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Is there any way to filter Skype at the router level? The router is running Tomato but the skypeout/skypetoskype application filters seem to do exactly nothing.
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Mar 5, 2013 05:04
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CLAM DOWN posted:Sorry, should have mentioned that, already use Google DNS. My ISP is Teksavvy in Canada. No delays whatsoever on the wired connection on my desktop, this is solely a wireless issue. Have you tried just using TSI's? I agree that ISP DNS servers are generally garbage but I found Teksavvy's to be much faster than Google's. Edit: also unless you explicitly change it, android always uses google dns by default, not the DNS servers served by DHCP. John Capslocke fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Apr 9, 2014 |
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Apr 9, 2014 03:07
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CLAM DOWN posted:So interestingly enough, my android phone DOES use the DHCP DNS info from the router (its own address), checked it with a networking info app. Huh, interesting, my nexus 7 uses google dns by default and just wrongfully assumed all android devices did that! Glad it worked out for you though.
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Apr 9, 2014 17:15
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It's a single band 2.4ghz radio in an apartment, it's could just interference from 2.4ghz cordless phones/microwaves/other networks in the area. You could try doing a site survey (either with the router, or one of the hundreds of phone apps) and try moving to a channel that is less utilized.
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Apr 29, 2014 05:04
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I personally use https://adfreetime.com/, $1.99 is pretty much the cheapest you can get with DNS based services, supports 10 netflix regions, works great and on anything where you can change your DNS servers (personally use it on PS3 and a WDTV set topbox)
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May 3, 2014 01:11
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Texibus posted:Howdy, It sounds like it might be time to get a new router, it's either broken or simply too old to handle your connection. A router should never be halving your connection speed.
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Jul 24, 2014 18:05
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Does anyone have any experience with the RT-N66U spamming this in the administration log?code:
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Aug 30, 2014 06:53
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Sagebrush posted:So I have a Linksys wireless router (WRT310N) running Tomato firmware and whatever cable modem the company gave me. Every so often, my internet connection will slow down massively -- from the normal 15-30 Mbps to somewhere around 1Mbps. I can reliably fix this by unplugging both devices for ten seconds and then plugging them back in; when the network comes up it's back to normal. So this isn't a problem, really, and it's hardly unique to my setup either. Without more information (like signals/logs from your modem, or router logs), it could be anything from a bug in your router's firmware, to your modem is getting less lovely channels when it comes back up, or simply one or both piece of hardware is dying a slow death.
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Sep 28, 2014 08:29
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Zartans Lady Mask posted:I have a set of Powerline adapters that are rated at 500mbps (D-Link DHP-308AV). I find that I am able to get around 60-70mbps through them in real world use. You're unlikely to get any higher with different hardware, and yes, it is a bad idea to have it going through a power bar, plug it right in to the wall.
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Oct 3, 2014 20:43
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Minidust posted:Every now and then, the router at my place loses its internet connection. Turning it off and on again brings the connection back, 100% of the time (so I know the issue isn't with the provider or IP settings or anything like that). Would regular power cycling prevent that sort of thing from happening in the first place? Or is that type of outage completely random and just something I'll have to deal with? You shouldn't be having to regularly be cycling the power on any decent router.  And it's only that low because I had to move it.
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Dec 12, 2014 03:17
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SiGmA_X posted:What router do you suggest? I just bought a POS Netgear (WNR3500Lv2) and am sorely disappointed by it. Its fine with one wireless device, and goes to hell with 3, so badly that I may as well not try using the internet. Thankfully it will be easy to return this pile. I absolutely LOVE my RT-N66U, it's one of the most stable routers I've owned ever, period. I am almost wishing I had spent the extra on a AC66U for 802.11AC as I feel this will be the last router I get for a long time. I've not even bothered with third party firmwares, the stock is stable as hell, and has all the functionality I need (usable dual band, and IPv6 were my big ones).
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Dec 13, 2014 19:10
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WattsvilleBlues posted:I'm in the UK - looking at the Asus RT AC87U Wireless Router for my fibre optic connection. I have the RT-N66U and it's probably one of the best routers I've owned bar none, but specific to your situation: - Likely yes, but keep in mind if your signal problem stems from a busy 2.4Ghz band, devices that don't have 5Ghz radio will not really benefit much. - Your modem should impact your LAN performance at all.
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Jan 20, 2015 00:43
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WattsvilleBlues posted:1. Would it improve the powerline adapter performance? Powerline adapters are subject to a whole other realm of issues (bad grounding, noise, outlets being on different phases, etc), but if they're working fine now there is no reason that should change, but I doubt they won't be better. I have a pair of TP-Link ones that only hit a sync of like 100Mbps in my house. And yes I meant shouldn't. John Capslocke fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 03:00
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Nigulus Rex posted:Today I just switched from comcast to a gigabit fiber connection. I'm using the ASUS RT-N66U flashed with dd-wrt v24-21676. For whatever reason, the router is throttling the ethernet port connection down to a little over 100 mbps and the wifi to about 35. Right into the wall without the router, it's completely fine. I've checked all the cables, tried various cables from the wall to the router, etc, but everything is fine. I'm not sure what the issue is. Anyone have any thoughts? QoS is and has been disabled by the way. First thing I'd do is flash the router with the stock firmware, or a fork of the stock firmware like Merlin (http://asuswrt.lostrealm.ca/download), I vaguely recall ddwrt not being the best for Asus devices (can't use proprietary hardware acceleration in ddwrt). I personally run Merlin myself. But in general you'll see a bit less than 1Gbps even after you figure out what this issue is, that router is a bit weak for full 1Gbps routing. SmallNetBuilder puts the ceiling at around 732 Mbps with LAN to WAN routing even with the stock firmware. John Capslocke fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Mar 27, 2015 |
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Mar 27, 2015 20:38
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Keep in mind with Asus routers, ddwrt doesn't have access to the proprietary hardware acceleration, and you'll see decreased performance across the board, not just through the VPN (you don't want to do VPNing on a SOHO router though, seriously though, tried it for a client on a RTN66U, caps at maybe 15Mbps). You're much better off using merlin's fork of the stock firmware which still included the proprietary driver blobs and has support for exactly what you want to do. Firmware: https://github.com/RMerl/asuswrt-merlin Pertenant docs: https://github.com/RMerl/asuswrt-merlin/wiki/Custom-config-files John Capslocke fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Apr 10, 2015 |
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Apr 10, 2015 19:54
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MustardFacial posted:[edit] can you plug a powerline adapter into a power strip? I may have to get slightly creative with placement otherwise. Most powerline kits recommend a dedicated outlet for highest possible sync speeds.
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Apr 10, 2015 20:43
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Mantle posted:Is the RT-AC66U just an AC version of the RT-N66U, with all the same custom firmware support? I can get the AC for about $135 and the N for about $105. Or the WDR4300 for $60. I do have a slight preference to Tomato over dd-wrt but as long as it is rock solid stable I don't reeeeeeealy care. Unless there is something you KNOW you need Tomato/DD-WRT to do, I would suggest sticking with stock or using a fork of stock called Asuswrt-Merlin (http://asuswrt.lostrealm.ca/features), it's quite powerful out of the box, if it's not exposed in the webui you can telnet/ssh in and set nvram values by hand, AND you lose hardware acceleration on Tomato/DD-WRT (they refuse to include the closed source binary drivers to do so)
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Aug 29, 2015 07:22
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Antillie posted:In the case of TWC the 6121 is all you need if you only want the 50mbps tier. The 100mbps tier does need the 6141 though. Needs and budget and all that. Just because you don't have a need for blazing speeds doesn't mean you shouldn't get a better modem. The more channel bonding accessible to you the less likely you're to have problems with congestion, at this point BUYING a 4 channel modem is bordering on idiotic.
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Sep 1, 2015 17:33
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Antillie posted:I agree more channels to bond is better. But even if your modem can bond 8 the ISP may only bond 4 if you are not paying for a higher speed tier. However the price difference between the two is small enough that I think springing for the 6141 is probably a good idea in general. So yeah, your right. If it's a recommended modem, its more than likely they support that many channels. It's in the ISP's best interest to support as many channels as they can with current infrastructure to save them money. With DOCSIS 3.0/256QAM modulation they can push ~42.8Mbps per channel, but if everyone is using the same channel(s), no one is ever going to get that kind of speed.
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Sep 1, 2015 17:53
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Naffer posted:Has anyone compared this thing to the "Network Box" that Google already ships with google fiber? Well the Network Box can actually NAT at 1Gbps so it's already better 
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Sep 5, 2015 20:17
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Acer Pilot posted:I'm looking for something to replace my Asus WL-520GU and am currently looking at the ASUS RT-N66U. VPN clients on Asus devices (and most home routers) are for the whole network, and not one specific device. They're also grossly under-powered to do tunneling like that at decent speeds, with a PPPoE connection I'm lucky to get 10-15Mbps on my 25Mbps connection. HOWEVER there is another option (this is what I do), if you use a geo-DNS server like Unotelly/Unblock.us/etc, you can install asuswrt-merlin (fork of the official Asus firmware), and have certain domains resolve with a specific DNS server using dnsmasq. No overhead of encryption/decryption (FULL connection speed), only Netflix would be modified (all devices would have [insert region] Netflix, though, if that is a concern), no VPN required. Some examples: https://gist.github.com/epeli/9789586 http://www.snbforums.com/threads/adding-unblock-us-dns-using-dnsmasq.8266/ http://www.snbforums.com/threads/iptables-chromecast-netflix-tunlr.14296/ John Capslocke fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Sep 15, 2015 |
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Sep 15, 2015 20:18
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Deeters posted:I'm having an issue with my desktop not getting full speed internet until I reboot it. I shut it off before bed, then don't turn it on until around 4 the next day. At that point speedtest tells me I have a ~10 Mbps download, when I have access to 50. Any of my other devices, both wired and wireless, get 50 Mbps. Rebooting either the router or the computer fixes it until the next day. I have Win10 (but noticed this on 7 before I upgraded) and the latest driver for my network adapter. I have a combo router/modem, the Surfboard SBG6580, which I just wiped to factory settings to see if that would help (it did for about a day). What else can I check? Since it's only effecting one computer, Cox claims it's nothing to do with them. Sounds like your computer is failing to negotiate the link speed properly, try changing the interface speed from auto to 1000Mbps.
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Oct 1, 2015 23:49
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Deeters posted:Wired. If there is not an option on the router, set the rate on the network interface on your computer, under the properties of your ethernet card. 
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Oct 2, 2015 01:10
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Karthe posted:I had looked at these before but they seem waaaaay overkill for a household. I found a 5-port w/POE version, though, for $60 so maybe I'll go with that. Thanks for the suggestion. They might seem overkill, but any run of the mill box-store router will run you $50-100, and will include wireless that you wont be using anyways, nothing wrong with investing a bit more in something a whole lot better.
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Oct 2, 2015 19:13
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GobiasIndustries posted:I appreciate this advice; I've already set up DD-WRT for a segmented vlan on its own IP range; any devices that connect to that SSID will be segmented and can only communicate with the internet. I've also set it up for bandwidth monitoring so if they're abusing I'll know and cut them off. You seem like a Comcast supervisor; sorry that I'm cutting into your profits but I'll be fine here. Yeah... no amount of money is worth the legal woes you open yourself up to doing this. Forget even the argument about it being against your ISP's TOS, if they do anything illegal you're hosed, no amount of "b..bu..but sir it was from the other VLAN" will save you as the connection is in YOUR name. Caught torrenting? Enjoy that C&D. Looking at child porn? Enjoy the police to your front door. etc. Tell them to go get a like $20/mo 6Mbps ADSL line, and have no part in this.
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Oct 3, 2015 07:24
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LeninVS posted:Im having an issue with a completely inconsistent connection from my ISP Cogeco in Canada. Cogeco is known for having congested to gently caress nodes between being oversold and not sunsetting old Docsis 2 equipment, pressure them continually til they admit it, at which point they'll usually cut your bill until they split it.
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Oct 5, 2015 05:28
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LeninVS posted:last time I called them they said there was no congestion in my area, and that it must be my setup at home. Logically, what else could it be? You've got a new modem, all new physical media, multiple PC's. I think its safe to say you've done you due diligence. Only other thing I can suggest,when you internet is slowing down, go to http://192.168.100.1 which should be the webui for your modem, grab a screen capture of the signal levels.
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Oct 5, 2015 16:46
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unruly posted:So, question about powerline. I live in a condo that is connected (possibly electrically) to other condo units. What would happen if multiple people had these units installed? Would we see each other's networks? The TP Link adapters I have, you can configure them to be secure with a unique network name/key much like a wireless network. http://www.tp-link.com/en/faq-258.html
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Oct 9, 2015 23:26
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The Gunslinger posted:Hmm ok. I'm pretty weary of powerline network stuff after the first generation issues but I guess its been awhile. I was looking at some benchmarks and it appears that the latency is much lower overall even if it can't hit the same bandwidth maximums as wireless-AC. It's all well and good to look at benchmarks, but powerline adapters are pretty much a "buy and see how it works in your specific house" type hardware. Different wiring, outlets being on different phases, appliances putting noise in the line, etc, will all impact your performance. That said I've been very happy with my TPLink 1Gbps set. It's not as good as a dedicated cat6 (obviously) but they sync at around 800Mbps in my house, and don't add any discernible latency. John Capslocke fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Oct 15, 2015 |
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Oct 15, 2015 05:30
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Shaocaholica posted:Is powerline stuff really affected by 'simple' extension cords? I can't imagine a good extension cord could be any worse than the house wiring inside the walls (on an average aged home). Extension cords? No. Power bars that do line conditioning and such? Yes.
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Oct 21, 2015 03:51
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Sir Unimaginative posted:You could do Merlin, but unless you know it does something that ASUSWRT doesn't it's not worth it. At least merlin packages the closed binary blobs, so you still maintain hardware acceleration, which is often lost from third party firmwares. And adds a bunch of cool options, mine personal favourite being jffs scripts.
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Oct 21, 2015 05:57
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Shaocaholica posted:Netgear support page says you shouldn't even use extension cords(differentiated from surge protectors). Maybe they're just being overly cautious. House wiring/extension cords aren't shielded so if you have a long run/coiled cord/etc you'll start getting EMI, it'll still work but you'll run the risk of lowering your sync rate. Things that actively scrub the power have the potential of removing the signal entirely.
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Oct 22, 2015 02:20
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the nicker posted:I don't suppose anyone in here is familiar with carrier level fiber-to-the-home stuff, specifically Calix? I have an 854G-1 router from my ISP and when I call them they simply can't enable bridge mode on it. They say they're looking all through the config and they don't see it as an option, then eventually come back and say "yeah i guess it's just not possible on these". I've never used Calix gear, but it sounds like you're only changing running config and not saving the changes to the config file Generally this is done with a command like "nvram commit" on a lot of devices, poke around for something like that in the calix device. It's likely not exposed on the web interface and you'll have to telnet/ssh in to the device and issue the command. John Capslocke fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Nov 10, 2015 |
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Nov 10, 2015 07:12
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Somewhat off topic but, you really shouldn't be using FTP over the internet (or locally, depending on how sensitive the data is), its all plain-text.
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Feb 9, 2016 21:22
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Perplx posted:that 6ms can get multiplied though, in the worst case: Still well below any discernible amount of time, unless you have the browsers benchmark tools open.
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Feb 9, 2016 22:40
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Just because it's not replying to ICMP ECHO doesn't mean its the issue,tons of stuff doesn't respond to it or deprioritizes it.
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Feb 11, 2016 03:58
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GobiasIndustries posted:Probably a dumb question but if my ISP decides to use IPv6 for my WAN address, does that mean I need to move everything in my internal network over to IPv6 addresses or can I stick with IPv4 for internal stuff? Generally they run concurrently (dual stack), though everything prefers IPv6 generally. eg: My desktop both has an internal IPv4 from my router that it got from DHCP, and a public IPv6 address that it got delegated with DHCPv6-PD.
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Feb 19, 2016 04:01
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