|
Golbez posted:A few weeks ago I asked about a problem I had with my cable modem. If I was downloading a large file, or if my torrents were downloading too fast, my modem (and I confirmed it was the modem, not my router or my PC) would stop working for about a minute, then start back up like nothing was wrong. Sounds like bullshit, but OTOH who is your ISP? It is possible for the cable company to choose to limit your connection speed, but usually when that happens it is more a case of "you downloaded 200GB and we want to cut you off, so your speed is only 1mb until the end of the month/year/century/etc". But yes, you can limit the speed of your download. In uTorrent (I assume that is what your using) right click the torrent -> bandwidth allocation -> set download limit. Options range from a few hundred kb to 1000kb/s. Quite honestly, if the signal if fubared enough for them to admit there is a problem with the upstream then most likely the downstream is hosed too. . . It is also possible to some degree that if your upload is hosed and your not seeding (uploading) then the torrent tracker could be limiting you download speed, but I think that is extremely unlikely in this scenario. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 03:55 on May 26, 2012 |
#
¿
May 26, 2012 03:30
|
|
If only I could reliably replicate the problem.
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 06:02 |
|
|
This month, I have discovered that apparently my Netgear WNDR3400 has security issues. I had my DNS changed to the "gently caress you have another pop-up!" server, then I did a firmware upgrade, hard-reset, and disabled remote admin, disabled WPS, changed admin password, and changed my wifi security to WPA2 with a new password. Less than an hour later, a foreign MAC address was already connected and flooding my router's log with failed admin login attempts. Would this fine piece of networking hardware be worth unloading on the unsuspecting victims of What router should I replace this with? I only desire something with gigabit and wifi-N. I would like to have the option for AC too, and I would also like to be able to setup a guest network for when family visits. On the topic of guest networks, I haven't messed with the settings much but it looks like I would need to set it up with either no security or it's own password, can I make a guest network safe with something like a captive gateway and no security? I don't own any Apple products, and I don't want to have to try to figure out how to connect an iPad when a clueless guest shows up, I would rather just let them connect, and then see a webpage requiring a password. Similarly, can I restrict the speed to dial-up and block every protocol known to man except for HTTP on the guest network? Also, because I want to be cheap, is there any sort of fun project I can do with my old routers? I have a WRT54G v8, WRT54G2 v1, and a WRT150N v1.1 Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 18:28 on May 14, 2014 |
|
#
¿
May 14, 2014 17:26
|
|
|
CuddleChunks posted:Turn off remote administration. I did disable remote admin. The foreign MAC address showed up as one of the wifi connected devices despite me setting up WPA2 and disabling WPS. In the meantime, I switched back to an ancient WRT54G v8 running stock Linksys firmware and I haven't seen my neighbor's laptop connecting to my wifi again. So, apparently one of my not-so-friendly neighbors has found a way to get into my WNDR3400. I can either keep trying to mess with settings (which probably won't do poo poo), convert to DD-WRT, or buy a new router. I am liking the new router option the most because I would really like to have gigabit, but I see the OP was last edited in November 2012. Should I still use that list of routers or should I buy something else?
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2014 00:20
|
|
|
Scott808 posted:Is there a reason you don't just throw DD-WRT on your WNDR3400? Can you disable wireless admin access, or is that not an option for you? My understanding is that the current version of dd-wrt was released a few years ago, has it been updated in the meantime? Why have people switched to tomato, is dd-wrt still good? Flashing dd-wrt on the WNDR3400 is an option I considered, and it would be the cheapest solution, but it would not get me gigabit. In the end, I decided to order a refurbished Netgear R6300 for $85. Now to cross my fingers and hope it's a good router, or learn how to use Amazon's return policy.
|
|
#
¿
May 19, 2014 20:46
|
|
|
Lolcano Eruption posted:What I'm seeing from the current wireless technology roadmap is that wireless range is actually decreasing due to using higher frequencies. If you're planning for the future, you might need to consider needing multiple APs. So wire that house up good. But AC is supposed to have better range than N thanks to beam forming. I still want a router at either end of my house because of bandwidth sharing, most of my devices still use wifi-G and it's (theoretical) 54Mbps is fine for one device but kinda slow when split between 5 devices. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 12:40 on Jul 7, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jul 7, 2014 11:55
|
|
|
At one end of my house I have a Buffalo WZR-1750AC, at the other end I have a WRT54G2 v4 that I want to use an access point. Both routers are running DD-WRT. I want to be able to watch Netflix in my bedroom, but all my devices seem to want to connect to the Buffalo router with a lovely signal that buffers a ton. I have the SSIDs and security all set the same, I did notice that the Buffalo was set to run wifi-N on the 2.4GHz channel and the 54G of course only ran G. Would this explain why all my devices want to connect to the Buffalo even if the signal sucks? I switched both routers to G only now, so far 3 of four devices are connected to the 54G, but Netflix is still buffering a bit. Do I really need a router with more than 16MB RAM just to act as an access point? Also of note, my neighbor two houses down has like 5 wireless networks and I pick up a better signal from his routers that I get from my Buffalo router. 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 7, 2014 02:53
|
|
|
caberham posted:Yeah having same ssid messes things up. If you want roaming around the house with zero handoff try ubquiti. Their n series are good but newer ac models don't have zero hand off I am not familiar with Ubiquiti's products, assuming I go this route what would I need? Is the UniFi AP what I need, and if so would I one work my Buffalo router or would I need two Ubiquiti APs?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 8, 2014 02:38
|
|
|
If I am trying to increase the range of my Buffalo's 2.4GHz band, should I consider a $50 WN2000RPT or a $20 WNR2000? The $50 option is specifically for extending range as a repeater, but I assume I could probably load DD-WRT on the cheaper WNR2000 and get about the same results.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2014 00:44
|
|
|
UndyingShadow posted:I have 3 ceiling fans, 2 different tower fan, and a big high rpm metal fan, and I've never had a problem. I thing you're worrying too much. Is this 'big high rpm metal fan' hanging directly over your head? 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 25, 2014 17:39
|
|
|
I have a buffalo ac1750 turned down to 60mw at one end of the house on the main level, and then a netgear wndr3400 cranked up to 100mw at the opposite end of my house cranked up to 100mw. I turned the buffalo up to 100 and it just quit responding to anything and still did not provide coverage, so I turned it down to 60 to try to convince my devices to use the netgear. Apparently either my wndr3400 is a pos or the wood floor is impossible for WiFi to penetrate since all my devices above the netgear still choose to connect to the buffalo despite having no bars of signal. When I manage to con my tablet into choosing the netgear, it registers about 50% signal but often times can not reach the internet. For example, I reset both routers at about 10pm, now at 2am both routers would not respond to the outside world. I could not reach them via IP over WiFi, or by IP on my wired desktop. After pulling the power to reset each router they respond great to the web interface (wired or wireless) but less than 20min later the netgear is being an rear end in a top hat and not serving up the internet. Did I just somehow manage to buy two of the most crappy consumer routers made? Is there a way to get a log from dd-wrt which might reveal the router's performance issues?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2014 09:50
|
|
|
Tapedump posted:Do you realize that, among other issues created by such a TX power increase, your client devices must be able to communicate back to the router to function properly? Their ability to do so is unchanged (well, not improved) by a router's radio TX power increase. That would explain a lot about the power increase not making much difference. Tapedump posted:Wi-if is a two way street of sorts, My router locations are less than ideal because I wish to have my router and modem in my "office" on one wall of the house, and (unless I call a pro $$$) I can only run a cable to underneath a bathroom on the opposite end of my house. I chose to usea WNDR3400 instead of an Unifi because the WNDR3400 I already owned the Netgear.  Key: Green = upstairs cable outlet Red = downstairs cable outlet Blue = Gigabit ethernet I managed to run Brown line = finished area of basement Everything to the north of the brown line (north is top of image) is finished in the basement which would make running cable a pain in the rear end. . . I suppose speelunking in my attic is a possibility but it's loving cold up there right now and my attic is a (most likely) impenetrable maze of trusses. I believe my most successful option will be to place my Netgear router above the fireplace (possibly with the modem there too) and use the 2.4GHz to serve up wifi on both routers, and use the 5GHz as a link only between the Netgear and Buffalo. I don't have enough devices that use 5GHz yet to really miss the 5GHz band or AC capabilities. *edit* after setting up a WDS link between my two routers three times I have come to the conclusion this just won't happen. Although I believe both routers use Broadcom radios I'm aware they are very different tech and most likely incompatible. After completing the setup multiple times I started to notice a trend that the Buffalo would become extremely slow, and the Netgear would just plain quit responding with each router requiring a 30/30/30 reset to bring them back to life. The first two times I assumed I had simply keyed in a setting wrong, but on attempt 3 I think the WDS connection worked in that it showed up in the status but each router was soon unresponsive. Once I feel like messing with routers again I will attempt a "repeater bridge" setup or maybe continue my journey down the rabbit hole and register on the dd-wrt forum. 
Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Nov 2, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2014 16:32
|
|
|
caberham posted:I guess for the new AC routers, beamforming is a thing. I just checked DDWRT/OpenWRT/TomtaotUSB seems like there is no support for custom firmware yet? Are you saying there is no open firmware for new AC routers, or that the open firmware does not support beamforming? I can tell you that at least the Broadcom based Buffalo WZR-1750DHP had beamforming support in DD-WRT. Although I will admit the options are a little strange in that beamforming is listed twice and I really have no idea if it works or not. 
|
|
#
¿
Nov 9, 2014 15:16
|
|
|
Josh Lyman posted:Does it make sense to get a cheap $20 or $25 wireless router, put openWRT on it, and use it as a wireless bridge to ethernet for my desktop under the assumption it has stronger antennas than a wireless adapter? This is a good idea because you could boost the power on your routers to possibly get longer range, but otherwise I think it's a bad idea. It might work awesome, it might suck, a powerline or moca adapter will probably be more reliable. Frank Dillinger posted:Is there any point in buying a 300$ (Canadian) router like the nether nighthawk 7500? http://m.newegg.ca/Product/index?itemnumber=33-122-617 Nothing but  , apple routers are nice although not as customizable as other routers.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 12, 2014 04:19
|
|
|
I think my modem might be dieing. It is a Motorola SB6121, approximately 3 or 4 years old. In the last couple days I have noticed that it is resetting frequently. I suspect this could also be caused by my ISPs cable line setup- the main line goes into a 2 way splitter which feeds two 4-way splitters for the outlets in the house. I am no expert, but Google/internet rumors seems to suggest that could be really cutting down the signal going to the modem. The last time I called my ISP, they reset the modem and said everything looked perfect. That was about a month ago and I don't believe I can say the right magic words to convince them that there is a problem with the line or wiring in the demarcation box where are the splitters are located. I have screenshots of the signal from the modem and the modem log files, does this appear to be likely an issue with the modem due to age or should I call and demand my ISP send a tech out?  
|
|
#
¿
Mar 18, 2016 19:50
|
|
|
I Like Jell-O posted:Your signal levels are perfect, your problem is absolutely not caused by the splitter configuration. I'd say it's about equally likely the problem is caused by a bad modem or some kind of intermittent signal problem, depending on what you mean by "resetting". I called my ISP (Cox) Friday, the first call they said my modem was the problem. I went to Best Buy and picked up an SB6141 and called to activate it, at which point they said there was an outage in my area. My old 6121 has now logged more than 24hrs without a T4 timeout reset. I guess the 6121 will live on, I just wish Cox would have admitted their outage on the first call.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 20, 2016 14:44
|
|
|
On3moresoul posted:So I have been having pretty poor wi-fi reception in my apartment and I am in need of advice. The kitchen in the center of your apartment is going to kill the wifi signal because of the metal appliances. 2.4GHz is already a bad choice for apartments because you can only use 1, 6, or 11 without causing overlap. 5GHz has more channels to handle interference from the neighbors but it doesn't go through walls as well so it's range is often shorter. Relocating the router near the center of the apartment is your best option. It's possible the router's range might be decreasing as it ages, but really you still have the router in a poor location.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2016 20:29
|
|
|
Is it a bad idea to use a 66 clip block for ethernet? My house has 6 runs of Cat 5e hooked up as phone jacks, they all are terminated in a cramped as hell corner right next to my electric panel and a big sewer drain, it's not the ideal place for a server closet. I could potentially mount a cat 5e patch panel, but I simply don't want a patch panel in this location, I don't intent to put any other networking equipment nearby, I simply want to run additional ethernet lines back to my office. I don't believe I would have any need for plugs, and I think a 66 block would be significantly cheaper than a patch panel. As far as performance, it is my understanding the best I can get out of the Cat 5E is gigabit. I thought that in order to achieve that speed, there are requirements like not stripping too much of the sheathing off and having less than an inch of the pairs untwisted, can a 66 block be wired to allow gigabit speeds?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 17, 2016 15:27
|
|
|
Ciaphas posted:I meant more along the lines of a device coming in saying "I'm 192.168.0.10" or whatever by static assignment and the router/gateway responding "gently caress off, get your IP from DHCP like everyone goddamn else" and keeps it off the network until someone changes the settings. LegoPirateNinja posted:Please help. I have been using DD-WRT on my Asus RT-N16 for many years, but it's time for an upgrade. Single-band without ac support just isn't cutting it anymore. I guess what I mean to say is you can get official DD-WRT from Buffalo, the performance should be good enough but not incredible, or you can flash DD-WRT onto another router and hope it works, which it probably will unless you end up buying a new unsupported revision. manwithoutskin posted:What exactly is the difference between powercycling my comcast modem and using their phone service to send a 'refresh signal'? Watermelon Daiquiri posted:I have ATT gigapower and I finally got tired of the official router's slowdowns and crappy wifi (It frequently slowed down to 50-150Mbps or much less and failed to connect to pages until I reset the router completely), so I bought a ERL, Unifi AC-Lite, and a 8 port switch because I need everything on one network and I didn't want to deal with a software bridge. The Ubiquiti hardware is amazing after I finally worked out how to get everything set up (seriously, why not just set up DHCP as default?), and I was pleasantly surprised with ATT when I found out that setting the ERL into the Uverse router's 'DMZPlus' mode set it up as a bridge or something! The ERL is getting my public IP, not an internal one from the ATT router. While it is a bit annoying not having everything integrated into one box, they are an awesome pair of equipment. I just wish I could cut out the ATT router completely, especially since I don't have cable. It's not terribly bad, unless you need SIP ALG (ip phone) or IGMPv3 (TV). I still hate ATT after using U-verse, but I didn't have gigabit which I am sure is not being run over 50 year phone service lines.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 21, 2016 16:20
|
|
BUT THERE'S SO MANY ROUTERS JESUS CHRIST
|
I have a Buffalo WZR-1750DHP, on Saturday morning I noticed Netflix on my PS3 (2.4GHz) couldn't stream worth poo poo upstairs about 20 feet away. Do after power cycling my equipment a couple times, I hit the "restore factory defaults" in DD-WRT and all hell broke loose. My phone which used to be able to connect reliably started giving me password errors approximately every 15 minutes and no2 it flat out won't connect at all. . . The router is just over 2 years old (Amazon order was placed July 2014) and as far as I can tell my attempts to FR the thing have killed the wifi. I can still sure wired fine but wifi won't connect at all. I tried refreshing to a stock (DD-WRT based) firmware and it says "update succesfull" but dumps me back to a non-Buffalo DD-WRT. Wired connections are still working great, but I guess it's time to resurrect my WNDR3400 until I can order a C9. . . But I just thought I would check here to see if someone might know anything about FRing DD-WRT and murdering the wifi, I have tried searching the forums a little but I'm not seeing promising results. I am just a little impressed the Wifi went from working fine Friday to no connection at all on Monday.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 11, 2016 03:32
|
|
|
Fhqwhgads posted:Is this where I ask what cable modem to get to tell Time Warner to gently caress off with their $10/mo rental charge? I'm living in NYC and am stuck with Time Warner moving to my new place. Currently, they've got me on an ARRIS router DG1670A and I want to just buy my own. I'm assuming a Motorola Surfboard is the way to go? What's the best one I can buy off Amazon that works with them? I have my computer wired to my router and the TV, PS4, WiiU, and two smartphones on wireless through my own router currently and the modem itself is only wired to the router. I'm guessing the Motorola MB7420 or the Arris SB6190? As for the router, I would consider upgrading it simply because the E2000 is not a simultaneous dual band router. You will want 2.4GHz for *long range older devices (and even some new shittier devices like PS4s and Rokus without 5GHz. . .) and you want 5GHz for all your modern devices because the speed is just so much better. 2.4GHz penetrates walls better than 5GHz and thus can have better range, although this is often offset by the fact that literally everything causes interference for 2.4GHz wifi (microwaves, baby monitors, cordless phones, etc) and beamforming for 5GHz is supposed to make the range as good as 2.4GHz.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2016 04:08
|
|
|
The Midniter posted:I just bought a house and also got a work-from-home option made available. The room I will be using for my office does not have a cable connection, and my modem and router are currently on the other side of the house. The dock for my WFH setup needs to be connected via ethernet. What's the best option for a device that picks up my existing wifi signal and has an ethernet input? I know something like this will hurt my bandwidth for the ethernet-connected devices but that's not a huge issue as I don't use all that much for work.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2017 19:50
|
|
|
The Midniter posted:Yeah, unfortunately the house was built in 1951 so I somewhat doubt the powerline extender would work. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Jan 20, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2017 21:06
|
|
|
I'm thinking about trying to switch ISPs, I currently use my local cable monopoly Cox and own a SB6121 modem. My next option would be the phone monopoly AT&T, I previously had AT&T internet and U-Verse TV about two years ago, and I simply do not wish to ever use one of their modems again. Every hour the DNS would stop resolving for 5 minutes and each time the modem would log no response from an AT&T DNS server. When I looked into options to set my own DNS or use my own modem at the time, all I could find was people talking about how you had to have your own modem to be able to use U-Verse, the TV side of things. I think AT&T might have like given up on U-Verse since now they just offer internet and DirectTV in my area. I've spoken to a couple AT&T agents and read a few forums posts, AT&T sales is happy to say "any modem will work" but they can not provide a list of modems or what even what type of DSL modem is necessary. At best I think I need an ADSL2+ modem only because the website lists only 1 speed in my area - 24mbps, the max speed for an ADSL2+ modem. But it's also possible it could be a VDSL (up to 50mbps), VDSL2, or VDSL2+ connection, I simply doubt it's a VDSL since if they were using VDSL then surely they should offer VDSL speeds in my area. I have two more ISP options, for cable I could go with toast.net or DSLExtreme. I think I want one of these ISPs just to avoid the big ISPs, but I'm noticing the smaller ISPs seem to have websites from the 90s but they seem to be a lot more up front with the terms and offer things like a static IP address. That said, I tried to contact toast.net using both the webchat and phone number and I couldn't get any response. . . the web chat let me talk to Chris E from the void but there was no response, most likely nobody there, and the phone number only went to voicemail. How is even possible for there to be another option for cable or DSL in my area?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2017 14:49
|
|
|
emocrat posted:Update for anyone who cares about this. Just spent an hour on the phone with Comcast and through 3 different levels of support. First guy was an idiot who was like, you a;ready have that (2gig symmetrical), I assured him I did not.  but at least my cost of housing is significantly cheaper than yours, and best of all, I don't have to call Comcast for tech support.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2017 16:17
|
|
|
Atomizer posted:Hi, I've read the OP and the past couple of pages, and have a networking issue that isn't related to DIY hardware. I've been dealing with home networking for many years but have a problem related to ISP equipment that I think is more software-related and I can't figure it out.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 11, 2017 02:05
|
|
|
Raere posted:Is it feasible to replace telephone wiring in a house with cat6? I'm willing to have an electrician do it, but I'm wondering if it's even possible. The house that I'm buying doesn't seem to have any sort of central hub, just a telephone box on the outside of the house. I'd like to have ethernet jacks in every room that go to a patch panel in one of the rooms where I can put a switch.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 11, 2017 21:24
|
|
|
Atomizer posted:FYI, AT&T [U-Verse] uses equipment that bridges Ethernet, HomePNA coax (not MoCA, apparently,) and then the VDSL and WiFi on the gateway. The receivers are nice because they're networked throughout the house via coax and then I can plug my PC equipment in via Ethernet and it all just works. When I had U-verse a couple years ago, the installer said the coax method was the old technology and it was switched to a main ethernet wired box and wireless wifi boxes, which needed an additional wifi-N box to sit next to the modem. As of today, in my area AT&T will only offer a DirectTV bundle. Maybe my market sucks, but I wouldn't count on much future support for U-verse TV be it over wifi or coax.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2017 03:05
|
|
|
cosmicjim posted:I have att uverse dsl. My connection is randomly dropping and it’s going to be a week before a tech can come out to decide if it’s my line or modem. I have a 3rd party modem to try but hooking it up gives me a solid power and wireless light, but the “dsl” light keeps blinking. It’s supposed turn solid when it’s talking with ATT. Anyone have experience using 3rd party modems with Uverse dsl? It’s my understanding that light needs to be solid before I even get to the point of setting the router up.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 4, 2018 18:35
|
|
|
I have an Asus q200e laptop which doesn't stay connected to the wifi at school, I think the antenna might be the reason. I doubt my school wifi has the best signal considering there are often a lot of users, but I have never noticed this problem before on any other device including an HP DM1z or an HP Jaguar laptop. One thing I do know is my other laptops (and I assume my phone and tablet as well) have 2 wifi antennae. My laptop (Asus q200e) currently only has one black wired main antenna, and a spot for an optional white auxiliary antenna which I ordered from eBay. When looking on Google, I see a lot of reviews stating the wifi has limited range but the reviews don't say if that is because it's using a budget chipset, or the single antenna. The stock wifi card is an Azurewave AR5B125 which uses an Atheros AR9485 chipset, I have replaced this with the wifi card (Ralink RT5390) pulled from my DM1z since that one managed to stay connected so that might help me determine if this is a wifi card or antenna issue, I also have an Intel 7260HW card that I will install after class. The Atheros and Ralink are both single band bgn cards, the Intel is a dual band AC card. I don't know enough about wifi chipsets to say if the Atheros or Ralink is better but the DM1z with two antennae didn't have wifi issues. Does this sound like an antenna or chipset problem? *For my inital testing, I think the Ralink RT5390 appears to be staying connected better than the the Atheros AR9485, however I haven't been using it as long or in a crowded environment yet. I looked up that both the Ralink and Atheros are 1x1 modules, but that is a little surprising since the Ralink was originally connected to two antennae. Either I'm reading the specs wrong, or the number of antenna connected does not determine how many channels the chip has? I know both cards have two antennae connectors, I'm still a little surprised that the Atheros only had 1 antenna but now I'm really not sure if the single antenna should effect the range and signal quality, or just the speed. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Feb 15, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2019 14:31
|
|
|
guppy posted:My first question is always going to be whether you're up to date on drivers, not just for the wifi adapter but also any chipset drivers etc. There's also a lot of other relevant information to gather. What does it look like when you have connection issues? Does it connect and then stop working later, or never connect at all? Do you actually lose the network connection completely, or do you remain connected to the access point but lose the ability to reach network resources? Do you have this problem regardless of proximity to an access point? In most cases access points are visible and ceiling-mounted, but may be wall-mounted depending on room layout and construction. Do you have connectivity issues at places other than your school? In short, it was working pretty good for a while, then failed to work, and worked after rebooting but soon gave up entierly. If the latop was able to connect to WiFi, I would either have glorious internet, or more often just a "connected, no internet" message. As for proximity to the access point I simply have not noticed any access points in any of the rooms I've been in, normally I know what to look for but I either haven't looked around enough or I am probably not very close. The issues were first noticed in a class room, I suspect the access point could have been out in a hall. I then noticed issues at the student union where I'm certain I should have been able to see an access point but I have no idea how close or far away I was, but I do know almost everyone else in the union was also using a laptop so I imaging the wifi would have sucked regardless. I plan to keep testing, at this point I'm just kinda hoping that this might be related to the laptop only having 1 antenna, I hope installing the second antenna might improve the connection. As for the Intel, what do you dislike about the adapter? In general, do you prefer Intel, Atheros, or Ralink wifi chips? Is there anything about the adapter that might cause it to have shorter range? I don't believe I can test this adapter in my Asus laptop until I install the second antenna, I plan to keep using the Ralink chip and I will do my best to try to track whether or not I feel it offers a more reliable connection. This morning I think it was more reliable. . . but the roads were also icey and there were a lot less people on campus so I would expect better wifi regardless. As for channels, I know my adapter is only 2.4GHz which does kinda suck in some ways, granted, can 5GHz wifi handle more connections than 2.4GHz wifi? M school does offer 5GHz wifi in a lot of buildings, the 2.4 and 5 use the same name so it's hard to tell, but on some of the newer engineering buildings I've heard they use 5GHz only so upgrading to a dual band is going to be a good idea for me.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2019 20:09
|
|
|
E2M2 posted:So I just upgraded my Comcast plan to the Cable/Internet/Phone plan, but I'm looking at the modems that you need and I'm either looking at a Internet only or Internet/Phone modem. Its like a difference of $50-70. I'm not sure if I'm even gonna use the phone? For a 1000mbps plan. As for the modems you are looking at, if I were buying I would choose the Arris SB8200 simply because I like the Arris name and the go to modems used to be the SB6183 and similar DOCSIS 3 modems. DOCSIS 3.1 is a new beast so that might not be true anymore, but for a while Arris was highly recommended. Unfortunately modems are kinda like your fridge, when they are on you know they are on and most of the time they run happily with no intervention (your router on the other hand has a million settings and likes to have it's plug pulled every once in a while). Because of this, I have not read any good reviews that say if an Arris is better than a Netgear or a Motorola, in part it's hard to pinpoint is the failure caused by your modem or your ISP. That said, some people who are more knowledgeable on electronics have disassembled Arris and Netgear modems and spit balled their opinions of the hardware build quality, often with statements like "this one has a larger heat sink, therefore it has a more reliable cooling system!" It's been a long time since I've read one of the amateur tear downs, but in general I remember people were highly impressed by Arris build quality. Netgear is probably a good choice, I simply haven't read anything really good (or bad) about Netgear modems. As for Motorola, don't buy them for the name alone. Motorola used to design the Surfboard series of modems back in the DOCSIS 3 days, then split off/sold that division to Arris. In the past few years, Motorola decided they want back in the modem business, but they are not designing the equipment, the new Motorola modems are rebadged designs from Zoom Telephonics. Specwise, the best I can find is that the Arris SB8200 can support 2Gbps in the future, the Netgear can support 1Gbps, and the Motorola/Zoom can support 3.8Gbps- this is estimated by the number of gigabit ports on the back of the modem (Arris 2, Netgear 1, Motorola
|
|
#
¿
Feb 25, 2019 15:49
|
|
|
coke posted:You know what's the more infuriating thing? You wont be able to fix this at all with the new firmware version unless you somehow manually downgrade, which they might silently push the broken update again.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 26, 2019 03:42
|
|
|
coke posted:Don't buy anything online that's supposed to be supplied by the telco. That said, I highly doubt the BWG210 on Amazon is legit, but at the same time I am a little surprised to see an "illegal" product on Amazon. I expect illegal goods from eBay or Aliexpress, but not Amazon. Really you're just breaking a contract by buying AT&T's property instead of an obviously illegal act like buying street drugs.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 27, 2019 16:35
|
|
|
stevewm posted:From what I understand, AT&T uses 802.11x for authentication on UVerse. As for adding TV, I think you're right that you can not have U-Verse TV without an AT&T provided piece of poo poo Pace (or slightly less lovely Arris) gateway modem. That said, I started a chat with a
|
|
#
¿
Feb 27, 2019 22:27
|
|
|
coke posted:Giant wall of text incoming. I can't be too mad at AT&T since cable kinda did the same thing with fiber to the node, I wouldn't like having an AT&T digging up my yard to install a fiber line for my neighbor. I think the nightmare of paperwork to run fiber to the home is probably why AT&T didn't do it, and of course the unbound ISP thing. But I don't believe phone lines will ever have as much raw bandwidth as a coaxial cable. Ironically I think they could be competitive if they did something like Ethernet cat5e or cat6 to the home, except that would be limited to extremely short distances. I am assuming laying Ethernet might be cheaper and easier than fiber since it can be bent more and is easier to splice. I actually liked uverse tv a lot, quality kinda sucked but cable is compressed to hell and back too (I highly prefer watching football over the air compared to compressed to hell on cable). The biggest problem I had with uverse was the wireless box poo poo, the old generation used moca but now we're living in the future where you can move your tv 10 feet farther down the wall and reset your modem 3 times instead of just buying a longer coax cable. Or I can get direct TV since I only like watching TV when the weather is nice and I want to be outside, my neighbor's need the bandwidth more than me. As much as I hate my cable monopoly for repeatedly jacking up my rate as part of a loyalty deal their tech is nowhere near as crappy as AT&T.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 2, 2019 20:15
|
|
|
astral posted:The SB6183 is Amazon's deal of the day at $55.99: https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Surfboard-Cablevision-SB6183-Black/dp/B01ITIXYR0
|
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2019 14:51
|
|
|
Can Cat5e do 10G ethernet? Techincally, I think it is only rate for 1G, but I think for short runs 5e might be doable. If I am reading right, this website claims 5e can do 10G up to 45m and this youtube video is also promising. For me, my house came wired wtih 5e to each bedroom for use as phone lines. Thanks to having a finished basement and trusses in my attic running new cables would be a tremendous pain in the rear end. I don't own or plan to invest in any 10G equipment anytime soon, but I'm just thinking about the future where getting speeds above 1G looks promising with my existing wiring. What is the worst that could happen if I use 5e for 10G? I assume it simply wouldn't support the full speed and the hardware would negotiate a lower speed? Is there hardware out there that could be set to run at say 5G if I find a particular run is too long for a reliable 10G connection? I don't plan to invest in 10G anytime soon, I doubt I will ever even really need 10G in every room of my house, I am only curious about future possibilities.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 27, 2019 02:49
|
|
|
CrazyLittle posted:10gigabit over copper is a standard called 10GBASE-T. The CAT5e / CAT6 / CAT6A standards basically specify a minimum signal bandwidth capacity of the wiring (when installed properly), and CAT5e does not meet the guaranteed reqs for 10gig. BUT YES like you said it'll work as long as the cables carry the signal properly. CAT5e can typically do 10GBASE-T over short run patch cables, but structured and installed wiring may not work as well because of the signal loss inherent in connection between plugs, jacks, etc. I don't need 10g or even 5g or 25g yet, but I am still tempted to look into this farther. Thanks Ants posted:If I had Cat5e in my house currently, I wouldn't be bothered about changing it at all. If I was going to the effort of changing it though I'd probably pull conduits everywhere to make any future upgrade or replacement of damaged cable really easy.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 27, 2019 14:44
|
|
|
CrazyLittle posted:If it's actually cat5e and it was pulled into the walls, it's most likely solid core. You can, of course, verify by examining the punchdown on any jack.   Hooray, I'm 99% certain this means I do in fact have solid core, Cat5E in my walls. I'm kinda shocked that this time, when the builders chose to use whatever was on the truck they actually went the a good, more expensive option instead of the cheapest crappiest option like they did everywhere else (see my latest plumbing adventure in DIY. . .). I guess the next time I feel like my wallet is too heavy, I might try to get like maybe a pair of 10Gb NICs just to test this dumb idea. On a related note, all my cables are pulled to the same spot and unlabeled. I only have a couple wired as ethernet right now, and in order to find the right cables I went and removed the wall plates then stripped the blue pair, then pulled a couple wires from where they are co-located and stripped the blue pairs, and attached a 9v battery and used a multimeter to figure out which run went where. I'm sure this is ghetto, but it was the free and lazy option at the time. Is there is a better way short of actually like doing it the right way by punching terminals on every cable? Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Mar 29, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2019 18:02
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 06:02 |
|
|
CommieGIR posted:And that's why I'm ditching. I mean, non-synchronous is normal for cable connections anyways, but yeah, 50 meg upload on a 1GB connection is just sad. I still love Cox, I think they are faster than AT&T here and have waaaay better customer service than AT&T, or Comcast. But the price sucks here, I can't completely blame Cox since I assume they probably have better rates in other cities that have more competition.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2019 17:52
|
|