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KARMA! posted:Ive got a few lengths of cat5e running through the house, but they're a little short. Can I pop off the connector and graft a length of cable on the end, or is it better to use inline couplers? If you really want to do it properly, either A> Replace it with the correct length, or B> put in a keystone jack. If you're not wanting to do either, use a coupler. You don't wan to be grafting anything together as you'll probably cause some bad signal loss. E: the first is assuming the lengths are running along walls or something. If you're just wanting longer patch cables, make them the correct length. If you don't have the tools/knowledge, just buy the cable from monoprice. the 100ft cables are 12 bucks. Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Aug 25, 2015 |
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Aug 25, 2015 14:33
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There are 14 cables cables are 100+ feet long and run through mostly system ceiling in an unknown way, passing through a bunch of fireproofed drywall. Redoing any of that is a loving nightmare, which means replacing them is the absolute last option. They do mostly end in wall mounted jacks, but I was trying to see if there was a way I could avoid having cable come out from the ceiling, ending in a wall mount, and going back up in the ceiling again. Those keystone jacks seems to be what I'm looking for. The plan was to create the extra cable ends from a spool, so that part of the plan's accounted for. Hmm, maybe I can liberate the keystones from the wall mounted ones? That would be ace... Thanks for the help!
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Aug 25, 2015 15:50
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KARMA! posted:Ive got a few lengths of cat5e running through the house, but they're a little short. Can I pop off the connector and graft a length of cable on the end, or is it better to use inline couplers? I would use a coupler.
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Aug 25, 2015 16:10
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KARMA! posted:Hmm, maybe I can liberate the keystones from the wall mounted ones? That would be ace... I used these all over my house, worked great: Surface Mount Keystone
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Aug 26, 2015 07:59
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You realized you linked to a two conductor RJ-11 jack, right?
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Aug 26, 2015 14:34
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Tapedump posted:You realized you linked to a two conductor RJ-11 jack, right? He could be my coworker, loves running ethernet over old cat3 drops.
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Aug 26, 2015 16:33
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Moey posted:He could be my coworker, loves running ethernet over old cat3 drops. Yeah that is not going to work at all. The twisted pairs are broken in those things. Even if you found one that was RJ45.. dont get those
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Aug 26, 2015 16:52
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Asus RT-AC56U is on sale at Frys for 79.99. I got Amazon to price match it for me. My first one also has been randomly cutting off network access (wired and wireless). It started about a month ago when it was 2mo old. I am not sure what the issue is. Asus' website also basically says return to retailer for warranty, and Amazon honored that, too.
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Aug 26, 2015 19:32
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emocrat posted:I own my own cable modem and it currently connects to a 5th generation Airport Extreme. Buy an Airport Express and let it extend the network. Apple products do a good job of that. I'd try that before dropping any serious money on building in a whole house wireless network.
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Aug 26, 2015 22:47
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CuddleChunks posted:Buy an Airport Express and let it extend the network. Apple products do a good job of that. I'd try that before dropping any serious money on building in a whole house wireless network. Agreed. Even before that though, if you're able to place the Airport Extreme in/near the geometric center of the house (x/y/z axes), do that. Then do a coverage check. Unless your house is low and long, or has a lot of RF blocking construction materials, you may luck out on coverage.
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Aug 26, 2015 22:54
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Thanks for the tips. Ill try repositioning and then extending.
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Aug 27, 2015 18:13
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emocrat posted:I don't know much about wireless networking and am looking for some advice here. I'm in a similar situation but have a Netgear WNDR3700. I nerded out when I set it up a few years ago at our old house and am using the the feature that allows for three wireless networks (1 for N, 1 for G, the other is the guest network). The router is set up at the front of the house, so when I am at the back of the house wireless coverage is very spotty. How would I go about extending the N and G range and maintain the same wireless name and PW? If it helps, I have cat6 drops everywhere in the house so adding some sort of AP via wire will be no problem. Edit: Made a mistake, the wirelss is set up one as 5ghz, one as 2.4ghz, and the last as a guest network. I drive a BBW fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Aug 27, 2015 |
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Aug 27, 2015 19:26
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Maybe an odd question... My apartment is wired with cable jacks in 4 rooms, Ethernet in 4, and phone line in 3 (not sure why they didn't bother putting in phone line in the living room). The cable jacks are all hooked up and working, no idea about phone (who has land lines anymore). The Ethernet? All wired, but no data pass through from one room to another. I can't find a junction anywhere, and in the basement there is only one Ethernet line labeled for my apartment. Any thoughts on how I might be able to test out the wiring? I'd love to have streaming devices hard wired vs wireless.
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Aug 27, 2015 19:34
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Massasoit posted:Maybe an odd question... My apartment is wired with cable jacks in 4 rooms, Ethernet in 4, and phone line in 3 (not sure why they didn't bother putting in phone line in the living room). The cable jacks are all hooked up and working, no idea about phone (who has land lines anymore). Does your building offer any kind of Internet service? They may all terminate to a central place in the building where they can get patched into the apartment's network whenever service is established.
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Aug 27, 2015 19:38
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No internet service. All the cable wires terminated in the basement and when cable got hooked up he put all 4 on a splitter. We are the first to inhabit after a complete renovation. Where the cable wires came down there is one cat5 and one phone line per apartment. Couldn't find a switch or anything that would put them all to a single wire. I have a cable tester - I guess I'll try putting an end on the cat5 in the basement and see if I can get signal through the data ports in the rooms
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Aug 27, 2015 20:05
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Massasoit posted:Maybe an odd question... My apartment is wired with cable jacks in 4 rooms, Ethernet in 4, and phone line in 3 (not sure why they didn't bother putting in phone line in the living room). The cable jacks are all hooked up and working, no idea about phone (who has land lines anymore).
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Aug 27, 2015 21:54
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blk96gt posted:I'm in a similar situation but have a Netgear WNDR3700. I nerded out when I set it up a few years ago at our old house and am using the the feature that allows for three wireless networks (1 for N, 1 for G, the other is the guest network). The router is set up at the front of the house, so when I am at the back of the house wireless coverage is very spotty. How would I go about extending the N and G range and maintain the same wireless name and PW? If it helps, I have cat6 drops everywhere in the house so adding some sort of AP via wire will be no problem. Sorry I'm quoting myself, but after a little research I found the UniFi UAP-LR (http://amzn.com/B005H4CDF4). I think that basically does what I'm looking for except for 5 ghz capability (would have to go to the UAP-Pro to get 5 and 2.4ghz, which is $200). I would basically shut the wireless functionality off on my current router and plug the UAP-LR in. Anyone have any experiences with these? Any other options I should look at?
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Aug 27, 2015 23:18
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blk96gt posted:Sorry I'm quoting myself, but after a little research I found the UniFi UAP-LR (http://amzn.com/B005H4CDF4). I think that basically does what I'm looking for except for 5 ghz capability (would have to go to the UAP-Pro to get 5 and 2.4ghz, which is $200). I would basically shut the wireless functionality off on my current router and plug the UAP-LR in. UAPs are quite solid, but if the UAP-Pro is too much for your budget, I can recommend the ZyXEL NWA1123-NI. It comes with a wall wart power supply, but you may want a PoE injector to make it look nice on a ceiling or wall. I have one mounted on the ceiling of my home's second floor and have decent coverage even in the basement. If you don't care about PoE or wall/ceiling mounting, then pretty much any wireless router can be put into AP-only mode. One I see recommended here often is the TP-LINK Archer C7 which will do 802.11ac for the same price as the ZyXEL 802.11n AP.
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Aug 27, 2015 23:29
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blk96gt posted:Sorry I'm quoting myself, but after a little research I found the UniFi UAP-LR (http://amzn.com/B005H4CDF4). I think that basically does what I'm looking for except for 5 ghz capability (would have to go to the UAP-Pro to get 5 and 2.4ghz, which is $200). I would basically shut the wireless functionality off on my current router and plug the UAP-LR in. Don't get the UAP-LR. Just because you can see the access point from your device, doesn't mean that your device is powerful enough for the return trip. The UAP-LR is generally a bad idea.
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Aug 28, 2015 01:27
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CrazyLittle posted:Don't get the UAP-LR. Just because you can see the access point from your device, doesn't mean that your device is powerful enough for the return trip. The UAP-LR is generally a bad idea. I can't tell you how many times I've said this exact sentence. Wireless communication is a 2-way street, always keep that in mind.
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Aug 28, 2015 04:36
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The UAP-LR is intended for specialized situations where your wifi client devices are not laptops/phones/tablets/game consoles. I would not recommend it for home use. The standard Unifi AP is perfect for a home network if you don't need AC wifi. I have two of them myself, one for each floor of my house, and they are great. Reasonably cheap too for what you can do with them. (vlan trunking, multiple ssid's, guest portal, paid hotspot, detailed wifi client stats and charts, centralized wifi controller for multiple ap's, ect...) Their only real downsides are the non standard PoE they use (they do come with an injector though and Ubiquiti makes PoE switches that will feed them power properly), the controller software being a java app (works fine, I just don't like Java), and lack of AC wifi (I don't own any AC wifi devices anyway). But for $66 they are pretty drat impressive. Antillie fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Aug 28, 2015 |
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Aug 28, 2015 05:53
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Thanks for the help all. Looks like the standard Unifi AP will be the ticket. Am I really missing out on anything by not having 5hz? All the important devices are wired (gaming computer, PS3, sat. recv., etc), so it's only things like iPhones/iPads (do they work on 5hz? p. sure the 5s doesn't), laptops, and such that are wireless. Nothing that streams is wireless. Would it be worth it to get two AP's to ensure full coverage around the house? Are there problems when walking around and the device still hanging on to the first AP instead of swapping to the closer one?
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Aug 28, 2015 13:05
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wyoak posted:My apartment also has drops wired all over; there's a little hidden door in my bedroom closet that has terminating end of those drops as well as the run out of the apartment, maybe you've got something similar? I found where the wire bundles come out in the basement, but in the apartment there doesn't seem to be access anywhere. I'll have to double check I suppose. Tbh they probably put all that access in one of the other apartments or something. The contractors that did the renovation are pretty incompetent. I've been talking with them a lot because they left a ton of stuff unfinished. Also none of the wires are labeled. I put an rj45 connector on the end of what I think is my apartment's Ethernet cable, but didn't get any data pass through.
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Aug 28, 2015 16:39
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Any tips on how to mitigate the bright blue leds on my new ASUS Rt-n16?
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Aug 28, 2015 19:12
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skooma512 posted:Any tips on how to mitigate the bright blue leds on my new ASUS Rt-n16? Sharpie, masking tape, desolder them, etc.
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Aug 28, 2015 19:16
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skooma512 posted:Any tips on how to mitigate the bright blue leds on my new ASUS Rt-n16? If you install the Merlin firmware, it has an option for "stealth mode" where it disables all the LEDs.
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Aug 28, 2015 19:23
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How hard are the Mikrotik routers to set up? the TP Link Archer C8 has lovely WiFi, drops a lot and has problems on my phones. e: I'm eventually going to do a separate router and AP's, but not right now. Just want something simple that will work. My N66U worked great until it just poo poo all over itself. Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Aug 28, 2015 |
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Aug 28, 2015 19:25
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emocrat posted:Thanks for the tips. Ill try repositioning and then extending.  That's what she said!Gothmog1065 posted:How hard are the Mikrotik routers to set up? the TP Link Archer C8 has lovely WiFi, drops a lot and has problems on my phones. They have a default home router setup right out of the box now. They have a web interface for configuration that is easy to use and there's always winbox, command line and a whole thread with suggestions right here in SH/SC.
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Aug 28, 2015 19:32
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I'm pre-ordering one of those Google OnHub wireless routers for my girlfriend's house. I've talked about it in here before, but basically it's an older house and some of the walls on the first floor are plaster, so her existing dinky little d-link wireless router just gets murdered. Here's hoping the OnHub can blast through the walls a little more. I'll post the results in here when I get it all hooked up.
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Aug 28, 2015 22:24
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chocolateTHUNDER posted:I'm pre-ordering one of those Google OnHub wireless routers for my girlfriend's house. I've talked about it in here before, but basically it's an older house and some of the walls on the first floor are plaster, so her existing dinky little d-link wireless router just gets murdered. Here's hoping the OnHub can blast through the walls a little more. Apparently the OnHub is just a TP-Link in a different case/with different firmware. So if you want to save some cash/get it now, you can order an Archer C7.
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Aug 28, 2015 22:27
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Inspector_666 posted:Apparently the OnHub is just a TP-Link in a different case/with different firmware. So if you want to save some cash/get it now, you can order an Archer C7. Tplink makes it, but I was under the impression that it has much more more powerful antenna (and more of them) along with the more directional 2.4 ghz stuff.
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Aug 28, 2015 22:34
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The Netgear R7000 is on sale near me and I need and upgrade from my wrt54gl. My requirements are dual band 2.4/5ghz, gigabit Ethernet, and actively supported tomato/ddwrt support. I currently do not have any ac devices and don't plan on getting any in the short term. My current internet is 25/10 and I don't anticipate getting faster than 100/100 in the short term. Is there a better value router out there that meets my requirements if the R7000 is overkill for my needs? I can get it for about $150CAD.
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Aug 28, 2015 23:09
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Mantle posted:The Netgear R7000 is on sale near me and I need and upgrade from my wrt54gl. My requirements are dual band 2.4/5ghz, gigabit Ethernet, and actively supported tomato/ddwrt support. I currently do not have any ac devices and don't plan on getting any in the short term. The R7000 is overkill if you don't need AC but that seems like a good CAD price for the router. Check and see if you can get any of these routers cheaper: N Asus RT-N66U TP-LINK TL-WDR4300 AC Archer c5 Archer c7 If not then 7000 all the way.
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Aug 29, 2015 01:29
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Krailor posted:The R7000 is overkill if you don't need AC but that seems like a good CAD price for the router. Check and see if you can get any of these routers cheaper: Is the RT-AC66U just an AC version of the RT-N66U, with all the same custom firmware support? I can get the AC for about $135 and the N for about $105. Or the WDR4300 for $60. I do have a slight preference to Tomato over dd-wrt but as long as it is rock solid stable I don't reeeeeeealy care. Mantle fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Aug 29, 2015 |
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Aug 29, 2015 06:37
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Mantle posted:Is the RT-AC66U just an AC version of the RT-N66U, with all the same custom firmware support? I can get the AC for about $135 and the N for about $105. Or the WDR4300 for $60. I do have a slight preference to Tomato over dd-wrt but as long as it is rock solid stable I don't reeeeeeealy care. Unless there is something you KNOW you need Tomato/DD-WRT to do, I would suggest sticking with stock or using a fork of stock called Asuswrt-Merlin (http://asuswrt.lostrealm.ca/features), it's quite powerful out of the box, if it's not exposed in the webui you can telnet/ssh in and set nvram values by hand, AND you lose hardware acceleration on Tomato/DD-WRT (they refuse to include the closed source binary drivers to do so)
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Aug 29, 2015 07:22
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CuddleChunks posted:
Yeah and other easy to use modes like point to point bridge, WISP, Home AP. Honestly I expected way worse.. it took me 10 minutes to set up mine and it has been running ever since. I also enabled IPv6 which took an hour to figure out but not bad. Also did some routing/firewalling for my webserver. All of that was not hard in the least. Great wiki's online and everything is straightforward.
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Aug 29, 2015 15:10
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37th Chamber posted:Unless there is something you KNOW you need Tomato/DD-WRT to do, I would suggest sticking with stock or using a fork of stock called Asuswrt-Merlin (http://asuswrt.lostrealm.ca/features), it's quite powerful out of the box, if it's not exposed in the webui you can telnet/ssh in and set nvram values by hand, AND you lose hardware acceleration on Tomato/DD-WRT (they refuse to include the closed source binary drivers to do so) Hardware acceleration just lets you have >100mb WAN speeds so in his case it wouldn't matter. But yeah, Merlin owns if you don't need a particularly complicated setup.
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Aug 29, 2015 16:33
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I just installed a Unifi AP to go with the Egderouter Lite and the setup was ridiculously easy. Can have 4 wireless networks running at once including guest. For around $200 I'm pretty impressed with this. The ERL has a good setup wizard for home use. Compared to the belkin with ddwrt this is miles ahead. Now I just need this lovely government to finish the NBN so I can get better than 3mbps down lol...
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Aug 29, 2015 22:59
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skooma512 posted:Any tips on how to mitigate the bright blue leds on my new ASUS Rt-n16? I prefer black electrical tape. Blends in with the black surfaces on most electronic devices.
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Aug 30, 2015 02:18
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blk96gt posted:Thanks for the help all. Looks like the standard Unifi AP will be the ticket. Am I really missing out on anything by not having 5hz? All the important devices are wired (gaming computer, PS3, sat. recv., etc), so it's only things like iPhones/iPads (do they work on 5hz? p. sure the 5s doesn't), laptops, and such that are wireless. Nothing that streams is wireless. Would it be worth it to get two AP's to ensure full coverage around the house? Are there problems when walking around and the device still hanging on to the first AP instead of swapping to the closer one? 5ghz band wifi has two main advantages: 1. There are many non overlapping channels and 5ghz band gear is less common than 2.4ghz stuff. So if you are in an area with lots of other wifi networks around the 2.4ghz band may be overcrowded and almost unusable while the 5ghz band may be mostly clear. 2. Faster transfer speeds. This is really only noticeable when moving large files across the network. Things like games and Netflix just don't need the extra bandwidth that the 5ghz band offers. The 5ghz band also has a few disadvantages: 1. Shorter range and less ability to penetrate walls and other solid objects. This is just how the laws of physics work out and there isn't anything you can really do about it. 2. Not all devices have a 5ghz antenna. Most phones and tablets don't have one due to space constraints, some laptops do, some don't. Just depends on what your client devices are. Generally, devices that have a 5ghz antenna cost more than ones that don't. 3. 5ghz band gear costs more. You need a 5ghz antenna to send and receive on the 5ghz band, that costs money. You need a faster CPU and possibly a faster storage system to handle the higher transfer speeds, that also costs money. Unless one of the two advantages of 5ghz wifi I mentioned really applies to you in a significant way I would stick with 2.4ghz wifi. Single band N is more than fast enough for what most people do on a home network. As for getting two APs, it really depends on how big your house is, what the walls are made of, and where you can place the AP or APs. Most devices will hop between APs just fine without you ever noticing that they are doing it. Unifi APs can also do true AP controlled roaming, but it is not usually necessary to bother with that. In fact AP controlled roaming has its own downsides that must be weighed against the benefits it can sometimes provide.
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Aug 30, 2015 02:59
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