|
It's renovation time and I'd like to wire up the house. I'm assuming cat 7a cable would be a good call but I'm wondering how far down that rabbit hole I should go at this point. Do I bother with 7a-style termination or go with standard cat 5e stuff for now? I sure don't need 40Gbit yet, probably not even 10Gbit for now, and there's only a couple of options for terminating 7a right now if I'm reading google right, one GG45 manufacturer and a company doing custom stuff? If/when I do put properly shielded connectors into a patch panel does the panel need to be special to earth the shields or would the metal shield of the keystone do the job with any bare metal blank patch panel? Edit: The main issue is cost rather than time or effort, with the LANmark keystone connectors coming in at £18 each (2 per cable run?) and cutting-edge switches usually being prohibitively expensive. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Apr 30, 2017 |
#
¿
Apr 30, 2017 15:28
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 04:30 |
|
|
bobfather posted:Better safe than sorry in terms of your speed expectations for the future, I know, but who's to say in 20 years we won't have honest and true gigabit+ wireless networking licked? I'll have moved house by then.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2017 17:23
|
|
|
Also come on, I'm not going to be sat in my kitchen in my 50s crying over the cost of the 7a I installed back in '17. If the upgrade happens it'll be in the next few years as prices come down.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2017 17:43
|
|
|
SamDabbers posted:Run conduit, so you can upgrade your cabling later. The cost of the cable isn't that significant. The house is over a hundred years old so there's not really room for proper conduits outside of the main runs and some will wind up under plaster, so redoing the cabling later isn't an easy option, unfortunately.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2017 18:44
|
|
|
SamDabbers posted:There isn't room for ~25mm diameter conduit in the walls? I'll have a chat with the electrician, but on brick the plaster undercoat is typically 11mm with two 3mm skim topcoats. The route to the main patch panel is also likely to be a windy one and pulling cable when the ceilings are back on might be more effort than it's worth. As I say it's an old house, lots of external walls that are now internal etc.
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2017 10:41
|
|
|
Thank goodness I bought the "toolless" keystone connectors  
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2017 17:15
|
|
|
I will shortly be buying some switches, APs etc and I have a few questions. I have read the OP. The shopping list is going to be something like: - 2 or 3 wifi APs (currently looking at these https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-Business-Insight-Management-WAC510-10000S/dp/B01N1GEEQP/) - Something with maybe a dozen gigabit PoE ports (powering the APs and future security camera expansion) - 50+ gigabit ports, would be nice if 6+ of them were 10Gbit - A "really good" firewall. The last firewall I had was a custom FreeBSD box and I'm not that person anymore. "really good" for me means it does its job well and isn't a pain to manage, ideally acting in a way where I can review or monitor incoming and outgoing connections to set up rules for them. - QoS as a nice-to-have - Rackmount ideally My questions: 1. I see Ubiquiti mentioned so they're top of my research list, but is there any particular benefit to buying everything from them and staying in their ~ecosystem~? 2. For the QoS/firewall I guess I'm after a managed switch? Or should I be getting a standalone box? My experience is with unmanaged switches. 3. Any particular specific suggestions before I go down the research rabbit hole? I'd put my budget in the "significant but not bonfire of banknotes" range.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2017 18:30
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:Why 6 10 Gbit ports? You wanna open several LAGs to universities or something? Not gonna find that on a switch that also has a ton of gigabit ports. 6 is approx, but I regularly throw around TBs of data between my workstation, NAS, and hundreds of GB through the media devices. The small number of 10Gbit and the high number of 1Gbit don't have to be on the same device if it's impractical, likewise for the PoE. SEKCobra posted:I'd go for UBNT before I went for those plasticy netgear APs that are apparently managed primarily by phone? Fair enough, I'll give them good consideration. SEKCobra posted:A managed switch is not a firewall nor does it do QoS, even a L3 switch is useless for that. Could you clarify this in the OP for me? I must've misunderstood it: The OP posted:Managed switches support things like VLANs, port security, QoS, Link Aggregation, and web/network interfaces
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2017 18:56
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:You can get PoE 48 Port Gigabit Switches no problemo. My assumption was that a full PoE switch would increase the cost significantly, is it a negligible difference compared to an unpowered 48 port switch and an 8 port PoE switch? SEKCobra posted:Are you sure your hardware can use 10 GbIt? (HDDs, NAS, whatever) I thought it did but I did a double check and nope, 1Gbit only. Ignore that then, I'll expand later as appropriate. SEKCobra posted:(Switch-)Port security has nothing to do with firewalls, QoS is part of switches too, but I'd assume you want it for your Internet, so you need it on your router. I doubt you'll saturate Gigabit or 10 Gigabit in your home to the point that you'd need to prioritize your internal traffic. Ah I see. Yeah I don't need any of that stuff for LAN traffic. The Netgear wifi router I have now in my much more normal setup does have these sorts of features with the Tomato-style flashed firmware, but it (as with all routers I've ever had) has trash usability and I just don't trust it to do a good job. I'd love to stick a box in between my modem and the switch(es) to handle this stuff. SEKCobra posted:VLANs are great for segregation, but they require a good router to keep any sort of speed, definitely not something you'll wanna do in a 10 Gig network. Yeah I won't be needing VLANs for my purposes. Edit: My goal is to have very strong control (ideally with QoS) to and from the internet but it's totally fine to be a free-for-all within the local network. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Aug 30, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2017 20:04
|
|
|
This look about right?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2017 20:40
|
|
|
SlowBloke posted:Check with the seller if the cameras include the af to passive poe converter(the sku should end with af), they are much more reliable than included power bricks. It looks like the US-48-500W supports autosensing passive 24V as well as af/at. SlowBloke posted:EDIT: Where are you going to store the recorded videos? Unifi video requires either a vm with storage or its own appliance(called unifi nvr) I've got a NAS and I assumed (uh oh) that I could dump it on there somehow. It's just occurred to me that I've not accounted for cameras when running network lines as I was planning on vaguely "dealing with it later". Better get those in before all the ceilings get plastered. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Aug 30, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2017 21:17
|
|
|
SlowBloke posted:Passive 24v is something you want to avoid if possible(if you connect a standard Poe device without passive power sensing you are going to fry it, unifi uap have the circuitry to go failsafe, other brands don't), if you have the possibility to pay the same or a minimal expense I suggest to get the af injector equipped kit. What I mean is the switch supports both passive and af/at, unless I'm misunderstanding? So it shouldn't matter what I connect to it.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2017 21:54
|
|
|
SlowBloke posted:Yes, It can provide both type of power over Ethernet. My general uneasiness with passive Poe is mostly about possible device damage. For instance if you fat finger wiring up a port that you set up for a camera to say your smart tv I cannot guarantee that your smart tv will like it(and survive the experience). n0tqu1tesane posted:Yes, the switch supports passive 24v, it's a setting you have to set on a per-port basis. Just be careful not to enable it on a port that's connected to a device that won't support it. Right, I understand. Thanks both for explaining. n0tqu1tesane posted:You don't technically need the Cloud Key if you want to save the £70. If you've got an always-on PC, you can run it there. It also doesn't have to be running 24/7 if all you want to use it for is configuration. Only if you want logging for device stats, or a captive gateway for guest wireless clients does it have to be running 24/7. Fair enough. Do you know where on ubiquiti's blasted website the downloads are for these "install it on a linux box" pieces of software? Like the AV recorder one too? There'll be a local server available for this sort of thing. n0tqu1tesane posted:Also, it seems Ubiquiti has been putting 802.3af/at in some of their previously 24v only devices, and not documenting the change. I recently got a UAP-AC-Lite, which if you look on their website is only 24v, but is actually 802.af compatible. I did a bit of a search and it seems like the G3 will be the last passive camera, I suppose it's possible they've standardised the internals to af, I guess we'll see when I get them.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2017 22:25
|
|
|
SlowBloke posted:Cameras are still 24v only but you can buy them with an af instant converter in the box for certain models. Yeah the box of 5 doesn't come with any so I'll have to weigh that up.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2017 22:26
|
|
|
I'm going to be running fibre from my house to an outbuilding, and I wanted to check a) whether I'm looking at the right one, and b) which is the right connectors to be getting. (I haven't decided on a switch yet). I'm very familiar with ethernet networking, but I have no practical experience with fibre networking. Based on a very brief look at a reputable supplier, it seems something like this might be appropriate? https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/fibre-optic-cable/7388515 Is duplex OM1 correct? Do current prosumer switches typically use SC or ST connectors (or something else)? It will be connecting a small cat 8 network to a larger one. I was planning on using all ubuquiti stuff but in recent years they've been showing bad signs in terms of long term support of their equipment (and hardware/vendor lock-in). I'm asking this now just because I need to run the fibre soon, but won't need the hardware until later, so if there's an obvious choice in connector and cable to future proof for common hardware, now's the time. Thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Jun 29, 2022 11:20
|
|
|
Gotcha, I’ll have a read. Target length is around 30m. The networks on each side will be 10 to 40Gb (based on the Ethernet cable spec), so while it would be nice to be able to run multiple devices at full speed, I’m sure 10Gb for the link would be fine, at least based on what I’m seeing here. At worst it’s going through a conduit so I. An pull a new cable if needed. There’s a 30m run of LC/LC om2 here at around £85 which states 10Gb, so maybe that’ll do.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 29, 2022 11:49
|
|
|
unknown posted:OM1 cabling is wrong. That's multimode cable that probably has a layer of warehouse dust on it from never being used any more. Righto. What sort of transmission rate am I realistically going to get? Because if it's circa 10Gb/s then I might as well just use the structural cat 8 that I already have left over on a reel.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2022 14:30
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 04:30 |
|
|
Inept posted:If you already have true cat8 ethernet cable, and it's less than 100 meters, just use that. 10GB/s to an outbuilding on your property will probably be fine for at least another 25+ years. I didn't want to be telling porkies so I double checked, looks like I installed cat 7a 1200MHz cable, so not quite cat 8 but IIRC cat 8 wasn't considered a "true standard" at the time (this was 2017). I believe I installed it with the understanding that it would be reliable 10Gb with a theoretical maximum of 40Gb as a bit of future proofing. SEKCobra posted:Unless you want to shell out big bucks, you won't want to pay for anything above 10G, you can totally do 25G, 40G or 100G no problem if you pay for it though. Yeah I'm OK with some investment, but I absolutely don't need it enough to spend significant amounts on it. Honestly even the cost of the SFP modules was looking prohibitive. It's less than a 30m run, so I'll just use the 7a copper. The slightly regrettable part is that I've already run a "this is fibre" green conduit with a "warning fibre below" tape above it per regulations. Oh well! It's all very low voltage anyway. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Jun 30, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2022 16:04
|
|