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Should work fine as long as they stick to 5ghz only and as long as the 5ghz band's shorter range doesn't cause any issues. If you try that with 2.4ghz you will be very disappointed. But even the 5ghz band only has so many non overlapping channels. Get a few of those systems in close proximity and I suspect even the 5ghz spectrum will get clogged up pretty quickly. I noticed they failed to mention how many physical antenna each unit has. Since each antenna can only be talking or listening on one channel at a time if you start using say 3 channels simultaneously then each one gets 1/3 antenna time and thus 1/3 of its possible speed. I suppose you could try splitting the antenna time in a non even manner using some sort of smart algorithm but the issue is still there. You could put more antennas in the units but then they cost more and may need to be larger/draw more power. Still not a substitute for a wired back haul in any sort of serious deployment. I like the idea for home use though assuming you don't need too much performance from your wifi and there aren't any other similar systems nearby. (and nobody running VHT80 nearby either) Antillie fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Jun 17, 2016 |
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Jun 17, 2016 00:09
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Antillie posted:In any case, user agent filtering is my guess. Try installing a Chrome addon that lets you change the user agent and then set your user agent to look like an iPad or whatever and see what happens.
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Jun 17, 2016 00:40
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Bouchacha posted:Thanks for the thorough and helpful explanation, but a user agent change to iPad did not fix the time out issue. No clue if it matters but the site I'm trying to reach is http://www.defensenet.org/ I have no idea why it wouldn't be working for you but it loads normally for me on chrome.
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Jun 17, 2016 01:00
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Bouchacha posted:I'm stumped by this. I'm trying to access a specific website (I haven't encountered this with any other site) and here's what happens:
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Jun 17, 2016 01:32
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:How comfortable are you with Wireshark? Never used it but I can learn.
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Jun 17, 2016 01:38
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A problem I got 99% solved but I'm just curious enough to try to get the last 1% there. My home network is a standard AT&T-provided modem/2.4GHz b/g/n router serving everything in my house. Got a Steam Link, and, as expected, it didn't work great with both the Link and the PC serving it both on that wifi. Can't move the modem/router, the PC in question, or the Steam Link, and it's not practical to run wire between any of those. I am aware of powerline networking, but not interested at the moment, and it's beside the point because I've solved the speed issue. I had a spare dual-band router laying around, a TP-Link WDR-3500, which I set up next to the PC with an Ethernet connection, enabled only the 5GHz band and connected the Steam Link to it, and it works great -- or, at least the PC is the bottleneck now, not the network. The PC-to-router leg of the connection seems to be the most important one to be wired for the quality of the Steam Link experience. Only issue is, with this setup the Steam Link doesn't actually see the Internet. Games work fine online cause the PC gets Internet over 2.4GHz wifi from the modem/router, and the Link is just a dumb terminal. But for things like updating its firmware, the Link doesn't have Internet because the dual-band router connecting it to the PC doesn't actually have a WAN connection. I can always point it at the home modem/router when I know there's new firmware out, but I was curious if I could get it working this way. I want to share the Internet connection the PC gets from its wifi to the 5GHz router over Ethernet and on to the Steam Link. I tried enabling sharing on the wifi adapter properties in Windows, but that doesn't get me all the way there. I think I might need to disable DHCP on the router and set up the PC and Link to have static addresses, but the instructions I see for doing something like this have you connecting the PC to the router's WAN port. I didn't want to go through this lengthy process and find out that doing so means the PC isn't visible to the Steam Link on the local network, which I was afraid of if the router is treating the PC like the WAN. Will that work or is there another way? I looked at putting the dual-band router in WDS bridge mode but that didn't seem to get the job done either -- it acted like everything was OK connecting to the modem/router but I couldn't get it to actually serve Internet over Ethernet or wifi.
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Jun 17, 2016 02:28
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It's not at all beside the point because it solves problems besides speed, like temporary interference issues caused by poo poo outside of your control, stability, lower ping if you have a good circuit, etc. If you can I would buy a powerline kit just to see how it works for you. If it ends up being lovely just send it back and you've lost ten minutes of your time. If it works it's going to be much easier tho. As for sharing I haven't done it since Windows 7 but back then it was as simple as highlighting both connections in the network control panel applet and select bridge connections.
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Jun 17, 2016 15:06
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:How comfortable are you with Wireshark? I tried but found it inscrutable. Do you have a hint with what I should do with it?
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Jun 17, 2016 21:08
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I recently ordered a new router and was originally going to go for the OP's recommended TP-Link C9 but found Target had a sale on many routers and managed to get the TP-Link AC2600 for a grand total of $163.63 with a $20 gift card on top of that. Not sure if anyone is interested or if I just wasted more money needlessly. Anyways, is there any general "go to" setup/configuration guides out there? I see the OP has a great deal of detail in it exploring various options and some tools as well I will be exploring. Networking is not my strength and I have only surface level understanding of most of it. I am hoping this will largely be a plug and play experience. I'll also be terminating my own cat6a cables for the first time as I will be re-positioning where I place my router based off earlier feedback to improve wifi throughout my apartment. Thanks again to everyone who answered my last question, should solve our bedroom issues.
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Jun 19, 2016 02:43
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On3moresoul posted:I recently ordered a new router and was originally going to go for the OP's recommended TP-Link C9 but found Target had a sale on many routers and managed to get the TP-Link AC2600 for a grand total of $163.63 with a $20 gift card on top of that. Not sure if anyone is interested or if I just wasted more money needlessly. Playing around with its emulator, here are the few things I would do out of the box: Change default usernames/passwords (Advanced > System Tools > Administration) Ensure your wireless is running WPA2 on non-default SSID/password (Basic > Wireless) Disable Guest Network if you don't need it. (Basic > Guest Network) Set up DNS to Google and/or OpenDNS. (Advanced > Internet > Advanced Dropdown button > "Use the following DNS addresses") Make sure SPI firewall is on. (Advanced > Security > Settings) Make sure UPnP is on. (Advanced > Security > UPnP) For terminating your cables, make sure you have a tester handy. It saves you time trying to find out why your cable isn't working correctly/at full speed when you accidentally crossed a pair or one end isn't terminated correctly. Best of luck, it's nice having a network that "just works," or at least you can be assured it's not your equipment when your ISP's network drops.
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Jun 19, 2016 13:11
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I just moved into a new home which was wired with Cat6 cables. I guess I just assumed the cables would all be connected to a switch or something. I have 5 rooms that each have 2 Cat6 plugs. In the basement maintenance closet I have a box with all ten cables that are loose. I want to get these working and also install a switch if possible at one of the plugs where I have my entertainment center as I have a receiver, htpc, and a few gaming consoles. I guess my question is will this setup work? 1st floor: modem-> router-> wall plug. Basement closet: 10 port switch. Entertainment center: wall plug-> 8 port switch-> devices. So basically I will have a switch plugged into my router and then a second switch plugged into the first switch. Right now I have the following and need a second switch: Router: TP-LINK AC1900 Archer C9 Switch: TRENDnet 8-Port Unmanaged Gigabit Switch TEG-S80g mcpringles fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Jun 21, 2016 |
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Jun 21, 2016 18:22
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mcpringles posted:I just moved into a new home which was wired with Cat6 cables. I guess I just assumed the cables would all be connected to a switch or something. Yeah, that should work fine. Whoever did the wiring should've put in a patch panel so you could plug short cables between it and your switch, but they were probably just told to run the cables (it happens a lot with contractors who can run the cables but aren't setting anything up).
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Jun 21, 2016 22:32
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mediaphage posted:The Cisco is your cable modem.  Of course. I've used a two-in-one for so long I forgot this was a typical setup for decent wireless networks.Internet Explorer posted:Try to make sure all your devices are connecting at 5 GHz vs 2.4 GHz. If you're in an apartment complex or something there could be a ton of other people on the 2.4 GHz spectrum. 5 GHz has more "channels" so there is less likely to be interference. The best way to achieve this is to set up one network (SSID) to do only 5 GHz and one network (SSID) to do only 2.4 GHz, and force your devices to connect to the 5 GHz network. Okay so after some fiddling we discovered that the wireless router has been broadcasting an insecure network for god knows how long that nobody in the house ever bothered using or knew existed. The lovely network was on the two-in-one modem. Our devices are switched over and secured now and it's going great! Should we disable the original lovely network or leave it? The other people here have their devices set up for it and it works fine for them. They tend to overcomplicate things when it comes to stuff like this. Is it okay to leave it if we don't see any obvious problems happening?
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Jun 21, 2016 22:50
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Mak0rz posted:
No, you should disable it. It's an unnecessary security risk for the people using it and for you should someone use your connection for nefarious purposes.
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Jun 21, 2016 23:08
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mediaphage posted:No, you should disable it. It's an unnecessary security risk for the people using it and for you should someone use your connection for nefarious purposes. Good to know. If I were to disable the old network and then change the new network's SSID and password to the old one's settings, would that make everything just work with no fuss? I checked and the modem has no port forwarding/filtering settings.
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Jun 21, 2016 23:46
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Mak0rz posted:Good to know. If I were to disable the old network and then change the new network's SSID and password to the old one's settings, would that make everything just work with no fuss? If the SSID, password, and encryption type are the same, you usually don't have to do anything on the clients.
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Jun 21, 2016 23:48
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Zorilla posted:If the SSID, password, and encryption type are the same, you usually don't have to do anything on the clients. Okay, done without a hitch! Would we see any speed/connection issues on this thing if all of the house's devices are connected at once? There's like 12-15 of them. 99% of the time they're all doing normal browsing stuff and not torrenting anime or whatever. The most intense activity would probably be two devices Netflixing simultaneously, but that would likely be a rare instance.
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Jun 22, 2016 00:00
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Rexxed posted:Yeah, that should work fine. Whoever did the wiring should've put in a patch panel so you could plug short cables between it and your switch, but they were probably just told to run the cables (it happens a lot with contractors who can run the cables but aren't setting anything up). Thanks! I will try buying a second switch and hopefully everything will work. It sounds like I don't need the patch panel.
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Jun 22, 2016 00:01
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Mak0rz posted:Okay, done without a hitch! Perhaps, if you had them all being used at the same time. You won't notice anything unless something is being a connection pig tho.
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Jun 22, 2016 03:25
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mcpringles posted:I just moved into a new home which was wired with Cat6 cables. I guess I just assumed the cables would all be connected to a switch or something. So I went to look for a switch with 10 plus ports and everything I'm seeing are $100-700. Is that right? The 8 port switch I bought was only $25. I don't really want a managed switch or a smart switch.
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Jun 22, 2016 15:49
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mcpringles posted:So I went to look for a switch with 10 plus ports and everything I'm seeing are $100-700. Is that right? The 8 port switch I bought was only $25. I don't really want a managed switch or a smart switch. You don't need to spend $700, but you're probably looking at more than $100. I got this Netgear ProSAFE 24-port for $157. I stupidly forgot to keep the box for the $30 rebate, which would have brought it down to $127. Unmanaged, plug-and-connect, and hassle-free so far for whatever it's worth.
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Jun 22, 2016 16:15
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mcpringles posted:So I went to look for a switch with 10 plus ports and everything I'm seeing are $100-700. Is that right? The 8 port switch I bought was only $25. I don't really want a managed switch or a smart switch. More than 8 ports quickly starts to leave the realm of consumer gear, hence the price increase. Few people want to connect that many things but still don't care about managed features. The funny thing is that managed features don't really cost you much extra at that point either. You can get a used 24-port Cisco 2960G for $120-150, or a 48-port 3560G for a little bit more.
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Jun 22, 2016 16:26
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Even an unmanaged d-link or something would be fine for your purposes. I got a 24port unmanaged d-link for like $150 Canadian. You can find used Cisco switches on ebay and craigslist too.
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Jun 22, 2016 16:34
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I bought this 16-port unmanaged tp-link like four years ago and it's worked great ever since. $100 CAD: http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_1045_355&item_id=054503
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Jun 22, 2016 16:38
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Netgear's technical support seems like a bunch of bullshit. Back in March I bought their AC1750 router and it's really the best router I've ever owned. Two days ago a crazy lightning storm rolls in and hits the house, the only casualty being the second ethernet port on the router. Naturally it was 3 days after the 90-day warranty from Netgear ran out, but after looking into it the 90-day period is just for "free" technical support. My only option now is to call them up and pay some undisclosed fee just to talk to someone about getting a replacement (still under a 1 year manufacturer warranty). I think that I'd rather just deal with a dead port on the thing until it dies than pay extra to get an in-warranty repair. So, good job Netgear on keeping people from acting on warranty coverage.
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Jun 22, 2016 16:46
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Undisclosed fee, what the hell? That sounds like it couldn't be legal, to have a stated warranty period but to force people to jump through hoops for which you charge them additional money to use it. Is this in the paperwork that came with the product or on some website of theirs?
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Jun 22, 2016 16:50
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There wasn't any warranty paperwork in the box, but on the outside it just had a url for warranty http://www.netgear.com/about/warranty/. I guess it's unfair of me to say that it's undisclosed, but they aren't very forthcoming about it on the warranty page. Just went a bit deeper and I would have to pay $49.99 for a single "incident" or "issue" solution. The fine print even says that it is further limited to a 30 minute call. Screw that. There isn't even any guarantee I would get a replacement, that's just to talk to someone. I guess I should have grabbed the best buy extended warranty the one time I buy something there out of convenience.
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Jun 22, 2016 17:09
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:How comfortable are you with Wireshark? Can anyone provide help with this issue? I'm more confused than anything else.
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Jun 22, 2016 18:14
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Eletriarnation posted:More than 8 ports quickly starts to leave the realm of consumer gear, hence the price increase. Few people want to connect that many things but still don't care about managed features. The Gunslinger posted:Even an unmanaged d-link or something would be fine for your purposes. I got a 24port unmanaged d-link for like $150 Canadian. You can find used Cisco switches on ebay and craigslist too. mediaphage posted:I bought this 16-port unmanaged tp-link like four years ago and it's worked great ever since. $100 CAD: Ouch, not what I wanted to hear but thank you for all the replies. I think I can be cheap and get by with an 8 port. Each room has two ports. The living room has the router and the basement has the other switch, so those rooms should be fine with only 1 port. Then I can upgrade it later if necessary.
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Jun 22, 2016 19:22
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I just popped "16 port switch" into Amazon and found a TP-Link, a D-Link, and a Netgear all priced in the $60-75 range without even trying. Or just go used. I've got a D-Link DGS-1224T I snagged from eBay for under $40 and it seems they still go for that price today.
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Jun 22, 2016 19:35
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IOwnCalculus posted:I just popped "16 port switch" into Amazon and found a TP-Link, a D-Link, and a Netgear all priced in the $60-75 range without even trying. Just FYI make sure those are all gigabit, because I found cheap ones from all over but many are still 10/100. Also, in reference above, $100CAD is only $78USD at the moment, which I don't think is too much for a brand new unit (not to say not to go used because I would if that were an option).
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Jun 22, 2016 20:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:I just popped "16 port switch" into Amazon and found a TP-Link, a D-Link, and a Netgear all priced in the $60-75 range without even trying. Would you mind posting the link? I didn't see anything on eBay and all the Cisco and TP-LINK switches were 100+ that I saw. I didn't check D-Link yet though.
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Jun 22, 2016 20:56
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mcpringles posted:Would you mind posting the link? I didn't see anything on eBay and all the Cisco and TP-LINK switches were 100+ that I saw. I didn't check D-Link yet though. Are you looking at managed switches, or stuff with POE? Because that's the only reason I can think of that you would be finding 16 port TP-LINK switches over $100. Hell, even the Easy Smart 16 port is only $90 on Amazon.
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Jun 22, 2016 21:35
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ControlledBurn posted:Are you looking at managed switches, or stuff with POE? Because that's the only reason I can think of that you would be finding 16 port TP-LINK switches over $100. Hell, even the Easy Smart 16 port is only $90 on Amazon. I'm just looking for a basic unmanaged switch. Unless Imbgoing to need a managed one? The OP says if yoy dont know what it is you shouldn't nees it. The 8 port one I just bought was $30. I was hoping to only spend 40 or 50 but it looks like that's not possible. Since my living room and basement have two wall jacks each, and either a router or switch it seems unnecessary to have the second wall jack. If I leave those two out I can use an 8 port switch to save some money?
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Jun 23, 2016 01:10
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mcpringles posted:I'm just looking for a basic unmanaged switch. Unless Imbgoing to need a managed one? The OP says if yoy dont know what it is you shouldn't nees it. Yeah, you can just use another switch or a switch port of a consumer router in any room where you need more than the one port. Just make sure that you don't connect more than one port in between two devices unless you get a managed switch with STP and/or link aggregation. A giant web is fine but more than one way to get from point A to point B will cause issues with dumb switches.
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Jun 23, 2016 01:19
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I have two 5th gen airport extremes, the second one acting as an AP physically connected via long rear end ethernet cable on opposite sides of the house. They're set with the same network names and passwords, channel is currently set to auto, is it better to have them on the same channels, different channels, or does it not really matter? Also, signal is fine according to bars, mediocre to poor by SNR in the center of the house, more so the 5ghz network, are there any downsides to adding a third airport extreme (they're pretty cheap on craigslist now) set up somewhere in the middle of the house, no hard line, using the "extend existing network" mode?
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Jun 23, 2016 21:48
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Set them to different channels. For 2.4ghz wifi there are only 3 non-overlapping channel: 1,6,11. Ideally you arrange them so that you don't have adjacent frequencies next to each other because there is adjacent interference on the edges of the channel bands. Use 20mhz wide channels only. For 5.8ghz the channels don't overlap but there's still co-channel interference on the edges so set them to different channels, non-adjacent. IMHO use 20mhz wide channels here too. If you use 40-80 you halve the effective range.
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Jun 23, 2016 22:04
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I'm moving to a new apartment next month and need to setup/buy a home network for it from scratch. The apartment is wired for fiber but the plan I'm taking is "only" going to be 100/100 advertised. I'm thinking I'll only need 3 wired connections (Roku, desktop, NAS/media/Plex server) and wifi. How do I choose between one of the router+ap combos in the OP (the TP Link ones) vs getting an EdgeRouter X and one of their access points? Is it just price (the TP Link C7 is about $100 for example, vs. the EdgeRouter + AP Pro being around $200 from a glance) or is there something more to it? The most networky thing I'll want to do is maybe putting the server on it's own isolated network, if this is possible, cause I wanted to open it up to the world so I can stream Plex to my iPhone from anywhere and also setup a OpenVPN server or something similar on it. I'll also want QoS I suppose. It's not a big apartment so I'm fairly sure a single 5 GHz access point could cover the entire place.
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Jun 24, 2016 08:51
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Ohvee posted:There wasn't any warranty paperwork in the box, but on the outside it just had a url for warranty http://www.netgear.com/about/warranty/. This does sound lovely, but on the other hand why should they pay for lightning damage?
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Jun 24, 2016 13:33
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I don't buy that you have to pay a fee to make a warranty claim, if for no other reason than it doesn't sound legal. Why not reach out on twitter (nicely) and ask them what your next step should be? Leave out the lightning bit because this isn't even a warranty worthy incident.
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Jun 24, 2016 14:25
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