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I just moved into a new place with a D-Link DIR-615 router, and I'm having some serious connection problems with my apple products. My windows PCs seem to handle the wireless just fine but my iPhone and my Macbook Pro will seemingly at random drop the connection. I thought it was only when I was taxing the connection, but the Macbook's been having connection problems when just browsing the net. Is there an incompatibility I'm not aware of or is this just bad luck? Also, should I decide to buy a new router for whatever reason, if I set it up with the same SSID & password, all machines familiar with the old router should detect the network seamlessly, correct?
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Sep 8, 2012 07:34
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I've had an Asus RT-N16 that's worked really well for just over two years now, but I came home and it won't turn on. When I try to unplug+plug back in, the LEDs inside flash once then nothing. Can I assume this thing is completely toast?
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Feb 3, 2015 02:38
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Rexxed posted:Either the router is toast or the crappy transformer is. Sometimes those things die earlier than the unit itself. If you have a multimeter you could check if it's outputting the rated voltage. I checked and the transformer worked with my modem and the modem transformer gave the same problems on the router so yeah looks like it's gone  Didn't need to be spending money at the moment but at least now I've got an excuse to upgrade to something a bit better.
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Feb 3, 2015 22:13
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poxin posted:I had the exact thing happen about a week ago, same router. I took it apart, one of the capacitors near the power plug was bad. Soldered a new one in there and working like a champ again. Ooh, nice. I'll hold onto it instead of trashing it and see if I can fix it up down the line.
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Feb 6, 2015 19:55
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If I want to access my servers by name rather than IP (i.e typing in fileserver as opposed to 192.168.0.101:8080), would setting up a local DNS server be what I'm looking for? I've got a computer set up for lab work that I'd set it up on, if so.
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Mar 21, 2015 22:33
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In my rental apartment, there's no good way to get cables from where the internet comes in (2nd bedroom) to the entertainment center (living room) which has my consoles, and the antennas (at least for my HTPC and PS3) are kinda lovely. If I were to pick up another wireless router (maybe the Archer C7 for future AC), would putting the old one in the living room, hard-wiring the consoles to it and setting it up in bridge mode give me a more reliable connection?
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Aug 30, 2015 15:39
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I live in a townhouse and my neighbors want to pay me for access to my WiFi. They've also got an original Wii which is 802.11G only. Would the best thing to do be to have them pay for a router that'll only handle their traffic? Edit: temporarily, to test, I've set up a guest Wifi AP on my DD-WRT router but I can't stream a goddamn thing from my media server anymore and I suspect it's because of their Wii using netflix dragging everything down. GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Oct 3, 2015 |
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Oct 3, 2015 03:51
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lignicolos posted:I could be out of date with this info, but I think if you have a G client connected, then all of the clients connected will run at G speeds. Maybe that's causing the slowdown? Yeah this is definitely the truth. I can't do a thing streaming anymore now that her Wii is connected. I was looking for a reason to upgrade, anyway; I'll just connect the old router as an AP and go from there. Antillie posted:@GobiasIndustries: I appreciate this advice; I've already set up DD-WRT for a segmented vlan on its own IP range; any devices that connect to that SSID will be segmented and can only communicate with the internet. I've also set it up for bandwidth monitoring so if they're abusing I'll know and cut them off. You seem like a Comcast supervisor; sorry that I'm cutting into your profits but I'll be fine here. GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Oct 3, 2015 |
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Oct 3, 2015 07:01
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Yeah, sorry for that dickish reply, I don't know why I decided to go full rear end in a top hat there. I know my neighbors well; it's a single mother of two sub-8 kids. She literally doesn't even have a PC anymore because it broke and uses her iPhone for everything and the Wii for Netflix. If it were any other situation I'd totally tell them to deal with it on their own but I hang out with them and know their uses. I can also check the device client table from my router; on her SSID the only two MAC addresses are from Apple and Nintendo, if anything else starts popping up with regularity I'll know.
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Oct 3, 2015 16:19
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How can I find out which of my devices support the 5ghz band (N or AC)? I'm trying to figure out if it'd be worth it to buy a new router that supports 5ghz to clear up congestion from my apartment complex and move my current router to my home lab and let "legacy" devices connect to it wirelessly.
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Oct 21, 2015 00:57
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So I'm going to pull the trigger and pick up an Archer C7. I've gone through and evaluated and there are a few devices I own that only support 2.4ghz, and I really want to keep the speeds high for the devices that support AC (one of which is my media player). I'm thinking that I'll just create 3 APs: 1 AC only, 1 5ghz N, and one 2.4ghz N or below (using my old router as an AP and separately a switch for my home lab). Each will have their own SSID, keeping the slow devices from the fast ones and the devices that support the higher bands separated. A bit complicated, but should this work?
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Oct 22, 2015 03:44
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With DD-WRT firmware, can you easily isolate networks between the wireless and the physical? I'm looking to have my 'lab' on the physical ports and phone/ipad on the wireless but have them totally separate.
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Nov 4, 2015 03:31
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I actually just got a C7 in today because I needed AC & 5ghz N access for my media center and laptop (which I use for streaming). The range on 5ghz is definitely a bit worse than when I was using 2.4ghz but that's to be expected (my iPhone & iPad don't have full 'bars') but the speed difference and lack of interference totally make up for it. On my laptop (5ghz N), copying a 3gb file from my NAS used to take ~40 minutes, now it's 3. The Tx rate went from ~100Mbps to 300Mbps minimum now. The C7 is DD-WRT compatible but I don't even think I'll need to bother with that because it has native guest access built in (which my old router didn't have with stock firmware). I think the reason my range is affected is because I'm in an apartment where the heater & water units are right smack in the center of the apartment with the media center & router on opposite sides, but it's really been night and day as far as my speed is concerned.
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Nov 7, 2015 22:25
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If I set a router (Asus RT-N16) up in bridge mode, can I also set it up so that everything physically connected to that device is on its own network? Its my old router and I'd like to use it to connect my computer lab equipment to the internet without interfering with my casual equipment.
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Nov 13, 2015 00:23
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Gothmog1065 posted:Sounds like a crappy signal, the tech probably didn't check. If you want me to help you check, PM me (Or email me - my username @ gmail.com) It sounds more like he just has a slow, wireless G router; I've got 60/6 Comcast and was only getting those speeds while physically connected to my router; testing on a wireless N (2.4ghz band) connection dropped my results to between 10-15Mbps downstream. Without physically plugging in it's unlikely he'd be able to get anywhere near his max speeds, especially on a wireless G connection. @The Midniter, I've had good luck with Archer products; the C7 is what I have and it's fantastic, setup out of the box was extremely easy. It's a bit above your price range but it's got great reviews and if you keep your SSID (wireless network name) & password the same you should be able to just swap routers out with no issues. It also supports dual-band (2.4ghz & 5ghz) SSIDs so you can set up a separate (faster) network for your devices that can take advantage of 5ghz and keep your older slower stuff on the 2.4ghz band. It looks like the Archer C2 supports a lot of the same features and is within your price range, but it's a bit slower on the top-end of things.
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Nov 18, 2015 20:01
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Really weird issue that I ran into the other day: I'm using an Archer C7 to run 3 wireless SSIDs: a 5ghz, 2.4ghz, and a 2.4ghz guest network. I've got the router set use my Windows 2012 R2 server for the primary DNS; however if I try to switch the secondary DNS to my local backup DNS server (from an OpenDNS server), the guest network suddenly stops working and gets DNS timeout issues. The primary 5 & 2.4ghz networks are totally fine with this change. My guess as to why this is happening is that, in the router settings, 'Allow Guest To Access My Local Network' is not checked, meaning those computers wouldn't have access to use the local DNS servers, I assume? Is that the long and short of it?
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Dec 12, 2015 22:37
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The RT-N16 doesn't support 5ghz. In my situation (highly saturated 2.4ghz in my area) just having a 5ghz network cleared up just about all of my bandwidth issues with my wireless devices. What are you having issues with?
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Dec 14, 2015 01:01
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Not part of your setup, but your phones should also give you info on data usage per app; check to see if there are any apps that look crazy high in usage just in case something's bugged.
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Jan 30, 2016 20:54
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CrazyLittle posted:Are you sure about that? As far as I knew, the ER-X is PoE-passthrough only. I'm a bit confused, what would the point of PoE be if you couldn't power the AP just from plugging it into the router? If you aren't getting power from the ethernet port and need an injector anyway, why would it be labeled PoE? Sorry not trying to be dumb, just don't have any experience with PoE and was looking to upgrade to an ER-X+UniFi AP soon.
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Feb 2, 2016 01:09
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ufarn posted:I've been having a bunch of network problems that I thought were gone with my new Archer C7, but they seem to finally have returned. Using Google DNS for all devices does the trick for now, but is there some way to leverage this information to fix the problem? What DNS settings did your router have before you switched them to Google's DNS servers? edit: if you didn't have anything in the DNS settings on the router (they're optional for the C7) and thats what you're using as a DHCP server 't's possible whatever servers it was using from your ISP defaults are messed up. Using Google DNS isn't really a problem you need to fix honestly, it's not going to break anything for typical use. GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Feb 11, 2016 |
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Feb 11, 2016 00:35
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ufarn posted:My iOS devices and MacBook were set to 192.168.0.1, the router, and Windows was set to automatic. Seemed to have problems across all devices. It just sucks if I have to look into doing this with my PS4, Apple TV, Smart TV, etc etc etc, so I'd much rather try to find something that just works straight-up. Unfortunately, my ISP couldn't be more clueless, so I don't expect them to be able to handle the situation themselves, so I was hoping to do something on my router or ISP modem/router. Are you using DHCP on all of your devices (i.e. not entering each device's IP address manually)? If so you should only need to be updating DNS settings on your router and letting each device receive the DNS addresses automatically when they receive their IP address. Edit: so, I have the C7 too; I've got the DNS servers in the DHCP settings set to OpenDNS servers; all of my devices pick up on that automatically if they're set to receive their IP via DHCP. I don't need to manually set anything on individual devices since I've got it configured on the DHCP server (the router). Setting your Apple devices to use your router address as their DNS server was definitely causing issues because your router isn't a DNS server, it's a DHCP server that provides a DNS server address to the clients (your ISP default DNS server if you don't specify something in settings). Hope that makes sense. GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Feb 11, 2016 |
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Feb 11, 2016 02:37
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ufarn posted:iOS and OS X go with my C7 IP by default for DNS setting, so I should just leave that there, right? I'll set up the DNS on the C7 and try to roll back the manual setup on my other devices and go back to automatic/192.168.0.1 as the DNS. Default gateway is still 192.168.0.1 on the C7. If you manually input DNS servers on the DHCP settings on your router, it will tell any device that uses it for DHCP to use those servers unless you manually override it in the OS X settings. Here is what my settings look like: 
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Feb 11, 2016 22:15
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Does anyone have experience with small business-ish managed switches? I need more ports than I have, and since I'm planning to upgrade to an EdgeRouter anyway I'd like to have something that I can use to get hands-on with vlans, qos, etc. I was thinking about a TP-Link product: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KQ5FSG but don't know if it'd be easier/better to stick to an EdgeSwitch product
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Feb 13, 2016 01:24
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CrazyLittle posted:That should be fine, and you'll be able to apply the concepts of VLANs but don't expect it to directly translate over to something like Cisco IOS command-line syntax since every vendor has their own dumb quirks. Oh yeah no, I'm not expecting the syntax to convert over 100% or anything like that, I'm looking for something a bit more advanced than what I have and that I can use to apply some of what I'm studying to in the real world. If it's a managed switch and I've got the general concept of what I want to do down I'd expect it to be similar to learning how to use a new OS: same concept different execution.
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Feb 13, 2016 05:26
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Probably a dumb question but if my ISP decides to use IPv6 for my WAN address, does that mean I need to move everything in my internal network over to IPv6 addresses or can I stick with IPv4 for internal stuff?
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Feb 19, 2016 03:31
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Does anyone have experience with Ubiquiti APs and vlans? Based on this document it seems like it should be fairly straightforward (I'd be working with a single-switch configuration but want to set up separate vlans for home, guest, and and lab): https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/205146150-UniFi-VLAN-switch-configuration
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Feb 25, 2016 00:07
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CrazyLittle posted:Yes, it's that straight forward. The APs tag traffic based on SSID, and pass them along to your vlan capable switch. Make sure you have the VLANs and related port config setup on the switch and router as well. Antillie posted:I have two vlans going to my Unifi APs, one for my LAN and one for a guest SSID. Vlans 100 and 50 in my case. On the switch vlan 100 is native and vlan 50 is tagged. In the Unifi controller one SSID has the vlan box checked with "50" entered as the Vlan ID. The other SSID does not have the vlan box checked. Works fine. Although I am using Ubiquiti's 8 port Tough Switches I don't see why it wouldn't work with a Cisco Catalyst or whatever as it plays nicely with vlan tagging on my pfSense router as well. Perfect, thanks! I had a very derp moment where I couldn't for the life of me remember how vlans worked w/ APs and SSIDs. I'm prepping to upgrade my home for a fiber connection and will be picking up an ERL, AC-Lite AP and a TP-Link managed switch to handle everything.
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Feb 25, 2016 00:39
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I think this'd be the thread to post in: I'm encountering a weird issue when streaming movies / TV shows from my NAS to my home theater setup via XBMC. The PC in question is connected to the network via a USB 802.11AC adapter. Every once in a while it completely freezes up while playing a video from a share. The weird part comes in with the fix: if I do any activity at all that involves connecting to the server with my main laptop (i5 Macbook Pro), whether it's opening a (completely different) shared folder, ssh'ing in, etc., the stream buffers up and plays again on the HTPC. I guess I'm looking for where to start diagnosing the problem; my first guess is it's just a crappy wireless adapter, but once I found that connecting via my laptop fixes the problem I'm not wondering if I should be looking into server issues?
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Mar 6, 2016 22:42
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Crappy old TV posted:For a residential setup, what components will I need to make this setup work? Right now I'm looking at: Only speaking on the physical aspects, this should be a great setup, providing that your 3-flat setup doesn't have any obstructions (concrete barriers, steel beams, etc). A lot of wireless performance is going to be anecdotal based on your personal setup but if you've been getting by with an old Linksys G router the difference should* be night and day. *again, assuming no physical barriers, a 5 ghz setup won't penetrate walls and barriers as well as a 2.4ghz setup. You'll also want to put each AP on a different static channel to avoid interference from the other APs. You also will need a switch if you want anything more than a single, non-modem device plugged in.
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Mar 7, 2016 03:37
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I recently replaced my router (old: Asus RT-N16, new: Archer C7). The router/internet connection are in the back bedroom of my apartment, and everything in my living room (X360, Wii-U, PS3 & media center PC) is connected wirelessly. Would setting my old router up in bridge mode create a more reliable connection for these devices? My media center PC has problems streaming from time to time and Netflix from the 360 and PS3 can be choppy, definitely not as good as it would be with a full wired connection. As far as I know, none of them use the 5ghz range.
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Apr 7, 2016 21:43
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Inspector_666 posted:Probably not. The bridge would just be taking the spotty wireless and giving it out to the devices. True, but would the antennas from the N16 have a better chance of having a more reliable connection?
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Apr 8, 2016 03:02
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By way of the Comcast rep. breaking my outside light yesterday my downstairs neighbor told me that she was "having massive IT problems" at work and was going to be working from home going forward apparently permanently (They were out re-wiring her half of the duplex). That's...gotta be a complete bullshit answer right? I can't think of a situation where 'IT' problems would be so bad at work that working from home would improve them.
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Apr 15, 2016 17:25
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Antillie posted:I and the rest of my team, along with most of the company, were once sent home to work from home one day when someone really hosed something up on the corporate network. So it can happen. Although how it lasts for more than a day or two I have no idea. Yeah the permanent nature of it is the part I'm confused about, it seems like the smart thing to do for the business would be to address the infrastructure rather than throwing up your hands and telling employees to go home.
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Apr 16, 2016 15:34
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I ran the DSLreports test and got an F for buffer bloat, what exactly does that mean?
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Apr 20, 2016 23:16
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skipdogg posted:Are you having a problem with your internet connection? Nah I was just curious. F for buffer bloat, A for speed, seemed like a weird discrepancy. Netflix, gaming, etc. all works just fine which is why I was surprised.
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Apr 22, 2016 00:09
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I'm going to be picking up a managed 24 port switch soon and a few offerings have SFP ports on them. From what I've read, these are basically just for fiber connections if I needed to connect them to something father than CAT cables can run, right?
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May 21, 2016 20:26
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Ynglaur posted:Mostly I'm just trying to keep random kids' friends off of my home network. I don't run my wireless network in the clear, why would I run my wired network any differently? If all you're worried about is neighborhood kids connecting to your network, I think simply paying attention to who's in your house should be fine. Any <18 year old is not gonna show up to your house with a cat5 cable, or even know what a cat5 cable is. Hide your SSID, use WPA2, set up a guest network for friends and you'll be fine. I can promise you that nobody is going to show up to your house and ask to plug in to get on the internet.
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May 21, 2016 21:31
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Eletriarnation posted:Maybe. If it's SFP+ then it will run at 10Gbps, but if it's just regular SFP then all you get by running fiber (assuming the rest of the switch is gigabit) is that you can connect at longer distances than copper cable will reliably work at. Unless it specifically says "SFP+" or "10GBase-*" somewhere then it's probably the latter. So for a home use situation, they're pretty unnecessary then? Every device I'll be plugging in will be within ethernet range and I don't need a trunk to another switch in my garage or anything like that.
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May 22, 2016 19:07
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I'm up at my grandparents' cottage for the week with my family. They've got some ISP-provided combo modem/wireless router (2.4ghz 802.11b/g/n) which seems to have problems where it freezes up when everyone is inside and active on the internet (between 8-10 phones/ipads + 2 smart TVs). For some reason they also have a TP-Link 2.4ghz 802.11b/g/n access point which has been plugged into the modem/router but all of its settings are still at default (I have no idea where this thing came from). If I moved it upstairs, made a new wireless SSID and moved about half of the devices it, would it (theoretically) clear up some of the traffic problems we're running into? I understand we're still limited by the ISP bandwidth but I don't know how well the ISP device handles congestion and my grandparents don't have admin access so I can't check any settings on it.
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Jul 6, 2016 19:01
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:It depends on what activity is causing the combo router/modem to poo poo the bed under heavy load, but offloading some of the Wi-Fi access point duties is unlikely to help. Your best shot with the equipment that you have would probably be to disable the router and access point capabilities of the combo (if possible) and let it behave strictly as a modem. Offload the NAT, routing, and Wi-Fi duties to the TP-Link and hope that the configuration is more stable. It's still possible the modem will crap out under heavy load in this configuration, but it's less likely. I'm surprised you're not having dual NAT issues already with the TP-Link in default configuration. Is anything else directly plugged into the combo besides the TP-Link router? The TP link isn't a router, just an AP, so the best I could do with it is move DHCP over, which wouldn't really do much. It's the only hard-wired device and hasn't been doing anything since nobody is connected to it. And yeah I'd rather be outside, but it's pouring out and is supposed to tomorrow also, plus I live out of state and don't make it up here as much as I used to, so I'm trying to sort as much out as I can while I'm here.
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Jul 6, 2016 19:26
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