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It's been about a year since I started searching for a product that can do a simple thing on my home network and I still have not found it. There is a market need for a router that can set per device data limits to avoid ISP data overages. I get 10GB per month on my satellite internet and my kids would gladly use every bit of it in one day watching "what does the fox say" over and over on youtube in HD on their Kindle, or phone, if I let them. The device should basically be like a skydog router with content filtering and device management with the addition of protecting you from data overages. ISP's already do this, but the hardware does not exist on the consumer level. The device should be open source and embrace and encourage community created firmwares that provide enhanced functionality. I would gladly contribute to a kick-starter that was working on this device. Surely I'm not the only person that would buy this?
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Jan 21, 2014 08:15
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Check out pfSense, you should be able to set up something like that pretty easily. http://pfsense.org http://pfsensesetup.com/bandwidth-limiting-with-the-pfsense-limiter/ https://forum.pfsense.org/index.php?topic=22598.0 You could also just outright block bandwidth hogging sites like YouTube. Either use an old computer and get an extra NIC for it or get something like this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16856205007
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Jan 21, 2014 14:05
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My ISP goes quota-free from 2am-8am every night and I would like to use my DD-WRT router to help shift downloads to this time period. I already use a schedule for SAB and torrents but my PS4 has no such functionality. Is it possible to throttle a specific ip until a certain time? I don't mind doing this manually since downloading content is pretty rare.
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Jan 21, 2014 17:10
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I just picked up an Apple Airport Extreme 6th gen and I love it. Took 4 minutes to configure and I haven't thought about it since. It doesn't do anything super fancy but it's rock solid for what I need it to do.
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Jan 21, 2014 17:10
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Welp, sounds like a good time to add this to the OP: Airport Extreme Base Station, 6th Generation Broadcom BCM53019 SoC with dual-core A9 processor @ 1.1 GHz, 512 MB RAM, 128 MB flash, simultaneous dual band radio, Gigabit Ethernet, supports beamforming Supports file / print sharing, HFS+ and FAT32 formatted media on USB 2.0 port **NOT DD-WRT OR TOMATO COMPATIBLE** Binary Badger fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Jan 21, 2014 |
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Jan 21, 2014 19:14
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Make sure to mention though that to set up an AirPort, an OS X or iOS device is required. I don't know how many people would be buying one w/o owning any other Apple devices, but just in case there are some, it's something to note.
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Jan 21, 2014 19:35
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No it isn't. There is an airport utility for windows.
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Jan 21, 2014 19:43
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Dogen posted:No it isn't. There is an airport utility for windows. The new Airports are not listed as compatible with the Windows utility Windows Airport Utility was last updated June 2012 for the AE5G dual-band N stuff
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Jan 21, 2014 19:46
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Dogen posted:No it isn't. There is an airport utility for windows. Which hasn't been updated since 2012 and does not work with the new models.
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Jan 21, 2014 19:47
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TheQat posted:The new Airports are not listed as compatible with the Windows utility The guy who reviewed the Airport Extreme 6th Generation (802.11ac) for SmallNetBuilder said he used Airport Utility for Windows v.5.6.1 with no difficulties.
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Jan 21, 2014 19:51
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Binary Badger posted:The guy who reviewed the Airport Extreme 6th Generation (802.11ac) for SmallNetBuilder said he used Airport Utility for Windows v.5.6.1 with no difficulties. That's good then
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Jan 21, 2014 19:59
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I had no issues using the 5.6.1 Airport utility on my Windows 7 laptop. If you're looking at an AEBS and don't need AC connectivity the 5th gen is a steal at 85 bucks right now. I was going to get the 5th gen but I'm in impatient bastard and didn't want to wait for it to come in. I had 150 in Amazon gift cards so it only set me back 60 bucks out of pocket and had it shipped 1 day.
skipdogg fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Jan 21, 2014 |
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Jan 21, 2014 20:06
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If you're setting up a large house (3 floors) for wifi / lan connectivitiy (most rooms have cat6e drops) what hardware do you use for routers, APs and switches (need ~24 ports)? What's your "reasonable dream" hardware deployment? Internet access probably provided by Time Warner.
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Jan 21, 2014 20:39
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crm posted:If you're setting up a large house (3 floors) for wifi / lan connectivitiy (most rooms have cat6e drops) what hardware do you use for routers, APs and switches (need ~24 ports)? 3750G-24TS, Powerconnect 5324, or 1810-24G, depending on your actual needs for management, fan noise, et al. Ubiquiti wifi. Juniper router.
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Jan 21, 2014 20:41
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evol262 posted:Juniper router. Any specific Juniper router?
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Jan 21, 2014 20:43
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I picked up a junky little pc that was sitting unused in a relative's basement and I think I'll probably just set it up and permanently attach it to my TV. The TV is in a room that would be impractical to run cables to from the nearest router, so wifi seems like the right way to go. The new PC has an empty PCI-Ex1 slot, or I can use some USB device. The ISP provided appliance is a Pace 4111N I probably don't need especially good speeds for anything, since we're not really streaming movies or anything, I'll probably just be using it to play old video games and browse occasionally. Given that, does a recommendation from a couple pages ago of http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Centrino-Advanced-Brackets-62205ANHMWDTX1/dp/B007ZWL4A6/ still make sense? That seems like it'd be great but quite possibly overkill for me. Is there anything recommended in a lower price and performance category?
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Jan 21, 2014 22:02
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I'm trying to extend my wireless network out to an outbuilding, about 220 feet (clear line of sight) from the house. Reading the OP and some of the thread "Get a Ubiquiti" is pretty much the unanimous answer. Like this Nanostation. Unfortunately they require a wired connection, I was hoping to put something more like a wireless bridge/repeater in place. The problem is that the window facing the outbuilding is pretty much on the opposite side of the house from my network drop and router and on a different floor. I'd rather not have to run 80-100 feet of cable to the nanostation. What are my options here? I could grab another router and use it as a wireless bridge to wire into the nanostation, which goes to another nanostation in the outbuilding. At that point it seems like I should just get two routers to turn into bridges and buy/build antennas for them. Or nut up and run the cable. Any other ideas? Advice? Some illustration: 
Arrath fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Jan 21, 2014 |
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Jan 21, 2014 23:01
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e.pie posted:Check out pfSense, you should be able to set up something like that pretty easily. Thanks for your reply but it does not fit the bill: https://forum.pfsense.org/index.php/topic,69560.msg380279.html#msg380279 jimp, Administrator says: "No, there is not currently any way to do that." I am not looking for QOS or traffic shaping, or vanilla per device bandwith limiting. There are plenty of products that can do that. What I need is something that can measure data used per device, by day, and uses configurable limits to implement bandwith limiting rules, and limiting a device to 5mb per second is not going to slow it down enough. This is exactly what every ISP in the country is doing but I cannot figure out. Citycop fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Jan 21, 2014 |
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Jan 21, 2014 23:05
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Citycop posted:I am not looking for QOS or traffic shaping, or vanilla per device bandwith limiting. There are plenty of products that can do that. What I need is something that can measure data used per device, by day, and uses configurable limits to implement bandwith limiting rules, and limiting a device to 5mb per second is not going to slow it down enough. This is exactly what every ISP in the country is doing but I cannot figure out. It isn't simple, and it's not simple for ISPs either, but it's possible with the tools you have available, which are the same tools they use. E: crm posted:Any specific Juniper router? Pick one. It's your dreamboat network setup.
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Jan 21, 2014 23:21
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Arrath posted:I'm trying to extend my wireless network out to an outbuilding, about 220 feet (clear line of sight) from the house. Reading the OP and some of the thread "Get a Ubiquiti" is pretty much the unanimous answer. Like this Nanostation. Unfortunately they require a wired connection, I was hoping to put something more like a wireless bridge/repeater in place. The problem is that the window facing the outbuilding is pretty much on the opposite side of the house from my network drop and router and on a different floor. I'd rather not have to run 80-100 feet of cable to the nanostation. If you don't mind throwing money at the problem there are those powerline adapters you could run from the router to the ubiqiti, they essentially act like wired connections except through a power outlet. Otherwise your secondary idea might be good with just routers and custom antennas for a long bridge, though there could be more poo poo you have to fiddle with so it's likely to take longer to get running than the other stuff out of the box.
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Jan 22, 2014 00:41
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Rexxed posted:If you don't mind throwing money at the problem there are those powerline adapters you could run from the router to the ubiqiti, they essentially act like wired connections except through a power outlet. Otherwise your secondary idea might be good with just routers and custom antennas for a long bridge, though there could be more poo poo you have to fiddle with so it's likely to take longer to get running than the other stuff out of the box. I hadn't even thought about powerline adapters. I'll look into that, thanks.
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Jan 22, 2014 01:45
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Since the OP's outdated, what routers are currently considered the best, especially in the under $100 category?
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Jan 22, 2014 01:59
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Farecoal posted:Since the OP's outdated, what routers are currently considered the best, especially in the under $100 category? What features are you looking for? Options can range from a 30 dollar Belkin with 3rd party firmware to the 200 dollar Netgear Nighthawk mega router or even more if you want
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Jan 22, 2014 02:03
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skipdogg posted:What features are you looking for? Options can range from a 30 dollar Belkin with 3rd party firmware to the 200 dollar Netgear Nighthawk mega router or even more if you want Just something with a strong signal strength, I don't really care about anything else.
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Jan 22, 2014 02:55
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Farecoal posted:Just something with a strong signal strength, I don't really care about anything else. Last generation Airport Extreme for $85 if you don't want to tinker with it. Ever.
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Jan 22, 2014 04:08
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evol262 posted:This is done with dynamic traffic shaping and QoS. Those are exactly what you're looking for, you just don't know it. The difference is that large networks either funnel it through a transparent proxy (corporate networks) or tally packet data and adjust shaping rules on the fly, and this is exactly what you could do by dumping traffic data from rrdtool to an external box (because pfsense isn't terribly reliable with this) and setting rules in a script which runs and monitors the logfile, runs from cron every few minutes, or whatever, then configures pfsense rules with Mechanize or over the shell. Ok... well thanks for informing me. I don't think I'll ever be able to tackle this.
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Jan 22, 2014 14:48
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Hello, Very specific question here. Using the built in openVPN server in the latest official firmware for the asus RT-N66u wifi router. I set it up using the basic default settings for openVPN, download the client.ovpn file to my android phone with the openvpn app installed, load the app, import the opvn client file and enter the user name and password. Then it prompts for a certificate file. I tried exporting the cert from the asus openvpn page using copy and paste but it doesnt seem to be working. Maybe I'm doing that part wrong, any ideas? The gui says the ovpn file will include the cert. Can't seem to find any info for the official openvpn server from asus just third party firmwares that add it separately. Thanks
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Jan 22, 2014 23:38
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Crossposting from the short questions thread, this is probably the better place. So the router at my current place is ridiculously unstable and the wireless traffic is terrible around here; it's also two floors down. This would be less of a problem if I weren't using the connection to pass files among my computers, as well as using VNC and Remote Desktop regularly. I want to use the router I own for all the stuff in my room, hooking up everything with Ethernet (where possible) to simplify filesharing, and be able to use a more stable N-only setup for stuff that I use wirelessly. I use my phone to control my HTPC, so doing this means I can control all my computers and share files without the connection getting in my way. My own router is a Cisco E4200v2, which doesn't support WDS and doesn't have any custom firmware options available. The router downstairs is a 'Bell Connection Hub', and it's not mine so I'm hesitant about poking it too much. What I want to do is set up an old broken laptop I have (with a more reliable connection than my main machine), use it to connect to the wifi downstairs, and set my E4200 to bridge mode hooked up to the ICS/bridging laptop. Everything in my room that I own goes through the E4200, and the laptop serves as a 24/7 torrent machine/Starbound server. I've never done this before, so I have no idea what'll happen. My fear is that all the traffic I'm trying to keep to my more reliable local router is instead just all going to go through the poor Acer junker and then come back - that or I'll have to port-forward everything twice, or I'll have IP address conflicts, or something. Am I fine just setting up ICS on the laptop, putting my router in Bridge mode, and running away with it? Or is this just going to make everything slower as it goes through a router, a laptop, and then another router both ways? To make things more clear, I added a picture. I shouldn't need to set up port forwarding on anything but the downstairs router, and nothing should be going past the good router unless it needs to access files from the old laptop, or needs to access the internet.  I think what I can do is DMZ the old laptop's IP on the downstairs router to avoid it interfering with the port forwarding on the upstairs router - letting me port forward using my own router, rather than having to do it twice. But then won't the firewall on the old laptop interfere? I don't wanna turn off the old laptop's firewall, since I plan to use it to host Starbound. (Again, this is all guesses; I've never done any network this complex before.)
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Jan 23, 2014 03:24
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nvm
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Jan 23, 2014 04:02
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Housh posted:Anyone have luck installing Shibbys Tomato on a N66U over the web ui? I'm running OSX and want to know if it is possible before setting up a bootcamp to do this. I used the Windows utility, but I saw a reference somewhere to flashing DD-WRT first for some reason. E; Ah, here it is: http://tomatousb.org/forum/t-513938
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Jan 23, 2014 17:33
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Does anyone know if it's a potential problem to have my 2.4 and 5GHz networks named the same thing with the same password?Skeleton Ape posted:I bought a RT-N66U about a week ago and have had nothing but problems so far. Just looking for a quick sanity check before I return it. That's worrying because I was seeing some video stuttering on a Chromecast* the other day that sounds like it could be the same issue. I'll have to do some sustained file download tests over wireless, I guess. *that's the only thing I even semi-regularly use wirelessly that needs sustained high-bandwidth wireless to work right.
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Jan 23, 2014 17:41
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Munkeymon posted:Does anyone know if it's a potential problem to have my 2.4 and 5GHz networks named the same thing with the same password?]
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Jan 23, 2014 18:22
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I've seen Ubuntu with Intel wifi not understand apple airport 2.4 & 5ghz networks with same SSID, Windows was fine though.
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Jan 23, 2014 21:19
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skipdogg posted:What features are you looking for? Options can range from a 30 dollar Belkin with 3rd party firmware to the 200 dollar Netgear Nighthawk mega router or even more if you want I'm in the same market, $100 or less-ish. I'd like to be able to put DD-WRT or Tomato on it, good signal, decent RAM, lots of supported connections for torrents/etc, (I guess this is probably a firmware feature, but I imagine CPU/RAM have something to do with the upper limit). From the OP what seems to fit the bill best is the ASUS RT-N16, but if that's outdated, I don't know. All I know is my WRT-54GL is a piece of poo poo now, and I want a decent router.
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Jan 24, 2014 06:30
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Queen Fiona posted:Crossposting from the short questions thread, this is probably the better place. Good router should plug into old router. Forget the laptop as a bridge, just put it inside your good routers network. You can then just bridge good router to old router so you don't have to deal with double NAT. You'd probably want to set good router to some high static IP range that the Bell router gives out, and then just do DHCP passthrough from good router to old router (which is what bridged mode will do). I have a similar setup at home right now. Rogers modem -> Router 1 -> Router 2 (Wireless AP). Router 1 has 4 devices plugged into it, Router 2 has 3 devices and it does the wireless in my house.
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Jan 24, 2014 16:38
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more falafel please posted:I'm in the same market, $100 or less-ish. I'd like to be able to put DD-WRT or Tomato on it, good signal, decent RAM, lots of supported connections for torrents/etc, (I guess this is probably a firmware feature, but I imagine CPU/RAM have something to do with the upper limit). From the OP what seems to fit the bill best is the ASUS RT-N16, but if that's outdated, I don't know. The RT-N16 is still a very good single band router. It's only going to do 2.4Ghz 300Mbps though. If you want a dual band router the RT-N66U is pretty solid these days. 256MB RAM and 32MB Flash on that bad boy. Some Linksys routers might still fit the bill, no personal experience with them, but the E3200 or E4200 might work, looking at prices on Amazon though I would just spend a few extra bucks and get the ASUS. On another note, I had a need for a non wireless connection and I really didn't want to climb my fat rear end up into the attic and run an Ethernet connection through 18 inches of blown-in insulation. I picked up a 40 dollar set of power line networking do-dads and I have a rock solid connection that was setup in less than 60 seconds. I have a newer house with good wiring but these things are pretty awesome to be honest. skipdogg fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Jan 25, 2014 |
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Jan 25, 2014 03:35
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skipdogg posted:On another note, I had a need for a non wireless connection and I really didn't want to climb my fat rear end up into the attic and run an Ethernet connection through 18 inches of blown-in insulation. I picked up a 40 dollar set of power line networking do-dads and I have a rock solid connection that was setup in less than 60 seconds. I have a newer house with good wiring but these things are pretty awesome to be honest. This seems like a good option. I was reading about Ethernet over coax recently too and that seems to have come a long way if you're lucky enough to have coax in the walls already but not Ethernet.
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Jan 25, 2014 19:45
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I have a support question that isn't large enough to warrant its own thread. I recently purchased a new USB wireless adapter to replace one that broke. It works fine but my PC recognizes the connection as "Wireless Network Connection 2." I tried renaming it to "1" but it forbids me because apparently the other network connection, the one used by the old USB adapter, still exists. How the hell do I delete it? Its not anywhere in the Network and Sharing Center in my Control Panel. I tried reinstalling the driver for my old adapter to see if I could disable it and that simply created a Wireless Network Connection 3! This is using Windows 7 BTW.
Shimrra Jamaane fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Jan 25, 2014 |
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Jan 25, 2014 21:44
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Shimrra Jamaane posted:I have a support question that isn't large enough to warrant its own thread. I recently purchased a new USB wireless adapter to replace one that broke. It works fine but my PC recognizes the connection as "Wireless Network Connection 2." I tried renaming it to "1" but it forbids me because apparently the other network connection, the one used by the old USB adapter, still exists. How the hell do I delete it? Its not anywhere in the Network and Sharing Center in my Control Panel. I tried reinstalling the driver for my old adapter to see if I could disable it and that simply created a Wireless Network Connection 3! This is using Windows 7 BTW. Windows remembers the previous network adapters. To remove them, from an elevated command prompt, run the commands "set devmgr_show_nonpresent_devices=1" and then "devmgmt.msc" to bring up Device Manager, then View -> Show Hidden Devices and delete the old ones.
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Jan 25, 2014 22:25
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GokieKS posted:Windows remembers the previous network adapters. To remove them, from an elevated command prompt, run the commands "set devmgr_show_nonpresent_devices=1" and then "devmgmt.msc" to bring up Device Manager, then View -> Show Hidden Devices and delete the old ones. What will the old ones show up as? Will they be labeled as the hidden Wireless Networks or will it be something else? Are they the ISATAP 6 adapters? Shimrra Jamaane fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Jan 25, 2014 |
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Jan 25, 2014 22:28
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