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CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

I need some help to not waste $10/month on a lovely dsl modem rental. Right now I have a SmartRG SR360n and according to Cruzio any replacement modem should be PTM-compatible.

These are my home networking requirements and I am fine with hanging a router off the modem to meet them:
-Gigabit ethernet ports (In the past I had a router that could not push more than 600Mbps over the LAN. Not sure if that is still an issue.)
-AC wireless
-USB3 port to hang some mass storage off of (or just tell me to buy a NAS)

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CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

That 600Mbps speed was a direct test between two computers on the lan. It was 8-10 years ago on the only consumer grade gigabit router I was able to find at the time. I think it was a d-link. Can we get past this hangup now? I don't need a backplane that can handle full speed on every port at once.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

I just ordered a used Actiontec C2000A for $35. Hopefully I can make it handle any sort of dsl the ISP tries serving up even if I decide upgrade to a bonded line.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

redeyes posted:

fair warning, those Actiontecs absolutely suck. I suggest getting another router and putting that POS in bridge mode.
Thanks for the heads up. I'll buy a non-poo poo router if I can get it to sync with my ISP. I just couldn't find a modem only device that claimed to support PTM.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Is there any way to access a modem in transparent bridge mode through a TP-Link Archer C9? I'm trying to add static routes but I just break my internet because I have no clue what I'm doing.

Here is my setup:
Actiontec C2000A in tranparent bridge mode with an IP of 192.168.0.1 on the lan side.
^ Lan
V Wan
TPlink Archer C9 with a lan IP of 192.168.1.1 and a public wan ip from the ISP via dhcp.

I have no problem accessing the modem when plugged in directly as long as I set a static IP in the 192.168.0.x range.

CopperHound fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Oct 19, 2018

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

I mostly want to check sync speeds and line condition.

quote:

That's not transparent bridge mode if it's handing out a private range internally.

Perhaps I am unclear. The modem is not handing out local IP's that is why I manually have to set one to log into it.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

KKKLIP ART posted:

250mbps is still faster than a cat 3 or cat 5 would support.
Have you ever seen any cat 5 (non enhanced) cable or cat3 patch cable with 8p8c/rj45 connectors?

Of course there is a lot of cat 3 high pair count stuff out there, but most of the patch cords are either flat cable, cat3 4 conductor, or cat5e or higher.

I've been ripping out and installing network cable for the past 10 years and the only thing that was more rare was not even IBM type-2 or thick-net with the vampire taps, but cat 4 cable.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

monsterzero posted:

Does it make any difference if you disable your laptop's wifi? Maybe it's being dumb and preferring wifi despite being on GigE.

If not this, I would guess hardware accelerated Nat was disabled. I'm not familiar with that specific router, but some can't both do QoS and hardware accelerated NAT.

E: I guess if I couldn't find any hardware accelerated Nat setting, I would try seeing what kind of throughput the router gets in bridge mode.

CopperHound fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Oct 28, 2018

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

surf rock posted:

When I log on to the Netgear genie site, it shows Dynamic QoS as not being enabled. I haven't been able to find a setting yet that mentions hardware accelerated Nat.

Or is this a browser thing? I looked at my Chrome settings and "Use hardware acceleration when available" isn't toggled on.

Not a browser thing. I know this doesn't help, but this NAT boost is the setting for TP-link:


E: I have slow as poo poo upload speed, so I need QoS to maintain peace in the house.

CopperHound fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Oct 28, 2018

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Just try the cheap 30awg stuff first, because the next best option costs $3-4 per foot.

CopperHound fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Nov 26, 2018

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

SlowBloke posted:

Get plenum rated wire if you run your wires in walls
CMX, CM, CMR, and CMP are fine. CMP costs significantly more and there are very few instances where it would be required in residential construction. That said, CMP jacket material is slightly easier for me to strip than pvc jacket when terminating a rack full of patch panels.

Frank Dillinger posted:

Plenum rated is for cables that run in ducts and ventilation spaces.
Yes, but this is pretty much the only situation network cable should ever pass thru a duct:

As for other "ventalation spaces" I haven't seen open plenum spaces in residential construction, but I'm wouldn't be surprised if there is some weirdo out there with an open air return in a drop ceiling in their house.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Gay Retard posted:

I was really hoping I could just snake some Cat6 line where the coaxial was being run.
Don't beat yourself up. Any drops that aren't just direct exterior penetrations are likely to be stapled to the studs, so you would not have been able to use it as a pull string.

Gay Retard posted:

Thankfully, it's a ranch style home, so it shouldn't be too difficult to do
Crawlspace or attic? Be aware of blocking/bracing if coming down from above.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

movax posted:

Anyone have experience running armored fiber through walls?
Do you mean interlocking armor like this? If so, it is a pain in the rear end to work with.

IMO, use unarmored distribution cable and be mindful about supporting it in a way to prevent mechanical damage.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

movax posted:

I was thinking something like this: https://www.fs.com/products/17770.html

And then use a LC keystone coupler because holy poo poo I do not want to deal with any kind of fiber polishing / terminating / etc.

In terms of pulling the cable, I'll just have to deal with holes / making stuff big enough to get the fiber through with its connectors; the Cat5/Cat6 of course I'd pull bare. I've recently discovered the existence of trunk cables, which seem like they'd make pulling wire even easier when you want to get 4-8 drops somewhere. Or, am I misunderstanding the purpose of them?
Oh, I've never encountered armored zip cable before so I can't speak to personal experience. I have two concerns I want to point out:
-That cable has a minimum bend radius of 90mm, so you would need to use a faceplate that is angled to keep the back of the connector from jamming into the wall on the back side. This also means you can't just jam a bunch of spare length in the wall, you would probably have to neatly coil it in attic or crawlspace.
-With preterminated cable you need to get the idea of "pulling" out of your head. Think more "placing" and any string you tie to the end is just to help guide it. Bulk cable usually has a spec for max pulling force. With terminated cables you can't know the aramid yarn is anchored in the connector, so there is a good chance the fiber strand is taking most of the pulling force.
There are some preterminated cables that come with a pulling sock and cable gland you can pull, but I mostly see those in high strand count MPO cable.

CopperHound fucked around with this message at 08:15 on Apr 24, 2020

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Is there a such thing as a decent basic dual wan router for home use? Looking to failover point to point wireless to dsl. I don't need load balancing.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Metric is for prioritizing when there are multiple routes to a host.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Hughmoris posted:

Am I likely correct in assuming that the signal is coming off the street and in to the red box amplifier "Input" jack?


Except in there very likely case that the install is f'd, you probably have another coupler with a grounding connection somewhere before that.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

n0tqu1tesane posted:

Yeah, that too. Although personally I've run into more moisture issues from copper in buried conduit than lightning issues, and considering they're in the UK, I'd say that's more of an issue than lightning that the 8 bit guy gets in Texas.
You have to work with the assumption that anything below grade will get filled with water and use cable rated for wet environments. Even fiber should be rated for wet environments if you get freeze cycles.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Steakandchips posted:


Any recommendations/best practices?

I'm not familiar with common practices in uk, but one thing I don't see mentioned are conduits and pathways.

It'll probably be cost prohibitive to install raceways everywhere, but I would strongly suggest one from wherever your utilities come into your house to where you have your patch panels. Other places to consider (again working with American construction in mind) would be stub ups to attic (or down to crawlspace) on external walls that are getting outlets or just any wall the electrician has to open up to get the cables down.

E: Future you just came to visit me from 2032 to tell me that they should have listened to me.

CopperHound fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Jan 11, 2022

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

This isn't what you are asking for exactly, but I was using a Raspberry Pi4 to get internet off of a Comcast access point while I was waiting for an internet install at my current place. So that is an option if you happen to have one laying around already.

The signal was pretty weak, so this metal bowl helped me direct it.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Steakandchips posted:

What's a raceway?
What's a stub up?
I used the wrong term. I meant raceway as a generic term for cable pathway, but it specifically refers to surface mount channels for holding cable.
A stub up is a conduit that goes from the outlet to just into the attic (as opposed to running conduit for the entire cable run). Some walls are completely hollow so it isn't hard to run another cable down, but external walls generally have a bunch of stuff in the way. If the electrician doesn't have to tear your walls open, I would not worry too much about it.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

mcmaken6 posted:

I think this is the first time I have ever posted in this subforum. I am switching to AT&T fiber soon. They require me to use their modem/router and I have a Archer C7 AC1750 from using cable internet. Can I use the old wifi router as an extender? I would like to put it on the second floor of my house, but I won't be able to run ethernet cable to it. Google tells me it is *maybe* possible, but I don't see any of the things in the admin page for the router that I am supposed to use.

Has anyone done this before?
If it is anything like my Archer C9, you should look for an advanced setting called WDS bridge mode.


Related to ATT fiber: I thought it was silly that I had to have their residential gateway between my router and the fiber transceiver, so I set up pfatt on a little fanless qotom computer to act as my router.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

While most home users don't bother, it is generally good to keep devices that don't need open communication with each other on separate networks. All sorts of fun vulnerabilities are found every day, and cameras/iot stuff gets patched rarely if ever.

I don't know what kind of devices you are using, but roughly I would start with firewall rules like this:
LAN/Trusted network: Allow all outgoing, block all incoming
Cameras: Block all outgoing, allow incoming only from LAN and NVR if you have one. (I'm assuming these aren't internet connected cameras)
IOT: Allow outgoing to WAN only, incoming from LAN only. (I'm assuming the devices reach out to a cloud service as opposed to being directly accessed from internet)

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Hey y'all, don't be like me an assume changes made through a web interface get immediately saved to the internal flash memory. I got to spend the evening troubleshooting my network that was running fine for a month before a powercycle because I didn't hit this button.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Only thing I can think of is off-site backups.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Gothmog1065 posted:

- Smart switching, but not enterprise class (if that is even a thing).
Does smart switching mean level 3 or 4 switching instead of just level 2?
Or does it just mean one where you can manually configure ports?

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

BlankSystemDaemon posted:

Stuff that can test even up to cat6a is insanely cheap, yeah.

I think I bought the one I have now for $42 at some point, and I'd be surprised if they're that expensive now.
Lol what? You have a $42 analyzer that actually measures cable performance instead of a basic continuity/miswire check?

For most people a wiremap check is good enough, but 6a implies 10gig speeds which will not tolerate sketchy splices or wires pinched between the stud and sheetrock or whatever was happening under this defective cable that I stripped back to troubleshoot:

CopperHound fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Nov 23, 2022

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CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

MadFriarAvelyn posted:

So my apartment has ethernet wired through the walls, but whoever setup the patch panel only wired one ethernet port in each room instead of both.
As in two cables but only one is hooked up or two jacks and only one cable?

There options for both.

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