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SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!
So after skimming the OP, I think I've settled on the router I need/want, but just need some feedback to make sure I'm making a reasonable/the right decision.

Currently I have WRT600N, purchased back in March of 2008, back when this was a Draft N router, paid $250 for it. Can't believe I've had this router this long.

The reason I'm needing to upgrade my router is that the WRT600N doesn't support my 3TB HDD,

My current needs:
4+ Gigabit LAN ports
Simultaneous 2.4GHz & 5GHz (most devices I have support 5GHz, though still have a few that don't)
USB Port (must support 3TB HDD)
Time Machine backups over network (don't care if it's HFS, ext3, ext4. I know gently caress all about the benefits of different file systems, I know that ext3/4 are journaled [better for data recovery or something] and HFS is what Mac's use.)

Wants:
Bandwidth usage graph (history by month, broken down by day. Similar to DD-WRT functionality)
VPN support (need to get around to setting up a VPN for home access on the go)
Network printer support (don't care if it's wired, though would prefer wireless)
Would like to also be able to also use the 3 TB drive as a NAS for additional file storage in addition to the TM backups.

I don't necessarily care about 3rd party support (DD-WRT, Tomato, etc) but if it offers some improved functionality that the stock firmware doesn't, I'm totally fine with flashing whatever I need to.

I guess with my needs/wants this pretty much narrows it down to the ASUS RT-N66U and I don't feel that this is entirely overkill for what I'm looking for. If there is a cheaper router of similar quality I'm not opposed to that either.

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SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!
If I'm going to run two AP's, same SSID, one upstairs and one downstairs, is it better to use the same channel or two different ones? Assume there will be some overlap in coverage area.

5GHz N if it matters.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!
I asked this question a few pages back, but nobody responded so I guess I should refine it.

I'm looking for a new router, currently have eyes on either the RT-AC66u or RT-N66U but need it to support a 3TB drive external drive so I can run my time machine backups. Does anyone know if DD-WRT or Tomato or something else will support these drives? I saw that Tomato had a GPT enabled build, but it seems that it's pretty hit and miss with drive support.

For what it's worth, this is the drive I bought.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!

Abandon All Hope posted:

It was only 6GB. :smith:

Thusfar, everything has been working swimmingly. The POTD generator doesn't work for me. None of the passwords seem to work.

I'm not on Comcast though, maybe that has something to do with it? I looked around online and saw that some have custom password lists or something, I dunno.

EDIT- It just started doing it again. I tried everything like before, and the only thing that brought it back to normal was that little reset button in the rear, after 30 seconds.

I don't know wtf it means. :(

It means it's time for a new modem. Do you rent from your provider or own? Either way RMA it, or buy a new one if you own and have had it more than a year.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!
Apologies if coax cabling talk is improper in this thread.

I just moved into a new construction apartment, and the lovely contractors not only did not terminate the ends of the cable runs, but they didn't even bother to label any of them. They did tape two coax and a white RJ45 together. There are also 4 unbundled coax which I'm assuming are the 4 runs, one to each bedroom and two to downstairs.

My question is why would there be an 'extra' coax and what the hell is this white RJ45 for? It's separated out on the punch down block and there is a printed label that says "datacomm" would it be for a phone?



Fake edit: there is a white cat5e on the punch down block AND an unterminated white cat5e cable taped to the two coax that were segregated away from the others.

SeaborneClink fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Feb 27, 2013

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!

Devian666 posted:

It's a bit slack that they are unterminated but data and comms subcontractors generally are the worst trade on a building sites in my experience. I'm not sure which country you are in so some practices could differ. The white RJ45 could be to indicate incoming copper pairs. I'm used to seeing it to indicate cat 6/7 to make things easier on site.
I just find it odd that there is a cat5e (one white) that comes out of the wall with the coax bundle, I can only assume that it is intended to be plugged into the drop on the punch down above the white cable on the far right (separated from the 4 blue runs by two empty punch downs)

I'm just more frustrated that I had to terminate them myself, even though the last time I moved into a new construction building I had to do the same. At least that time all the pairs were properly labeled with tape flags both on the bundles, and written on the punch down, exactly which wall plate each block went to. So at least they were marginally helpful then.

Devian666 posted:

Two coax could just be to provide spare coax capacity in the future, or one for cable and the other could be for an aerial or satellite dish. In New Zealand most coax installations are for satellite feeds two coax are provided as good practice for when Sky TV needs the additional bandwidth in the future.
I suppose this makes sense, if there is an exterior jack somewhere on the roof level or side of the building for satellite service, and then the other presumably would be from street level for the cable company.

I went to hook up my modem today, ISP (Comcast) claims that service is active at the residence, but there is no signal on ANY of the lines. I've scheduled a service appointment for Thursday (soonest they could get someone out) but I'm not entirely optimistic. I tried to schedule service installation a month prior to move-in but they said the residence was not in their system and swore up and down that I must have the address wrong. I asked them to look up any notes from ANY of my 4 service requests in the 4 weeks prior but they were unable to find anything, even though I know for a fact that there were notes on my previous account about submitting a service eligibility request.

One tech on the phone today even said "It's odd that you have no incoming signal, we have records of previous service at that address." Which is total bullshit because I am the first tenant, and the lot this building was built on was an open field previously. So unless the city reused this address (which I'm doubtful of) since even the post office had no record of the residence up until last week.

I guess we'll just have to wait and find out what the major malfunction is on Thursday.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!
:Comcast:

Well long story short, my runs were fine. Problem was on their end. Issues with the run from demarc to the drop outside. Tech spent 2hr fiddling with poo poo outside and suddenly magically INTERNETS.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!

Rexz posted:

Hello,

I have an ageing but still decent Buffalo WHR-HP-G54

My broadband was recently upgraded to 60Mbit, and vanilla Tomato 1.28 wasn't cutting it any more: the best speeds I could get WAN-LAN were about 30 MBit.

I flashed Tomato RAF K-2.6.22 MIPSR1 and I can now get almost - but not quite - the maximum 60MBit.

I was wondering if anyone knew which Tomato fork is likely to give the best WAN-LAN throughput?

I'm fairly happy with RAF's performance, but I'd switch if something else is likely to be better.

Thanks!

It appears your router doesn't support 802.11n. It's probably time to upgrade and switch to N to ensure maximum throughput. Though this point is moot if your device(s) don't support N

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!
My WRT600n poo poo the bed tonight, and I don't think there's going to be any bringing it back now. Whats the current recommend?

The range of my 600n was perfectly sufficient, so anything similar or better would be great, need to operate the 5GHz and 2.4GHz simultaneously. Figuring about $200 would be the budget.

Need:
4+ Gbit ports
5GHz N
2.4GHz G/N

Bonus:
decent traffic shaping
DD-WRT
AC (forward compatibility, don't have any AC devices now)
Usage statistics

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!
They would be idiots to not take more money from you if you're offering. Not even Charter is this stupid, because Comcast sure isn't.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!
Why the hell would they pull fiber to every room. That is incredibly stupid, not to mention expensive. When my mom had FiOS installed at her house they punched the fiber through the exterior wall directly into the downstairs office and terminated it there inside a little protective box because those cables are incredibly fragile.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!

bushisms.txt posted:

I split lovely comcast low tier speeds with 4 other roommates, over one lovely rented router. The house is kind of long so the back two get little to no wireless. What 1 thing can I buy to replace that router/fix the situation?

You need a modem and a router. The all in ones Comcast rents are notoriously lovely. Ping Google.com and I'd be surprised if your latency was <500ms. I moved into a new place this summer with 3 other people and the first thing I asked them was if they minded if I swapped out the Comcast modem for my own. The next day everyone made a comment to the effect of "did you upgrade the speed on the Comcast package? The internet is actually usable now"

Latency is down to 30ms wired and 50-100ms wireless.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!

bushisms.txt posted:

So I was looking at the Apple Extreme stuff. Can I just grab the super expensive tower? Or do I need something else to go with that too?
Unfortunately you need a modem as well. The Comcast is a combo modem/router, this plus the router you linked will be all you need. Then you u just need to call Comcast and tell them you "need to activate a new modem" they'll activate it for you and give you instructions on how to return the leased modem. I would strongly suggest you get a receipt for the returned equipment because when they lose it, it will be a he-said/she-said slap fight.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!

bushisms.txt posted:

If that's the case, is there a cheaper option of quality than the router I linked? And would the router sit next to the modem or across the house wired? Or can it be connected wirelessly?

What havenwaters said below you is correct. Most people just let them sit next to each other and that bathe your entire living space in 2.4GHz and/or 5GHz radiation. Since you were willing to drop like $300 on a time capsule I can heartily recommend an ASUS N66U router, or AC66U, the ASUS stock firmware includes some Apple blessed approved bits'n'bytes that allow you to plug in a USB hard drive and use it as a time machine target as well (do it!)

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!

Pivo posted:

But it's only 802.11n and still nearly as expensive as an AEBS!

If you're spending that much money why not buy into ac? Apple or Asus, whatever, but at least you'll be future proof ish. What does Asus claim with their N routers, that theoretical throughput is like 900Mb? Gooooooood loving luck.

I'm going to say that I love my Time Capsule which is the AEBS with a drive inside, it truly was expensive, but it's trivial to configure and works extremely reliably, as I understand Asus's high-end products do as well. I wish I had a bit more control, like proper QoS, maybe dyndns...
It's pretty infuriating having to pick between VPN/QoS/bandwidth tracking/dyndns/etc and time machine support. Shame getting time machine to work on 3rd party firmware is just an extended exercise in alcoholism and inevitable death.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!

bushisms.txt posted:

I'm still a bit confused. So is the comcast router/modem combo rare, or are there others like it? Is that what the AC68U is? But then on Amazon it has the modem paired with it, so I'm guessing not.

I had to look up what you guys meant with the time references. I don't like apple, but have been reading they have the best networking hardware, so I'm really just trying to figure out what goes with what. I read the Apple stuff has some PC compatibility issues, so if I can get fully compatible PC hardware, I'm all for it.

So I should be grabbing the ASUS AC68U with a Surfboard SB6141? And the router is what I connect everything to? Or do I still connect everything to the modem?
Most ISP's usually offer an 'integrated' (read: complete poo poo) solution that does both jobs (being a modem, and being a router) but neither one particularly well.
For what they charge for the modem rental, formerly $8 now $10/mo as of January 1st 2015, you'd really be better off sinking the $80 to buy one of your own and coming out ahead after 8 months.

I only presumed that you had a macbook which is why I added the extra bit about Time Machine in there, if you and no one else in your house has one, there's really no point to purchasing the Apple setup. Just buy an AC66U if you don't want to buy another router for 3-5 years, or the N66U if you don't mind upgrading routers when you get a new laptop or have devices that can actually use see the benefit from using AC. Having said that now, I find it incredibly difficult to believe that downstream speeds will increase enough AND have enough market saturation in that time frame for AC to be worth it from an internet-to-home streaming perspective. My advice is buy an N66U.

ConspicuousEvil posted:

So I'm moving to a new area where I can get better speeds than the 12Mbps I was getting. If I choose to go with the 105Mbps speed, what would be a cheap modem and router option to make sure I get close to that speed (especially over wireless) in my approx 700sq ft apartment?
You'll need a DOCSIS 3.0 modem and also one that that supports 8x4 channel bonding. Again recommendation here is an SB6141.

Comcast subscribers, check their tool here to ensure you have a device that matches your service level.
Time Warner subscribers their tool here isn't quite as interactive but still useful to make sure that you're not paying for more service than your modem can handle :homebrew:

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!

Acciaccatura posted:

I'm looking into buying a new router/modem for my home network. I have a few requirements:

1) The router needs to support at least two wired connections, as well as wireless (ideally 802.11ac) for around five devices.

I can't really think of many that have less than 4 ports, so really any should work just fine.

Acciaccatura posted:

2) I'm currently on ADSL, but will likely be switching to fibre broadband soon. For this reason I'm looking at separate routers and modems with the intention of buying one router that will work with both ADSL and fibre, then changing the modem when I get fibre.



Acciaccatura posted:

3) I'm based in the UK. My current ISP is Sky Broadband, who I believe use non-standard MER authentication for their fibre connections. As I understand it, this somewhat limits my choice of router, perhaps to something that supports DD-WRT Tomato (http://charleswilkinson.co.uk/2014/10/27/sky-fibre-broadband-with-dd-wrt/ ).

Sky sounds like absolute poo poo to deal with. Poking around this site sounds like a starting point to get the information you need, use at your own risk.

The TP-LINK TD-8817 seems to be the best reviewed router on amazon.co.uk and also amazon.com in the US.

Acciaccatura posted:

4) A nice, very low-priority optional extra would be a router that enables me to add local DNS entries for my network, without the overhead of running a DNS server on a separate machine. As a software developer, I've written up a few little web applications for things like displaying lists of films/TV programs I have on Plex that I have not yet watched, displaying photographs taken from a Raspberry Pi-powered motion-detection security camera etc. These are hosted on my main desktop machine and I usually access them from there too. Being able to add local DNS entries directly to the router that would be shared for all devices on the network would be nice, so I can easily access these applications from other devices on the network.

I don't mind spending a fair amount on the router, as it will be kept when the eventual upgrade to fibre broadband happens, but I don't want to outlay too much on the ADSL modem, as it will eventually be replaced.

Any advice appreciated.
DD-WRT supports manually assigning IP addresses based on MAC address

I'd suggest the AC66U, as the AC68U isn't as well supported by DD-WRT.

Home I'm not beating a dead horse, and feel free to ignore Ahdinko :shrug:

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!
Late notice but Amazon has Refurb Motorola SurfBoard SB6121 for $45

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!
It would negotiate down to N if there was a client connected that doesn't support AC, so don't overlook that option.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!
I would rather have to buy an extra AP to cover my apartment/flat, or two extra to cover my house and be able to stream 720 from the internet than buy one AP and suffer through the horror that is the 2.4 GHz spectrum in anything you could consider "population dense" in the US.

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SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!

Don Lapre posted:

Pretty sure the asus routers support time machine.

Only the 68U and later.

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