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Nevermind. The Modem is just being slow reporting them. Its still upstream. Attached the levels report just in case anyone can see something that looks janky. Laranzu fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Feb 21, 2018 |
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Feb 21, 2018 21:29
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Ok. Pulled out the powered splitter the Xfinity installation tech was all gung-ho about and it improved SNR and got rid of the thousands of uncorrected errors. Seems like the splitter was being a bit overzealous with trying to boost the power, but also caused enough SNR issues to make it lose sync.
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Feb 21, 2018 23:03
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Thermopyle posted:Is there a specific type of Cat6 I should get for aerial usage? I assume something UV-resistant. Inept posted:About 6 years ago I worked for a company that wanted to do something similar. We ended up paying someone to run aerial fiber. If you run cat6 between buildings you actually have to suspend a steel support cable between the two buildings first, and then lash the cat6 to the support cable. This stuff will be fine outdoors for an aerial install. If you want to trench, you want "direct burial" cable. https://www.discount-low-voltage.com/Cable/Burial-Category-6/HL-UTP4-C6-SOLID-OUTDOOR-40
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Feb 22, 2018 06:01
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Laranzu posted:Ok. Pulled out the powered splitter the Xfinity installation tech was all gung-ho about and it improved SNR and got rid of the thousands of uncorrected errors. I haven't had cable for years, for TV or internet, I recall having these issues with signal amplifiers, some instances they helped, other times, they were not needed and in use and caused problems such as this. I don't remember you saying anything about that splitter being on the line in previous posts.
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Feb 22, 2018 15:44
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This might seem like a dumb question, but does anyone know the typical location an installation tech would put a Fiber Media Converter? I had fiber installed at my house and after the install the tech said I had 2 pre-wired Cat6 drops in the house and told me to choose a location to put their router. I chose the downstairs location for no real reason, he hooked their router up, tested speeds and left. I've replaced their router with my own, but am wanting to add an additional AP upstairs as well as some hardwired locations. The second Cat6 drop is in the master bedroom and was wired for telephone originally, I switched out the jack with an RJ45 keystone, but I can't seem to get data on the line at all. Tried both 568a and b configs and neither worked. Seems a normal fiber media converter only allows for 1 Rj45 connection and it's likely the downstairs drop is plugged into it, but the wire for the upstairs drop also goes into the installed interface box on the side of the house too, so I am guessing maybe it's just not connected to anything in there, but does that make sense, would he put the media converter in the same box where the fiber terminates? There is a power lines coming through the wall into my garage to power something there. My goal is to place my USG and a my 8 port PoE switch in the garage so that both drops get data and then I can setup my AP's and wire new drops in the house based on the upstairs location and a second switch.. Obviously their box is locked with some special star key which I don't have so I need to buy one, but wanted to make sure that made sense before I did that. I guess the only real way to find out is if I open the box though.
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Feb 22, 2018 21:22
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thebushcommander posted:This might seem like a dumb question, but does anyone know the typical location an installation tech would put a Fiber Media Converter? I had fiber installed at my house and after the install the tech said I had 2 pre-wired Cat6 drops in the house and told me to choose a location to put their router. I chose the downstairs location for no real reason, he hooked their router up, tested speeds and left. I've replaced their router with my own, but am wanting to add an additional AP upstairs as well as some hardwired locations. The second Cat6 drop is in the master bedroom and was wired for telephone originally, I switched out the jack with an RJ45 keystone, but I can't seem to get data on the line at all. Tried both 568a and b configs and neither worked. Seems a normal fiber media converter only allows for 1 Rj45 connection and it's likely the downstairs drop is plugged into it, but the wire for the upstairs drop also goes into the installed interface box on the side of the house too, so I am guessing maybe it's just not connected to anything in there, but does that make sense, would he put the media converter in the same box where the fiber terminates? There is a power lines coming through the wall into my garage to power something there. Who is your fiber provider?
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Feb 22, 2018 21:33
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derk posted:Who is your fiber provider? It's a local company called Comporium here in South Carolina it's their "Zipstream" service. I was going to call them and ask, but you're not supposed to mess with the box at all and I don't want to pay someone to come out and switch out a couple cables for me.
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Feb 22, 2018 21:35
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thebushcommander posted:It's a local company called Comporium here in South Carolina it's their "Zipstream" service. I was going to call them and ask, but you're not supposed to mess with the box at all and I don't want to pay someone to come out and switch out a couple cables for me. well, pictures of the box and what not would help, i am asuming it will be just like my FiOS box that i have opened and tinkered with
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Feb 22, 2018 21:40
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derk posted:well, pictures of the box and what not would help, i am asuming it will be just like my FiOS box that i have opened and tinkered with Yeah, I'll have to swing by lowes and grab a star key set to open it up. Hopefully it's just not hooked up, if it is then the line is probably cut somewhere in the wall which would suck.
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Feb 22, 2018 21:54
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Ubiquiti never ceases to amaze. I spent days trying to get Unifi properly installed assuming I'd need 3-4 APs to cover the whole house, but a single AP did the job. The entire house has 50/50 from the basement, first floor, second floor, to the garage, front porch, back yard, the the front lawn, back lawn, all the way 100 meters to the cul de sac's mail box. I figured I'd need 3-4 to handle the house alone. Things certainly have changed. Looks like I don't need the 2nd AP or the Cloud Key since Unifi wouldn't adopt the AP... the iOS app was sufficient to get it up and running. I'll set up the Edge Router and they'll be all set (after I call Frontier to get the Ethernet WAN enabled)
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Feb 23, 2018 02:52
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If you tried to use the phone app to set up the AP first, the Unifi controller won't be able to adopt the AP without a factory reset. I made that mistake with mine the first time trying setup. After I reset the AP and used the controller to adopt it, everything went smoothly. Use the Cloud Key controller, it's worth it!
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Feb 23, 2018 15:40
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derk posted:well, pictures of the box and what not would help, i am asuming it will be just like my FiOS box that i have opened and tinkered with Got the tamper-proof star key to open the box this morning and it's very much like a FiOS setup. There were two ethernet ports on the media converter in the box and the line for my upstairs drop wasn't connected to anything, nor did it have an rj45 connector on it, so I wired it up and plugged it in. Signal passed over the line to my PC upstairs now, but apparently I am only allowed 1 lease so I had to unplug the connector in the first port for my PC to acquire an IP. So looks like I'll be moving some things around today. Oddly, in the two months I've had the service this is the first time I've connected it to something (my pc) that can actually utilize the gigabit speeds, there is something satisfying about a speedtest showing 950/935 mbps even if 90% of the servers I download things from can't reach that type of speed for a single user.
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Feb 23, 2018 17:55
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PitViper posted:Use the Cloud Key controller, it's worth it! Yeah my buddy just bought a cloud key for like $40. It's totally worth it. I paid $70 for mine and I'm still totally happy about it.
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Feb 23, 2018 23:35
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PitViper posted:If you tried to use the phone app to set up the AP first, the Unifi controller won't be able to adopt the AP without a factory reset. I made that mistake with mine the first time trying setup. After I reset the AP and used the controller to adopt it, everything went smoothly. Can confirm did this by accident as well
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Feb 24, 2018 01:24
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Moved to a new apartment. There's like thirty access points all across the spectrum. Anything I can do to raise SNR of my own AP especially in 2.4 range? Or do I just blast as much signal as allowable by law?
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Feb 24, 2018 02:37
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Alpha Mayo posted:Moved to a new apartment. There's like thirty access points all across the spectrum. Anything I can do to raise SNR of my own AP especially in 2.4 range? Or do I just blast as much signal as allowable by law? Find a relatively quiet channel (1, 6, or 11) and blast away. A better approach would be to get a couple access points to cover everything with 5GHz signal though.
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Feb 24, 2018 02:50
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Alpha Mayo posted:Moved to a new apartment. There's like thirty access points all across the spectrum. Anything I can do to raise SNR of my own AP especially in 2.4 range? Or do I just blast as much signal as allowable by law? The best thing to do is to move as much as possible to 5ghz. After that, use an app like Wifi Analyzer to pick a 2.4ghz channel that has the least congestion for your remaining devices that don't have 5ghz support.
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Feb 24, 2018 02:55
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Alpha Mayo posted:Moved to a new apartment. There's like thirty access points all across the spectrum. Anything I can do to raise SNR of my own AP especially in 2.4 range? Or do I just blast as much signal as allowable by law? Faraday cage? Personally I'd dump 2.4 entirely if possible. Otherwise just get a Mikrotik RB-something or other and crank it up to 1w and piss everyone off.
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Feb 24, 2018 03:19
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An area crowded with wifi is where 2.4 and 5 really show their differences. Get everything you can onto 5.
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Feb 24, 2018 04:02
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I just moved to a new house with a new ISP. I was having issues with needing to gently caress around with my modem every single time I turned my computer on, but some googling, I found a command prompt line, "netsh int ip reset resetlog.txt", and that works after a restart. But I have to do that every single time i start my PC. Meaning, turn on, do that command, restart, and then I can use the internet. What else can I try?
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Feb 26, 2018 10:03
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underage at the vape shop posted:I just moved to a new house with a new ISP. I was having issues with needing to gently caress around with my modem every single time I turned my computer on, but some googling, I found a command prompt line, "netsh int ip reset resetlog.txt", and that works after a restart. But I have to do that every single time i start my PC. Meaning, turn on, do that command, restart, and then I can use the internet. What else can I try? Do you have a router?
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Feb 26, 2018 10:12
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Rexxed posted:Do you have a router? its still in use at the other house. its annoying because my phone just works, guess ill put up with it and see what happens when i can bring the router but i was hoping there'd be something i can do. There are people in the house working for apple from home and apple are super antsy about moving
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Feb 26, 2018 10:23
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underage at the vape shop posted:its still in use at the other house. its annoying because my phone just works, guess ill put up with it and see what happens when i can bring the router but i was hoping there'd be something i can do. There are people in the house working for apple from home and apple are super antsy about moving I don't really know what's causing your issue but cablemodems usually like to be connected to a device with the same mac address all of the time. Usually turning it off and on again shouldn't mess that up, but 99.999999% of people have a router hooked to the modem so they can serve their internet connection to more than one PC and use wifi, firewall things, etc. Those routers stay on pretty much all of the time so you may have a weird modem that just likes for devices to be always on or have them re-request DHCP or something (which it should do while booting up, really). I'd just pick up a new router if the old one is business-essential. There's a lot of them under $100 that are good quality. Check the OP. Also remember this when buying routers: 
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Feb 26, 2018 10:41
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The old router has to come eventually. I might gently caress around with an old modem tonight as a stopgap router, I've got an adsl one that has its own wifi I think. That router looks like isengard
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Feb 26, 2018 11:35
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Yeah those high end routers are rarely worth their price over a good router and wireless AP from Ubiquiti or somewhere.
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Feb 26, 2018 15:45
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I have what is probably a really dumb question. I’ve never had a switch before but I’m going to be running a bunch of cat6 cables around the house in few months and I’m curious: will my router see everything on the switch as a connected device or just the switch? It doesn’t matter really because the switch will be managed, I just want to know and can’t test it myself yet or figure it out with google. Also I’ll have a 24 port switch so this isn’t likely to be a problem any time soon, but in the future is there any reason to avoid using my router’s own ports if I run out of ports?
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Feb 27, 2018 09:20
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realbez posted:I have what is probably a really dumb question. I’ve never had a switch before but I’m going to be running a bunch of cat6 cables around the house in few months and I’m curious: will my router see everything on the switch as a connected device or just the switch? It doesn’t matter really because the switch will be managed, I just want to know and can’t test it myself yet or figure it out with google. The router is also a switch internally but just with the LAN ports on the back. Like the 24 port switch and most switches, it will keep a table of MAC addresses it can reach through particular ports so it knows which ports to switch traffic between. This is at a lower level than TCP/IP. So in a sense, yes, everything on the network will see everything else. The MAC address table for each device is limited but not small (larger than a home network). The only reason to avoid using ports on different switches is if you want multiple high bandwidth transfers between devices on the different switches. Each switch can internally keep all the devices on it at gigabit speeds, but if you have a device A on switch 1 which is attached to switch 2, and device A is talking to a device B which is on switch 2, then they will be using the single uplink connection between the switches. That's fine and will run full speed for one device, but you will max out the bandwidth eventually if you add in Device C on switch 1 talking to Device D on switch 2 and everything would have less bandwidth. I probably explained that poorly but I think you will get the idea if you think of it as everything going over the one cable between the two switches. Bear in mind that for general use this is fine, this specific situation is usually going to come up if you're moving large files between multiple devices on your network at the same time and those devices are located on different switches that only have a 1 gigabit connection between them. For general internet use it's basically inconsequential.
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Feb 27, 2018 09:51
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Finished wiring up my house and was trying to find a new piece of equipment to finish off the job; hoping to get advice. Simplified network diagram: (In garage) ADSL Modem/Router | | | V Switch | | (cat6 in the walls) | |-------------------------------------- |...... |..........|........|............| |various rooms with stuff wired up | | SOMETHING Where something is I want to put some sort of switch/accesspoint with gigabit and wifi. I want to plug in at least 3 devices into it and since it's at the extreme end of the house it needs to put out wifi for stuff to connect to. I want it to be a dumb switch to just keep the ADSL M/R to be doing the DHCP work for the whole shebang. I found the Netgear WAC104-100AUS, is this a decent thing to use? Hardpressed finding stuff to put there that has gigabit eth ports and wifi that's not a router.
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Feb 27, 2018 10:40
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So, at this new house, we have plugs in the wall. But there doesn't seem to be an ovious place that they all end. Is there any way to figure that out without following it through the wall/roof?
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Feb 27, 2018 12:26
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Short of asking the house builder, not really. Is there a box on the outside of the house for cable companies to use? Is there a metal cabinet recessed into the wall in a utility area that is used as a home wiring hub?
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Feb 27, 2018 13:13
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Rexxed posted:The router is also a switch internally but just with the LAN ports on the back. Like the 24 port switch and most switches, it will keep a table of MAC addresses it can reach through particular ports so it knows which ports to switch traffic between. This is at a lower level than TCP/IP. So in a sense, yes, everything on the network will see everything else. The MAC address table for each device is limited but not small (larger than a home network). You're generally going to hit a limit within the switch too, that's less than the full wire speed of all of the ports on a switch.
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Feb 27, 2018 14:01
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iajanus posted:Finished wiring up my house and was trying to find a new piece of equipment to finish off the job; hoping to get advice. I think you probably just want a wireless router and turn off the routing/DHCP functions - then it will be a switch + wifi AP. Or buy a switch and hang an AP off the end of it along with the other wired devices.
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Feb 27, 2018 14:49
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thiazi posted:I think you probably just want a wireless router and turn off the routing/DHCP functions - then it will be a switch + wifi AP. Or buy a switch and hang an AP off the end of it along with the other wired devices. I've got old wifi routers but none have the combination of things I want (that's what I've been experimenting with); happy to get a recommendation of something that isn't too expensive but that will do the job.
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Feb 27, 2018 14:59
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iajanus posted:I've got old wifi routers but none have the combination of things I want (that's what I've been experimenting with); happy to get a recommendation of something that isn't too expensive but that will do the job. What's expensive to you? I'd personally recommend any $25 5-port gigabit switch and a $75 Unifi AP-AC-Lite access point. But most any modern consumer wifi router (e.g. Archer C7) will also have 4-port gigE and wifi, and can probably be had for $50-75.
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Feb 27, 2018 15:09
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Is there a way to force a wireless client to a particular AP from within the unifi controller? My printer is making some very bad decisions and is insisting on connecting to the AP 200' away in the steel faraday cage of a workshop from which it gets minimal signal at best, instead of going with the really strong signal from the AP in the other room.
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Feb 27, 2018 17:20
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Bad Munki posted:Is there a way to force a wireless client to a particular AP from within the unifi controller? My printer is making some very bad decisions and is insisting on connecting to the AP 200' away in the steel faraday cage of a workshop from which it gets minimal signal at best, instead of going with the really strong signal from the AP in the other room. Making a new SSID will do it.
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Feb 27, 2018 17:22
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I guess I could have clarified, I still want one grand seamless wifi network. I just want my printer to be less dumb.  I guess maybe I'll just play with turning the radio down in the shop a bit, shouldn't cause any problems within the shop itself. e: Yeah actually, I'm a dummy, that should have been my first approach probably. Turned it down to low and now everything's fine, and it doesn't look like it affected the signal strength of any of the clients within the shop itself. Problem solved! Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Feb 27, 2018 |
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Feb 27, 2018 17:26
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Printers and smart TVs seem notoriously terrible at not realising that networks can have more than one AP, so they list every radio they can see with the same SSID, and never bother to connect to anything other than the physical device they were connected to when originally set up.
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Feb 27, 2018 18:23
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AP switching is generally handled client-side, and some clients are really stupid about which APs it wants to stay connected to.
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Feb 27, 2018 18:35
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Well, turning down the power in the shop is a perfectly acceptable solution here. Optimal, even, as I don't want anything outside the shop or the house to use either of those APs, since I'll have a nice big exterior one for that once I can get the ladder out. In fact, I may end up turning down the ones in the house as well, for the same reasons.
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Feb 27, 2018 18:37
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