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I'm loving my nighthawk router. Only thing I don't love is the OpenVPN server isn't compatible with Android right now. I posted this on Amazon, and someone said my "review wasn't helpful" even though Netgear's own configuration page says it doesn't work with Android. They also said it worked for them fine.
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Nov 6, 2013 16:38
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So with my most recent purchase which will be arriving today, I have gone absolutely full retard for my home network. Router: mITX Supermicro board with dual gigabit ports running pfSense Switch: 48 port gigabit Cisco 3560G Wireless: Ubiquiti AP Pro (new, replacing a WRT610n that is super temperamental) At least everything just works all the time and at excellent speeds. Too bad it cost so much loving money 
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Nov 6, 2013 18:20
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titaniumone posted:So with my most recent purchase which will be arriving today, I have gone absolutely full retard for my home network. Roughly how much, if you don't mind me asking? I've been considering almost that exact setup but with an 8 port switch instead once I can find bay trail based mini itx boards.
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Nov 7, 2013 13:07
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I have my beaglebone connected over ethernet directly into my wifi router (everything else in the house just uses wifi). I can log on to it from my desktop computer just fine over the LAN, but I want to be able to connect to the BB over the internet from my office. I got the IP for the beaglebone as seen by the internet by using $ echo `curl http://ipecho.net/plain` but when I tried to log in to username@<that IP address> over ssh from my office, it just times out with no response. What do I need to change? Is this an issue with static IP vs. DHCP? It confuses me because the BB can access the internet just fine. reading fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Nov 7, 2013 |
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Nov 7, 2013 16:46
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reading posted:I have my beaglebone connected over ethernet directly into my wifi router (everything else in the house just uses wifi). I can log on to it from my desktop computer just fine over the LAN, but I want to be able to connect to the BB over the internet from my office. I got the IP for the beaglebone as seen by the internet by using Your router is acting as a firewall so that everyone on the internet can't connect to the various equipment in your home. Additionally, it's probably providing network address translation so that your home network can use multiple IP addresses and all connect to the internet with only one address from your internet provider. What you'll need to do is use the port forwarding feature of your router and forward the SSH port (usually port 22) to the LAN address of your Beaglebone. Beware that this will make the SSH port on your Beaglebone available to everyone on the internet so use a decent password.
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Nov 7, 2013 21:38
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crm posted:I am building a house. Dalrain posted:I'm sure others can comment on the AP stuff, (I do mostly enterprise) but rather than focusing on cat6 or any cable in particular, just run conduit everywhere. If you end up wanting more network, or even to run TV cable/signals, you'll be all set. Leave a pull string inside when you do pull the wire/cat6. Definitely do this. However, I'd suggest running the latest and greatest cabling if you can, maybe Cat 6E or Cat 7 if it isn't too bad per foot by comparison. I don't know if 40GbE or 100GbE will ever be on twisted pair, but Cat 6E or 7 would be most likely to run it ten or fifteen years down the line. Don't forget to run extra lines to whatever place the telco and cable are going to be dropping their connections into your house. Pick a pretty substantial closet to put your patch panels in. Make sure it's got more than enough power and probably a dedicated 20 amp circuit on your breaker. And please, use a real label maker on both the patch panel and the individual wall sockets. Remember, twisted pair is getting to the point where almost anything can be put on top of it. HDMI, USB, analog speakers, etc. The more you run, the easier time you'll have wiring stuff up later. But conduits with plenty of pulling string are the best way to make sure you can do easy future cable pulls. I would consider running RG6U quad shielded coax to anywhere you want a TV for satellite or cable use, just in case. Run an extra few cables up to a logical place to mount a satellite dish on the roof, and a couple out to your telecom landing spot. They make patch panels for coax too. Pegboard is a great way to arrange all your routers / modems. Most places I know use a dedicated local vendor for home automation stuff. Evaluate a couple of them, the industry tends to be just as bad as anything else in construction or home repair. A big well known equipment vendor is more likely to have long term support than a little guy, and the market is incredibly fragmented still. And no matter what you do, be prepared to rip all of it out and replace it in ten or fifteen years when it eventually won't work anymore with your iPhone 15 Retinal Implant or whatever.
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Nov 7, 2013 22:42
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I like your new username, the underscore is a nice touch. If anyone is after specific updates to the OP I am willing to add stuff, or fix broken links/prices. I have some time between design work and I'm not filming this weekend. I am happy to take suggestions.
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Nov 8, 2013 01:07
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Has anyone experienced problems with Motorola Surfboard 6121 modems and Apple Airport devices? I was at a client's house today and assumed his Time Capsule was defective, but had really weird connection issues through a 4th generation Airport Extreme. Everything seems just fine running straight into the modem, but through either router resulted in erratic performance at best. Definitely not an interference issue on the wireless, since both 2.4 and 5 channels were having the same problem. I made sure nothing else was latching onto the WiFi and killing performance (changed SSID / PW). I also switched out the cat5 cable connecting the two devices, just in case. I haven't tried another brand of router because I was ran out of time today, but plan on it first thing upon arriving in the morning.
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Nov 8, 2013 02:05
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I recently moved and got faster internet. My rated speed is 50mbps which I get consistently when my computer is directly connected to my modem. I have an old wrt54gv2 with dd-wrt (v24-sp2 std) and I when I connect through that (direct connection, not wireless) i get exactly half my rated speed, so 25mbps. This is when using the same cables. Is this router just not fast enough or is something else going on? I'd like to know if it's something I can fix before I buy a new router.
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Nov 8, 2013 06:27
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Nondescript Van posted:I recently moved and got faster internet. My rated speed is 50mbps which I get consistently when my computer is directly connected to my modem. I have an old wrt54gv2 with dd-wrt (v24-sp2 std) and I when I connect through that (direct connection, not wireless) i get exactly half my rated speed, so 25mbps. This is when using the same cables. I just replaced some wrt54g gear, and they could not handle much more than 18-20mbit. I got a time capsule and my download speed more than doubled, I'm now getting the full speed I should be. Also, prior to the change, one person fully using the bandwidth completely blocked other users getting small HTTP requests through. Get a new router. 
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Nov 8, 2013 06:36
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Yeah just replaced my wrt54g yesterday. Went from 20mbps to 32-40-ish.
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Nov 8, 2013 07:00
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Mister Macys posted:The ASUS line of routers has consistently good reviews on SmallNetBuilder. I've had two different RT-N66U's now and both had the same problem: Wired connections would disconnect frequently. Appearently it's a construction fault, the cable needs to be positioned in a very delicate way or something. The store I bought it from offered me to get something else in the same price range. Any ideas? I'd like to use DD-WRT or something similar. I checked the oP but it's so old.
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Nov 8, 2013 14:46
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diehlr posted:Has anyone experienced problems with Motorola Surfboard 6121 modems and Apple Airport devices? I was at a client's house today and assumed his Time Capsule was defective, but had really weird connection issues through a 4th generation Airport Extreme. Everything seems just fine running straight into the modem, but through either router resulted in erratic performance at best. Definitely not an interference issue on the wireless, since both 2.4 and 5 channels were having the same problem. I made sure nothing else was latching onto the WiFi and killing performance (changed SSID / PW). I also switched out the cat5 cable connecting the two devices, just in case. I haven't tried another brand of router because I was ran out of time today, but plan on it first thing upon arriving in the morning. I use a 6141 without problems with the current model time capsule, and previously an early simultaneous dual band model. Don't know how different 6141 and 6121 are beyond their theoretical maximum download speed. If there is a widespread issue, I would think that config has been common enough to turn up other people with issues through some googling.
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Nov 8, 2013 14:51
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lonter posted:I've had two different RT-N66U's now and both had the same problem: Wired connections would disconnect frequently. Appearently it's a construction fault, the cable needs to be positioned in a very delicate way or something. I bought the Linksys EA6300 for about $15-20 less than the N66. Apparently some of them are actually EA6400 AC1600s, not AC1200. I got one of those.  I have no complaints so far using stock firmware , and it allows you to rollback too, if you want.
Mister Facetious fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Nov 9, 2013 |
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Nov 9, 2013 03:22
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MF_James posted:So, it's only wireless devices, have you stood next to the router with the same results? Does your PC have a wireless card that you could enable, removing the ethernet cable and using the wireless to test on the PC and see if it has the same problems? I managed to fix it by disabling WMM and QoS, although I don't know if that will have future repercussions. I don't know why i didn't outright disable them as part of my troubleshooting to begin with. I thought WMM was specifically designed to fix exactly this scenario? I'm not sure why things suddenly degraded since the settings never changed for about 18 months? For the sake of thoroughness, I did test in very close proximity to the router with no changes, and did not have a wireless card on my desktop to test with.
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Nov 9, 2013 05:14
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Finally got my  The HP N54L is running ESXi btw. I'm still trying to decide what else I want to throw on it. Probably going to setup FreeNAS tomorrow.
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Nov 10, 2013 11:15
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What's the best router I can get for around $80 or so? The OP is fairly out of date and there are so many options. New or used doesn't really matter. I just need it to be fast enough to at least match my internet speed.
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Nov 10, 2013 19:16
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Nondescript Van posted:What's the best router I can get for around $80 or so? The OP is fairly out of date and there are so many options. New or used doesn't really matter. I just need it to be fast enough to at least match my internet speed. ASUS RT-N16
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Nov 10, 2013 21:03
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UndyingShadow posted:ASUS RT-N16 cool. looks like a good choice. thanks.
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Nov 10, 2013 21:19
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My 5 year old router is slowly dying netflix, my iphone and other wifi devices(friends ipad/phones etc) drop connection on a regular basis. I bought it at I think Frys or Bestbuy for like 30 bux and it has never given me any problems until. Was I just lucky? Everyone in here seems to buying expensive routers and using all this terminology I don't understand. Is it a bad idea to just to do same thing again and buy a cheap router or should I upgrade.
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Nov 11, 2013 16:23
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Quick question: connecting a switch should look like Modem -> router -> switch And all available ports on the switch and router should be able to feed any wired device?
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Nov 11, 2013 18:41
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ray_finkle_himself posted:Quick question: connecting a switch should look like Yes, modem plugs into WAN port on router. Switch plugs into any of the LAN ports on router. All remaining ports on router (probably 3 out of 4) and all remaining ports on switch (probably 7 out of 8) will provide internet and local connectivity.
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Nov 11, 2013 18:49
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VorpalFish posted:Roughly how much, if you don't mind me asking? I've been considering almost that exact setup but with an 8 port switch instead once I can find bay trail based mini itx boards. UAP Pro was around $220, pfSense system was around $250:
You really don't need anything special for the router system. I have 150/10 internet and this handles it without any issues, ever.
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Nov 12, 2013 02:22
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Gordian posted:Finally got my Cool system setup! Man I wish I have some of your technical know how. How do you set up security onion? Is it under another VM in your HP 54L? Oh and since you want recommendations, I suggest xbmc/plex/subsonic media centre. I just googled on security onion, it seems to be interesting. Do you have any guides on basic networking security? Some goon helped me out on setting a Ubiquiti basic zone firewall. Using command line interface is fun, but setting up a Intrusion detection system seems fun
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Nov 12, 2013 04:37
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So I just moved into a new place with four roommates and I'm trying to figure out how to fix our internet. We have a U-verse home gateway (3800HGV-B) and theoretically pay for 30 Mbp/s down. The house has Cat5e run to every room but it's all connected through a scary looking board that also does the phones and the security system. I don't know how that was supposed to work but as best I can tell it doesn't. Instead we're using the built in wifi broadcast from the gateway. Here's the issue. The gateway only broadcasts in b/g (it can't even do n) and the strength is awful in my room (I get maybe 1 Mbps down). Using it to do anything (stream, download something, etc) skyrockets my ping just to the device from the already lovely 50-60 up to 600-1200. I have an old-ish Netgear WN311B wireless adapter that I'm replacing with a USB one because it causes audio clicks. I had an old Belkin f5d8236-4 v2 n router at home that had been retired that I tried as both as a wireless bridge and an extender. As a bridge it works okay (I'm up to 10 Mbps down with no skyrocketing ping when actually using the connection) but there's some kind of known firmware bug where it has frequent fits of failing to resolve DNS addresses. Basically I'll just get the "resolving host" in the bottom left and then eventually "Oops! Google Chrome could not connect to https://www.newegg.com. Try reloading the page" If I navigate to the page's actual IP it loads fine. I manually changed the router to use google's DNS servers instead of pulling them from the gateway, but it made no difference. When I tried to use the router as an extender, there was 300ms of latency between it and the gateway for no discernible reason. Turning the gateway's wireless broadcast on or off seemed to make no difference. So I guess I've got two options: 1) new, better router as a bridge 2) drop the bridge and get a wireless repeater Option 1) is a lot more expensive but I'd think I'd get better speed and 5 people using it at once will be less likely to overwhelm it. Option 2) is cheap but it'll still be a b/g connection and at the mercy of whatever lovely chipset is in the residential gateway. Thoughts? What are the chances I'll still have garbage reception even with a much better router? There are a fair amount of networks in the area but none in the 5 Ghz range so maybe a dual band? How much am I going to have to spend? inSSIDer says my signal strength from the crappy belkin is -73dB. The USB adapter I bought has a single 4dB antenna, which is probably about equivalent to the netgear I have now. The house is relatively new so I guess I could also go through the power outlets?
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Nov 14, 2013 02:30
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Probably the scary looking board has a patch panel that you need to plug the LAN connections from the Uverse gateway into. If you can't figure it out get a nerd you know to do it. It will be way better than dicking around with wireless. Also you can get your own router and use it with the Uverse dealie, but when I had it you had to put the Uverse box in "DMZ+" mode and it was kind of annoying.
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Nov 14, 2013 03:19
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At present my home modem is the Arris TG862G. It's part of the TWC Extreme package or whatever it's called. It also doubles as our router. Works relatively fine, especially when wired in. Thing is I can't help but feel it should broadcast a stronger wireless signal. There's no metal or cinderblock walls in the 15' between my usual spot and the router. There are two wooden walls, at least. I've elevated it at about 9' above my usual position. Does this modem just not have a good router? Should I invest in a standalone router? Anything I can do to help with the signal in the Arris at least?
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Nov 14, 2013 03:51
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Abel Wingnut posted:At present my home modem is the Arris TG862G. It's part of the TWC Extreme package or whatever it's called. It also doubles as our router. Works relatively fine, especially when wired in. Thing is I can't help but feel it should broadcast a stronger wireless signal. There's no metal or cinderblock walls in the 15' between my usual spot and the router. There are two wooden walls, at least. I've elevated it at about 9' above my usual position. Those Arris units have the shittiest wifi antennas on the planet. Honestly as a router they seem pretty solid from what I've seen (though I haven't tried doing even basic stuff like port forwarding) but yeah, you need an external WAP.
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Nov 14, 2013 04:34
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Dogen posted:Probably the scary looking board has a patch panel that you need to plug the LAN connections from the Uverse gateway into. If you can't figure it out get a nerd you know to do it. It will be way better than dicking around with wireless. Also you can get your own router and use it with the Uverse dealie, but when I had it you had to put the Uverse box in "DMZ+" mode and it was kind of annoying. Well it looks like this.  The phone is routed into it from this thing  gently caress if I know what to do with it. And yes you have to DMZ the router you're using as a bridge but the setup wasn't that bad. I'd love to use the house's wired connections but I don't even know where to begin with that board. It's an Ademco vista 20p apparently, and is clearly designed for the security system. I have no idea why all the cat5 and phone jacks are routed into itbut I am pretty sure its the only board like that in the house.
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Nov 14, 2013 05:33
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Those wires aren't Cat5, that's wiring running to alarm sensors in your house. The phone connection isn't where it "comes in", those Ademco alarms are designed to phone a monitoring station if it goes off. In other words, there should be nothing to do with any network and/or phone cabling around your house in that box.
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Nov 14, 2013 05:35
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Well poo poo, ideas on where the switch that all the jacks in the rooms are wired into? The tech who installed that board penciled in corresponding rooms on the back of the box (including ones that I know have no alarm sensors) like I've seen techs do for boards wired for phones. The only place I think I haven't checked is the attic. e: I unscrewed a jack to look at the cable behind it - you're right, they're a totally different diameter than what goes into that board. I don't know where the hell they terminate. tehllama fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 05:41
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I'm running a TP-Link WR340G router that supplies half of the house via cat5 ethernet, and an ASUS RT-N12 set to access point as a wireless booster for upstairs. Today, I reset both to factory settings, re-entered the same details, but changed the password and SSID. The wireless has adopted the new SSID stuff fine, but when I connect the two downstairs PC on the wired connection, it's still reading under the old network name, and neither myself nor Google can figure out why this is. I've reset the router again, and rebooted, and it still seems to be reading as two seperate connections with two names out of the same router. Any ideas why it's doing this? Edit: Never mind, semi-resolved. It's not a router setting problem, it's just Windows 8 being a butt. Brain In A Jar fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 06:30
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Can you guys recommend me a decent small-business grade wireless router or AP? The Asus NT-12 (running DD-WRT) that I've been using worked fine when my girlfriend and I were on our own, but after taking on roommates the router's seeing double the number of wireless devices and it's unable to keep up. Overheating issues once or twice a week are common enough and so I'm looking to get something in place that'll be more robust. I've got an HP ProCurve MSM310 WAP that I'm going to try out, but it only goes up to 802.11g and I'd prefer something (much cheaper) with n. I'm not against paying a bit more for something that can handle the load of ~10 wireless devices.
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Nov 14, 2013 17:49
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Karthe posted:Can you guys recommend me a decent small-business grade wireless router or AP? The Asus NT-12 (running DD-WRT) that I've been using worked fine when my girlfriend and I were on our own, but after taking on roommates the router's seeing double the number of wireless devices and it's unable to keep up. Overheating issues once or twice a week are common enough and so I'm looking to get something in place that'll be more robust. I've got an HP ProCurve MSM310 WAP that I'm going to try out, but it only goes up to 802.11g and I'd prefer something (much cheaper) with n. I'm not against paying a bit more for something that can handle the load of ~10 wireless devices. I just posted about getting a Ubuiquiti AP Pro. It owns. $230 here.
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Nov 14, 2013 18:53
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titaniumone posted:I just posted about getting a Ubuiquiti AP Pro. It owns. $230 here.
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Nov 14, 2013 20:03
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So my Thomson TG782SHIT died yesterday. Not the worst I've ever had but not the best either. Wireless coverage was almost adequate (backyard had blackspots) but it was free when I changed provider so  Anyhow reading the OP I see the wisdom behind multiple dedicated devices but also see that it was last updated 12 months ago (in two days time anyhow). So I was looking at either of these: http://www.centrecom.com.au/netgear-dgnd3700-n600-dual-band-wireless-gigabit-adsl2-modem-router http://www.centrecom.com.au/netgear-wndr3700-rangemax-dualband-wireless-n-gigabit-router Is the combo=crap advice still pertinent? (first link includes modem, second doesn't). The second part to my question is then if I get a router sans modem, any recommendations on a decent ADSL 2+ modem or is it a case of anything is fine these days? eg. Any particular chipset to grab? I'm currently on an old as poo poo modem (Speed Stream 4200) I knew I had lying around in storage. It surprised me when I found out it was actually an ADSL 2+ modem.
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Nov 18, 2013 11:52
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hambeet posted:Is the combo=crap advice still pertinent? Yes, don't get a combo device. If your Speedstream 4200 works, then there's really no reason to replace it. Put that money towards a new router instead. My WNDR3700 has been fine as a dual-band AP, but I didn't use it much as a router. I've seen many recommendations in this thread for the ASUS RT-N16 for 2.4GHz, and RT-N66U for dual band 2.4/5GHz, for what it's worth.
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Nov 18, 2013 15:24
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I had to run some (5 runs) cat6 parallel to power for about 25' in my finished basement ceiling. There's 2-4" of separation. Is there anything easy-ish I can do to cut down on interference or should I not worry about it?
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Nov 18, 2013 15:43
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I have Charter Internet I have a Motorola Surfboard SB5101 modem I have a Linksys WRT400N router. It has standard firmware because DD-WRT was bugging the gently caress out for me. I have a desktop computer on a wired connection and a laptop on a wireless connection, both within 10 feet of the router. These work perfectly most of the time. I share my connection with someone in a studio behind my house. They use a laptop wirelessly, as well as a wireless HP printer. They are probably... no more than 40 or 50 feet away, but through a couple of walls and a couple of appliances (fridge, oven) that could get in the way of the signal. This person has sporadic connection issues, to the extent that sending an e-mail with a photo attachment will time out 50% of the time. They also claim that their wireless connection works just fine in other locations, leading me to suspect signal issues rather than hardware issues. I'm looking for a way to improve the connection for the person in the studio. 1) The person in the back has offered to throw money at the problem by way of purchasing a new modem. Would that be likely to help, and if so, what modem should I look for? I see a recommendation for a SB6141, but I'm open to suggestions. We have already replaced the router after past issues. Even if the modem wouldn't solve the issue, would it be worth updating from the old hardware? 2) The person in the back has also offered the idea of running a cable and setting up their own router. I believe I'm correct in saying that it'd be the same effect to just run a cable from my router to their computer (they could still use their printer wirelessly) and not require another router. 3) The way I see it, the simplest solution -- if it works -- would be to run a network cable from my router to their desk to plug in the computer when it's there, leaving their wireless connection open to the printer. 4) Another possible solution would be to run some kind of wireless repeater, but that seems a bit overkill for the relatively short distance.
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Nov 18, 2013 23:25
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mcsuede posted:I had to run some (5 runs) cat6 parallel to power for about 25' in my finished basement ceiling. There's 2-4" of separation. Is there anything easy-ish I can do to cut down on interference or should I not worry about it? Cat 6 for 25 feet and its 4 inches away? Maybe if it was directly wound around the wire for 200 feet I'd worry about it...
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Nov 19, 2013 00:42
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