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I guess legal is true enough, what's the technical aspect? Just someone taking up all of your bandwidth downloading 3d Overwatch hentai? I just want to be a helpful guy, but people ruin everything 
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Jun 10, 2018 18:29
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Is it for your friends/guests? Or people sitting in your front yard that you don't know?
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Jun 10, 2018 18:55
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I guess legal is true enough, what's the technical aspect? Just someone taking up all of your bandwidth downloading 3d Overwatch hentai? On the technical side, some will only allow a bandwidth limit for the entire guest network, not for individual devices. So if you had some rando using your bandwidth your friends and family would be feeling it. That's really it, there's not much else to worry about, that I know of, from the technical side. You'd theoretically be increasing your vulnerability footprint, but I'm not going to claim to know enough about networking security at that level to say it's a risk worth worrying about. Unless you're trying to provide internet access to homeless folks or something, it's probably easier just to have friends and family enter a password.
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Jun 10, 2018 19:10
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Thanks to Russian hackers, an outdated, end of life router, and the helpful OP, I bought a new Archer C5. I have a generic wireless N adapter on my PC and I think a 50mbps service from Comcast. Is there a new 5G adapter I should be buying or would it not matter a whole bunch except for LAN stuff? If so, any recommendations, or would a generic like this work just dandy? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B...Z9sL&ref=plSrch
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Jun 10, 2018 19:33
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Don’t bother
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Jun 10, 2018 19:55
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Internet Explorer posted:On the technical side, some will only allow a bandwidth limit for the entire guest network, not for individual devices. So if you had some rando using your bandwidth your friends and family would be feeling it. That's really it, there's not much else to worry about, that I know of, from the technical side. You'd theoretically be increasing your vulnerability footprint, but I'm not going to claim to know enough about networking security at that level to say it's a risk worth worrying about. It was more just to be a nice neighbor because what the gently caress am I going to be doing with a whole gigabit and I figured I could set up QoS to prevent overuse. The place I’m moving is a HOA developement out of the way of anywhere, so theres not going to be random passers by, but there is the legal liability aspect still, I guess. I just know that when my connection has poo poo the bed for some reason or another I would have loved an open network to work on while trying to fix it.
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Jun 10, 2018 23:56
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I mean, you could still do it. Pretty much all Comcast installs create a guest network that is VLANed off for other Comcast customers to connect to. I assume at that point they are doing what's necessary to track who is actually using it and that covers the legal side. If you had a guest portal I assume you could throw some EULA in there to help absolve you of issues, otherwise I imagine anywhere that offered open wifi would have a problem. It's more the lovely state of our legal system in that you would have to spend money defending yourself. Plus like, if someone was on your network downloading child porn... that's not really an accusation you want to have to defend yourself against. And just an FYI, it's not really possible for home users to use QoS to control their downloads. Your ISP is going to throw whatever your clients are requesting at you, it does not care what QoSing your router is doing. Uploads yes, downloads not really. Common misconception. It can be different at the business level if your ISP provides that service.
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Jun 11, 2018 01:08
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Bought a modem and router thanks to the OP. Only after paying Spectrum 960 dollars to lease a dual purpose device.
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Jun 11, 2018 03:16
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Dogen posted:Turn on UPnP, according to internet it’s an option under advanced Apparently, it's already on. (It's checked.) I hit Apply anyway. Still Type 2 NAT (moderate). Any other ideas, maybe? :\
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Jun 11, 2018 23:24
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Internet Explorer posted:And just an FYI, it's not really possible for home users to use QoS to control their downloads. Your ISP is going to throw whatever your clients are requesting at you, it does not care what QoSing your router is doing. Uploads yes, downloads not really. Common misconception. It can be different at the business level if your ISP provides that service. Applying QoS on the downstream is actually effective for well-behaved TCP traffic, since dropped/unacknowledged packets cause the sender to slow transmission. It won't help you if you're being DDoS'd or for UDP traffic, because as you say, your ISP is going to deliver all traffic destined for your clients through your pipe, but web browsing/streaming/torrents and such respond well to queueing.
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Jun 12, 2018 05:26
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SamDabbers posted:Applying QoS on the downstream is actually effective for well-behaved TCP traffic, since dropped/unacknowledged packets cause the sender to slow transmission. It won't help you if you're being DDoS'd or for UDP traffic, because as you say, your ISP is going to deliver all traffic destined for your clients through your pipe, but web browsing/streaming/torrents and such respond well to queueing. I'm more than happy to admit that the intricacies are beyond my understanding, but I have worked with quite a few people who I felt were skilled network engineers who seemed to think it was either impossible or unworkable from a practical perspective. From some brief research (one example) it seems like it's not a topic a lot of people agree on. I have always worked at places that either had more than enough bandwidth or had an ISP that would do QoSing upstream. Sounds like something I need to get more familiar with. On the list it goes!
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Jun 12, 2018 06:10
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SamDabbers posted:Applying QoS on the downstream is actually effective for well-behaved TCP traffic, since dropped/unacknowledged packets cause the sender to slow transmission. Dropped packets also frequently results in failed transfers or broken sessions, so sure, go ahead and police your inbound traffic.
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Jun 12, 2018 09:01
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CrazyLittle posted:Dropped packets also frequently results in failed transfers or broken sessions, so sure, go ahead and police your inbound traffic. Which side of the link the packets are dropped on shouldn't make any difference. In the case of most residential connections, the ISP is queueing and policing to your subscribed rate on their equipment. It works just the same as queueing your upstream; set your rate slightly lower and your queue becomes the bottleneck. Using an AQM like fq_codel/fq_pie/cake on downstream as well as upstream helps keep latency down and throughput high for all flows during congestion. Again, it won't help for non-TCP traffic, but web browsing/video streaming/file transfer traffic is pretty much all TCP.
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Jun 12, 2018 12:56
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SamDabbers posted:Which side of the link the packets are dropped on shouldn't make any difference. In the case of most residential connections, the ISP is queueing and policing to your subscribed rate on their equipment. It works just the same as queueing your upstream; set your rate slightly lower and your queue becomes the bottleneck. Using an AQM like fq_codel/fq_pie/cake on downstream as well as upstream helps keep latency down and throughput high for all flows during congestion. Again, it won't help for non-TCP traffic, but web browsing/video streaming/file transfer traffic is pretty much all TCP. I was going to say this. The QoS algo and its config makes a large difference in whether its an effective thing to implement on downstream bandwidth. Use fq_codel or the like with bandwidth set slightly below your max, and you won't be breaking sessions or anything. I've been using fq_codel (aka smart queue) for a year or so now and monitor various net connection metrics dumped into influxdb and piped into grafana...it's fine.
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Jun 12, 2018 15:14
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Feenix posted:Apparently, it's already on. (It's checked.) I hit Apply anyway. Still Type 2 NAT (moderate). Any other ideas, maybe? :\ Type 2 should be ok unless you’re having problems.
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Jun 12, 2018 23:43
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Feenix posted:Apparently, it's already on. (It's checked.) I hit Apply anyway. Still Type 2 NAT (moderate). Any other ideas, maybe? :\ Type 2 just means your ps4 is connected to the internet through a router. Type 2 is what it should show, given you are using a router. It is good and proper.
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Jun 13, 2018 02:21
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Dogen posted:Type 2 should be ok unless you’re having problems. Yes I’m an idiot. I haven’t paid attention to NAT type in decades and then the Crew 2 Beta warned me I had NAT type 2 and it may affect things and it got me thinking that was the bad one and I totally forgot type 1 was like “ no loving router”.
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Jun 13, 2018 03:54
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I just know that when my connection has poo poo the bed for some reason or another I would have loved an open network to work on while trying to fix it. Both(all) faucets fail when there’s no water from the meter, etc...
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Jun 14, 2018 16:25
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I think that's what he meant, he wished he could've piggybacked on his neighbor's wifi, and wants to help anyone nearby in that particular situation. Reality is you will mostly get people who don't want to be on their own network for any reason (cost, avoiding parental filters, doing illegal or dumb poo poo) or people who just have no idea which network is actually theirs and connect to yours because "it works".
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Jun 14, 2018 19:28
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Some ISPs will turn on a public open hotspot if you use their bundled router, and in exchange for not disabling it you can use other people's hotspots free of charge. But this is generally tunneled back to your provider so the traffic never shows up as being your own. It is pretty useful if you're in a reasonably well populated area and your connection goes down for whatever reason.
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Jun 14, 2018 20:29
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Comcast does that and lets you use the hotspot even if your account isn't using their own modem. There doesn't seem to be a large market share for Comcast around here though. I think the city's internet service has hit them pretty hard. In which I show that I know pretty much nothing about home networking using ethernet in the walls: I just moved in to my first house with ethernet cabling since I moved out of my parents' house. The thing is, I can't figure out where it's coming from. I know it's got to have some sort of central location somewhere, it's not like you can just plug in the modem to a coax jack, plug the Cat5e from the modem into the wall, and suddenly you have access through all of the ethernet ports throughout the house. Is there a way for me to find where it all traces to or do I just have to crawl through the attic and look in every single possible location until I find where they go?
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Jun 17, 2018 03:57
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Comcast does that and lets you use the hotspot even if your account isn't using their own modem. There doesn't seem to be a large market share for Comcast around here though. I think the city's internet service has hit them pretty hard. There's really no way to figure out where the patch panel would be without just looking all around. It may be near where the coax or fiber comes in from the outside, or it may just be in a closet or attic or something. You'd usually put at least a switch by the patch panel so it will be somewhere with power as well. Bear in mind that some houses may have cat3/5 telephone cables sometimes, too, because people who do house wiring are weird. When my father renovated a place in the 70s his friend who wired everything ran like 10 or 12 pair cable to all the phone outlets for future use. I guess they figured in the future everyone would have a PBX in their home.
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Jun 17, 2018 06:28
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Take the front off one of the outlets, if there’s two Cat5e/Cat6 cables punched down into each keystone then feel free to start crying because someone has just daisy chained everything together. Normally they’d go back to a cabinet that also has coax in for TV, perhaps in the basement or outside where other utilities are connected. Do you have anything that looks like this https://www.leviton.com/en/products/residential/networking/inside-the-structured-media-enclosure
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Jun 17, 2018 08:49
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I have that daisy chained bullshit where 3 phone faceplates are all daisy chained together via cat6 in my flat down south, how do I use it? Thus far I have been using powerline networking...
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Jun 17, 2018 09:26
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Each ethernet jack needs to connect to another jack or plug that plugs into a switch or other powered device, which is why each cable should go from the outlet to a central area where it's in a punch down block (plate full of ethernet jacks) so you can plug them all into a switch. Daisy chaining stuff together is for telephone. You'd probably need to run a lot of new wire unless you just wanted to treat it as a patch cable between where the outlets are located.
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Jun 17, 2018 09:36
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Ripping up my previous shopping list to just make sure its all compatible, but daaaamn this is expensive. Am I doing this wrong buying from Amazon? I need international shipping so that's why.
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Jun 17, 2018 10:31
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You're paying a fair bit extra to get the UAP-AC-PRO with its PoE injector - this listing has it without and I think that's OK since the switch has PoE. Recent revisions of the Lite model are also standard PoE compatible and would be even cheaper, but they're 2x2 instead of 3x3. This may have already been discussed but the cloud key is optional - you can run the server temporarily on a desktop or laptop to configure everything and then just bring it back up if you need to change the configuration. Otherwise looks good to me.
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Jun 17, 2018 15:03
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Thanks - unfortunately the sans PoE injector options seem to be from third party sellers that won't ship international otherwise I would have gone for them. CloudKey just because because because...although it does feel dumb to have it hanging off the switch and taking a port unnecessarily. I wish they just sold a more expensive version of the switch/usg that just had it built in.
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Jun 17, 2018 15:21
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headlight posted:I wish they just sold a more expensive version of the switch/usg that just had it built in. That kind of defeats the purpose though. The whole idea of UniFi gear is that it's centrally managed from a controller that's separate from any of the actual network devices.
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Jun 17, 2018 15:38
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Thanks Ants posted:Take the front off one of the outlets, if there’s two Cat5e/Cat6 cables punched down into each keystone then feel free to start crying because someone has just daisy chained everything together. Funny enough, I had looked in the basement yesterday. Then just 20 minutes ago while I was taking boxes down I noticed a bundle of wires that looked suspiciously like Cat5. I traced it back to a panel under the stairs and there it was. That also explains why the room I was trying to hook up in wasn’t working. The coax cable labeled for the room we were in was unplugged. Now I just have to figure out what goes where in this unlabeled mess of UTP, and why the hell I’m not seeing anywhere for external power to be brought in.
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Jun 17, 2018 16:49
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Rexxed posted:Each ethernet jack needs to connect to another jack or plug that plugs into a switch or other powered device, which is why each cable should go from the outlet to a central area where it's in a punch down block (plate full of ethernet jacks) so you can plug them all into a switch. This is exactly how my house up north has it done, and it works perfectly. Rexxed posted:Daisy chaining stuff together is for telephone. You'd probably need to run a lot of new wire unless you just wanted to treat it as a patch cable between where the outlets are located. Ah right, yeah, a long patch cable is absolutely not what I need. Sticking with powerline for now then. Why a builder thinks its a good idea to do this daisy chain bullshit in a newbuild flat is ridiculous.
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Jun 17, 2018 17:26
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You could terminate each daisy-chained outlet as two outlets and add a switch at each point you want a wired connection, and a short patch cable to loop the two points together at each point you don't need to connect a device.
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Jun 17, 2018 17:45
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Rexxed posted:Bear in mind that some houses may have cat3/5 telephone cables sometimes, too, because people who do house wiring are weird. That's not weird. It makes potential future needs easy to meet with barely any present cost.
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Jun 17, 2018 23:46
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Thermopyle posted:That's not weird. If they're daisy-chaining telephone jacks together with it, I'd say it's less "futureproofing" and more "we were able to get a shitton of Cat5 for cheap and are using that instead of phone grade wire".
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Jun 18, 2018 00:43
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Oh yeah, you're right. I missed the daisy chaining part. Still not weird really. Simplifying job site logistics by having fewer wire types is a legit smart thing.
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Jun 18, 2018 01:15
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source: I spent a past life running a home building company!
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Jun 18, 2018 01:16
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Comcast does that and lets you use the hotspot even if your account isn't using their own modem. There doesn't seem to be a large market share for Comcast around here though. I think the city's internet service has hit them pretty hard. if they are being used for phone or ethernet or nothing, the wires will lead somewhere. As others have said check the phone box inside the house or there may be a media center. My house was built two years ago and the previous renters only had comcast, in my case the wires were tied up and hanging off the ceiling in the basement and all the jacks were phone and cable tv with the phone jack unwired. You could ask your landlord and see if he/she/it knows Are there any routers that can support 1 gig of bandwidth now (other than a PC)?
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Jun 18, 2018 01:46
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Initialization Error A12 on one of my EdgeSwitches out of the box...RMA time?
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Jun 18, 2018 07:43
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A box of Cat5 is easier to pick up at an electrical wholesaler than a reel of telephone cable
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Jun 18, 2018 11:03
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I just want a sanity check, and make sure I'm not crazy for wanting to run cat6/6a in a house over cat5e. We're closing on our new house in a couple months, and my winter project will be pulling a pair of ethernet jacks to all the bedrooms, office, living room, and garage. I'm looking at a total of 14-18 drops, nothing much over 50-75' from patch panel to keystone. I've got a single Unifi AP-AC-PRO that will be ceiling mounted on the second floor which will probably be supplemented by a second AP in the basement depending on how the first AP covers. I'm leaning towards 6/6a, only because I'd like to do this once and have some sort of upgradeability past gigabit. Current gear is all gigabit, but having the overhead to swap gear and get 5gbit/10gbit over the same wiring seems like it's worth the added up front cost for 6a cable/keystones/patch panel. Lastly, is Monoprice still a good source for cable? That's where I ordered all my cable and patch panel/keystones for my last project, and that all worked perfectly fine.
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Jun 18, 2018 16:06
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