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Bouchacha posted:Can anyone provide help with this issue? I'm more confused than anything else. Have you tried using the "private" mode of the browsers? Do you have any addons? Wirehark was brought up, might be a bit too low-level, but you said you'd be willing to learn so... Once Wireshark opens up, select your interface and add in a filer for "port 80 or port 443." These two ports are most commonly used for http and https, the former being unencrypted and the latter being encrypted. (You can also start a new capture with different settings by clicking the gear looking icon in the upper left, as I've done in the picture)  Start the capture then try to load the trouble page.  Once it times out, or you get an error page, stop the capture by pressing the red square.  You probably picked up some traffic unrelated to your issue. To hide it, add a display filter of ip.addr == ###.###.###.###, putting in the destination IP of the site you're trying to access.  Once this is done, you now have a lot of information about what's going on... ...if you can understand any of it, that is. Some things to look for; are there replies from the server, what kind of packets do they send back, do you ever try to GET the site, are you getting actual data (usually shown as [TCP segment of a reassembled PDU] or is it just a bunch of overhead with [SYN]s and [ACK]s and maybe some [RST] thrown in there? Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Jun 26, 2016 |
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Jun 26, 2016 00:46
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Ludwig van Halen posted:I got an edgerouter x, and I'm getting an IPv6 address on the WAN from my modem, but I'm not getting IPv6 on my LAN. Could this be an a lack of support from my ISP or does Ubiquiti have spotty IPv6 support? I'm seeing a lot of stuff online about emerging IPv6 support in newer firmware versions, and also about how to configure IPv6 on certain ISPs. I had to reboot my Edgerouter Lite to get an IPv6 address on my LAN interface. Once I get home I'll share my ipv6 config that I've got on it. e. Oh yeah, VPN is a thing. Before you start doing more configs, make sure you're on the latest firmware (v1.9). Googling around shows that Mediacom gives a /64 to residential customers, so the config should be the same (maybe besides the interfaces you used for LAN/WAN) http://pastebin.com/0cdAqF63 You delegate a prefix to the LAN interface on the WAN interface. Once you commit the changes it ~should~ fire off a script to configure the LAN interface, apparently older firmware versions had trouble with that. I included the IPv6 firewall settings as well, but if you're getting an address on your WAN then it's probably ok. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Dec 12, 2016 |
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Dec 12, 2016 12:19
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Ludwig van Halen posted:Thanks, I think I'm getting somewhere with this. If you're not dual-stackin' IPv4 and IPv6, then we'll need to set up stateless DHCPv6 to give out DNS server addresses to clients. Some other operating systems can pick up addresses from the router-advertisement via RFC 6106, but not windows! Here's my working config of stateless-dhcpv6 http://pastebin.com/2LpQwwU3 From playing around with ipv6 on the edgerouter, I've noticed that it's really finicky. Sometimes I'm able to use ipv6 on the internet after doing a change, sometimes I'm not. I think it has to do with how it "compiles" the configuration, but it could very well just be me being me. e. The prefix-id is determining the subnet id. We are given a /64 network so we only have the one (sub)network, :0. e.2. You might not even have to include it, but I'm too afraid to touch IPv6 on this again to try it out. e.3. I've been up for 38 hours I should not be providing configuration settings. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Dec 13, 2016 |
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Dec 13, 2016 16:47
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Ludwig van Halen posted:lol, thanks, but I tried this and I ended up having to hard reset my router because it wouldn't start back up after a reboot Sorry to hear that it borked your box. 
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Dec 14, 2016 10:27
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peepsalot posted:This is not specifically a "home" networking question, but this seemed like the best place to ask anyways. Looking for a sort of portable router for a specific use-case with some unique requirements. The only thing I can think of on the top of my head that would fit the criteria is a Raspberry PI 3 with a battery pack/power bank. But as Krailor said, this seems needlessly complicated. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Dec 23, 2016 |
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Dec 23, 2016 21:42
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Nostalgia4Dogges posted:Hey all. So I have this router Asus RT-N66U You probably won't see much improvement over the router you're currently using. The Nighthawk X6 has AC wireless which the RT-N66U lacks, but you're still going to be limited by your ISP package. Your effective internet speed is determined by the slowest link. If you plan on getting a faster internet package, or want extended wireless range, it'll be cheaper to just get an access point that supports AC wireless and connect it to your router. e. The video ad for it has a very Deus Ex-y feel, but it can't compete to my favorite  router ad https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVXmn4PasA8
Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 08:08 on Jan 2, 2017 |
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Jan 2, 2017 07:58
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Nostalgia4Dogges posted:Hmm alright thanks. I do have some AC devices. I am a bit torn so not sure yet One other option would be to use the X6 as an access point. It's quite a bit more expensive than a standard AP, but if you already have it and don't feel it's worth your time to try and sell, that's an avenue you can go down.
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Jan 3, 2017 02:45
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Using the X6 as an AP would allow you to place it closer to where you use your wireless devices more often, providing better communication. Again, AC wireless isn't likely to show any improvements, but if you wanted the capability and don't feel like selling the new router then it's an option. If your wifi range is good enough for your needs, then feel free to ignore the suggestion. Your modem is fine, it can handle 300+mbps download speeds and your plan gives you 150mbps. e. Sorry for over-complicating this. I need to go to sleep. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Jan 3, 2017 |
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Jan 3, 2017 03:35
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r2tincan posted:Hey guys. I need some advice routing software wise: I know for sure that dd-wrt supports some router configurations that do what you want. Do you need this segment to be on its own network (different IP scheme)? If you're just looking to extend the existing network via wireless you could go with the Repeater Bridge setup. If they do need to be different networks Client Mode Wireless covers most of your requirements (separate network, wired devices, wireless connection to main router), but isn't able to broadcast its own wireless signal. You could plug in an access point to it though. Just don't expect amazing performance for either configuration.
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Jan 18, 2017 13:37
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codo27 posted:Another question. Some day I'm gonna need more than my 8 port switch when I get settled away in my own house. I see someone has a 24 port Cisco switch for sale locally for cheap. What do I need to know about those kinds of switches? I know it's gigabit. I know there's managed and unmanaged but I'm not sure which this is or what to look for Cisco has many different kinds of switches under its brand name. Do they list the model (series) name and number in the ad?
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May 10, 2017 00:06
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KingKapalone posted:Thanks for all that info. How do you use one of the APs with the Lite then? Does it also have AC power? The AP comes with a PoE injector you plug into an outlet. The ethernet cable from your router/switch plugs into the LAN port, and the cable from your AP plugs into the PoE port. 
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May 21, 2017 21:58
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KingKapalone posted:If I want to do this: http://kmwoley.com/blog/bypassing-needless-centurylink-wireless-router-on-gigabit-fiber/ Once you've put the C2000T into bridge mode, your setup should be code:
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May 31, 2017 03:46
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Jun 2, 2017 05:38
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We paid someone to do that. e. Anyways, I'm trying to find a switch that is powered via PoE and can also pass-through PoE to a connected device (an AP). From what I've been able to find the Edgerouter Max is the only device that really fits the criteria, even though it's a router. I figure if I set all the ports as switchports, it should just act as an expensive 5 port managed gigabit switch, right? Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Jun 2, 2017 |
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Jun 2, 2017 05:43
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Fauxtool posted:geeksquad? I'm not really sure where we found him. It was back in 2003, and my parents kept us kids away from him because he "was kind of strange" e. Here's how it looks now after I took a networking class in community college. 
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Jun 2, 2017 05:57
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CrazyLittle posted:Ubiquiti UniFi US-8 https://www.ubnt.com/unifi-switching/unifi-switch-8/ Thanks! Suddenly I realize this project is going to be a lot more expensive than I thought it would be. Fauxtool posted:I bet he is way into bitcoin. I wouldn't doubt it.
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Jun 2, 2017 06:45
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KKKLIP ART posted:If I tell my router to use 8.8.8.8/8.8.4.4 as its DNS server, will my connected devices be smart enough to defer to that as opposed to my ISPs DNS stuff? It depends on your DHCP settings. If your router is telling client devices to use the ISP's DNS server(s), the client will make DNS requests to the ISP's server(s) - regardless of what DNS server your router uses. If your router is telling client devices to use 8.8.8.8/8.8.4.4 as the DNS servers, the client will make DNS requests to those servers - again, regardless of what DNS server your router uses. If your router is telling client devices to use itself as the DNS server, the client will make DNS requests to the router, then the router will relay the requests to the server(s) you've configured it to use (8.8.8.8/8.8.4.4). (Assuming your router has the ability to act as a DNS relay)
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Jun 4, 2017 04:42
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KKKLIP ART posted:I've got an Archer C7, so it just has a checkbox that says "Use these DNS servers" and the tooltips just say that if left blank, it will try to pull them from the ISP, so I'm not sure if it relying on the client's settings or if it is over-riding that. Your assumption is correct. The configuration matches the last scenario I listed. Your macbook knows to use the router as a DNS server because of the DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) information it received when asking for an IP address. That configuration information sent out can be changed under `Advanced > Network > DHCP Settings` should you need to modify it, but I believe it's set up how you want it as is.
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Jun 5, 2017 06:04
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Lamquin posted:I just want to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong before I pull the trigger on this and would appreciate opinions on it - I've had a router given for free by the ISP the last 4-5 years (100mbit & VoIP telephone). It's been at best adequate, but it's frankly time for an upgrade with more tablets, phones and lately a chromecast being added to the WiFi making the thing buckle. Setting up the Edgerouter is pretty easy. There's a guide to get you going here - it takes you through connecting to the device and running a wizard to get your network set up. You can get it all set up before swapping out your old router, so you can stay connected to the internet if you need help. The access point is also pretty easy as well, the only hitch is that it's not managed by the router - you have to use the Unifi Controller software on a different device to get it set up. The controller sets the wireless name and network that the access point will use, and allows you to set the IP address of the AP once it's connected to the controller. You don't need to have the controller running for the AP to work once it's all set up.
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Jun 25, 2017 18:33
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EL BROMANCE posted:I have a device that you connect your phone to, then tell it the wifi details for your setup and it in turn connects to the router. I'm having issues with it at this stage and am wondering if it's an IP thing. I've seen it turn up very briefly in the DHCP list but then disappear again. Your router is saying that it's an invalid IP address because you're trying to reserve an address that's out of the range of the network. Your router provides IP address from (I assume) 192.168.1.2 to 192.168.1.254. The internal IP address your device has, 192.168.10.1, could be for communications between the device and your phone, not between the device and your router. It should (from what I can tell) be just fine getting an IP address from your router as is. What device is it specifically?
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Jun 25, 2017 22:21
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EL BROMANCE posted:It's a Quirky Link hub, it's old and rubbish and not supported anymore so I'm most likely just going to trash it and get a new Wink hub. It was in the house when we moved in, and was hoping it might control some of the lights here (although I've not seen any compatible bulbs yet) as they're on pull cords that have a habit of breaking. I've sunk too much time into it already to be honest, and I'm just going to put it down to good old fashioned unexplainable incompatibility. Thanks! Looking around, it seems as though you have to reset it to factory default if you need to change the WiFi settings. The support page (which doesn't allow text highlighting!!!) says to just power cycle the device to change the settings. I'd give that a shot if you're feeling up to it. CubanMissile posted:I noticed the guy in the ER-X video changed his DNS to Google's. Is this generally considered better practice than using your ISP's DNS? Also when configuring devices, should I set their DNS to the router's IP or to the ISP/Google addresses? Your ISP's server might be slow. They might redirect your to advertisements. They might block websites due to their content. They might go down for a while. They might log what sites you're requesting and sell that information. Or they might not, who knows. Google's DNS servers have really good up time and the IP addresses are easy to remember. There are plenty other publicly available DNS servers as well, if you don't like using Google. I configure my devices to go to the router for DNS. The router will do the lookup and cache the result for a while, so if any other device wants to lookup the same domain the router can instantly provide it instead of doing another lookup.
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Jun 25, 2017 23:34
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IOwnCalculus posted:I mean, there's a zero percent chance that Google's DNS is not doing that for Google's own benefit. But all the same I'd rather use theirs which actually returns in-spec responses, instead of Cox's DNS servers that kick back ad pages when a query fails. Yeah, true enough. I've been trying to roll my own servers (email has been an experience), I suppose getting a DNS server up would be fun.
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Jun 26, 2017 02:19
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tangy yet delightful posted:
1. Your current router is probably fine. Even if you bought a Ubiquiti router you'd still need to buy a switch for your future needs, plus you'll have to buy an additional access point. What internet speed are you paying for from your ISP? Is there some feature you're in need of that your current router doesn't provide? 2. In this thread the Unifi APs are usually recommended . The lite is cheaper than the pro and will probably suit your needs just fine. They both come with a PoE injector, so you don't need equipment that can provide PoE - just an empty outlet and an additional ethernet cable. 3. For your Archer C9, no. Just don't plug it into the internet port. 4. Yes. Have the SSID and password be the same on both pieces of equipment and your wireless devices will seamlessly swap from one to the other. 5. The AP can be connected to a switch and work, yes. quote:I've read the OP but don't really know if it's better go get a more expensive router with more ports or get a smaller router and a switch. It depends on your network requirements. If all you need is for devices to talk to each other and get to the internet, then the small router + switch is the way to go. From your network diagram I'd assume you're in this camp. For more advanced configurations (multiple physical LANs/multiple physical WAN {read:internet} connections), you'll want a router with multiple ports AND switches. Most home/consumer routers like your Archer C9 have an integrated switch (the ethernet 1-4 ports), so they fall under "smaller router + switch" with the additional benefit of an integrated wireless access point. quote:I'm also not sure if it's better to get the Edgerouter Lite PoE which I think would allow me to power both APs while the cheaper routers have only one PoE, am I looking at the specs right? Should I not worry about PoE and just plug the APs into a nearby wall outlet/surge bar? Equipment that provides PoE is going to be more expensive than equipment that does not. The more power the equipment provides, the more expensive it will be. The Unifi APs come with PoE injectors, so you don't need to have equipment that provides PoE. You could have the injector plugged in an outlet close to your router/switch and run a long cable if there isn't an outlet where you want to place your AP. e. Blah blah buy a Unifi AP AC Lite and a cheap gigabit switch. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 10:12 on Aug 3, 2017 |
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Aug 3, 2017 09:16
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IOwnCalculus posted:Take the Netgear somewhere else in the house with a laptop and do this: Before you do this, you'll want to record what IPv4 network your TPLink router has you on. (Assuming Windows) Pull up the command prompt (winkey+r and input 'cmd') and issue the command 'ipconfig'. Write down the IPv4 Address and Subnet Mask. You'll want to use a slightly different IPv4 address for your Netgear router, so if your computer's address was 192.168.1.137, you'll put in 192.168.1.251 for the router. This puts it on the same network (192.168.1.xxx) without conflicting with other devices (your computer) Once you get into the Netgear, you can disable the DHCP server and set the IPv4 address under Advanced > Setup > LAN setup.
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Oct 15, 2017 15:40
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Holy Haze posted:I'm running a Cisco RV325 as the primary router at my house. What would be the best logical way to "separate" my floors of my house while still allowing communication between the two? My room-mates don't appreciate some of the outages I've caused by testing out different setups. VLANs would be the way to go. You enable them under Port Management > VLAN Membership, assign whatever ports are used by a floor to a VLAN, and make sure the ports are untagged and that Inter VLAN Routing is checked or enabled or w/e. You then will have to change the DHCP settings on the router to give out addresses to these VLANs. That's done under DHCP > DHCP Setup. Use a different subnet for each VLAN.
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Nov 19, 2017 21:26
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The C1900 is sold in the US (and I think Canada?) only. The more powerful wireless transmission is compliant to US regulations, but not those in the EU. e. As to why it's cheaper, it could be that it's just not as popular as the c5/7/9 line. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Nov 23, 2017 |
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Nov 23, 2017 18:52
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Passthrough means that it has an electrical socket you can plug things into, so that you don't lose the one you've plugged the powerline adapter into. You'll never get the maximum bandwidth that a wireless access point can theoretically offer. Definitely hard wire your media station to your router. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Dec 30, 2017 |
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Dec 30, 2017 20:08
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Do not connect your Hitron Router to your switch using multiple connections. Just use one cable. A VPN like you describe is really only effective from securing & hiding the content of your internet traffic from your ISP. If you were say, uploading a file to a website, the VPN connection would secure the data until it hit NordVPN's network, where it would then just go out to the internet with the same protection as though you didn't have a VPN. Your ISP wouldn't know what you did, and your identity would be somewhat hidden by the VPN, but your data could still be read by anyone on the way from Nord's server's to the destination website. Post the model of the Hitron, we'll be able to figure out what features it supports. e. 
Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jan 25, 2019 |
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Jan 25, 2019 22:32
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After looking up the specs of your router, it doesn't look like you'd be able to get it applied at the router. The VPN setup page just has pass-through configurations, no actual way for the router to connect to a VPN. Client VPN services like NordVPN typically allow installation on multiple devices (I think nord allows 6 devices), so you could install it on your roommates' computers if it becomes an issue. You also probably don't want everything going through the VPN, as it could cause additional latency for games and the router probably would choke trying to encrypt/decrypt everything.
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Jan 26, 2019 05:42
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ScooterMcTiny posted:Is the actual process to go through this entire setup again, but now it's hosted on the cloud key vs. the Unifi desktop controller? You can migrate your UniFi settings from one controller to another. On your Desktop controller, go to Settings > Controller > Controller Hostname/IP and put in your cloud key IP address (this is assuming you've already gotten the cloud key kind of set up already) and check the "Override Inform Host..." box under that. Apply the changes - your devices will show up as offline now because they're trying to connect to the new controller IP now. You then need to export the config that you have on your desktop controller (Settings > Maintenance > Backup > Download Backup) and import it to your Cloud Key (Settings > Maintenance > Restore, or if you haven't set up the controller yet you can choose to Recover from the initial setup). This will also carry over all the devices that you've previously adopted.
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Apr 2, 2019 03:06
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The configuration file is located at /config/config.boot. You can paste in the following firewall rules at the start of the config file (make a backup first), then reboot. https://pastebin.com/CWQ5VYjx You'll then want to assign the firewall rules to the interfaces you've configured.
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Apr 11, 2019 01:54
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Protocol7 posted:What else could I be missing? What do the routes look like on your routers?
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May 2, 2019 19:48
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My parents recently moved to a new house and I came by to help them unpack and do other house-moving activities. I figured I'd take a look at the network setup that the previous owners were using. A hub. So now I'm forming a plan to get this network up to date. Figure I'd share it here to see if anyone had any suggestions. - Comcast/xfinity approved cable modem so they can return the leased one. They're currently subscribed to a 150m plan but there are gigabit plans available for an additional 40$/month, so to "future-proof" them I'm planning on going for the Netgear Nighthawk (CM1150V) - yes they're using a landline. - Router. I'm considering the USG because it's something I'm familiar with (set up & managed a bunch at work, have some UniFi equipment at my apartment) and I'll be able to access the config remotely should something need to be changed. I've got the controller installed on a VPS for my apartment network, so I'll just create another site and add my parent's network to this. - 16 port gigabit switch. It'd be fun to go UniFi for more manageability, but it's hard to justify the 100%+ price increase over an unmanaged switch that will perform just as well for the type of activity my parents & brother will be doing on the LAN. Currently looking at this TP-Link 16 port unmanaged switch, used it at their old house and had no complaints. My parents have already set up their Orbi mesh WiFi system and they're happy with the range so I won't mess with that (for now).
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May 9, 2019 06:00
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SlowBloke posted:If you are going to do a mixed brand/model network, why going for a usg rather than use the integrated orbi routing features? I have a usg at home and i'm struggling to see anything that a orbi setup couldn't do in a home user enviroment(as a matter of fact i think filtering might be better on orbi). That's a good point. I didn't realize that the Orbi was a router (figured it was a souped-up AP), so we'll skip the USG for now.
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May 10, 2019 16:35
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Schadenboner posted:Three 101 questions: 1. I'd drop down to the AP-AC-Lite or Pro, but otherwise looks good if you want to be completely in the UniFi ecosystem (yes the USG does DHCP). If you don't think you'll be needing the features of a Managed switch (VLANS, link aggregation, dhcp snooping, usage statistics per-port), you could drop down to a cheaper unmanaged switch. 2. The cloud key is a dedicated device to run the UniFi Controller software, which is required to configure and manage the UniFi devices. You can run the controller software on other devices though, like your PC or a small linux VM (I have mine hosted on a VPS in ~the cloud~). The value in the dedicated device is that even if you really mess up all your computers and servers, the UniFi controller won't be affected since it's on a device you don't use for anything other than managing the network. 3. This really comes down to how comfortable you are at configuring thing through a command-line interface, how knowledgeable you are at getting networks configured, and if you don't see the need of having your router and switch be separate devices. I find the UniFi devices to be a lot more consumer friendly than the EdgeRouter series, but the EdgeRouters aren't limited by the functions of a controller. e. Do you have a budget that you're trying to hit? What's your current setup, and why are you looking to change? Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 17:56 on May 13, 2019 |
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May 13, 2019 17:54
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The Unifi Dream Machine (and other home wireless routers) runs into the issue that the WiFi is integrated to the router, so you won't always be able to place it where the WiFi would reach maximum coverage. Is there a feature of the UniFi devices that you specifically need? A typical home router (Archer C9) will provide the same number of switch ports that the UDM provides, you can add on a 30$ unmanaged 8-port gigabit switch to it if you need more ports, and you can buy a AP-AC-Lite later if the WiFi coverage isn't good enough where it sits.
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May 13, 2019 19:35
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Schadenboner posted:I spent a short period of time working for Milwaukee’s Literal Worst MSP and the only good thing to come out of it was I got to see a lot of Unifi stuff and was impressed. I want to “step up our game” (as the kids say these days) w/r/t our network at home and it seems like as good an option as any? Fair enough! Not going to tell you to give up on your dreams, just wanted to make sure you weren't getting into something you really didn't need. There's no ETA for when the UDM is getting out of early access, and the enhanced hardware that it provides is unlikely to be fully utilized by your 3-user environment, so I'd say go for the USG + US-8-60W + AP-AC-Lite. (If you get the newest raspberry PIs, you can buy PoE HATs and power them directly from the switch!) e. You could even run the UniFi controller off one of the PIs Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 20:51 on May 13, 2019 |
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May 13, 2019 20:06
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icantfindaname posted:My parents bought an upgraded cable package (or something. have to investigate further) and Spectrum sent them a new internet modem but also a wifi router, when before they had not used a router sent from the cable company but a Linksys EA4500 I set up a few years ago. The router's model number is 2AC2V1K. Is this a better router than the old one? Also is this being rented from the company at an extra charge or does that work the same as the modem/cable box? I've never used a router provided by the ISP so I don't know My search isn't pulling up any router with that number - that's not the serial number, right? At least in my area, Spectrum charges a monthly fee for the provided WiFi router. It was an option I had to opt-in for while signing up online.
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May 14, 2019 06:02
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icantfindaname posted:Whoops, it's RAC2V1K, sorry From what I've been able to find, the RAC2V1K is quite a bit better than the EA4500 - most importantly, the ISP provided router is capable of a more modern WiFi communication (802.11ac), which should provide faster speeds (assuming WiFi was a bottleneck previously). I'd check the bill or call in to support to see if they're being charged for the router anyways. Don't worry, I didn't actually opt-in for their equipment 
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May 14, 2019 06:43
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bolind posted:Any obvious reasons why a freshly factory reset and fully firmware upgraded Edgerouter X would only yield ~450 megabit on a gigabit fiber connection? Looked a bit into hardware NAT offload, no idea whether that’s enabled, will check Monday when I’m back in the office. The offload is probably your issue. You can check the hardware offload status by running this command code:code:
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May 16, 2019 19:12
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