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Inspector_71 posted:What kind of security do you have on each network? WPA2 AES on both.
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Apr 4, 2012 00:21
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poxin posted:WPA2 AES on both. Well there goes my theory.
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Apr 4, 2012 00:23
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Is the 2.4 GHz spectrum congested at all?
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Apr 4, 2012 03:17
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Vaginal Engineer posted:Is the 2.4 GHz spectrum congested at all? It's very likely to be congested. 5 Ghz is the luxury band that no one else uses so you get full speed. Please refer to the links in the op for inSSIDer or the android app (there'll be an iphone app somewhere as well).
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Apr 4, 2012 06:48
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Devian666 posted:(there'll be an iphone app somewhere as well). Actually not, Apple doesn't allow iPhone apps to scan for wifi signals. It really sucks.
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Apr 4, 2012 07:34
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Yeah that's lovely and useless. You can see what signals are in the area but that's only a fraction of the information you need. What about jailbroken iOS?
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Apr 4, 2012 08:00
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Devian666 posted:It's very likely to be congested. 5 Ghz is the luxury band that no one else uses so you get full speed. Please refer to the links in the op for inSSIDer or the android app (there'll be an iphone app somewhere as well). Sorry, that was actually a reply to poxin, not a general question.
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Apr 4, 2012 18:41
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Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out when I go in tomorrow. In case it's pretty congested, best case is just try and find a channel that's open?
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Apr 4, 2012 20:38
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Switching channels might help. Often you'll find someone is hogging most of the 2.4GHz channels with a single access point. It doesn't take much clog the band up.
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Apr 4, 2012 23:06
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I just moved into a new house and I'm trying to figure out the best way to network things. I drew up some diagrams to hopefully help illustrate how things are setup. The homeowner has the cable modem wired up in the basement strapped to the ceiling between joists where the cable is routed, next to the cable modem he has a 5 port switch (which I believe just died so I ordered a new one). he has cat-5 run to the 2nd story of the house but never finished running it to the 1st floor in the living room. I just finished running cable to the Living room so I can hardwire (ideally) my HTPC (boxee box). After we got done running the cable from the basement to the living room we tested the connection and the switch seems to have died as my router couldn't get a signal either which is why I have a new switch on order. We tested the cable we ran and it is looks good, no pin or latency issues. So in the meantime I've removed the switch from the equation and have my wireless router which is upstairs in the hallway connected directly to the cable modem. My PC is connected to the router wirelessly unfortunately because running cable from the walljack in the hall across the landing and under the doorjam to the office would be unsightly and my g/f wouldn't be thrilled about it. All of my media files (video/audio/photography) lives on a Drobo box. So this is what it looks like currently.  and this is what I'm planning to do.  Does this all look alright? I don't fully understand the limitations of switches vs. routers, the reason I wanted my wireless router upstairs in the hall rather than in the basement or on the first floor was to hopefully get the strongest possible signal to my desktop. I'm also trying to minimize the latency to my HTPC though and at some point I'll probably add another switch or router in the living room so I can hardwire my PS3 and A/V receiver in addition to my Boxee Box. Any advice would be much appreciated, I'm truly a noob as far as this goes, historically I've just tried to get everything as close together as possible so I can be wired wherever possible. I'm also considering trying to sell my Drobo FS (esata/usb/firewire) to purchase the NAS version. so I can put it in any room and not have to worry about my PC being on, my only concern is that I have all of my raw photo files as well as my lightroom catalog sitting on the drobo and don't want to introduce any bottlenecks for editing photos. Thanks for reading.
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Apr 5, 2012 01:22
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The difference between switches and routers for 99% of applications is the lack of DHCP on switches. I think you should be fine with your setup since you have a router on the network, and as long as you hook up just the switch, modem and router at first so that the modem gives the WAN IP to the router and then everything else pulls from the router, it should work. Worst case you put the router in the basement and have to buy something to act as a WAP on the 2nd floor. EDIT: If you don't have a static IP from you ISP it may get annoying though, since when the lease renews one of your devices may end up with the WAN IP and then nothing will work until you reset it. I think. Honestly I'm not too sure about the logic routers use when they hand out the IP if the first thing they hit is a switch. Inspector_666 fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Apr 5, 2012 |
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Apr 5, 2012 01:30
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MMD3 posted:Off topic, what did you use to make those diagrams?
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Apr 5, 2012 01:46
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Will it work if he has the cable from the downstairs switch plugged only into the WAN port of his router? I thought that the DHCP server only served IPs to the LAN ports. If so, he would need another switch upstairs with that router so that:code:
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Apr 5, 2012 01:55
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Hiyoshi posted:Will it work if he has the cable from the downstairs switch plugged only into the WAN port of his router? I thought that the DHCP server only served IPs to the LAN ports. If so, he would need another switch upstairs with that router so that: That's a very good point, and you're most likely correct. There may be some way to work around it using DD-WRT or something but it's most likely more hassle than it's worth. Inspector_666 fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Apr 5, 2012 |
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Apr 5, 2012 02:08
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IT Guy posted:Off topic, what did you use to make those diagrams? Lovelycharts.com good stuff , super easy and quick.
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Apr 5, 2012 02:17
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lucidcharts.com works pretty good too.
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Apr 5, 2012 03:12
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Hiyoshi posted:Will it work if he has the cable from the downstairs switch plugged only into the WAN port of his router? I thought that the DHCP server only served IPs to the LAN ports. If so, he would need another switch upstairs with that router so that: The proposed arrangement means that the boxee box would get an IP address from the cable modem and would sit on the cable modem's subnet. You end up needing to route between subnets for things to work nicely (maybe). http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Linking_Subnets_with_Static_Routes I try to avoid this sort of configuration at home due to  being required.Also thanks for the chart program links. They both look good.
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Apr 5, 2012 03:31
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Devian666 posted:The proposed arrangement means that the boxee box would get an IP address from the cable modem and would sit on the cable modem's subnet. You end up needing to route between subnets for things to work nicely (maybe). hmmm, so what are you suggesting is the best way to go about configuring it? is my diagram going to do the trick or do I need another router in there somewhere? I do have a dynamic IP through comcast but it doesn't change very regularly as far as I can tell. I know that since moving into this house I've had to power cycle the router and modem maybe once a week or so for the past 3 weeks. It's irritating but not unbearable.
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Apr 5, 2012 05:12
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MMD3 posted:hmmm, so what are you suggesting is the best way to go about configuring it? is my diagram going to do the trick or do I need another router in there somewhere? If you're having issues with your modem under current load I would not recommend changing to the proposed configuration. Also, static routing on your network does not have anything to do with your dynamic ip. It appears that you don't fully understand what's required so I would recommend getting a better understanding before attempting this. I say this so that you won't end up spending a lot of wasted hours for something that might not work, or work well, with your hardware. So, no don't bother with static routing. The hardware solution below is a much better approach. e: I keep changing my mind as I'm not 100% well today. You could place a router where the 5 port switch is and make that the DHCP server for your network. Then on your router connecting the wireless devices should have DHCP disabled as two DHCP servers is not a good idea. This would eliminate a lot of the configuration problems and save you from setting up static routes. Devian666 fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Apr 5, 2012 |
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Apr 5, 2012 06:07
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Meta Ridley posted:So I have both Comcast cable (16Mbps) and CenturyLink DSL (40Mbps). Basically the cable sucks for gaming (random lag spikes) but is fine for downloading, and the DSL is great for downloading and games. If you're okay with using a PC as your router, look at ClearOS (formerly ClarkConnect). I've got a box running it doing triple-wan for the last year (50mbps fios, 20mbps cable, and 5mbps fixed wireless), and it works fantastically. It's a little wonky with the 'balancing' in that it uses standard linux routing metrics (because it is), but it works well enough, has failover if something drops, and a nice web GUI for configuring the whole mess. You can set certain protocols to go out certain routes, or both, or certain IPs or whatever you want, basically.
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Apr 5, 2012 17:15
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I've been having issues with being able to fully utilize my provisioned upstream from Comcast (4 Mbps) when streaming with Xsplit to Twitch.tv/Own3d.tv. Currently the cable modem is connected to a Buffalo WHR-HP-G54 which is running the latest version of Tomato. I had a feeling the router was causing issues, so I tried removing the router from the equation by connecting my streaming PC directly to the modem, and lo and behold, I was able to stream to both twitch & own3d at a constant 3.5-4 Mbps with 0 dropped frames. As soon as I add the router back into the mix, I immediately see a significant number of dropped frames and upstream bandwidth that fluctuates wildly from 600 kbps to 4.5 Mbps every time I run a bandwidth test. (This is with 0 other devices plugged into the router and with the wireless disabled) I've tried flashing the router with DD-WRT, but even after a hard 30-30-30 reset, I still have the same issues. At this point, I'm mystified, since this router has been quite solid on the whole and I haven't really encountered issues with any other activities besides streaming with xsplit. The only conclusion I can draw is that this router's hardware is somehow apparently not capable of streaming, which seems very strange/arbitrary to me, but that could just be my lack of knowledge/experience talking. Anyway, before I go out and drop $100+ on a new router, I figured it was worth making a post to see if any of you all had any ideas on things I could try that I haven't already considered. I'm happy to spend the money if it will fix my problem, but the last thing I want to do is blow it if it's not going to solve anything. chronofx fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Apr 5, 2012 |
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Apr 5, 2012 17:32
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I need to wire up a small university lab which may as well fall into the "home network" category. Upinks to the edge switch will be 1 gig. I need to do two rooms. The lager of the two will be a sizeable lab, but all the computers are clustered on one wall. The other room is the attached office. I was thinking about: Cisco SD2005 5 port 10/100/1G unmanaged for the small office Cisco SD2008T 8 port 10/100/1G unmanaged for the larger lab Anything I should know about these two in terms of WARNING DO NOT USE? Or are they just your average run of the mill oversubscribed SOHO devices? Only one of the computers is likely to do any heavy network lifting since it transfers in numbers from overseas to crunch, but even then it is limited to the campus backbone which maxes out somewhere at 100mbit. To that end I'm not too worried about an oversubscribed switch. So those Ciscos -- yes/no? If no, any other suggestions?
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Apr 5, 2012 17:32
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chronofx posted:I've been having issues with being able to fully utilize my provisioned upstream from Comcast (4 Mbps) when streaming with Xsplit to Twitch.tv/Own3d.tv. Currently the cable modem is connected to a Buffalo WHR-HP-G54 which is running the latest version of Tomato. The only thing I can think is happening here is the cpu is struggling to filter the packets in real time. This is one of the rare situations where I would recommend mild overclocking to see if that helps. Otherwise turning down firewall settings or putting your computer's IP address in the DMZ settings (assuming you have good AV software). Martytoof posted:I need to wire up a small university lab which may as well fall into the "home network" category. Upinks to the edge switch will be 1 gig. I see a lot of Amazon reviews saying they run hot. Switches are a commodity product there's no reason to have them running hot especially given there's no-name switches that work perfectly well and don't overheat. For SOHO usage I've been using netgear swtiches without an problems. However, anything that isn't bottom end cisco should work well. Devian666 fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Apr 5, 2012 |
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Apr 5, 2012 20:10
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Devian666 posted:The only thing I can think is happening here is the cpu is struggling to filter the packets in real time. This is one of the rare situations where I would recommend mild overclocking to see if that helps. Otherwise turning down firewall settings or putting your computer's IP address in the DMZ settings (assuming you have good AV software). Thanks for your response! I also tried disabling the router firewall & putting my computer's IP address in the DMZ, but neither seems to have any effect. Can anyone link me to a decent guide on how to overclock it? I'm not familiar with how to do this, and I've been seeing a lot of scary things about bricking my router when I google. Alternatively, is there any way for me to grab an IP directly from the modem's DHCP server rather than going through the router? I'm willing to risk not being behind the router firewall if it means I can stream reliably, at least as a stop gap measure. Our current network setup is pretty standard and has my computer separated from the modem by a router & a switch. Now I know very little about networking, so I'm not sure if this is possible given the current wiring arrangement, but I tried manually assigning myself to the modem's subnet (with an IP in the range that its DHCP server can assign to) and listed the modem IP as my primary gateway. Unfortunately, I don't seem to get a connection to the internet this way. In order to make this work, would I need to not have the router standing in between my computer & the modem, or is there another option that I'm not aware of? If it matters, my computer can see the modem and connect to its configuration page when I'm a DHCP client of the router. Edit: I just checked and DD-WRT apparently has a DHCP forwarding feature. Would this change anything? I'm guessing it wouldn't matter since the traffic would still be passing through the router... chronofx fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Apr 6, 2012 |
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Apr 6, 2012 01:24
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Devian666 posted:I see a lot of Amazon reviews saying they run hot. Switches are a commodity product there's no reason to have them running hot especially given there's no-name switches that work perfectly well and don't overheat. Yeah actually I just checked those reviews myself and I think I'll give them the pass. I'm going to pick up two TP-LINK something-or-other 8 port gig switches they have at the campus booksture. Thanks for checking for me though!
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Apr 6, 2012 01:26
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MMD3 posted:hmmm, so what are you suggesting is the best way to go about configuring it? is my diagram going to do the trick or do I need another router in there somewhere? You need to put the router after the cable modem. It will now anchor your home network and act as the head-end. Hopefully your computer upstairs will talk to the router without issue. Wiring up the boxee box is an excellent idea. That can probably go right to the router. You likely don't need a switch at all.
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Apr 6, 2012 05:06
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CuddleChunks posted:You need to put the router after the cable modem. It will now anchor your home network and act as the head-end. Hopefully your computer upstairs will talk to the router without issue. Wiring up the boxee box is an excellent idea. That can probably go right to the router. You likely don't need a switch at all. My concern was that my router would be too far from my desktop to send it a decent wireless signal. I guess I can always give it a try and see how it works out but the signal is going to be passing through two floors with various wiring and plumbing. I just realized I have a Wireless G router that I'm not using as well, so what if I went from Wireless G router downstairs to Wireless N router upstairs, would that require a lot of DHCP fumbling to disable one of them from providing an IP (I'm really clueless about configuring routers as you can probably tell).
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Apr 6, 2012 05:22
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CuddleChunks posted:You need to put the router after the cable modem. It will now anchor your home network and act as the head-end. Hopefully your computer upstairs will talk to the router without issue. Wiring up the boxee box is an excellent idea. That can probably go right to the router. You likely don't need a switch at all. So I just tried this... ran a speed test while the router was on the 2nd floor close to the PC and pulled ping of 6, 35Mbps down then I tried plugging everything into the new switch like my 2nd diagram and I got a connection to the router but the boxee box couldn't automatically detect DHCP settings so I couldn't get a wired connection to it. I moved the router down to the basement and removed the switch and ran speedtest again and I'm pulling 21Mbps to my PC... that's a pretty severe performance hit  dunno how happy I am with this option.
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Apr 6, 2012 06:45
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If I were you, here's what I would do:code:Edit: Turn off wireless on the Wireless-G Router if you don't need it. Hiyoshi fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Apr 6, 2012 |
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Apr 6, 2012 07:22
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Hiyoshi posted:If I were you, here's what I would do: aha, I'll give this a shot tomorrow. so I always use 192.168.1.1 to get to my router, with two routers on the network how do I know which IP to use? The Wireless-N is a TP-Link WR1043ND I believe and the Wireless-G is a Netgear WGT624 I tested out the boxee box and man it runs so much more smoothly wired... so glad I can finally use this thing as it was intended, I streamed part of an 8GB 1080p MKV and it had no hiccups. MMD3 fucked around with this message at 08:56 on Apr 6, 2012 |
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Apr 6, 2012 08:52
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MMD3 posted:aha, I'll give this a shot tomorrow. so I always use 192.168.1.1 to get to my router, with two routers on the network how do I know which IP to use? The Wireless-N is a TP-Link WR1043ND I believe and the Wireless-G is a Netgear WGT624 With the DHCP off on the second router, it will get an IP assigned to it automatically by the first router. Just check out it's attached/connected devices table for it's IP.
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Apr 6, 2012 09:51
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VulgarandStupid posted:With the DHCP off on the second router, it will get an IP assigned to it automatically by the first router. Just check out it's attached/connected devices table for it's IP. If its hooked up properly, it wont. The proper way to do this is to set a different ip for the web interface on the second router thats in the same dhcp range as the first and hook them up via lan ports. Using the wan port on the second router would make it double nat.
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Apr 6, 2012 10:32
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fagalicious posted:If its hooked up properly, it wont. The proper way to do this is to set a different ip for the web interface on the second router thats in the same dhcp range as the first and hook them up via lan ports. Using the wan port on the second router would make it double nat. so... am I doing it wrong then if I'm using the WAN port as the uplink port to connect the router to the cable modem?
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Apr 6, 2012 15:49
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Vaginal Engineer posted:Is the 2.4 GHz spectrum congested at all? I looked into this today. The netgear we have running is on channel 3, the next closest ssid in the area is on channel 11 with nothing else near it. Using a cable plugged direct into the router I get full 30/30, with wireless sitting right next to it, I get less than half of that. I was looking into channel bonding with a 2.4 network. I noticed when I enabled "up to 300mbps" on the netgear, it doubled the channel spectrum in inSSIDer. It only stayed this way for a second or two, the nearest APs are on channel one and nothing else. Any reason why this wouldn't stick? poxin fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Apr 6, 2012 |
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Apr 6, 2012 17:43
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MMD3 posted:so... am I doing it wrong then if I'm using the WAN port as the uplink port to connect the router to the cable modem? You don't want anything plugged into the WAN port on the upstairs router, but the cable modem should be plugged into the WAN port on the downstairs router. As fagalicious said, before you do all this you will want to log into the configuration page on your upstairs router and hard code an IP address into it. Just make sure that the IP address is in the same range as the IP addresses your downstairs router is giving out and that it's in the same subnet. In your case you could make the upstairs router 192.168.1.2 so it's easy to remember.
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Apr 6, 2012 17:50
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I posted in this thread while back about slow WiFi speeds on my 2nd floor because I was forced in to putting the modem/router on the first floor (only ethernet port). Well that problem was tolerable-ly alleviated by replacing my router with the Asus N-16 - but now I've decided that it's still not good enough. I want the speeds my downstairs roommates get. Does anyone have a an opinion on power line adapters? particuarlly the ZyXEL PLA407 HomePlug AV 200 Mbps Powerline Wall-Plug Adapter? The reviews are surprisingly fantastic. My plan is to plug one in downstairs and feed Ethernet directly from the N-16. Then plug one in up in my room and set up an old Cisco, tomato-running router as an AP to broadcast WiFi to my room. Am I doing this right? Thanks for making my decisions.
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Apr 6, 2012 18:20
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friendly gentleman posted:I posted in this thread while back about slow WiFi speeds on my 2nd floor because I was forced in to putting the modem/router on the first floor (only ethernet port). Well that problem was tolerable-ly alleviated by replacing my router with the Asus N-16 - but now I've decided that it's still not good enough. I want the speeds my downstairs roommates get.
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Apr 6, 2012 19:50
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Two questions: First, I would like to build a custom router that, on the surface, works much like my Linksys running DD-WRT. In addition to the normal operation of the router, I'd like it be able to run some network monitoring/security tools. First, I would like to run Snort on all the traffic passing through. From there, I wouldn't mind being able to run some VMs for a few small servers and Squid. My "normal" operating requirements are: - Wireless N with WPA2 AES - NAT with DHCP - Works with DDNS - Port forwarding I would like to build this into a "gateway" box. I'd also like for it to be low-powered, if possible. Any suggestions or lessons-learned would be appreciated. Also, has anyone used the firewall on a DD-WRT installation to copy/forward all traffic to an external box?
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Apr 7, 2012 00:05
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Postal posted:Two questions: I use a stripped-down undervolted northwood setup to make switching out parts easier/cheaper, but you can run an ITX-sized atom/AMD E-series box as well depending on your requirements. Another option is to look into a microtik setup (check the SH/SC thread). Either way it'd be a good learning experience, and having the extra monitoring/logging/filtering options can be helpful. future ghost fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Apr 7, 2012 |
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Apr 7, 2012 01:12
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fagalicious posted:Results with these will vary based on how old the wiring is in your house. if its a newer build it will probably work alright, but old houses usually have very messy and old wiring. I think I'll be okay - my building is 3 years old or so. Does anyone have a suggestion for a solid pair of Powerline adapters? Or are the ones I linked to solid?
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Apr 7, 2012 01:25
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