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So I have this router - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124388 and this netowrk card - WMP300 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124069 Comcast just bumped my speed to 50MBits down and we're seeing it on the computer hard wired to the modem, but my wireless one tops out around 30Mbit. We have Tomato on the router and it's on 2.4GHz, we should be able to get 50 Megs to the wireless one with a good signal right?
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Apr 6, 2013 02:36
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Is it in N only mode? How is the signal strength? To be honest 30 is pretty good.
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Apr 6, 2013 03:01
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It's the same whether it's in N only or mixed. Windows reports it 4 to 5 bars,and inSSIDer shows it between -60 and -55 dBm.
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Apr 6, 2013 03:17
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I have a 3 whip antenna router running tomato talking to a laptop with intel centrino ultimate-n wireless chip and with 3 antennas and can get 120mbps about 80 ft out in the back yard with the router on the fridge. You're probably limited by the awful, tiny antennas inside that tiny curved box that is your wireless router. A router with external replaceable whip antennas will give you much better range. I'm using a $60 TP-Link TL-WR1043ND (stock antennas) mounted to a wall with the antennas sticking up vertically
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Apr 6, 2013 04:04
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I'm on a e900 with latest tomato and I get the full 50 Mbit down. Change firmware? Disable wmm, change channels?
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Apr 6, 2013 14:57
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Any recommendations for a wireless USB stick for use on my PC? I moved into an apartment and the cable line is going to be across the room and id rather not be running cables all over the drat place. If it comes down to that I can but would rather avoid it. I didn't see anything in the OP.
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Apr 6, 2013 17:15
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My new modem (Motorola SB6141) and router (Asus RT-N65U) are great, everything is so much faster. There are a few things that I'm missing from tomato though. First, I can't update my namecheap ddns from the router, and also I can't directly modify dnsmasq (used to redirect my external host names to internal IPs). DD-WRT doesn't support the RT-N65U, but I found this project that does: https://code.google.com/p/rt-n56u/ Does anybody know anything about it?
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Apr 7, 2013 02:26
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Is there any point in getting an SB6141 if the maximum speed my plan tops out on is 27Mbps/7Mbps? I have a SB6121 currently and I'm on comcast business class.
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Apr 7, 2013 19:32
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My linksys cisco router that connects to my brighthouse modem doesn't play nice with one of the computers connected to it. My other computers connected to it ping fine but this particular IBM even after system restoring to two previous states doesn't want to connect to anything. I ping google.com and go into my router settings and ping the computer and I'm always getting packet loss. This trouble PC is connected directly to the router now like all the other computers but its like something is blocking its connection. I can access the router screen (192.168.1.1) and input the admin/pass but it doesn't let me go further than that. How do I figure out if its an ip conflict or a mac address problem or DHCP or subnet mask/default gateway messing things up. Edit: Its windows XP and its net work screen sucks. I've uninstalled norton and disabled the firewall. It's like only one packet goes through and thats why it cant talk to the router screen and access the router config screen and thats why no one website will load, I think. Edit 2: It works . After working on it last night I checked it again today and the router screen loaded to my surprise and so does everything else. I'm not sure what changed. Edit 3: I was probably just too impatient with the router yesterday and didn't wait the entire 10 seconds for it to give a new ip address to the PC. But I have no idea if this explains why I was getting 25/50 percent packet loss on all pings incoming and outgoing. Kneel Before Zog fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 8, 2013 04:51
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Vintersorg posted:Any recommendations for a wireless USB stick for use on my PC? I moved into an apartment and the cable line is going to be across the room and id rather not be running cables all over the drat place. If it comes down to that I can but would rather avoid it. I didn't see anything in the OP. I grabbed this TINY USB stick from ASUS. It's pretty neat but seems to run hot. Jago posted:Do you have government spy secrets? Illegal porn? Are you a secret lizard person? Why so paranoid? I'm just sort of "general paranoid" than anything in specific. Might be OCD. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 8, 2013 10:09
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UK goon here, Hoping this hasn't already been covered in-depth and I'm being a moron but was hoping for a bit of help with the following; I'm currently using BT Infinity using their router in a very (~ 500 years)old pub as a wireless hotspot so customers can use it. The wifi penetration is awful but I'm pretty much resigned to this fact however I'm pretty sure the bt router isn't up to having more than a few people connected via wifi at any one time and only a reset seems to help. Rather than springing for a new cable router I was hoping to connect a Belkin Playmax F7d440 to the infinity router, disable dhcp or somesuch and use the belkin to kick out the wireless connection- this is all on the basis that the bloke that gave me the belkin said it was a much better router for this sort of thing. Is any of this in the range of sense or should I stop being so tight and just go by a cable router with a reassuring number of aerials sticking out of the back and with the promise of having some sort of 'monster-loads-of-people-at-once' connectivity?
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Apr 8, 2013 17:03
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FISHMANPET posted:My new modem (Motorola SB6141) and router (Asus RT-N65U) are great, everything is so much faster. I use this firmware on my RT-N56U and it works great. It's constantly being update and I've no issues at all with it, running VPN server, FTP server and samba local server on the router.
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Apr 8, 2013 19:00
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Well I went to install the outdoor moca filter that I got when I figured I was already buying another to go in front of my cable modem, and lo and behold Grande already has one out there because their whole-home DVR service is TiVo moca powered. Huh. I guess they just put one out there by default whether you have that service or not.
Dogen fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 8, 2013 23:21
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Goon Matchmaker posted:Is there any point in getting an SB6141 if the maximum speed my plan tops out on is 27Mbps/7Mbps? I have a SB6121 currently and I'm on comcast business class. Also more neighbour friendly where it spreads the bandwidth usage across 8 channels instead of 4 
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Apr 8, 2013 23:57
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DaNzA posted:Rock stable speed at any time of the day where your speed is always a flat line at the capped maximum bitrate. My speed is always stable at 3.3 MB/s once it settles down from the speed boost or whatever Comcast calls it.
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Apr 9, 2013 00:15
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My Router posted:[DHCP IP: xxx.xxx.x.xxx] to MAC address xx:xx:xx:xx:xx:xx, Sunday, April 07, 2013 13:41:35 Boy, my iPad really likes to talk to my router all the time (probably because of push email settings). I've also seen a couple of instances where there's an access rejected from my iPad's MAC address. I'm thinking that's much more likely due to a communication glitch rather than someone spoofing the MAC address for whatever reason and trying to brute force my WPA2-PSK password. If it happened when my iPad was away from the router, then I'd be more suspicious. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Apr 9, 2013 |
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Apr 9, 2013 02:36
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Vintersorg posted:Any recommendations for a wireless USB stick for use on my PC? I moved into an apartment and the cable line is going to be across the room and id rather not be running cables all over the drat place. If it comes down to that I can but would rather avoid it. I didn't see anything in the OP. Alternatively, for around the same price, get one of these Intel cards if you have a spare PCI-E slot: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106135 . Goon Matchmaker posted:My speed is always stable at 3.3 MB/s once it settles down from the speed boost or whatever Comcast calls it. Three-Phase posted:Boy, my iPad really likes to talk to my router all the time (probably because of push email settings). I've also seen a couple of instances where there's an access rejected from my iPad's MAC address.  . Enable wireless isolation for your ipad, etc. and put everything else on a direct ethernet connection. Otherwise just use strong passwords and stop  about it. No one's going to go through the effort of breaking into your network unless you're a celebrity or government official or something, in which case you probably shouldn't use wireless at all.
future ghost fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Apr 9, 2013 |
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Apr 9, 2013 15:58
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If I have a desktop and a freeNAS box sitting next to each other, is it possible to daisy-chain some additional gigabit NICs between them to get >1gbps between the two? I know that link aggregation is a thing but that's pretty much all I know about link aggregation. Both machines are currently connected to an e2000's gigabit switch via onboard NIC (realtek and intel respectively). I have a dual port Intel PRO/1000 server card around already, and in my fever dreams I just buy another, put 1 in each machine, interconnect them with crossover cables, sacrifice a goat and then get 2-3gbps between the two. Can this work or should I lay off the drugs? e: The NAS has a 5 disk RAIDZ2 which can outdo the gigabit by itself but is also cached on an unnecessarily fast SATA3 SSD which will saturate the 3gbps onboard SATA2, best case. poverty goat fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Apr 9, 2013 |
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Apr 9, 2013 21:08
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grumperfish posted:Honestly, you might want to consider ditching wireless completely if it's just going to make you I think this setup is pretty good now. I'm not going to sweat it unless some new vulnerability comes down the pipeline.
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Apr 9, 2013 21:21
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captainKerblamo posted:Rather than springing for a new cable router I was hoping to connect a Belkin Playmax F7d440 to the infinity router, disable dhcp or somesuch and use the belkin to kick out the wireless connection- this is all on the basis that the bloke that gave me the belkin said it was a much better router for this sort of thing. This should work pretty well.
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Apr 9, 2013 21:34
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I thought I'd provide this food for thought on Linksys routers. Given that this has been published the countdown begins for someone getting around to writing some malicious code. https://superevr.com/blog/2013/dont-use-linksys-routers/
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Apr 9, 2013 23:12
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Devian666 posted:I thought I'd provide this food for thought on Linksys routers. Given that this has been published the countdown begins for someone getting around to writing some malicious code. Guess what, this works on the Cisco WAP4410N as well. The syntax is slightly different, but I can change the admin password all day long through fiddler un-authenticated.
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Apr 10, 2013 00:08
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So many security issues and so little time. If I wasn't so busy I'd spent a lot more time getting into network security issues.
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Apr 10, 2013 02:14
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While we're talking about network security the following website can be used to find various devices connected to the internet. Sort of a google for networks rather than webpages. Searching for something like "linksys" gives quite a few results. I hope some of you find it interesting. http://www.shodanhq.com/ quote:Shodan searchers have found control systems for a water park, a gas station, a hotel wine cooler and a crematorium. Cybersecurity researchers have even located command and control systems for nuclear power plants and a particle-accelerating cyclotron by using Shodan. Devian666 fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Apr 10, 2013 |
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Apr 10, 2013 03:09
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I'm thinking of future proofing my place by rewiring the whole network with cat6 instead of the current assortment of cat5 cables. Looking at different places online there's quite a big difference in cable prices. I'm guessing that shielded is the better option compared to unshielded, but is there a massive difference between the cables themselves ? I can't find any reviews on brands like microconnect and lindy, is it worth going for a brand like belkin and getting unshielded or paying the same price for a smaller brand and getting shielded ?
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Apr 10, 2013 07:24
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Jimmmmah posted:I'm thinking of future proofing my place by rewiring the whole network with cat6 instead of the current assortment of cat5 cables. Looking at different places online there's quite a big difference in cable prices. I'm guessing that shielded is the better option compared to unshielded, but is there a massive difference between the cables themselves ? I can't find any reviews on brands like microconnect and lindy, is it worth going for a brand like belkin and getting unshielded or paying the same price for a smaller brand and getting shielded ? I wouldn't bother unless you are going to get cat6 installed properly. It is far more sensitive to the installation than cat5. If you are considering a full rewire and want high speeds in the future you should avoid unshielded cable. You'd be pretty close to throwing your money away on unshielded cable if you want to future proof. Compliant cable should be the same and it probably comes out of the same factory. Belkin is a brand to avoid under any circumstances.
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Apr 10, 2013 07:37
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Devian666 posted:I wouldn't bother unless you are going to get cat6 installed properly. It is far more sensitive to the installation than cat5. If you are considering a full rewire and want high speeds in the future you should avoid unshielded cable. You'd be pretty close to throwing your money away on unshielded cable if you want to future proof. Thanks for the help, I was going to get a 350m bulk cable and wire it properly with panels and faceplates to tidy it all up. I think cat6 may be overkill and rather save some money on getting the cat5e shielded then, I just need to find somewhere cheap in the UK then !
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Apr 10, 2013 13:36
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Jimmmmah posted:Thanks for the help, I was going to get a 350m bulk cable and wire it properly with panels and faceplates to tidy it all up. I think cat6 may be overkill and rather save some money on getting the cat5e shielded then, I just need to find somewhere cheap in the UK then ! You don't need shielded cable unless you have a reason for it, and I'm guessing that you don't have generators or industrial equipment humming away in your home generating a lot of electromagnetic interference. Shielded CAT5 generally costs more than unshielded CAT6 and when you run shielded cable you need shielded outlets, patch panels and patch cords as well, which are considerably more expensive than standard ones. The only real issue you might hit with CAT6 in a home installation is with sharp bends, and even then it has to be pretty sharp to cause a problem. Most of the other issues are generally associated with running it in large buildings where you have rows of fluorescent lights or are stacking hundreds of cables on top of each other in a conduit or cable rack. Regular CAT6 is rated for 10G use as long as the runs are generally under 55m, which most runs in a home installation should be well under unless you live in a castle.
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Apr 10, 2013 14:19
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CuddleChunks posted:This should work pretty well. Cheers mate, was hoping it would- i'll hit google to find out the details, just wanted the general 'yay' or 'nay'
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Apr 11, 2013 08:39
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I have a dilemma. I live in a fairly long house with wifi destroying walls and kitchen in the middle. Each end of the house needs both wifi and ethernet ports. I currently have a single WRT54G v5 that still runs strong and rarely ever need to mess with it, it runs on its most updated default software. I've placed it in the middle of the house in the hopes that it would reach the areas where I get little/no wifi, but some areas are still unable to get a reliable connection. Devices claim to be getting a good signal, but everything takes forever to load anyways. I'm also in need of additional ethernet ports in those same areas. I know absolutely nothing about networking. So I'm sorry if this is wrong and/or groan inducing. But from the googling I've done it sounds like I have a solution. It seems like I could buy a second router and set it up as an access point and physically wire it to the other so I'd have a router on both sides of the house. I already have two lines of cat5e that connect both sides of the house due to how I originally had the router set up. I can really do this, right? I am a bit confused on how the wifi would work in this situation though. Now I'm looking at my wrt54g. It's old. It works great and I bought it cheap years ago, but it is old. I have cable internet, but I'm actually wondering now if it is able to handle this connection. A wired connection to the modem gives me about 25 Mbit down and 3 up. The most bandwidth intensive this house would realistically ever get is two instances of netflix using wifi, one playing online games, and one phone that is web browsing. Most often however it is just one person streaming and another playing games. I don't know if I should replace the wrt54g as well when I buy a new router. I don't know if manufacturer conflicts are a thing when it comes to routers and I question the speed of the router itself. Should I still be buying $100+ routers for simple home networking? I'd rather not spend a lot of money, $150 for two routers is already seriously pushing it, but this thread makes anything less than $100 sound like it has a countdown to being an expensive paperweight. If worse comes to worst though, I'll probably end up getting two ASUS RT-N16 from the OP.
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Apr 12, 2013 06:01
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Since people are talking about wireless speeds this page, I think it's a good time to post my issue again. I posted about this back in December and then it got looked over during the holidays/since. I have a Netgear WNR3500Lv2 and the wireless speeds make it barely usable. I posted lots of different speed test results back then and Devian666 was trying to help me out. I posted this image too:  (the rate usually says 65Mbps) Until tonight, I thought the wireless was broken all together because I could see it broadcast but couldn't connect to it. Turns out I just had the transmit power up too high I think. I made it default and now I can connect to this POS again. It's been so slow from the get-go that I was hoping to send it back to Netgear, plus none of the advice here made it better. Should I just send it to them and see if I can get a different model?
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Apr 12, 2013 06:53
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Broose posted:I have a dilemma. Get the ASUS RT-N16s for sure, which will help a great deal. If you can't afford 2, get the RT-N16 and another cheaper model like the RT-N12 (it's going to be used as an access point, it doesn't need horsepower.) Give the secondary a static IP and Disable DHCP. Connect one end of the CAT5 cable to a LAN port on the main router, then the other end to a LAN port on the secondary (DO NOT PLUG ANYTHING INTO THE WAN PORT ON THE SECONDARY ROUTER). Set both routers to the EXACT same SSID and security, but DIFFERENT CHANNELS. They will connect seamlessly to whichever has the stronger signal.
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Apr 12, 2013 07:02
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KingKapalone posted:Since people are talking about wireless speeds this page, I think it's a good time to post my issue again. I posted about this back in December and then it got looked over during the holidays/since. Are there any other 2.4GHz WiFi networks in your area?
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Apr 12, 2013 07:52
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KingKapalone posted:Since people are talking about wireless speeds this page, I think it's a good time to post my issue again. I posted about this back in December and then it got looked over during the holidays/since. Disable wmm. Serious. Edit also change your channel. Interference says severe. z06ck fucked around with this message at 11:34 on Apr 12, 2013 |
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Apr 12, 2013 11:32
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KingKapalone posted:Since people are talking about wireless speeds this page, I think it's a good time to post my issue again. I posted about this back in December and then it got looked over during the holidays/since. Have you tried firing up inSSIDer to see what other networks you've got around you? 3 isn't a great channel anyway from what I understand, you're best off on 1, 6 or 11 (picking whichever of those has the least traffic near you). Upping the transmit power also generates more noise, so that might have been causing you to see the network but not be able to connect.
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Apr 12, 2013 13:28
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Any recommendations for a basic router/firewall where wireless doesn't matter or isn't needed. I have moved to an area that uses Comcast/Xfinity and I am going to buy a cable modem instead of paying $7 for theirs. I already have a Unifi AP so I have wireless covered. The only real requirement is gigabit Ethernet ports. I realize I can disable the wireless on a wireless router, but I don't want to over pay for something based on the wireless capabilities.
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Apr 12, 2013 15:06
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Wireless is kind of a default feature these days. The only things I could find in a quick search were either so cheap it was only 10/100 or expensive because ~business~ equipment.
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Apr 12, 2013 15:33
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Mikrotik do the RB750GL which is a 5 gigabit port router with no wireless. The Mikrotik thread (http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3388528) has more information on their routers - they aren't as easy to setup as most home routers, but they have a very large feature set and good reliability.
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Apr 12, 2013 16:36
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Dogen posted:Wireless is kind of a default feature these days. The only things I could find in a quick search were either so cheap it was only 10/100 or expensive because ~business~ equipment. That was what I was finding as well. I guess a full-featured wireless router is what I will look for. robostac posted:Mikrotik do the RB750GL which is a 5 gigabit port router with no wireless. Thanks. Will look into it.
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Apr 12, 2013 16:43
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UndyingShadow posted:Get the ASUS RT-N16s for sure, which will help a great deal. Cool. Thank you for the setup instructions, I probably would have used the WAN port on the second router otherwise. Is there an opinion on Buffalo brand routers? I'm looking at these as alternatives to the ASUS RT-N16 ones Claims to have a better CPU with the same amount of memory and the 600DHP versions have 5GHz band option. While being cheaper (or much cheaper in the case of the 300HP). Seems to trade a USB port and user friendliness to flashing for that though. Any googling I do seems to be a bit mixed, but generally positive about them (and from 2011). I don't really understand what is being talked about on the dd-wrt.com forums though. I can't find a straight answer on how much a 5 GHz band can't penetrate. If there are two rooms on top of each other, I'm under the impression that the floor itself would be enough to make the signal unusable in the other room, but I am unsure.
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Apr 12, 2013 17:37
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