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I assume you meant green triangle instead of red at the end, and that's doable enough. First though let me ask; I assume this is new construction and the trees will be removed? How are you getting electricity ran to the new pod? There is wireless bridge attenas if you have a clear line of sight but you can also run cat6 100 meters before you start to run into issues. If you're running electricity from the house to a new construction I'd imagine running cabling at the same time would be your best bet.
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Nov 24, 2020 03:41
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Yeah, just run a new Ethernet cable, or something like this - https://www.primuscable.com/collections/bundled-cable
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Nov 24, 2020 04:28
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Cyks posted:I assume you meant green triangle instead of red at the end, and that's doable enough. Cyks posted:First though let me ask; I assume this is new construction and the trees will be removed? How are you getting electricity ran to the new pod? There is an external power outlet on the pod, I assume we'll be running an extension cord from the garage (which has power) to the pod. Cyks posted:There is wireless bridge attenas if you have a clear line of sight but you can also run cat6 100 meters before you start to run into issues. If you're running electricity from the house to a new construction I'd imagine running cabling at the same time would be your best bet. 1. Get my ISP or a Sparky to run the wires from my Antenna through the house->Garage->Pod (there is a weather sealed cord running from the house to the garage at the two nearest corners for power that I assume they can just buddy up with) then run Cat 6 back to the house from the pod for all the house stuff. 2. Continue the Cat 6 that is run from from Red Star to Red Diamond to continue through to the Garage and Pod. Looten Plunder fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Nov 24, 2020 |
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Nov 24, 2020 04:47
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Hello thread, I need help picking out a new router: My apartment is small and I don't need anything fancy Wi-Fi wise, but my biggest issue is that we have multiple consoles that have difficulty communicating with each other. I'm pretty sure my router is just old enough that it doesn't handle the ports or whatever very well, but I want to make sure my new router is up to the task. Is there anything in particular I should look for, feature wise? Any recommendations? Budget is not a particular issue but I don't need something powerful, just needs to work. edit: I got impatient and and picked up a NetGear R6400. Did a crash course on routers, learned that my issues are probably NAT and Upnp related. Did a little research, some people have reported that the r6400 has a fairly decent implementation of Upnp for multiple gaming consoles, and it matches my speed/range requirements. Also, the mid-range price means if it doesn't fix my issue I can keep it and try running multiple routers instead. D1Sergo fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Nov 26, 2020 |
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Nov 26, 2020 00:32
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If I was to go down the route of replacing all my hardware for Ubiquiti products for my situation (post from previous page linked here for reference) what do I need to get?
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Nov 26, 2020 02:13
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I pulled the trigger on an ASUS ZenWIFI AX (XT8) two pack. There are four people in my house that now spend all day video conferencing so I upgraded my cable internet to a 500 Mbps plan. Unfortunately my house doesn't have in wall ethernet cables and the cable providers wireless router didn't provide a great signal to the bedrooms from the access point. In particular this led to several dropped connections in my son's room during the school day. It was trivial to setup the ZenWIFI, though you do need to install their bluetooth app, and now I'm getting ~750 Mbps wirelessly at the node and around ~500 Mbps in the corners of the house. It even reaches out into the yard with 'good enough' coverage around 40 Mbps for next summer when lounging in a hammock. So far I have not noticed any drops when wandering around the house but I'm also not walking around watching videos. We probably have around 15 devices on the network between laptops, desktops, tablets, phones, printers and etc... I turned off the 2.5 GHz and 5 GHz radios in the cable providers modem.
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Nov 26, 2020 15:05
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Murgos posted:I pulled the trigger on an ASUS ZenWIFI AX (XT8) two pack. There are four people in my house that now spend all day video conferencing so I upgraded my cable internet to a 500 Mbps plan. Unfortunately my house doesn't have in wall ethernet cables and the cable providers wireless router didn't provide a great signal to the bedrooms from the access point. In particular this led to several dropped connections in my son's room during the school day. I'm planning to buy the Zenwifi AX. I am waiting to see if it is in any BF sales and so far it hasn't been. I'm buying it tomorrow price drop or not. My wife and I are going all in on our home office situation. Been slowly making improvements. Last night I ordered an Uplift Desk and next up in the Asus Zenwifi AX
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Nov 26, 2020 15:29
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Looten Plunder posted:There is an external power outlet on the pod, I assume we'll be running an extension cord from the garage (which has power) to the pod. This seems questionable since I'm assuming the load on the pod will be significant (everything in it plus HVAC?) and extension cords are usually poo poo. But that's getting into the wiring thread. Looten Plunder posted:If I was to go down the route of replacing all my hardware for Ubiquiti products for my situation (post from previous page linked here for reference) what do I need to get? If you want an all-Unifi experience, I'd maybe look at the Unifi Dream Machine for in the pod since that covers routing, wired, and wireless all in one box, and is certainly enough coverage for inside a single structure. Or if you really want to separate devices there, a Unifi Security Gateway or a UDM Pro, plus whatever access point you end up going with for the other two locations. If you don't care if your router is the odd one out with a completely different UI, the EdgeRouter X is a solid router for all of $60. Run two ethernet cables back from whichever location in the pod you put the main router, to red star. One will connect to your existing ISP's connection so you don't need to move the antenna, the other can connect to your existing local wired network in the house. Stick a USW Flex Mini on the house end and you'll have wired ports to hang more access points on. As far as APs, the UAP-nanoHD is probably your best bet.
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Nov 26, 2020 15:43
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Looten Plunder posted:If I was to go down the route of replacing all my hardware for Ubiquiti products for my situation (post from previous page linked here for reference) what do I need to get? Setting aside the cabling needs, I would agree with the last poster on the UDM (which would include one of the wireless access points), or if you have use for it for say cameras, UDM Pro option (doesn't have a built in access point, so add one of the following for this location if you go this route). I'm assuming this is a home btw. For the wireless access point I would consider an inwall HD access points, which I mostly recommend because it's also a 5 port hub for your TV and smart devices. The same could be used for your future new building. Nano HDs or Flex HDs are the access point only alternatives and well liked. Just in case you must connect the two buildings wirelessly, this can do a fixed line of site wireless link. EDIT: Re-read a couple of times but not fully sure I understand the references to the "pod". I'm assuming it's some sort of second building. If you're ISP's wiring (be that fibre, cable, phone etc) terminates in the main building, it may make more sense to continue to have it there, say just a router, even if you have your main network gear elsewhere (e.g. switch, home servers etc), provided there is an Ethernet connection between them. You could have them physically moved by an ISP or Telecom Provider but I would think this is costly. EDIT again: Disclaimer that I'm recommending what I currently like. I've been called out before as a unifi fan, and rightfully so, I do recommend listening to a few of the alternative opinions. THIRD EDIT: No links, but don't forget you'll need PoE of some kind for the access points. PoE Injectors or one of the UniFi Range of PoE switches are the way to go. Rooted Vegetable fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Nov 26, 2020 |
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Nov 26, 2020 18:39
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I have a TM-AC1900 (Asus RT-AC68U with Tmo branding IIRC) that I've flashed with Merlin and a tenda nova 3-pack mesh b/c the signal in the some parts of the house was crap. The nova mesh worked ok for a couple of years and the router has worked well for 5+ but I've started having wierd DNS query dropout issues since we lost power from Zeta and the router is old enough that it's time for an upgrade anyway. Given that I cannot substantially change the location of the router or run ethernet, and that I only want to spend $100ish, that I doubt any of our current devices are Wifi6, we have <10 smart devices including TVs, and the good wirecutter reviews for the tp-link AX series, would the collective wisdom of the thread recommend: The C4000, $100 at costco for a few days, Wifi5 but supposedly longer-range than the AX20, triband The AX20 (AX1800), which was actually tested by the wirecutter and performed pretty well at range, $100 BF at amazon/$100 at walmart Spending the extra $30 for the AX50 (AX3000), which tested even better? buying something else altogether? I am very much not in favor of my internet access being through anything that requires administration from the cloud or an app (the tenda novas need an app but they're behind my router and they were dirt cheap) and I'd prefer not to have to spend too much time getting it configured right.
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Nov 26, 2020 23:21
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Looten Plunder posted:If I was to go down the route of replacing all my hardware for Ubiquiti products for my situation (post from previous page linked here for reference) what do I need to get? I personally feel like you're jumping the gun since you haven't explained some fairly basic information: - what kind of Internet service you currently have - why you think you need to move the internet uplink location from your house over to a different building (which you haven't even built yet) -how you came to the conclusion that the long cable run between the buildings should be cat6 -why you think your house needs specifically 2 APs, and that these APs need to go in the specific locations you mentioned
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Nov 26, 2020 23:47
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Has anyone used Plume Wifi Products? I'm switching my ISP from Xfinity to a local fiber gigabit company (C Spire) and was gonna jump on the Google Nest + Point deal today ($189) because I'm very invested in the Google ecosystem at home. However C Spire offers Plume Wifi for $10/month and I didn't know if that would be a decent deal or not?
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Nov 27, 2020 15:58
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BonoMan posted:Has anyone used Plume Wifi Products? I've had Plumes for a few years now. They work quite well, and the small ones reasonably sized and attractive looking. The SuperPods are kinds big, but shaped so that they don't block the other socket on a normal two-socket outlet. Performance is good, the app is pretty decent, etc. Whether it's a good deal depends a lot on what exactly they're giving you. If you're just getting two of the pods, well then you might as well just stick with your normal wifi-router and grab a second AP. If you're getting like 3-4 of the pods, then you can scatter those things everywhere and then $10/mo isn't a bad price (I think the "Superpods" are ~$100/ea, the smaller ones used to be like $60/ea, no idea what they are now).
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Nov 27, 2020 16:51
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DrDork posted:I've had Plumes for a few years now. They work quite well, and the small ones reasonably sized and attractive looking. The SuperPods are kinds big, but shaped so that they don't block the other socket on a normal two-socket outlet. Performance is good, the app is pretty decent, etc. Thanks for the input. Right now I have a dual cable/wifi router (before I knew they were crap) so I'm likely going to sell it since I'm switching over to fiber from cable and I don't really want to worry with this thing anymore. So I won't have any wifi solution (which is what I was planning on getting the Nest Wifi for). But honestly I'm just going to stick with the Plume to not spend $200 on the router at the moment. Theres a possible move in my future and I'll reevaluate my needs after that. edit: I just checked with a friend that works for C Spire (who tried to get me a referral bonus but their system is down at the moment)... it's two superpods for $10/month. Which should be fine for me - I have a 2000 sqft house
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Nov 27, 2020 17:01
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Anyone see VPN sales?
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Nov 28, 2020 08:14
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PIA keeps saying their three-year deal for $79 USD is a limited-time offer, and threatening to pull it, and they do, but then they put it right back up as a "new promotion" for whatever the most convenient bullshit reason is. Right now they're offering it as their "Black Friday Deal". I don't know that you can get any cheaper than that for peace of mind. SwissArmyDruid fucked around with this message at 12:01 on Nov 28, 2020 |
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Nov 28, 2020 11:59
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It's a little more costly than that but you could run your own wireguard node. Digital Ocean's basic droplet is $5 a month.
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Nov 28, 2020 13:56
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Rooted Vegetable posted:Setting aside the cabling needs, I would agree with the last poster on the UDM (which would include one of the wireless access points), or if you have use for it for say cameras, UDM Pro option (doesn't have a built in access point, so add one of the following for this location if you go this route). I'm assuming this is a home btw. For the wireless access point I would consider an inwall HD access points, which I mostly recommend because it's also a 5 port hub for your TV and smart devices. The same could be used for your future new building. Nano HDs or Flex HDs are the access point only alternatives and well liked. This seems like a Prime post to hijack and tag my question onto: I want to modernize my parents networking hardware. Currently they have an ancient router that provides Wi-Fi and some network ports, one of which goes to a power line extender to the other side of the house, where it feeds a ubiquiti nanostation point-ti-point that provides service to an outbuilding. So in top of replacing the router with, likely, a UDM as you recommend above, I would like to put in a Inwall HD at the downstream end of the power line extender since Wi-Fi signal is very weak at that end of the house, ideally in a painless mesh mode for the old folks. I'd retain the nanostation radio for the outbuilding, using one of the switch ports on the inwall. I realize this isn't the ideal use case for a powerline extender, probably at all. Unfortunately running cable isn't a realistic option (my preference would be to run one through the vents but it's a split zone HVAC) Are there any beefier or more robust power line extenders than the tp link model they have now? Any other alternatives to get signal down to that end of the house to feed the second access point and point-to-point?
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Nov 30, 2020 05:28
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Any recommendations on an inexpensive, small, versatile home hardware firewall? My setup is currently FIOS internet with a Google mesh WiFi throughout my condo. 3 Google WiFi mesh points in total which gives me excellent coverage in my shithole condo that acts like the walls are made of lead due to the fireproofing and poo poo in the walls and floors. With the FIOS modem/router device, I'm not able to log into it so it's basically just a cable modem that I have no control over (and I really don't care), so I'm thinking of sticking a small hardware firewall in between that and my primary Google device. I read that the BitDefender device does not work with mesh networks, and I read reviews on the Ubiquiti and Firewalla and those seem fine for around $100ish. But, looking for recommendations if anyone has used something like this. I just want a little bit more control over what comes into and out of my network.
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Nov 30, 2020 20:52
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Douchebag posted:I read that the BitDefender device does not work with mesh networks, and I read reviews on the Ubiquiti and Firewalla and those seem fine for around $100ish. Can't speak about BitDefender or Ubiquiti, but for Firewalla be aware that the $99 Red only can do up to 100Mbps. If you have something faster, you'll need an upgraded one--the $200 Blue does ~500Mbps, and you'd need the $500 Gold if you had gigabit FIOS. At those prices it'd almost make more sense to roll your own with pfSense or whatnot on commodity gear, or grab something like a NUC or miniPC if you wanted the small form factor. Protectli has their own line of small boxes with considerably better price:performance vs Firewalla, so those might be worth looking at. Even the cheapest one there can at least do gigabit routing.
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Nov 30, 2020 21:05
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Douchebag posted:Any recommendations on an inexpensive, small, versatile home hardware firewall? Why can't you log into the fios router? I've got one of the actiontecs and have used some of the newer ones for work and they all have the admin credentials printed on a tag on them.
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Nov 30, 2020 22:16
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Rexxed posted:Why can't you log into the fios router? I've got one of the actiontecs and have used some of the newer ones for work and they all have the admin credentials printed on a tag on them. I get either a bad website error for the “myfiosgateway.com” domain, or I get a screen where I can’t interact with any fields or buttons on the screen if I go directly to IP ..1.1. Maybe I need to plug directly into it I just haven’t tried.
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Dec 1, 2020 00:37
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What are you trying to do? Because an er-x is probably all you need.
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Dec 1, 2020 03:24
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H110Hawk posted:What are you trying to do? Because an er-x is probably all you need. Just add an extra, or actual, layer of security to my home network. I was previously using a decent ASUS WiFi router that had really good security features but that thing died and I haven't replaced it with anything. Not confident in just using the Verizon modem itself.
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Dec 1, 2020 14:51
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Ok y'all I have a quick question. I have a dual band router in my bedroom, and my devices in my living room seem to be just at the edge of the 5hz band's range. Normally that wouldn't be a problem, I'd just force the devices onto the 2.4Ghz band and we're good to go. But I just got a PS5 and there doesn't seem to be an option to force it to the 2.4Ghz band, so it's connecting to the 5Ghz band, having the connection cut out, and then just not re-connecting until I reboot the console. I'm going to double check my router when I get home to see if I can force it to the 5Ghz band, but in case that's not an option I was thinking about either getting a wifi extender or an outlet ethernet adapter. The only thing is, I'm not sure what's the best option between the two. I can't just run an ethernet cable from the router to the console unfortunately, otherwise I'd just do that.
Soysaucebeast fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Dec 1, 2020 |
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Dec 1, 2020 15:25
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Soysaucebeast posted:Ok y'all I have a quick question. I have a dual band router in my bedroom, and my devices in my living room seem to be just at the edge of the 5hz band's range. Normally that wouldn't be a problem, I'd just force the devices onto the 2.4Ghz band and we're good to go. But I just got a PS5 and there doesn't seem to be an option to force it to the 2.4Ghz band, so it's connecting to the 5Ghz band, having the connection cut out, and then just not re-connecting until I reboot the console. I'm going to double check my router when I get home to see if I can force it to the 5Ghz band, but in case that's not an option I was thinking about either getting a wifi extender or an outlet ethernet adapter. The only thing is, I'm not sure what's the best option between the two. I can't just run an ethernet cable from the router to the console unfortunately, otherwise I'd just do that. Wifi extenders are pretty poopy. I think your best non-ethernet options are: 1. Mesh Wifi system 2. MoCA 3. Powerline I usually stick powerline last because my experience with it, while it does work, if you need to jump over breakers the speed will be extremely slow. Since the router is in the bedroom it's likely that this will be a big issue for you.
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Dec 1, 2020 15:57
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Douchebag posted:Just add an extra, or actual, layer of security to my home network. I was previously using a decent ASUS WiFi router that had really good security features but that thing died and I haven't replaced it with anything. Not confident in just using the Verizon modem itself. What are you trying to stay secure from? What is your threat model? 99% of the security a rando inline consumer device is going to provide you is NAT, followed by a default deny inbound firewall (critical for IP6.) You're right not to trust carrier provided CPE (that verizon router) as they are almost always hot garbage. Unless you're doing TLS breaking DPI, which you aren't, or maintaining some kind of "threat intelligence stream" of malicious IPs form somewhere, your "security" device is just nat+default deny firewall. For further enhanced security disable UPnP and segregate Internet of poo poo devices from your primary network, hopefully the internet as well. An ad blocker, chrome on auto-update, and windows defender is 99% of the defense you need these days on a windows device. The same but whatever Mac's use for antivirus is the same.
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Dec 1, 2020 16:26
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H110Hawk posted:What are you trying to stay secure from? What is your threat model? Everything you said is true, but it's real nice to be able to get away from consumer-grade router/firewalls that regularly have gaping firmware security holes discovered, many of which go unpatched by the manufacturer unless they're for a newly released model or something. Though you can often accomplish the same thing by throwing OpenWRT or Tomato or whatnot onto a normal $50 router, and then at least you can be pretty sure you won't get hit with some driveby because Netgear decided to hard code a credential or something equally dumb.
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Dec 1, 2020 16:44
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DrDork posted:Everything you said is true, but it's real nice to be able to get away from consumer-grade router/firewalls that regularly have gaping firmware security holes discovered, many of which go unpatched by the manufacturer unless they're for a newly released model or something. Yup. If you have separate wifi then an er-x fits the bill very nicely at a good price point. And perhaps I glossed over it but yes throw your carrier provided router in the trash if at all possible. Sometimes you have to keep it around for dumb reasons (att) but such is life.
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Dec 1, 2020 17:06
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H110Hawk posted:And perhaps I glossed over it but yes throw your carrier provided router in the trash if at all possible. Sometimes you have to keep it around for dumb reasons (att) but such is life. Agreed. Even in the cases where you need to keep it around (AT&T, FIOS, etc) you can usually put it into bridge mode and then use your own hardware behind it. One super-awkward case I know of is Verizon FIOS with TV where you have to go to some pretty extensive lengths to be able to use your own router while still being able to get IPTV services. Ah well. But back to the actual question. I'd say in order of cost / complexity your choices are: (1) A consumer-grade router from someone like Netgear, DLink, whatever, preferably flashed to OpenWRT. (~$50) (2) Protectli (~$200) (3) Ubiquiti (~$300) (4) Roll your own ($?? can be <$100 or >$400 depending on what you want)
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Dec 1, 2020 17:22
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DrDork posted:Agreed. Even in the cases where you need to keep it around (AT&T, FIOS, etc) you can usually put it into bridge mode and then use your own hardware behind it. One super-awkward case I know of is Verizon FIOS with TV where you have to go to some pretty extensive lengths to be able to use your own router while still being able to get IPTV services. Ah well. For IPTV I assume you mean the on demand sorta stuff? If you have 1 TV then you can use a cablecard. I assume a single stb works as well. As asked I think it is a naively asked question and think that you are selling short the $65 er-x option.  without more insight into our intrepid posters goals we don't know what they need yet.
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Dec 1, 2020 17:36
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Yeah, for on-demand / TV Guide sort of stuff. Even with a STB / card the issue is that the data pathway is convoluted and apparently depends specifically on coax injection functionality within the Verizon-provided FIOS modem/router combo box to do IPTV, even if the TV/STB/card has network access via other means. So you end up needing a separate MoCA adapter to keep it working, or doing some fun trickery where you bridge the Verizon router over to your actual router, and then pass a second data cable back to the Verizon router to use as a data pathway for the coax, which then gets injected back over to the STB. But yeah, the ER-X is a decent little box if it meets your needs and you like Ubiquiti.
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Dec 1, 2020 17:50
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DrDork posted:Yeah, for on-demand / TV Guide sort of stuff. Even with a STB / card the issue is that the data pathway is convoluted and apparently depends specifically on coax injection functionality within the Verizon-provided FIOS modem/router combo box to do IPTV, even if the TV/STB/card has network access via other means. So you end up needing a separate MoCA adapter to keep it working, or doing some fun trickery where you bridge the Verizon router over to your actual router, and then pass a second data cable back to the Verizon router to use as a data pathway for the coax, which then gets injected back over to the STB.  I just have a TiVo thankfully so I don't have to do any of that stupidity. Coax from ont to TiVo, ethernet from ont to er-x. Ethernet from er-x to TiVo (et al.)
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Dec 1, 2020 18:00
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H110Hawk posted:
90% of my experience is in Linux and Mac and I’ve never ever seen anyone use an antivirus, I don’t even know what that would be since I’ve never needed to google it.
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Dec 1, 2020 19:10
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Kind of having a weird issue here with a new Wireguard install. Has anyone successfully gotten it to work so that you can access other devices on the host LAN, like say a computer's SMB share (provided that computer is not the Wireguard host device)?
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Dec 1, 2020 21:09
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tuyop posted:Kind of having a weird issue here with a new Wireguard install. Has anyone successfully gotten it to work so that you can access other devices on the host LAN, like say a computer's SMB share (provided that computer is not the Wireguard host device)? Are the clients connecting to the VPN on a different subnet to the host LAN? Is there a route back from the host LAN to the VPN one? You may either have to add a route to VPN subnet, or use NAT on the VPN clients to pretend to be on the host LAN.
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Dec 1, 2020 21:27
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H110Hawk posted:What are you trying to stay secure from? What is your threat model? Ok yeah that all makes sense. My threat model/level is pretty low and I all our laptops run chrome with ad blockers so I probably don’t need to throw another device in the mix. I have a soon to be 13 year old that likes to download dumb poo poo games but so far he hasn’t had any malware issues so I’ll maybe look into a multi device sub to BitDefender or something like that and run it on all the PC’s, it seems pretty low overhead too.
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Dec 2, 2020 01:22
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Douchebag posted:I’ll maybe look into a multi device sub to BitDefender or something like that and run it on all the PC’s, it seems pretty low overhead too. Windows Defender. It's free, it's just as good as the competition and it doesn't operate under the goatse security model that the others traditionally do.
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Dec 2, 2020 01:26
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Douchebag posted:Ok yeah that all makes sense. My threat model/level is pretty low and I all our laptops run chrome with ad blockers so I probably don’t need to throw another device in the mix. Windows Defender is as good or better than the commercial stuff, and isn't built to be stupid and overbearing. If you need some kind of malware network layer filtering for your kid slap up a pihole, or enforce that they not override any adblock warnings, and make sure they use chrome.
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Dec 2, 2020 01:30
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astral posted:the goatse security model that the others traditionally do. A big gaping hole in plain sight?
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Dec 2, 2020 03:04
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