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Thanks Ants posted:Is Mediatek the SOC to aim for when putting together an OpenWrt build? I like the look of that R4 but would like it even more if the RJ45 ports were 2.5Gb. The case options don't look brilliant either. Mediatek is what is in the official openwrt router, the one. I'm using my R4 without having the onboard RJ ports connected and I'm happy on my 2500/1000 line.
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# ? Feb 9, 2025 02:40 |
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yeah (with no small help from SlowBloke) I'm running my B4 off the SFP+ ports on a 3/3 line to a 10 gig internal fabric, and it is doing just fine I've heard I might be able to get 8/8 soon, so I'm tempted to do this upgrade, except for the full reinstall part can I just command-line (uci?) dump the config+packages and put it aside and then restore it on the new thing? I could live with that if I'm not going to be chasing un-recorded bits for weeks
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Subjunctive posted:yeah (with no small help from SlowBloke) I'm running my B4 off the SFP+ ports on a 3/3 line to a 10 gig internal fabric, and it is doing just fine There are a couple of options to have the setup migrated without major retinkering. Unless they decide to make breaking changes in the stable code tree, the patch would be in the current snapshot build (not yet deployed as of writing), not the rc one. I’ll send you a PM once they merge it.
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I have a question about my Brother HL-2170W laser printer that I have had for over a decade now. I do not know enough about network security so I am wondering if this old printer is a security risk. I have the printer plugged into my new ASUS router which is plugged into my ISP's cable model router. I never updated this printers firmware and I don't have any software for this printer installed. I just use the drivers Windows installs. I just saw a recent story about how a 3-d printer was a big security risk and it got me worried about my old printer.
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Necrosaro posted:I have a question about my Brother HL-2170W laser printer that I have had for over a decade now. I do not know enough about network security so I am wondering if this old printer is a security risk. I have the printer plugged into my new ASUS router which is plugged into my ISP's cable model router. I never updated this printers firmware and I don't have any software for this printer installed. I just use the drivers Windows installs. I just saw a recent story about how a 3-d printer was a big security risk and it got me worried about my old printer. If the article was about the bambulabs exploit it’s an entirely different scenario. As long as you don’t expose that device directly to the internet, be it over IPv4 or IPv6, you should be fine.
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in my office I have two PCs that have (or will have) SFP+ cards, a wifi AP that wants 2.5G RJ-45, and a USB dock that wants 2.5GbE. I'm expecting that I'll get another dock that wants 2.5GbE or better (why don't they make docks with SFP+ given how fast USB is now?) and I have the uplink that is RJ-45 for the time being but will be fibre to SFP+ or SFP28 or something So: RJ-45 dock (for my laptop/steam deck/random computer I'm configuring) RJ-45 work laptop something RJ-45 wifi RJ-45 mac mini (10 GbE, but moving out of office) SFP+ desktop 1 SFP+ desktop 2 RJ-45 uplink (future SFP+) ideally, I would be able to find a switch that was 8 ports, half RJ-45 multigig and half SFP+. I cannot find that switch am I going to melt a basic 8-port SFP+ switch if I put 4 RJ-45 transceivers in it? it seems like SFP+ RJ-45 transceivers run hotter than the "native" RJ-45 10Gbit the alternative is to go all RJ-45 and put RJ-45 transceivers in the desktops, using one of my CRS-305s to bridge with the uplink once it becomes fibre. maybe that's the right play?
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Qnap make some little switches with weird port quantities on them, the QSW-M2106-4S is one of them. I have no idea if their stuff is any good.
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Oddball question - I'd been using an Edgerouter-X since 2017 and the thing finally randomly hardlocked the other day. Seeing as that device at one point had logged 2+ years of uninterrupted uptime with no problems, I took that as a sign to finally toss it and upgrade to a Unifi Cloud Gateway (and partly unfuck the rat's nest of cabling). Setup and transition over to the UCG was mostly painless and I already have the vast majority of the network back to / better than before, and plans for what's left to update. The one thing I don't have an answer for yet is how to access my modem's web UI. I have Centurylink DSL with a Zyxel C3000Z modem, and the modem is in bridged passthrough, so the UCG handles PPPOE on its own. The modem does still have a web UI available at 192.168.0.1, but right now the only way I'd be able to access it would be if I physically connected another device to it and put that device in that network. None of my LANs behind the UCG are in the 192.168.0.x space. Before, on the ER-X, eth0 (the physical WAN interface) and pppoe0 were different interfaces, and I could easily set eth0 with an IP in the 192.168.0.x subnet without this impacting the WAN IP on the pppoe0 interface. Once I did that, I could pull up 192.168.0.1 from any device and see the modem's UI. Worst case scenario, I've got a spare port on the UCG and I could set it up with a port on the 192.168.0.x network, but this should be doable without consuming another physical port. I feel like I'm missing something obvious on how to set this up on the UCG since it was doable on the ERX. Any thoughts on where I should be looking?
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Subjunctive posted:in my office I have two PCs that have (or will have) SFP+ cards, a wifi AP that wants 2.5G RJ-45, and a USB dock that wants 2.5GbE. I'm expecting that I'll get another dock that wants 2.5GbE or better (why don't they make docks with SFP+ given how fast USB is now?) and I have the uplink that is RJ-45 for the time being but will be fibre to SFP+ or SFP28 or something I use a sfp+ switch along with a 2.5g POE switch (connected to the sfp+ unit) for that scenario. Your average rj45 sfp+ uses 2-3W so it shouldn't be an issue for anything but the WIFI (RJ45 optics do not have POE). QNAP makes sfp+ usb4/thunderbolt adapters if you want https://www.qnap.com/en-us/product/qna-t310g1s or https://www.qnap.com/en-us/product/qna-uc10g1sf . SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 09:03 on Jan 27, 2025 |
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SlowBloke posted:I use a sfp+ switch along with a 2.5g POE switch (connected to the sfp+ unit) for that scenario. Your average rj45 sfp+ uses 2-3W so it shouldn't be an issue for anything but the WIFI (RJ45 optics do not have POE). yeah, this current AP isn't POE, so that's OK. if/when I mount attic or ceiling APs I'll cable them off the 2.5G POE switch in the basement the QNAP stuff is interesting, thank you!
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I have a wifi 6 access point that I get about 250mbps in my living room to the office. I recently got a Wifi6E access point and I set it up to try it out to see if I get better speeds (Only 6e device is an iphone, but new computer is getting here next week). I can get a speed test sitting in the room with the access point to max out the gigabit line that's between the access point and my server that is running open speed test. However, if I move to the living room about 30 feet away and one wall away, the speed on the wifi6e speed test goes to about 25mbps. Is the wifi6e drop off really that awful or is it some other factor I am not considering?
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Turn 2.4GHz off on that AP if you can and try again
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Thanks Ants posted:Turn 2.4GHz off on that AP if you can and try again Thanks, I will try that when I get home tonight.
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If you don't want to drop 2.4 you could reduce its TX power to hopefully have devices stop preferring it over 5ghz at greater distances but it's really a mixed bag as to how effective this works.
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In the near future I'm going to have a bunch of my small condo wired for network drops in living room, 2 bedrooms and a couple ceiling drops for AP's (its a two story place). I plan on doing the terminating myself and was wondering what cabling yall like the best. My color vision isnt the best so having a cable with brightly colored strands to help differentiate them is a huge plus. I'm going Cat 6a for future proofing and I don't really see myself living here long enough to outgrow 10gbps.
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Arson Daily posted:In the near future I'm going to have a bunch of my small condo wired for network drops in living room, 2 bedrooms and a couple ceiling drops for AP's (its a two story place). I plan on doing the terminating myself and was wondering what cabling yall like the best. My color vision isnt the best so having a cable with brightly colored strands to help differentiate them is a huge plus. I'm going Cat 6a for future proofing and I don't really see myself living here long enough to outgrow 10gbps. Copper wiring has a standardized color set, no hiviz options. If you are colorblind it will get messy. This is one of the scenarios where premade fiber would make sense since it will skip the color mismatch issues.
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Having a house built and I'm asking for some external RJ45 CAT6a or CAT7 connections setup outside the house to run PoE security cameras. I think I should go for IP67 as well for added long term protection. The best I've found so far for outdoor wall outlets was IP55 CAT6. Am I overlooking any options? Overthinking this? Bonus challenge(?): Doing this in Japan
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I don't know what the standards are in Japan for modular outlets - here in the UK all data outlets are either the older LJ6C standard, the Euro module which is based on 25mm x 50mm modules and faceplates have 1, 2 or 4 spaces for them, and there's some keystone stuff as well. If I wanted an outdoor network outlet I'd be buying an IP-rated Euro module enclosure and then putting whatever I wanted into it - a Cat6, Cat6a, TV aerial etc. https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/1808517-1-gang-1-2-euro-module-empty-weatherproof-enclosure-ip56-grey If Japan is big on keystone which would make sense as they took the US power outlet standard then I'd be trying to find weatherproof keystone outlets.
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Cameras are pretty commonly connected directly. Have never seen outdoor jacks. Usually the connection is made in a weatherproof gland because the rj45 connectors are so delicate in weather.
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Subjunctive posted:am I going to melt a basic 8-port SFP+ switch if I put 4 RJ-45 transceivers in it? it seems like SFP+ RJ-45 transceivers run hotter than the "native" RJ-45 10Gbit Keep in mind that rj45 sfp runs about 2-3w in power use and fiber sfp is under 1w. So that's why they can overload a switch if you have too many of them grouped together. A high quality switch will have the extra load capacity and head dispersion capabilities. But you're talking about a basic 8 port one, so probably can't handle it long term.
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Aredna posted:Having a house built and I'm asking for some external RJ45 CAT6a or CAT7 connections setup outside the house to run PoE security cameras. For outdoor, I did everything in conduit so nothing is actually "outdoor" rated -- standard CMR from inside the house walls out to a junction box / conduit body, up conduit, into another junction box where I either terminate into a keystone jack, or a trueCABLE field-terminated plug into the device. What kind of cameras / what is their mounting base? For things like my solar gateway, I just used IP6x Amazon RJ45 connectors w/ outdoor rated cable where you make the connection and then tighten waterproof nuts/glands over that... seems to work just fine and for a residential application where it's on the ground, I don't care if I have to go fix it in 5+ years. The connector is mounted on the bottom of the box (so shouldn't get rain right on it) and I left the service loops when running the cable.
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Thanks Ants posted:Turn 2.4GHz off on that AP if you can and try again Little update: I turned off the 2.4 ghz and I could no longer see the Access Point at all from my chair. Later I checked again when I was in bed and was getting about 800 mbps through 2 walls. That's when I started thinking about it and the air conditioner return (big metal box) is in the exact middle between my chair and the access point. ![]()
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That'll do it. You're connecting to a heavily attenuated (and congested) 2.4GHz network and it's performing like poo which is expected. Is moving the AP so the angle that is 'shaded' out by the air duct an option?
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Thanks Ants posted:That'll do it. You're connecting to a heavily attenuated (and congested) 2.4GHz network and it's performing like poo which is expected. Is moving the AP so the angle that is 'shaded' out by the air duct an option? The wireless access point is a Zyxel that's POE powered. I may can pull a cable pretty easily up the inside of the wall, across the rafters, and down to where the doorbell is in the hall which will give direct line of sight to all of the living room/kitchen area.
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If it's a standalone PoE powered AP, does it support operating as part of a system with multiple APs? If so that's almost certainly going to make for better performance than playing games with positioning a single one.
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wolrah posted:If it's a standalone PoE powered AP, does it support operating as part of a system with multiple APs? If so that's almost certainly going to make for better performance than playing games with positioning a single one. If it’s relatively recent I would bet it has nebula support.
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SlowBloke posted:Copper wiring has a standardized color set, no hiviz options. If you are colorblind it will get messy. This is one of the scenarios where premade fiber would make sense since it will skip the color mismatch issues. Tell me about that, since I have no knowledge of fiber or what I'd need. Like I'd run fiber in the walls and then use some kind of fiber->rj45 connector?
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Fiber uses small form factor pluggable (SFP) transceiver modules. You can get media converters with one copper Ethernet port and one SFP port for not very much, but if you're planning to use a switch on either side I'd just get switches with SFP (for 1G) or SFP+ ports (for 10G) directly in them. Fiber comes in single mode and multimode forms, each of which has corresponding transceivers (LR and SR, respectively) so you should get them to match. Single mode tends to have longer range (2km+) and cost more, but at 300m multimode's range is more than enough for runs inside a single residence. However, you of course cannot use PoE over fiber so it's not really an option for APs.
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Arson Daily posted:Tell me about that, since I have no knowledge of fiber or what I'd need. Like I'd run fiber in the walls and then use some kind of fiber->rj45 connector? It will typically terminate in Duplex LC connectors. Two fibers per line. Teal colored for Multi-Mode, Yellow for Single-Mode. There is a modular interface in between your device, which is where the transceivers slots in. So on your device side you'll have an SFP/SFP+ port, most likely multiple via a card expansion as most desktop motherboards don't have them. You just slot the correct transceiver at each end. The benefit is that the physical fiber, once its in the walls, doesn't care what you put for hardware on each end. So you can swap out the devices, and reuse the same transceivers. You can swap out the transceivers for higher speed modules, etc. I ran OM3 so I had the option to run 40Gbps if I ever wanted to. For devices that don't have SFP ports or expansion slots, there are many common devices that have SFP ports that let you change back to common copper, and they make 1:1's but more frequently you'll see them as switch devices with many ports for distribution at the endpoint. Here is a visual of my shed, I have a SFP -> 8 GbE PoE ports, which is old, and probably overkill for both of us. ![]() Your other option, since DIY fiber terminations are not something I'd recommend, is just to borrow a friend when you run Cat6A to do the crimping.
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And depending on your electrical grounding method it's good to not have metallic paths between your house and an outbuilding other than the power cables.
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M_Gargantua posted:Your other option, since DIY fiber terminations are not something I'd recommend, is just to borrow a friend when you run Cat6A to do the crimping. Lol I think thats what I'll end up doing. Thanks for all the good info though!
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I've never seen hi-viz copper, but I have seen the opposite. The Southwire CMX Cat5 I have only has markings on the solid-color conductors. Their paired white connectors have no stripe whatsoever. Don't lose your grip while you're sorting conductors.
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I'm thinking about upgrading my current network and need some pointers on the best way to go about it. I'm currently in the process of moving so this would be a decent time to tear everything apart and redo properly. I currently have a TP Link router that I bought almost 10 years ago so it's probably way past due for an upgrade. I have three SFF PC's, a NAS, and two desktops plugged into a Gig switch. I also have a mix of 2.4 gig cameras and other random wifi devices like phones. The router and wifi are the two things I'm looking at working on first. Do I buy something like a Mikrotik router and then some WAPs to scatter around the house. It's only 1300 square feet, but the router will be on one side. Or should I look at Ubiquiti's offerings? Or just keep the router, disable the radios, and buy a mesh system? I don't need anything too complex, no multiple VLANS or POE devices. About the most complex thing I'd need is something like a guest network so that I can throw the doorbell, cameras, and other devices onto their own network isolated from the main one. I don't mind putting in the work for configuration, but something that is solid would be great since my girlfriend don't want to deal with the network being flaky.
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diremonk posted:I'm thinking about upgrading my current network and need some pointers on the best way to go about it. I'm currently in the process of moving so this would be a decent time to tear everything apart and redo properly. I currently have a TP Link router that I bought almost 10 years ago so it's probably way past due for an upgrade. I have three SFF PC's, a NAS, and two desktops plugged into a Gig switch. I also have a mix of 2.4 gig cameras and other random wifi devices like phones. I would replace the router on the basis that it’s exposed to the public internet and isn’t getting any updates ever. Any decent mesh kit would have the same performance of your current router and then some, so if you don’t need the fancy features from Unifi I would go for high end mesh in your scenario. Just verify that you can use the mesh satellites with a wired backhaul to improve radio bandwidth.
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# ? Feb 9, 2025 02:40 |
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Added a second camera to GarageNet. All this is cascaded off a single PoE+ port: Aruba AP $12 PoE switch 2x Amcrest PoE cameras Motion sensor + 3W LED floodlight Total power: 10.4W with both cameras streaming but the floodlight off. That $12 switch has utterly obnoxious LEDs. They make the whole plastic case glow; it's awful. I cut them out of mine. Inside is a Realtek 100M ethernet switch that works fine. Very low power. The Aruba AP runs OpenWrt. Its job is to extend my wifi network and break out vlans, so the camera ports get sent to iot-jail with no internet access. It's a windy, stormy night, so I might get to try out the new camera in a few hours...
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