallow two post, 12U rack, so I recognize I am liking going to have to move to something that sits on top of the rack cabinet rather than being inside - as I don't really see larger UPSs that are capable of a two post mount due to size and weight. Right now the 4 things I have on UPS power are an SB8200, USG-PRO-4, US-16-150W (which runs my 3 wifi APs among other, less important things I don't care about in a power outage), and the DS1821+. I was looking at 1500VA options from APC in their Smart-UPS line. I recognize those may be overkill, but I would rather spend a little more than deal with a poo poo UPS failing on me in 2-3 years again. I also like the idea of ostensibly better power-conditioning and switchover time, since it appears my NAS is somewhat sensitive. Does anyone have experience with the Smart-UPS line, or anything else in that rough class to give me some insight or re-direct me?
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Nov 25, 2022 20:10
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Long ago I dealt with Smart-UPS. As long as you mild battery life and calibration, they were rock solid.
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Nov 26, 2022 01:38
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Rexxed posted:Does work have an IT department or is it just a small business using consumer products? I'm going to assume the latter just due to the post in the home networking thread and link the amazon black friday deals page that has a few routers on it: All good info, thanks! Yes, we're a small business that just has people doing office stuff on laptops, but I feel like I keep buying routers that are die quickly. Our Nighthawk router died after about 1 1/2 years, and we didn't even use it until recently really because we were all working from home.
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Nov 26, 2022 08:17
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Astro7x posted:All good info, thanks! This is an answer you rarely ever see but have you considered just renting the ISP provided router? Sure it might be a little more expensive in the long run but they should give support for it and replace it if anything happens. The one I was provided from Verizon for my last business account was a pretty solid and high specced device. Alternatively you can go with an Omada router + AP for $160 or a Meraki Go Router + AP for $210 if you want something easy to set up and manage while still budget friendly. Cyks fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Nov 26, 2022 |
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Nov 26, 2022 13:51
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Nohearum posted:Picked up a used UAP-IW-HD wall mount access point to put on an Ethernet outlet I just fished. The speeds are ok nearby but the range really, really sucks. Is there any other better Poe/Poe+ access point that can mount to a standard Ethernet outlet box? Ceiling mounts aren't possible in this particular area. Just as a note - these types of APs are designed with hotel rooms in mind - so installing one per room. And with that in mind, the range is designed to be low so not to overlap frequency very much. If you don't care about athestic at all, most ceiling APs can be installed wall style on a gang box. 😁
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Nov 26, 2022 15:15
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Yeah, the in-wall APs are designed to cover a single room. If you can't ceiling mount an AP, either use more in-wall APs or you could put a ceiling AP upside down on a lower shelf and get decent coverage. That's what I did with our ceiling mount AP until we had the wire run to the upstairs ceiling.
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Nov 26, 2022 19:29
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My house is wired for cat5e. How crazy of an idea is it to tie a cat6 to the end of one of one of the cat5e cables and pull it through? From the part that is exposed in the crawl space it looked loosely stapled, and I was thinking it might just work. The run I want to replace is not accessible unless I open up the drywall. I think if it was I fastened them together so it's nice a flash and a little bendable, maybe just maybe...though I worry if it got stuck halfway through then I'm SOL with not even a cat5e to use anymore.
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Nov 26, 2022 21:00
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You might get gigabit on the existing wire. Why upgrade? Is there any place where you absolutely need gigabit?
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Nov 26, 2022 23:08
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fletcher posted:My house is wired for cat5e. How crazy of an idea is it to tie a cat6 to the end of one of one of the cat5e cables and pull it through? From the part that is exposed in the crawl space it looked loosely stapled, and I was thinking it might just work. The run I want to replace is not accessible unless I open up the drywall. I think if it was I fastened them together so it's nice a flash and a little bendable, maybe just maybe...though I worry if it got stuck halfway through then I'm SOL with not even a cat5e to use anymore. Unless you need to potentially support above 1Gb over that run I wouldn't do it. Cat5e is fine for gigabit and sometimes higher under very limited conditions at lower lengths of run. If the cable gets stuck you'd need to fish a whole new line through and since it has staples somewhere and isn't entirely free there's a good chance it'd bind up at some point. Usually if you're worried about a run from a basement or crawlspace into a wall you can usually see where it goes up and either fish it up from the bottom or down from on top in the outlet hole with a fish tape or those fiberglass rods that screw together. Well, you usually fish through a string that isn't super rough and then tie/tape the cable to the end to pull through.
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Nov 26, 2022 23:09
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There’s no point in replacing 5e with 6 . Regarding the hospitality AP, I checked the spec sheet - it’s relatively omnidirectional and has p much the same power as the AC lite. In some cases yeah it might be one per room or one every other , but it also appears to be a viable general use AP, mindful of the height .
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Nov 26, 2022 23:42
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My motivation for replacing it is to get 10 Gbps. I can currently get around 3 Gbps over it, but my internet connection is 6 Gbps. If I can get 10 gig over this run I can relocate my NAS as well
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Nov 27, 2022 03:05
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For a short run you may be able to do 5Gbit on 5e, 2.5Gb should be no problem. All sort of depends on the equipment you have handy. I see more things that support 2.5Gbit, and others that have a 10G-E port which maybe also does 2.5/5 . I haven't run into any sort of formula that would tell you that you can support 2.5/5/10 on whatever length of 5e, it all comes with caveats about quality of the channel. Category 6A cabling is what you want, if you want to have 10Gb. It is a bit larger diameter. I've done enough cable installation work that I would say if you find the wire does "pull", tape on some poly line or something meant for pulling, and pull that through. Heck, double it up even so you have one to pull the new cable, and one you can staple or tie off for later. Assuming whoever put the original wiring in didn't staple it to the studs, or use 3/8" holes or something terrible. Either way it will probably snag, and if it's not the kind of run where you can use a fish tape or glow rods well... just be prepared to install a new hole, open the wall, etc. You can try and wiggle it around but with too much force it will just pull off the cable and you're hosed, unless you have that other poly line to try again. If you're investing in equipment for this, consider fiber optic. Granted you can get devices with native copper ports supporting .3bz and the speeds you want, but often times there's at least one SFP+ cage. Multimode 10Gb optics are cheap. On the computer end, however, you'd need some other piece of equipment - another switch, a NIC, media converter, etc. Unless you can terminate the cabling yourself however, you'd want to get something pre-terminated, and that is unlikely to pull through the existing opening without knowing for sure that someone left you a nice inch hole to pull through.
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Nov 27, 2022 16:24
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fletcher posted:My motivation for replacing it is to get 10 Gbps. I can currently get around 3 Gbps over it, but my internet connection is 6 Gbps. If I can get 10 gig over this run I can relocate my NAS as well If it's going to be beneficial, I'd try it. Just be aware that if it doesn't work you're going to need to redo the run. I'd probably plan on having to run it and be happy if it works and you don't have to do the run. If you have a snag I'd probably just get in the crawlspace and pull the rest of the cat6 to where it goes back up into the destination wall (where you were pulling the 5e out) and just use the 5e as your guide. Yeah, it's a pain, but you only have to do it once.
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Nov 28, 2022 12:55
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Is there a sub-$100 desktop switch with 2x 2.5GbE (or faster) ports and at least 2x 1GbE (or faster) ports? I don't want to reduce the speed of my computer's 2.5GbE connection but I need to connect a non-wifi-having device here now and pulling a second ethernet cable here would be an enormous pain in my rear end. Getting a wifi adapter is also an option but I'd prefer wired if there's a solution that's not significantly more expensive.
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Nov 28, 2022 14:38
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Is there a label maker you guys like for labeling cables, patch panels, etc? Ideally something that can do tiny multi-line labels.power crystals posted:Is there a sub-$100 desktop switch with 2x 2.5GbE (or faster) ports and at least 2x 1GbE (or faster) ports? I don't want to reduce the speed of my computer's 2.5GbE connection but I need to connect a non-wifi-having device here now and pulling a second ethernet cable here would be an enormous pain in my rear end. Getting a wifi adapter is also an option but I'd prefer wired if there's a solution that's not significantly more expensive. I don't see anything under the $100 price point that, but there are some decent options close to it like this 5 port 2.5Gb trendnet switch. TP-Link has a similar offering for $129 as well.
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Nov 30, 2022 17:42
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fletcher posted:Is there a label maker you guys like for labeling cables, patch panels, etc? Ideally something that can do tiny multi-line labels. I have noticed a lot of small bluetooth enabled ones on amazon where you use your phone, I’m going to get one for work to try them out. I had used dymo a lot in the past as well they are usually pretty good.
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Nov 30, 2022 17:46
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I have one a step up from this : https://www.dymo.com/label-makers-printers/rhino-label-makers/dymo-rhino-4200-label-maker/SP_95517.html You can get flexible nylon tapes which are great for cables . Various other types of tapes in different widths and styles , USB to use the computer , etc . Way better than p touch. Brady has a few options as well good for duty work .
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Nov 30, 2022 22:25
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fletcher posted:I don't see anything under the $100 price point that, but there are some decent options close to it like this 5 port 2.5Gb trendnet switch. TP-Link has a similar offering for $129 as well. I saw both of those as well and decided in the end to just go for the $30 wifi adapter instead. Thank you for looking, though!
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Nov 30, 2022 22:36
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I really like my Brady M210
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Dec 1, 2022 19:45
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Well, I don't exactly trust the OP to be up to date at this point, so I'll ask here. My ISP has given me this mesh router system called Plume which is total crap and borderline spyware. I don't have the means to set up moca and I've heard the powerline adapters are super unreliable, so I think a mesh system probably is the best option for me to get a connection in the rooms where I need them. Which one of that lot would you recommend?
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Dec 2, 2022 01:07
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I keep hearing good things from friends about the ZenWifi xt8 system. I set up an older 3 puck Google Wifi for my parents recently which just works out of the box if you don't need specific configuration and can be had on the cheap since the Nest Wifi products are two generations ahead now. Not sure of the quality of the Nest Wifi though.
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Dec 2, 2022 01:55
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Can anybody help me with a config block for my centurylink fiber with an edgerouter lite? I've tried sixteen million variations and can never get Internet through it. i have been able to ping google dns from the router, etc. but i've never been able to get my LAN machines working on it yet. Super frustrated. pppoe, vlan tag 201, nothing special. I guess i'm just bad at configs. edit: problem solved. the config wizard sucks, doesn't actually create the pppoe link, and then after that the masquerade rule is set to masq to pppoe0 even though it forces you to create pppoe1. i'm up. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Dec 2, 2022 |
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Dec 2, 2022 02:03
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It’s older but I’m still going to recommend the Orbi rbk50 as long as two APs are enough for you (and it will be for the vast majority). Currently under $150 on Amazon with a dedicated radio for backhaul.
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Dec 2, 2022 02:04
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withoutclass posted:I keep hearing good things from friends about the ZenWifi xt8 system. As long as it lets me set my port forwarding and IP reservations like normal, it'll probably work for me.
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Dec 2, 2022 02:19
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Anyone having problems with UniFi's 6.2.44 firmware for their APs? Mine just updated last night and it took out the AP. Huge poo poo show of rolling it back to get it working again
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Dec 2, 2022 23:31
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6.2.44 runs fine on my U6-LR, though I do remember reading in the release notes that it's chiefly meant for Gen 5 APs and up. Perhaps it breaks sync with the Network app? I don't have a UDM to test though.
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Dec 2, 2022 23:39
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Yeah idk what's up. UniFi network app says it's still running 6.2.44, I don't know why that is but it seems to be working fine now 
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Dec 3, 2022 00:06
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Arson Daily posted:Anyone having problems with UniFi's 6.2.44 firmware for their APs? Mine just updated last night and it took out the AP. Huge poo poo show of rolling it back to get it working again Sorry to hear about your struggle. I have auto update on, looks like all my APs are running 6.2.44 now and I haven't noticed any hiccups.
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Dec 3, 2022 00:32
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Any reason to buy Ubiquiti over Omada? Omada seems quite a bit cheaper, can run the controller on my PC. Looks like TP Link is 250 for Router+AP+switch. Am I overlooking something? I will be running cameras soon on their own subnet, which is going to be the biggest consideration at this point.
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Dec 3, 2022 03:44
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Gothmog1065 posted:Any reason to buy Ubiquiti over Omada? Omada seems quite a bit cheaper, can run the controller on my PC. Looks like TP Link is 250 for Router+AP+switch. Am I overlooking something? The Unifi line has been around longer, has better support (in the sense that there is a lot of fans willing to give you support on reddit/forums, compared to Omada which is mainly a single account on the company forums) and we have a better idea of what Unifi's product life cycle looks like, compared to Omada which is too new and TP-link doesn't have the greatest history with their consumer router line. You can also run the Unifi controller on a PC. On the flip side, Omada devices are typically cheaper, and they can be configured from a web interface along with the app or controller, unlike just the app or controller for Unifi. They also have a router similar to an ER-X that does work with their controller, unlike Unifi. I'd probably go with a mix and match, depending on what you need. You can get a dumb L2 PoE switch from TP-Link for a bit cheaper than Unifi for your cameras, last I checked.
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Dec 3, 2022 04:59
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