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Bucket Joneses posted:Soon I will have a Synology DS411 wired into this as well.  WARNING! Have your wife double her usual birth control regimen because you are going to be ROCK HARD once you get that Synology box setup and serving content. Oh, don't want to stuff it completely full of 2TB drives right now? No biggie. Down the road just throw in another and the super-duper Synology Hybrid RAID adds the disk live with no downtime. Oh sure, it takes a couple days to reborgify a new disk into the array but UNFFFFF!!!  I've got the DS410 and it's a beast for handling home content. Just added a third hard drive and oh mamma, look at all that space.
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Mar 27, 2012 21:46
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Inspector_71 posted:In DD-WRT, if I want to have a wired port and a wireless network on the same VLAN, how would I go about doing that? I already know how to create the VLANs, but not how to join a wired and wireless into the same one. Is it as simple as just creating a bridge for the two connections? This is on an E3000 running V24 preSP2 Build: 16785. I'm pretty sure you'll need to bridge the interfaces. Tag them as being on the same VLAN and you should be in good shape.
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Apr 3, 2012 09:39
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MMD3 posted:hmmm, so what are you suggesting is the best way to go about configuring it? is my diagram going to do the trick or do I need another router in there somewhere? You need to put the router after the cable modem. It will now anchor your home network and act as the head-end. Hopefully your computer upstairs will talk to the router without issue. Wiring up the boxee box is an excellent idea. That can probably go right to the router. You likely don't need a switch at all.
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Apr 6, 2012 05:06
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:My project for the weekend was to cram them all in there and close it up. Is it a metal cover for your wiring cabinet. If so, you're creating a nice little Faraday cage for your wireless.  Solution is to use your wired house to the fullest. Move the wifi router somewhere else in the house, turn off any dhcp nonsense so it's just acting as a dumb wireless access point and plug it into a wall somewhere central. Vroom vroom, plenty of signal everywhere.
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Apr 10, 2012 02:31
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:To hell with your practical, low-cost solutions! I only know how to throw money at my problems. Sorry I thought I saw another router in the mix with your other stuff in the cabinet. At home I've got a router and wireless router so I can easily reposition the wifi to where it's needed without having to give up routing at the head end of my network. Mostly it's because the mikrotik router i've got doesn't have wireless so it handles the tricky stuff and leaves wireless to a repurposed wrt54g. Anyway, your setup looks sufficiently spendy and awesomely apple so good job!
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Apr 10, 2012 21:46
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Avian Pneumonia posted:Is there any reason I shouldn't go with the monoprice unit? Is it worth the extra dough to go for the e2000? Do not buy the monoprice wireless N router. It's a steaming, flaming, gurgling pile of fetid poop. We've RMA'ed 16 of the bastards out of 20 ordered and I'll personally happily stomp the poo poo out of any more I find in the field. They are horrible. It's too bad, a lot of monoprice's stuff is cheap *and* good, this was just cheap.
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Apr 19, 2012 22:32
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Roving Reporter posted:Does anyone know of a detailed guide to setting up the Ubiquiti nanostations mentioned in the OP? They come with a setup guide. What part are you having problems with?
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Apr 22, 2012 04:23
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Maneki Neko posted:I'm guessing I'd just be terminating ethernet connections, ye olde telephone and cable connections are already run and there's no way I'm rerunning those. If you aren't going to re-run everything to the new cabinet I wouldn't bother. They're kind of nice for new installs but I find that you always end up buying too small a cabinet. They aren't deep enough for all the goodies you want to stuff in there. Better to make a little rack and use a patch panel.
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Apr 23, 2012 05:51
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The Third Man posted:So I'm sick of my internet connection cutting in and out and hearing the same old "well your signal looks good on our end" spiel from Comcast, and I'd like to have more control of my connectivity, or at least be able to diagnose issues myself. First off, I'm renting a modem right now, would it make sense to purchase one? Continue to rent your modem until you finish troubleshooting. Plug directly into the modem with a single computer. Reboot the modem and make sure your connection comes up. Start up pings to a neutral target - google.com and 4.2.2.2 I would use big pings to the latter target so that you have a chance to see if you're dropping bigger or smaller packets. ping -t -l 1400 4.2.2.2 Let that run for a while. When you "lose signal" check the lights on the cable modem - are they in a different pattern than normal? Are your pings dropping? If so, get on the phone with your ISP and report this. Best case is they will see a problem as it's happening. If you don't see any drops or problems after running this configuration for a couple days then yes, your router may be poo poo.
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Apr 23, 2012 17:44
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The Third Man posted:I've been pinging google.com for a couple hours now and it's dropping maybe 4-8%, and every now and again it will spike up from 50ms to anywhere from 600-2000ms. I'm pretty sure the modem is at fault here, but can I also ping my router to eliminate that possibility? If so, the router's IP is going to show up as the Default Gateway(192.168.1.1 on my end) on an ipconfig /all, correct? Thanks very much for the advice You shouldn't drop any packets but definitely not more than 1%. Yes, pinging your default gateway will rule out problems between you and your router. If you haven't bothered to plug in directly to the modem then you should be pinging the router to see if the drops are happening at the same time.
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Apr 25, 2012 08:59
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The Third Man posted:Yeah, that was pretty much the guide I followed. I was just poking around in my router and discovered that I can just reserve IP address for specific devices, that should make manually setting a static IP on the server irrelevant, right? No. Your external IP, the one provided to you by your ISP, needs to be a routable IP. That means it isn't in the range 192.168.x.x or 10.x.x.x or 172.16.x.x If you see either of those three, then you need to talk to them first to get a routable IP assigned. That's fairly uncommon but what is most common is that your router is handling the routable IP assigned by your provider. It then uses network address translation to share that single IP to all the other computers on your network. Your external, internet-facing IP is whatever your router gets. That's what you give to your friends. Next, you need to set your game machine to a static location on your internal network so that your port forwards don't go all weird during reboots. If your router uses 192.168.1.x for its local IP's then set yourself to somewhere in that range that isn't in use like: 192.168.1.50 Log into your router, go to the port forwards section and forward the Murmur ports on the outside of the firewall to the IP address of your computer on the inside of the network. That will send any data headed to your external IP destined for that port directly to your PC for processing. Ta-da, your ports are forwarded. Classic thing to check on a windows machine - make sure your *local* firewall isn't blocking those ports.
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Apr 30, 2012 06:35
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albear posted:So my work is looking to upgrade some hardware and on the long list of things included in these upgrades is a Watchguard XTM21. Anyone know anything about this router? How does it compare to a router loaded with DD-WRT or OpenWRT? It's a lot like a Sonicwall only kind of stupid and bad unless you like Watchguard in which case it's not too terrible.  As for comparing it to consumer hardware running DD-WRT, there isn't any comparison. It should, in general, stomp all over those devices. Except when it does annoying Watchguardian things. I work with Sonicwalls so these are annoying to encounter. Folks that work exclusively with Watchguard tend to feel the same about Sonicwalls.
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May 10, 2012 00:22
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TraderStav posted:I've had the idea of getting an omnidirectional antenna and extending the range of my wifi to encircle their homes and share my internet connection with them, as well as creating a large home network. Sounds like fun. Mikrotik OS running on a Routerboard RB411 with an Atheros wifi card into an outdoor case to an omni. Bam - insane signal all over the place. There will be loads of coverage problems and all kinds of oddities, not to mention the slowdowns that will occur as all the families light up the airwaves trying to watch Hulu or Netflix or do anything else. It will probably work pretty good until two folks want to stream video over the air, then things will tend to get pretty choppy.
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May 19, 2012 00:58
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TraderStav posted:Was just talking about that with the neighbor just now. I'm getting around 12-15mbps. How much would really start screwing it up? There's no good way to tell how it's going to work until you rig everything up and see how people connect. However, some basic principles apply: - weak signals drag everyone down to slower connect speeds. - wired connections dominate. Make sure you are wired into the router and your local home network for best speeds - more users generate more traffic which slows everyone down. - Non-Line-of-Sight systems suck compared to LOS systems. This is going to go through several walls to reach people so every radio will have to work harder to talk and be understood. More than likely casual users will be happy with the convenience while folks wanting to move lots of data (netflix) will be extremely unhappy once their neighbors start using the airwaves. Using good gear helps to alleviate this problem a little bit but it's still going to boil down to running a multi-user system on the cheap and that ends up making very few people happy. If you want to try that overblown MWave Monster Truck-lookin' XXTreme router, it may do the trick. For $44 bucks it's worth it just to see.
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May 21, 2012 19:48
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MC Fruit Stripe posted:pfsense question, asking again, shot in the dark. If you don't know, please quote this post and call me a name. Last time I'll ask though - honestly it's not incredibly important, but it would be nice to know. Would you please draw us a map of how you have things hooked up? I don't know pfSense so I don't know what you mean by its "lab" side. I suspect it's working correctly right now - it's not routing between two private IP ranges full of non-routable IP's. Then again, you may have a different physical setup than what I"m picture so who knows. Write it up, draw it in paint or whatever and then maybe we can figure this out.
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May 31, 2012 18:08
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movax posted:Yep, it's via some SMC cable gateway.
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Jun 13, 2012 19:34
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Bunk Rogers posted:I've two questions. Will the CAT6 suffice or should I try running something like fiber before I patch up the holes. Also, what kind of switch\router\hub would be recommended to handle the work in the attic? Trendnet gigabit switches are nice and cheap and do a decent job. Might as well start with a 5 or 8-port gigabit version of one of those to wire up your gear on the top floor. Make sure you have gigabit at the far end and you should have a screaming fast internal network.
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Jun 19, 2012 17:33
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Hank Delibird posted:Is there a good MikroTik solution for doing Simultaneous Dual Band AGN? I've been looking around and it appears the best way to go about that would be an RB433GL and 2 R52hM cards which is a really expensive route to go. I need to be able to use the 5GHz spectrum because the 2.4GHz spectrum is cramped where I'm living which knocks the RB751 off the list for me. Unfortunately I think you're out of luck with Mikrotik in this regard. Its dual-band support isn't very good. Folks in the Mikrotik forums also point out that the Mikrotik is a 2x2 device for MIMO while an Airport Extreme is 3x3 meaning you have much better noise rejection with the Airport as well as simultaneous dual-band. Unless there is something specific you need from the Mikrotik, this might be a good spot to try the Airport Extreme. I love Mikrotik an awful lot but my experience with 802.11n on their gear hasn't been impressive so far.
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Jul 6, 2012 19:21
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Frozen-Solid posted:I just had a two hour chat log with Netgear support. They had me change CTS/RTS Threshold to 2304 from the 2347 default. We'll see if that does anything, but I doubt it. This is funny as poo poo. I am already sharing it with my coworkers. Here's hoping your ubuntu server will handle DHCP with a little more grace than your lovely Netgear.
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Jul 23, 2012 01:18
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Zero VGS posted:Has anyone successfully used the Nanostations (or anything else) for around a mile of point-to-point bridging in a city? We shoot these bad boys all over the place. A mile shouldn't be any big deal point-to-point. Making sure you have a clean line of sight is the real issue. They will be much more sensitive to that than lower spectrum equipment (2.4 and lower).
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Aug 16, 2012 00:33
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Meat Recital posted:Is there any way I can change where the signal is being picked up without moving my PC? Maybe a different antenna or something? Not knowing what wifi card you have, yes, a different antenna would be a good approach. If your card supports swapping in external antennas that can make a huge difference.
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Aug 16, 2012 18:27
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odinson posted:My PS3 was stolen while I was at work tonight and I was wondering if I can get its MAC Address from my router. I have a D-link DIR-601. The PS3 was only connected via wifi however. If there is a better thread for this, please let me know. Status -> Device Info Look for LAN computers and see if the PS3's dhcp lease is still there.
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Aug 26, 2012 08:05
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The_Franz posted:I think the general rule is 100 meters, not feet. Correct. 328' or 100m of ethernet cabling per segment. You can then stick a hub in there to regenerate and repeat the signal to add another segment giving you 200m or 656 feet of ethernet. This is the maximum according to the spec, people do crazy stupid things all the time that aren't to spec and have mixed results because of that. Like the dudes who ran a 500' run of ethernet that actually worked for years. Too bad the switch that magically kept this limping along *melted* one day and after that, it was time to look into a proper run that was broken up at the appropriate spots.
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Sep 28, 2012 18:55
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ehhhhhhnnnnnn posted:I'm looking into splitting my LAN in two to isolate the machines that use a lot of bandwidth from the ones that don't. Make sure the 3 iMacs are wired to the router. That will give the best throughput. I suspect that the limiting factor here is the speed of the FTP server software on the router itself rather than any one piece in the puzzle. If all of these machines are trying to see this data wirelessly then stop - you won't make any changes that will help with speeds.
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Oct 5, 2012 18:53
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Illuminado posted:EDIT: On a completely separate issue: I'm trying to get my parents a decent ISP. If they have a line of sight between their house and a neighbor that has high speed they could leech off of that by setting up a wireless link between the houses. The hardware isn't terribly expensive and you can get a few miles out of it for range. Otherwise they are pretty well out of luck for streaming. They'll cripple themselves with phone bills if they try to tether their phones and stream over cell networks. Sorry, welcome to rural america.
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Nov 3, 2012 22:33
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EC posted:Mind going into some more detail, or linking some stuff? Our camp at the lake doesn't get DSL, but the house next it to does. The neighbors are willing to share, and we gave them a random DLINK router that we had laying around to put out wifi. We can see the network about 20' away from our place, but that's all. I'd love to find something easy (and cheap, although I'm willing to throw money at it) to hook up to the DLINK to increase the range. A pair of ubiquiti nanostations with POE adapters + some ethernet cabling will give you a sweet 5GHz radio link between your two buildings: http://www.amazon.com/UBIQUITI-NANOSTATION-LOCO-802-11B-WIRELESS/dp/B0023SDH8E WARNING: You must have a clear line of sight between the locations. These radios act like an invisible ethernet cable between the network at one house and your house. It will not work through trees and bushes and other poo poo. If the two houses are obscured, that calls for entirely different hardware.
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Nov 6, 2012 00:45
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Farecoal posted:That reminds me, is Clear/Clearwire considered a lovely ISP? My dad got into a two-year contract with them and doesn't want to pay the termination fees. If you are near a tower and there's not a lot of subscribers then it should run okay. It's not great but works well enough. If the tower got oversold then you're hosed and will have perpetually horrible service and a two year contract. They get pretty piss-poor reports on their customer service in general. If you have another option, it's probably better to go with them.
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Nov 13, 2012 03:15
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timb posted:I've got two separate networks in the house. Two DSL modems and two Time Capsules.
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Nov 20, 2012 23:24
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Modig -- download inSSIDer on your windows laptop and see who else is broadcasting. Then set yourself to the clearest channel.
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Nov 25, 2012 12:36
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modig posted:I figured out how to change channels in DD-WRT, you have to switch the channel width to a fixed number. Now I'm on 10 and things seem a bit better, also I put it on n-only, which seemed to help some. I'm not dropping as many packets, and most pings are 1-3ms, but it still spikes up to 100ms occasionally. I used something called Wifi Scanner from the mac app store since that was easier than running a windows program, it worked ok. You shouldn't have to fiddle channel-width. 20MHz is standard for 802.11b/g operation. Fancy N stuff can sometimes take advantage of 10MHz channels or be a huge goddamn hog and splatter its gross self over 40MHz of space. If you're way out in the country and have nothing but N-capable gear then firing up the old 40MHz channels is great. If you're in the city, 
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Nov 27, 2012 01:17
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Erned posted:I'm looking for a wireless router that will give me absolutely uninterrupted service on wired ethernet. Money is no object, I just need something with extremely reliable ethernet because if it stops working even once the results could be catastrophic. A few thousand later, you should be set with a high-availability failover system with redundant gear and hot spares so that you can avoid this catastrophic networking situation. I'm curious, what are you doing that requires such a high level of reliability?
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Dec 3, 2012 23:02
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Not That Into You posted:I just moved to a new place and my desktop is now in an office away from the router (Netgear 3700), so I need to pick up a wireless card. Searching newegg I see a lot of "dual-band" labels. Does this mean there are cards that can connect to both the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands simultaneously, effectively doubling my wireless throughput? No, it means that the wireless card can connect to one or the other spectrums. It won't connect to both at the same time.
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Dec 13, 2012 22:19
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Goon Matchmaker posted:I recently just bought a house and I'm trying to set up an ethernet network in all rooms. I've run cat5e (it was free ok?) everywhere I want it and I'm using cat6 wall jacks. The problem is that whenever I plug a computer into one of my wired up ports it detects it as a crossover connection and the link comes up at 10mbit half duplex. If I have a switch on both ends, it's fine, I get full gig-e speeds (115MB/s over the wire). I need to know either what I'm doing wrong or be pointed to some wall jacks that are idiot proof. Sounds like the jacks are miswired. Grab your punchdown tool, pop open the jacks and repunch your entire house to the T568B standard everywhere. If you brought all your cables back to a central patch panel, make sure it's punched down to T568B on there. Once all your cables are in order then they should register as straight through and not need any fiddling to hook you up. Mixing CAT5E cable and CAT6 wall jacks won't cause this problem - having mixed standards (568A on one end, 568B on the other) will definitely show up like this. What's funny is that modern computers generally have auto-crossover NICs built in, they shouldn't need a switch to fix things for them.
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Dec 19, 2012 00:58
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caiman posted:Anyone? Range extenders are kind of flaky. Why not try powerline networking to see if you get better performance for your Netflix-enabled Bluray player versus trying to shuttle gigs of data over the air. Have you tried any troubleshooting on the wireless yet? Tried different channels, checked with inSSIDer for noisy neighbors or anything like that?
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Dec 28, 2012 00:54
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Slo-Tek posted:So, I built this houseboat over the last few 10 years or so. It is 55 yards from the belkin N spec router in a closet with a few doors and windows and 50 yards of lawn and dock inbetween. As it stands my signal drops off mid yard about 15 yards short of where I need it. Need more range. Per the op, I want a better router. Will that be enough? Ugh, no this isn't a good setup at all. You'll want to build a repeater setup so that you can blast signal strongly and clearly over to the router and when you're in harbor you can pick up routers a mile away or so and link up. Get a decent wifi bridge, Ubiquiti and Mikrotik/Routerboard are good sources, and then point that at your router. BAM! Huge signal! Next, get a wifi router to provide service on the boat. Now you can cruise around in style. I would do this with a single unit from Routerboard using the MikroTik RouterOS. It would probably be an RB433 with a pair of Atheros-based wifi cards (probably one XR2 the other could be just about anything). Then I'd put it in an outdoor case and seal it up against the weather with some complicated venting arrangement to keep it cool. One strand of LMR would head off to the roof of the boat to connect to the antenna up there - that's my link to the outside world. The other antenna connector would go to a rubber duck antenna (those dumb pole antennas) for distribution inside the boat. It's way more expensive and stupid than you could possibly imagine but since I work with this equipment all day I figure it would make me least annoyed when I moved to another network and needed to update how I connected. Plus, I'd laugh and laugh as I hit SCAN and picked up all those sweet open wireless networks down in the harbor... and across the water... and across the bay thanks to my bigass panel antenna. This is just in the case where you have a decent budget and don't mind building a system from scratch and aren't horrified by the Mikrotik way of doing things. Otherwise you can get a super duper cheap Ubiquiti solution that should do pretty much the same thing. Plug into the Ubiquiti - program for connecting to the local hotspot and then plug your local wifi router back in to distribute within the boat.
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Dec 28, 2012 01:18
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Cicero posted:Hey goons, I'm looking for a solution to this: Get a USB wireless adapter, a couple of USB extension cables and an opaque plastic container. Put the USB wireless adapter into the container, hooked into one of the USB cables. Seal it up with a little silicone so that its weatherproof and then put that outside your garage. Now it should pick up the signal from your router with ease and you can then plug the other end into your computer.
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Jan 1, 2013 21:56
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Cicero posted:I need to have signal for a bunch of devices, and most of them won't be computers. Then I personally would rig together some stupid, overpriced Mikrotik-based mechanism out of spare parts from work. My Frankenstein creation would have old cards with dodgy specs, hand terminated LMR cable done as a "test" of some crimpers and maybe even a handmade rubber duck antenna rigged up out of some PVC and copper wire. I'd do this because to me, loving around with parts and building up a router is fun. More to the point, I'm personally comfortable working with Mikrotik and with the right board it's easy as hell to setup a couple wifi cards (one backhaul, one distribution). Your time has value so a pair of cheapie routers (one of them running tomato or DD-WRT) would probably be the simplest solution. The fancy router with the alternate firmware you'd use to act as a wireless client and have that talk back to the AP in your house. The other router you'd setup with a different channel and then same SSID and security info as the house router. Now your garage becomes a well-covered hotspot and if you crack open the garage and roam across the way your laptop/device should auto-hop to the main AP when it notices the signal pick up. I'd still get an external antenna to make sure my bridging router had the absolute best link possible back to the house. That antenna would need to sit outside the garage so that it had an unobstructed line of sight to your house. That alone should give you a nice multi-megabit backhaul. Then with a loud router blasting away within the garage all your local devices should run very smoothly. Key points - setup the bridging router as a client, use an external antenna to link it to the house. The second garage router should be setup as an AP-only (no dhcp or NAT-ing) and you should use the same SSID and security info as the house, just a different channel.
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Jan 3, 2013 03:13
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Lowen SoDium posted:I am currently wiring my house with CAT 6 and deploying a couple of Ubuquiti APs to get wireless coverage. This Switch is going on sale in about an hour for $180 on newegg so I am going to get it. An RB750G would be a fine head-end router and should have no trouble moving data around your network. Your switch is really going to do the bulk of the work internally and unless you have something outrageous for your internet connection you aren't going to stress the chip on the Mikrotik. Your physical infrastructure - the wiring - is going to be your best investment for the future of your house. Swapping out routers and switches down the road as technology comes down in cost will be pretty painless since you are building a nice backbone for everything to run on.
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Jan 3, 2013 22:14
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BeefSupreme posted:the wiring in one corner is from about 1950 and 1985 in the other, and they are on separate sub-panels. Is that a problem?
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Jan 11, 2013 22:32
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BeefSupreme posted:drat. Doesn't matter that they're on the same main? And if the best solution is to run ethernet, am I going cat6 as I've seen some people mention on here? It may work okay, sorry I thought you said that the power lines were split up. If they all tie back to the same main panel then it should work out. I'd give it a try before hassling with ethernet. As for whether to run CAT5 or CAT6 I would personally go with CAT5e cable and ends because I work with that stuff for a living. I'm not sold on the magical properties of CAT6 yet because I don't deal with high speed infrastructure that has to reject a ton of noise - where I'm at are mostly new houses or short runs that will handle gigabit speeds with ease over regular CAT5e wiring. Other folks want to future proof things a bit and will insist on using CAT6. Personally, I'd be cheap because I can get most of the materials through work so CAT5 is good enough for me. Geektox posted:Today, while clearing out a crawlspace, I found this thing, which I can only assume is some sort of networking dealio: Take an afternoon and map out what jack goes where, build a map and keep it in the panel for future reference. Then you can light up your house super easily with some patch cords and a switch. That will tie the ethernet runs together and then you can decide which room you want your head-end modem and router to reside in. Nicely done wiring too - that all looks well tied down and it appears to have decent labeling.
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Jan 16, 2013 20:30
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