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Longinus00 posted:Bonded 1Gb ports?
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Nov 21, 2011 06:04
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Shaocaholica posted:So link aggregation with 1G works up to 4? Can you get 4x1G NICs cheaper than 10G NICs? Link aggregation as a generic concept goes more than 4 links - I know for a fact that on a lot of Cisco platforms you can do up to 8-link Etherchannel/bundling. At a certain point, though, you start to go to more trouble/pay more money to get a lot of 1G ports and run a bunch of cables in between than to just do one 10G link. As Ninja Rope mentioned, most applications do a per-flow hashing algorithm to load balance across links, often based on IP/MAC addresses. If you have one host communicating with one other host, this kind of thing will generally hash to the same link for every frame and not use the others at all. Some load-balancing works per-packet/frame, which is a lot better for a limited number of flows. If you can hash on TCP/UDP port number or other layer 4+ info then that will also help assuming your traffic has some diversity there, but - really, we're getting pretty deep into platform/application limitations here. The 4 figure was just an arbitrary design ideal off the top of my head, not a hard rule; the main point is that even if you can stick 10x1G NICs in your server for cheaper than a 10G, that doesn't necessarily mean it's better. EDIT: Since this is for *home* networking though, I'd say you should probably try to aggregate in another link or two if necessary before shelling out a pile of cash for 10G gear. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Nov 21, 2011 |
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Nov 21, 2011 21:56
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Vinlaen posted:Oh, I don't mind at all messing with networking configuration. I run a Mikrotik RB751 and have exactly zero complaints with it; the wireless signal goes clear into another building easily. The web interface configuration isn't really that complex, there are just more features than you would ever need. You should get the G version if you care about gigabit ports - I'm pretty sure either way it's cheaper than an AEBS.
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Feb 24, 2012 02:10
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Heresiarch posted:I have never heard anybody refer to the 7-layer OSI model who knew a drat thing about putting actual networks together. Really? All the time, I hear competent people things say like "This is a Layer 1 problem, why are you looking at TCP?" or "This load balancing function hashes on Layer 2 and 3 source and destination." I guess you could say specific protocols instead, but it seems useful for keeping in mind what comes first when troubleshooting.
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May 11, 2012 15:09
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TwoKnives posted:I have a combo cable modem/router from my ISP that I suspect may be overheating. If I set it up as a bridge and connect a decent router, would that prevent it from heating up, due to the work being offloaded? I'm asking out of curiosity more than anything. Can't be certain but it would very likely help, yes.
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Jun 27, 2012 20:04
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Depending on how cheap you want to be, you can run monowall or something on an old PC with multiple NICs. The power bill will eventually outweigh the cost of a new device but it will take a while. If you already have an AP (and you do, counting the N900) then any old router will probably be fine for just handling the NAT connections over wired. You don't necessarily need to get the $55 model.
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Dec 22, 2015 19:22
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Binary Badger posted:The thread choice is the Ubiquiti Networks UAP-AC-LITE UniFi Access Point, $98.97 from Amazon at this moment.. You can also get the UAP-AC-PRO for only $142 if you want 3x3 MIMO, but I don't know how much difference it will make with most adapters. I haven't used the Ubiquiti AC gear yet but have had really good results with their 2.4GHz N stuff. The wireless-wired bridging feature works surprisingly well, for anyone who is trying to get a wired connection somewhere that they can't run Cat5.
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Jan 16, 2016 02:51
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Feenix posted:Is it more or less safe to assume that if I've been reusing my random-rear end Ethernet cables for some time now that they may be holding back my speeds, (likely not 5e)? I wouldn't say that's a safe assumption. If they're good cables and haven't been damaged then they could be fine, it's not like they wear out from use. Unless you are having problems with autonegotiation or connectivity they can probably be left alone. You could try an FTP transfer or iperf test to another device on the switch if you have one handy to be sure. There's not an easy way to know how good the included cables are but precut Cat5E cables aren't exactly expensive so I wouldn't worry about the cable quality unless you see something off. If you are having connectivity issues though the cable is always an easy first step to check as long as it's not run inside the walls or something. Massasoit posted:I got a pretty cheap router that has been working well for a few years, but now we're living with roommates and in an area with a lot of wireless networks. Assuming you want a wireless router and don't have a separate AP, TP-Link's Archer C7 comes well recommended and is ~$92 on Amazon right now. I am not aware if there's something more recent that's preferred but it checks all the boxes - a/b/g/n/ac, GigE, USB 3.0. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 16:14
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Feenix posted:I just meant a lot of my cables may be a decade old. My devices are newer and may take advantage of faster speeds than cat5 can pass through... Oh - yeah, that's fair. Gigabit can run over regular Cat5 but depending on wear, length and termination may drop down to 100M if it's not working right. Does your desktop (or whatever you're connecting over cables) autonegotiate to 1G though?
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Jan 19, 2016 16:31
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Ubiquiti has point-to-point 5GHz solutions that claim 10km+ range, but I haven't used them and don't know if there's terrain or obstacles in between that would give you issues. If you're only doing office stuff then a cell network modem like smax said might make more sense.
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Jan 19, 2016 20:22
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slidebite posted:I think I know the answer to this, but thought I'd ask just to be 100% sure. Yeah, just get a switch. The brand is pretty irrelevant, unmanaged consumer switches are a commodity and tend to just work.
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Jan 25, 2016 21:15
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Good Will Hrunting posted:So I moved in today and I don't have a cable connection in my room. The wireless router will be about 30 feet away through two walls. I'll need to buy either a WiFi adapter or a power line adapter to use my desktop. My question is which I should try first. If the powerline works well, ideally it would be better than Wifi, correct? If not I can just return the powerline adapters m and get a WiFi adapter. Also running powerline to my room means I can have my Xbone wired as well. If the source and destination outlets are on the same breaker, the powerline will probably work well. If they aren't and the house has newish/good wiring, it may work well. If it's an old house with original wiring and you're going to be going across breakers, feel free to try it but don't get your hopes up. My results with an "up to 500Mbps" pair of powerline adapters and the former three situations were 400Mbps, 30Mbps, and nothing respectively. If you get a good connection it will definitely be a lot better than any but the best wireless connections though. I have a router from work with an IP phone attached and it goes through the powerline adapter to my main home router, and I've never noticed any kind of issues with the VoIP quality so jitter and latency at least are consistently low. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Jan 30, 2016 |
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Jan 30, 2016 17:15
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Ihmemies posted:My ISP (Sonera) gives: rtt min/avg/max/mdev = 5.333/5.549/5.744/0.138 ms Well, that's a 6ms difference. Would you notice a 6ms delay in fetching a webpage? I'm guessing not.
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Feb 9, 2016 17:38
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Wilford Cutlery posted:Now that I have a nice new AC router, I'd like to replace the old wireless card in my laptop with something to match it. What are the good choices? Needs to be a half-size Mini-PCI Express adapter. Intel 3160 is cheap and dual-band AC and has Bluetooth too, what more could you want? I put one of these in a Latitude E6230 not long ago and it works great.
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Mar 11, 2016 19:44
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Azhais posted:So, dear friends of the home networking thread, regale me with tales of 2GB internet. Comcast now offers this very gimmicky speed that screams "Our competitors have 1gb fiber coming? Well we've got 2!" despite the fact that I imagine 99% of home users have (at best) a 1gb router, a 1gb switch, and 1gb network cards in their computers. Not knowing any more than what you've said, I wonder if Comcast is bullshitting and the "2Gb" refers to 1Gb up + 1 down. I seriously doubt they are offering a link aggregated connection or throttled 10GbE for a home package, but I could be wrong.
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Mar 14, 2016 04:39
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Antillie posted:So unless you go out and get some very specialized hardware its actually only 1 gig service. The fiber NIC requirement means that you are either buying a commercial grade router from Cisco or whoever or you are building a dedicated PC with a fiber NIC to be a router with pfSense or Linux. The first option is very expensive and so far outside of end user friendly its not even a serious answer and the second option not only costs far more than a good consumer router, it is still far more technical than most people are willing to bother with. And then you still need 10gig interfaces or link aggregation with 1 gig interfaces on the LAN for literally everything, both of which are pretty tall orders by themselves, even in a semi serious setting. And since neither option does wifi particularly well you are still looking at buying an AP on top of the already considerable cost. I don't think that people will be buying this service and getting half the advertised speed if they're terminating it with 10GBase-SR as the other poster said earlier, because you definitely can't connect to that with a conventional Cat5/RJ45 gigabit router. You can't even connect to it with 1GBase-SR in my experience; there are devices that do both, but you need to swap out the optics. Maybe they provide a router with a rental fee?
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Mar 17, 2016 22:33
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Revitalized posted:So this Power Line networking... does that mean if someone flips the switch for I dunno, say a washing machine or some big power tools, I'll notice a disruption in service/quality? Anything's possible but it's not likely. I am pretty sure that the Ethernet-over-power standards are just putting their own signal on the wire at a totally different frequency from the AC power being supplied, so as long as there's a path to the receiver the frequency filter on the other side can pick out the specific signal carrying data and send it on down for decoding. A dip in voltage due to high draw from another device shouldn't be a problem as long as it doesn't draw so much that it causes a brownout on other devices using the same circuit, since the signal that is dipping isn't the part that is carrying data. This is especially true for anything that is on a separate breaker, like a washing machine likely would be. In my personal experience, I bought a Phicomm "up to 500Mbps" pair of EoP adapters a few years back and have used them both intra-and inter-breaker and they've been pretty reliable - if they aren't on the same breaker they might not be able to get a signal, but if they do then nothing is going to take them down except for an actual power outage. XmasGiftFromWife posted:No windows. No nothing. I was once in a situation where I wanted to get a connection in the other end of an L-shaped house and had to send a signal like 50ft through two exterior walls at an angle, and while it was a giant headache I eventually had some success with using two of Ubiquiti's 2.4GHz long range APs (AC wasn't out yet) with the far end in bridge mode. It wasn't 100% reliable, but the vast majority of the time I could get 10-15Mbps. I don't know what the material of those exterior walls was, though - with brick and cinderblock, you may be kind of screwed. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Mar 28, 2016 |
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Mar 28, 2016 18:30
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Krakkles posted:Hmmm. My googling here may have been unsuccessful - "Intel nuc i6" in Google came up with: 6th gen isn't a big deal for what you want, since the only difference is Skylake v. Broadwell and having an SDXC slot built in. The use case you're describing is basically my work desktop - I use it to host telnet/SSH connections to devices inside the work network, and I can then use VPN/RDC from my laptop at home to get to that machine and not have to tolerate latency and disconnects on all of the telnet/SSH sessions. I use a Broadwell i3 NUC (NUC5i3RYH) running Windows 10 and it works perfectly. Honestly, if you want it to be cheaper you could probably get away with the Celeron or Pentium models that are under 200. Just keep in mind that if you start doing anything actually demanding to the CPU you'll notice, because if I recall correctly Braswell is just a Cherry Trail Atom with a higher power target. XmasGiftFromWife posted:Could you link me to something that might work? I'm having difficulty making sense of their product line. If I could manage Netflix is be super happy. But even Pandora and updating my website would greatly improve my studio time. Not doing any gaming just inter web basics. I don't see the one I got (it was in 2012) but this looks pretty similar from another brand. My experience with my set can be summed like so: Connection within the same breaker (in general): 300+Mbps Connection from one breaker to another (10 year old house): ~40Mbps Connection from one breaker to another (50 year old house): Nothing Obviously, if you want to go across breakers your wiring age/quality will make a difference so keep that in mind. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Mar 29, 2016 |
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Mar 29, 2016 14:48
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smax posted:I messed that up - I meant to say NUC6. It's just the latest version, and they're definitely out. If I remember right, the biggest improvements were in power consumption and video performance (if you ever hook it up to a TV or something). Yeah, if you get the i5-6260U model then you'll have the Iris 540 graphics with eDRAM and according to Ars the power consumption is a bit lower, but the difference is inconsequential if the device isn't running at load. You're also planning on using this over a remote connection for graphics-light applications, so it's not clear that you'll ever realize any benefit from Iris. I can say that my i3-5010U model doesn't seem to have any problems with normal document/multimedia stuff. If you were going to get the Broadwell i5 model I'd say yeah, wait and get a Skylake if you can, but there isn't a successor for the NUC5PPYH Braswell model yet anyway so if you think that's adequate there's no reason to wait.
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Mar 29, 2016 18:24
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That looks like a really detailed and thorough post, I like it. It's also got me wondering, does the Nanostation preserve its multiple-km range without LoS? I have some relatives out in the sticks who pay through the nose for satellite internet and if they had a way to share one uplink across multiple households they might be tempted, but there are trees and hills between them.
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Apr 6, 2016 21:52
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Yeah, if you want to find the actual speed of the link you'll have to run something like iperf. There may be an included utility with the adapters, although I'd take anything it says with a grain of salt unless tests confirm it.
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Apr 9, 2016 20:21
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Spiritus Nox posted:How do I use iperf? The documentation on the download site wasn't terribly clear to me. Basically you put two machines at either end of a link and run a server on one end and a client on the other. So for the server side you'd go "iperf -s" and on the client you go "iperf -c <IP_of_server>". If you have multiple NICs on one device you might need to use -B to bind to the one you want and there are other options too, but by default it should just spam TCP as fast as it can for 10 seconds and then tell you what it was able to do. You could also just try a file copy over FTP, it'll give pretty similar results unless something odd is going on.
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Apr 10, 2016 04:16
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lignicolos posted:For internet access, I am currently tethering my iPhone 6 to my Archer C7 via USB to share the phone's LTE connection for my devices at home. The archer is only able to do this because it's got DD-WRT installed. The stock firmware doesn't have this capability. The problem is, it doesn't work very well. The iPhone tethering feature seems to crash the router regularly, and it's not very consistent about recognizing that the iPhone is plugged in. Also, i'm not a huge fan of DD-WRT on this device since it has to do everything in software, causing it to slowdown when there is a large amount of data being transferred. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201712 Looks like the only use for that USB port on the AEBS is hard drive and printer sharing. The easiest way to do that would probably be to bridge the USB connection over using Windows connection sharing or Linux, then either use a wireless adapter from the same machine as an AP or connect a dedicated AP over Ethernet for a bit more power. An old machine that you have lying around, a mini-desktop like a NUC, or maybe even a Raspberry Pi if you want to mess with Linux would work.
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Apr 10, 2016 05:20
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Antillie posted:I haven't used a Mikrotik myself but I get the impression that they are somewhere between Ubiquiti gear and that Cisco firewall you had a fight with in terms of ease of use. Having Ubiquiti APs and a Mikrotik router (RB751) at home and using Cisco gear at work, this sounds about right to me. The Mikrotik is full featured (like BGP/MPLS support, lots of wireless radio options that I don't understand, etc.) and has a command line interface like you would expect enterprise gear to, but also has a couple GUI options (Windows client and web-based at least) that are fairly well organized and easy to figure out. It has an out of the box configuration that should be suitable for basic home use, although I think the wireless is off by default since you have to set up your own security profile. Generally speaking, the Mikrotik has a hell of a lot of options you won't need but you shouldn't have too much trouble finding the ones you do if you are comfortable with something like DD-WRT or OpenWRT. It's not nearly as simple as the Ubiquiti stuff but they expose a lot fewer options to the user, at least in my experience with the APs.
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Apr 21, 2016 15:49
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Looks like this thing: https://www.shop.bt.com/products/bt-home-hub-5-068343-90RY.html Claims to have GbE ports and 300Mbps 2.4Ghz N + 1300Mbps 5GHz AC, which sounds pretty good but I'm not sure how it fares in the real world.
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Apr 25, 2016 17:26
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Rexxed posted:I replaced my original UniFi with the AC-Lite and it's been really solid. Yeah, I had a couple of the LR 2.4GHz N models and replaced one with an AC-Lite with great results so far. The old ones still work great in bridge/WDS mode for connecting things like my HTPC and printer. Another interesting recent project has been following Ars Technica's recent guide to building a home router/gateway using Linux and iptables. The author used an embedded Celeron mini-PC from AliExpress but I decided to try with my old i7-920 gaming desktop and a PCIe 2-port gigabit card. After getting iptables working by basically just following the guide, this allowed me to pop in some spare hard drives as well and get the same box handling NAS/torrent box functionality on top of routing. Unsurprisingly the processing power of an i7, even an old one, is massive overkill for this kind of thing. Even with my 70/7 connection maxed out across multiple downloads, the system only uses around 1% of one core and under 500MB of memory. This motivated me to check on eBay and find a slower Xeon L5520 (only $9!) with ECC support and a much lower TDP to replace the i7. The L5520 will run stable at stock speed with 0.9V vCore, which has HWMonitor reporting the full chip's power consumption at under 20W under load and around 2-3W idling. I'm a bit skeptical of such low numbers but I'm sure it makes a difference. At this point it's been stable for a couple weeks and the only thing left on the list is to set up IPv6 through a tunnel since my ISP is v4 only for now. I kind of wish there were more for it to do so all that power wasn't going to waste, but it's been a fun and productive project so I'd recommend anyone else who's curious and has a spare PC to check it out. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 19:40 on May 17, 2016 |
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May 17, 2016 19:37
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mAlfunkti0n posted:It will be tricky due to power levels from both the APs. Generally speaking, devices don't like letting go of something even when the signal is garbage (see Wifi assist on iPhones), companies have worked on this feature but I've not seen them used too widely in consumer based gear. The Unifi APs do this and are cheap enough and hide well .. If handoff is what you're concerned with I would look at those. From the previous page: Antillie posted:There are many good reasons to go with Unifi APs. Zero handoff is generally not one of them.
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May 17, 2016 20:19
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GobiasIndustries posted:I'm going to be picking up a managed 24 port switch soon and a few offerings have SFP ports on them. From what I've read, these are basically just for fiber connections if I needed to connect them to something father than CAT cables can run, right? Maybe. If it's SFP+ then it will run at 10Gbps, but if it's just regular SFP then all you get by running fiber (assuming the rest of the switch is gigabit) is that you can connect at longer distances than copper cable will reliably work at. Unless it specifically says "SFP+" or "10GBase-*" somewhere then it's probably the latter.
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May 22, 2016 01:45
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Yeah, that's easy to do. You just plug your incoming connection into one of the LAN ports instead of the WAN port and then you can use the other LAN ports for switching. Some devices have an option to use the WAN port in bridged mode with the rest which will give you +1 ports total, but if not just don't use it. Make sure that your N600 doesn't have a DHCP server running unless you want it to be the DHCP server (and in that case disable DHCP on whatever is doing the routing) and make sure that it's not trying to use the same IP as the router if you tend to use .1 or whatever. You can set it to get any other IP that's excluded from the DHCP-served range, or DHCP client if it supports that on the LAN interface - most consumer routers don't.
Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 16:00 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 15:57
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I bought one of these a little while back for streaming videos to an HTPC: http://amzn.com/B00U2SIS0O Never heard of the brand before and I'm sure there's better out there but for the price it seems pretty solid.
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Jun 3, 2016 03:36
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mcpringles posted:So I went to look for a switch with 10 plus ports and everything I'm seeing are $100-700. Is that right? The 8 port switch I bought was only $25. I don't really want a managed switch or a smart switch. More than 8 ports quickly starts to leave the realm of consumer gear, hence the price increase. Few people want to connect that many things but still don't care about managed features. The funny thing is that managed features don't really cost you much extra at that point either. You can get a used 24-port Cisco 2960G for $120-150, or a 48-port 3560G for a little bit more.
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Jun 22, 2016 16:26
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Undisclosed fee, what the hell? That sounds like it couldn't be legal, to have a stated warranty period but to force people to jump through hoops for which you charge them additional money to use it. Is this in the paperwork that came with the product or on some website of theirs?
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Jun 22, 2016 16:50
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mcpringles posted:I'm just looking for a basic unmanaged switch. Unless Imbgoing to need a managed one? The OP says if yoy dont know what it is you shouldn't nees it. Yeah, you can just use another switch or a switch port of a consumer router in any room where you need more than the one port. Just make sure that you don't connect more than one port in between two devices unless you get a managed switch with STP and/or link aggregation. A giant web is fine but more than one way to get from point A to point B will cause issues with dumb switches.
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Jun 23, 2016 01:19
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The Intel cards are recommended due to being really good, and since Intel doesn't make them in a desktop PCIe form factor the adapter is needed to use a mini-PCIe card. That TP-Link would probably do the job but is only 802.11n and not AC, so it won't have the same speed potential. You can however get an adapter card with an Intel chipset mini-PCIe already built in like this: https://amzn.com/B00HF8K0O6 This has the additional benefit of being a newer chipset than the other one linked. It looks like there may be some inconsistency with the product being delivered from this particular entry on Amazon though, since some reviews refer to Qualcomm drivers and other Intel chipsets. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Jun 26, 2016 |
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Jun 26, 2016 00:47
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You can always just plug in another unmanaged switch to your first one if you need to add capacity. You could potentially have a bottleneck if devices are talking back and forth to each other a lot, but with good planning it shouldn't be an issue at a small scale. Make sure not to create a loop though.
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Jul 1, 2016 16:53
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If you're not seeing any issues you're probably fine. The pins that are used to carry power for PoE aren't used for anything else in a typical Gigabit Ethernet connection, so in a device that doesn't have PoE in or out they are probably just floating leads not connected to anything. You'd have to use a lot more voltage than 24V to cause damage there. In a device that does support it they'd be crazy to make it so that it's damaged by using the wrong port.Antillie posted:Now if you had been using a standard 48v injector then things probably would have gotten smokey. Don't the standard injectors require signaling before they provide any power, unlike Ubiquiti's implementation?
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Jul 12, 2016 18:33
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There is a wireless bridging mode in which you can run an isolated Ubiquiti AP in reverse effectively to connect anything attached to its Ethernet port to a network on a second AP in conventional mode. I don't think that this works like a traditional "range extender" though, the bridge-mode AP doesn't serve any wireless requests itself. I guess you could connect a third AP to it to do that, but it sounds like a dirty hack that probably wouldn't work well if at all.
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Jul 22, 2016 19:49
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Zartans Lady Mask posted:Will a Ubiquiti UniFi AP allow me to join an existing wifi network, and provide connectivity via it's ethernet port? I don't need to extend the wireless network at all, i just need it to act as a bridge between the wireless AP on my router and a small wired network on the other side of my house. The second scenario of buying two UniFi APs and using one in bridge mode works like a charm. I did it with two of the pre-AC 2.4GHz N-only LR models, in a location where I had to get a connection a long distance off through two exterior walls and just using PC wireless adapters wasn't cutting it. It continued to work well when the normal-mode AP was replaced with one of the dual-band AC Lite models. I don't think it can be done unless you have a Ubiquiti AP on both sides because it's some proprietary bridging mode, but if you do the procedure is basically this: 1) Set up base station AP 'A' and remote AP 'R' on the same LAN configured with the same SSID, channel etc. 2) Disconnect 'R' and reboot it connected to the PC or switch that you need to wirelessly connect to 'A'. 3) Watch the UniFi web client until 'R' reappears in 'Isolated' state and you should be able to find an option to enable wireless bridging somewhere. Note that 'R' will solely serve as a bridge for whatever you connect to its Ethernet port in this state and will not be a wireless repeater.
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Aug 21, 2016 01:16
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Zartans Lady Mask posted:Awesome, thanks for the information! Correct. In this scenario the base-station AP is still in the same normal AP mode and will be usable by all clients, not just the remote AP.
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Aug 22, 2016 16:21
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bobfather posted:Fiddly maybe on initial configuration, but only slightly more so than dd-wrt running on a linksys wrtsl54gs, which is what's the current router. I've had great results for several months now using Ubuntu with iptables to do this, with the additional benefit that it can do fileserver, torrents, and any other light work that you might want a home server for. I used a $70 ASRock Celeron N3150 board with a 2x1G PCIe card to add a couple ports. I started out with an underclocked Nehalem Xeon but that was ridiculous overkill, never going over a few percent CPU utilization. Even with an 80+ Platinum supply, I couldn't get it below 70W or so. The Celeron board is passively cooled so there's just one big 200mm fan spinning at minimum RPM and the whole rig with two HDDs and an SSD uses around 20W max. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Oct 2, 2016 |
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Oct 2, 2016 00:08
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