I got a Asus RT-N16 that I want to use with a U-Verse 2wire router/modem/wifi combo device, since it didn't support gigabit ethernet or wireless n. I wasn't sure which DHCP server I should be using. Do I disable DHCP on the RT-N16 and just use it as more of a switch, with the 2wire handling DHCP? Or disable DHCP on the 2wire, enable it on the RT-N16, give the RT-N16 a static IP and DMZ it, and then have all my devices connect use the RT-N16, like the crappy 2wire one isn't even there anymore. Or am I completely off here and there is something else I should be doing?
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# ¿ Dec 9, 2012 22:01 |
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 18:32 |
Thanks for the info! That is a sweeet lookin' setup you got there.
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# ¿ Dec 10, 2012 00:16 |
You guys and your fancy wiring. I've had a ethernet cable strung up like a tightrope across the main room of my apartment for the past couple weeks. I couldn't run it along the ground since the dog kept tripping over it. I finally replaced it with a longer cable to run along the walls, but I got so used to ducking under it that it was quite unnerving walking across the room for the first day after that. Good thing I don't have a girlfriend or wife to yell at me about unsightly network cables
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# ¿ Dec 11, 2012 01:04 |
I'm at my friends place and he mentioned that he's getting some weird errors when he goes to google.com sometimes. I actually encountered one of these errors when I was over there with my own computer. What could cause an SSL certificate error?
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# ¿ Jan 11, 2015 08:31 |
CrushedWill posted:I gave up trying to replace their routing with something better, so I turned their wi-fi off and used a better router configured as an access point to get the protocols and frequencies I wanted. I did the same thing, but that U-Verse modem is still a giant piece of poo poo. I recently switched to Comcast (ugh, I know) but at least I got to pick my own modem and the speeds are way faster than the fastest U-Verse could offer me (45MBps vs. 120MBps)
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# ¿ Jan 13, 2015 01:43 |
I setup Tomato on my ASUS RT-N16 years ago and just went to update it and realized the original project is no longer maintained. Seems there are some forks. What is everybody using these day?
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# ¿ Dec 13, 2015 21:19 |
Prescription Combs posted:If you can spring for it, a Ubiquity Edgerouter Lite or X and then get their UAP-AC-LITE for WiFis. That gear looks pretty sweet but I'm waaaay over on my "spending money on poo poo I don't really need" budget with the purchase of bigger drives for my NAS. Surely the RT-N16 is still viable?
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2015 00:22 |
GobiasIndustries posted:The RT-N16 doesn't support 5ghz. In my situation (highly saturated 2.4ghz in my area) just having a 5ghz network cleared up just about all of my bandwidth issues with my wireless devices. What are you having issues with? Prescription Combs posted:Might try seeing if there's a recent build of DD-WRT for it. Is the router having issues of sorts? Nope not having any issues, just wanted to make sure I'm running up to date software so I don't have a security vulnerability or something.
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2015 03:43 |
My Asus RT-N16 has been great for years but today it turned itself off twice and wouldn't stay on for more than a few minutes. Now it seems like it's dead entirely, won't power on at all. I need 4 gigabit ports and wireless. I also had VPN setup through Tomato USB so I can connect to my network remotely. What's a good replacement for it?
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# ¿ Feb 6, 2017 01:45 |
fletcher posted:My Asus RT-N16 has been great for years but today it turned itself off twice and wouldn't stay on for more than a few minutes. Now it seems like it's dead entirely, won't power on at all. Well I had to get something last night so I went to Best Buy and bought whatever gigabit wireless router off the shelf, the Asus RT-AC1900P. What should I be looking at for a more permanent solution? I'm willing to budget a couple hundred for some decent gear.
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# ¿ Feb 7, 2017 01:05 |
Flatscan posted:The correct positioning is obviously in his kitchen, next to the microwave. I've got my wireless router sitting on top of a pretty good sized floor standing speaker. Do the magnets impact the wifi much? My apartment is pretty small so I haven't had any issues, just curious more than anything.
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# ¿ Feb 10, 2017 19:49 |
Looking to upgrade some old equipment, not sure which route to go. Current setup is a ISP provided modem/router/wifi in a detached office/garage. There's a Linksys PLS400 to do ethernet over power to the main house, which then has a Linksys WAP54G connected to it. Even though the two structures are very close to each other, it's a log cabin with large logs and the wifi doesn't seem to penetrate it at all. That's why we went with the ethernet over power adapters. Any recommendations for what to look at to upgrade this setup? fletcher fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Jun 14, 2019 |
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# ¿ Jun 14, 2019 18:07 |
Thanks Ants posted:Is there a specific problem you're trying to solve? Speed, reliability etc? Reliability is probably the main one. For whatever reason the WAP54G decided to reset itself to factory defaults over the winter. So mainly looking to replace that I think. A mesh setup between the two structures would be nice as well, so they at least share the same SSID.
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# ¿ Jun 14, 2019 19:51 |
There was a construction crew laying fiber on my cross street this morning. I asked them about it and they said it was for Crown Castle Fiber. I currently have Xfinity gigabit but I would love to have a symmetrical gigabit option available. If they are laying fiber this close does that mean it could happen at some point? Who would the ISP be?
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# ¿ Oct 11, 2019 02:07 |
I setup a new hosted zone in Route53 and I wanted to test it out before actually updating the nameservers of the domain. Can I just update the DNS of my machine to use the IP address of ns-448.awsdns-56.com (one of the NS for the new hosted zone) to do that?
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# ¿ Apr 16, 2020 23:40 |
Does the Unifi Dream Machine run the same controller software as the Cloud Key Gen2? I got a UDM for my parents house, just wanted to confirm before I head over there this weekend to set it up. My dad got a Google Nest Wifi but it doesn't support ethernet backhaul, so I was going to replace that with the UDM and a couple FlexHD's to get the whole house covered.
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# ¿ May 15, 2020 21:41 |
SlowBloke posted:There is nothing stopping you from adding extra ap or switches to a udm, as long as the cumulative unifi device number is under 15. I would personally suggest to go udm rather than going usg today. I setup the UDM and two FlexHD's at my parents house over the weekend. Works great and we've got excellent coverage throughout the whole house. Only catch was I had to add "192.168.1.1 setup.unifi.com" (I think that was it) to the Windows hosts file in order to get through an SSL cert error in Chrome when trying to create a new UI.com account during the initial setup of the UDM. Not sure what the deal was with that. In order to get the page to load at all I had to add the exception for the SSL cert to load http://192.168.1.1 which seemed to redirect to that setup.unifi.com URL. Then I had to modify the hosts file to get further. I don't remember having to do that when I setup the USG, Cloud Key, etc at my place.
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# ¿ May 18, 2020 20:57 |
PSWII60 posted:Trying to find something to replace my Comcast modem router combo and having a hell of a time doing so. I need a modem that that can do 1,000 Mbps and supports VoIP. All the ones I found have either had a router built in (which I don't need as I have a router that works wonderfully), or this Netgear model which is quite a bit more than I need so I'm reluctant to drop that much on the modem. Anyone know of any that they would suggest? I just picked up the renewed version of the Netgear CM1150V and saved $60 to install at my parents house last weekend. Works great! I've been using a CM1000 for awhile (no need for voice), it has been rock solid for my gigabit connection.
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# ¿ May 22, 2020 04:00 |
I don't really have a need for WiFi 6 at the moment, but when would we expect Ubiquiti to have some WiFi 6 offerings in the UAP line of products?
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# ¿ Jun 5, 2020 20:51 |
KS posted:Deploying Wifi 6 APs at work and OFDMA is the biggest advancement to wifi in at least a decade. Problem is you really need either 100% wifi 6 devices, which will take years for most houses with IOT devices, or dual/tri-radio APs to segregate AX from legacy clients, which is cost prohibitive for home. I had never heard of OFDMA but reading about it was very interesting
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# ¿ Jun 6, 2020 04:44 |
Where do you have the Nighthawk R7000 positioned? Do you have ethernet from the basement modem to the ground floor?
fletcher fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Jun 13, 2020 |
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# ¿ Jun 13, 2020 04:36 |
Dick Nipples posted:Honestly, if you're wanting to hard-wire some stuff, it could be worth it to get something like the Orbi with the dedicated wireless backhaul since you have Gigabit. Unfortunately, the current Nest WiFi's do not support wired backhaul, which was the exact reason I sold a set recently. Just wasn't a good fit for the layout of my parents house, ended up going with a Ubiquiti UDM & two FlexHD's instead. Nice little devices though, sounded really easy to setup from my Dad's feedback.
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# ¿ Jun 13, 2020 05:46 |
Biowarfare posted:I am curious if they will enforce your use of their modem (because it phones home, runs their firmware, and is remote-controlled, wifi password set remotely etc too) and surcharge you heavily if you rent it and toss it in the closet. I purchased my own modem (Netgear CM1000) and it also phones home and Comcast manages the firmware/config on it. Better than having my wifi rented out by them but still not great.
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# ¿ Jul 7, 2020 22:42 |
skipdogg posted:Honestly it's not worth the extra cost really. If you already have the nanostations just use them. I can count on 1 hand the number of services capable of saturating a 1 gig link. In fact I downgraded to a 500mbit link, and the only time I ever notice a difference is downloading an Xbox game. When you are waiting to queue up with the bros in Warzone and there's a 100GB update, that's when I'm glad I have gigabit Steam, Battle.net, Origin, etc usually do a decent job of saturating my connection
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2020 20:42 |
I noticed my internet will consistently cut out between 1:20AM and 1:25AM every night lately. I've narrowed it down to the cable modem based on the uptime it reports, a Netgear CM1000. I'm going to start keeping an eye on the firmware version, but I doubt Comcast is actually pushing changes that frequently. Googling around I see others describing a similar issue, but couldn't find any concrete information on how to fix it. Any ideas?
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# ¿ Jul 31, 2020 09:47 |
skipdogg posted:Check the modem event log ADVANCED > Administration > Event Log in the UI Thanks! Here's what I see there: Not sure what to make of it
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# ¿ Jul 31, 2020 19:47 |
Thanks Ants posted:The modem or the cable network is hosed. Rule the modem out by asking someone living nearby if their service also drops. Replaced the Netgear CM1000 with an Arris SB8200 and it seemed to resolve the issue, no 1:20AM 5 minute outage for the last two nights! Hopefully I can just RMA this Netgear and then sell the replacement they give me.
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2020 23:35 |
I have a USG, a few FlexHD APs, and a few Unifi switches. I want to configure it so that wireless clients are not able to access any of the wired clients. I have one printer that is wireless that I would like to be able to access from both wired and wireless clients. How should I go about setting this up?
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# ¿ Aug 29, 2020 19:32 |
Sniep posted:3000ft aerial & 500ft underground trenched Holy gently caress I wish I had options like this in my location!
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# ¿ Oct 30, 2020 07:57 |
icantfindaname posted:I’m getting an issue where my internet over both powerline and wifi will cut out periodically, for a short time usually, but reepating this for a long period now. The network will still be connected but the internet stops working. It’s hard to troubleshoot because the problem usually resolves within like 30 seconds or so, but it’s very irritating. What would normally be the cause of something like this? The modem, the router, or the wifi/powerline connection? I would probably start with something hard wired to your router and setup some monitoring or PingPlotter or something and see if you see the issue there as well at the same time. Could also reveal a pattern that helps reveal the root cause. At least then you isolate it to your modem & router. Next step would probably be barebacking it to the modem with the same monitoring and see if you hit the issue there as well If you don't see it after those tests then start focusing more on the other components specifically
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# ¿ Oct 31, 2020 01:33 |
Gyshall posted:I'm about to buy gear for my home, I have a unifi unit now for my 1600 sq ft place and it's great. After reading some posts like the above, how would you goons buy? I was looking at a dream machine plus two more ap units and a poe switch. I've got 8 pieces of Unifi gear in my setup and have had zero issues. Granted I've only been using it less than a year. I setup my parents house with a dream machine and two Flex HD and it has been great as well. Seems like certain products of theirs had a rough go with first revisions and stuff but overall it seems like pretty good stuff to me. I would be curious to see what their support has to say for Fallom's issue - Fallom can you keep us posted?
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# ¿ Nov 6, 2020 03:19 |
Blankspot posted:Hi. I am very dumb when it comes to home networks. Is there a power connection shared between the two structures? If so, a powerline adapter may be a good fit: https://www.amazon.com/Powerline-Computer-Network-Adapters/b/ref=dp_bc_aui_C_5?ie=UTF8&node=1194444 If you are OK with an unburied cable, I would think an exposed cable over 150ft should be fine for awhile...not certain on that though
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# ¿ Nov 12, 2020 22:34 |
DaveSauce posted:Interesting, for some reason I thought that would cause all sorts of issues to have multiple identical networks overlapping, which is why I thought "mesh" was defined differently and required special hardware. I had two of the Asus RT-AC1900P routers using their AiMesh feature but it did not seem to work very well. I am not sure whether it was just insufficient Wifi coverage or what, but I was not able to walk around the house while on a VOIP call (WhatsApp, AT&T Wifi Calling, etc) without it dropping the call when I transferred to a new AP. Extra annoying because cell service is poo poo at my place. I ditched the Asus gear and went full Unifi with 4 of the FlexHD access points, all hard wired. The transition between APs is seamless for me now with my Samsung S8 phone, without having to mess with any settings. You only define a single wireless network and it uses all of the APs you have connected for that wireless network. Also keep in mind, I think all the Unifi APs come with a PoE injector included. Makes it easier if you want to defer getting the PoE switch for now. I do have a couple devices that are right in the middle of two APs, so they tend to bounce between them. I tried messing with the transmission power but I think ideally I need to relocate some of the APs. They were in locations of convenience based on where the ethernet jacks were around the house, and could be more optimal if I added a couple drops.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2020 20:54 |
MarcusSA posted:So I know this thread is more dedicated to home networking stuff but I’m having weird networking issue and I’m kinda lost on where to ask the question. Sounds like you are in the right thread!
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# ¿ Dec 4, 2020 00:42 |
What's the opinion on MoCA adapters? I was hoping to get a few ethernet ports and access points to some hard to reach corners of the house without too much hassle. I got a pair of the Actiontec ECB7250 MoCA adapters to try it out and they seemed to work pretty well, I was able to max out my gigabit connection no problem. Before I buy another pair I wanted to see what the thread thought of these things. So far I only have the office & family room MoCA adapters plugged in. I noticed that the Arris SB8200 cable modem shows up as a device on my network now, appearing as being connected to the port where the office MoCA adapter is plugged in, but not with the MAC that is listed on the label of the modem. It did not seem to grab an IP address. What's that all about? I also see one of the Comcast boxes (the little mini one) which appears on the network as well after adding the MoCA adapters, and it has an IP address assigned. It seems like the speeds are fine but these devices hopping on the network don't seem really ideal to me. I can always just block them but is there something else I should be doing here? fletcher fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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# ¿ Dec 13, 2020 06:32 |
fletcher posted:What's the opinion on MoCA adapters? I was hoping to get a few ethernet ports and access points to some hard to reach corners of the house without too much hassle. I got a pair of the Actiontec ECB7250 MoCA adapters to try it out and they seemed to work pretty well, I was able to max out my gigabit connection no problem. Before I buy another pair I wanted to see what the thread thought of these things. Anybody gonna dissuade me from my plan? Are these MoCA adapters just not very commonly used?
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2020 04:11 |
Zorak of Michigan posted:I use Actiontec MoCa adapters but I've never seen other devices on my network like that. Maybe it's something built in to newer cable boxes? There's nothing about your plan that jumps out at me as problematic. Ok good to hear, thanks! withoutclass posted:I think comcast and other satellite boxes, like TiVo, also use MoCA to communicate back to the primary box. I am not too sure whether other devices that support MoCA on the same network would cause a problem but since you seem to have good speed it's probably not an issue. One thing you probably want to do since I didn't see you mention it is grab a MoCA filter for the coax line coming in to your home. This will keep your MoCA network from leaking out/being exposed. Thanks! Yeah I was reading about that and made sure to double check my communications box to confirm that it did in fact have a POEGB-1GCW in place on the service line before going into the 8-way splitter I'm gonna block these comcast boxes on the network and see if the DVR functionality still works as normal
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2020 04:47 |
H110Hawk posted:You probably need to split and filter your arris to 8way to prevent your home network from being your neighbors. Basically plug the main wire from the street straight into the arris, then the rest into the 8way. Otherwise 2way before the 8way and pray you have enough signal left. Put a moca filter between the 2way and 8way. I thought the POE MoCA filter that I already have between the service line and the 8 way would prevent my home network from being accessible by neighbors?
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2020 07:43 |
H110Hawk posted:This may be, I am not experienced with any of the equipment you're futzing with and just saw input side of the surfboard going to the same box as your MoCA network. If you see how you're filtering it in the manuals or whatever carry on! I'm not experienced with it either I think I'm gonna put MoCA filters in front of the modem and cable boxes so they are isolated away from my MoCA network, just to be safe
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# ¿ Dec 17, 2020 06:31 |
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 18:32 |
Renegret posted:That's a 300mbps router. You need a new router. Looks like the wired ports are only 100 Mbps as well, so wired would be even worse performance than wireless with that router
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# ¿ Dec 18, 2020 23:23 |