The Home Networking Megathread - Yes the OP is out of date

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Serious Hardware/Software Crap > The Home Networking Megathread - Yes the OP is out of date

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Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

At least rackmount ones can be tied down

# ¿ Jan 12, 2018 20:22

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# ¿ Apr 19, 2024 16:09

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32614175865.html ?

Edit: Or https://m.ebay.com/itm/DECORA-KEYSTONE-JACK-1-2-3-4-6-PORT-MODULAR-WALL-INSERTS-COVER-PLATE-WHITE-/270792559262

Thanks Ants fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Jan 15, 2018

# ¿ Jan 15, 2018 01:27

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

I quite like the tooless modules with the little butterfly type catches on the back.

# ¿ Jan 15, 2018 20:11

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

havenwaters posted:

I need to get a new router since an ethernet port died on mine. I'm tempted to go edgerouter and UAP(s) but I know that if I do that I won't be able to use UAP(s) to talk to a wireless repeater in the garage/guest house 65-80 meters away.

I'm confused by this - if you have a device that connects to a Wi-Fi network and rebroadcasts it then that will still work if you change your APs to Unifi models.

# ¿ Jan 17, 2018 19:39

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

I thought there was UTP with no shielding, FTP with one bit of foil wrapped around all the pairs, and STP with each pair individually screened. And then a version of each of the last two with an extra screen around everything. I presume different cable manufacturers call it by different names.

# ¿ Jan 22, 2018 12:07

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

That Netgear DSL modem is poo poo. Grab a Draytek 120 or something if this is for ADSL.

# ¿ Jan 22, 2018 16:55

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

I never had much luck with it when I was using it with VDSL. If you need an ADSL modem for not-DrayTek money (anecdotally, stuff connected to a phone line tends to have a limited lifespan and I wouldn't buy it second-hand) then look at the D-Link DSL-320B or the TP-Link TD-W9970 which can be put into a bridge mode, and will also do VDSL if you get an upgrade in the future.

# ¿ Jan 22, 2018 20:35

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

I remembered my specific issue with the Netgear, which is that it can't do baby jumbo frames and the Vigor 130 can. This might not be relevant to you at all.

# ¿ Jan 22, 2018 21:16

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Chaining the sockets together like that is fine since you're connected at the end of the chain. If you plugged the router into the bedroom socket then you'd find that the un-terminated living room end would pick up interference - though DSL is designed to work with reasonably poo poo wiring so whether that would cause any problems is debatable.

If you give a toss then I'd take the bedroom socket off and gel-crimp the wires together (so blue to blue, blue/white to blue/white), and put a blanking plate where the phone socket used to be - nobody uses corded telephones any more so they won't miss it. If they are actually solid orange and green then the pair's been split which will be destroying your DSL signal. Then change the extension lead for a twisted-pair one.

# ¿ Jan 23, 2018 23:07

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

If the two connected wires are blue and orange then the pair's been split and it would be worth fixing that. Only connect wires to terminals 2 and 5.

# ¿ Jan 24, 2018 00:58

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

You don't change in-wall stuff.

It does look like the pairs have been split though - 2 and 5 are the actual line, 3 is the bell wire. 2 and 5 should be connected to the same pair - usually blue and white/blue.

# ¿ Jan 24, 2018 12:39

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Carpet posted:

Yeah I have zero experience with this sort of stuff and everything is new to me, so apologies if I'm asking basic questions.

From some googling, it looks like the 'back box' has one knockout removed which has some plastic piping going out, or might just be a grommet. I'll assume that leads to a proper conduit. And it looks like one can use a cable tester for phone cabling same as network cabling (I have used those at work).

I might remove the "rubble" later to try and get a better idea if that piping goes any further or if it's just a grommet.

What are you trying to do? That cable is buried in a plastered wall, you can't really do anything with it.

# ¿ Jan 24, 2018 14:57

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

I don't think you need to replace the wiring, you just need to connect the wires to the right place.

The cables that you see emerging into that back box will be clipped to the wall, capped with a strip of plastic and then plastered over. You aren't going to be able to replace them without having to do plastering and decorating afterwards.

# ¿ Jan 24, 2018 16:27

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

That's the good thing about standards

# ¿ Jan 25, 2018 22:48

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

I want my stuff to work when I am at home trying to forget about janitoring networks, so if I need to throw stuff out and buy new bits to make that dream closer to a reality then that's what I'm doing.

# ¿ Jan 29, 2018 23:52

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Is it a lump of wood or an engineered beam? Photos would be good but I don�t think drilling something that holds a wall up is a good idea.

# ¿ Jan 30, 2018 19:15

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

IOwnCalculus posted:

I mean it's not like we're talking about holding up a bathtub full of water here.

# ¿ Jan 30, 2018 20:56

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

If it's just unpaved ground between the two locations and it's your land then the distance is so short that I'd bury some flexible conduit and pull a fiber through it, preterminated.

# ¿ Feb 1, 2018 22:49

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

The router might not have the beans to do NAT at those sorts of throughputs.

# ¿ Feb 6, 2018 21:53

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

CrazyLittle posted:

Your home got bought out? That's harsh

lmao, nice

# ¿ Feb 16, 2018 21:31

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Why limit yourself in that way when you could just get a socket adaptor to get more outlets?

# ¿ Feb 17, 2018 18:13

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Maybe something like this would be an option

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9196

# ¿ Feb 17, 2018 20:38

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Shove the cable that comes out the wall straight into your laptop and test again

# ¿ Feb 18, 2018 14:56

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

derk posted:

@Harveygod
so, I have Verizon FiOS and do NOT use their modem/router. I have the ethernet line coming from that box in my basement right into my own router. I did have a verizon router/modem when i had it installed which i own and i just clone the MAC of that with any router i have hooked up since (avoids extra steps). Now, i only have FiOS data, no tv sub from verizon that is why i can do that because i have no need for MoCA which their router would take care of for there STBs to talk to the network and what not.

I might be talking complete poo poo but isn't there an option to get your Internet feed via the coax port on the FiOS box, or the ethernet, and Verizon need to switch you between them if you want to change? Maybe that was the early installs where they wanted to avoid running new lines into the house.

# ¿ Feb 19, 2018 20:48

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Short of asking the house builder, not really. Is there a box on the outside of the house for cable companies to use? Is there a metal cabinet recessed into the wall in a utility area that is used as a home wiring hub?

# ¿ Feb 27, 2018 13:13

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Printers and smart TVs seem notoriously terrible at not realising that networks can have more than one AP, so they list every radio they can see with the same SSID, and never bother to connect to anything other than the physical device they were connected to when originally set up.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2018 18:23

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

It's as much work to pull one cable as it is to pull a bundle of six. Cable is cheaper than extra switches, and you can put non-network stuff over a cable (HD video senders etc.). Always pull in more cable than you think you need, even if you just leave it coiled up behind the faceplate to avoid having to buy more keystones than you need.

# ¿ Mar 2, 2018 00:46

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Wi-Fi repeaters are poo poo, and aren't a true mesh as they don't do any roaming stuff.

There's a bunch of mesh products aimed at the consumer market for this task, look at the TP Link Deco, Google Wi-Fi and BT Whole Home Wi-Fi. Cheapest option is probably the twin pack of BT access points - you plug one into your router after disabling the Wi-Fi on it, and the second box links wirelessly to the first.

# ¿ Mar 4, 2018 14:54

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Put it wherever is easiest to get new runs to. If it's just running a small switch and a router and cable modem then give up on the idea of a 20a outlet it's just not necessary. Have it wired into whatever circuit runs the outlets in the room it's in.

From your options the second floor game room closet sounds like the way to go. You don't want to find yourself wanting to use the bedroom in the future and and noise making it annoying.

# ¿ Mar 19, 2018 22:49

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

No showers?

# ¿ Mar 20, 2018 08:53

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Rexxed posted:

They're probably built into the bath tubs. The house seems to have three of them.

I like showers too much to compromise with one over the bath. Nobody needs three baths in their house.

# ¿ Mar 20, 2018 15:41

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

IOwnCalculus posted:

Absolute yea on the ceiling mount AP, especially if you're using a Unifi that's meant for it.

# ¿ Mar 20, 2018 20:58

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Stick it in the corner of the games room that is closest to the centre of the house and you'll probably get pretty decent coverage over the whole space.

# ¿ Mar 20, 2018 21:32

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Does it not have internet access because you can�t get service there? Might be a dumb question but it�s possible to spend more doing this link than a second connection will cost.

# ¿ Apr 3, 2018 01:42

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Rather not have the hassle of finding a space to put that sort of gear and then dealing with shifting it when I get bored. Went through a bit of a phase and now I'm done.

# ¿ Apr 6, 2018 18:42

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

It will be the device on the edge of reception taking up a ton of radio airtime due to all the retransmissions that need to take place.

Some routers/APs let you set a minimum supported speed (so the device won't drop down to 802.11b/g just to hold a signal) and they might also let you set a minimum signal strength. Otherwise you can just turn your radio power down if that's an option.

# ¿ Apr 11, 2018 00:11

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

A VDSL2 bridge should do alright

http://www.planet.com.tw/en/product/product.php?id=49031

# ¿ Apr 16, 2018 20:23

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

The 231G has G.INP which is going to help over the longer distance.

The setting relevant here is likely to be:

code:

G.INP, sym, 8dB

  200M -> 150Mbps/150Mbps
  400M -> 117Mbps/117Mbps
  600M -> 77Mbps/77Mbps
  800M -> 43Mbps/43Mbps
  1000M -> 29Mbps/28Mbps
  1200M -> 27Mbps/15Mbps
  1400M -> 22Mbps/10Mbps

Direction is determined by which box is set to CO (central office) and which box is set to CPE - it just alters the frequency usage. If it was more important to push data to the remote site then you'd set the local one to CO and the far end to CPE, and set it up like:

code:

G.INP, ASym, 8dB

  200M -> 197Mbps/101Mbps
  400M -> 168Mbps/65Mbps
  600M -> 109Mbps/34Mbps
  800M -> 65Mbps/20Mbps
  1000M -> 53Mbps/7Mbps
  1200M -> 44Mbps/4Mbps
  1400M -> 28Mbps/4Mbps

Thanks Ants fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Apr 16, 2018

# ¿ Apr 16, 2018 20:55

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

They're $118 (each) direct https://planetechusa.com/vc-231g-1-port-101001000t-ethernet-vdsl2-bridge-30a-profile-w-g-vectoring/

# ¿ Apr 16, 2018 21:47

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# ¿ Apr 19, 2024 16:09

Thanks Ants: May 21, 2004; #essereFerrari

Depends on the construction of the home, how much time you have, and the value you place on your time. If everywhere you want to get cabling to is accessible from above/below and you know that there aren't horizontal studs in all the walls then it could be a nice little project to do yourself.

# ¿ Apr 23, 2018 22:54

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Serious Hardware/Software Crap > The Home Networking Megathread - Yes the OP is out of date

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