The Home Networking Megathread - Yes the OP is out of date

Rukus · # ¿ Mar 9, 2013 03:19

Gothmog1065 posted:

Okay, got to looking at the rt-n16, is there a router near the $100 that does gigabit ethernet? I'm honestly not concerned about the wireless, the only things that connect to wireless are my phones.

Gigabit ethernet for the LAN or the WAN? The LAN ports on the RT-N16 are all gigabit. If you're refering to WAN, the dd-wrt page for it shows that the WAN is capable of roughly 140Mbps, which covers most ISP data rates. If you want the performance, the RT-N66U is rated at 730Mbps on the WAN, but you'll have to spend a bit more for it.

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Rukus · # ¿ Apr 3, 2013 11:46

ChompOnThis posted:

I was wondering if anyone knows of any good software for monitoring user bandwidth traffic. I have 6 other roommates who have multiple devices on our network and in the last week and a half our overall outbound traffic has spiked significantly pretty much bringing our network to a halt. Most my roommates aren't the most tech savvy people and I'm assuming that someone has some torrent client service running in the background without knowing it. Right now we are we are running an ASUS RT-N16 router with DD-WRT. Any advice for finding out the culprit device would be much appreciated.

Someone on the dd-wrt forums wrote a script to monitor per device usage: http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=75275

Rukus · # ¿ May 3, 2014 00:59

You'd probably have an easier time just changing the gateway's DNS settings using a provider like Unotelly. If you haven't already, check out page 54 of the manual: http://www.cisco.com/web/consumer/support/userguides2/4021196_B.pdf

Rukus · # ¿ Jul 14, 2014 17:46

A Yolo Wizard posted:

Could anyone recommend an reasonably priced router with dual wan / (for failover, not load balancing). I don't need wireless connectivity. I was thinking of the TP-LINK TL-R470T+, but I imagine dd-wrt has some sort of dual wan mode available if there are better options. I have a WRT160N v3 available.

Have you looked into Ubiquiti's EdgeRouter Lite? It has three configurable interfaces, which would support dual WAN (using the third to go to your LAN/dedicated switch).

The EdgeRouter can take a bit of work to get configured beyond basic DHCP/NAT/UPnP, but it's rock solid once you do. Ubiquiti also has a great knowledge base (here's a guide on how to setup dual WAN). I moved up to it from a dd-wrt wndr3700 (which is now in AP-only mode) and I haven't had a single problem with it.

Rukus · # ¿ Aug 5, 2014 22:50

I Might Be Adam posted:

edit: I've also had them change the channels on the modem to avoid interference with no change at all. I'm not going the route of ethernet connections or powerline fixes only because I have too many wifi devices and would rather stay wireless. Extending the range with an airport express might be an option, but wouldn't it just extend the range of the awful speeds?

Since you mentioned wireless channels, can you do a site survey using a tool like Netspot to see what kind of interference you may be getting from your neighbours? It could be a situation where the 2.4GHz band is overcrowded and short of just blasting out a stronger signal from your equipment it isn't really fixable. In this case you'd want to look into getting some equipment that operates on the 5GHz band.

You're correct about the extender; it'll only operate at the fastest link that it has to your router.

Rukus · # ¿ Aug 17, 2014 18:58

abagofcheetos posted:

I understand the folly in replacing one cheap router with another, but it is DD-WRT compatible apparently, so I assume that means I should be ok. I would get a nice dual band router, but I figure by the time I actually need something that good those routers will be more than $20 cheaper.

According to this page from TP-Link the WAN to LAN throughput for that router is about 90Mbits without any kind of tunneling, which is still slower than a direct connection to your modem. If that's too slow for you maybe check out the Asus RT-N16? It supports dd-wrt and has a throughput of about 140Mbits. Kind of difficult to find adequate/reliable hardware around the $20-50 price-range, dd-wrt or not.

Rukus · # ¿ Aug 26, 2014 11:46

Wicaeed posted:

How up to date is the OP?

I'm looking for a gigabit capable router that can run DD-WRT/Tomato that doesn't necessarily have to be wireless capable, and won't completely break the bank.

Are there any options right around the $100 price range?

Since you mentioned third-party firmware go one step deeper and check out the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite

It has a decent enough GUI to get basic NAT/UPnP/DHCP functionality, and you can really dive into it using CLI to get exactly what you want out of it. For WiFi you can plug in any ethernet wireless access point.

Rukus · # ¿ Sep 8, 2014 18:56

Indecision1991 posted:

I am trying to help a family friend get a new router that will let them setup a "lockout" time where the kids cant use the internet. For example they want the kids to not have access to the web from 10PM-6AM. They essentially want them to not be able to browse the web or play games (xbox/PC) at night.

Price isnt a concern but I would like to keep them sub $200. Anyone have recommendations on a good router that is feature packed but also lets them control access like that? I would be setting it up for them but I just don't know whats out there that can do exactly what they are asking for.

Pretty sure all of the third-party firmwares (dd-wrt, tomato, etc.) support time of day restrictions, so you'll have a lot of options. Something like this Asus AC router with dd-wrt would be a good option: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320115 http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Asus_RT-AC66U

Rukus · # ¿ Oct 2, 2014 06:20

Flameingblack posted:

I need help setting up what's essentially, a home network for a small business.

Phone-posting, but since this is a business a VPN concentrator would be the best choice. Opening up RDP ports facing the internet also doesn't sound like the best idea, either. Look into some kind of UTM device with a VPN concentrator which would replace their "home" router and plug the switch into it.

Rukus · # ¿ Oct 5, 2014 23:27

Josh Lyman posted:

We got AT&T U-Verse small business for our house in April and it's been great from a speed perspective, but the Mortorola combo modem/router has really lovely wifi.

We still have our old Netgear WNDR3700v2. If we want to see it up as just a wireless AP, is the Gargoyle router firmware on it fine or should we load up dd-wrt or something else?

I'm using that same model as an AP with dd-wrt and it works great. Haven't tried Gargoyle, but I'm assuming it works just as well. For dd-wrt I turned off DHCP and DNS and disabled "WAN connection type" to turn off NAT. Passes DHCP/DNS requests perfectly fine to the router.

Rukus · # ¿ Oct 8, 2014 03:07

Crotch Fruit posted:

I am not familiar with Ubiquiti's products, assuming I go this route what would I need? Is the UniFi AP what I need, and if so would I one work my Buffalo router or would I need two Ubiquiti APs?

Ubiquiti's Unifi products include their controller software which supports proper handoffs, so with that in mind a minimum of two are required. That model is also 2.4GHz only, but it shouldn't be a problem unless you have some really bad neighbourhood interference, since those APs should just blast right through it. Also take a look at their "long range" version of that AP, which should further help with any weak signal issues.

Rukus · # ¿ Oct 8, 2014 05:48

Han Nehi posted:

Is there a particular model of switch I should look for? I just need a gigabit unmanaged switch with 6 or 8 ports.

Check out either the Netgear or DLink unmanaged switches. Both are well reviewed, and I've got one of those Netgears running for a few years now without issues.

Rukus · # ¿ Oct 18, 2014 13:29

Three-Phase posted:

Do you have a way to signal to the server that power is lost so you can initiate a graceful shutdown before the battery depletes? I think most UPS units offer that.

(Man, I should make a UPS thread in SH/SC.)

Make that thread, there's a lot of (mis)information about UPS out there and having a consolidated source would be great.

That said, UPS signalling is great. After my server is told to shutdown it gives my network equipment (24 port switch, AP, and router) about 2 1/2 of up-time. Handy for keeping a connection when on mobile devices.

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 16, 2014 23:41

SamDabbers posted:

Don't take wiring off the table yet. How about using some wall-mount cable raceways to make it not look like poo poo and protect the cables from your cat, and 3M Command adhesive so that it doesn't damage the paint on the walls to keep your landlord happy? Wired Ethernet won't have any of the reliability or speed problems that wireless has in a noisy environment.

Yeah, raceways are great and you can also get flat ethernet cables that hide under rugs/carpet/baseboards with relative ease. The other option with the 5GHz capable router and wireless adapter would be the other choice.

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 17, 2014 15:23

spog posted:

It's a chinese knock-off: it literally could be anything from a chip-perfect copy to a case stuffed full of used pinball parts.

Also with the potential to burn down your home. :v:

I personally wouldn't trust it with my devices, doubly so since it's PoE and feeding electricity out its ports.

Rukus · # ¿ Dec 2, 2014 01:02

Luceo posted:

Picked up an R7000 on a black friday deal. How's the default firmware? I've been running custom firmwares for years but if there's no reason to bother anymore, why gently caress with it?

I mentioned that router in a reply in the hardware questions thread and it seems like the default firmware is more ideal if you're pushing a connection over 400Mb/s:

quote:

Whilst the router is fast, potential users should be aware that IPv4 NAT routing throughput tops out at 450Mbit on latest Netgear stock firmware, and at 360Mbit on DD-WRT with default configuration (no overclocking), or 425Mbit with a 20% overclock.

If you don't have that requirement then I'd suggest dd-wrt (or any other third-party) every time over manufacturer firmware.

Rukus · # ¿ Dec 29, 2014 07:24

Maybe xClaim Wireless (from Ruckus Wireless)? Their AC model is $200. I think you need a smartphone to do initial configurations for them before being able to access a web interface if that matters.

Rukus · # ¿ Apr 8, 2015 01:44

Internet Explorer posted:

Does anyone with more VOIP experience than I know what I would have to set up? It seems like the Linksys just had some VOIP rules built-in that I would have to do by hand on the EdgeRouter, and that's a bit outside of my experience.

You'd want to use their traffic-shaper command to guarantee bandwidth to the VoIP device: https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX-Configuration-Examples/EdgeMAX-Quality-of-Service-for-Voice-Over-IP-QoS-for-VoIP/ta-p/529077

This can also be modified for other devices as well (like for a device streaming Netflix). In the linked example he's prioritizing the DSCP traffic associated with VoIP, but it can easily be changed to an IP or MAC address.

Rukus · # ¿ Aug 15, 2015 00:16

notlibber posted:

So im doing a major remodel on my house and am wondering a few things

Since the walls are down you could run a 20 or 30 amp circuit to your server room/rack. A lot of the higher capacity UPS won't work on a regular 15 amp circuit.

As already suggested run some cable pullstring through your conduit so in the event you ever need to run an extra cable you have that option.

If you haven't already, run an ethernet to the ceiling somewhere in the center of the house so you can run put in a proper access point for wireless. Maybe even two if the house is large enough to warrant it. Just make sure to pair them with a PoE switch that can power them.

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 8, 2015 22:53

Always go with Intel when it comes to networking if you can. Intel 7260HMWDTX1 PCI-E is your best bet, has a movable external antenna and includes bluetooth if you're lacking for that as well.

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 9, 2015 08:50

Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:

I have a 7260 as well and enjoy its functionality with fixed antennas, but I stupidly got it in mini-PCIe form factor and didn't get a movable external antenna for it, making the desktop a bit hard to keep under a desk. Does it have a separate SKU that Intel sells separately?

I'm having a really tough time trying to find a product page for just the antenna in the Intel kit. You could try contacting their support to see about ordering one directly from them. Or you could buy a third-party dual antenna, just make sure the connectors are RP-SMA, something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Desktop-Performance-Bandwidth-Wireless-Omni-directional/dp/B00L43HN2K.

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 9, 2015 12:16

Hard to tell from the pictures, they might be molded to the base. Aliexpress has one that shows removable antennas: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...1295889206.html

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 9, 2015 14:13

AC-Lites come with PoE injectors, so you can use them with any non-PoE device. The injector can be plugged in where your ERX is, and your powered line would then run to wherever you're installing the APs.

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 9, 2015 16:14

bitcoin savant posted:

Do you have to have a EdgerouterX to use one of those APs or can I hook it up to my pfsense box instead? Trying to replace an old 3COM PoE AP that has an injector - the pfsense box doesn't provide power.

Ubiquiti's APs are vendor agnostic; just plug them into an available port to any switch/router. To configure them you have to run their management software/controller application which you can install on any PC on your network.

Just keep in mind that the AC-Lite (and AC-Lite LR) uses a proprietary 24v adapter, so make sure to use it instead of the 802.11af adapter that the 3COM is using.

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 10, 2015 19:02

That thing will most likely crash and burn with that many clients trying to access it all at the same time. The datasheet for the Unifi AC APs states they can support up to 200 clients, more than enough for your use case. As for the price, are you looking at the older, square enclosure model? That one has been superseded by their newer lineup that's a lot less expensive (the UAP-AC-LITE has an MSRP of $90), though a bit harder to find at the moment due to supply constraints.

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 14, 2015 02:23

You'll most definitely want to keep the wifi traffic separate from the POS and credit processing machines. You do this by using equipment that supports VLANs.

An EdgeRouter Lite as the router then something like a Netgear managed switch to plug all your equipment into, and a Unifi Access Point AC-Lite or Pro handling wireless. That setup will run him about $265 - $325.

Then just keep the Guest wifi to its own VLAN, CC/POS to another, and possibly the Office machine to its own as well (unless it's connected to the POS via software). If you can, absolutely keep the networking gear locked in the closet (except the AP, that can be mounted somewhere out of reach on the wall or ceiling) and just run some cat5e/6 to wherever it's needed. From your diagram, four lines is easy enough to run and conceal wherever.

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 14, 2015 14:17

dbcooper posted:

Thank you. Price sounds good.

So it will end up looking something like this?

Where the purple, blue and green lines/cables represent different VLANs.

The POS and credit card machine are not connected to the office PC via software and if that changes in the future [I assume] I can modify the network as necessary.

Hopefully he hasn't run the cabling yet and I can perform the equipment install this Thanksgiving!

That's pretty much it, and VLANs make it really simple to change network segmentation. Another thing you could look into is a UPS for the networking gear in case there are any power blips. All the gear together wouldn't use more than 30-40 watts at most, so even a lower-wattage unit like this APC would keep the gear up for around 90 minutes. This would stop any problems caused by the equipment suddenly losing power and acting abnormally when they come back online.

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 14, 2015 23:59

dbcooper posted:

Edit: Any recommendations on a cheap Ethernet line tester as well?

I use a cheap Monoprice tester I got years ago that only checks for continuity and crossed wires (similar to this) and has worked well enough for basic use. That toner would be handy if you ever have to find a particular cable, though.

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 15, 2015 04:21

Or their Edgeswitch line (I think it runs different firmware/GUI from the Unifi ones): PoE Capable, Non-PoE.

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 15, 2015 07:10

Ubiquiti made a little device that plugs into an ethernet port that runs the controller software: https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-cloud-key/. Handy if you don't have an always-on server to host it.

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 25, 2015 14:20

Massasoit posted:

So is it better to sit on 1/6/11 or whatever even though each of those bands has 4-6 detectable networks at any given time?

Generally, yeah. Best bet is to find the channel (1, 6, or 11) that has the weakest competing signals (using a wifi analyzing program where you'll be using your devices) and use that. There will still be some interference, but it can help.

Rukus · # ¿ Nov 27, 2015 01:44

Axiem posted:

Giving it some thought, is there any particular reason to stick with 192.168.1.1 for the router IP address? Would changing to something else, like 192.168.16.1 cause problems for things connecting to the network? Would is have any benefit (of e.g. security)? Or is it just something I shouldn't really worry about at all?

If you're making VPN tunnels between routers (such as sharing media from a local server to a family member's network) having separate networks will let you route specified network traffic over that VPN interface (ie. their network would be 192.168.1.0/24 and would route to yours of 192.168.2.0/24). Otherwise you don't really have to worry about it for home use.

Axiem posted:

Another question I have: what, exactly, is DNS forwarding, and why do I have to turn it on specifically for each physical port on the router?

DNS forwarding is just taking a device's DNS request and having your router find the address on its behalf. For example, your computer wants to know what the IP address of Google.com is. It sends the DNS request to your router (and if the router doesn't know), the router then goes to the DNS server its configured to contact asking for the actual IP address of that request. Your router then sends back the IP address of Google.com (74.125.224.72) to your computer. Your router will then cache that result, so any subsequent requests from other devices will be answered immediately, reducing outbound traffic to a DNS server.

To configure this correctly make sure you have specified name servers on your edgerouter, then under DHCP in the DNS field, put in your router's IP address (192.168.1.1). This will tell any clients connecting to your network via DHCP that the router is the DNS server, and will transparently forward your requests.

Otherwise, if your router isn't listening for DNS requests and your device doesn't have a DNS server in the network adapter configuration, you won't be resolving many (if any) websites.

Rukus · # ¿ Dec 9, 2015 00:58

Raymn posted:

This http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122128 should in no way do any sort of NATing, correct? My boss wants me to get a small cheap switch because our offices only have two ports and someone needs a third device. We used to have something similar, or slightly older, that he said wouldn't work because it was doing NAT or software bridging (isn't that what NATing sort of is?) and our orgs network doesn't like that. I was under the impression that an unmanaged switch was basically bridging but he said thats not necessarily true and I needed to make sure it was hardware bridging before getting it. I looked at the specs on the Netgear site and they said nothing about bridging or NATing so I'm not sure what I should be getting at this point and I'm not super familiar with networking especially after being told my understanding was incorrect. Any help would be appreciated!

Yeah, that will work fine. The only issue that could arise is if the switch your ports leads to has switchport security that limits the number of devices/MAC addresses that can be connected to the port (ie. only one device per port means adding a switch then plugging multiple devices in won't work).

Rukus · # ¿ Dec 23, 2015 03:32

Boner Wad posted:

Yeah after I posted that I realized 10G is insane.

I'm thinking that I'm going to have to run new drops to rooms from my attic and then figure out how to get a link from the attic switch into my basement.

I guess I could take an existing run to an outlet that terminates in the basement and extend it up to the attic and then run a new cable down for the existing outlet which would give me the uplink I need.

How else do you get from the attic to the basement without ripping walls out?

Also the cable installers stapled the Ethernet during the house construction so I can't pull a bundle through.

If you have a vent stack running from the basement to the attic you could run parallel to that, though they're usually completely sealed all the way around on each floor, so you'd have to drill a hole on each level. Not sure what your local code would be for running low-voltage wiring (and if you need plenum-rated) beside it, though.

You could also find a corner of the house that each floor shares and drill outside the wall and just cover up the cable with a raceway. Most can be painted and cover up really well (I ended up doing this).

Rukus · # ¿ Jan 18, 2016 17:30

Combat Pretzel posted:

I'm looking at some cheap used 10GBe cards for my iSCSI line to the NAS. I see most of them have heatsinks. Do they generate that much heat?

I have two GPUs in the system. One small passively cooled (for the hypervisor), and a big one for a guest VM. In between these is a free PCIe slot and one at the bottom. I ask because when I cake it between the two cards, it may radiate heat onto the back of the big GPU and maybe obstruct the passively cooled one (plus radiate heat). The bottom slot is out of the question. Any card installed there would block the fans of the big GPU (then again, people stick two of these next to each other).

Yes, they do generate heat. Inadequate cooling can cause errors and depending on your configuration actual corruption of data. (Look up the LinusTechTips video where his NAS gives up the ghost due to poor ventilation of the raid cards.)

Get some kind of fan to push air (horizontally) across the cards, if possible.

Rukus · # ¿ Jan 19, 2016 03:01

Gothmog1065 posted:

Hey guys, I just got my Ubiquit UAP-AC-Lite installed (they finally dropped below $100). One question: is it possible to make wireless networks only 2.4 or 5ghz?

I configured my AP-Pro by creating two separate SSIDs called "SSID_NAME (2.4GHz)" and "SSID_NAME (5GHz)" under the same WLAN Group, then overriding the opposite SSID for each band. So "SSID_NAME (2.4GHz)" on the 2.4GHz band is enabled, but "SSID_NAME (5GHz)" is disabled.

Rukus · # ¿ Jan 19, 2016 04:18

Glad you got it working, here's mine for reference.

Rukus · # ¿ Jan 24, 2016 20:16

caberham posted:

Just curious, why are NETGEAR switches garbage? Is there a better alternative for consumer/prosumer grade hardware? I was thinking spending a 10Ge netgear switch down the line

Naw, they make decent products as far as unmanaged switches (no console/VLAN/etc) are concerned. Even their "smart" and managed switches are decent enough if you need a few VLANs and PoE.

10GbE gear is going to be much more affordable in the next few years due to 802.11AC breaking the 1Gbps barrier. Keep an eye out on what Ubiquiti will be sure to cook up (Edgeswitch with 10GbE and PoE would be nice.)

Rukus · # ¿ Jan 26, 2016 01:41

Brigdh posted:

Actual gigabit throughput to the internet through a municipal fiber connection from the inside of my home. Speedtest from the install was 920 down, 940 up.

Per http://www.smallnetbuilder.com the C5 outperforms the EdgeRouter Lite in raw performance. I wouldn't be too surprised if the EdgeRouter Lite outperforms the C5 with multiple active connections, but that's not really my primary usecase.

The ERL actually gets closer to 940Mbps: http://ch.illmachine.com/2014/10/edgerouter-lite-performance-tests/

The smallnetbuilder review states that his equipment isn't up to snuff to fully test the ERL (and Ubiquiti's other offerings such as the ER Pro), so the speed limitation you're seeing is actually his equipment. His review is also using a much older firmware which lacks some of the hardware offloading Ubiquiti has since implemented.

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Rukus · # ¿ Jan 31, 2016 23:26

Cat6A will do 10Gbps up to 100 meters, versus 33-55 meters for Cat6. Cat6A will be a bit thicker/bulkier to work with, so keep that in mind. Depending on the distance of the runs, the cost of labour to run the cabling, and how long you plan to utilize the cabling it would make more sense to just pay the difference and get Cat6A for peace of mind.